Those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
Old thread: >>5404218 (You) (Cross-thread)
So, to reiterate, for this group build
Secondary: purple or pink (or both, fuck it)
Due date: February 1st.
Don't forget about the lineart in the OP.
After looking at the end of last thread, why is it so hard for people to understand that you're supposed to thin paint? The instructions on thinning and applying it are on like 90% of bottles and tubes of it and pretty much any guide on painting models you find tells you to why and how to thin.
And yet time and time again we see monstrosities like those.
Tell me the project you are putting off, and why. No time-based excuses, I'm talking project(s) you are actively avoiding.
>wave LED mirage
>all that white, shit chest construction, a million plastic shards for the waist
What do you guys use to clean your hand/air brushes? I'm mostly using enamel and acrylics with handbrushes while waiting for my airbrush and was thinking of buying hardware enamel thinner to clean everything.
I don't think I would build another one, they have so much shit to fix; and the construction, like that shoulder, just makes no fucking sense
why would they put the seamlines on the most complicated curve of the whole piece fucccck
>I am a art genius
I remember that thread too.
I have a lot.
>Tieren taozi Amazing
>Crossbone peg leg
>Amazing Red GM
>Triple Zeta Gundam
>AmzingExia repair II
The main reason is that I lose interest and burn out at some point halfway through and typically come back to it at some point later when I don't feel like starting anything new.
I do this too and recently moved, I'm starting a 1 project out at a time rule to force myself to get through things and prevent having 8000 projects out everywhere, and all of the tools for the different stages
It's really helped me get through my current project
Ruined the thread? The guy made the thread to show off his WIP and brag about it, and when people tried to tell him why what he was doing was not just wrong but could seriously damage his health he blew them off and told them that he was an art student and knew what he was doing.
it depends, but yes potentially. It will definitely eat whatever paint is on the outside of the brush which makes it sticky, and if it's a cheap brush it could eat the glue
just be careful with it and don't just dunk it in there like a middle school art kid
This guy, I've had to repair some delicate parts a couple times and can't figure out a paint scheme I love enough to do it. He's just been in the box for like 5 months
I'm literally making the amazing exia repair though. From the show. It's built from the hg dark matter because I started it before the regular amazing was even announced and didn't feel like waiting for a possible kit. I got to the painting stage before I burned out and it's sitting around primed now.
Max Factory Military Qtys
This guy. I haven't been able to decide on paints and how much detailing I should give it.
Sidenote, why does this line seem to have no internet presence whatsoever? There's barely any photos online at all.
PG WZC. I've almost exclusively stuck to HGs for the past 4 years, scared to fuck it up. Spent the money on it back '13, built it, took it apart, came up with a proper RG style paint scheme, fucking never touched it again. Now I'm at the point where my airbrush won't even go back together properly. I guess that's what I get for being cheap and buying a shitty one.
>F91 released in 2013
>Crossbone showed in manual.
>Crossbone released 2014
Who thought it would never be made?
Nobody. Derringer (Trip who works for Bluefin and is a reliable source) confirmed during the Harrison custom release that we would be getting Crossbone HGUC and that the reason the Harrison custom was a regular release was to go with them.
He actually got in a little trouble at work because of that iirc.
You guys think Dragon momoko will make an MB Strike Freedom or should I just get the Monster conversion parts?
Tacky as fuck.
A Brain Powerd kit I need to paint, but it'll be my first time painting anything and I really don't wanna fuck it up. ;_;
I also bought a Volks Terror Mirage and am seriously overwhelmed by how complex it is compared to what I've been building up till now. This is entry level by FSS standards? Geeeezzz...
this. I'm probably only 1/10th of the way done with it and have built multiple kits instead since starting it.
This guy's a bit annoying to stand up. Stupid bell bottoms.
Looks nice though. Zakus are p-cool
>$9.99 with Prime
Get your custom fodder here!
No wonder Build Fighters had a whole bunch of custom 00 suits. They were the cheapest on the market.
Finished modding my gm. Used some of the normal 1/100 zeta parts that the red zeta came with, and also used the graze boosters for the back thrusthers. Gonna build the weapons
I did one of the big shoulders for the revive qubeley. First part of this kit I hate. Lining the interior of the big white outer shell pieces is a total pain in the ass. The areas you would line are so shallow that you can't really wipe at any excess without removing the entire line for about half of it. Honestly makes me want to just say fuck it since it won't be that visible often.
Made a collage of the progess i made so far. Used most of the leopard davincis weapons for it, based the arm cannons off the fa-78. And for the rifle modded it so the bottom barrel is a beam saber. Gonna prep it for painting tomorrow
TINY daily haul
Third Stylet and the *ahem* naked gourai resin kit
>have something you want/need
>try to consolidate orders to maximize shipping efficiency
>suddenly realize you just doubled your budget
>cut some away
>place order, it starts shipping
>and then you realise you forgot something
I have a question about masking a large area, can I cheat and use scotch tape, laid down on top of itself to interconnect, and just use the more expensive masking tape at the border sections? Or could this rip off paint?
>doesn't need that much paint
>falling for color accurate plastic meme
Do you want to spend all that time building a nice expensive kit and still be called a half-aborted snapfag?
Detail-only painting is babby tier.
Quick question for any competition builders, is it normal for the place to charge for entering?
Not really, no. But i've only seen stuff like gwbc and sponsored events. If its a small scale event, they probably need to get the funds from somewhere, right? You could always just shoot them a mail.
I wonder if Japan cool would like to become a gunpla distributor like bluefin or if they make money price hiking normal kits, and if they did become one I'd imagine they couldn't sell P-bandai and star wars stuff any more, and there's where they can really Fuck you over
>finish second colour on model
>figured out what I was doing wrong with my painting technique, now it actually looks good
>the first 80% looks awful by comparison.
Well, I'm glad it went well, but it makes me want to throw out the other parts and start over, almost.
It'll be dicey, as a lot of those lines don't really have an edge or corner to them, as they are too shallow. It sucks cause part of the line will be deep enough, then suddenly not be. Horrid place between something you clearly should line and something you clearly shouldnt.
I've haf good results with valljeo matt varnish and mr.color flat clear.
The vallejo is a water based acrylic. Shake the bottle really well and just add some thinner until you get the standard milk consistency for thinning water based acylics and spray it on. It sprays and levels fine as long as you don't go super heavy and soak the part. It is really flat though and more than a couple coats will start to sort of whiten the model. It also takes a while to dry and several days to a Week to cure to its full durability so don't assemble the parts until like 3 days have passed after spraying.
Mr.color clear flat is what I have started using recently. You thin it with the leveling thinner and it sprays smoothly and dries quickly. It also cures within 24 hours and has a smooth flat appearance. Just be aware that the fumes are toxic and you need proper ventilation and a respirator to use it.
I also grabbed one of those newer tamiya xf flat clear bottles to test out but haven't had anything to try it on yet.
I absolutely love their "wet look" gloss lacquer clear too, but I think they only have it in cans
it's one of the hardest gloss coats I've ever used, great for car bodies or even just to seal paint
I am wondering if any UK-bros will be possibility going this?
I kinda want to go and maybe meet some gunpla fans
Heck I might want to throw something at the contest for shit and giggles
>Want to paint Gelgoog really bad
a-aslong as i leave it drying under the porch roof its fine right?
Shane is the manager of Japan:cool, he does not like me.
That and I'm not being allowed into the g-con facebook group, my brother isnt being allowed in either.
I've offered to make custom trophies for the winners but had that turned down, despite him saying he'd like help organising the con etc.
I dont think I'd be welcome there full stop.
what the fuck is a Shane?
Is there some sort of UK gunpla scene where richigo is considered shit and Shane is hot shit?
(don't like to do trip-sucking posts and while I have no clue about the UK "scene" richigo seem to be a cut above most here at least and I imagine 4chan to be the anti-hugbox so I would assume that would make him a contender for first place in one of the categories)
I advocate people importing themselves instead of buying from overpriced UK retailers, and resell kits at reasonable prices myself.
He doesnt like this.
He does not actually build gunpla, just sells it.
He also doesnt like my attitude.
Like I said earlier, it's wreck. Like, hurricane aftermath levels of mess on my desktop. I finally have time to clean it tonight before continuing.
hey guys. Just had a question for you all.
My roommate was nice enough to grab me a model kit for my birthday recently, it's a 1/144 FG Zaku II Char Custom.
Being first grade I know the quality of the model is well below that of an HG, and the articulation will be next to nonexistant. But I'm curious if any of you have experience with this FG kit, and if it can be painted up/lined to look half way decent?
Looking at the parts on the runners, it looks like it might at least paint up/line nicely, for display at least.
Pretty quickly, They're made to be wet for a little while so you can clean up the linework a bit before you set to dry.
I'd say give it 30min at least? probably a little less, but I haven't had any of my lining smear after 30.
Thanks for the info.
I already kinda figured as much. I'll clean it up as best I can, and see what I can do with it, I have all the supplies, but I'm use to HG's and was planning on my next kit to be a RG or MG kit, since I've already built 3 HG's to date.
Still, it'll be a fun build regardless.
>>Also don't spray paint outside if the humidity is >60-70%
I wish this was possible but I live in Florida. Its been dry as hell and I just checked that its at 71% humidity.
I really just ignore the weather though. If its not storming out I'm good to airbrush in my garage. Haven't run into any problems yet but I'm sure I'll get fucked one day.
One of the many Gundam knockoffs designed to cash in on the plastic model craze of the 80s.
It will, but you won't.
>own Iwata compressor
>buy cheapo hardware store compressor for muh tires
>holy fucking shit is this thing ever loud
>takes 5 min to get to 40psi in the tank
you absolutely do get what you pay for
Im talking about in general.
Anyways i orderd 2 aggus off hlj, got my shipment in and there was only one. What was weird was there was those packing air bags instead of the one sheet wrap. Do i ask whats up or nah?? I can understand if they ran out or forgot, its just first time they kinda messed up on me
Meanwhile on my local craigslist.
Any gems where you are?
as a model of the imagined real version of the robots yeah
but I love them as objects of art, there's so much more humanity in their designs
a 1/144 original Gogg would go in the MOMA; an RG wouldn't
One of the best MG releases. LED slot, fully poseable hands, included stand and arms to display the fin funnels deployed, optional alternate mode, lots of detail.
Only two notable issue. The funnels like to fall off the back unless you fix them together more securely and it's limp wristed when holding the beam rifle, even if you use joint tightening on it.
The old proportions are honestly some of my favorite gunpla designs and I don't know why
To be clear I'm very glad that all the different versions exist. One of the best parts about gunpla as models is how many different versions of one suit you can get, its like there is a concept that is a "zaku" and many different proportions and levels of detail can represent it.
Anyone know if two layers of Future is sufficient protection for a part that might rub on skirts or something? Namely the thighs.
Or should I put a layer of lacquer gloss over it (Testors Gloss one coat wetlook)
sometimes I... put a little rolled line of sticky tack behind the skirts so it's not visible but contacts the legs before the skirt plastic does
don't tell anyone
Ok, I guess I'll put the lacquer over the Future once the Future is finished curing. And once it gets warmer.
I plan to put another flat coat over the final coat but we'll see. But I just need the paint underneath to be protected.
I'm pretty jelly of this RD line, I hope we get something like this as a kit eventually
Double GM Riders.
A pair of 2.0 GMs tussied up as Riders 1 & 2.
But those white stripes on the sides of the costumes, the arms, and the legs... I don't want to do those just yet... urgh.
Also holding off on CHROME MACHINE!! until I get my seam-welding and chrome-spraying games up to par.
Like, as-is right now? Gimme some minutes...
... I want Gouf Woulf...
Oddly, leave it to the old Zeong to actually be damn-well proportioned.
So since its freezing all week i cant work on my Gelgoog, so i'll start on my Crossbone, for when i have to paint the face scars its top coat gloss then paint and decals, then matte coat?
i have to have something playing in the background
I'm considering going. The admission fee isn't too bad...but I don't see myself paying 20quid to enter the competition.
I know the prize is, supposedly, a flight to Japan but Shane travels there like 6 times a year, if he wants the event to be a success he should just donate his air miles, considering all his flights are written off as business expenses.
Also, from the way I read it you don't een have to atttend to take part, and judging isn't even taking place on the weekend of the con. What a pile of wank. Who's going to send of their gunpla, that they've been working on for months, only to have it handled by someone else?
I've been doing a bunch of research on respirator cartridges, and there's a bunch of conflicting info out there. What do you guys think? Is OV/P100 the only type of protection worth mentioning? Is P95 good enough?
Finished my frame arms girl kitbash last night, opinions?
I'm probably going to go if I can get the time off work. It's kinda expensive when you factor in a contest entry, but the fact of the matter is if we don't support shit like this the UK will never be taken seriously and will never be considered a serious locale for gunpla distribution by the relevant interests. Plus while japan-cool may be expensive, they're still the cheapest UK based gunpla retailer by a long shot which is worth supporting.
I'm apprehensive regarding the turnout, but I can't do anything about that other than turn up.
it's not even braincells here, if he's been doing so much research you'd think he'd realize this is a difference between effectiveness at particulate filtering, which is not the big problem for us (although obviously it is one if unfiltered). The main problem is vapors.
seriously just do this >>5422732
that being said, why would you ever go for a 95 when you could have 100, it's not like minimal savings are worth it when it comes to your lungs and brain
>4B DJ max
If you're not mashing all the buttons at light speed you're playing DJ max wrong.
Cool kitbash though, helmet looks weird, and I would have preferred a skin tone, but pretty good job overall.
I wanted to make the airbrush table my building table too but I added too much stuff.
I'm from the UK and I can tell you Japan:cool do the best prices for Gundam model kits within the UK, I'm of course not including individual sellers on Amazon and eBay.
Unfortunately I didn't find out about them until a few years ago where I was buying kits from Gundam Mad which were at the minimum 25% higher in cost at the time, they are closer to Japan:cool's prices now but still a few quid more.
I don't like buying from Amazon or eBay unless it's an official shop listing products, simply because they are filled with counterfeit items as I've experienced when trying to obtain 2 specific pokemon games. The price is less 2x the value before tax in japan, £20 for a kit that cost £13 is alright with me. Importing takes longer and cost more.
That's just my opinion though since those are the only shops I know that sell it.
It's normal for things to cost more in the UK anyway, for example an xbox cost $300 but also cost £300, that means we're paying $420 and for us it's like that with books, games, computers, heck even imported sweets
Then dont use ebay or amazon.
As an example, that UK retailer sells the revive qubeley revive HG for £22.70 delivered, whereas from banzaihobby you can get one for £11.50 shipped.
Of course you're free to buy from wherever you like, but a 100% markup is, well.... ridiculous.
I tidied this yesterday and it's in a fucking tip again already. Not working on any gunpla at the moment, just trying to get this Blenheim I started 18 months ago finished.
never even heard of Banzaihobby, coming from a small island and all, the only place I've heard of as I've told you are Gundam Mad, Japan:cool, TokyoToys (they sell barely any for a 400% increase of the japanese value) 1999.co.jp (I don't even know if they ship abroad) and Hobbylink Japan and out of all those.
Now don't get me wrong I don't like their prices either but they also arrive really fast, i have had things arrive next day on 3-5 day delivery, those who live local don't have to worry about delivery fees.
Unlike the US with their barnes and nobles im always seeing in threads we literally don't get gundam related things reaching, heck even the remastered blu rays for the original have only just been picked up here.
With all products that aren't naturally sold here we get a huge price increase, especially if the item is cheaper, that's just business. also shipping we'd get hit with a 20% tax on top of the cost.
if the total is under £15, you don/t get any customs or tax charges.
Unless you're new here, the guide lists a lot of japanese retailers that ship internationally
Hobbysearch (1999.co.jp) included.
If you ARE new, read the guide.
By all means support the local stores, maybe we'll actually get noticed by bandai if the event is a success, shame I cant be there to bolster the numbers.
the choice was made for me, But thats for another discussion.
I never did get around to contesting the customs charge on that kit in the end, but someone I know did, but didnt get the handling fee refunded.
Just moved my gunpla/cosplay work area to my basement. Still getting set up but am loving all the space.
Aye, that was me.
Anyway, to keep this at least slightly model related. Herein lies he sad remains of my Gen-F SD Zaku II. I knocked the box with all the parts waiting sanding over weeks ago and managed to get all the way to the painting stage with it before realising that the left shoulder had been eaten by the carpet monster. Ive taken everything off the floor and cleared both my desks just in case, but it looks like it shall never be found.
Farewell tiny, cute Zaku. I barely knew ye'
I quite like them, good colour range (though sometimes not very accurate if you're doing military stuff).
I do thin them, normally with their own brand thinners, though if they're acting up I sometimes use Vallejo AB cleaner. I have sprayed them unthinned too, and just upped the pressure if I'm felling lazy but I normally thin them 50/50 or 90/10 if I'm doing pre or post-shading.
Its mostly just props these days. Here's one I did of Bandai's HG Mass Production Eva's heavy spear.
>terrible early 80s gunpla proportions on it.
The hell are you talking about? The FG Zaku is based on the PG design. I swear, most of the people here that talk shit about older gunpla just do it because it's a meme.
Who's calling them shit? I just said that they have poor proportions, which a lot of them did. And no I am not just parroting that as a meme, I've built them before and in terms of build quality they tend to be better than a lot of the military models of that time and price. They often just have awful proportions that aren't consistent with the lineart or most of their in show proportions.
>implying the show proportions were ever consistent
Ah. Sorry to jump on you like that. The thing that bugged me was that the FG posted earlier was from 1999 and actually had decent proportions.
>which a lot of them did
I dunno, I'd argue that a lot of them were decent, if not pretty good. Some of the real early ones like your pic were indeed pretty goofy-looking (hurr), but the models started looking pretty good about a year or so into the line, including the aquatic MSs and the ships. Some of them, like the 1/60 Dom, look really good given their age. I'd say by 1983 is when Bandai really started getting their suff together. Pic related is the Gundam included with the 1/100 Perfect Gundam released in 83 (iirc) from the MSV line.
A lot of the initial models tended to be a bit more low effort in terms of the sculpts because Gundam at the time was not a very big or successful franchise. Shortly after the models were relessed it exploded in popularity and they began to start actually putting real effort into them. For example I was blown away by how good thr original 1/144 zeta kit was. It doesn't tranform but has a surprisinging amount of articulation and the sculpt is spot on.
And it turns out that for the zaku I was thinking of one of the early 1/100, not the initial 1/144.
Super late response but what do you use those tiny Testors bottles for? I've heard mixed things on Testors and it may be true that they're low quality or that people just prefer other brands. Can I know of your opinions and experience, if you don't mind?
I'm still pissed at Max Factory. They showed off that amazing Gypsy Danger model with a 2015 date on the card and then never followed through and just stopped showing the prototype off and have announced and released a bunch of other models since.
Hi Nu Influx up for preorder on gentei and gundamplanet
Going to be risky but painting my Anavel Gato Gelgoog parts today since its nonstop snow for atleast a week. going to try and follow this pattern from Extreme Vs
Helmet texture looks a bit funny because it's sparkling in the light, the surface is super smooth. It was a total pain in the ass though because the resin I cast it with casts slightly sticky.
Oh shit, I made those DJmax videos back when I first started playing the game, intended to make a series from 4b on up but dropped the game after a while.
The helmet is based on the original mech design where the whole top half of it's head is clear, that was pretty much the only way I could think of to replicate it.
Thanks man, I was going for a pale skintone because I was originally going to make a grim reaper kinda kit with it, decided against it because it was overdone and too edgy. The skintone might be too pale or it could be the daylight lamp I'm using. I'm also colourblind which doesn't help. Probably should have got a second opinion on the skin before I painted.
so i just finished my MG turn A right now. i noticed most of his decals are shit, except maybe the ingressa militia logo and the green turn a symbol. now, i know turn A doesn't really need decals. but gunpla is freedom and i wanna decal him up.
any idea what decals look good on Turn A?
>i know turn A doesn't really need decals
>i wanna decal him up
>any idea what decals look good on Turn A
So, you are saying you want something but you don't even know what it is? That must be really tiring, anon.
yeah, i guess i'm just kinda too used to getting my MGs beefed up with waterslides and dry transfers a la Ver. Ka.
don't know if the Ver. Ka treatment fits with Turn A, so might as well ask you fellas here with your bright ideas.
dunno about flames, but tribal might work, kinda fits his theme.
Save the Ingressa Militia logo for a Zaku II, throw in some Turn-X decals on it
go subtle. like pic related.
Using my current project to practice panel scribing since these old Seed 1/100 have no thigh detail. It's not purfect and I slipped a bit on the left one, but that's a simple fix.
well done anon, keep building and having fun
Having built it, I know the rest of the nubs are hidden from that pose
>coworker sees a picture of a kit I finished recently
>starts asking me questions
>sends me a picture last night
>it's a fully built Barbatos
I've recruited another one, boys. He's already ordered more kits.
What do you all think? How's my 2nd painting attempt? Any advice, critique?
Not too terrible for 2nd attempt but
- Somewhat sloppy panel line job, aside from lower arms
- Red on the side skirts is very sloppy. Also forgot to paint the gray there.
- Overabundance of decals. As a rule of thumb, they usually look like shit on non-white plastic so be very careful with how much you use on those colors.
I like the detail work on the inner-frame though.
>any gundam blog shares a build
>its a sazabi ver. ka
It was impressive the first time i saw one but everything after just all blends together, i wouldn't be surprised if someone just takes the same images and adjusts the hue and colors slightly before reposting
Finally got an action base for my Exia Dark Matter.
Still one of my favourite kits ever.
80's plamo had a charm that cannot be reproduced these days.
Pretty sure the guide had some recommendations.
I would go with HG 00SS, Jesta or any of the new IBO/Origins stuff. Age kits are pretty nice too.
Your first kit will almost always look like trash anyway, unless you had prior modelling experience, so don't get attached.
Also, read the guide if you haven't already.
from the back, with the butt shield it kinda reminds me of a wasp/bumblebee, which I'm alright with since they're cool little critters
for me, the Gusion Rebake is starting to steal the show a little bit, so I might skip getting the HG and get the MG when it's available
couldn't find a definitive answer in the guide, feel free to roast me if it's in there.
will enamel panel wash crack bare plastic?
i want to buy http://amzn.com/B00M58FWVC and line up my models but i don't have an airbrush or future to give it a gloss coat first.
>are those two white spirits sprues
Done with the DM Skygrasper! Except for top coating this spring.
Not trying to be an unboxing fag but couldnt find a scan of it online but fuck I really love koto boxart
Looks like one of the gun head guys from Kieth Courage in Alpha Zones (Majin Eiyuuden Wataru). But I've never actually seen the anime the game is based off of, so maybe it's something completely different.