Has anyone tried the new Yaya Han gloves/socks/boot cover pattern

I hope it is, because I'm pathetic when it comes to drafting glove patterns. I can't do it to save my god damn life, it's like I have a mental block. Ball gown? Sure! Fine! Tracing my hand to make a glove? Awful.

>>9015170
Wanna trade? I can do gloves just fine but anything else, especially sleeves, and it's a damn disaster.

>>9015181
Sleeves are really easy, just tedious. Get out a ruler or string to measure the armscye (both the sleeve and armhole on the bodice).

>>9015184
>>9015181
Also when you sew them in, sew them into the shoulder before you sew up the side seam, so it lays flat when you're sewing it, the whole thing would be a + shape when sewn together. Sew sleeve seam and side seam up in one go.

>>9015264
Fucking brilliant. You're a god, anon.

This is great

>>9015145
It's okay. I made them and they work fine if you use either her overpriced fabrics or a spandex. But any thing without a good amount of stretch it won't quite work well. But it's easier to just lay your hand down and trace then buying the pattern. Save your money to buy better fabrics. Boot covers look like they would work well but again, easier to just trace around your boot and make it. There's better tutorials online to do these that have better results.

>>9015264
You just made my butthole twinge. Part of the reason you sew them in after you sew the side seams is for ease and shape especially if its a set in sleeve it's incredibly important to have that ease done correctly otherwise it looks like shit. Hell, when you properly tailor a sleeve you shape the sleeve and cap with steam and then sew it in. The only sleeve type it would be OK to do it that way is a raglan sleeve.

>>9015395
Or a kimono type thing. But yeah for fancy blouses or more tailored jackets you need that ease

>>9015400
>>9015395
But you do ease them, to some extent. You certainly don't just sew it in and chop the extra fabric off the sides. Either way, a buttload of pins are necessary for both methods.

>>9015395
This is cosplay, not haute couture. If people find it works for them to sew the sleeves in before the side seams, especially while they're still learning, let them. Better to have a slightly off side seam than to give up in frustration all together.

>>9015395
>>9015400
P>>9015409
>>9015410

You all are yelling about sewing sleeves before or after you do your side seams and I'm just sitting here still trying to figure out how the hell to even make/draft out a sleeve pattern.

>>9015431
Start by using a commercial pattern to learn the basic shape and process, then try drawing your own with the appropriate tools (clear quilting ruler, French curve, etc. may help). Puff sleeves are generally easier because you can fudge the measurements by a lot and simply gather the sleeve to the needed length to match the armhole on the bodice.

>>9015410
It's basic construction not some mystical knowledge passed down generations. Sleeve patterns are drafted with ease for a reason and that's to accommodate the movement of the shoulder so if you sew a sleeve ignoring the ease you will have strain and won't be able to move your arm fully. If you are ok with that fine, but I'm not murdering your family by saying that sewing the side seams last is wrong.

Has anyone made her bunnysuit yet?

>>9015431

Google "create a custom sleeve pattern" first link should be to threads magazine and it will teach you how to draft your own sleeve. I learned with that tutorial. Sleeves have been a problem of the past ever sense.

>>9015395
>>9015553
http://fashion-incubator.com/sleeve_cap_ease_is_bogus/

>>9015431
Use a pattern. I've been sewing for well over a decade and I still use pattern bases for most projects. There is no reason to reinvent the wheel.

>>9015575
Yes. It was very easy to make, very easy to alter and looks good. If you can draft your own, I'd do that, because unless you're a really generic shape, you have to alter it, which sucks and is time consuming.

But yeah. All of her patterns are pretty good so far. You just have to really read her seam allowances because sometimes it's like LOL ONE INCH.

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>>9015431
the concept of sleeves is a little hard to wrap your head around to begin with (I had a lot of trouble with it at first) but once you've gotten the hang of it you can churn them out without really thinking about it. This picture really helped me when I did my first puff sleeves!

>>9015395
Why are you getting annoyed with them? You're only supposed to do set in sleeves for menswear and jackets? You're suppose to sew the sleeve in before the side seam for pretty much everything else.
This is cosplay though, people can do it whatever way they like.

>>9015719
This was a super interesting read...!

>>9015745
I don't like pre made patterns half the time. Half the time the majority of the pattern is useless and I just like the sleeve they offer. Why should I have to spend money on a pre made pattern and fight with the tissue paper crap when I can draft my own out of thicker paper I can reuse multiple times. I have basic puff sleve made for my own shoulder and regular straight cuffed sleeve made for my arm length made from heavy cardboard for easy use in multiple patterns. I should have to buy a pattern when I could save the money and make my own. although it's sometimes just one dollar on the pattern. but a dollar saved is a dollar more I can spend on fabric.

Tl:dr some people want the knowledge to make their own to their custom measurments.

>>9015719
This was really cool, anon. Does the author of this post have an entry on how exactly they got the new sleeve shape? She briefly went over it in that article but didn't seem to elaborate much.

>>9015395
>you just made my butthole twinge

take the stick out of your ass then

>>9015395
Oringinal sleeve anon here
No no.
You'll have notches on your pattern of where the ease is, before you sew it in you gather that up to the size it would need to be.
Then you pin from the outside edge in, and if there is any excess ease, distribute in the ease area while pinning, then sew it down.

Set in sleeves are for formalwear only desu.
There is no notable difference in the outcome when doing this on most things.

Doing it this way makes it much easier to construct a lining and shell, then sew them together. It is also much quicker and easier to learn.

This is the process used in manufacture and on what you are wearing right now princess.

You going to teach factory workers how to do a set in sleeve or this method?

It works for industry and it works for cosplay.

>>9015750
I made something using her coat pattern, and you should read the finished measurements.The amount of wearing ease is more than most people need, so you might have to size down, unless you like the two-sizes too big look. Though this is more of an issue with Mccall's patterns than anything else.

>>9015811
>http://fashion-incubator.com/how-to-remove-sleeve-cap-ease/

BAM

>>9015958
whoops.
BAM
https://stitchywitch.wordpress.com/2012/10/15/tutorial-removing-sleevecap-ease/

>>9015750
It's an issue with all commercial patterns. The general rule if you know you won't need to heavily moderate the pattern, is to cut it 2 sizes smaller than what the pattern says your actual measurements are. Saves tons of fitting time.

>>9015777
Then you need to pay way more than the $1 a pattern would cost you to take pattern drafting courses.

>>9015181
Care to share your secrets? I'm supposed to sew a pair of gloves for a cosplay and so far have only managed to fuck up.

>>9016075
Not anon but all I know is that hand sewing the finger parts by hand will usually get better results.

>>9016079
I see, I've been doing most of the work on a machine so maybe I'll give hand sewing a shot then. Thanks!

>>9015395
I really hate it when people want everything done in cosplay clothes by the holy bible of tailors like cosplay was a fucking professional artisan hobby.

>otherwise it looks like shit
I'm pretty sure like 99% will never notice this and most likely you yourself wouldn't even see it if nobody told you.

>>9016182
It's a fashion vs costumes thing. People who learn construction for fashion generally don't understand why costumes use what could be considered "shortcuts"

>>9016193
Or they're taught high fashion and fast fashion methods. The shortcut is used in fast fashion as it's cheaper and quicker.

I just tried to make the gloves using the four-way stretch vinyl and the small is absolutely tiny. I tend to wear a small in gloves but I can't even get these on my hands. It also have a different pattern piece front and back with no large difference between them.

>>9016071
No you don't need to when you can learn it on your own and learn from tutorials. There's a ton on the internet that are free and teach you. I learned how to drape, make a bodice, draft sleeves all off the internet. I but patterns often but I also will take it and modify it then make my own pattern based off that pattern so I don't have to go and buy a new one every time I want it. I have learned quite a lot about pattern drafting just by sewing and other people being helpful on the Internet. I also have a educated seamstress sister who says that what I'm doing is exactly what was taught in her class

So no you don't HAVE to go to drafting class.

>>9015145
Bought this on sale. Was like - why not, less time wasted on drafting these.
The gloves are on the small side - make you follow the seam allowance when sewing! It changes for the fingers.
Boots covers are all nice. I personally suck at making my own boot cover patterns so for like 7$ - this pattern is totally worth it.

>>9015395
Y'all realize there are patterns out there that do exactly what anon is talking about right???

>>9015839
Let me check all of the armscyes on my fucking t-shirts...hhmm, nope, that's fucking BS. Literally everything I own, the size seam was sewn first, then the armscye.
For real, I don't give a damn. Both are find, although I believe you can get a better fit by setting a sleeve in tradition, but don't act like you know everything, princess.

>>9023165
Why so rude anon?
Not who you are replying to but I am a professional seamstress. Unless you are sewing mens shirts or formalwear for both genders, the sleeve is to be sewn in first and then the side seam. That's the industry way to do it.
You NEVER should insert a tshirt sleeve the set-in way. The whole point of doing the sleeve after the side seam (set-in) is for extra movement with more fitted or tailored garments. Everything is done for a reason, anything that isnt formal wear does not need that movement therefore it is not sewn that way.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but you're kind of being a stubborn dick without doing your research. Have a good day.

>>9015839
Hey, >>9023207 here. Regardless of what that other anon says, I just want to say thanks! I know that with cosplay, industry sewing/standards aren't something you need to know because it's just a hobby, but it is great to know that there are people like yourself who have done research and can inform where needed. Makes my job a little easier.

>>9015431
Probably gonna catch shit for it, but honestly, go to Walmart and find those super cheap beginner patterns with a long sleeve shirt and just start practicing from that pattern. Even from cheap $3 patterns you learn a lot, and using patterns first will help a hell of a lot when you go to draft patterns
Cuz boy I tell you hwhat, drafting patterns can be royal pain in the ass.

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>reading all the sleeve posts
>still a beginner
>haven't sewn sleeves yet

>>9020444
The real question is how many actually follows the directions on patterns.

>>9023165
I get it, you're just bitter because you realize you've wasted hours sewing sleeves in the more difficult way when you could have done it quickly.

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OKAY JERKS I AM DOING THIS BECUSE MY LAST GLOVE PATTERN IS SO GODDAMN OLD THE FILE FORMAT IS NO VALID ON COSPLAY.COM

PUT YOU DOWN SOME CARDBOARD OR WHATEVER AND DRAW A LINE ON IT. MOOSH YOUR HAND UP ON THAT LINE.

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TRACE YOUR BIG DUMB HAND MINUS THUMB, FLIP, AND TRACE AGAIN.

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HOW WIDE IS YOUR HAND? NOT VERY. I AM A GOLEM OF STICKS AND LEATHER. MEASURE YOUR WRIST TOO.

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MAKE THE SIDES LOOK LIKE A BIG MEATY PUPPET HAND. DREADFUL.

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NOW MAKE LINES TO MARK WHERE YOUR THUMB CONNECTS. TOP AND BOTTOM.MARK YOUR THIMB TOO. I WILL BE IN THE OFFICE TOMORROW WITH MY HAND COVERED IN MAGIC MARKER LIKE A TODDLER.

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GET A THING LIKE THE FIRST THIBG YOU PICK UP LIKE THE LACE STILL CONNECTED TO A SHOE AND MEASURE AROUND YOUR THUMB. MARK THE THING.

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PUT THE THING IN THE PLACE AND TRACE THE INSIDE.

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PUT YOUR DIRTY MARKER STREAKED HAND DOWN AND MARK ON THE CARDBOARD WHERE THE TOP AND BOTTOM PARTS OF YOUR THUMB CONNECTION TO YOUR HAND IS.

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MARK HOW LONG YOUR LONG ASS THUMB IS TO THE TOP.

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THERE'S THAT THING AGAIN. REMEMBER THAT THING? TRACE THE OUTSIDE NOW BECAUSE SEAM ALLOWANCES AND SHIT.

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DRAW A LINE TO THE TOP AND LOOK WHAT AN UGLY SHAPE YOUR THUMB IS.

>>9016392
There are a lot of really shitty tutorials on the internet, and the blind don't know enough to know they're being led by the blind. The good tutorials are also often for things like basic bodice blocks, which is a very different than a jacket or well drafted armscye and sleeve. You can learn entirely from books -- I largely did for years before I got a job in a sewing shop -- but it's going to take you way more time and effort than just using a pattern for cosplay.

YOU HAVE A PATTERN! HORRAY! HAND SEW WITH A STRAIGHT STITCH BECAUSE MACHINES WILL DISSAPOINT YOU TIME AND AGAIN. THE LITTLE SHIT TO THE SIDE IS NOT WORTH DRAFTING, IT IS ONLY TO SHOW THE APPROXIMATE SHAPE OF THE SHITTY GUSSET PEICE. I USE SCRAPS OF FABRIC, SEW ONE SIDE ALL THE WAY DOWN, THEN WHILE WEARING THE GLOVE INSIDE OUT, I JUST WIGGLE IT IN PLACE, PIN, REMOVE TO SEW, AND TRIM OFF EXTRA.

1) FOLD THUMB IN HALF AND SEW TOP OF THUMB TOGETHER.

2) SEW BOTTOM OF THUMB ALL INTO THUMB HOLE.

3) SEW TOGETHER OUTSIDE EDGE OF GLOVES. CURSE INWARDLY IF THEY ARE TOO TIGHT OR LOOSE.

4) SEW JUST FINGERTIPS TOGETHER.

5) CUT GUSSETS OUT OF THE SCRAP FABRIC YOU PLAY WITH YOUR CATS WITH AND DO THE THHING I SAID TO DO ABOVE.

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I FORGOT THE FINAL IMAGE BECAUSE I AM VERY D ABD MY BRAIN HAS TURNED INTO SAND.

>>9015145
Man Yaya is getting kinda tubby

>>9023935
I feel like you and I must be looking at drastically different people if you identify that as tubby.

>>9023935
Nice b8 m8

>>9023911
everything you typed was really cringey
like all those fags on tumblr who think theyre funny

>>9024132
THANK YOU FRIEND

>>9023935
please go back to lolcow

>>9023390
This is so hilariously true, I love it.

>>9023915
Thank-you!!!!!!

>>9023915
Please fuck off.

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OR ONE MORE. HERE'S THE FINAL PATTERN AFTER I TRACED IT ON TO PATTERN TRANFER MATERIAL (STOCKED WITH INTERFACING AND GREAT) AND A GLOVE I DID THIS EVENING. ALSO PICTURED IS MCCALLS 7397 ASKED ABOUT BY THE OP. IT IS ESSENTIALLY A HAND TURKEY PATTERN AND I WOULDN'T CONSIDER IT TO BE WORTH MONEY TO ANYONE OVER A BARE NOVICE LEVEL. IT'S HARD TO BE LET DOWN BY SOMETHING YOU PAID $1.67 FOR BUT HERE WE ARE.

>>9027873
proud of u

>>9027873
You have lovely hands! Or maybe I just have incredibly stumpy wrinkly granny hands....

But anyway, thank you for your relevant contribution :D this noob sewer really apreciates it.

>>9023207
I guess different schools teach different stuff then. I'm an educated seamstress though I don't work as one ATM, and all of my teachers said that the only time you should ever sew the side seam last was if you were using stretch fabrics. When you use woven fabrics the side seam is to be sewn first because of ease and fitting. Then again my school was very tailor marketed even if they teach retail sewing as well

I don't personally care which way other people to it, but I always insert my sleeve lastly because that's what I've always done

>>9028150
Eeey I'm happy to help. I will say that my first attempt at gloves made for a terrible homunculus thing, but they got to looking better and better as I kept on.
IF your first try goes horribly, don't be discouraged, they're a finnicky garment and can take a few tries to get into the swing of them.

>>9023207
Also a professional costume technician here. Who would have thunk there would be different ways of doing things? Golly. Seriously, I was just talking about RTW garments which is what I thought you were referring to in your post, and who the fuck knows/cares what machines do.

>>9023390
Bruh, I've sewn them both ways, it just depend on what your making. And if it takes you hours to set in sleeves, you're doing it wrong.

>>9028192
This is what I was taught, and what all the cutter/drapers I work with do as well. Seriously, idgaf, but blindly doing one over the (either way of putting in the sleeve) is stupid.

>>9028192
This is also how I was taught by a professional, and looking at higher end clothes, they are still made that way. I also find it easier to get the underarm seams perfectly aligned when set in rather than set flat. Setting a sleeve is fast and it looks better than doing the side seam last. The only thing I do that way is stretch fabrics.

>>9027873
>dat clown hand pattern

oh. my. GOD. I thought that was somehow a joke, that yaya balloon hand pattern. It's completely laughable. I CAN'T BELIEVE IT'S REAL BUT THERE IS THE PROOF. What a Joke with a capital J

>>9033882
>>9027873
Also are you Gren the oldskool cosplayer who did the Adam Warren Empowered cosplay, (but many more better known ones) in which case, hello old friend and no one google this

>>9027873
I would still pay the almost $2.

>>9027873
No fucking gussets? Then what the fuck are you paying for? A fucking 4-year old could make that pattern.

Now that being said Vogue has some nice glove patterns if you really need one. But Vogue's patterns are pricey, even when their on sale.

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>>9033891
HAH yes, that is me. He actually ended up basing a drawing of Ninjette on one of my photos of that costume which made me feel very legitimate. Hello old friend I am very old.

>>9034857
I own two of the vogue ones, but I have to adjust so much to get the fit right on me, it was easier to learn to draft. I do appreciate that they put a dart in the gusset so you get a better fit between fingers without wrinkling, but I usually can't be bothered and just abuse the spandex to fit.

I could see the hand turkey pattern working for the fingers of you're just using it for Cosplay "if I wear this outfit more than 4 times I will feel like I've done a bad job at my hobby" purposes, but having the fabric at the back of your hand stretch every time you move your thumb to pick up a cup of water seems Like a terrible way to live one's life.

>>9015264
The day someone taught me to sew sleeves this way my life changed. It is so much easier, I used to desperately avoid sewing anything with sleeves but now they're a breeze.

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>>9036769
Holy shit Gren, I remember you from Gaia's cosplay subforum in 2004. You helped me when I was a wee baby cosplayer and now I've been cosplaying for 12 years. Bless.

>>9023165
Girl the ninja turtles tshirt I'm wearing right now had the side seam sewn last.

>>9036938
Oh my stars and garters that was a long time ago. I'm glad I was able to help you as a wee baby thing! I still carry a soft place inside me for the cosplayers who helped me wrap my head around things when I was first starting out; it warms my ancient dust filled heart to know I was able to help someone else get their footing.

>>9015264
This is brilliant!! Why couldn't I think of this? Thank you anon!!

Which is the superior bunnysuit pattern? Figured this thread would be ideal to ask
1. Mccalls Yaya pattern
2. Simplicity Effy Sews pattern
3. "Updated" Rufflebutt pattern
4. Other?

>>9042432
gonna be buying yayas pattern soon but rufflebutts pattern is for sure a waste of money imo. Had so many issues with it and had to heavily alter it to get it to fit properly.

>>9042432
I'd wager Yaya's. I picked up her unitard pattern and was pretty pleased with how well thought out and put together it was, particularly with a curvy focus rather than the old kwick-sew mainstays.

That goes double if you're busty, as her patterns really seem to keep a focus on not making your tits look a mess.

>>9023915
Thank you for this.
I miss these old school style casual but clear tutorials. Even as crude as they are, you're instructions are easy for a layman to understand.