Those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
So, to reiterate, for this group build
Secondary: purple or pink (or both, fuck it)
Due date: February 1st.
Email: [email protected]
Don't forget about the lineart in the OP.
>when you do a near perfect snip from a gate, leaving little to nearly no nubwork
First for most disappointing midseason upgrade in decades.
I don't even know where to even start. I like the design of the shoulders, but they're too much like this new Graze's. Not to mention the Valvraves.
Is that airbrush booth new? Shit is way too clean.
Also protip, I use the same one and you should tape up the cracks where it unfolds because excess paint particles will go through them
Wow you sure showed me, too bad the rest of popular eastern designs don't agree with you.
The problem with that is the Barbatos WAS designed by an easterner and I thought it would have been more appropriate to use something relatable. There's aren't really any recent animations that really care about accuracy when it comes to designing western style armor, and the only thing close would be vidya from FromSoft or Capcom.
Either way I'll still order the new Barbatos even with the silly block hammer/mace
Well fromsoft has people wear actual armor as they design stuff for the souls series. Like the only feminine thing is just the heals, the rest looks pretty normal. But yea that mace/hammer is interesting, im thinking it may open up trick-weapon style. Like the mace had a spear/pile bunker
It's not even midseason, it's probably going to show up by episode 20 and at that point we'll be in the last leg of the show. It's the final form and it looks garbage
>There's aren't really any recent animations that really care about accuracy when it comes to designing western style armor,
Maria the Virgin Witch, and no don't take this as a 'haha you wrong imma correct you', take this as a 'if you aren't aware of Maria, then go and watch it.' I don't think I have EVER seen anything animated with that level of accuracy for the 100 year war armor. Ignore the outfits of the witches and their familiars, everything else is extremely accurate, even the combat itself during war scenes follows a lot of the old paintings.
Ok sorry, got a stupid question. What do you guys do for replacement parts? Bandai and Bluefin give me the run-around and send eerily similar emalis back about some yet to be finished parts service but it's been over a year and they still say the same thing today.
Also, to those who made the guide, thank you, you are angels in human form. There may be an answer to this question in there somewhere but I'm still making my way through it as it's a pretty hefty amount of information to read.
Finished this snap fit right now. Waiting on new paints.
it's a shin piece that connects to the flap over the ankle on the banshee
warning giant file size inbound
If you're not airbrushing but want a metal look, then why not just use metal?
This is pretty good for 1000 yen.
It's deceptively simple, but holy moley, pic related.
>There's something really off-looking on metal parts on plastic.
It's the scale.
Metal parts actually look really good on something like a 1/12 bike, but on a 1/100 robot a huge hunk of bare metal just looks unrealistic.
Last one. Officially stamped build # 6 this year.
Im not trying to be an elitistfag or tell people how to enjoy their hobby. It just seems like a lot and really quick, just think he should slow down a bit and take in everything.
Or maybe I'm just a really slow builder, I usually only do maybe 1 or 2 every two months but I began fully painting/detailing all my kits. I realize its not for everybody and I'm not saying he should do it but I've found myself appreciating and enjoying every kit I finish now a lot more than the ones I snapbuilt quickly
I take forever painting a kit since I fuck up constantly and I don't have an airbrush, so I'll build a few kits in between just out of box. I wish I could show my most recent build, but my phone won't connect to my computer.
two were started last year, both MG's, only finished this year.
One was just the RG Skygrasper. The three are OOB HG's I just wanted to do while waiting for stuff to come in for work.
If I "elitist' build everything, I'll never finish anything, only really have weekends for r&r and even then, I get dragged out by family and friends.
Actually had to turn my phone off so I can have some 'me time' today, kek.
Didn't like how Nix Providence's back hardpoint was literally just a hole in the back so I built some detail around it with some layered styrene. The putty is just to make sure the surface of the leveled pieces is smooth and even and will be sanded tomorrow.
ok guys in need of help here. an acquitance of mine is building his first Gunpla kit, the Exia Dark matter. He came across something in the customize advice that he can't figure out for detailing the Ice sword. I had a look myself using 1999, and I can't figure out exactly what they are doing either.
Is anyone familiar with what is going on here? as far as we can tell it looks like some kind of paper is colored then somehow attached to the blade, but that doesnt seem right to me.
I scribed some panels here and there and rebuilt the shoulder peg connection while I was at it. I was going to do more but I'm starting to burn out and just want to move onto the cleaning stage and start painting now.
Yeah, it's hard to see but they are using a sort of adhesive paper to color the blade rather than painting it. They display a similar technique with foil paper for chrome details and car modelers sometimes do something similar for chrome trim.
>used my model as the OP image
>nub marks circled
just did my first paint job. kind of think I went overboard, but I'm happy with it. used acrylic paints and a glue gun
Finished painting my super-gm. Got a few touch ups to do and some decals, overall im happy with how it came out
Gonna stop now to not take up image space.
But wow, this one actually looks p-good.
Well uh.. Next time buy a cheaper model and try looking up some weathering techniques and practice with that. Also try looking into real life weathered objects for a comparison because truthfully this kind of looks like black paint smeared on with a brush than any sort of weathering. But just look at this one as a learning experience and a example of what to avoid the next time you get a kit
Got some on and now the shields have some "battle damage"
Ver. 3 of my station. The final two steps will be getting an actual Belvoir to replace my five dollar store copy and making a side-table for the laptop, so that I can quit abusing "Arms and Armour from Iran".
Here's my first attempt at a complete repaint.
How'd I do?
Asked a thread or two ago, but I didn't get many responses, so I'm checking again. Anyone here with any experience with the Maschinen Krieger kits? I'm fairly interested in them, but they look a bit beyond my skill level, especially with the level of painting required. Or do they just look more difficult than they actually are? Any tips for gitting gud, especially with the 1/20 scale people?
you're looking at the pic from the wrong angle. it looks fine here.
then why bother destroying such a fine model if you can't at least put a little effort into it?
aside from the guide (which you should read), there are loads of tutorial videos from youtube or what have you, which can help you improve your techniques. and they only take about 3 minutes of viewing.
a little black paint on the eye piece to properly highlight the eyes with the led and the result is pretty good
putting on all those decals is very tiresome
Does the Nu have an easy switch for the eyes? I want more units with LEDs but the only one I've got right now is the 00 SS/G and it's obnoxious as fuck to turn on/off the LED in it's chest. The GN Drive ones aren't exactly easy either.
you have to remove the back piece of the torso and the pull off the entire neck/head structure, turn on or off the led and put everything back together
it's probably my favorite build since they made the jump in engineering with the MK-ii 2.0 like 11 years ago.
holy fuck that thing in my closet is 11 years old.
nu is over 3 years old.
i am old.
I don't know guys.....think I'll be okay to paint tonight?
MG jesta is great. It just pulls out easily unlike the nu.
Just noticed I didn't completely clean off the paint on the left eye so here's a right side shot.
how do the funnels hold up? they will be last thing I'll work on mine but seems they are really flimsy to even hold together, maybe I should display them midair with the base?
I've had the nu 2.0 since release dec 2012, re-displayed multiple times with funnels in flight or racked up on his back, no issues.
even the KO ones that came in from hong-kong for the double funnel display are still fine
Another detolf fall (I really should stop posing kits on there) claimed my z'gok's arm. Poor z'gok.
Just a broken peg which cement will fix.
Their connection to each other isn't the strongest. It will hold but you will know when you come to it.
All 6 funnels when equipped WILL lean the nu to the side. (not to mention the risk of falling backwards but just be careful when posing)
Putting them on the stand display is better but that's my experience. >>5429690
>tfw only one new kit laying around the house & you're in the mood to get busy but it'll be a bit before you can buy some new shit
should i save it for desperate boredom or just chug along? pic is kit
And more progress on the z-knight.
Gloss black and silver on the forearm didn't come out the best but it's passable.
I'm finally going to make the transition from snapfag to paintfag, and this guy is gonna be my first. I picked him because he was cheap and easy to build, but painting him seems like it's actually going to be a bit of a challenge at some parts, mainly the shield.
Also, upon looking at this pic, I realize I need to do some work on a few nubs. But yeah, hopefully in a couple weeks time I'll have something worthwhile to show you guys.
I'm cross-posting from the /m/ thread (I don't come to /toy/ very often, but the Gunpla thread here seems more active)
I've been working on my HGUC RX-78-2. It's not much but it's the first Kit I have done and actually painted, and it makes a world of difference. It wasn't anything special, just cans of Tamiya color but I do like the results. I didn't have anything to panel line with after I painted so it's not totally done yet.
I want to get a little better at painting on HG kits before I move on to the MGs I have in my backlog
Doesn't seem to be too thick so that's pretty good considering it was spray cans
Also is it me or is the red part of the shield coming off? the bottom should be flush with the white
Trim the safety nubs off the v-fin
Some SD's are actually tons of work to do properly, this kit was one of the most challenging I've done due to the trim. If you're just starting out I'd suggest trying lots of different techniques and paint types on your SD so you can take that experience to another kit you care more about.
If you just try to do a basic paint job that's fine, I tried hard on my first kit too, but I think if I could go back I would do something like different brands of paints per limb, masking, different layers of paint etc. just to get more knowledge and experience which is what you lack in the beginning.
Getting more done on this guy, he's gonna be one of my favorite bros if the rest goes well
I had to rip all of those 8 arm boosters off and then mask them and glue them back on, it was terrifying...
Not really, no. The revive box art doesn't have them nor does the art in the manual, even if the display build in the manual/box/etc has them untrimmed. Bandai also makes it a point to tell people to remove them anytime they do tutorials and tips.
Besides, official or not they look like shit
You were 100% right about the shield not being properly affixed. I guess I just didn't push hard enough when I put it on the first time. As for the safety nubs, I was with >>5429919 originally and I thought they were part of the design now, but it looks a lot better without them.
Also, what would be the best Zaku II to pair with the HGUC RX-78-2? I am thinking the HG Origin version should work, but I don't know if the amount of detail in the Zaku would clash with the streamlined design of the HGUC Revive Gundam.
>trying to make operators operate less operationally
Give it a new shitty gun and mount a standard federation shield on its arm.
I did use references but I went overboard. I'm going to take more time and be more subtle, plus I'm going to do more planning. Now that I look at it, it just keeps looking worse and worse to me
it's easy to just keep going with weathering
You really need to plan it out first, even use the lineart pngs and just plan what you want, then you don't keep going OH LOOK A BLANK AREA and adding more
I meant lazy in the sense of line work, I was intending to make it look substantially damaged but I did it too much in excess. I plan on following references and guides more closely on the next one
exactly my point.
just buy a fine tip gundam lining marker or any fine tip marker for lining if you're lazy. other than painting and weathering, lining is right there at the top when it comes to making your models look better.
a heartfelt thumbs-up to anyone who can identify what this model is referencing.
Hey guys, which Crossbone Gundam is the one without the ugly skull on the chest?
I want to build that one.
this corner at the bottom was the hardest part by far, not sharp enough to just use 2 straight pieces
thanks, I've never had to do these okawara style lines without decals before; it's a total pain. In retrospect it would have been better to paint everything this color first and then just mask it and paint it green, but I wasn't sure if I was going to have time for it. I used 1.5mm masking tape along the bottom edge then eyeballed the gap where the paint is to be 1.5mm so I always had a reference to make sure the line was the same thickness.
the HG X1 and p-bandai X2 don't have a skull on their chests and the MG X1 gives you the option of whether to use the chest piece with the skull or one without it; the p-bandai X2 doesn't have the skull chest either, it may have the parts for it but I don't remember since I didn't build mine that way. the HG X Maoh has an enormous skull on its chest but is a pretty good looking kit if you want to leave the skull off of it. These are the only crossbone/crossbone related kits I own so I can't speak on the rest of them.
Here's a pic of my MG X1 using the non skull chest piece for reference.
Also be gentle, it was my very first MG and I built it a long time ago
Thanks, this looks great, but I'm not confident enough to get the MG.
Honestly I think the black chest is what makes these models look much better. Just look at the Mk. II and see how well the black chest looks on white and red.
Hopefully the HG X1 Crossbones has slightly darker chest piece.
well as I've said every time you've posted your work so far, I think you're doing a marvelous job so I definitely think you can pull it off; it will just take the same patience and skill you have been using already with this build. good luck, I can't wait to see how it comes out
oh ok gotcha, the MG isn't that bad, just a little finiccky in some places. I heard the FC was a whole other story though so I never picked one up. I really am not sure if the HGs chest is darker or not but I get wait you're saying, the MK-II is a great design. well then here's a pic of my HG X1 and X2 when I was still working on the X2. I should take some completed pictures of the X2 now that it's complete, but since it's almost 4 AM that will have to wait until tomorrow. Also the X1 is one of the easiest kits for nub removal in my opinion so you have that to look forward to as well.
Remember: Autistic children who use masking and thinner deserve our pity.
Relatively new but I was thinking about finally taking on something not HG. I know the guide suggests some good MGs but are RGs any more difficult? I was looking at a couple but I didn't want to get in over my head.
i really like this schem
What do you guys keep your work tools in? I have a couple towers of plastic drawers for infrequent stuff like primer, extra paints, razor saws etc. but for hand tools I found this new box, it's a Sterilite 1402, which has divided compartments that are removable trays and it's really handy because you can just take out a tray for each part of what you're working on.
Why do the designers do this?
because taste is subjective
and yours is shit
It's been fine in my experience (maybe a bit thick, but it comes with the territory of spray cans), but since I got an airbrush I've moved to Alclad's primer since its so easy to use.
Surfacer is surface primer you dumbass. Don't be so anal about a product name when someone uses a fucking synonym.
Gotta sand that shit.
20% gundam content:
The shoulder armor and biceps are from wild tiger, bunny supplied the rest of the body.
-Hands are from the MG Sazabi.
-Combat Knife is from some Kotobukiya weapon kit
-pistols stolen from one of the old-school MG Strike variants
-Helmet antenna from MG Jesta
-Additional shoulder padding courtesy of Sprukits Master Chief
>It's been fine in my experience (maybe a bit thick, but it comes with the territory of spray cans)
dude, i meant the MG X1
Question to those of you who have used Banzaihobby: is there any particular reason why some of their kits have different weights than they should? Example:
MG Chars Zaku 2.0 weighs according to HLJ (which I presume to be accurate, I could be wrong) 660 grams, while HB tells that it weighs 740 grams. Where does this extra weight come from?
I think the answer is: "your mom".
But seriously, their postal service could just be classifying packages according to weight, so they're rounding it up or down in accordance with that.
I can't speak on the FC since I don't have it but for the regular X1, the main issue is how well it holds it's weapons imo, mainly the beam zanber since it's so large which causes the wrists to become loose pretty quickly, all the rest of the weapons aren't really a problem though. also sometimes the thigh armor likes to fall off but since I've improved with gunpla I've fixed that problem. oh also putting the anti beam cape thing on it is pretty fucking frustrating. that's really it though. I think the people that complain about the MG X1 are usually referring to the FC since it has all that extra stuff and the muramasa blaster is probably real heavy but once again since I don't own it I can't say for sure.
The absolute madman.
Also wtf is the point of building groups? One guy snaps it and another paints it? Sounds a lil gay for gunpla, maybe good for actual cars but not tiny toys
Everyone has strengths and weaknesses as builders and painters. If everyone works together on the same kit and does what they're best at, the kit will be better for it.
It's pretty simple, actually.
Thats kinda overkill though, and imo it kinda stops the person who cant into say, paint or line, not practice or work to improve. If it were a themed group build like what were doing that be cool, but 5 guys working on 1 kit is too much
The /m/ one has more gundam/gunpla banter and this one is more straight gunpla building. Lack of mods on /m/ means more shitposting of course.
Lurk on /m/ /gpg/ for a bit and see if you like it.
I honestly don't understand what you're trying to accomplish by trolling like this. It's like you're trying to argue that bondo isnt putty.
Surfacer is designed to fill scratches and small gaps.
Surface primer is designed to fill scratches and small gaps.
Primer primes the surface for paint, i.e. it's a substance to which paint will adhere better than bare plastic.
Surfacer is for filling in any physical/texture imperfections, like knicks and cuts, even uneven surfaces if it's not too extreme.
A lot of hobby primers have microfiller these days though, suitable for use as surfacer and as a primer.
>I wonder why Mr hobby don't make all their surfacer (using 1500 now) primer surfacer instead of just surfacer.
It can still be used as a mechanical primer, it's just not chemically active. It's tougher than most acrylic paint and the texture provides mechanical grip for paint. If you sand a surface you'll find paint will adhere better to it than the finish straight out of box, same idea.
As for why they don't just make all their surfacer chemically active for plastic, who knows. Maybe plastic primers harm resin and polyester?