These threads are for the civil discussion of CRT displays (TVs and monitors) as used for retro video games and systems allowed by the board rules in the current sticky (>>1392415). Subtopics *directly* related to this main topic are welcome.
Cheers! /crt/ go go go!
With the amount of arguing and confusion that's been going on in the last few threads I really thing that huge pastebin someone made a while back should be part of the sticky.
Does anyone still have that saved?
If anyone does, I can try to give it a quick run through when I get home later. I haven't had the chance to participate in the threads as much as I used to so I'm not sure I've seen the most recent revision of it.
He's tiny and he's old, but he's my CRT. I can't even find evidence of his existence online, either.
It also has a faulty... Starter? Where it can take a few presses to get it fully going. I'm worried that it's going to bite the dust soon...
I want a new CRT, but I'm attached to this one plus I've never seen a monitor-sized small CRT that has shit like RGB which would make replacing this thing worth it.
Faulty starter? Do you mean the power button is loose and hard to press because the padding behind it is shit-tier like a lot of small TV's I know?
If it's something else and it still functions fine when it does power on, I'd say you might just need to replace a small component in the IC.
Might be a power regulation issue. Unfortunately I'm not a hardware specialist and can only guess at the problem. But if you really are attached you could analyze the circuitry for any faulty components or just take it in for repairs.
Yeah I have no idea what causes the inconsistency. Maybe after failing to turn it on once, it builds up enough potential energy in the circuitry to more easily power it in full swing the next or next few times.
Dunno, just talking out of my ass.
What's the state of electronic components these days as opposed to '80's and '90's?
Do they tend to last longer with better build quality these days, or is it the opposite because of China?
Well at least in terms of caps most shit is better quality now after the whole motherboard debacle around 2001 or whatever. I think that the caps are usually what goes out on old electronics, and those are of better quality from what I know.
Cool. I assume ion buildup is the main problem with inefficient capacitors in a manner similar to degrading life in batteries. The TV sitting idly unused for a long time contributes to this as well I assume.
Depending on the type of capacitor there are several reasons for them to fail, from oxidization to simply drying up, though that generally takes several decades.
Bad capacitors are just badly made and will probably explode over time.
Pic related. It's Satan.
Natural capacitor aging has more to do with temperature than the amount of usage.
The images in the link don't work but it's still a good and interesting read.
Wait, nm. I see the molecules of the electrolytes in use have oxygen bonds. So then the primary catalyst in degradation is heat since it drives chemical change to occur between electrolyte molecules to where molecules break their chemical bonds and reform into waste products.
Also, aren't there any new solid electrolytic wonder materials that won't boil and explode with excessive charge or temperature or generally be a hazard or problem in any way?
Watch out. The inside of a CRT screen is filled with a differently pressured gas which can implode upon a breach of the seal. It functions very similar to a vacuum tube.
>Pic related. It's Satan.
How so? Electrolytic capacitors can hold much more power than any other type of capacitors while being much smaller which is required in integrated circuits.
The only time when then explode is when you apply much higher current than nominal, otherwise if they fail they just create a little amount of smoke and they are gone.
Of course they have a lot of disadvantages, but if you compare them to any other type of capacitors they still win in most cases.
TL:DR - They're good
>hold much more power than other type of capacitors
There's the powder keg right there. Sure, if you overload them in a minimal amount they'll probably only pop and release their pressure. But when you do have a massive power regulation failure get ready for Fourth of July to happen early.
But seriously, are there any new applied wonder materials that can do a better job these days?
Clearly you aren't familiar with Fuhjyyu.
If you ever see a Fuhjyyu capacitor in anything there's a 100% chance that it's the first thing to die in that device.
They also tend to fail rather violently. The vents have a tendency not to open properly so they just get bigger and bigger until they blow their load all over the damn place.
TL;DR Electrolytic is not the worst capacitor type. Fuhjyyu is just the worst capacitor manufacturer.
On a somewhat related note, why are they not called condensers in english anymore? This annoys me to no end since in my native language they're called condensers.
Sounds legit to me, as long as it can output 240p. Actually, do you know if the Wii mode can take advantage of the Wii U's superior hardware? Because then you'd actually be able to emulate the GBA worth a shit.
>do you know if the Wii mode can take advantage of the Wii U's superior hardware?
No it does not; It has the same limitations and power as a normal Wii.
I haven't looked into it, but I was under the assumption that the Wii U wasn't capable of 240p.
>can Wii mode take advantage of the Wii U?
Yes it can, fail0verflow (creators of the Homebrew channel) was able to activate two extra cores in Wii mode and while they still run only at Wiis' clock speed you have more of them
>Cores 1 and 2 boot with MSR[IP]=1, thus at the high vectors. The old Wii PPC EXI bootstub hardware is still present and controls the instructions read from there, so just perform the normal EXI bootstub configuration sequence from the Starbuck. This is not needed for Core 0, which already has IP=0 by the time you gain control. Just flipping the two boot bits in SCR is enough to get the two other cores up without doing anything else, although coherency will probably be broken/disabled. Also, keep in mind that this trick gets you access to all 3 cores but they still run at the old Wii speed (729MHz). Speeding up the Espresso probably requires full access to Wii U mode.
An anon posted this pic in the last thread () and I had to save it.
I think I'm in love with this set. If that anon is still here (or if anyone else recognizes it) could you identify the model for me? I absolutely must have one.
It's mame using some 'CRT Emulation' settings, or whatever you want to call them.
I nabbed my settings from some guy on a shump forum, you should be able to google up some settings. I do run my scanline brightness at about half what he does though, since it tends to wash stuff out a bit otherwise.
32" Sony Trinitron KV-32S42 (june 2000)
One of my friends was getting rid of it gave it to me for free. I dont blame him. Fucker is over 200 lbs with no lift spots (the tv not him)
Man, I just scoured looking for info on them. My current theory is that they're all in the hands of enthusiasts or something to that extent. Which is sad because I'd easily shell out ~$700 for a work of art like that
>Face it, the only reason for watching old anime on a CRT is to make yourself feel like you're in the 90s again
Not it isn't you dumbfuck. Why do we talk about CRTs here? It's not about "Muh 90s Nostalgia, Muh Scanlines" like all those hipsters on /vr/ are thinking, it's because of the correlation of various advantages of CRTs: Smoother motion + better colors + better contrasts + better response time. The 3 first advantages are still present when watching animes on a CRT display. As the motion quality is better on a CRT, the animation appear smoother. That's easy to understand.
Also, why do you guys ALWAY comes up with the "Muh 90s"?
I do believe the smoother animation statement. The activated phosphor from the previous frame still has a minimal ghost-like effect (which can be large on shit monitors) which helps transition the effect of animation between frames.
The ghosting effect is present on LCDs but not on CRT TVs (they don't have highly persistent phosphor compared to terminal monitors), when you scroll on a CRT TV, you don't see little details becoming fuzzy, while I still see them even on modern LCD monitors.
The reason is different: it's the flickering pictures. The flickers make the animation appear smoother as it's easier for our brain to interpret the motion, while Sample & Hold displays appear unnatural when in motion, thus making it difficult for our brain to interpret. Take a look at pic related.
There are some rare LCD models that can imitate a flickering display, and animations on these appear smoother too.
Nope, the phosphors take a fraction of a second to cool, which produces ghosting. It's "smooth" I guess in the same sense the repainting of Ecce Homo is more smooth than the original...
There is no ghosting effect on a CRT that doesn't have persistent phosphor (like the green or amber ones found in terminals). What you think is ghosting effect are artifacts caused by an interlaced video signal. The top of a frame has already disappeared when the next frame start to be displayed.
Phosphor decay depends on the build quality. Some are worse and some are better. On average, it's negligible and is far far cleaner an image than the LCD ghosting through slow switching times and sample and hold.
I do find that anime that is on hand painted cels look better on CRT. After the transition to computer colored cels it loses some of that advantage, imo.
I remember an old IBM 5155 Portable with an amber CRT at my college that did have really bad ghosting. Not much of a problem though when everything is text.
Saw one of these at a thrift store yesterday and thought of you, /vr/.
All built-in TV out jacks on laptops and desktop graphics cards go through TV encoders of varying quality. Some are fine, some are not, but practically all of them (if not literally all of them) can't output at arbitrary resolutions, just preset common ones like 480i for SD out and 720p/1080i for HD out. 240p and the like are out of the question due to those hardware locks, so you wouldn't be getting native res on most games.
I finally got a 15khz RGB monitor, and it's a 35"! Mitsubishi XC 3717c
What impresses me is that it looks best with brightness: 50, contrast: 50. And even composite shows strong scanlines.
What risks do I run by cranking my computer monitor to 120hz? This monitor won't display it if you set it too high. I was able to lower the res then set to 120. If I'm able to display it am I fine or am I gonna eventually go nvidia on everything?
I know we have a trinitron circle jerk here.
What do we consider the BVM of PC monitors?
Got this Dell from work but thinking about swapping it with an Intergraph 21sd107a.
Gonna test if the Dell can do 120hz first though.
Hoping someone in here can help me out. Lately I've been trying to put together a mame cabinet, and am stuck on the monitor.
Ultimately I'd like to play in native 15khz, but I've also heard of upscaling that to 31khz with minimal issues. I can't find that thread atm though.
If say, I wanted a monitor atleast 27" for doing this with a mame cab via VGA, what are some of my options?
>that profeel when you don't have a 60hz 1920x1080 monitor to use for even modern PC games
Oh damn it can do 85hz at 1920x1080.
>2,042 x 1,152 at 80 Hz
Was anyone using this res for anything in the late 90's? Don't even think PC games were rendering that high back then.
No it's not identical, on a PC CRT, the picture wouldn't have these kind of vertical lines you can see in pic related, it would appear flatter. That's the main difference between an emulator displayed on a 31kHz monitor and a real console or emulator displaying on a 15kHz monitor. The pixels on a 31kHz one appear flatter.
I was referring to the sharpness.
As for the "vertical lines", that would be due to the tighter dot pitch on most later-era PC CRTs. The phosphors are much closer together than on most 15KHz displays, so things look closer to how they would on an LCD. I think only a BVM with its 800 lines would rival them on that front.
That said, the lines ARE still there on Trinitron-derived PC CRTs. They're just only visible at an extreme close up, as in pic related.
Question about Windows seeing a Plug n Play monitor. If I don't have drivers and Windows is identifying my monitor as plug n play is the max resolution just a generic resolution or can my monitor actually do it?
Depends on how you connected the monitor.
Usually the monitor stores, and relays to your computer, basic information about resolutions and such via EDID.
HDMI and a few other connection standards include EDID, as for VGA it can be there but it's not exactly standardized. Component, composite and just plain old RGBHV via BNC or something similar doesn't supply EDID at all due to the lack of data pins.
Fun fact: Most monitor drivers actually restrict you more than anything since they tend to limit the available display modes to what has been tested to be safe and functional by the manufacturer.
Whether or not Windows displays the correct information depends on whether it got the EDID at all and if it did, can it decode it properly.
In case you want to check if this information is indeed correct you should be able to find the max resolution of your monitor in its manual. Along with common resolution/refresh rate combinations.
If your monitor wasn't manufactured by a cheap and cheerful chinese slave then it should also list the maximum video bandwidth that your monitor allows. This can be used to theoretically calculate the maximum refresh rates for each resolutions. Though newer displays tend to have some safe limits built-in just so you don't accidentally fuck up anything, since not all refresh rate/res combinations have been tested.
>>Consumption: 270 W
You forgot the part that it is 37" big. That's GIGANTIC for a 4:3 CRT. Modern ~40 inch displays do tend to eat about that much as well. Though probably not the more recent led backlight LCD screens.
Anyone interested in a JVC AV-27BP4?
27", 2 AV inputs, 1 AV output, S-video, coax, all that jazz. Power button's a bit busted in but that's what remotes are for, right?
There's gotta be at least one anon in or near Daytona Beach who'll take it.
I recently picked up a Trinitron KV-20S40 with a manufacture date of Jan 1999. Has composite only, but that's fine for me. Would really have liked S-Video but it was only $3.
Only thing I've noticed is that the scanlines are VERY faint. Barely visible at all when running my NES through it. My 2600 shows them a bit better going through RF. Is this normal? Growing up we only had shadow mask TVs and I can't recall ever seeing scanlines. The picture on this Trinitron is rather nice though.
You don't have any pic related just sitting around?
Saw this at Goodwill today...Had no desire to get it, but it's a generic PVM of some sort. Couldn't find a brand or anything...The label on the front just says "Multimedia Monitor" in a font that reminded me of elementary school...It did have plenty of inputs, though.
Should i get this off craigslist?
I already have a KV-27FS100 but the geometry isn't perfect and i can't fix it in service mode.
What are you guys' solution for watching classic anime in a CRT TV?
I'm currently using a softmodded PS2 with SMS but it has some limitations like only working with xvid/mp3 and getting the aspect ratio slightly wrong.
tfw i bought this for 360 and it worked for half an hour and then the picture started stretching and started jumping from the bottom of the screen to the top. It's probably nothing serious since this was in the manual but it's useless right now, and the bouncing gets worse.
Trying to see what refresh rates I can push out of this monitor but windows has this option grayed out. What do I do?
i've posted this on /g/, but this is probably a more suitable board
so anyway, here's a tv i picked up a few days ago for $5 and put together a vga>scart cable for, so it's hanging off my computer as a second monitor
tweaked the focus pot on the flyback today, which helped with scanline visibility and reducing bleed
pretty happy with it so far, i find it hard to get into older games i never had the chance to play knowing i'm just using an emulator on a computer, running the games on a real tv at their real resolutions with a controller (albiet an xbox s controller, but that doesn't detract much since i'm not looking at it) feels nicer (that and low res pixel art never really looks good upscaled on an lcd)
Use the "Custom resolutions" thingie in your graphics cards configuration utility.
For a further bit of control, ATI cards have special drivers which allow all kinds of fuckery.
What's your favorite ATI driver, /vr/? Mine's Omega
3DFX cards have several tools available for this. KoolSmoky's is pretty much the best me thinks.
Most NVidia stuffs is for really old gpu. If you can't get it to work from the NVidia control panel thingie then you're pretty much out of luck.
This is my CRT. I use a wii with an RGB SCART cable for emulation and I think it looks great.
What do you guys think?
It might die a bit prematurely if you're running it a lot, and i mean a lot, outside the specs it's been tested for.
If it's a newer CRT monitor, then it should tell you if you just went past the absolute maximum limits.
But usually it's fairly safe. Check the manual for suggested refresh rate/resolution combos.
Hey guys, I'm using retroarch on Wii and for some reason when I switch down into 240p resolutions the picture starts quivering slightly, and scanlines seem less noticeable than usual. This doesn't seem to happen at 640x480i, anyone know what could be causing it?
nvm, got to the bottom of it pretty quickly, it's odd though.
I don't like having to reach around the back of my TV to plug and unplug stuff so I use the front A/V in ports on a VCR/DVD player combo. For some reason the image quivers when the player is set to DVD mode, but not on VCR mode.
Hey /crt/, I've seen this discussed a few times and there's a lot of misinformation/confusion floating around on the web about it, so I just figured why not clarify,
For those of you wanting to use a PS2 with RGB out over the component cables to play PSX games or whatever else, it does NOT output sync on green. I've read some people saying that it doesn't do that unless the content is 480p or above in some places (and I don't know how that would work since I thought 480p and RGB don't mix, but there you go?), but whatever the case, I tried it with my PVM and the screen was scrambled for 480i/240p sources (and the monitor was indeed set to SoG).
So it seems as though you'll need to use a component cable with an additional composite lead to do that, and a sync stripper if necessary.
I hope that clears things up for people wondering about PS2 RGB out into a monitor.
i've read it did SoG when using the official vga cable for use with ps2 linux, though it's been years since i last checked
my guess is 'regular' 15khz RGB output (as opposed to 31khz, vga-spec RGB) just usese the composite video pin for sync, as is the usual way
>I thought 480p and RGB don't mix
they do, at higher horizontal frequencies than tv's can handle, though
also, don't forget that 'component' and 'rgb' are very different things, component isn't comprised of R,G,B signals, but rather Y,Pb,Pr, which is an entirely different standard and entirely different colorspace
The only problem is that most of the component cables I've seen that have a composite output on them are crappy multi-system 3rd party ones. Are there any brands of cables like that that are good? It's not something I need because I have both SCART and component cables that work with my PS2 and PVM, but it certainly would help others.
ah yep, that'd make sense
i've just recently become aware of the world of RGB
i suppose then it'd have to do SoG for RGB, no? the official ps2 component cables don't have a composite connector as well
>>1780365 here, I did indeed set the PS2 to output RGB over the cables in the bios, and set my monitor to take sync on green. It was scrambled, as I noted. Unless my monitor is messed up and the SoG setting isn't working properly, it uses separate sync. So >>1780467 The cable pinout is probably made to utilize it, but the PS2 doesn't send any signal through the composite in YPbPr mode, is my guess. Most cables probably simply forgo a composite lead altogether, because usually when people use component cables they use it for... Well, component.
This is the scheme to connect PS2 through RGB SCART, pins as follows:
2 audio right
4 audio left
6 composite sync
9 blue video
10 +5V DC
11 red video
12 green video
I wasn't using a SCART cable, which I assume should work fine? I was talking about using a component cable and setting the component video out to RGB.
I did get a properly colored picture, so it CAN work that way... It just needs sync. The common misconception is that sync is carried on the green line just as it is when the bios is set to component. I just wanted to clarify that that is untrue, for what it's worth to you all.
shouldn't, it's all the same pixels, just sent to the display in a different way (which is done by seperate hardware, the GS/gpu doesn't give two shits about how the picture gets to the tv)
crt's naturally use RGB in the end, so using RGB directly should equal minimum lag (through SCART or an internal modification), since anything else will need to be processed to some degree to turn it back into RGB
If I had the technical experience and means with which to do so, I would try it right now. I get the feeling it might not work all that well, though; maybe produce a twitchy picture?
It would be awfully convenient if it'd work. No SCART cable or adapters, no third party universal cables or sync strippers, just a regular component cable with some added wire from green to csync, yeah?
Tell me what exactly did you connect and where. PS2 is natively capable of Component out, there is no need to use adapters, strippers etc.
If you have a steady hand and some money you can go and buy yourself a Matrix infinity modchip, it has those features as well.
Be aware that there is a shitload of clones, if it doesn't look like pic related, then it's fake. Most of the time you aren't able to change anything in settings since it can't save anything (and I heard that it sometimes renders chip useless)
Hey /vr/, currently in my local area on craigslist there are two Sony PVM monitors for sale for around $60
Which out of the two do you guys recommend?
I'm working on a CRT set up myself.
Found my N64 and some other old consoles, I really missed playing them and emulation just lacks a lot of what I want.
Really excited for it, the rest of my gaming is done via PC and it will be nice to have a console counterpart again.
I don't own a CRT yet, any quality brands I should be looking for?
My PS2's already modded with a clone modchip bought from somewhere in Africa, it's written Matrix 2 ( not Matrix Infinity 2 ). I don't know how to dissassemble it and I don't have the tools to do so either. And nearly everything software related like using SwapMagic or FMCB didn't work.
That picture is actually from Google, my wiring doesn't look as good as that one but it's still good enough. As for how he did it, I can imagine that he has already installed alot of them so he knows how long those cables have to be.
Yes, that's a common problem, with a real MI FMCB works flawlessly. Did you try to disable it before? MIs are disabled by holding START right after you start the console and then reseting it, after that FMCB should work.
If you have time you can try to use that SCART setup which I posted earlier, R, G and B cables are clearly seen and for sync use composite.
btw. those high-frequency capacitors are there because PS2 somehow outputs really dark image without them
If I heard correctly, then SoG only works with PS2 Linux and nowhere else, there's the problem.
I got one 2 years back, it was brand new for 30€ but you are correct, it's really hard to find an original one nowadays after the FBI modchip raid in circa 2007.
Also, would anyone mind making another thread somewhere else as PS2 is still not /vr/ related and I don't want to bloat CRT thread with modifications.
I have a question regarding PAL and NTSC
If NTSC is 480 lines and PAL is 576, do PAL TVs have a higher resolution (dot pitch) than NTSC TVs?
And how does this work for old consoles? Is is image positioned in the center? I can't imagine PAL consoles outputting a larger rendered image than NTSC consoles.
>Also, would anyone mind making another thread somewhere else as PS2 is still not /vr/ related and I don't want to bloat CRT thread with modifications.
My bad, I've been trying to use RGB to play PSX games on my PS2 (my original PS kicked the bucket) and I'd seen the RGB out issue discussed so I thought the sync might be useful information. Didn't mean to derail this so much.
Most of the time? Yes, PAL CRTs have higher dot pitch but sometimes it's just an NTSC display and everything else gets lost in overscan. As for retro vidya, devs either rework that game for higher res or just add black lines on top and on the bottom so the visible area is the same resolution and the rest is just black (this is the most frequent scenario)
The problem isn't your question about RGB, more or less I'm afraid of ban if I would continue to talk about PS2 there.
>If NTSC is 480 lines and PAL is 576
Yeah, that's perfectly true for BT.601.
But the real stuff isn't that simple.
>do PAL TVs have a higher resolution (dot pitch) than NTSC TVs?
Maybe. I remember that i read a datasheet about a actual CRT which featured a higher resolution for PAL.
>And how does this work for old consoles?
SNES can switch between 224 and 239 lines. So a PAL version might be adjusted to use 239 lines instead of 224.
>Is is image positioned in the center?
Yes, but a slight displacement to the left by about 6-8 SNES pixels is common when RGB SCART is used.
>I can't imagine PAL consoles outputting a larger rendered image than NTSC consoles.
N64 does, and that's very true for Zelda OoT.
>The problem isn't your question about RGB, more or less I'm afraid of ban if I would continue to talk about PS2 there.
not him, but he did say he intends to use it to play psx games
is emulation (be it on a pc, wii, xbox, w/e) allowed? if so, there's no reason not allow ps2 for the purpose of psx games, right?
>soldering directly to the ground plane
>Most of the time you aren't able to change anything in settings since it can't save anything (and I heard that it sometimes renders chip useless)
I've got a shitty Modbo from Eurasia and the config menu is broken, but the chip still does what it needs to (boots CD-Rs like pressed discs).
When you start getting into early framebuffer-based consoles (PS1, Saturn, N64) there's typically not enough memory for a full-screen PAL display. The games have to be pretty much designed from the beginning with the larger screen area in mind.
(Consoles using sprite/tile engines don't have this problem, as the scroll planes are already larger than the screen and the sprites are only stored for one line at a time.)
I use my ps3 with PS3 Media Server and component cables.
The only way I can think for watching in actual 240p on my PVM is using a PC with powerstrip/crtemudriver/soft15khz/linux/ArcadeVGA.
you could perhaps test the continuity between the rgb ground pins and the shell ground
or try applying 1-3v to pin 16 (this is how scart devices tell the tv to switch to RGB mode), in the case of my tv, if i have a composite image displayed in av mode, and apply power to pin 16, the image at least goes black (expecting rgb to supply a picture, and repurposing composite video for a sync source)
This is the TV I use now, Phillips 27" 27PT543S37A (what a shitty name)
I really like it because it has Component Video in on the back as well as Audio and Video OUT so I can hook up to a stereo, which i do.
only problem is that there isnt enough S-video ports and the tv makes this god-awful high pitched shrieking. worse than any CRT i've had.
What are you wii + crt owners using for output? I thought about trying to mod mine to work with RGB, but I keep reading that NTSC wiis fuck with the RGB output. Should I find a Component to RGB converter? I'm using an Amiga monitor.
If you're using a 480i tv, then RGB is your best shot.
If your tv can do 480p or more then component is your best shot.
I like how my ps2 looks on my pvm with the Scart cables more than how it looks on my Trinitron TV with component though.
I think its a matter of taste.
RGB and Component are essentially equal in quality.
>NTSC wiis fuck with the RGB output
NTSC Wiis have RGB disabled, and I believe component is sent along the same lines.
Softmodding and region changing it to PAL will supposedly restore RGB functionality; I haven't taken such steps myself however.
i'm not sure about how well YPrPb covers RGB colorspace, but with component you inevitably will be converting an RGB image to YPrPb, then back inside the tv (picture tubes are naturally RGB)
so there's processing overhead, not really sure about visual difference, even if there is one i don't know if it will be visible
... alright, wikipedia suggests there may be a technical different in quality, whether it's noticable will probably depend on the quality of the tv's signal processing hardware
>Signals that use YPBPR offer enough separation that no color multiplexing is needed, so the quality of the extracted image is nearly identical to the signal before encoding. S-Video and composite video mix the signals together by means of electronic multiplexing; however, more often than not the signal is degraded at the display end as the display is not able to separate the signals completely. It is possible for their multiplexed counterparts to interfere with each other (see dot crawl).
Yes, the NTSC Wii consoles have RGB "disabled" and component enabled instead but a simple software switch will enable RGB instead. I've done it on my Wii console for my PVMs as one does not accept component.
Use something that region switches the console. I switched it to European and plugged it in via SCART. It will look really flickery at first but all you need to do is go to the system options and change it to PAL60 and it will be fine. I don't remember what the app was called for it atm.
I remember having one of those growing up. My parents got it in '99 or maybe 2000 I think? Anyway I remember it being pretty nice. Neat that it has component too (can't remember my dad ever using it on ours though).
Just got a PVM-14N6U for $45, did I do gud?
And now I wait for it to arrive...
its on composite and playing off the ps2 alpha collection [retro collections are /vr/ right ? ]
i pick 60hz mode and its black and white.
so if i get a scart cable for my ps2 itll play 60hz?
On the topic of PS2, can anyone recommend me a good RGB SCART cable?
Apparently most of the ones on sale are chinese knockoffs that only carry component.
I've tried googling and all I can find is this one from a weird german site;
And while it's apparently better than even the original 1st party SCART cables, with international shipping it'll cost ~$90.
The first CRT I had long ago stopped working one day...That was about 10 years ago...I spent countless hours playing all of my Sega consoles on that thing.
The CRT that I bought (brand new) 7 years ago sucked...Only had composite with mono sound, but I used that until I found a Trini at Goodwill a little under a year ago.
Have one from 2002 since my old one from 1989 stopped working and I wasn't bothered enough to fix it back then. It already has run little bit under 28k hours (yes, I wrote it correctly) but the picture is still great.
You can try to search for PS3 RGB SCART, those ones are also compatible with PS2, but keep in mind that if you want to get a cheap one, even if it has RGB pins connected right, they don't usually have connected ground and +3V on pin 16. In that case just refer to this scheme and fix it by yourself - >>1780935
>they don't usually have connected ground and +3V on pin 16.
how cheap can they get? the AVMULTI connector supplies 5v, they'd only need a single resistor to get a suitable voltage for pin16 (i know because i did this with my custom vga>scart cable, i simply hooked up a usb cable with a resistor to 16)
A quick explanation for those wanting to use 31kHz SoG from a PS2,
It only works in very few games. One piece of software it doesn't work for is your PS2's BIOS. No game automatically boots into the proper mode first time, this means that you either have to set your games into the proper mode blind or beforehand and hope it saves the setting.
Certain modchips allow you to force 31kHz SOG for all games, but it's buggy and shit.
My 16" Trinitron widescreen.
whats the word on the samsung GXE? I remember playing Berserker for Dreamcast on it at my local funcoland back in the day. I can find them on Ebay, would it be a good cheap alternative to a Sony PVM?
It's designed like a toy, it's a '90s Samsung (but I repeat myself), and its best input is composite. 3 strikes for me. Even when they were brand new I knew better.
Anyway I know they have nostalgic value for some.
Well I just dug out my old ViewSonic monitor (A70f+), and I have to say that even though it's not the best monitor out there and I can't get it scanning at lower resolutions, the differences in colors, black levels, refresh rate, and especially input lag are astounding. I'm tempted to go find the old beige Gateway 2000 monitor that I have laying around, which I believe is actually a rebadged Sony.
This thread is awesome! So, I need some model advice. I'm currently on a journey to find a NTSC CRT monitor that directly supports RGB, and is equal or above 26 inches. Here's my current shopping list:
- NEC XM37 (Really want one of these)
32 Inch Widescreen
- BVM-D32E1WU (My holy grail, but fuck it's like 2 grand with 60k hours clocked on ebay)
Anyone know any other good ones I can add to the list?
tried hooking one of these up to my computer and well, it's not working out well
first of all since it has a pretty weird output (DA-15), I put a converter on it that makes it vga, then put a converter on that which makes it DVI that connects to gpu (gtx 560ti). it detects the monitor but the screen on it gets really freaky, like its tighter in the middle and the screen scrolls up or down rapidly
I'm guessing it's because I converted to many times and should probably try to find a DA-15-to-DVI converter but just wanted to know if you guys have any ideas
Oh, same guy. Old school gaming too (SNES / Genesis). Not looking for something "HD" for that. The BVMs are an exception, because while they can play PS2 really well, they still do old content like a champ.
Its sync rates aren't set properly, or its looking for compo Ent and you're giving it rgb.
Its probably not the connectors except they let you do something that might not be possible.
It's a nice little TV, and holy shit does it get loud, but it's just isn't a good stand in for a PVM if you're looking for quality.
Don't know if there's something messed up inside of mine, but the speakers seem to be causing interference with the picture. The geometry has also gone to hell in the past year and half(since having got the PVM). This could be from having it sitting on top for so long. I should look into fixing that,
If you can find one for cheap, it's a neat little thing to have. Easy to move around as well.
Have an older picture of Super Metroid on it.
It'd probably be overkill for that. The G90 has good enough tubes to output FHD resolution, better off getting something slightly lower end and saving a buttload of cash.
G90s and cene9s are just for staking in massively expensive home theater setups.
>The Sony PVM20L2 or PVM20MU are also very good options.
Too small. My room layout doesn't allow me to sit close enough to really enjoy it. I've seen the PVM20MU though... breathtaking.
>Mitsubishi Megaview "XC3717C"
Oh nice, fantastic one. I'll add to my list
Sorry, not interested in a projector. Want a good ol' screen up front.
>can you recommend somewhat cheap CRT projector that can display 2048x1536 at 85Hz and also works with 15 kHz signal?
It doesn't exist anon. "Somewhat cheap" isn't compatible with everything else you've stated.
meh I don't care, just want to get this thing working
I've never been on a board with grammar nazis like vr before. Other anons correct my posts, usually without comment
. They're just so ocd they need that corrected.
Even on old shit fest message boards with registered users and rivalries and shit.
And I was pretty surprised he couldn't correct missing a single letter.
just tried connecting vga conversion to mobo, no luck, in fact worse since now nothing at all showed up on the screen. gonna try again later though in case I just didn't plug it in correctly, my computer is placed in a way that connecting and disconnecting cables in the back is really inconvenient
You just need to sync to something it understands. Mac monitors were mostly VGA compatible but like you noticed they used DA-15. I can guarantee you as a retro Mac user back in the day that it's not looking for component or digital RGB.
Just try different scanrates on your video adapters.
>Is this normal? Growing up we only had shadow mask TVs and I can't recall ever seeing scanlines.
Hey anon, for what it's worth this late, some CRTs do minimize scanlines. I have a set that masks them so well that I thought I couldn't see them because of the connection somehow (it only takes composite), but the same signal into my PVM produces very pronounced scanlines.
They are just slightly visible on the other one if you look closely, but they may as well not be there. A set like that is probably advantageous to people who dislike scanlines and I actually thought it handled the composite signal remarkably well (pretty sharp, no dot crawl as I recall, slight color bleeding but not terrible), but if you're looking for those in particular you'll need a different TV.
not seeing anything about scanrates, is refresh rate the same thing? I tried changing it before from 85hz (default, had the problems I listed in my first post) to 60hz, but then it didn't show anything at all
Newer systems don't have the option to go as low as 640x480, however you can try that resolution if you find an old application/game and set it with checkbox in compatibility tab in properties.
>press customize button
>640x480 at 60hz
this is on my lcd monitor though but still I'm sure it'll be about the same on the crt otherwise I'll report back I guess
thanks for the help anon
So I bought a Sony Trinitron KV29X5E a few weeks ago, and when I plug in my PS2 I get this weird bending in the top right corner. This happens with both my PS2s, but doesn't seem to happen with any other console. It's connected with composite over SCART; I haven't tried another cable, but it worked fine with my PS3 with the same cable. I haven't messed with the settings a lot, mostly because I have no idea what anything does, but I'll continue doing that in the meantime.
Also, the picture in the image does not cover the whole screen, it leaves a few inches black on the top. I'll post another image that does cover the whole screen.
This is all the way to the top. What I'd mostly like to know is if this is something I can fix, either through settings in the TV or in some other way, or if it's just some part of my equipment that's bad (TV was only like $8, so not really a big loss if it's shit).
Try turning off automatic format under the AV menu. Just a complete hunch. It happens with all games, right? Not just P4?
Only way I could rule out it being a PS2 issue is if you plugged in a different PS2, but that seems quite unlikely.
Maybe I should have clarified, that's not a part of the problem, I just used that screenshot to show that it does the same this when the picture isn't all the way to the top, and also that it's more pronounced then.
I actually get strange picture deformations on my PS2 also, anon. The upper right corner bends inward a bit and the bottom curves up slightly on my PVM. I tried more than one game, so I assume it's gotta be my PS2 because I also gave my N64 a shot and it doesn't have that problem.
Weirdly, they both send a perfectly fine signal into my cheap consumer set. Nothing like that happens.
Oh also, the curving up at the bottom is in addition to not reaching the bottom completely, similar to how yours doesn't reach the top. And I was using composite as well! Maybe it's the composite signal on a trinny?
Ok, I have two CRTs, one is is 31khz with really obvious scanlines when running at 240p, the other one is 15kHz with barely visible scanlines (pic related). I prefer the look of the 15kHz one. I don't know much about the different kinds of CRTs out there so I wanna know, how come one of them has more obvious scanlines than the other? Sorry if it's a stupid question.
remember that vga outputs RGBHV (R,G,B,hsync,vsync), and getting component from that requires some kind of active converter
and you will need something that can output ~15khz hsync, from what i can tell, modern radeon cards are the best bet
i swapped my aging 250GTS to an HD7850 recently partly for this reason, i've had no trouble getting 240p/480i and any other mode my tv can handle from it with the foss radeon driver in linux
the pc monitor likely has a far smaller dot pitch between phosphors on the color mask, while the tv has a larger dot pitch
the larger pitch on the tv means you get more visible vertical gaps between pixels that are close to a primary color (that is, only use 1/3 of each pixel)
it also means it's more likely for colors to bleed into nearby scanlines
you can help make the scanlines more pronounced on the tv by keeping brightness down and adjusting the tubes' focus
pic related, my tv, you can clearly see the large dot pitch, where each scanline only passes through 1-2 pixels/phosphors
in addition to be able to play emulated games on a tv in their native res, i can also play pc games on it, too
is ut'99 retro enough for /vr/? i'm still new here
the photo makes it look like it's too dark, but the contrast is good enough on the tv, being a crt, that it's all quite visible in real life
I just got most of my consoles working with RGB. I feel like showing this bad boy off. Anybody got any requests?
anyone know of a similar tool to winmodelines for linux
it feels weird to use a windows tool in wine that happens to make xf86-compatible modelines in linux
at least i've got my genesis modeline almost the right geometry now
alright same guy from yesterday, I did this >>1783834 and tried all the different scanrates for 640x480. It's definitely better than before but still not usable, the image is clearer but it keeps scrolling up like that, just not as rapidly. The "best" one (clearest image and least rapid scrolling) would be 75hz but 73hz 70hz and 60hz were also slight improvements.
Any ideas what to do now?
I have a CRT which states it can take a PAL60 signal. However NTSC consoles don't play in colour. Is this because there is a different carrier frequency for the colour or is there nothing I can do to fix it?
If you plug the SCART it means that it uses RGB, so no color encoding. The fact that you have a rolling image is weird though. That means that it doesn't sync the refresh rate to the incoming video signal.
I'm gonna take some pictures. The thing is that I want to use the setup for streaming and since I live in Europe not all the TVs can display in 60hz.
Problem is that SCART doesn't work well with capture cards.
See here is with composite. Using a capture card, you actually capture the signal from the console and tv separately.
So since the capture feed is separate you play on b/w on tv and it's in colour on computer.
and then I got SCART fixed...just needed to blow on contacts...Now gotta work out how i'm gonna get this onto my computer!
mm, must be using the RGB pins, skips over the difference in color encoding between PAL/NTSC
is this from a super famicom? i don't know much about them, but it might output both composite and RGB at the same time
so you could connect composite to your computer, while RGB to the tv
Yeah, that was wishful thinking. Yeah it's RGB but actually has pins as opposed to SCART. It wouldn't carry sound anyway, would need component cables.
I have a SCART to YUV converter, but I don't have component cables to test it with and I don't know if my capture cards will even accept the signal.
Well, the problem is that the way the capture device works is that there is obviously video then L-R audio. So I use splitters into those and for one set of 3 is from the console to capture and the other set of 3 goes from capture to tv.
Now I don't know how rgb to tv would even work...I mean the device reads colour on my computer but is there even a cable which is SCART but ends in RCA like pic related. I don't even know if it would work...because even though computer image is in colour would the cables carry the signal from the console into the device and then the tv in colour - if that makes sense?
when you use rgb with scart, the tv gets these:
R, G, B, composite sync (likely the same wire as composite video, the yellow one, only in this case used just for sync), audio left, audio right
if you can get access to the composite video, audio left and audio right pins, you could run those to the pc to capture composite video (+ audio)
if the tv has composite *out*, that might work, if it provides the composite video given to it via scart, you could also modify the scart connector to provide outputs for them, or if a scart splitter is a thing, you could use that, too
or even something like component? i'm gonna draw a picture of this in a second.
excuse the shit drawing, but something like that?
I just got given a 'broken' CRT off my sister. I gave it a whirl today and its colours are all borked, like it needs a degaussing - only worse.
When I put it on AV you can see clearly, it goes blue/red/green/blue from the bottom of the screen to the top.
Before I throw it out, is there a magic way of fixing it you know about?
I hope whoever has any doesn't just toss them out or let them end up in a thrift store junk bin. I can't handle the thought of non-technical plebs eying over it smudging the screen; or worse, for some little imp child fucking with it or mishandling it in a way that it falls to the ground and breaks. And I cringe at how often thrift store employees try to separate devices from their included accessories and cables for an extra sell. That's just wrong. So very very wrong.
You may be able to find a late 90's Trinitron with component inputs, just before they switched over to the FD/WEGA design. Even that will be semi flat(barrel shaped) though.
Other than that, just look for 20in+ curved tubes and and check the back. I doubt anything smaller would have been deemed a high enough priority to warrant component inputs.
Does anyone know if this outputs RGB or composite? It claims to have the same RGB pins, but the cable would be composite. I am confused.
I can vaguely see the scanlines in the pic the anon provided. And seeing how a normal viewing distance is as far or further away, I'd say to expect as much as the pic when thinking about buying one as shown in pic.
I would have to go see a doctor if I had that set up since I would have an erection for longer than 4 hours.
Although if I'm being honest you could use some better speakers. Otherwise I'm jelly man.
After weeks of pilgrimage I finally found and bought a PVM.
Thank you, /vr/, for everything you lot have done. You've shown me the light.
you're just trying to play the console while recording something, right?
do you care much about the recorded quality?
pic is what you need to do to get rgb to the tv and composite to the computer
note that all of those lines are what's provided via scart when you use rgb
check if the tv has composite or even scart out, and use something like >>1786348 to connect to the pc (assuming it's scart>composite, not composite>scart... scart is a two-way standard, with 'in' and 'out' configurations)
What are the advantages of that specific CRT?
Anyone on /vr/ have any experience with the brand / tv?
I bought the set at a garage sale for 5 dollars and thought I would give it a shot. I have my systems hooked up with s video, (besides the Sega) with an after market universal cords. I really enjoy the picture I get for it, but wanted your opinion on the brand.
I'd be willing to bet that it is a Sylvania in name only; manufactured by a 3rd party. Not that it's a bad thing. I could also be completely wrong.
Any pics of its glorious glowing phosphors in action?
Okay, so, I want to run emulators from my laptop on my video monitor. Should I be using soft15khz to use a 15khz signal? I have an ATI Radeon X1200 video card, which I think is compatible...I'm just not sure if this is the way to go with this.
14" tube of a lower quality than the 2 others (typically, a consumer trinitron will have either 1 or 2 as forth digit, my sony TV is KV-14M1B for example).
14" tube with high end tube, and the same model I own. Breddy gud tube.
14" tube with a tube of the same quality as 1444 QM, but produced in the period after the 1444 QM.
Many thanks! How did you find all this? So 1454 QM best choice then? How do you hook up all your consoles to it via RGB? With something like this?
The different numbers determine how useful the unit is, and getting the wrong one will mean the monitor will bottleneck your elaborate setup with total irrelevance and while you ask why the monitor is not working well others will tell you how everything else in your setup is irrelevant and wrong to the glory of the relevance and correctness of the monitor you chose.
In seriousness, probably some minor technical differences.
>How did you find all this?
Some other anon posted a few thread ago the way to decode model numbers.
>So 1454 QM best choice then?
Check if it has the least number of hours, and what kind of inputs it has.
>How do you hook up all your consoles to it via RGB?
If it has BNC plugs, then through BNC, if it has scart, then through SCART, and if it has this RGB db25 port, well it's through RGB db25. What you posted is only useful if the monitor have BNC inputs for RGB. Check some photos of the back of the various models and identify the RGB input port(s) first.
- check which has fewest hours
- check which inputs are available
>back of the 1454 QM
Sorry for shitty quality
The other anon posted something like:
In PVM 14 4 4 QM, PVM is the line (PVM, BVM, KV, KX), 14 is the size (14" and others), the first 4 is the period (4, 5, M, etc...) and the second the quality of the tube, and the QM is a regional code if I recall.
Yeah, so it has RGB through BNC. Don't forget to ask for photos of the monitor working, it might be useful.
Anyone know anything about this one? Found it on a craigslist type site in my city. Neither model number nor size is specified.
Judging from the older red green and blue dot Trinitron logo and general aesthetic I would place it from the mid to late 80s. It looks a bit similar to my 25XBR, although that doesn't have the big side-mounted speakers.
Anyway, I would try to find out more about it. You could always get in touch with the seller about model number and inputs and stuff like that.
Yo this is sort of off-topic but I've seen it discussed in the past so who cares.
I picked up a laserdisc player recently, no discs to test it with yet. Anyway it seems fine other than that the tray sometimes will immediately retract after opening (I've heard this is a common issue so it's not a big deal since it doesn't do it constantly).
Anyway I recently read that LD players can potentially mess up the discs while they're playing them, anyone know anything else about this? Would really hate to destroy any discs since they don't make them anymore.
Mac display guy again >>1783250
I tried making customized resolutions with the nVidia control panel changing the refresh rate from everything between 70hz to 85hz but still no luck. the best one I found was either 76 or 77hz but then it still scrolls up. tried several between 60 and 70hz as well
This is getting pretty frustrating. Any help is appreciated
But keep in mind that lasers can have destructive properties as well; as when burning data on to optical media.
In any case, couldn't a LD disc be read by a player and its output stored digitally on a computer? Even though laser discs store analog data, you could convert analog data into digital data with minimal loss if using a high bitrate and large variable size for storing signal variance.
Curiously, how would storing video in analog mode work? How many possible ways of displaying a video signal are there? How would display resolution be affected?
does anyone know of a way to get pcsx2 to leave overscan in?, it seems to be cropping some of the image, since elements are very close to the edges of the screen
this is fine on pc monitors, but not on an actual tv
The laser isn't stronger over the time, it's weaker like all optical devices.
There are LDs used as digital data storage, I think it's WORM drives.
As for the way video is stored in a Laserdisc, it's a composite signal which sines are cut down (look at pic related, 6000 hours in MS Paint). For sound, it's either uncompressed PCM audio like >>1788952 says, or in the pre-digital audio ones, it's FM modulated analog sound that is stored just like the composite signal, which sound better than FM radio as there is no interference at all.
Laser Discs are large, heavy, and fragile. Great care must be taken in storage to prevent warpage, jacket damage, and deterioration of the disc's aluminum coating. With even the best of care, a few poorly manufactured discs will loose their aluminum reflective qualities over time, resulting in increased video noise. This problem is aggravated by many publishers who refuse to take defective discs once they have "gone out of print".
Laser Rot is the appearance of video and audio artifacts during the playback of Laserdiscs, and their progressive worsening over time. It is most commonly attributed to oxidation in the aluminum layers by poor quality adhesives used to bond the disc halves together. Single-sided video discs did not appear to suffer from laser rot while double-sided discs did. The name Laser Rot is a misnomer; the disc degradation does not involve the player's laser.
Laser rot was indicated by the appearance of multi-colored speckles appearing in the video output of a laserdisc during playback. The speckles increased in volume and frequency as the disc continued to degrade. Much of the early production run of MCA DiscoVision Discs had severe laser rot. Many DiscoVision titles have ceased to function since their pressings in the late 1970s. Also, in the 1990s, LaserDiscs manufactured by Sony's DADC plant in Terre Haute, Indiana were plagued by laser rot.
Oh, so the intensity of the sine wave is capped at a value between 0 and <= x value, while still otherwise carrying analog data? Is it because too intense a signal would blind someone?
It displays RGB which is the purest picture you'll get.Also it will display it at either 240 or 480p and has great scanlines. It has other outputs but it's the best visual show for your eyes when you play /vr/. NEC xm29 looks very good and seems slightly better than the PVM but idk I've only seen videos of the two.
Well I also meant period then. A period is how long it takes to complete a wave cycle. Period is the appropriate term to use when referring to a time-based measurement.
Wavelength is simply the distance covered by a period. I simply used it because of the inclusion of the term 'wave' which I feel semantically represents a wave better than its other related measurements.
So I've got a Sony KX-14CP1 and its all very nice and dandy, Fantastic picture. However when there's a mostly white image on screen, it goes strange. It doesn't seem to be able to display it and the picture can start rolling.
This has to be a really white image though, like looking straight down in first person at the floor in the temple of time in OOT.
Any ideas what could be causing this? Should I be concerned?
Well, I still don't see why you say it looks like digital as it's just a physical representation of the cropped waves.
There, a better diagram. What I was trying to say before was the old diagram had waves with curves where you couldn't make out whether the clamped wave was not curved or not because of the nature of the hand drawing, and making the lengths of the wave (thus the curvature) more pronounced would make it easier to tell even on something hand-drawn. :)
Much cheaper to make, much cheaper to distribute and easier for the consumer.
Just think of the weight and size of a box containing a 32 inch widescreen crt and then think of how many boxed LCD's the same size could fit in that space and how much lighter they'd be.
Flatter, lighter, uses direct photon manipulation from a lit back-plane rather than using a near-vacuum tube filled with hazardous gas that shoots electricity at a phosphor plane to emit photons.
Also I think the latest tech dealing with CRTs (if it'll gain traction) is a 'flat' screen tube with no magnetic guiding of electrons due to the back plane full of an array of electron guns. So essentially a digital CRT with a native resolution.
lcd's are better at pretty much everything *but* image quality
lighter, thinner, cheaper to make, uses less power
there's a couple image-related advantages, though;
sharper image, no geometry issues
>Also I think the latest tech dealing with CRTs (if it'll gain traction) is a 'flat' screen tube with no magnetic guiding of electrons due to the back plane full of an array of electron guns. So essentially a digital CRT with a native resolution.
is SED not dead? i thought it was dead
i hope it isn't though, it's like the best of everything
Hell, if we lived in a Star Trek era, we could probably have three RGB lasers in the back of a TV housing being guided to screen coordinates based on gravitational manipulation. A photonic version of a CRT.
Or more simply if we could accurately manipulate light with dynamic refractors that change refraction values based on electric (or otherwise) pulses. That might be an easier path than gravity manipulation. But before that they'll enable the full replacement of electronic circuitry (logic gates) with photonic counterparts.
Okay, that's what I wanted to know. Like if I needed to have at least one other normal CRT for those types of games instead of just the SED, but yeah, looks like SEDs aren't commercial anyway, so that's not important, I guess.
Do you realize how do they even work? After you pull the trigger of a light gun the whole screen gets black and only a small square gets white, that's what the light gun is searching for, if it hits white it means that you hit something and console reacts. The problem with modern LCDs and why they don't work is the lag, screen can't show the square fast enough and therefore you will miss every time, not because of the nonexistant position of electron beam
not the same poster
and yea, hundreds would be a pretty tiny display
a 1080p image is over 2 megapickles, and sed uses an emitter per *subpixel*, so that's over 6 million emitters for a 1080p display
Given how closely the electron guns can be next to each other in this case, I'd say (I'm not a physicist) that at nanoscale distances you might have electromagnetic interference (repellant) between electrons if all were fired at once. So it'd pretty much have to be one-at-a-time unless they were pretty separated out or you fired every other few electron guns in an interval pattern.
Yeah but I figured the wiki was something to make you think otherwise regardless..
In all seriousness though, considering that wafers with billions of transistors (smaller than any other electronic component) are measured in centimeters, and a CPU isn't 100% covered with transistors, and if any wealthy people can afford TVs measured in meters, then we're close to that trillion mark. I'm not so sure about getting phosphors that small though.
Well yeah, I found a 72cm Grundig TV with a flat glass front on eBay Kleinanzeigen (the closest thing we've got to craigslist) for 5 Euro. Going to get it on sunday.
I still think it will look weird to have 2 TVs next to each other in the living room. But now I will be able to retrogame on the one TV while having my PC on the other one with a wireless keyboard and mouse thingy.
Is 72cm big enough? My flatscreen is 32"
For a time analog computers beat digital computers in speed. Digital computers won out because we could do complex calculations on them like encrypting messages critical for war-time.
But still. There's that 'what-if' we maintained analog computers to their digital cousin counterparts.
I would watch out if this is a modern Grundig, which is actually made by BEKO.
These suck very badly, at build quality (prone to get dry solder joints) and displaying retro games (forces interlacing).
It is a Grundig Sydney Flat SE 7241 Dolby, thought it would be nice to have a fuckhuge 100Hz CRT.
First thing I've found on my shirts mobile phone internet was a catalogue where its in from 2002/3
I've seen this happen to some TV's in the past. Maybe the current delivering a white color signal is just intense enough in heat to mess with some component solder joints inside? Have no real idea.
Maybe a specific color value (an intense white) causes it to go on the fritz. Have you considered the console as the source of the problem, if not the signal?
A very safe way would be to use a resistor. Something between 56-220ohms might do the job.
I think i found the TV that you're going to get.
I actually repaired one of them, I resoldered so goddamn much and replaced some blown resistors.
"A piece of shit" is what i said loudly when i finished the repairs.
> 14 inch with model 137 xvm
Up above an anon described how to decode the model number of the PVM. The first two digits apparantly signify the dimensions of the screen. So either your model number is actually 14xx or you actually have a 13 inch screen, and got jipped m8.
There is no color limitation on CRTs that aren't monochrome. So yes, 64-bit colors will work on a CRT (we didn't had to change our monitors when we came from 256 to 16 million colors).
That's comforting. Is there an audacity for 128 bit colors and beyond?
Also, I'm curious. What light waves does a phosphor emit? Is it just the primary colors or does it have a more natural effect from particle interaction? As in, would we also see ultra violet or infrared emitted from CRTs?
>As in, would we also see ultra violet or infrared emitted
Well, they use leaded glass in order to block/cut down x-ray emission, so I suppose ultra violet wouldn't be too much of a stretch.
Nevermind. Found the answer to my question after thinking about it more. What good does truly analog expression of a limited color gamut do if you only get a variance of like 10 different wavelengths (in an extreme case)? By the same token, if you had a projection screen that could show you the full spectrum (which even the Sun can't do), and only had 1 bit to express color with, that'd be just as disappointing as the other case. Obviously there's middle ground. I'm generally assuming though that the CAD-minded monitors have engineers optimizing for better color and high pixel pitch and other things.
You guys got me to find a SNES in my mess and plug in my glorious CRT.
PVM 2150 master race.
I also have a smaller one in my bedroom, but it currently only serves me as a bedside table.
>dem glowing buttons
It's like you're voyaging through space with nothing but glorious vidya to keep you company..and perhaps your robot friends.
SCART was only "necessary" because there wasn't a single TV standard in Europe. PAL/SECAM, AM/FM audio, audio subcarrier frequency, channel frequencies, etc. The only constant was the 15.75KHz/50Hz scan rate, so they had to do "raw" RGB video and separate audio. In the US you had not only a single standard field rate but also a single color encoding, single color/audio subcarrier frequency, and single set of channel frequencies. "Channel 3" would work, with sound and color, anywhere in the US (and most of the rest of North America as well).
You might have to adjust the actual overscan on your tv. If it's an LCD/Plasma, check the settings in the menu. If it's a CRT you'll need to get into the service mode which you'll have to google for your specific brand/model.
Because they got really big in panel size and people wanted big arse screens. Also people are suckers for form over function because they're easily manipulated by marketing.
How is your PVM so bright? Do you have the brightness cranked to max? My BVM looks like that bright if I take off the 75ohm resistors...
Also, is that a Marantz or Sansui reciever? Mah Nigga!!!
>You might have to adjust the actual overscan on your tv.
it's a CRT TV
i've done what i can to center and minimize overscan by tweaking my modelines, but emulators that cut off the borders make it difficult, since it places some elements right on the edge of the visible area, which would otherwise have a bit more room
i've had no luck yet finding info on this tv (TEAC EU-48), and i don't have the original remote (only a universal one), plus i have found nothing on the mainboard/neckboard that could help with geometry
It's not that bright actually, it's due to the photo. It's almost at minimal level.
The receiver is a Pathé-Marconi, a cheap knock-off that I got for 30€. Sound is meh (lots of cracks at low level), but it looks hella good.
Here is a daylight picture.
Hey /vr/, been thinking about getting another smaller CRT for my desk to play my Famicom and my NES on. I already have a Trinitron kv-27fs13 for SNES, N64, Genesis, Saturn, PS1, Saturn, Dreamcast, all that, but it's easy to run out of space around that thing. I think older systems look better on the smaller CRTs anyway.
Should I just look into finding a smaller Trinitron, or would there be a better solution? I have this free TV I came across recently (see picture) and it isn't bad, but it's just kinda wonky. For some reason, the Famicom only works on channel 95, haha.
>Should I just look into finding a smaller Trinitron, or would there be a better solution? I have this free TV
Free is free, but what you do is entirely up to your specific needs and wants, and that's really something only you can decide. I will say that a bit of variety is nice, and seeing a shadowmask every once in a while is nice.
>but it's just kinda wonky. For some reason, the Famicom only works on channel 95, haha.
That's because channel 95 is just about the same frequency as channel 1 in Japan, and what the Famicom would feeding towards.