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A while ago I moved from a big city to a small town and I needed something cost efficient and possibly fun way to get around.
It's a Taiwanese CPI sm 50, so the quality of the plastic is not the best and the previous owner had already painted it once.
As I put it away for the first night I made the mistake of running the chain lock over the back plastic panel and the chain's weight made an already present crack on it far worse. There were other flaws already on it as the previous owner seemingly fell with it on it's left side but they covered it up decently. This gave me the final push to do a makeover, I bought quality matte black and matte white acrillyc spraypaint. I plan to remove all the plastic elements this afternoon and sandpaper them doing a patient and even work.
As I was doing a photoshop concept how would it look I fucked up the white balance, so it got a beige tint. As I showed it to my friends they agreed that it would look better in beige than white. After work I'm gonna go to the shop and buy a beige spray as well. As this is a low budget project I plan to buy strong plastic adhesive for the cracked back panel, fill it then do the sandpaper / paint over it instead of hunting for a new piece, it will be as it will be at the end.
Please share your advice and tips, this is my first /diy/ project, I will update the thread as I go in the following 1-2 days.
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>>1187567
Painted plastic looks nice for about 2 days.
I would buy a new set of plastics, they're not that expensive and they're easy to replace.
If your'e dead set on cheaping out, use an old soldering iron to plastic-weld the crack back together. Epoxy doesn't hold for long.
If you want something more customized, do a vinyl wrap, >pic related. It'll hold up a lot longer, and as an added bonus it does add some strength to cracks. If you lay it down and fuck up the wrap, the pieces you fucked up can be reprinted.
Even contact paper, laid on and gone over with a heat gun to work out the bubbles and get the adhesive to stick, would look better for longer than paint will.
t. ride and race snowmobile and moto/dualsport.
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Painting plastic is 99% prep work 1% painting.
Sand with 600g to rough it up
Coat with primer
Sand with 1000g, making the surface smooth, paint won't hide blemishes.
Light coat of paint
Light coat of paint
Light coat of paint
Buff the paint if you need, probably not necessary if you did good
A few layers of clear to make it last forever.
To be honest, spend a decent amount on clear coat, and not too much on paint. Nothing worse than yellowing or soft clear coat.
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>>1187570
Yeah, I kinda want to do it the cheap way, but it does not mean I want to rush it or be careless, I had something like >>1187571 said in mind.
Here is the back which is in the worst condition.
Anonymous
House buying: push for it or give up? 2017-06-03 01:32:14 Post No.1187437
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House buying: push for it or give up? 2017-06-03 01:32:14 Post No.1187437
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House buying: push for it or give up?
Anonymous
2017-06-03 01:32:14
Post No. 1187437
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My roommate and I have been looking for a house for about a month now, but the problem is the market is dryer than the Sahara right now, especially for our price range and needs.
We found a place and were ready to jump on it. We stopped by today with his dad- who is retired from the construction business- and he convinced my roomie not to go through with buying it.
Starting price is 150k in a neighborhood that averages over 200k for the same size.
>1800sqft, 7800sqft lot w/ gardens
>4 bed, 2 full bath split level w/ attic and basement
>working a/c, radiant heat, working fireplace (needs cleaning)
>ground level concrete porch w/ awning
>"as is" with furniture in most rooms- could probably sell what we don't need
>2 basic fridge+freezer and a basic washer+dryer, though we'd like to update to modern appliances.
The problems my roomie's dad pointed out:
>electrical needs to be brought up to code, only one grounded outlet
>Roof has maybe 2-3 more years until it needs replacing
>Grille on the condenser was completely rusted, and the unit might need replacing
>Trees need to be trimmed back
>Oven and dishwasher don't work at all (I don't even give a shit about the dishwasher)
>Interior is fine, but outdated (grandma wallpaper and built in 1961)
(cont. 1/2)
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>>1187437
(2/2)
They're afraid they're going to waste 400 on the inspection only to find out there's tons more that needs to be done. His dad and agent are both convinced all the work to be done will end up running another 40-60k. I come from an "everything's DIY until you can't" family and feel like most of the work can be done by us or though my family connections and we can cut that cost immensely, but he's afraid of the risk. Currently the 2 other places on the market at tens of thousands more, but smaller.
So, should I try and convince him to still get the inspection, then do as much DIY as possible and use connections for bigger stuff like roof installation, HVAC, and electrical? Or should I just side with everyone saying to give up even though we're probably not going to find another place at this size for a while?
>pic related is not it, but similar
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>>1187437
150k house that needs 40k worth of work in a 200k location, sounds a whole fuckload better to me than a tiny 145k walk-in in a 120k neighborhood. Both sound like you (relative) young & flexible, dont mind a bit of strain or stress, Pops there is retired, got fuking nothing better to do anyway - really not seeing the problem here desu, inspections always a cost factor, only worth it if the rest is gonna work.
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I wouldn't buy a house with someone unless I'm married to them.
As far as the house itself you need to think about your income past the house payment itself. Your roof alone can be five digits easily if they get into the deckboards.
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Hey /diy/ I've recently come to aquire many older tvs, not too old maybe late 90s early 2000s, anyway I want to see if I can hook it all up to my singular cable box, and have them all display same sound and image, pic related is the type of cable, I think it's called composite. Would it work? Am I autistic? Just lookin for a hand guys thanks.
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Think I should try /g/ next, they seem to know electronics but a hand would be great
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smells of troll. nobody is this retarded.
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>>1187123
Do a search for "composite cable spltter".
You could also use coaxial cable splitters, if your cable box has a coaxial output. Might be slightly less quality, but probably cheaper and easier to split, especially if you really have "many" TVs. You can still go to just about any electronics or hardware store and get coax splitters, and you can chain them endlessly (albeit with increasing signal loss) if you really need that many TVs.
Anonymous
Glow in the Dark Paint 2017-05-31 04:01:38 Post No.1185968
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Hi /diy/ I was just wondering what is a good brand of blow in the dark paint to use on wallpaper? I'm currently trying to create a stencil and was wondering what to look out for with paint. Is natural light required as well? Or can a light bulb work on the paint?
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>>1185968
Krylon like 7 bucks a can at walmart lowes hobby lobby etc.
Bright light on it for a bit. Can be a fuckboy flashlight if needed. Just wand over it some and kill the lights.
Have fun
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>>1186004
Thank you!
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>>1185968
OP again I tried that Krylon spray paint but I found it's too light blue boarding on green. Is there a way to darken it to a more dark blue?
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I've got a project that involves cutting lots of 1" dia holes in 1.5" thick sheets of Styrofoam. The little particles get everywhere. Here are the things I've tried:
Making a punchout tool out of some copper pipe I had laying around. Works OK but the holes are ragged and foam crumbs get everywhere. Making a hot knife out of a wood burning tool I got at goodwill and some stripped solid core electrical wire. Works OK but it's slow as hell. Making a melting tool using a small section of the pipe heated with a torch. Works great but the heat is hard to control and leads to overheating which makes the holes too big. Hot knife v2 using a circular bit I made out of the pipe (pic related) and attached to the wood burner. Slow even when I drive the wood burner with a Variac at 140V but works best out of everything. I tinned the connection with solder to help heat transfer.
Any other ideas? Wood burner is 23W, I know a bigger heater would help. Would it help or hurt to cut more material off the tool I have now?
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A wood burning iron is essentially a crippled soldering iron. Try the same thing but with the cheapest soldering iron you can find ~~at your local Radioshack~~ on Amazon
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>>1184818
I'd use a hand drill. Take your existing cutter or make a new one, sharpen the cutting end, and run a bolt and nut through the mount to give the drill a shank to grab on.
Giving it a knife edge should cut the foam like butter.
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>>1184818
hmm. Well the obvious thing to try next would be to use a file and sharpen the cutting edge of your v2 hot knife.
It's slow because you are trying to melt through the styrofoam, but you really want to CUT through and heat seal the edges of the cut.
ye 70s guy
/ohm/ - electronics general: The best of times edition 2017-05-26 10:13:36 Post No.1183261
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/ohm/ - electronics general: The best of times edition 2017-05-26 10:13:36 Post No.1183261
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/ohm/ - electronics general: The best of times edition
ye 70s guy
2017-05-26 10:13:36
Post No. 1183261
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last >>1177293 →
Thread music: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtc-WDrJncA [Embed]
pastebin.com/9UgLjyND
>I'm new to electronics, where to get started?
There are several good books and YouTube channels that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more, many with advanced techniques. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty.
>What books are there?
Beginner:
Getting Started in Electronics Forrest Mims III
Make: Electronics Charles Platt
How to Diagnose Fix Everything Electronic Michael Jay Greier
Intermediate:
All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide: Kybett, Boysen
Practical Electronics for Inventors: Paul Scherz and Simon Monk
Advanced:
The Art of Electronics by Paul Horowitz
>What YouTube channels are there?
https://www.youtube.com/user/mjlorton
https://www.youtube.com/user/paceworldwide
https://www.youtube.com/user/eevblog
https://www.youtube.com/user/EcProjects
https://www.youtube.com/user/greatscottlab
https://www.youtube.com/user/AfroTechMods
https://www.youtube.com/user/Photonvids
https://www.youtube.com/user/sdgelectronics
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheSignalPathBlog
>What websites feature electronics projects or ideas?
http://adafruit.com
http://instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-technology/
http://makezine.com/category/electronics/
>Where do I get components and lab equipment from?
digikey.com
jameco.com
sparkfun.com
ramseyelectronics.com
allelectronics.com
futurlec.com
ladyada.net/library/procure/hobbyist.html
mouser.com
alliedelec.com
newark.com
ebay.com
>What circuit sim software do you use?
This mostly comes down to personal preference. These are the most common ones though:
NI Multisim
LTSpice
CircuitLab
iCircuit for Macs
>What software should I use to layout boards?
Circuit Wizard
ExpressPCB
EAGLE
KiCad
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Hey, I have a question about the Cockcroft-Walton multiplier. I understand it fully how it works with an AC input, but apparently it also works with pulsing DC voltage, at least Wikipedia says that. So what I want to ask is, would it really work, and if it would, how is that even possible? Does the circuit need alterations, from say, pic related? Or is the circuit actually clamping down the voltage to -1/2Vin because capacitive coupling?
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>>1183379
The very first capacitor removes any DC offset in any case. It does not matter whether your input waveform's peak values are, say, +100V/-100V or +200V/0V.
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>>1183379
You can test it in Spice. The actual reference voltage doesn't matter since you set one side of the sinusoid to be ground. The higher the frequency the more efficient the circuit, but be sure you don't enter a frequency too fast for your diodes to work. I wouldn't try to draw any more current than a 1kΩ across a 4-stage multiplier running off 1MHz 50V, if that's a useful ballpark.
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Hey /diy/, I've recently started making knifes. On my good old coal forge I was able to get the steel at very bright white colour, but on this new "soup can forge" it is barelly warming the metal (even if i let it running for 10 minutes). I am using MAP Pro gas torch as a heat source but the flames doesn't seem to get hot enough. Is it because the gas is too shitty or do I need to open the back of the can so more oxigen get in? I've tried putting the torch in many positions but the flame still looks shitty.
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>>1183028
Picture of the gas tank
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>>1183039
The ""insulating"" material is plaster and sand. As of the gas, according to Wikipedia it is "a fuel gas based on a stabilized mixture of methylacetylene (propyne) and propadiene"
Anonymous
Alternatives to Showers? 2017-05-08 12:21:58 Post No.1173788
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Alternatives to Showers? 2017-05-08 12:21:58 Post No.1173788
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I'm trying to devise a way to maintain a good personal hygiene without relying on conventional showers. Is there really no effective means to stay clean without dumping a fuckton of hot water all over you for 10 minutes everyday?
Do you have any ideas?
Conditions:
>Has to use a small amount of water (Preferably something like 5-10 litres or less)
>Environmentally friendly (So things like rubbing yourself all the time with a ton of baby wipes is out)
>Not too costly
Let's say this is meant for someone with a buzzcut and no body or pubic hair. Is it doable?
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Make a system to filter and reuse the water after a shower.
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>>1173789
Or just store it and use it for toilet flushing, garden watering, etc. Water consumption would go down the same amount as not using a shower if you have enough use for the wastewater.
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>>1188471
Bumping for interest
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Don't understand the thread topic but just to let you know you can use the GPIO pins for your controls.
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That's often called an "arcade stick" or "fight stick". The term "joystick" should be reserved for the variable/analog things you'd fly a plane with. An arcade stick, having only on/off in each direction, wouldn't work in any flight simulator approaching realism.
>>1188518
Find stick you like for which drivers exist for whatever general purpose computer you're connecting it to? Check out /vg/ and the various fighting game reddits to see what's good?
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Hey diy, I know it's not up to code and stuff, but if it's possible I'd like to frame in this window with the glass block. The edges line up and I think it would look cool. Was thinking of just getting it tight and spray foaming it, but would like to make it as secure as possible. Maybe mortar? What do you think? If it's too much I'm just gonna frame it with wood, but I think the light would be cool
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I'm sure they're ancient but there's a few houses in my city from the 30s and 40s that have that setup. I'd suggest looking at stuff from that time period, maybe.
Also you don't really need to bump, /diy/ is only slightly faster than /an/.
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>>1188121
just get mortar, its super cheap. watch a youtube video about how to do it. glass block should have "modified" mortar, its more gluey and can flex a tiny bit.
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I live in st louis. Glass block everywhere.
Thete is a special morter that you need to use.
I didn't really know where to ask this, but I figured here's the best place.
So, I need opinions. Would you say using Christmas lights to decorate my bedroom like in pic related, or across my ceiling is a girly idea? Can this be done in a masculine way? I have my bedroom set up in a way that kind of gives off a rustic, outdoor, foresty lounge place vibe. I have more masculine furniture and I kinda like the light idea, but I noticed all the pictures on Google are chick's rooms.
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By the way, the pic is not my room. I don't have any slanted walls like that.
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It's pretty fruity OP, but you do you.
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Who caress about masculinity? If you want to do it, then do it and fuck everybody else.
Anonymous
Help me understand LC Lowpass filter theory bls 2017-06-04 07:40:30 Post No.1187966
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Help me understand LC Lowpass filter theory bls 2017-06-04 07:40:30 Post No.1187966
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Help me understand LC Lowpass filter theory bls
Anonymous
2017-06-04 07:40:30
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The included circuit is for the power stage of a 13.56 Mhz RF generator that's supposed to give out a nice 13.56 sinewave free of harmonics at high power to power a Metcal soldering iron.
Circled in blue is the filter which is supposed to filter out the output from the MOSFET, my question is: where do the values for the inductors and capacitors come from? What's the theory behind them? What are the equations behind them? I tried looking at online calculators for "Pi" LC lowpass filters with multiple "nodes" (multiple series of connected inductors and capacitors like in the circuit) but I couldn't reproduce the values shown in the schematic. Those values were copy-pasted into the schematic from the (leaked?) Metcal MX-500 schematic, which you can find using a simple Google.
My other question is, why is the center-tapped transformer that's connected to the drain of the FET necessary?
PS: Any one here have experience with Pace's gold-ended WJS 100 "1128-Series" tips and PACE in general? Is their newest highest end shit comparable to Metcal or JBC?
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>>1187966
1. Those kinds of filters are very rarely calculated the way you seem to assume. The normal way is to either use a filter design program or scale pre-calculated prototype filters suitably. Pre-calculation is practical, because those filters are chosen from a (small) bunch of well-known topologies, like Butterworth or Chebyshev.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chebyshev_filter
2. It is there to match the fet's output impedance to the filter (and load).
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The center-tap is a way to flip the polarity of that stage's output.
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>>1187986
>1. Those kinds of filters are very rarely calculated the way you seem to assume. The normal way is to either use a filter design program or scale pre-calculated prototype filters suitably. Pre-calculation is practical, because those filters are chosen from a (small) bunch of well-known topologies, like Butterworth or Chebyshev.
FOUT which comes out between L4 and L5 is fed into a peak detector which is buffered by an op amp and fed to the adjustable buck converter, the output of the filter is connected to the Metcal soldering iron, during heat-up it absorbs all of the RF power, but once it reaches the curie temperature set by the tip it begins reflecting the RF back, which, according to the document, leads to an increase in voltage between L4 and L5, when this happens the buck converter decreases the voltage to keep the voltage between L4 and L5 relatively constant (when energy is reflected, voltage increases, buck converter decreases input voltage, voltage decreases, and thus is kept constant)
Observing the component values I can see that the capacitors on each side of L5 are equal and that L5 is 400n instead of 1u like the rest of the inductors, and since the tap comes out from it, this leads me to believe that it's special, but I don't understand the basis or theory behind why it is this way
No filter design program gave me 400nH for the last indcutor.
>It is there to match the fet's output impedance to the filter (and load).
How is it calculated?
>>1188004
for what purpose
Sorry for not including them from the start, but this is the full schematic: https://my.mixtape.moe/gzogbm.pdf
and this is its description
https://my.mixtape.moe/pecbeq.pdf
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hey /diy/
I'm restoring an old computer case that has rust on it. The initial plan was to sand, apply primer and then paint. After sanding some of the old paint, however, the metal turned out to be really beautiful. Now I'd like to keep that clear metal look, but I'm confused as how to proceed, as I couldn't find any transparent primers to apply a opaque lacquer on.
I've tried searching but found conflicting suggestions for the matter. Some recommended boiled linseed oil, others recommended car wax. I live in a high humidity environment, so coating is somewhat important. I was thinking about applying the lacquer straight after sanding them.
How should I proceed?
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>>1187950
wd40
>>
restoring a computer case seems like the worst idea.
sand blast
hand sand
electrolysis
wd 40
if you want to coat it powder coating is what will give you the best finish
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I want to fix a computer chair floor protector in place, to prevent it from moving all the time.
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Weld it with an Oxy-Acetylene welder
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gaffer tape.
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Nail 'er down
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Im trying to put this seat on my canoe. The straps are about 4-6 inches to short to strap in. Anyone have any ides how I could make it work?
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