I rike it
Another WIP im working on atm
how the fuck did you manage to lose the thread picture. two threads in a row. here's full res.
Just the first WIP someone posted when WIP threads became a thing. It became a tradition to open with it.
Dont think he ever finished it but heres the thread
>how the fuck did you manage to lose the thread picture. two threads in a row.
I usually make the threads but I didn't make these last two, have been busy.
What should i add specifically to this wall to make it not look bland as fuck?
bumpmaps didn't do much of a difference really
specular isn't possible on brush geometry in source sadly
floor trim. macro color variation. Smooth color variation based on erosion, and sharper color variation based on dirt buildup, etc. Posters and flyers is a good suggestion. Corners are too sharp. The windows should be inset more. Stuff like this Some awnings and tables / chairs outside will add a lot of life to the scene. Signs will help too. Also some accent lighting. Just to start, that's a few ideas.
you think source is only for sfm/tf2? nah it's for gmod
I was retopoing this basemesh sculpt, after I cloned the finger joints the retopo mesh turned to this faded color and I'm unable to snap shit together. I was really loving 3dcoat up until now.
Mmm, there really isn't a story to it. I was working on stuff for my portfolio at the time, and /3/ was brand spanking new. So I was making WIP threads with whatever I was working on at the time.
That one stuck, and has seen so many silly variations and reuses, it makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside.
>yfw 5 years later I'm still making blocky ruins, radioactive grass, and stupid looking water
Delicious, although her sternocleidomastoids are lumpy and thick at the bottom and not quite heading toward the appropriate termination point. They're also a bit too pronounced for a straight forward resting position.
Hey gays my normals come out flat when baking this shingle to square plane. Wtf do.
[spoiler] pls no bully [/spoiler]
the updated concept to allow gripping. may or may not include the circular hole in the middle since it might make the hand hard to read when it's in front
i imagine it depends on how successful you were.
no point in going after someone without money, right?
I wouldnt worry about it, and if you did somehow make your fortune off your indie game, just buy a license and you'll be square
bit underwhelming anatomy wise, gotta say, your drawing skills are much better than your sculpting ;f
Don't spend too much time messing about with anatomy, or they will invariably end up looking like an anorexic biology subject.
thats the worst fucking advice
like the less bulky concept version more
maybe i would make it flatter but wider
and i mean very flat, so that they look light and easy to handle
oh and a quick blockout of what i saw when i first looked at it
then again you might want to go for that vi look from lol with those big mech arms
but im not sure how that will look if the hands are behind her normal hands, maybe put them nside of the hand. like open up the area and put the visibly in, show it when you do the whole arm
practicing environment in blender
need advice on the water, i added mix shader of translucent and diffuse, with green specular
the sun has yellow tint
corrected with hue/saturation
should i really use a texture for this?
it's not gonna look right because water has no texture. What you see in water is the light that passes through it and the light that bounces off of it. Make an environment bubble so it has something to reflect.
I wanted the huge look because of the vertically asymmetrical balance, but I'll give the thin look a try, too, can't hurt. Know any way to transpose a bunch of subtools at once? lol
also yeah my anatomy needs a lot of work still. I haven't gone in and added more obvious insertion points for things yet though, still fucking with the general shapes
What type of feets would fit this?
it looks like a teal transparent circle.
you gotta actually have reflections. Like a mirror.
This pond has no color of its own. It is reflecting the trees and the sky. The ripples in the water distort he reflection, but it is otherwise perfectly reflective.
The bottom of this pool is bright. So light which enters it bounces back out. The light coming out is brighter than the light bouncing off the surface so that's what you see.
another detail I just notice that makes this photograph of water scream "water" is the many tiny ripples. Not big waves like in an ocean. They're small and noisy enoguh to where they add texture to the reflection without really distorting it. I can see the trees but not the leaves.
I suggest googling "brick building" and seeing what details you might be inspired by from those images. You can do a ton of stuff to make it look less bland like adding weathering, more props, decals like posters or paintings/graffiti, etc.
>you gotta actually have reflections. Like a mirror.
>This pond has no color of its own. It is reflecting the trees and the sky
> The ripples in the water distort he reflection, but it is otherwise perfectly reflective.
>The bottom of this pool is bright. So light which enters it bounces back out. The light coming out is brighter than the light bouncing off the surface so that's what you see.
the sun light bounced back is basically colored by the water and gives you that blue look, but obviously its just the red green and yellow spectrum gets absorbed by water molecules
anyway water will get more reflective the sharper the angle you look at it, look up fresnel equations to see how two mediums with different refractive index interact
and also how much stronger the light coming from under it is
since this body of water is shallow and clean the strength of light reflected under it makes the reflection very hard to see >>495866
all water has a natural blue color due to the way it absorbs light
but here while the pond being also shallow the water is too dirty and most light gets absorbed while going into it and diffused in every direction, not much is coming back so you can see the reflection better, also since the angle is sharper it reflects more light>>495865
here the water is green since it has too much algae swimming in it
anyway your renderer should have some reflection.refraction settings or for the Fresnel effect, just use the settings for water
why the hell would you use a texture for this, you sure use an texture for whats under the water, what you rendering it in ?
Set high absorption values for such a dirty pond, make the water color green, give it high transparency value and high reflective value, and make sure you have a picture of some green brown dirt under it, make the waves circular and sharp and you are done
no clue mate
animem posted that without telling anybody hes working on it
i dont mind the idea but i rather use unreal, its just better looking out of the box
transpose master is the only way to go, its in zplugin top menu
and i dont mind a thicker one but maybe add some room for the hand like this
the advantage of boxmodeling rather than using zbrush for hard edge stuff is that it takes second to bevel and scale a shape up or even the whole mesh
but zbrush management of multiple subtools is a fucking nightmare
If fucking Dropbox is too difficult for you to use, you may as well just give up on 3D all together, seriously. It's a quick install, project leader invites you, you get an email to confirm, now there's a folder on your computer with the game. So difficult.
No shared google account is needed, just one person managing an account and dropbox lets you invite people to have access to the same shared resource, real-time sync included.
I made this in a couple of days, I want to make a cool frog-looking cartoonish character but I haven't found many references I like, so any feedback is welcome.
Looks like its missing something
Saved it, nice colors. I've been using pic related so far but I'm looking forward for a more colorful thing for the texture.
my attempt at an anime-style face
need constructive crytics and opinions
how in the cunt do i smooth this out more? The edges and shit are way too gross.
ur not fooling anyone alien scum. i know its you
> it keeps all the little scrunches and deformities.
No it doesn't... I smooths them out by adding more polys and interpolating a smooth curvature.
If you don't want to do that, then the answer should be damn obvious to you, simply insert more edges in the areas you need to help define the shapes better.
Perhaps you're talking about how smoothly your surface flows are, I see how your face has some lumpiness to it. This is probably because you have triangle or ngons (faces with more than 4 sides).
Post an image with the model selected so we can see the wireframe.
Do you think maybe its because some lines are just too close together?
Get rid of those two triangles above the nostrils.
And yes, part of it is because you have edge too close in some areas while others are very spread out. You want density changes to be more gradual than that.
There are some sculpting brushes you can use to relax the topology.
Well yeah. Tight loops cause pinching. If it is your intention to smooth a mesh in the end you have to use brand strokes. Just cut out every other edge loop on that chin.
Press 3 and show us the problem areas.
Haven’t decided what kind of plastic I am going to use for the motor box, but I’m close to adding my dirt and rust/dust/decay detail.
A fucked up surface is a fucked up surface. Projecting that fucked up surface onto another surface doesn't somehow fix it you fucking dunce.
When your smoothed version looks like shit, baking it to the low isn't going to make it look better -_-'
And the fact you can't tell by the topology on that mesh that it would not smooth to a nice looking surface, shows your lack of experience.
A normal human face has 3 equally size regions. Temple-eye brows, eye brows-bottom of nose, and bottom of nose-bottom of chin.
Anime face have these regions at different sizes. Usually the mouth section being smaller than the other 2 and sometimes the forehead being larger aswell. Use orthography references as inage plains and you'll quickly see what I mean.
You could get away with that arm length if the posture was more ape-like, with knuckle dragging behavior, which might look cool. Otherwise, the forearm is what too long, elbow to wrist is the same length for the most part as shoulder to elbow in humanoid creatures. As for the feet, you could go with two toes on the front with a stabilizing toe on the back, or alter the legs so they have back knees like a dog’s front legs.
Im not too good for it, telling people what they could and how to, improve what could be better is constructive criticism, what you did was essentially tell me it was shit, with no tips on how to improve
panel lines are just sketch, I'll redo them in photoshop later during texturing.
i've softened the metal at the left since taking this shot but here's the reverse side. most of the pieces are missing panel lines but I'm sketching them out now.
strong argument there. To be honest the middle knuckle bothers me most. It's got a cylinder oriented so it might be able to wiggle side to side - but the cylindrical parts between fingers won't allow that motion.
sorry that i put my nose into your design but you maybe should go with idea of "what is need"
usually designers will go this way - simple and solid mechanics. nice sensors for sensitive reaction of the hand and sensors for which collect information about functionality and position of the hand. maybe you should make less extra bolts and mechanics points and add some surfaces with sensors?
I'll cut some holes in the finger shells later to make room for the cylinders and fix some of the errors in the bracket under the palm, but I don't see why most of these is a bad idea. I didn't put holes initially because I figured they were gonna be mostly hidden by AO/dirt anyway. I like the side vents so I'm keeping them unless there's a strong reason why you want them out.
The middle finger isn't supposed to rotate that much so I put those things there, but I'll see how it looks without it.
I don't think sensors are necessary, but I'll tone down the bolts.
There's a skinny girl holding these so I'm not going for a 100% functional design anyway.
Made a bulbasaur, looking for criticism and ways to improve,
your blubasaur got squaritized. Highly recommend you dont start with a shape and try to mold that shape into another shape.
Instead work from the ground up.
Lets take the bulb on his back for example. Dont start with a cube and mold the shape, start at the base of the bulb with just a flat plane and then take the edges and lift them up bit by bit.
Like putting on a pair of pants slowly go from the bottom to the top.
I just got a tablet mainly for drawing but I decided to give sculpting a go too, I honestly have no idea what I'm doing
i think i know what you mean
i used the left image to model the overall shape of it and the right one to put the eyes and mouth in place
Working on a interior scene. Not sure how to fill the scene tho, using max and vray btw
way too bumpy all over, especially over the horns
streamline the design and structure of them
oh and dont use red wax material, it pisses me the fuck off, get yourself mudbox material or just the standard one
how much time did you spend working in this?
A month?, week?, im sure it's at least one month of work.
[spoiler]if you have a life of course[/spoiler]
i really like man keep the good work
Thanks mans appreciate it, took about a week of work so far, been doing it in my lunch break and free time (guess I don't have a life then haha).
Thanks for the feedback man, I normally sculpt in Matcap Grey, just opened it up real quick to get a screenshot, sorry about that, I'll look into smoothing out some of the more noisy parts of the model. Did think I might have gone overboard with some of details, I'll probs render to a normal map first, see how it looks on the LP before I do that though.
This is what I did today, I uploaded it to Sketchfab under the username Funnycom
nah i meant mid level detail
you broke the form of the horn with all those bumps, they look like one object stacked on top of another rather than continuous one long shape
good idea is to have few strong edges to a horn, making it triangle, square, or octagon shaped, but not perfectly round and reducing the streanght of the detail the further along it you go and giving it more and more smooth polished shape, like take your from mid point and flatten everything forward keeping the last 1/3 perfectly smoothing with those long vertical lines and dents and just points where it will start to splinter with age
also adding some twists and one strong edge to it helps
Thanks man this is something that I'm going to try, now you've pointed it out I see what you mean with the horn looking like they've been stacked, need to break up the uniformity of the horns and make them a bit more natural looking.
oh and something i just tested out for easy horns
pick tool spiral>tool>initiate
reduce coverage sdivide to like 3 or 4 and divide to like 30 and play around with setting to create twisty flowing horns
turn off smothingw hen diving, divide, pick transpose and ctrl_drag to pick perfect loops, move around a bit,
and you get steppy horns with no sculpting required in moments
now just standard tool with lazy mouse on something like 10 and you ready to go
Currently working on a generic model I can use in games. Unsmoothed the tri-count is at 5k including eyes and ears, not really sure what the standard is these days.
It might be because it's not wide or round enough but I'll try to shrink it down a bit. Going for a more anime-like head similar to Dead or Alive.
I still need to relax some of the loops and maybe add another loop or two near the jaw as it's currently too square.
What is the best relaxed pose for a body, I used to do the T-pose but I always have problems with stretching and the armpits not being defined properly.
Fixed the cranium, added a few loops at the jaw and fixed that horrible anomaly above the ear. I felt that the flow of the head was wrong so I changed that too.
kinda had more fun with it
fuck me, making horns is hard, ironically i made the same mistake i warned about, i made too many mid level details too strong
I dunno, I think it looks more natural that way. The viewport shading just makes those forms pop more than they actually are. Once you have some nice SSS and grime on the horn, I think it would look really nice rendered.
Gonna need the boys on this one, is this a solid skeletal rig?
How do I tackle giant ponytails properly? I definitely want them to flow using physics in unreal engine 4.
Basically I want the hair to flow as she moves in the engine, is this bones based shit I need to be doing?
First time making a vehicle.
This is a mega low-poly 1954 Hudson Hornet. I'm doing it for a game that is styled after the look of early 2000s games via low polycounts and mega low res textures.
I was thinking of doing a small 1950s-themed random-generated city game with various modular city blocks and buildings. Kind of like Mafia II but allowing you to actually roam and do shit in an open-world instead of being forced onto a linear path.
For a "super" low poly car you sure like to waste polys. Look at that fucking bumper. You see any loops that don't contribute to the shape? I sure do.
Also don't call it super low poly, it really isn't.
Overall it's pretty clean work, but it's not good enough to be interesting. Good first try though.
Yeah, it being a favourite car of mine, I ended up going overboard and wanting to add more detail which I haven't modeled into it yet (ie rounding out the front of the bumper etc, adding all the little indents and such that.
The version I used in the driving screenshots is 600 polys. I might split the model into two and have a crack at making a super detailed, high poly version, and the other one I'll keep basic like this one.
sculpted this guy from Etrian Odyssey
time to retopo literally everything
What's up with the anatomy? The model looks fine, less human and more hybrid how would it be wrong? Basic form looks fine you cant really say learn anatomy with no statement on what it is.
Small update, added little detail to helmet and trimming on some things, replaced shoulder pads by neck area. Wish I could work on it some more but school is in the way. Working on bottom half of body now.
Read some basic architecture books and look at reference, turned my mapping skills 180 in the right direction. Your building looks nothing like anything in real life, add windows, maybe some arches and frames to windows(1+ on the door frames so many maps lack them)
I'm pretty bored, so I'm trying my hand at making a girl.
I've never tried modelling a person or creature before, so it's pretty fucked up haha. I'm gonna try and finish it and see just how horrible it ends up. After, I'm gonna try to read up more on anatomy, or just wait until I eventually get into life drawing at the university.
I like the butt though.
Thanks man, I'll definitely check it out.
For this one though, I wanna go as far as I can on my own and see where it takes me. Honestly I really just want to see how bad it's gonna be.
Earlier I had the fucking feet on backwards, when I realized it I honestly never laughed so hard in a while. Not to mention they looked like empty gloves. I'm having fun with it for now, but I'll definitely check out those videos after.
I'm currently trying to learn from that tutorial here's my progress (fyi first serious blender project)
I have my references as background pictures for the according view already and I don't have references for other angles ... It's not even close to finished anyways, but thanks for the advice.
Mmmm ok, but is your reference orthogonal and aligned to your view? I'm suggesting you need image plains you can literally trace with vertices. Something like pic related.
Another Update, this time with the lower body. I'm really bad with cloth wrinkles but I try. Working on boots and Gloves now.
Something I've been putting together the past couple days, quick render.
I'm making a spacial oriented puzzler for my oculus rift.
How do you mean that? Its gonna be mario galaxy physics. You run up the slopes and it changes your orientation and sense of gravity. I'm trying it out now. Seems ok, just running into a few orientation nightmares with some of my code.
The second one. I'm just orienting the player based on the normals below them. With this reorientation, I just change gravity to match the player's rotation.
This stuff makes my head hurt. I'll be glad when I have the basic walkmode done.
baby's first model.
Is the head ok?
Should I remake it apart and then attach it to the neck?
I'm learning Zbrush, why is my viewport stretched in? and how do I make sharp edges? I'm also using a portable version of Zbrush R4 but the shit starts slowing down as soon as I set the dynamesh to more than 128, do you think being portable is the reason for that?
I'd start with using a regular version of Brush to fix your performance and ui issues.
Hard edges in zbrush are made the same way you make them in real life. Polish one side till its flat then flip it over and polish the opposing side till its flat. Where they meet should be sharp.
Ok I'm back
Making a new document fixed it, I don't know why it happened though I just minimized the program
hPolish is pretty good, but I still find it hard to make really hard edges, is there some kind of pinch brush or something?
Also why does this happen when I increase the dynamesh resolution? everything becomes pixelated, and polishing doesn't seem to fix it
because that's what dynamesh does, also the project modifier is usually turned on for dynamesh however yours is turned off, which can lead to small details getting lost during the dynamesh process.
also can you show us the current size of your geo within ZBrush by going to Tool > Geometry > Size and reading the value on XYZ size
Dynamesh works based on the bounding box on the current size of your geometry. I can almost guarantee you're eventually going to ask why some meshes get really low poly counts when you dynamesh as opposed to other models getting really big poly counts even though you're dynameshing at the same resolution, and the answer to that is because of their size within ZBrush.
You should never really go above size 2 or anything like that if you're dynameshing otherwise you'll get a really dense model dynameshing at default settings. Likewise, if you're modelling something that's small and want to capture more detail then raise its size so the dynamesh applies more polys.
also, if you're doing that kind of sculpting then you'd probably benefit from the polish modifier for dynamesh as well, which applies the claypolish feature automatically for every dynamesh instance. It'll help retain those edges you've currently got going on.
you can also just apply claypolish whenever you want, just a reminder that claypolish applies masks all over your model that you can't notice so clear masks if you manually claypolish before you continue sculpting.
keep sculpting with that kind of size and zbrush might crawl on you, bring that number down to 1 or lower. 0.7 is usually good.
Unless your computer is beefy, then carry on.
If you're bringing this somewhere else to be used then you can always rescale it after you're done sculpting it anyways, so keep the size 1 or lower.
fuck nevermind this post, you can keep it at that size if you want but just remember if you for some reason decide to dynamesh at a higher resolution, like 1000 or something then you'll probably end up with a mesh that has 6 million polygons, which is excessive.
don't worry about the decimals, just keep your size to a reasonable level. The XYZ size actively evaluates the overall size of your selected mesh so if you pull out a shape with the move tool then the XYZ size will increase, so don't worry about it. If you were talking about the extra three sliders for each of the axis then ignore those, unless you are going to stretch your model along the x axis or something then just use the XYZ slider for resizing.
while you're at it, completely ignore the size modifier within the deformations tab if you want to resize something, cause the XYZ size slider will do what you wanted to do and faster, since the deformation sliders relies on the selected mesh to be on the center pivot point of your meshes, and doing that requires more steps.
both manually resizing it and making a new document forcing the document to fit the screen accomplishes the same thing, only the latter gives you more accurate results if you just wanted the document size to fill up ZBrush's inner workspace.
I know absolutely nothing about rigging and animation except that MakeHuman is going to do it for me because I'm a lazy fagtron and I'm in a huge fucking rush.
Is it possible for me to be able to change a mesh after it's already been rigged (i.e. through ZBrush)
Basically I'm trying to chop off the brain cavity of the model and fill it in with some junk I'm going to model, but I don't want to affect the rigging.
I'm trying to imagine doing this myself in 3ds Max. So long as the vertices remain unchanged (with the exception of the brain cavity), it should be possible to copy/paste the rigging almost unchanged, and then fix the extra bits. But with that said, I wouldn't know how to do it.
>hPolish is pretty good, but I still find it hard to make really hard edges, is there some kind of pinch brush or something?
go through all brushesh and test them, you need to learn them sooner or later if you want to use it
>Also why does this happen when I increase the dynamesh resolution? everything becomes pixelated, and polishing doesn't seem to fix it
why others might give you advise how to increse your redynamesh acuracy i would just tell you not to dynamesh
dynamesh is mostly for prototyping at low level and low resolutions, but it gets slow or plain up will crash your software at very high polycounts
when its starting to run slow or when you got your forms established just divide you mesh normally, ctrl+d
you reallly dont need much geometry to make such a simple shape as you made, and with how you didnt cut any holes in it or made any extreme deformations you would do perfectly fine working with topology of a sphere
anyway, dont dynamesh unless you make big changes to the model that create polygon streaching, otehrwise ctr+d and keep working
there is literally no reason to ever check or change those your mesh size unless your brushesh start behaving in a weird way
then just go >geometry>deformations>unify which will scale any model to 1m x 1m x 1m
>when its starting to run slow or when you got your forms established just divide you mesh normally, ctrl+d
why would you subdivide a dynamesh'd model, at this point it'd make more sense to retopologize before continuing.
Depends on what you want to get out of it and your workflow.
Personally I'd retopo at the very end when I was 100% sure that no more changes to the volume needed to be made, forcing more retopoing.
What benefit would you get from doing it first?
If you're trying to go low poly and not worry about detailing with verts then the head this guy made would be up your alley. (see pic)
If you're trying to model a proper head with properly deforming topology then that head is not too good.
This is my first attempt at realism..The model is of my father.
I still need to make some realistic eyes, but I'm struggling. He also has no eyelashes, and the fibermesh looks shitty. I'm proud of the skin so far. I made this BPR render for an assignment, had to hand it in unfinished.
On another note, do any of you have any advice for staying motivated? I really struggle. Finishing university was an uphill battle with a retake year..
not that anon, but there is also no reason to only use the Unify button, any one method works all you're trying to accomplish is changing the scale of your subtool
it's like someone telling someone else how to carry a bag but then you tell them "there's literally no reason you should carry it like that, here lemme tell you an equally optional thing you can do (that can also be argued as "no reason to be used) that will achieve the same thing."
while we're at it, Unify doesn't really help much when trying to rescale a subtool among other subtools, and if you wanted to do that then you'd have to go through more hoops. There are a lot of ways a person can scale something within zbrush, telling them there's no reason to use one of those options is poor choice in words.
How's this look guys? The animation, anyway. Models aren't by me.
The surface of his skin need a lot of texture. Both in terms of sculpting and in color. If this were a photograph itd be a photograph of a wax statue. The shadows cast by the hair is really strong. It's oddly off putting. Light at small scales bends a lot. Enough to go around a hair and soften its shadow almost until it doesn't cast one.
the eyes are going to give you problems because not even the industries top professionals have cracked the secret to truly convincing eyes. We're all just too good at spotting imperfections, but do the best you can.
Another thing about realism is tha an image that's too perfect looks fake. A little (lot) of depth of field and grain can go a long way to making an image look real. Look at this blurred/noised/tinted version of your image. It could by a blurry photograph. It also highlights the problems. The smooth skin and really bright eyes jump out of all the post-processing and yell in your face "I'm not real!"
what does that have to do with dynamesh? It seems to shit out on its job when you pull geo out too far. Toggling it on an off seems to get it going again. After wards I can paint it however I want.
Having an uneven distribution of polygons will fuck up your texture resolution consistency if you texture in Zbrush. Also if you intend to add any kind of pattern then differences in polygon amounts will be super obvious.
Dynamesh so it's all even, then add more detail by subdividing. That way you get a much more even distribution.
Are ARE aware that Zbrush poly paint works per POLY and not per pixel, right?
You do understand that dynamesh will create an increasingly uneven mesh in terms of polygonal placement?
Do you see the context here?
My current wip of an alien (drazi from Babylon 5)
i wish valve let the cs:go community make valve approved animations and textures ( so people couldnt make unfair textures and shit )
>eg everything is white and enemys are bright red. grenades are blue and bomb is green
>i wish valve let the cs:go community make valve approved animations and textures
Uh, they already do? All the custom skins/knives you see in CSGO are community made. And some stuff has custom animations.
And when you toggle dynamesh off and on it redistribute the polies evenly.
It's a moot point because before I polypaint I use zremesher. I have no idea why it was assumed that I just not noticing the loss in resolution and painting over it. Especially when I pointed out that losing resolution on large extrusions was my problem.
>And when you toggle dynamesh off and on it redistribute the polies evenly.
You probs should of watched a tutorial on dynamesh first. You don't need to toggle it on/off, just hold CTRL and do a quick drag in empty space, it will cause a remesh.
Thanks. I figured they didnt intend you to toggle it to remesh everything, but scrubbing around 30 minute tutorial videos to find one command has never worked for me before, and i wasnt about to waste my time again.
first anime style head which does not look too much like an retarded cross eyed space alien.
Gonna learn how to do proper ears, or cover them up with hairs (nost probably the latter).
Body is next, but will take some time.
How is anyone supposed to rig the world's most common VESA arm mount?
From what I can tell, it either requires a circular joint or a double-parented joint with a double-child joint.
Using Maya by the way.
thanks I guess...
also update. I know I'm kinda slow...
one asset an artist must have is the ability to self-critique their own work; to take off any presumptions they may have on their own stuff and look at it at a critical level to see if there is any flaws.
You're never going to improve if you think your artwork is good, or you believe that you totally nailed a style down but it looks like an aye laymeow aleein. And then when other people try to tell you (albiet often times in a crude manner) that there is something wrong with your work, you turn a blind eye or completely disregard that critique because it hurt your feelings.
If you posted in this thread looking for praise then congratulations you did a good job, up to the fridge door it goes! But if you wanted some honest critiques for improvement then you should at least first try to identify the issues yourself and then ask for a second pair of eyes to point out the stuff you didn't notice.
However, as for the case of >>498532, the issues are quite obvious, so if that anon can't critically analyze his own work then he must be extremely blind.
>one asset an artist must have is the ability to self-critique their own work
but that never works, anon. Look at recent pixar movies for proof. Nobody can give an honest crit there. It's like i literally went and watched a bunch of their recent shit and the story doesnt even exist, it's all just a tech demo for prman or some shit. It's like the Order:1776 but for movies, and somehow marketed towards impressionable children
Look, my feelings aren't hurt, i am able to listen and comprehend critique, i think i'll have a pair of functionable eyes and a brain, but i stared at this face for the last hours while working on it and i don't seem to find a glaring obvious Issue (at least not with the eyes) .
So either i lost my ability to self-critique, or you just aren't precice enough with your critique.
Did you intentionally define the obliques? That shit ain't attractive at all.
Really new to rigging and my rig seems mediocre at best.
Also is there a way to make the ends of the gloves collide with the arms or will I have to add bones for that and do it manually?
Really happy that I was able to get some definition around her stomach and back muscles. C&c would be appreciated. Head is a place holder, of course.
not sure about how to do it in blender, but in maya you can make another joint and parent it to the last twist joint on your arm (the parent of the wrist). Then you can orient constrain it with ~50% or less weight to the wrist so that this particular bone only follows half the rotation value of the wrist. Then you can skin the back of the glove to this so that it still moves with the wrist but not as much.
You guys ever feel like you made a horrible choice?
Made the rig a bit fancy, haven't applied it to the right hand, but watch the back part of the left glove.
Updated, added right glove bones and hand animated those physics too.
Also >SILKY SMOOTH< 120FPS.
this is my first time ever on /3/ and after going through this thread, I just wanted you all to know that you sound like self-entitled pieces of shit who I would never want to work with professionally