Repairs. Mods. Technical questions. Bring 'em here.
Don't forget to clean your consoles and accessories every so often. That will fix most problems with games and controllers not working. Check out this guide for help:
When I output Dreamcast via VGA blue color channel gets fucked up and a huge red line appears on top of a screen. I wonder if it's a problem with my DC or with VGABox. When I output with composite via same VGABox everything works fine.
Disable that fucking CIC. Lift that pin. It is not needed, so much so that it was removed entirely in the top-loader. Disable the CIC and enjoy the massive decrease in flashing light syndrome.
You can video mod for s-video and RGB, but composite is just fine, and NES does composite natively with any generic male to male cable.
If you get tired of the controller cutting into your flesh, get the dogbone or mod your SNES controller to work on the NES.
Got a NA SNES? Cut out those plastic tabs in the cart slot, now you can play JP games.
Get an s-video cable if you don't go component.
If your version has shitty audio, you can replace the audio hardware with a DIY that gets great sound. You can even make model 3's sound good.
If you go RGB, you can greatly improve the video quality and eliminate all jailbars by installing a new THS7314(the RGB amp used in most RGB mods for retro systems), but it requires a bit of work.
Get a modchip installed or one of those new Rhea or whatever they are called.
From what I hear the 4MB Action Replay cart is highly recommended.
Modchip that fucker. They are cheap as hell, and burning games is easy as fuck if you have proper bin+cue rips.
RGB modding is recommended, otherwise go s-video cable.
If you don't mind dropping the dosh, you can mod in FM audio support, which is supported by some of the better games on the system.
Pretty good backlight mods out there, but you should focus on getting the Pocket, as it had one of the better screens. Looks best with the backlight mod.
Replace those caps, and get the replacement LCD screen kit. Or just make it output to your TV.
All I can think of right now.
That was amazing, thank you.
Also my wife got drunk the other night and shat in my frontloader NES (don't ask) and now it seems like it's bricked.
Should I open it up and deep clean it or just consider it a sign from God to buy a NES-101?
>Also my wife got drunk the other night and shat in my frontloader NES (don't ask) and now it seems like it's bricked.
Well, that sounds shitty.
>Should I open it up and deep clean it
So you turned it on without completely cleaning it first? You might have bricked it by doing that.
Go for a 101 if you want, I'm recommend a good therapist for the wife instead.
This is now completely filled with shitty puns.
Meanwhile Imma get ready to mod this GBC, any recommendations?
AFAIK, there's a front light mod, but there's more than one supplier for this, and are slightly different front each other.
I don't know whether to think that is hot or that your wife is a piece of shit (not making a joke).
Regardless, no, that would not kill it, as long as you don't try to turn it on with shit in it. Make her clean it out, because that is fucking disgusting. Jesus.
>You can even make model 3's sound good.
The Model 3 already sounds fine, it's only problem is that it's mono audio only.
>RGB modding is recommended, otherwise go s-video cable.
If you need/want to run RGB for everything, sure, but that's one system where you really don't see an upgrade in video quality when going to RGB. S-Video is definitely suggested for sure, but RGB not so much.
Pseudo saturn is now a thing if you don't mind sacrificing a 4mb cart
The first batch of PSIO has shipped and will eventually overtake modchips as everyone's laser gradually dies.
>The first batch of PSIO
Not worth the price yet. A new PSX is $20, a new modchip is $4. PSIO is what, $150? Once either PSX's get up to $100 a unit or the price of modchips shoots through the roof, then the PSIO will be worth buying. Until then it's an overly expensive solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
>but that's one system where you really don't see an upgrade in video quality when going to RGB
I know the N64 does it's own filtering so you don't get the sharpness boost, but everyone online says RGB is the way to go for N64, so I figured they knew what they were talking about.
As I said before laser units will eventually die. In addition, you don't have to keep a huge binder full of burned CDs. It also reduces load times for games.
Also it is $150 AUD, which is $105 in U.S. dollars.
>As I said before laser units will eventually die.
So will the rest of the hardware eventually, and I repeat that a used PSX is only $20.
>In addition, you don't have to keep a huge binder full of burned CDs
Unless you are some weirdo who feels the need to have a copy of every fucking game, why would you do that in the first place? I have a spindle with 20 or so CDs, the console takes up more room than that.
>It also reduces load times for games.
Finally, a reason to pay five times the cost of the system!
I don't know why some people are pushing the PSIO so hard, it's just not cost-effective for what you get out of it. If PSX lasers broke nearly as often as Famicom Disk Systems, then I could understand it. I've been using the same PSX from '97, with burned disks, and it still works great today. It's not like I've treated this system gently either. It's even been dropped a few times. Still works 100%.
I'll repeat myself again, the PSIO is an overly expensive solution to a problem that doesn't exist yet.
Laser units die much more rapidly than solid state electronics. I'm not sure if you are being facetious...
The point being if you want to play a bunch of different games, you will eventually end up with a binder full of CDs.
I'm not pushing it hard, I've just owned two or three PSXes in my lifetime and all ended up with dead lasers after a couple years. I understand the PSIO might not be your thing, but for me I'm willing to pay an $80 premium to not have to burn/swap/store discs, worry about my laser dying and having reduced loading times.
>Laser units die much more rapidly than solid state electronics.
No argument here, but you are the only person I've heard of who has their PSX lasers die after a few years. People with 1xxx models having issues, sure. I see people posting that their PSX laser finally died after years and years of use, but not anyone saying they are having issues similar to yours. I think your living conditions have something to do with it to be honest.
>The point being if you want to play a bunch of different games, you will eventually end up with a binder full of CDs.
This can be an issue if you are living in a shoebox, but if you are living in a shoebox you probably don't have the money to blow on the PSIO in the first place.
>I'm not pushing it hard, ... , but for me I'm willing to pay an $80 premium to not have to burn/swap/store discs, worry about my laser dying and having reduced loading times.
Fair enough. I would consider the PSIO to be worth the price if it was the non-invasive mod it was originally advertised as. Something I can just plug into the port on the back and play bin+cue's with? Sign my ass up! Would have been like a flashcart for the PSX, if it was doable. As it is, it's like a flashcart you have to solder in, which is kinda lame.
I thought you couldn't run PSX games off the hard drive since the hard drive used the same hardware that was used for PSX games, and you had to use a memory card loader or something to run them from burned discs? Dunno, been a while since I messed with it.
I brought my Famicom out of the closet yesterday since I hadn't played it in close to a year, and just picked up a new game but it was doing the dreaded solid color screens. I figured it was just because I've let it sit for a while and dust and shit got in it somehow so I broke out the isopropyl and cleaned it but it's still not working at all. Is there something else that could be wrong? Everything I can find says that it's simply the contact problem with dirt but if that wasn't the problem I don't know what it...
Ok, so I have a Sega Saturn issue. Its a model 1. It doesnt want to read games properly. I'll pop the disc in, boot up the console, but then it'll say that the disc tray is empty. Even more confusing is that only a few games have this issue. Some games work, some dont. Ive tried both regular and import games. Anyone know what might be causing the saturn to be picky with games? Any help is appreciated!
That seems to imply the problem with the games themselves. Do any of the games that don't work have audio tracks you can play on the Saturn? It could also be that the laser is starting to weaken, so it has more trouble with games with only minor defects.
Hold the discs under a light and tilt it around to find any scratches and smudges. Radial scratches don't usually have much of an effect, but angular scratches can kill a disc. To clean smudges, use a lint-free cloth like you would use to clean glasses (or a cotton t-shirt if that's all you have, just be gentle) and remember to always wipe radially from the inside of the disc to the edge.
>Disable that fucking CIC. Lift that pin. It is not needed, so much so that it was removed entirely in the top-loader.
It serves an actual purpose in a frontloader.
Due to how the connector works, the CIC is a good indicator of how well your game is contacting. Disabling it just because you don't want to maintain your cart connector is just going to end with you getting frustrated when your game freezes up, the graphics garble, or even your saves corrupt.
I know it's not retro but I'm not sure where else to ask.
I have a gameboy micro and the L button seems to stop registering randomly and the button feels mushy as opposed to R. any idea on fixing it?
Sounds like it's worn out or very dirty. The button is a micro switch so it should be replaceable if you can find one the same size and are good with fixing things.
You could also try cleaning it with contact cleaner like deoxit if you can take it apart and get some in the button.
This might be the thread I'm looking for. I have two PAL SNES consoles (I'm an Ausfag) and a bunch of games. Most games do not work, only "simple" games or release titles tend to work. Two I can remember working are F-Zero and Street Fighter 2.
The timer in F-Zero is way slow. I can race in an emulator and time on a stopwatch and it's fairly accurate. On both of these consoles I'll do a lap in say 2:10 real time which will report 2:45 console time.
More complex games like Lufia won't start. These other games just show a black screen. My TV detects there is a signal, and if I hit Reset then a brief jump appears like you'd expect, but no game or sound.
I've bought new carts off eBay (SF2 is such a purchase) and one of the consoles is also an eBay purchase but suffers the same problem.
I've read this is likely to be an uncorrectable hardware fault in the console, there's a chip or something which wears out.
Any ideas or at least confirmation?
I've got a model 1 Genesis where it's constantly sending a signal from the second controller port as if I were holding down the right button all day.
This persists regardless of if a controller is plugged in. This makes it impossible to play games where input from player 2 can be used for player 1.
I've looked around but I'm still not too sure what I can do about this. Any suggestions?
the chip handling controllers is fucked. Depending on motherboard revision, it can be a small independent 80 pin chip or be integrated in a larger chip.
Had this happen with 2p stuck to left back then, which sucked since my favorite game Thunder Force 4 for some reason allows 2p control.
slow timer on PAL console is normal, if the game hasn't been properly ported.
As for games not working, are you trying to use a japanese game on a PAL console ?
Super Famicom game carts have the same shape as PAL Super Nintendo games, but they have region protection, unlike US Super Nintendo which has different shape but is identical electrically with the Super Famicom. You need an adapter, but then some games (mostly big names) have additional protection that will also defeat the adapter.
Hah, what a coincidence. I got this Genesis not long ago and have only recently been getting into retro consoles again. I got Thunder Force 4 not long ago and it's the game that made me notice this problem.
I've been wanting to get into shmups and it's been killing me that I can't play this.
No, I'm using a PAL console with PAL games, all Australian retail, no imports or region hacks.
I feel like the slowness is just a symptom, that only happens on "simple" games which I suspect don't exercise the console hardware particularly hard.
The vast majority of games (I've got 20 or so) just show a black screen and do nothing.
Moved as in the controller is physically moved? Your wire is shot, probably right at the point where it enters the controller.
You can just cut out the broken part and reattach it to the board.
Compatibility list for PS2PSXe isn't that great. (http://psx-scene.com/forums/f292/ps2psxe-compatibility-game-list-105342/)
Most people use the PSXLAUNCHER elf to swap discs to play PS1 games.
PS2PSXe is the thing you want to use to try to load PS1 games from HDD. I woudln't bother with USB since it is laggy as fuck.
I found a good deal on a PSone portable screen (scph-131) online and snagged it.
Does anyone know if it uses the same 7.5v adapter that the standalone PSone uses, or does it require a separate, more powerful adapter?
I couldn't find out online, looking up anything about the adapter for the PSone screen just results in people bitching about the DC adapter being impossible to find.
Nevermind, I managed to find a .pdf of the screen's manual. It recommends using the bundled power adapter (scph-113) over the stock psone adapter (scph-121).
I figure I'll just get the proper adapter to play it safe
that I understand, I was just wondering if it required a different power cable while using the screen attachment
>take apart n64 to clean it up
>put top part of the shell in a pan with some water and a little bit of rubbing alcohol
>come back 15 minutes later
>audible "what in the fuck"
>take it out, sticky as fuck
>rinse it off with cold water while it melts in my hands
>dry it off, look at bottle of rubbing alcohol
I got a cool xxxxtreme CS:GO arctic skin meltjob n64
Fucking kill me please.
There's a few methods.
1.) Shave your head, don't do a perfect job, make it look scraggly. Pretend to be a young Jason Vorhees and then nail him with his machete when he's distracted.
2.) Throw on a frumpy sweater and a blonde wig, pretend to be Jason's mother. Try to light him on fire.
3.) Close the fucking camp down already. Why the fuck anyone would want to go to Camp Mostlikelygonnadie, I have no idea, but stop them from getting themselves killed and just shut the fucker down.
4.) If all else fails, attempt to hire an android with fake tits.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-NES-card-turn-FC-host-using-72-feet-turn-60-feet-converter-in-high/1069576571.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.113.ryF9oa&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_9,searchweb201644_2_10001_10002_10005_10006_10003_10004_62,searchweb201560_2,searchweb1451318400_6151 or something similar
Is there any chance of GBA backlight kits becoming readily available again or am I completely fucked? Not sure I want to disembowel a perfectly good AGS-101, especially because I have very little modding experience.
>GBA backlight kits
you can overpay on ebay but they're like 150 bucks.
to be honest, i don't like my modded OG GBA with the 101 screen, HORRIBLE HORRIBLE ghosting.
i hate the clamshell gba though, tiny and shitty.
i'll probably end up putting the 101 screen and the guts from the 101 i ripped it from into a gb pocket or DMG shell. i just need time to do it.
figured as much. can't stand the clamshell gba either now I have fully grown man hands. hypothetically though, couldn't somebody manufacture them if the demand was there?
original GB kits like this exist so couldn't GBA kids be manufactured similarly?
Not that guy, but I just visited the link and saw the answer clearly. Its right in the middle of the first page.
Just go buy another PSX. If you can't handle reading, you are just going to break your PSX anyways.
As long as you are feeding the AC adapter the right power, then you should be fine. Don't go feeding 220V on an adapter spec'd for 110V, and so on. Google says the PAL, JP, and NA all output the same two voltages DC, so as long as you are giving it the AC input it expects, it should work.
I've got some nasty rainbow banding on my Model 1 Genesis. I've heard that can be caused by the internals starting to age.
Is this a relatively easy fix, or am I just better off shelling out for another Model 1?
I can't afford, nor really want a 32x.
Depends on how easy you think replacing all the caps is. If you know how to solder, it's a pretty simple fix. If not, then $20 for a new Genesis is the better option. Even if you do replace all the caps, you will still have some minor rainbow banding with composite from the genesis. If you don't plan on using a Sega CD either, and your TV supports it, you could go with the s-video mod. I've heard great things about that.
I have a problem with my top loader NES Where it basically needs to "warm up". When I first turn it on, these horizontal lines go down the screen and the audio is just static. Slowly over the course of about 5 to 10 minutes horizontal lines slowly disappear and the regular game audio kicks in. Eventually everything is normal and it's fine but I don't know what's causing this necessary warm up period. Pic related is my console and what it looks like when I first turn it on. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as this only recently statue occurring and I'd like to reverse it.
the more recent the motherboard is, the less rainbow banding appears. Try to find a non-HDG that isn't a VA7 (bad sound on these)
S-Video and RGB get rid of it because they're able to transport a higher quality signal. For Genesis you need to do a fairly simple mod. The "downside" is that you won't get those transparency tricks because of that increased quality. A worthy trade for 95% of games.
I've read reports that in some cases, recapping made rainbowing worse.
I have a grape purple n64 controller that was chewed on at some point in two places, can I stretch the insulation between chews after removing the wire inside and use it as heat shrink. or will it not contract with heat?
>I've read reports that in some cases, recapping made rainbowing worse.
Entirely possible, since the main culprit of the issue is actually the video chip having some poor composite encoding. Most of the time it will fix it, if the degrading caps is causing it to be more noticeable. Of course, there are those times where it just gets horrible like you mentioned.
>Also, I do have a CD; why would an S-video mod affect that?
As is my understanding, due to the way the CD handles video or deals with the genesis's hardware, you can s-vid mod the genesis but not the CD, or any CD games won't be able to get the benefits or something. Mind you, I haven't actually s-modded a genesis myself, this is just what I'm reading on various forums.
Open it up and post pics.
Unless cables are usually made with heat-shrink tubing, I would say no. If you want to repair the cable, just use some proper heat-shrink tubing. It is cheap as fuck.
>the video chip having some poor composite encoding.
that's a part of it (model 2 with with the CXA1645 fare better at composite), other part comes from trace design (and probably some better minor components fine tuning).
>due to the way the CD handles video or deals with the genesis's hardware, you can s-vid mod the genesis but not the CD, or any CD games won't be able to get the benefits or something.
That makes absolutely no sense; Everything coming in from the CD portion is handled by the Genesis video hardware and sent of to the encoder as unamplified RGB, which is where you perform the S-Video mod.
An S-Video mod will increase the visual fidelity of ANYTHING being run through the Genesis; The exception to this would be for stuff 32x related, since it has its own encoder that handles video output, and thus needing its own S-Video mod.
here it is after I was done. I turned the lights off so you can really see the illumination. The only difficult part was removing the reflective and polarized layers. they were really stuck on the damn thing and left some adhesive that was also a bitch to remove. Especially trying to work around the damn ribbon cables. Still a great success and well worth the time.