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When you 3D print something, how do you make simple mechanics

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Thread replies: 42
Thread images: 7

When you 3D print something, how do you make simple mechanics work, such as a sliding door?

Do you simply leave a tiny gap in the 3D model so that the door is not attached to the rest and just print as is?
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3d printers are a meme
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>>494003
Individual parts, then assemble.
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>>494005
wow just like real life :OOOOOOOOOOOO
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>>494005

So you can't simply print it with some space, so that it's already assembled when printed?
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>>494009

I guess you can with a good one that costs as much as a full sized car or more, but not with those cheap plastic sausage poop-machines.
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>>494003

>leave a tiny gap

And then how does the printer solve that? You'd need a support mesh that can be removed either by dissolving it or pulling it out.

I'm sure expensive printers CAN, but realistically you won't have access to that.
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>>494012

What kind of expensive are we talking about? big SLS machines, or maybe good quality FDM would be enoug?
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>>494003
Well you can print a functional-ish ball bearing with even the cheapest 3d printer if its calibrated/modded well enough. The cheapest 3d printers have a resolution of around 40 microns and the printers in the 1.2k - 3k range generally have a 10 micron resolution. The likely solution would be to print small supports for the door while it prints and then break them or cut them out with a hobby knife if you can afterwards. I suggest looking up 3d printing ball bearings on youtube for further explanation.

>>494005
>>494007
This is wrong

>>494011
>>494012
UPS and several other stores are available to 3d print parts off of stl files and so you can probably find someone to 3d print that has a good machine if you google hard enough.

>>494017
I will probably be getting a 3d printer for hobby use in a few months that will be around 2k. In my research I've found a 1.2k 3d printer that didn't look too bad and would have a 10 micron print resolution but has a lower print volume. This really depends on the size of your model and the material you want/need it to be printed to.
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>>494017
I used to work at a place that used a $20k+ printer for prototyping and this thing used wax to actually support holes and so on. Later on the wax is melted out in an oven at a low temperature.
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>>494004

I'm in love with mine, even the PLA is strong as fuck and I've been using it to make parts for work as well as myself.
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Why not just print in pieces and construct it yourself?
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>>494202
>20k plus
They might as well have bought a milling machine
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>>494003
has anyone ever made a weapon with one of these. It'd be a cool way to make weapons that the gov't doesn't know about. Like a rail gun or high power magnetic projectile launcher.
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>>494221

Shapeways has the Asscreed blades, and the liberator plans are on the net don't know about how strong they are, but with the right material its indeed possible.
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>>494202
This is called lost wax investment casting.
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>>494011
This is wrong. You can use hobby printers, you just need to get creative with your fittings. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:925556

>>494012
Dissolving filament like PVA, though that would require a dual extrusion setup. About a $100 upgrade.

>>494003
Generally, FDM is used for prototyping and large pieces. You don't really print anything < 100 microns because it takes way too long with them.
SLA is a different method used for models with extreme resolution, about 20 microns or so.

You can check the 3dpg on diy if you're curious. It's mostly used as a support thread though.
>>>/diy/874920
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>>494262
no it's not, they don't cast anything. The wax is there instead of support structures.
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>>494218
Except a milling machine can't into internal mechanism.
But 3D printers can.
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>>494307
wtf 4chan, that's not the whole webm...
The end result was the whole point!
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>>494309
>>494307
sexy
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>>494307
exactly. You can see the melt-out process at the end there.
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>>494192
>>494266

OP here. I was planning on printing with a gap of 1mm between separate parts, so that should be more than enough for even a cheap 3D printer to pull off, right?
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>>494546
That's plenty. 0.2mm spacing is what is used by slicers to snap off vertical supports, I would imagine 0.4mm is all you need.
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>>494555
Clarification: a 0.3mm-0.4mm space between horizontal layers is all you need. Vertical spaces can probably be even smaller.
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>want to buy a 3D printer
>M3D Micro is $350. is supposedly good but small
>Tiko 3D is $179. It isn't out yet but looks promising. no idea when it'll be available for non-backers or if the price will go up.
>Peachy Printer is only $100 needs to be assembled and you need to buy the containers separately. don't know when that's coming out either


not really sure what I should do. Should I get the micro, wait for the Tiko, or find something else? any other budget printers I should look into?
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>>494766
Tiko hardware is sketchy as fuck. They held an AMA on Reddit and withheld a lot of information.

What do you want it for? How handy are you and how much are you willing to spend? Relative resolution for FDM on a small scale is pretty terrible but has better mechanical properties. SLA would be better for /3/ models.
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>>494771
>Tiko hardware is sketchy as fuck. They held an AMA on Reddit and withheld a lot of information.
Yeah I saw that. they were also pretty rude and defensive, too.

>What do you want it for?
basically just printing out characters that I've made in Maya and Blender. I may use it for making useful prints should the need arise.

>How handy are you?
pretty handy I guess. I built my computer but I don't know if I'd be able to put together a reprap if that's what you're asking. I don't really know what building one would entail, but i guess if a certain reprap is easy enough I could give it a shot.

>How much are you willing to spend?
at the very most I'd like to spend no more than 500. Ideally 400 or less, but if I need to spend a little more than that than I will.

>Relative resolution for FDM on a small scale is pretty terrible but has better mechanical properties.
Yeah I've noticed the resolution. I could always sand down my prints if I need to.

>SLA would be better for /3/ models.
Also true, but aside from the ibox nano, which only prints up to 1.57" x 0.79" x 3.54", I haven't been able to find one anywhere near my budget.
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>>494780
If you're comfortable with computer hardware, FDM kits aren't that different. Prusa i3 kits are meant to be the cheapest and can be had for about $300 or so. I can't vouch for any kits personally but a quick look in the /diy/ archive tells me the kit from http://www.replikeo.com/ sounds decent and the print dimensions are twice as big as the Micro's.

Word of the wise, obviously a kit will be more work than a consumer printer and isn't for everyone. However, if you do consider one:
Avoid acrylic frames
get 1.75 mm filament and a small nozzle size
Heated borosilicate glass is the best bed material
At least 2 40mm cooling fans are mandatory


SLA is another beast entirely. The resolutions are superior to FDM printers but consumer versions cost an arm and a leg and the resin is quite expensive, about $50-$100/liter I believe (though prints need not be solid, thankfully). Unfortunately, as SLA printers are less prevalent, kits and information are virtually nonexistent. However, the concept is rather simple - the printer consists of a DLP projector, a basin of resin, and a moving platform along one axis. Here is one example http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-high-resolution-3D-DLP-printer-3D-printer/?ALLSTEPS
Keep in mind that you just need the projector mounted and pointing at the basin, it would work just as well with wood or even pointing upwards. A cabinet is also required to prevent external light from curing your expensive resin.
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>>494792
I just built my own SLA the other night. If you go down this route, please read the msda of the resin you picked. This shit is toxic to the skin. It's not as clean to work with, so depending on how your projector is set up, you may want to also look into properly protecting it from accidents. If you want help with SLA printers, sign up at buildyourownSLA.com
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>>494009
Do you think the door will just magicly float in between or something
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>>494792
>If you're comfortable with computer hardware, FDM kits aren't that different. Prusa i3 kits are meant to be the cheapest and can be had for about $300 or so. I can't vouch for any kits personally but a quick look in the /diy/ archive tells me the kit from http://www.replikeo.com/ sounds decent and the print dimensions are twice as big as the Micro's.
The replikeo is 300 for a dual extruder and 250 for a single. that's actually a great deal, but the resolution is only 100 microns. is there a noticeable difference between 50 microns and 100?

>Word of the wise, obviously a kit will be more work than a consumer printer and isn't for everyone.
That makes sense. What kind of work is needed aside from cleaning the nozzle and calibrating?

>However, if you do consider one:
>Avoid acrylic frames
>get 1.75 mm filament and a small nozzle size
>Heated borosilicate glass is the best bed material
>At least 2 40mm cooling fans are mandatory
Does this stuff come with the kit?

>SLA is another beast entirely. The resolutions are superior to FDM printers but consumer versions cost an arm and a leg and the resin is quite expensive, about $50-$100/liter I believe (though prints need not be solid, thankfully). Unfortunately, as SLA printers are less prevalent, kits and information are virtually nonexistent. However, the concept is rather simple - the printer consists of a DLP projector, a basin of resin, and a moving platform along one axis. Here is one example http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-high-resolution-3D-DLP-printer-3D-printer/?ALLSTEPS
>Keep in mind that you just need the projector mounted and pointing at the basin, it would work just as well with wood or even pointing upwards. A cabinet is also required to prevent external light from curing your expensive resin.
Yeah I think the price alone is gonna keep me away from SLA printers for a while.

Thank you for all the info. I'll definitely be looking into a Prusa i3.
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>>494837
>the resolution is only 100 microns. is there a noticeable difference between 50 microns and 100?
I can tell you now, you'll hardly ever want to print anything under 100 microns (0.01mm). It just takes way too damn long. The included stepsticks (stepper drivers) are the standard A4988 which have 1/16 microstepping. If you decide you want a higher resolution, you can upgrade them to something that has 1/32 or 1/64, but those are usually overkill for Cartesian printers.

>What kind of work is needed aside from cleaning the nozzle and calibrating?
First time setup will take a while. Have a drill, a level, a square, calipers, pliers, Allen wrenches, and screwdrivers handy. The config file will most likely come straight from the website and won't need much tweaking.

>Does this stuff come with the kit?
Looks like they don't come with fans and the heatbed is a PCB - which is fine, just buy 40mm fans from eBay and have some Elmer's purple gluesticks as a binder.

PLA filament is more forgiving than ABS for beginners especially if you don't have an enclosure but you can't finish it with an acetone vapor bath. I've heard of people using a very thin coat of clear epoxy though.
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>>494003
There are two types.

Some printers provide a second type of material than will dissolve in hot water, so you can fill the gap with those.

With SLS printers you can just print the gap in, as long as you leave no enclosed hollow spaces. Just shake the powder out and it'll work fine.

With FDM printers, which is the type you probably have, this is not possible. Print components separately and assemble, or print them with very thin struts holding them together which you break apart after printing.
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where can I find a model of a penis to print? I wanna make one for my friend out of ninjaflex
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>>494850
100 microns = 0.1 mm
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>>495196
>friends
What does the Ninjaflex MSDS say? You should probably coat it with food/medical grade silicone.

>>495204
Correct. Thank you.
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>>495207
>You should probably coat it with food/medical grade silicone
I'm not making a dildo. Just a dick as a joke
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>>495207

>make intentionally toxic dildos
>sell them on craigslist by the bag
>become the greatest serial killer known to man
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i wish i could get a Form 2. it seems to be the only one that doesn't show layer bands while not being 10 grand, but it's still expensive.
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>>495271
I wonder how much it costs to make 1 3d printer
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>>494766
Build one yourself.
Thread posts: 42
Thread images: 7


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