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/asg/ - Airsoft General

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Thread replies: 83
Thread images: 25

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Gunsmith Cats and +10 Raifu of Hades Edition
Last thread: >>556653

Keep strictly /k/ related things in >>>/k/ (no real steel gun laws, etc.). Gear and gun porn is cool.

>Newbie section
General newbie pastebin: http://pastebin.com/WQtUgznd
Maintenance 101: Coming soon.

>List of international shops

>International and local laws concerning airsoft, things to consider while traveling

>/asp/ergers with airsoft guns - Skype group
Just refer your post with Skype name to the OP post, and someone of the group will add you to the convo.

Show and tell us of your newest gun smithting / crafting / modifying successes!
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First for post paintjobs nigga.
So I'm waiting for this shit to come back into stock.


Do I need to have anything modified ? Prometheus barrel ? Or is that not necessary ? I always heard VFC shit is good externally but have no idea how internals are.
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Second for non-paintjobs
Dat l85 with a ris rail
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6th for best waifu.
>best waifu
>not battaru raifu
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>Best Raifu

>Not SVD
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>Not liking slavshit.

It's like you're gay mang.
>implying I'm not a krautboo

I bet you kiss girls, faggot.
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You don't kiss your girls!?
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Not once, not never.
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Not goin for FAL younger sister funco.
>muh Raifu
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The lack of SVD disturbs me.
>Not based Jisuri/Sigu combo
>tfw no G36c
Im stopping by to admire your taste op, rally was my first waifu.
i have a CYMA ak47 underfolder

I really want to get an M4 and not spend 400 bucks. But i want a quality all metal inside and out gun that i can put real steal rails and stocks on.
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Anyone know where I can get spare clamps (to secure the scope to the rail) for this?

Someone in a previous thread said I should buy a cheap red dot to take the clamps, but I got this for free and don't want to spend much for small pieces.
If you don't mind looking unoperator-ish, grab black electrical tape, and fucking wrap it.
Dboys stock hop-up unit is finally crapping out on my RK06. Looks to have a crack in it, or the nub/bucking is just flat out wore out. I've taken it apart a few times and it seemed fine, but after running a dozen rounds through it, the bbs just barely come out of the barrel. So I'm gonna replace it with a Lonex metal chamber, Lonex 70 degree bucking, and an h-nub. Parts should be here within the week. Hoping to increase my range and have something that'll last for a few years.

Thanks, I thought of doing that, in fact I probably will if it costs like 10 dollars for the clamps.
That's a sub $30 dollar red dot. Don't think it's even worth the trouble looking for clamps.
I'm building an ar, I took as base my G&g LR300, I've got a full upper receiver but it doesn't fit to the LR lower even with slight mods. A new lower it's on my way.
As soon as I get the stuff I ordered there will only be one stock part on the gun and that's the gearbox shell.
I won't tell you how to do the things you want to do but, why didn't you get a normal ar base and then get the LR style stock? should have been easier wouldn't it?
For what?
I already have the two LR300 stocks, what I'm doing is converting it to a standard AR, instead of that stock I'll put a buffer and a Troy AX stock
I just assumed, I've seen ar builds with that stock so.
If you want to stick to realism ARs cannot have that kind of stock.
I'm not doing it for realism but because I want the AX stock and a rear wired AEG
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Just finished modifying my used JG g36k. It shoots even better than before.
For internals i got a new bucking and HopUp-chamber(because it was kinda worn out by the previous owner), a shorter 6.03mm g36c barrel, an airseal nozzle, m120 spring and a MOSFET.
As for the externals you can see for yourself but theres the not so obvious handguard mod. Got a bulkier one and now it can store large types in there. And i can even fit a spare large type in the new stock so this aeg can now carry two large types!
ESS Turbonerd here, they just arrived. Having unscratched lenses for a change is something else.
Other than that, eeehhh they look pretty simple. I wonder how they'll do on the field.
Golgo 13 best husbando.
If its a piston ar then they can have any kind of stock and not need a buffer tube
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>Not liking RPK
>Being Gay
Pick both
Usually they are slightly different uppers and who the hell wants having a piston ar when there are much better alternatives out there.
Whatever, I'm getting progress, the problem is that my gearbox does not fit in there so I'm buying a new aps gearbox
Pic related is final result tho for now it's dummy
Hello ASP Is the Jing Gong G36c A good starter gun? I'm a poorfag /k/ommando and want to get into the sport.
If you can afford firarms you can afford airsoft stuff.
the JG G36c is kinda the standar for Airsoft starters.
How much are you willing to spend? Maybe we could suggest something better
Imo, it is. I own 2 of them (a c and a k), and they have never ditched me. I made some modifications later on, but even before they worked just fine.
A JG G36 is equivalent to a Cyma AK. You really can't go wrong.
Getting a sexy black and tan g&g f2000 tomorrow.

Probably going to sleep with it.
I wish they sold the black ones without optics somewhere in yuro.
The optics are just part of a cosmetic upper, iirc, you can totally remove them.
Yeah you can, and they are pretty bad optics
Imo they look very cool
Have any of you used a JG M4-S before? It's what I have, and the battery compartment is notoriously small. It can't fit anything bigger than an 8.4 small type without modification. However, I'm new to airsoft and am looking to pick up a new battery, is there anything you'd recommend? It comes with the shitty 1100mAh Nimh from the factory, and I've heard that other 8.4s in the 1600mAh range are actually too big to fit as well. Or at least that's what I read in some reviews of Tenergy ones. Is there any brand you'd recommend that you know will fit? Would a 7.4 lipo be small enough to fit?
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How many airsoft guns do you guys own? The temptation to buy a second gun (dboys m4) is high.but it would be cheaper to just find a new gearbox online.
2 working
1 hollowed out shell
3 and one gearbox
I like having what I need, something for CQB something for field and some pistol

If you buy something more buy a better quality one
So lt me just get this straight, the C rating of a lipo is only what it can reliably produce at max? Meaning that even if I get one with a higher C rating (20C with 40C burst for example), it wont do anything to be gun because if it doesn't need to pull 20-40C then it wont, right?
I'd looking into getting a fake peq box to stick on it for a battery compartment so you can step up to a big boy's 9.6 NiMH. If you're up for it, a 7.4 lipo will most likely fit in there. Otherwise Intellects are about as good as 8.4s get.
I'll probably go for a 7.4. Found an 1800mAh one that in theory would fit perfectly. Is this here >>569279 correct though?
>Do poor man's fps test
>One place says the bottom center of the can is 430fps
>Another says it's actally 385
Damn it one of them would make my gun field legal and the other one wouldn't, and I'm not about to drive 20 miles to get my gun chrono'd at the nearest shop.
No, it's not. There is no sense of "need" when drawing energy, there's only resistance and the capacitance of a circuit. This is why people encourage the use of mosfets and deans plugs, particularly with lipos. Having a high-discharge rate WILL wear out electrical wear points, like trigger contacts and Tamiya plugs and are more likely to arc (which a mosfet prevents) and cook-off shots than lower discharge batteries. I can't recommend high discharge rates without rewiring your gun to handle it and making sure you have sturdy enough parts within your gearbox to take the higher speeds as well.
So all these people debunking lipo myths are wrong and the anon on 4chan is right?
You can totally run a lipo on your gun and see no ill effects for a decent while, but sooner than later, you will. Arcing is decently rare as well, but it's more likely to happen with a lipo than a NiMH. It's just a long-term wear issue and it's always a smart idea to make sure your gun will last. Just don't come crying to us how you now have to replace your trigger contacts because they burned out.
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Well where can I get something less than 20~40C that'll actually fit in my gun? There aren't any on Hobby King that will, and that's where everyone tells me to go for batteries. Anything more than 105mm long or so wont work.
Do you have a measuring tape and a sound recorder? Put a target out 5 feet, and record the time it takes for the bb to hit the target by sound, or you can just use video recording to measure the time between the motor sound and the target being hit. Calculating FPS should be simple after you know some constants, such as time and distance travelled. Make sure the distance is small so you can get a better estimate of terminal velocity from the tip of the barrel, which is how most fields measure FPS.
I dunno, that's not really my issue. I'm just informing you of the potential consequences of using a lipo for a gun that's not set up for it. I'm going to be getting some lipos for my gun so I can run my flashlight foregrip AND a collapsible stock on my MP5, but I'm waiting until I have the time to rewire it with a mosfet before I go that far.
And I'm just saying that everything I've read and seen so far is people explaining that the motor doesn't draw more energy than it need, regardless of how high the C rating on your battery goes. On top of that, people also explaining that high voltages are what cause things like arcing, burnt contacts, etc. which boils down to a 7.4v not being considered high voltage at all.
The motor doesn't draw any more energy than it can use, and that's a matter of, again, resistance and capacitance. It's still more energy than your trigger contacts will like. Even under NiMH, trigger contacts and motor brushes burn out. With more energy moving through them, they'll burn out faster. I said before, you'll get just fine performance, but you're more likely to have electrical problems sooner. Running a mosfet and deans plugs will remove pretty much all your potential electrical issues sans motor brushes and give you even better trigger response. From there, you just have to make sure your gearbox internals can take the greater wear of the higher speeds.
Then I'll just YOLO it. It's a $120 gun and if the electrical go wrong at some point then so be it. I don't care enough about upgrading the gun beyond bushings/shims/etc. since I'll eventually get a better one anyway.
Ger a couple of 7.4s lipo batteries, they are cheap.
If you don't like how they fit you can always rewire the battery and put the battery at the buffer tube.
Why don't you change the spring to something like a SP90, it will be right for sure
I have an m100 I can swap in but I'd rather not have to do that if my fps would be passable with my current one.
Then risk or buy a fucking chronograph
Do they even sell chronos that aren't like $70?
that crono is shit, just read the comments
XCORTECH X3200 or nothing
Dude, an M100 is a CQB spring. You'll be fine, even with a bore-up
you gotta love 'merican limits.
I said I don't want to have to use my CQB spring though. My field limit is 410 and I'd like to keep it as close to that as possible, but according to the can test it's either ~380 or ~430
Anyone got some recomendations on bushing? Brand wise at least, I don't think I'll be going with ball bearing.

I have used a JG g36 c for over 3 years whit a 7.4 lipo, and a g36 k for another year whit lipo aswell.

IMO, people are a bit too paranoid about lipos. its just 7.4 volts. Yeah, it would be better if I had a mosfet, but it is not mandatory.
So airsplat is having a 55% off deal on all guns, and I was looking at a Cyma 035 AK which'd come out to around $60. Worth it, or is the 045 a big enough upgrade to try finding that instead?
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TROY stock and handguard on King Arms M4
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Toybro! Cool trx but I would put a longer one having such barrel
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Airsoft Red Ryder when? They can churn these things out and sell them for 25-30 bucks, full metal, real wood and they clock in at 350 fps. For what they are they're pretty reliable. If they could do that for an airsoft version they'd have a really cool and ultra affordable little springer. It'd have to be a little bit bigger in dimensions and the hop-up would probably be fixed, but still for 30 bucks with real wood and full metal, how can you beat it?
>Sell them for 25-30 bucks
More like 200 for the nostalgia factor
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Knowing how most airsoft companies are, I wouldn't be surprised. Even though the gas lever actions are only about $180 that could outperform it in every way imaginable.
I can already picture Evike Matt or GI Bob doing their "review" for it.
>Pick up one of these ultra cool and nostalgic G&G Ryder spring cowboy carbines for only $175 plus shipping.
I'd hope for a Daisy produced one though. Daisy was into the airsoft market for a little while there with a bunch of cheap springers. So why not come back with the legendary M1938 Airsoft Carbine. I'd pay $50 for one easy.
In your fucking dreams
There are already a couple of lever actions, a gas one and a spring one, pretty cool but expensive
Good place for cheap batteries?
>Airsoft Red Ryder when

an Airsoft Red Ryder is just a Red Ryder
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is there any way to jerry rig a stock to the back of an shotgun, or just put one on normally. I have a weird quotta for a shotgun to make. Under 350 fps, short barrel configuration, retractable stock(preferably not LE) and some metal bits (i.e. barrel,receiver, etc.). So essentially the SAS franchi without the longer barrel and a retractable stock, or vice versa for the short version pic below
Thread posts: 83
Thread images: 25

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