Those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
Old thread: >>5394817
So, to reiterate, for this group build
Secondary: purple or pink (or both, fuck it)
Due date: February 1st.
Don't forget about the lineart in the OP.
I posted this on /m/ but I'm getting less than helpful comments
Help! I just bought an MG Hyaku Shiki ver2.0! I tried shaving the nubs like usual using a sandpaper (low grit then finishing with high grit) but I kept shaving off the gold plate instead! Help! I don't like nub marks on my gunpla, looks like a peasant just built it!
Hyaku Shiki is under-gated, non of the nubs should be visible or terribly obvious. Unless you go crazy on the sandpaper you should be fine, I'd recommend just knifing the nubs away for minimal impact anyways
Ordered a badger patriot from Amazon and accidentally bought a Sotar 20/20 as well. Do I consider it a subconscious gift to myself or return it?
hi nu get
time to hunt down the HWS add on kit
Quickly painted a mk III with the AEUG mk II colors, fucked up the shading quite a bit so you can't really tell anymore. Looks way more like a zeta.
>Looks way more like a zeta.
Well, that's to be expected given it's designed by the same person: Kazumi Fujita.
He's definitely the most creative Gundam designer though, Zeta, ZII, MKIII, Psyco MKII all look remarkably different especially compared to nearly every other Gundam design.
Is this a custom? I don't recognize the model of mobile suit.
>You are not giving any credit to Nagano.
Not intending to deny him credit as I love his style too, but his Gundam designs specifically (not MS in general) still fall back on rehashing the RX-78 image which is a bit disappointing IMO.
Kazumi is also quite diverse outside the realm of Gundam too, whereas Nagano designs are always easy to spot.
Find nubs please. I have pretty bad eyesight from too much GunPla building.
No, I'm not cleaning the mould imperfections on the hose things.
Disgusting thruster and horn nubs. Makes me want to vomit then kill myself.
Reposting from previous thread.
So I'm planning to bring some materials like spray cans, cement, etc (generally flammable stuff) along by plane but after some research, the general consensus is that these items are not allowed. So is shipping my only option? Any anon experienced this before?
How do you keep your sanity doing it anyway? I've been cleaning the powered arms powderer and IBO option set one and its made me want to murder kittens on some of the pieces.
How do you do it anyway? Putty up or sand down?
>his Gundam designs specifically (not MS in general) still fall back on rehashing the RX-78 image
The what now? Without Nagano's Mk.II concepts most of Fujita's stuff wouldn't exist. 100 Shiki is the only thing he did that looks even half normal.
I just asked my local hobby guy to order a PG Char Zaku II for me. Looking forward to this... I think... Probably not.
>currency going down the drain made the local store a more economical solution
Guess you've got to look for positives even in the worst situations.
Yeah the stand sucks, I really wish there were clear AB2s since the star wars stuff works on them
The sotar is better for details, I got the patriot for solid coats. I'm thinking I would keep the sotar around for preshading, but I don't know if I will get use out of it beyond that?
>Build 1/35 mechatro WeGo
>On a whim put the limbless body of a 1/35 soldier into it.
>Now considering turning what is essentially a childrens school bus into a military power armor.
This feels morally wrong somehow.
I use these without any issues: http://smile.amazon.com/Loew-Cornell-Inch-Storage-Count/dp/B001GM933Q/ref=pd_sim_201_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=419EHKV0snL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1YRET1Z3DDQQX884EX6Z
Where can I get a 1/35 Char/FF?
Just realised what mine is missing...
I haven't tried that actually, and honestly I'd get these for that (or some with metal lids): http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPZ554?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
>I need them to be around 40ml or more.
>40ml or more
Unless you are painting something truly big, premixing a lot of primer or paint in advance is not a good idea.
Glass and metal >> plastics.
>Been wanting to make some coloured putty.
A piece of advice from someone who tried:
a little cement = too thick, hard to work with, hardens before you finished filling, however it doesn't melt the surrounding plastic
more cement = perfect texture, easy to work with, however it melts the surrounding plastic a little so after you're done filling, sanding and priming you notice that you need to fill some more
I have a little glass jar of it sitting in a drawer but I only used it once. In the end regular putty is just less headache.
For those times when you only need to mix a few drops of paint (which happens a lot more often than you'd think):
Should I get 1 RG ZGOK or 4 HG ZGOKs? Also I've got 2 RG titan Gundam mkii's I'm considering getting another or at least the revive to round out the three or just swapping the other for another kit
For the Z'gok'Z'Gok's I would say get Char's RG Z'gok to lead them and get HGs later.
As for the MK2s get a third Titans of either to round em out, I would say the RG myself so they look consistent, and then get the AEUG as the revive.
I just started using the sandpaper set that I got recently, and holy shit.
It's so much better than an Exacto, that shit comes out so smooth and beautiful, and my hands feel a bit smooth also.
This is going somewhere interesting.
Anyways finished the edgemaster. There was alot of normal zeta parts leftover so im gonna use em for my leopard
Also fuck transformations, that was pretty damn hard to do
I just finished building this. I really like him. Going to get rid of the seems and paint him.
Don't think I shared this review, http://otakurevolution.com/content/zoids-hmm-death-stinger-review
Just a little work in progress. Messing around with weathering. Char's zaku was a really fun kit to build
I need to find/make good spots to take photos. Did this in front of my printer.
Bandai, where's my TIE Intercep-
>its already been released
Is it REALLY worth it? You guys'll just call it shit anyway. And only I will know about it.
Be an idiot and not change the saw blade to a thinner one. Or just use the knife.
Was it really worth it to give the Zaku the faculties to do a proper V for victory pose though?
Or Bullet Club Zaku II. Give it a Kenny Omega wig or something.
The ordinary First Order TIE is jsut a recolor right? And I assume this has the twin-seater cockpit, but really where the fuck is the Interceptor? We know from the Advanced that they can do bent wings, although the flat wings with separate binders are easier to paint I guess
I'm trying to build my EW Deathscythe, and the seams just aren't closing. I think it might be because I was using "Clear Parts Cement" instead of standard cement, but has anyone else has this problem?
Bit more work to do on the primary wings, some clean up etc, then a clear, but they turned out okay. Probably the most nervous about these as I wanted to get them as good as I could considering its what most will see.
I have with alot of them. The wings gave a lot more space for them, but just about everywhere else, trim trim trim. The clear coat should hide the edges a tad more though. That and besides zooming in in pics, not many can tell.
I will say, for some reason these have a lot more space around the sticker than on other MG kits as well for some reason. Also there a lot more.... vinyly? I dunno, just my opinion on it.
>where the fuck is the Interceptor?
agree'd. I have the revell ezkit interceptor (and i was gonna use it for a tie hg ball thing but the ball is too big)...also where is the bandai star destroyer/imperial shuttle/super stardestroyer?
just get some masking tape an go crazy.
So a quick question does anyone know how to make white paint look a little bit metallic? I'm painting and exia with metallic blue and was thinking of painting the white parts metallic white but don't know how to go about that.
>white paint look a little bit metallic
You're probably thinking pearl, amirite?
There are actual pearl paints, all of them lacquers to my knowledge.
They do not look super good on robots though, imo.
Anyone dealt with Power Dolls?
They look a little sparse considering the price.
How hard are all the stickers on the HGUC Sinanju?
I was weak, it was 20 bucks flat with prime shipping and that was way cheaper and faster than any other site. I knew already it was decal heavy but I've still been wanting some red to go with my blue and green. Im not a total retard, though my hands shake and I have tweezers.
Is /toy/ High test?
Yeeep. I also have Hydra, Shield, Unit, Ace Combat 2 and 3, UC Titan's test team, Moonraker shuttle, Umbrella Corporation and Stark Indastries logos in my spare selfmade decals for future projects.
Just wait a litte bit. And this thing will really fuckhuge
Why can't the 1/100 Barbatos come with the mace? I want it, but I want him to fit in with the MGs. Is there anywhere to get a mace scaled up to the 1/100? Is richigo's laser cutter still out of commission?
Probably just a matter of time until someone makes a upscaled bootleg of the 1/144 mace.
Part of the problem is that it is a huge chunk of plastic, and Bandai wants to keep the costs down so they make more profit.
Hopefully they release a MS option pack for 1/100 that includes it.
There are two types of papers, clear and white-based. Lot of companyes making them, you should search in your nearest shop for artists/painters. With logo I used white-based paper, and simply cut off logo with new xacto-knife. BUT, it works only with monolithic logos, you can't print white calligraphic text. Plane's name was printed in red contour on clear paper.
You should buy paper for laser printers, ink-jet can be corrupted by water without proper covering. After all, Laser Printed Decals looks far better.
Before applying you must cover decal with Microscale Decal Film (or maybe try sme clear kote, but Decal Film is best solution). After that you cut it with NEW xacto (NO SCISSORS you will ruin decal), apply on model, then use Tamiya Mark Fit. Voila, you have your own unique decal on your model.
Enjoy 2016 year, dummy.
Crap, I forgot picture. For example, simple decal, was created in 20 minutes at smoko time. If you don't have your own laser fullcolor printer at home, you can use library or something like copy-center, but you should put 10mm stripe (or 1 inch, if you american) to verify scale correctly. Only after final testing on usual paper you should print on decal paper. And remember, decal paper can survive only one printing, on secong it becomes warped, so put everything you want at one print.
It's easier, than you thougth.
Anyone else have the 3.0 Gundam? is the torso lose as hell for anyone else? everyone goes on about how posable it is but the pegs in the legs are so small and the torso so woobly i'd imagine it would explode if posed the wrong way
The sheets i saw were on hlj and said it needed to be laser printed, which i cant do since i have an inkjet, but ill search around for different brands. The only custom decal i want so far is the tenno lotus. Also idk why people are bashing you for the mlp stuff. I only asked if they were, and you're not being autistic like all the other bronies so youre cool imo
The only loose thing imo was the launcher being holstered
Wouldnt the left engine and wing fly off if one part were to move 3x faster than the rest of the ship?
With tfa ive come to stop asking why for stuff like bb8, or why a mass produced riot control stun baton can take on a lightsaber without getting sliced into bits and alot of other stuff
If you can pick some up. Mr.Color white pearl looks pretty nifty if you spray it over a gloss whit ebase coat, it's not overpowering and doesn't show up all that great in person, but looks real nice when it reflects some direct light and could compliment the metallic blue nicely (you could even spray the pearl directly over the white plastic)
finished my 2 first UC master grades, with lining and decals and topcoats. where do i need improvements?
what do you expect from old man? they're not nimble as their youth days anymore.
> tfw we're getting old soon & might not able to build accordingly due to aging
>Go to monthly plamo club meeting as a guest to see if I want to join or not.
>It's all 45-70 year old men (Apparently the handfull of younger guys weren't there that night.)
>They sit around basically having a show and tell of these really sweet looking kits and give/ask for advice, discuss upcoming kits, and joke about the companies they're coming from.
It's basically the same thing we do in these threads but at a room in a small airport museum.
There is no plamo club of any sort where I come from. As far as I know, I am the lone gunpla builder in a shitty midwestern city that is nearing collapse. Sometimes, when I tell myself that it feels good in a "Mad Max", Vault Dweller, Macho sorta way. But I think I'd rather just have some buddies to talk about this bullshit with.
My aunt used to be married to a guy who was way into car models. Like, WAY into car models. I remember his backlog room. Yes, ROOM, all the space that didn't have kits waiting to be built had kits in tidy display boxes. He even got in the local paper once because of how many fucking kits he had.
My aunt divorced that guy a long time ago, and I haven't seen him since. Shame that when I did know him I hadn't gotten into gunpla yet. I can't help but think we could've been actual friends instead of vague acquaintances that would speak briefly at family functions. /blog
tl:dr: I wish I had a plamo club.
>He hasn't spent his lifetime preparing for his secondary existence as a being of pure energy and information.
It's like you don't even want to evolve.
i'm actually waiting for my MG Moustache to get shipped. initially wanted to get a MG Victory and crossbone to complete the Late UC trio, but local stores ran out and available ones are scalper price. the V2 seems cool but they haven't arrived on local stores.
any ideas on what to get next? preferably UC timeline MGs.
ah, you noticed? yeah that was stupid, i just lazily slobbered on some silver with gundam markers and forgot to topcoat it.
also i noticed that tamiya clear gloss melts away decals. that VSBR decal is only good on the right one, the left one is all fucked up and i had to sand it off and re-coat the damn thing.
>get out bottle of one of my vallejo gold paints
>it's gone bad and unusable now
>start squeezing out the solid mess in there to use the bottle for something else
>looks like a squishy golden poo coming out of the bottle
It's juvenile but it makes me laugh.
Test fit on the upper body of the Graze Kai. I've got at least one piece that needs more painting, but I'm pretty happy with what I have right now.
Woah hold up a minute. They're selling it pre mixed for airbrushing now instead of just the flat base and clear separately? I may have to try this.
Also, tamiya is now making a masking tape for curves.
Sorry if I'm slowpoking on these, my local hobbyshop just got them in for the first time and I've never seen them before.
Well yeah, I expected to have to thin it. I just meant that normally with tamiya flat clear you either have to buy the can or mix your own using flat base and a acrylic gloss clear.
Any idea if you can use either or their laquer or acrylic thinner like their acrylic paints or does it only use one of them? The label doesn't say.
Actually, the label doesn't mention thinning it at all, just to stir it well before using.
Id still thin it. I use humbrol paints and it says that all you have to do us is shake it and its good to go, but i still thin it to be 100% sure that there be no mistakes while spraying
Well I'll be damned if that didnt come out nice
Yellow parts are about 0.5mm misaligned, but I'm still happy with it
Can someone help me with Vallejo paints? I'm trying to mix brown using red, dark blue, and flat yellow.
Red + yellow produces a decent orange, okay.
Add the smallest dab of blue and it suddenly turns a very obvious violet. Makes no fucking sense. Orange + blue should be turning a shade of brown. Adding in more yellow basically does nothing. It's completely overpowered.
I tried deep sky blue too, same result, just a lighter violet.
this cat thing showed up at my house today, he's pretty chill
I've never tried painting over transparent parts with clear colours. How far away can you get from the original colour? Couple step either way on the colour chart? Was thinking about using one of Denial's hair parts for something.
nope, this is the kotobukiya highend-master model kit. it's very articulated, fun to pose, and probably has more sculpted inner frame detail than a perfect grade.
there are parts of the assembly that are incredibly fiddly and difficult, but i would definitely recommend buying one if you like the design.
Double nice. I had a Berserk Fuhrer along with a few a others, but I fucked up building him. I sent an email to Koto asking for a replacement part but forgot to include my address so I doubt they'll get back to me
aw man, that really sucks. do you have any words of wisdom for anyone who might want to build a berserk fury in the future?
i wouldn't rule out koto responding, they answered a question i had about them reprinting a certain kit, so i'm sure you'll hear back eventually.
I'm not saying you should slave away cleaning up these blueprints for other people at request, but if you've already done the work or if people do it themselves you really should fucking sell these.
oh cool it is out and looks pretty awesome. Just as feared smaller then it's price may indicate but it seems to be a good buy regardless.
Also does anyone know if Koto made any anouncements yet of what zoids they will be doing kits of next for the line? The recent reissues and this bad boy have my hopes raised again that eventually Konig Wolf will get the love.
Konig Wolf seems cool but I would buy a Raynos in a fucking heart beat. The only other winged Zoid is Jamie's Pteras Bomber and that's sort of lame looking. The Raynos struck a nice balance between clunky big dinosaur Pteras and hyper edgy pteradactyl Storm Sworder.
does anyone know if the old tomy models are decent? are they in scale with koto kits?
they are at the same scale of 1/75. However they are not identical in size and proportions. the old ones can often be a bit chunkier and appear biger then their HMM counterparts. Parts and color is so so low on the Tomy models, especially the older and simpler ones.
But as for them being decent? I think it depends on which ones you get really. the newest releases appear decent enough, and the much larger older models like Gojulas and Deathsaurer seem pretty good kits.
Bear in mind what I am saying is based largely off my memory of really old kits friends when I was a kid and from comparison images and videos I have seen online. Currently the only old zoid I got is a Gordos I nabbed for a buck from a yard sale. Only missing a single part too(that I am aware of. instructions arent that detailed to show exactly where each part goes)
Buy one of the mesh sink covers to use when you are cleaning your airbrush or parts. I once dropped my Infinity chrome's nozzle down the drain while cleaning it since its quick release self centering so I take it apart every time I change colors to keep it super clean.
Replacement was like $25.
I normally put the sink stopper in so they don't wash away but I wasn't paying enough attention.
Luckily the piece I lost was the back of a hand so I can just replace both hands with builders parts, but I feel so stupid.
i also use vallejo and just yesterday was attempting to make brown for the first time. There are several ways to do it, and my experience thus far seems to be that yellow does not like to do a lot to any mixing.
there are actually 3 ways to easily make brown in general for painting, but they all result in a slightly different brown overall. You mix a secondary color with the primary it is NOT composed of, so red to green for example. It gives you a brown that is more prone to a greenish sort of tint.
as for vallejo and you trying orange, my suggestion is more yellow. Also try a different blue, I think dark blue is just too prone to turning things purple, but still possible, you just need to dab tiny droplets of dark blue to a big mix of the red and yellow. However I hope you aren't going to need to go back to it in the future for touchups, it really is hard to get a brown in the first place with vallejo yellow I find. I got a really nice canvas light brown with sky blue.
I'm putting metallic paint on my kits, and want to keep their shininess.
However, I have also put waterslide decals on the kit. How do I protect the decals while retaining the shine of the metal paint?
Usually I just matte coat but............
Probabaly being retarded here but does anyone know if Decalfix helps with non-waterslide RG stickers? I imagine it wouldn't but I'm trying it anyway since my previous RGs have the stickers peeling off.
Yes you are.
That said the rg zaku is infamous for peeling stickers due to the sticker going over the curved surface.
Even the built example on the box is already peeling.
Why won't Bandai print their decal more?!