Set Us Up The Bomb Edition
Keep strictly real-steel topics in >>>/k/ , gun and gear porn's cool as long as you don't spam.
>/asg/ retailer guide
faggot who made it chimped out. open for takers.
>International and local laws concerning Airsoft, things to consider while traveling
>/asp/ergers with Airsoft guns - Skype group
Group link is dead again. Respond to OP with your skype name to get added.
Props! What does your field use? Building anything yourself?
>mootwo, being a fucking idiot, makes /asp/ wrestling
>now anything that's an alternative sport is pushed to the fucking bottom
>new thread because the one before this got pushed to page 10 with under 100 posts
what a fucking joke
Some janitor or mod set it to automatically sage before bump limit. Why? We can't know, but that's why there's this thread now. Old thread won't bump. I'm hoping it was an accident or some shit from a new jani.
In the meantime, talk airshit. Not even the /wwe/fags are enough to keep this off the first page.
What are the dankest modern Russian camouflages called?
I run flecktarn right now but it's not acceptable for anything more than skirmishes so I need an approved camo pattern for real events.
My personal favorite is Kamysh, but Reed and SS-Leto are also good options. Digital Flora if you're willing to follow through with the little green men kit.
If you want the most modern cutting edge spetznaz kit, that's multicam, but that's not really much of an option.
We don't have a problem with those people, the org kindly invites them to leave. If they don't, then they're not kind and just kick them out. Disrespectful behaviour gets you (and your whole team) kicked out and probably banned from all fields
Refs and field staff should be dealing with ragers. Dealing with them yourself could very easily backfire, like overshooting them or shooting them close up. Another option would be to talk to the guy's friends about it, but that could also backfire. All-in-all, get on your field's staff about it and see about getting other people to join you in walking out if they don't do about the anger management.
Also, remember to REPORT AND IGNORE shitposters in the thread. Dealing with them directly can backfire just like dealing with a rager..
Based Mods have cleared the thread of shitposts. Post your kits.
Not really, I don't know enough about Russian forces to have an opinion. I run an AK74u and a minimalist loadout if that is in any way reminiscent of an actual operating force.
alright I'll post some pics I use for inspiration, if you have any questions about the equipment in the pics ask away
>being mad at other people having fun
Genuinely feel sad for you.
I still haven't got around to doing a purely kit-only photo, but this is what I was running at the last semi-milsim op I went to.
Weekend after that, went to a CQB skirmish, 416 even with NPAS tuned fully down was shooting too hot so went pistol-only, was quite enjoyable for a change as I usually only do milsim stuff. Only had a battle belt for a month or so, it's working extremely well, heartily recommend them to people.
Had a professional photographer get some pretty awesome shots, too
Stop feeding the trolls just report his post and move on, If you feel like shit talking go find the thread with the WalMart guns as the first post, that's all that's happening in that thread
Thanks. Not really that brave to wear them though, none of those patches belie what they're referencing, so it's much easier to wear them conspicuously without anyone asking questions. When someone does ask a question I just say it's not worth explaining. Only people who have recognized any of them wouldn't judge me for it. Well, maybe one, but I know his powerlevel is at least as high as mine.
You're on 4chan. All of these patches were pulled from patch buys organized by 4channers. Take a wild guess.
>look up N.E.E.T. and then drop the N
But that's wrong.
How much does your airsoft gun weigh? Mine weighs 6.6 lbs
Rastr is a really nice camo, it's like a simplified Kryptek camo.
When will we start seeing people dress as the PLA? I wanna start oppressing the falun gong.
I have a set of universal and arid Type 07 camo, the universal (green, grey, black) doesn't really work in Northern Europe, though the arid is pretty neat in autumn.
I really like the Type 03 rifle they're producing now, so that would be neat to see in airsoft form (though given airsoft is illegal in mainland China I don't see a market for it unfortunately).
>Not wanting to be a memesofter
What, you a tryhard or something?
>What is a memesofter?
I suppose here it's meant as a derogatory term for an airsoft player who doesn't take things seriously, often with the (skillful or not) expression of contemporary humor, in this case, memes. As someone who would probably qualify as a memesofter, I'll be the first to admit there's some pretty cancerous shit out there.
Yes, I'm pretty sure, but, that guy's a reddit memesofter. He doesn't have any other /ak/ patches, so I'm assuming that's the second run Sako patch which got some circulation on reddit. Just keep an eye on the /ak/ threads on /k/ and /a/ and you'll find a patch thread eventually. That one was from this year.
I got my SA80 HPA'd about two or three months ago. I still just use unbranded high caps. Never had an issue.
They stop being noisy in the pouch if you fill them to the very top, and they're not noisy while empty, I've got used to not making any noise while moving.
It may be airsoft, but safety is safety
No they are different, CYMA 04x series are amazing, build quality is great compared to DBoys stuff nowdays. Yeah they won't be on the E&L level or close but for the money you get an excellent deal
What is /asg/'s opinion of bring a gf/spouse to a game?
Personally I enjoy getting away and out of the house, and would no less want to bring my gf than I would want to go on one of her outings with her girlfriends.
I don't wear any lower face or a helmet just my Comtac 3's just don't enjoy the feel of it on my face or head
(I have however felt how painful it is to get a tooth shot out. That sucked)
>After the horrific attacks in Paris the the European Commission has expressed the desire to adopt:
>* Compulsory Registration for Airsoft Replica's
Not registering you airsoft replica's will result in criminal penalties and a criminal record.
I, for one, fully agree with the proposed guidelines, and am confident in the decision making of our peers and representatives in Brussels.
I do not see any reason to pay any attention to this, or to object to it in any way.
Call your fucking hits
Don't yell at people for not calling their hits
Don't be an asshole
Don't get into fights, it makes us look bad
>I love watching videos of cheaters and assholes in airsoft
I got a ricochet to the tooth and it put me out of play for the rest of the day, switched to marshaling. Agony.
Yeah, a relatively new guy brought his wife once. He was doing this all day so we kept shooting him and leaving her to split them up.
They were both horrible at the hobby and thankfully stopped playing.
Oh were airsoft guns used in the attacks? How horrible! Legislation should be in place.
Oh wait, no. We're placing further restrictions on airsofter's for unrelated reasons.
Target shooters in legitimate gun clubs get this shit all the fucking time in the UK.
Stress on how many. Two shots to the same place on a bony part of the body like a knuckle or the skull is fucking shitty.
Aside from £5 for 2000 rounds, not really. Everyone's heavily advertising price drops, but the prices still look pretty much the same.
Try to be pleasant and learn from mistakes. Don't get irate.
Honestly, if everyone tried thier best to be courteous, the sport would be much better.
Don't bother watching the whole thing, just 47 seconds in. He actually tried to say he wasn't hit.
Lets talk paintjobs,what paintjob tickles your fancy? I really want to build a rhodesian loadout for so long. I'm planning on a G3 instead of a tacticool FAL carbine.
>tfw you talk to an airsoft grill and bbs spill out of your pockets
Christ, if that shit passes, that's a multi-million dollar chunk out of the industry. Hopefully they actually review how actually fucking unpractical it would be to track down and register or destroy every single gun they consider a replica firearm.
Given that the redfield scope mount has been a firearms standard for the past 100 years or so and guns are only now slowly adopting weaver mounts, I think it's fair to say that the "standard mount" in question would be a redfield mount. If you're such an elite SF DEVGRU Multiglam MARSOC AFSOC cock mongler that you don't realise the rest of the world is actually using the system that has worked fine for so long, then shame on you.
>and guns are only now slowly adopting weaver mounts
The Weaver design has been around for decades, and the Picatinny came around in the 90s. To my knowledge, currently produced arms in the United States military all use a 1913 Picatinny mount; the M16A4 was adopted in 1994 for God's sake.
What the hell do you mean by "Only now slowly adopting"?
This shit right here. Really want to do up my M14 like it.
Just so you know, Selous Scouts used AKMs and AKMSs too. It's much easier to get a quality AKM for cheap and paint it Rhodesian. G3s are a bit harder to come by as far as quality is concerned.
That's true! The selous scouts also captured amd 65, rpks and rpds during the war.
20% off PIG FDT Alpha Glove and free shipping on bb's.
Innawoods, with my AK.
(This isn't mine, mine is less worn.)
Kyyaaah~ don't be s-so lewd anon kun! O feed from there!
You've killed my hard on with the thought of mags pinching them.
I replaced my AK's trigger contacts and wiring.
Now, it fires fine in full auto, but in semi it'll shoot once, maybe struggle to shoot a second, then do nothing till I switch to full.
What did I break -this- time?
not a tech but ive built a few v3s back when i used to play. if you're having issues with semi its probably the anti reversal. Could also be a motor issue. I'd crack the gearbox, re-grease it, re-shim it if you know how, then if that doesn't work try a new motor.
A lot of my knowledge is from the internet and trial and error, and the best way to learn is to buy broken guns and break them down. Look through some sites boneyards, sometimes they have good stuff real cheap.
What brand AK by the way?
Aha, I had a DBOYS as well, copped for about 89, rebuilt it with scrap parts and had a friend re-shim it. The pin system is a fickle bitch and honestly the TM style disassembly, while less realistic, is so much easier.
As for guides, youtube will be your friend, but stock shims and bearings shouldn't be much of an issue unless you're running a high ROF setup or you're really worried about the condition of your internals.
Really though, I'd try a motor swap as you'll be able to figure out if its the problem within minutes. Just borrow a friends AK or G36.
Here are some junk builds, don't be afraid to take apart your guns, worst you could do with the Chinese made ones is ruin the gearbox, and those can be had for $50.
I've had the gearbox apart several times. Can't change the trigger contacts without opening it.
I'll be replacing the piston head in a couple of days too, so if I can figure out why she's not working in semi by then, I can fix her.
Semi lock up seems to be a common glitch in both V2 + V3 gearboxes (hence the warning that TM include in their manuals).
I'm not sure what mechanical alterations can be made to remedy it, but to minimise it you can:
>ensure trigger is pulled to the end of it's travel
>use stronger battery
>use hi-torque motor
>install hi-speed gears
I had a similar problem with a CYMA AK74, and since installing a hi-torque motor and switching to lipos I cannot recall it occurring again.
R8 my CYMA AK74
Also who else is full crazy about interchanging AKM and AK74 mags?
its cropped from another gun, then i pounded a piece of steel into the inside of the handguard and screwed it in.
regular dong < reverse dong
missed the part where you said you changed the trigger contacts. But yeah, motor or anti reversal latch could be whats going wrong.
I just call mine a 103 so people don't get upset about it being incorrect. Besides, I like steel mags more anyways.
CYMAs are solid like rocks, but yours looks like its caught between tactical and oldschool. If you're going tactical, black out the furniture or make it a dark brown/plum color. If oldschool, get 74 steelies (they're rare as fuck but worth it) or orange mags, then get a milsurp strap. What's your loadout like?
>Everywhere I look, Multicam
Ah, I'm just hating on it cus everyone else does too. Gear is well thought out and you haven't gone over the top. I have a set of MC myself, hypocritical and proud.
It's literally the same as bringing your friend to a game. If anything it's better because you can be more in sync with each other if you've been together long enough.
I just found this old pic, I've since sold the sniper to a mate, (camo-wrapped it for him too, I'll UL a pic as well) and it got me thinking about how I kinda miss it now.
Anyone else get that feeling ever? Where they sell a gun they don't want, but then get reminded of it and kinda want it again?
So here's the pic of the wrapped R700.
Was literally just duct-tape wrapped and cut with a craft knife to perfection.
After working from Tuesday to today, I got another shift from evening to midnight.
I worked 16 hrs straight on friday.
I want to sabage.
APS have some cool ideas. But I bought a UAR. And it was really a mess to get right. Externally it was solid and the features it have are satisfying.
But I don't think it is as solid internally.
I had some major issues with getting the hop-up to work. I have bought 3 different rubbers and spacers but it refused to work and bb got stuck when the hop was to high. So just to test changing to a longer nozzle and it worked. Now I have a working gun. But I would rather put the money I spent on fixing the Uar on a more expensive better gun.
Isn't a UAR a inexpensive starter gun aimed at beginner budgets? It's a shame hearing that, I was planning on getting one because it was a bullpup and as a loaner gun/ back up gun. Are the internals really that bad?
It's really is a mixed bag. The inner barrel is great. It has metal bushings, metal nozzle and the hop up chamber is also metal. But stuff like the gears, tappet plate is nothing to cheer for. And when I opened it and checked the cylinder and piston. There were no compression at all. And the tappet plate was broken. So yeah. If you can find it for cheap somewhere. Go for it. It is a very nice gun with some neat things like quick spring change and all that.
However you need to go through it and fix some stuff.
So i recently impulse bought a Dboys PDW. I have no experience of airsofting nor do i think i'll really have time to get into it.
I always wanted an airsoft gun when i was a kid but i never got one so i indulged myself when i stumbled upon it super cheap.
It's probably not great but it'll be good enough for my purposes.
DBOYS and CYMA, while china made, are pretty good on reliability. Just don't expect the world from them and don't run high voltage batteries. Stick with 9.6s for standards or 7.2s if you're going lipo and you'll never have an issue.
Some mosfets can be programmed to do 3rd burst or other settings. Most just prevent the trigger contacts from deteriorating.
Mosfets increase trigger response and eliminate trigger contact arcing. They can also provide a feature known as Active Break, where the mosfet will apply a reverse current to the motor that will stop it from spinning almost instantly after the trigger is pressed. Some can provide other functions like burst modes and low voltage battery protection.
I really hate upgrading guns, whats the best ranged out of the box gun for <$500? Also I would prefer it be an AK
Your motor is too weak to pull your gearbox.
Things you can do to make it easier for your motor from the most effective and/or likely to the least likely and/or effective
>Correct the motor height
I'd also buy a new motor. Dboys stock one is shit. P&J or A&K HT motor will pull any spring you throw at it. JG M42 Blue is faster and will pull all the usual springs with ease.
Here's a video for proper shimming.
Most airsoft guns will break down eventually. Higher RoF just means that you're going to wear down your gearbox faster. Chinaguns generally have only a single metal tooth in their pistons and almost all guns have either bad or awful angle of piston engagement. In other words, your piston will most likely fail eventually no matter what battery you run.
I'd run stock guns with 7,4v LiPo, but you can use 11.1v as well if you're not afraid of spending money and time.
300& E&L, Force Core or Cyma AK + 100$ parts + 100$ service.
I know that feel.
>One of my first gas guns was a KWC Desert Eagle that I got off of a friend for like $40
>Never filled the mags right so I thought the mag was fucked
>Traded it for an HFC Glock 26 that actually became a piece of shit
>Sold the G26 for $30~35
SHS 14T blue piston
SHS 12:1 or 13:1 gear set
Decent ordinary mosfet.
SHS HT or ZCI Balanced motor for 35-40RPS
JG M42 Blue motor or ZCI HT motor for 30RPS
A&K, P&J or Cyma HT Motor for 25RPS and near instant semi
32TPA Frankentorque motor for about 20RPS and near instant semi
Prome or Guarder spring. SHS springs are okay too, but they might surprise you.
If you have 6 or 7mm gearbox buy SHS metal bushings. For 8 and 9mm gearboxes SHS steel ball bearings.
Nozzles are bit tricky, but you want one that is the correct length and has an O-ring. Correct length doesn't necessarily mean that ''M4 Nozzle'' fits all Colts.
Piston head that's light, cheap and has large holes. Stock Dboys one is pretty good.
Make sure you buy a spring guide that has bearings and suitable knobs for your gearbox.
Teflon tape, silicon grease and MoS-grease for air seal and gears.
6mm Silicon tubing for R-hop. The stock bucking can be used. If yout think you aren't able to make an R-hop, turn your stock bucking into flat hop. Madbull Blue or Maple Leaf if you want to go with a traditional bucking. Tubing can also be used to lock down the hop up chamber to the gearbox.
Sorbothane or faucet washers for correcting the piston angle of engagement. Sorbo can be also used to make an ''M-nub'' for your flat or R-hop.
shim set for shimming.
If you want a barrel, buy either Madbull or ZCI. If you're on budget, dont buy a barrel.
Turnigy LiPos that have at least 1200mAh and 25-50C.
You don't necessarily have to replace all the parts listed here. Piston, AoE correction, air seal, shimming and hop up are most important. The RPS estimates are for 13:1 and 12:1 gears and 11.1v LiPo. Even if you want low RoF, it's still better to use high voltage battery and low ratio gears than stock 18:1 and 7.4v. Just use a very high TPA (Torque) motor so your gun will be more energy efficient and there will be less semi semi delay.
>buy baofeng radio for airsoft after watching jet desertfox's video on his set up for it
>get the radio and a ptt
>learn that I can't use it at all on any frequency or channel because it's not fcc compliant
Set it to low power (about a half-watt) and don't clog any restricted frequencies and no one will give a shit. If you really want, get a HAM radio license and use it on HAM frequencies. I set mine up to certain FRS frequencies and com matrices for milsim events, and I ONLY use it for those events, being sure not to overpower anything. Hell, if you really want a daily use, you can program your radio to scan police frequencies and not transmit. You DID buy the programming cable, didn't you?
Then you shouldn't have any problems. Set up Chirp, watch a few tutorial vids, keep your radio power low to prevent overpowering frequencies (it helps battery life too), and only program in FRS frequencies for ordinary team use or the frequencies the event is reserving for use, be they FRS frequencies or MURS or whatever.
Anyone on here personally have a set of ATACS LE? I'm interested in getting it myself for CQB fields, but almost every picture I've seen shows it to be very blue-grey.
The thing that's thrown me off is a single low-res picture from a friend of a friend, showing it to be a lot darker, much closer to something like MC Black.
Blue grey is more effective at night than those photo shoots you seen in broad daylight and added filters. If you ever get the chance to see atacs le indoors it'll look more black navy.
I fucking love how shitball 3 hole balaclavas look.
>Eagerly buy a BTC Spectre off of the only fucking place I can find it, Ebay USA
>Pay slightly over the top
>Pay loads for shipping
>Post office holds it without notifying me due to backlog
>Got to pay £16 VAT
>Disassemble my gearbox completly
>Go to install it
>See one of the teeny tiny fire selector microswitches on the back is broken
>Have to spend £10 and another 3 weeks sending it back for warranty
Why can't life just be simple?!
... hold me /asg/
What are some helmet replicas that don't look fucking awful?
I've been thinking of getting a helmet since I'm just using a hoodie at the moment but I don't want to end up looking like that "Don't worry I'm from the internet" guy.
Any airsofters around London? Im looking for a group of fellow memesters to share my powerlevel with. In return for my excessive anime knowledge I'll let you give me lifts to airsoft events free of charge.
> extensive anigay knowledge
> doesnt drive
> plays with toy guns
Pic is literally you
So I like AKs and want to get a higher end one like an E&L or LCT, however I want a polymer furniture one and they all have folding stocks so I need to use stick batteries. How do you guys carry stick batteries for longer games, they don't fit in any pouch and if you just stuck them in you plate carrier or something they'd probably snap or prevent the carrier from bending. Also, I don't suppose anyone makes a Type56 with polymer furniture do they?
Been a CYMA fag for a while and while their higher end steel guns are good I want something with a little more quality as I plan on starting to go to ops. I don't want a Real Sword because of the proprietary parts even though they're beautiful guns, so I want an E&L or LCT. Can you guys give me input on both and which you'd recommend, what I can gather is:
Am I right, any input appreciated
Finished my AK at last, last parts to come were the ak stock pouch, zenitco goose rail and flashlight.
Because you guys spam a fucking lot, I would prefer one of those web chat private rooms
Can't help but feel that it'd look better with the zenitco dust cover and lower handguard rail combo, but that shit costs money; even for repros.
Yup, the plan is to upgrade to that some day, but it 's like 180 for the handguard and cover.
I feel like I should do another gun now, I have in mind cloning one of Queerbait's AR15
I just got the rail extension and got a surefire clone, it was cheap and when I got it it doesn't look that good, might just buy a night evolution one as they look much better and I'm sure they will be brighter
Oh and there was a company which cloned all rusky stuff who sold the goose extension and the flashlight for a very good price, I think it was in japanese shop that sold a lot of stuff for GHK's
I want a metal AK spetsnaz with real wood, a folding skeleton stock, and a kobra reflex sight (preferably lever mounted rather than picatinny).
What are my options? I'm going to slav the shit out of this.
LCT then. AK74SU. No questions. The next one up from your budget is an Tokyo Marui. I don't think E&L make a Spetz AK.
£199 from Fire support for the LCT though, sop about £50 for a replica Kobra.
TM are odd sizes. LCT fit a lot of RS attachments. but to be honest, if you want to attach cool shit that's real to a toy gun, you may as well splash the cash and pick up a GBBR. GHK make lovely weapons with LCT bodies, so you know the bodies are good. Plus they don't seem to die.
LCT are pretty reputable. Any attachments you get for a standard AK sight rail should be compatible.
This guy is right. I was thinking you wanted a gun for circa £200-£250 rather than all of it. Cyma are really good. Just stick to the CM04+ series as they have better bodies.
(Not sure they make a spetz in that series though do they?)
You don't need to bump the thread, unless wrestling assholes have 300 threads up still
just wanted to pop in and congratulate you guys on hitting the bump limit
keep up the HLR and I'm sure you'll do it in the next thread too
Are you retarded? My stick batteries fit in nearly every pouch I have. AK pouches, my utility pouch, my backpack, my kangaroo insert, and my flashbang pouches.
>prevent the carrier from bending.
Oh, you mean prevent it from doing exactly what a plate carrier isn't supposed to do?
mmm I think Telegram doesn't need your phone number. Anyway people have been civil here. I could give out mine and you can just add me.
Well they don't on most STANAG-sized pouches. Anyway you can use a 2-stick 7.4 or even 3-stick small/medium11.1v lipo under the dust cover (most of the time) and they do FIT any pouches
Well, the E&L will let you use all your CYMA mags without having to buy new ones to fit the LCT mag wells, but you can get some very unicorn Slav AK models like all their 9x39 guns (VSS, AS VAL, SR-3/M) if you're willing to get new magazines anyway.
So, if you just want an AK, go E&L. If want something different but still Russian, or want to Daytona Gun your AK eventually, go LCT.
if you can choose, the expandex/lycra on the G2 ends up tearing and breaking with some medium use.
Gen3 solve this... by removing the lycra and reforcing the parts that break more easily
I want to pick up a Bolt SR-47 URX one of these days. They look so cool.
I use a flashlight foregrip, so it's right where it's designed to be, though it's a bit high for access in a natural right-handed stance for me. Fine for left-handed since my thumb reaches right up.
That's where you tend to want your pressure pads, in a place that's comfortable to access and squeeze for both left- and right-handed operation. For guns with a foregrip, the best place is usually on the side of the foregrip where it can easily be squeezed by a right or left handed operation. For when you don't have a foregrip, I favor a 9 o'clock position since it's easy to reach with your left thumb or the base of your palm from multiple positions on the handguard, but the 3 o'clock position is just fine and a bit more traditional.
I'm going to get a LiPo battery to replace the the crappy NiCad one that came with my gun and was wondering how many milliampere-hours are enough? I'd like to be able to play the whole day I'm out if possible.
Is anyone part of a milsim group? Could any of you guys share your thoughts or experiences of being in one? I always saw milsim as top tier pinnacle airsoft events for really experienced people.
What effect this number do?
I am planning to get one of those amazing cyma AKs. Stock, not changing anything until it breaks.
So, 7.4v LiPo, 1200mAh, but what discharge rate should I choose? What will happen if the rate is too low?
Higher C and mAh means higher discharge. If it's too low your gun will cycle slower and the battery will puff and deteriorate. LiPos have two C values. The higher one is burst rate which the battery can sustain for a second or two.
Generally airsoft guns require about 10-20 amps, so even 1000mah 15C battery might cut it but it's better to be on the safe side. 1200mAh 25-50C battery will be able to discharge 30A continuously and 60A burst. If your gun is inefficient or highly tuned, it might require more.
Radios are esential, if you don't have a radio during a milsim game you should not be playing, first of all it might be dangerous as you can get lost or need assistance.
BDUs are up to the team's preference, I think a team looks more solid with the same camo on, but that's just for the looks, it also helps with the identity, our team is one of the few arround using AOR2 so it's pretty cool.
GBBRs are for fun as heck tho not suitable for everyone, cold sucks with them.
NODs help a fucking lot at night. If i had the money I would totally buy one.
Not necesarily. There is always people with higher standards in quality that don't mind paying higher prices for their stuff.
We don't mind newer players wanting to try milsim as long as they're motivated to do so.
Of course if your event has a camo, radio, etc. minimum requirements you have to meet them.
I wouldn't go alone to a milsim game
Don't need a GBBR
Don't need NODs
Radio is $50
Uniform is at the very most $80 if you need a special snowflake pattern
So I'd say for less than the cost of an Op getting into MILSIM isn't bad
GBBRS are actually terrible choices for milsim since you'll probably be the only person in your squad with a gas gun, which means you can't borrow anyone's mags and they can't borrow yours.
I just got an ACM Eotech 552 and while inside the house it seems to work fine, if i point it outside, it's barely visible. How do i deal with that? Should i just kill myself for buying chink shit?
If you can stand the probably countless jokes, than i fully support your decision. There was a guy on FB that had a very neat Portuguese paratrooper loadout from the same time period. In other news, i just finished reading "Fireforce" by (lol) Chris Cocks. Very good book imo.
I'd just buy a tube sight, like an aimpoint. I've never had good experiences with clone EO Techs
In what way are those superior? Also, does anyone know anything about those little docter reddot clones? The kind that are usually put on ACOGs as a close range alternative sight? Are they good?
This kind i mean.
>the one I can recommend without a doubt is the T1
I had a Swiss Arms T1ish replica and it seemed to me that it covered a bit too much of my field of view. By that i mean i couldn't see the BB flying as well as with the irons. And somehow felt that that's more important than quick target acquisition
I have a RMR replica on my AK and works like a dream, the only problem is that if you want to play night games the dot will blind you.
But keeping in mind that all airsoft replicas are reflex sights it depends more on the brand rather than the model.
I think I'm ready to get my first pistol.
I need a sub 350 FPS sidearm that's CO2 powered (preferably)
I'm going to go with the KJW P226 sig sauer that comes with the CO2 and green gas mags.
I'll just toss the gas mag and get another CO2 mag.
Any thoughts or opinions?
Personal preference. Seems more reliable and it's easier to get a hold of.
I swear evike had this gun 2 weeks ago and now I can only find it on redwolfairsoft which is going to charge me $50 S/H.
You can buy propane basically anywhere though, and it's much cheaper and usually quicker to refill your mag than using CO2. CO2 is less reliable in terms of it breaking down your gun faster too, but KJW are pretty tough so it's not as big of a deal as with some other brands.
http://www.evike.com/products/54643/ Is what you're looking for.
That's the only version I'm seeing, too. I'm not sure its even compatible with the CO2 mags because it's not noted at all. They used to have sell a set of one of each mag with the gun.
In case anyone gives a shit I found the CO2 version on airsoftextreme (ty OP retailer guide)
They don't sell extra mags though lol.
If you really must have CO2, get one of these.
yes a "drop leg" only applies to pistol holsters. sub loads are what you call any pouches or bags attached to your thighs. the fell out of style in the 90s because they impede your movement. also he is wearing them too low. if you wear anything below your belt it needs to be as high and tight as you can get it. also nylon universal pistol holsters are chump shit.
I want super realistic airshit versions of some of my real-steel guns. Guns I'd like to own as airshit:
Taurus PT-92 (Beretta 92 clone with rails)
M1895 Nagant revolver
What manufactures do these models best? I'm pretty new to airshit and have only ever borrowed weapons in the past.
>Fell out of style
>Impede your movement
If you don't properly adjust it, sure, but that's with every kind of gear. Beyond that it's just about how much you trust your gear to hold together under stress. Also, not everyone has the money nor the pistol for a blackhawk rig. Sometimes a universal has to do.
So please, Mr. Haley, go cry into your Kryptec elsewhere. We have FUN here.
Exists, buy LCT
Exists. Buy CYMA or LCT
Exists, but only as a shell-ejector from Marushin
>Taurus PT-92 (Beretta 92 clone with rails)
92s are all shit due to a failure point in the safety/decocker. All Taurus-licensed guns are shit.
Exists, but don't even bother.
Probably the most prolific airsoft pistol on the American market.
>M1895 Nagant revolver
Exists, but it's shit.
Milisim is about team-play, so if you want the most out of your milsim experience, you'll want people to play with. This might mean having to wrangle those casual airbros into a working squad. From there it's just about going to events near you, keeping up with the major milsim companies and groups, and practicing with the guys you go with. If you don't want the commitment, there were some guys in this thread (and in the skype group) who went to one of the AMS events in Oklahoma. They're planning on going again next year too. Where are you out of?
You're in luck, they make them.
If you want to even further in terms of realism, you could always get a GHK gas AKM and modify it to be an AMD.
Or gas for that extra kick:
This will be a bit of a problem. There are companies that make spring versions, http://www.evike.com/products/28755/ , but they're not exactly realistic. An Japanese company named Marushin made some gas powered ones a while back, but good luck finding one.
A company called ACM makes a clone of the Marushin, but the quality isn't as good. Believe me, I have two of them and I both got them for sub $40 in broken condition. The pump arms are prone to breaking thanks to the cheap pot metal construction, but you can find replacement steel arms (and I event think they fit real M500 arms. I know they fit real pumps and stocks)
>Taurus PT-92 (Beretta 92 clone with rails)
They don't; but they DO make a PT-99.
Every gas gun manufacturer makes one. Look at KJW, KSC/KWA, or Tokyo Marui for one. (Keep in mind that the Marui and some KSCs are made in Japan, so they have to have plastic slides to comply with Japanese law. You'll have to get an aftermarket slide to go with it). WE makes various 1911s too, but they're generally pretty shitty in terms of tolerances and build material.
>M1895 Nagant revolver
WG/GunHeaven makes one, but keep in mind that they're pretty cheap build wise.
Thanks for the suggestions. What's the $300 difference between an LCT and Echo 1 or JG AMD-65?
>If you want to even further in terms of realism
What is going to be unrealistic about the AMDs you linked to? I don't know shit about airshit.
Thanks for the links and descriptions/analysis.
Standard electric replicas don't have recoil, and there's no need to manipulate anything except the magazine release. You can get gas powered replicas which work more like a real gun, so they have recoil, and you need to operate them in a fairly realistic way.
It'll be completely realistic in terms of operation, but certain things will be different.
With an electric gun the grip will be thicker to accommodate the motor, the magazines contain more than 30+1 (unless you get "low-caps"), don't simulate recoil, and they continue to fire after the last round.
Gas guns emulate a real firearm down to pretty much every detail.
They're (generally) real steel compatible, simulate recoil as much as possible with an airsoft gun, have realistic magazine capacities, and will stop firing after the last round; with some guns having the bolt lock back after the last round (obviously on guns that would have it to begin with). The main drawbacks with gas guns is that they have something called "cool down", where the magazine cools down from rapid fire and lowers the pressure of the gas, and that the magazines themselves can be expensive (~$30, some as high as $60).
As for the difference between the LCT and the JG/Echo1, it's the build quality. All three guns are based off of the design of another company called VFC, which makes their AKs in a more or less 1:1 with real steel furniture (without the aforementioned pistol grip). Echo 1 is a company that rebrands airsoft guns and sells them at a higher price with a 30 day US warranty and some very minor tech work done to them; the Echo 1 AMD is a rebranded JG.
The LCT will blow the JG/E1 out of the water with its stamped steel construction versus the JG's stamped alloy receiver, and has better quality control than JG or E1.
If you're looking to be elitist about your bbgat, or plan on it taking some knocks then the LCT is the better option. If you're getting into airsoft and just want something familiar then get the Echo 1 since it's actually cheaper than the JG on AirsoftGI (!), has the forward grip, and comes with two magazines.
There's a guy here with a JG AMD, >>798744
, who might be able to answer some more specific questions.
>plan on it taking some knocks then the LCT is the better option
Well, that settles it. I want airshit that I can treat like real steel. Is the LCT durable enough for buttstrikes and bayonetting?
Mootwo sent us to WWE hell but we're going deeper anon
Sorry to make this /k/ but no one ever discusses the AMD-65 there. What kind did you buy? DO you like it? Any issues? Its just weird that those things are cheaper than WASRs yet no one ever discusses them
I really wouldn't recommend getting a GBBR as your first gun. They're finicky, expensive, and put you at a disadvantage in pretty much every way. Go AEG, learn how to work on a gearbox, and you'll do well enough for yourself that you'll be able to justify a GBBR one day.