Those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
Old thread: >>5404218
So, to reiterate, for this group build
Secondary: purple or pink (or both, fuck it)
Due date: February 1st.
Don't forget about the lineart in the OP.
First time painter here and I'm trying to decide on a matte finish spray to go with. I know you guys tend to recommend Tamiya for everything, but I've found the Testor's version of the same thing for half the price and a week shipping time as opposed to 3 months. Would it work or should I go with a higher end option?
WIP of my first MG, an Exia I got for Christmas as a surprise gift.
So i'm thinking of doing some kind of paint job for my MG Gelgoog, dunno if i'll do a existing Ace or a OC, Any good color patterns would look good for one?
Does anyone know of any alternative sources for gundam waterslides?
I'm trying to find decals for a 1/100 gale strike or even just librarians faction decals. I cant find anything on samueldecal.
it's weird, the RX78-2 has never really appealed to me but I fucking love the G-3
I would do Gato, but i'm already planning to use that theme for my MG Rick-Dom, since that was the suit he used to earn his "Nightmare of Solomon" title.
Ral might be cool, though i might do Erik Blanke
I'm the anon from >>5412857, here's the WIP Zaku II until the new hands I ordered come in.
I still need to put on all the dry transfers and stickers and do some more panel lining, but I really love this kit.
I think you might have me confused with another anon, I had trouble deciding whether or not to get the Type F or Type J.
Regardless, this kit is so much better than the original Zaku II I made almost 20 years ago it's fantastic.
All the /m/ gunpla threads are a fucking mess right now, so I guess I'll ask here and hope for greener Zakus:
So I got a real grade Zaku II over the holidays, and sat down to try and build it. Holy shit is this thing a pain in the ass. The leg hoses are fucking annoying as shit, especially their pegs. Pulling them out of the bag they had stress lines already and broke the second any pressure was applied. Thankfully superglue keeps them in place.
But how the fuck are you supposed to get them in to their slots? I got one in, but I felt like I was applying enough pressure to create a fucking diamond, and my thumbs are worn raw. Does anyone have any tips for getting them flush in their holes?
You followed the instructions, right? Right?
posting some old work to motivate me to finish some kits.
I finally did it. I went through and tossed out all my old Gunpla boxes. I should have taken pictures, but it was about 50 boxes or so. All I have are the unfinished kits (8 HGs, 1 RG) and the box of my PG WZC.
Also wound up taking a good look at my older kits and god damn are they ugly compared to what I can do now. Just, fuck. I don't know if I should just get rid of them or go back and rework on them, but that's some 50 HGs to go through. Pic semi-related, one of my more recent ones that I still need to do touch up paint work on.
What do you guys do with your old kits that aren't pretty enough anymore?
I only started putting gunpla together again after ten or so years, so all the kits I have right now (2 MGs, 5 RGs, and 10 HGUCs) I don't feel are too bad.
All the kits I made between '96 and '05 are in the garbage after my parents converted my old bedroom into a home office.
posting progress on my zaku II scopedog custom. the /m/ threads are hurting bad.
and I finished the kitbashing on my pilebunker. Do any of you guys keep a pile of bits/spare parts and are you willing to trade/sell?
got the scopedog goggles from what i presumed was a 1/144 scale toy i got for 5 ameribucks at nycc 2 years ago. it was collecting dust on my shelf since it was missing pieces until i got this zaku. reposting the closeup.
Something that occurred to me with the pile bunker is to make the rod out of steel wire or rods and make multiple for the various positions and variants andhave a small strong magnet in the cannon base so you can swap em out.
On top of that maybe spare rods on the other shield would look cool in a rack, maybe with some sort of attachment holes or something. Probably just holes at every 90 degrees.
Scopedogs are tiny as fuck, you probably got an Actic Gear one and even then those are only 1/72. Pic related is one next to a RD RX-78, which is pretty darn close to 1/144
This is going to be my next build, never built any previous seed kits nor am I a fan of seed truly but there's something about the design of the aile strike that i love
Ridden's might be cool but i'd have to order decals for it or everyone would just assume its char's or a edgy Red/black OC
>Check the Jegan tag on Modelers-G
>Suddenly Kond-inspired Jegan
A lot of things look good with Kondo proportions (I love his Marasai personally) but this one just doesn't sit right with me. The chest area looks so wrong in terms of general attractiveness.
just ordered like $200 worth of airbrushing paint and equipment.
I'm in too deep.
take the time to read up thoroughly on using the equipment right, and understand that you will make mistakes.
Also, consider investing in an ultrasonic cleaner.
And lubricant for the airbrush.
I use the tamiya 3 brush set which I got off amazon for like $7. Good overall, but if you want to do super, tiny 1mm detailing then you'll want to get a separate ultra fine brush because the thin brush won't cut it
I'm looking at Amazon, and those brushes ship from Japan, so the delivery time is like a couple weeks.
I was looking around for similar types and I came across this one
Think they're pretty decent?
I built Led Wayline's Zaku, I primed that bit on the antenna only to find my dark gray missing so I'm waiting on that
Given that he's practically a different character with that name, it's not really his Zaku.
It's like saying you built Quattro's Zaku. Given that "Quattro" didn't have a Zaku, you didn't. You built Char Aznable's Zaku as that's the persona he was using.
Given that Johnny Ridden is his actual name, any units he uses later would still be Johnny Ridden's XXX.
Same goes for Char. You could say you built "Casval Rem Deikun's Hyaku Shiki" and you wouldn't be wrong because that's his actual name.
I started the revive qubeley last night, I've got the head, torso, midsection and both legs built cleaned and lined.
It's a great kit, really fun build so far. These revive kits are phenomenal.
I might finish the build tomorrow and disassemble it for top coating.
best MSV character or best MSV character?
So I finished building the Sniper Custom
Should I bother to paint the thing with spray can and all at all?
It seems to be such a hassle with these classic kits. Might as well spend the time and money getting the GM sniper 2.
For fine detail you need to buy actual artist 20/0 or so brushes, or you can get Tamiya super ultra fine: http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM87172/Sup
also, unless you take a double major you're gonna have free time. they can only cram so much school in a week
posting zoids to make this post somewhat toy related.
>time management issues
you've answered your own question
but to get a little deeper, i'm not saying i did great or even good in school, but after a year or two you figure out a system to get the most learning done in the least amount of time. even if you're not great at time management, you're not going to be studying all day every day, there are a few hours here and there to put toward a hobby.
i don't know what shitty community college you went to but saying 90% are degree factories is an outright lie. Maybe during your first year when you only have to take your basic studies courses which are easy as shit but as the years go on the amount of work grows pretty heavily (at least that was my experience). There were long periods of time where I didn't have time for gunpla at all. Now that I've graduated though I just work during the week and build on the weekend.
Koto's HMM Zoids Season 1 lasted from 2006-2013, and Season 2 has just kicked off with the Death Stinger. If you're into Zoids, post your wishlist and cross your fingers for kits!
Non-Scale Snail Hover Cargo
>Mite be cool
Warshark (lol Wardick)
Non-Scale or fuck it, 1/72 Ultrasaurus
Non-Scale Whale King
Got this kit for about $3.50 so I used it to fuck around with some weathering & damage. I quite like how the exposed wiring came out. Was tempted to put a crack in the visor but I was afraid it'd break.
>old kits, what do
since i've just recently began to use spray cans, i use my old kits to practice painting. or, you know, other modelling techniques. you should never throw them away, you might always eventually find use for them.
also pic related just came in the mail, what should i expect? any ideas where the included decals might look good on the kit? because the manual doesn't say shit.
Why use spraycans? As the cost adds up an airbrush is significantly more viable and even gives you more techniques. If you have a place to spray with cans certainly you can use an airbrush interchangeably.
Thanks Amazonbro, thought they would cancel it since the order was sitting around for a couple of days
I remember buying this Green and Blue months ago to use for my Gato Custom Rick-Dom, but think i'll do his Gelgoog instead. anything else i should have gotten before i start? from pictures i've seen i could probly just use the default color for the torso but it would look odd against all that painted blue.
the rest in the pic are just leftovers from older projects. but i do like to paint the inside of jets gold
Here's what I've got so far. If I have time after work today I'll finish the arms and funnel unit.
I love all the curves and overall color distribution on this suit.
I'm going to make some effects for it so I can have some of the funnels deploying like on the box art.
it really depends on the college and the majors as well. My personal experience from Art school is the vast majority of the majors had fairly high 'potential' for tons of free time during the week due to a lot of work being done in the classes themselves due to the fact you can't just expect students to study for some huge written test on how to paint or animate. Excluding the gen-eds the classes were all project based, and many times end up overlapping to some degree so you could make one project and tweak it a bit to suit multiple classes. Exception to this was during mid terms and especially the finals, there is never free time during finals.
I figured the entire school was like this, well I was wrong. Culinary had pretty much ZERO at home/dorm workload that was not given by a Gen Ed. Those guys always partied every day of the week when they weren't working part time.
So TLDR, dont judge tons of college experiences on your personal experience. There are way too many types of colleges and majors out there. Sometimes they really are degree factories with tons of free time, but free time does not always mean it is a degree factory
>And some CAS for Berserk Fuhrer and Dark Spiner, including the ones in the concept art that were never produced.
Dark spinner? I would like to see where it was mentioned they planned on that getting CAS. To my knowledge, the only zoid other then Liger Zero and Berserk Fuhrer that had CAS planned for was the Konig Wolf. Quite a shame the CAS line never really took off except for on the Liger.
>Non-Scale or fuck it, 1/72 Ultrasaurus
1/75 scale ultrasaurus is not that big of a deal, it would be roughly the same size as the one already made by Tomy, same as the Gojulos they made. The Anime had way way different size scales going on for a lot of the big zoids.
putting together the inner frame made me realize just how fuckhuge the mg nu ver ka will be once complete
Guess you missed the "(at least that was my experience)" part of my post. Maybe you should try going to college so you can learn to read better. Also I was replying to the person that was saying that 90% of American colleges are degree factories. Your autistic caps lock response could be directed at that message just as much as my post, unless your the OP of it and are assblasted. Between the college I went to and the colleges that my friends I made in high school went to, the general consensus was that during the latter years of college things got busier. Also I don't recall saying my college experience is how every college in America is, I simply was refuting the statement that 90% of them are degree factories is not true at all.
I did some science today
Do not mix alclad matte clear with Mr. Color as a means of just getting a flat paint
I just needed to touch up some black I had previously flat coated, so I did this to test it
They mix like oil and water, I had to add some leveling thinner and then it worked-ish but the cleanup was a huge pain and I had to clean my AB nozzle out from the gunking the two did together. I mixed them in the side of the cup, so it wasn't a jam from just adding heavy paint, it was a chemical reaction.
This is how we learn, but just don't mix Alclad matte clear and mr. color paint.
What would you guys say is the laziest use of stickers as a work-around for color accuracy in Gunpla history? The funniest one I've experienced so far are the stickers you're supposed to use on Sengoku Astray's swords.
since i currently only use clear flat and clear gloss paints for topcoat purposes, and i only buy 1 MG every 1 month or so to use them on, i think spray cans will suffice. i'll get an airbrush when i graduate out of university and get a job, or when i actually want to really paint stuff, but for the moment these little magic cans do fine.
No you had the point and missed. Iirc oil doesn't really mix well with water and a bunch of other stuff. To mix it right you gotta mix it kinda fast, but not too fast or shit will "break"
thats why ill just be happy with my HG V2s until the MG V2AB comes out.
>mixes lacquer and enamel
>is surprised at the results
there was basically no information on what the clear was, it smells different than their other enamels so I wasn't sure what base it was
this is basically why I tried it out on something unimportant
>I think those dont mix at all
yeah I know that, my point was that there was nothing on the bottle or even the website that said the alclad clear is an enamel, while their colored clears and base black all clearly say enamel
that's the only reason I tried mixing it in the first place
Reposting from /m/. Question about lineart friends. When wanting to use white for parts, is it optimal to just not color in that part of the lineart, or is it better to show white with a slight tint of black/grey?
no they come in gray too
for this one, I used silver and gold in the shoulder and hip balls, as well as the ankles
next step is doing the panel lines in the individual armor pieces and applying all those fucking decals....
English major (The business and technical writing kind, not the creative writing kind) here. The first couple of semesters you tend to have a lot of free time as long as you didn't completely overload your schedule. As semesters go on and you start taking higher level courses, you end up with more and more work and studying to do. In my final two semesters I basically had a couple of 5 page minimum papers due every day for different classes, a mandatory internship, and French courses on top as my school required four semesters of foreign language to complete an English major.
It really does depend on your major.
It wasn't "planned" as it probably never went further than the concept art but around the time of the whole Eisen Dragoon / Liger Zero / Koenig Wolf / Shadow Fox bit of the Battle Story where the motorized kits were basically frames with armor they were being designed with the potential for CAS in mind and smaller kits (like Killer Dome) that could double as weaponry.
It all got dropped in favor of the Blox line, which attempted to fill the same roles.
it is a shame because all of that detail will get covered by the armor
still, its nice to see an actual inner frame after how simple the one of the X was
I think only the hands are ABS plastic, as they even feel different and harder compared to the rest of the inner frame, which seems to me like any other usual runner
seems bandai are going backwards and getting lazy with inner frames.
exactly my thoughts, so I decided to just use a gold gundam marker
the result was a bit uneven due to the tip of the marker smudging a little but I'm happy with the result
best part is that when you put the knee joint into motion, those pipes move inside a space just for them, so the paint will not scrape off
for normal colors it is very thin, to the point that you would need several layers to cover a surface
metallic colors are another story. In my experience, at least when using the gold color, you are better off using first a cap
press the tip of the marker in the cap to allow a small puddle of paint to form there, then immediately use the tip of the marker to go over the surface you want to paint
do no not exercise any pressure on the tip when painting, otherwise, you will make a royal mess pretty hard to clean
I do the above because if you try to paint straight from the tip, you will end up with several parts looking too thick
black strips on, eg, the God Gundam's pauldrons and feet armor things.
Also, guess what just came in! (no box photo edition)
No seam welding. Just trimmed, sanded, lined and snapped together. The seam lines are really well hidden on the limbs at points where there should be panel separation of lines. The torso and heels are the most notable seams.
Here's a kit I've been building, the old MS-06Z psycommu zaku. This is pretty much a straight build except for the head where I lowered the visor opening and added a monoeye. I think in the future I want to focus my building on more neat old kits like this, and doing more to change and enhance them. They take a lot of work but there's something about the strange proportions and seeing the old kit engineering I like. In the future i will probably just build my own joints out of polycaps etc, but I wanted to see what it was like to do this with the original connections. Turns out those were shit.
I personally dont know any official source per say, I have seen it referred to as 'chapter one' and 'series one' as well. Apparantly koto liked to hint and tease that they did have plans for a continuation of the line and that it wasnt dead, just the end of the series/season/chapter.
Shadow Fox will get one if it hasn't already.
Man, the guide needs an update. Tried handpainting gesso because of the wind today and it's dogshit. It's terrible advice and you'd be better off going over the plastic with a high-grit sandpaper or just use a medium acrylic. The gesso has zero bite on plastic and it will slop off worse than any hobby acrylic, and ironically the parts with more durable paint are the ones without any sort of priming.
Now I have to strip this inconsistent shit off and hope the wind tomorrow isn't strong enough to blow back all the exhaust paint back into my house.
Do you have a pic of a surface primed with it?
I'm just curious why you'd choose to save money on something that so dramatically impacts the overall look of the paint and therefore the kit
Dont have a pic, but from my experience, gesso primed stuff came out better than when i used to use krylon acrylics. Im just curious to why youre triggered about someone using something different
>Do you have a pic of a surface primed with it
BTW, white glue mixed with craft acrylic works about as well. Except for the whole vinyl thing.
Look pal, youre obviously triggered. Yea i made a typo, but my point is i hate krylon spraycans for priming and would rather have perfectly smooth gesso go over my shit.
Stay triggered friend :^)
What're you working on right now, /toy/?
I think I'm finally starting to get the hang of thinning ratios and hand-painting properly. If only I had gotten it down before doing the main body.
>how to tell if someone is wasting his time trying to get good at modelling
>1.cardboard hacked into pieces and tied together with a random tape
>2. cardboard is carefully cut into pieces of equal size and neatly placed inside a frame
Yeah, but, see, his have parts on them. You remember parts right? That's the stuff that makes the kit around which the hobby is supposed to focus. You might've forgotten while you were making that really swell cardboard stick holder.
The total sum of my efforts to improve at this hobby can be accurately gauged in advance by how professionally my base is put together?
Well, I'd better just throw away my paints and models, clearly I"m wasting my time.
Really? Are you serious?
>High horse bullshit
Nothing of the sort, merely pointing the obvious.
You know how people are given aptitude tests for all kinds of occupations? Well, this was it and he failed it. Modelling is an incredibly boring and tedious hobby at the "good" level unless you find tedious and careful work enjoyable.
Fun fact: you could make a neat paint base in about the same amount of time if neat is what you like. And liking "neat" matters a great deal in modelling.
I'm sure you'll be willing to show us all the masterpieces you have produced using your perfectly measured and aligned cardboard stick holder then and demonstrate how they could not have been accomplished with his.
My work area is a fucking wreck so I'll probably have to clean it before going further, but I am working on detailing up a 1/100 Nix providence for a local contest. It was one of the first kits I built and it is a mess of gouge marks. Besides those, I pretty much rebuilt the shoulder pegs to have more detail, scribed some panels, covered some gaps, covered the hardpoints on the wrists with what I am making into little cameras, added more detail to the back so it's not just a hole the backpack plugs into, and some other little things I'm taking from an official bandai guide on how to MG up a providence.
No pics because I am embarrassed by how disgusting my work space is at the moment.
I've got a quick question, maybe a dumb one but I'd rather be safe than sorry. How long should I wait for a part to dry before putting masking tape over it?
Do I wait the regular 3-4 hours as if I was doing another layer, or should I wait a day or more? I don't want to scratch the paint at all.
Mechs are cool and all, but is there anything except the Maschinine Krieger stuff for walking tanks? Don't see this stuff very often here. How is it? The fact that it's an odd 1/20 scale is keeping me away still. How do they look next to 1/18 scale stuff?
If you're fine with resin I believe MiG sells some of Fichtenfoo's 1/35 spider tanks as kits.
Wow, that must have struck a nerve. Why though (if you don't believe it to be true)?
I only said what I said because aptitude tests is what I do at my job and you can rest assured that they save companies literally millions on bad hires.
But they also save time and frustration to applicants who are not a good fit for a position.
Take it however you want, I said my piece.
Yea and you passed the "im an asshole" test with flying colors
The award commitee will be there in five to give you your reward.
We here at /toy/ are truly blessed to have someone as modest as you
Ok, this is too over the top, I can't believe he's being serious anymore.
Just ignore him.
Ok guys, I need to build up a proper paint library of something else than my rather crappy local paint. My local store has an assortment of Gunze Sangyo and Tamiya stuff, what should I go with? Tamiya bottles are negligibly cheaper, also what's Aqueous Hobby Color and is there any substantial difference from Mr. Color? Unless Mr. Color's an enamel and not an acrylic as I'm thinking of it right now.
Will you guys stop bickering and
guess what just came in guys!
>anything by Microsoft
You didn't think that example through.
Nice, I checked the manual on dalong but it seemed to only have the color guide for the char figure. But since I'm going to be using spray cans instead of an airbrush I'm not sure the guide will help, especially without a monitor for correct colors. I know you can layer even spray cans but achieving a mix sounds tough, that's why I was curious if anyone knew the closest cans of the top of their head. But thats what spoons are for?
Oh wow, it's a fucking box. How exciting...
I'm off to work. tfw no wing effects parts
Has anything further been announced about the re/100 Efreet?
The only thing I've seen was from the one expo with I'm assuming an April release date.
This worries me, if there is indeed a lack of interest they can end up scrapping it.
Look at the mg age-3 and age-fx, we had prototypes on display, and we got fuck all ever since.
The efreet, while colored, is still a prototype, I hope they continue with it, I plan to buy 4 to repaint into each of the basic model variations.
Norn has the clear frame while past one doesn't and comes with a shitty claw hand which was corrected as an addon for the banshee norn unicorn mode.
Ok so i tried making the energy rings for God Gundam, definitely retrying this when its not 4am and when i get proper blutac instead of lazily taped it since it wasn't perfect anyway
styrofoam does suck, but I love the ability to put sticks at an angle if I need to, especially on pieces with large surfaces or strange shapes that might need to hang a specific way
It's just kind of a tradeoff, styrofoam overused can make dust too which is obviously horrible
I went to Gundam Front today and pic related was my favourite item. Even when compared to the hundreds of Gunpla for sale.
Just the pure value of it all being together.
I bought Nichijou 1/35 Mechatros as well, can't wait to build it.
[spoiler]I also got 1/35 MGS Ground Zeroes Soldier set, so I'm going to turn one into Big Boss Mechatros, sorry.[/spoiler]
>creator works #4 comes with a hakase, nano, and sakamoto-san
FFFFFFUCK I NEED THIS
They come in green, red, pink, and yellow iirc. Non-green ones are harder to find, but you can make one yourself super easily, in any color you want, and cheaper too. If you really want official just google "Gunpla LED Unit". You can find them all over the net for like 10-20$.
How often do you guys use putty for making unique shapes for you customs?
Like actual part forming? Never. I use sheet styrene for that.
For extending parts and making areas thicker I use two part putty, and only really work with it like 30 minutes after I mix it so it has some rigidity/isn't quite so tacky.
depends on the application like most things
I use it when carving the part out would be easier than making it with styrene, or a combination of styrene and putty
That's a nice meme, but they have more money than you so they must be doing something right.
Plamo newfag here, so I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question. Are there any kits that look nice without painting? I love building this kind of stuff but I don't have the space or equipment to paint them. The only kit I've done before is the Kotobukiya Metal Gear Ray and I loved making it but without the paint it looked like shit. I did panel lining but that didn't really help for that particular model.
A lot of gundam kits look good without painting. They are mostly molded in color, but how thoroughly they are done in color varies. Some HG kits have ridiculous sticker usage, some are excellent and require few stickers. The Revive HG kits have had crazy good color separation.
Have you looked at the D.U.S.T stuff? The 48th scale stuff is for wargaming and comes painted. But they also make a line of resin/plastic 48th and 35th scale models.
Thin your paints
Don't use a brush unless you know what the fuck you are doing
How do the Real Grade kits look without painting? As someone who usually paints kits but it at college without all of my equipment, would building real grades and just topcoating and panel lining them be substantial enough to get a good looking kit? Do most people not paint real grades?
read the whole catastrophe here
Nothing except horribly nonsensical color schemes on kits it doesn't belong on.
Rex is one of those things where, you paint the accurate colors or you don't paint it at all
And if you don't give it the proper camo it better be because you want to make it look like Sally or a Gecko
Depends on the size and shape, but for that it's either putty, or make a styrene skeleton and putty in the gaps. You can also use a heat gun and plaplate to form over a piece, but that gets complicated with vacuum chambers and such.
>not buying 8 and using them to create the full production line of model
What are you, a sensible human being?
Think planes vs tanks.
You can paint a tank blue or pink but it's just going to look weird and out of place because the paint job fucks with the purpose of the thing.
You can give a fighter plane some custom commemorative paintjob and it would still look okay as a fighter.
they're kinda perfectly made for that, you only need to paint them for custom colors really.
The only issue is the markings are always stickers with horrible edges showing and I don't know how easy it is to get waterslides of them.
meanwhile on reddit...
he clearly knows its horrible but seems to take some perverse pleasure out of it
It looks like dried bird shit.
This is actually he first time I feel physically ill looking at bad paint jobs.
Styren/cardstock/wire skeleton that marks some key curves and points, generally
Here's a recent example of a form I built for a 1/12 papercraft handbag. The straight apex is a piece of cardstock and the cuved apex was formed by gluing short bits of wire into holes in the base plate.
I think the thunderbolt and origin lines are also really good, the origin guntank and mobile worker are super well designed and have almost no visible seam lines. Great kits all around in both series if you like the designs.
/toy/ help, im completely stumped on this colour scheme.
thats not how you spell penis