I don't see a Repair/modding general, so I guess I'll just make a thread.
So, I bought a SNES a while ago in good working condition, but after a while, I stopped playing it for a bit. Now, when I try to play a game, the game doesn't even start, but the console turns on. My brother has a spare SNES, so I tested it with the same connections and such and it worked flawlessly. For mine though, it worked twice out of the multiple times I tried to get a game to work. Anyone know what could be wrong?
This could easily be fixed by cleaning the pin connector inside the console. If you dont have the tools to take apart the console you can just open the cartridge door and look inside. There might be a build up of dust, dirt, or residue. You will need some Q-tips and some (pic related) alcohol cleaner. I got this stuff at walmart for like a dollar and it works great. Dip the Q-tips in some alcohol and gently rub the pin connectors on the inside to remove anything that may have been in there. I would also recommend cleaning the outside of the pin connector aswell as cleaning the contacts on your game carts. Put a game cart in and give it a test. If this doesn't work your 62 pin connector may be worn and need a replacement. honestly cleaning it fixes these problems most of the time. Good luck
I have the same problem OP, in both of my SNES consoles.
It's commonly called the Black Screen Of Death, cos it turns on and puts a black screen on the TV but won't go any further.
Various forums say it could be faulty RAM or other chips inside, flat cartridge batteries, or a physical fault like corrosion from that soda your brother spilt on it in 1996.
Either way, it's probably dead, like mine are.
OP here. Here's an update just in case it helps determine the actual problem.
I tried out multiple games with the following results:
>Mega Man X
Only worked twice out of 20 or so times
>Donkey Kong Country
Couldn't get it to work
>Secret of Mana
Works without a huge amount of effort
Same as DKC
Barely worked. When it did, the SNES would think I'm using a pirated version of it
>Japanese Super Mario Kart
Nintendo logo always on start up with coin noise, but doesn't go beyond that
I literally didn't see a repair/mod general when I searched the catalog and I still don't see one.
Also, what's wrong with this >>2934206 suggestion?
Cool name, dude.
I am the guy who suggested >>2934206
disregard that butthurt fag >>2934216 who was trash talking my suggestion.
I've used this method for a long time and my super nintendo that I've had since I was a kid still works like I just bought it.
Obviously your game carts are clean if they are working fine on another console. Your pin connector is the issue. I would definitely get in there and clean it up with my suggestion. Also, as >>2934360 suggested, a new toothbrush is really good because the small bristles will be able to get in deeper.
If this doesn't work it could mean that the pin connector is worn down. A game genie or a super game boy is good for checking to see if this is the issue because both of their contacts are slightly wider than a regular game cart so they are able to connect easier, even if the consoles pins are worn. IF this doesn't work it means there is a problem with the hardware inside the console and you would need to take it apart.
Like I said before, cleaning all of the connectors usually fixes most issues. Good luck fellow retro enthusiast!
The SM pirate message only comes up unwarranted when there is a dirty connection.
Now rack your brain real hard and think "what, regarding dirt, could be different between these two SNESs?"
>recently bought a "for parts" DSi on ebay
>open it and see this
>wtf are these white streaks ?!
Looks like the Li-Po battery's acid leaked all over the place to me (battery was swollen and damaged). What do you think, and how to clean that shit off ? My multimeter reads good signs of continuity though, so I might give it a shot assuming it's just corrosion and try to repair it.
I googled "how to clean battery corrosion"
Use a disposable towel to brush away any loose corrosion (white solid). Place a small amount of white vinegar into a small container such as a cup or bowl. Using a cotton swab, moisten the tip with vinegar and carefully wipe the corroded contacts. Repeat as necessary to remove all of the white residue.Jan 15, 2014
Clean the connection port and the cartridge pins with mentholated spirits. You might have to remove the case to get at it better, I don't know I've only done this with a regular Snes.
Okay, so I bought a spare toothbrush, the isopropyl alcohol and some q tips. Should I be worried about how much I use? Also, should I let it dry or let it sit a bit before testing it?
Can you solder? Cause that's the only way the old batteries are coming out. Best to solder in a battery holder to replace it with, so you don't need to take the solder iron to the cart again.
I'm ogling this dirt cheap game boy pocket on eBay with a purple smudge on the LCD.
I plan on installing a backlight, so I was wondering if this smudge is in the glass or the layer that will be replaced.
The lcd is damaged, try to find one that doesn't power on if you want a better chance at a working system.
Those are usually dirty or corroded battery springs or the seller doesn't know how to adjust the contrast on the screen.
Those usually they say it powers on but nothing comes up on the screen, sometimes they even say the sound works but no picture.
This, or pay the money for a decent one. They're not THAT expensive. I ordered a pocket kit from a site that included a cleaned pocket, backlight, pro-sound kit, and new replacement screen. It only cost 49.99, which was pretty good considering.
I didn't own any electronic contact cleaner so I've taken the battery out, pulled out the power board, and cleaned everything using Isopropyl alcohol (70°). The wifi prop is still rusted though (any trick to take rust off ?).
So I've tested the wreck again with my multimeter and continuity seems to be flowing pretty neat so I guess the components are safe. The power board is dead though since battery acid had corroded solderings and maybe the copper. It was nasty so I just assumed that it needed a replacement. I'll let you know of my further investigations on the LCDs.
My American SNES does weird shit with my crt. Not sure why. After like half an hour of playing the color will start to flicker really fast between color and black and white. Like maybe even 60/second. I used to think it was my TV, but then it occurred to me that when of flickers, I can bring the TV menu that is blue and works.
>ok SNES is fucked
It doesn't do it on any other TV ever. Playing it is a huge pissoff so that's why I got a Super Famicom. Any help/ideas?
>pic related, also posted it on another thread so you might see it there too
my guess would be a crystal oscillator is on the brink anon. They set the frequency of the video signal and if it's wrong you can get no colour/not much of a picture at all. If it is that you're in luck because they're pretty easy to replace. Try RGB and see if there is any difference.
use some white vinegar to remove the rust. apply some to the rusted area and let it sit for a few minutes so that it can break down the rust. wipe away vinegar with a cloth and if there is still some corrosion (which is normal) rub it with some aluminum foil to break it off. Repeat these steps until all of the rust is removed. Good luck, Anon!
I guess I'm gonna post here. I want to do the N64 RGB mod using the easy method.
I have one N64 in excellent condition, but it has the wrong video chip. My other one works, but is in shit condition aesthetically with pieces of plastic missing, scrapes, the reset button sticks, etc- but this one does have the correct chip (pic related).
My question is, can I simply switch the motherboards between these consoles so that I have an RGB-capable system that doesn't look like shit? I suppose maybe some of it is difficult to remove or reassemble, but there may be some other reason why I can't do this.
Got the board out. I guess what it comes down to is whether or not this controller port can be removed and replaced with the good one. It appears to be soldered on, though.