This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others
The World War II group build is going on now and ends on March 31.
Some helpful guides to get started:
Inb4 arguments and retardation.
Repost. Any advice on building 1/350 ships? To me they seem very fragile.
Checked over in the other thread the other day, but figured I'd ask again here because I'm bored.
Any Star Trek fans here? Looking to grab one of the 1/350 Enterprises, but are they all pretty much direct reissues? Also, anyone know if there are plans to continue the Cadet series, or did Ships of the Line take over? Can't believe there are no Maquis, Bjoran, or Jem'hadar ships and only one Cardassian ship in 1/2500 to go with Deep Space 9.
I, for one, am glad that DC is doing their more obscure heroes as model kits.
I know nothing about tanks, but it's a Stuart M3, according to Wikipedia. Brave and the Bold no doubt took some liberties, but I stumble on comic pages with blueprints from time to time, so I think the source material is pretty well researched.
Can someone please give a greentext guide on how to make pieces look weathered/damaged etc
I've never built a ship, and rarely anyone in these threads building one (apart from you).
There was this one guy who thought decals were stickers and fudged the torpedo tubes...
Here are my recent projects. The Gnat needs some spare parts, but I can order them later. I need to do some remedial work to the wooden back-bed bit of the artillery tractor. (Scale modelling at night, not even once)
Think I'll include the little pilots. Saves me scratch-building seatbelts.
I loved the one-piece mouldings of the cab, lower hull and front bonnet bit.
can anyone recommend a paint for the fluorescent orange? Would I be better off with an enamel?
So my Tamiya Panther D is finished. Also r8
I will remove the number decals because they look like shit and replace them with painted numbers.
BMD-2 from Ace in 1/72 almost ready for painting. Don't ever bother to build this kit, it's shite. Just go for the S-Model BMDs, they are (almost) perfect.
Hey scale modelers, recently I bought this M41A3 RC in the 1/16 scale (heng long) its a lot of fun to drive around however, to my disappointment it didn't come with the accessory parts such as the machine gun, driver's view ports, tank commander and tools. I ordered them from someone on amazon, but the parts are all ten days late. I was looking for some input on how I should paint/customize this one. I've built a couple of 1/35 scale tanks, but my work looks like shit compared to most of what I see here..
Revell's entire lineup consists of:
Their own old stuff
Rebox of very old kits from various old companies like Monogram, Otaki, etc
Rebox of slightly newer kits from slightly newer companies like Dragon or Zvezda
and their new kits
Their new kits is comparable to Hasegawa. Their 1/72 subs are great, the 1/350 Bismarck class are fine, and so are their new-ish Typhoons and Rafales are excellent kits.
tl;dr; read reviews of any Revell product you want to buy first.
So... Does anyone have the Strike Witches plane kits? Are they actually good, accurate kits, or are they just gimicky? Overpriced compared to a non-SW branded kit?
Also, very annoyed that the sticker sheet doesn't seem to have a 501st emblem. Assuming it doesn't, does anyone have a favorite brand of clear decal sheet paper so I could print my own?
>Are they actually good
>Overpriced compared to a non-SW branded kit?
They're just re-boxes of old Hasegawa kits. They're good kits, but simplistic compared to today's standard. You could find them cheap on Ebay, but if you really want those SW decals, then you're stuck with them.
from my knowledge Revell Germany(the ones with the blue boarders) are great kits, I have a 1/48 bf 109 it has a great amount of detail although it can be tricky getting parts to hold together, but it peices have no gaps or pieces that don't line up.
however there kits without the blue boarder are really shitty, they're kits from like the 50's which huge gaps (like 3mm unfixable gaps).
>buying waifu models
Anyone built the Hasegawa eggplanes here? I considered buying them once.
The eggplanes are good for a fun quick build between bigger jobs or if you want something you can make and paint in less than a day. Made the f-16 recently and had fun .
Meng have just started releasing similar caricature type models too.
Thanks for the link, anon. I ordered some from amazon uk a while ago, still no word on it from them if I still don't hear anything next week well after the holidays I'll order from imex.
So I'm working on my tiny U-boat and I've encountered a "problem". I thinned Italeri acrylic paint with Vallejo thinner and after spraying left it to dry for 24 hours. When I took the model today it was still not fully dried. It has never happened before. How long do you guys leave paint to dry before you work on your models further? I think the problem is Vallejo's thinner because when I thinned my paint with water they dried faster.
I have never had problems with vallejo paints drying (really fast) so I really think its the Italeri paints being the main reason and not the thinner. Are you sure it wasnt drying retarder instead of thinner?
So I went and got the Friul tracks for the SU-100. They arrived today and I finished assembling the other side. Now im wondering if I should add one more pair of links more for more sagging, since it seems there are some spare track parts.
I´ll get better pictures when im sober, ill do the other side with one more pair just for comparison pictures with more sagging.
Who here has models like pic related (http://www(DOT)amazon(DOT)co.uk/Miniart-Scale-Gladiator-Plastic-Model/dp/B00CA5AO2M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451520011&sr=8-3&keywords=scale+historical+models)
I only do planes, tanks etc but I'd like to go for something like this
Would you recommend it as a hobby, and if so what type of paints should I get?
If you wanna build a 1/16 Miniart figure be prepared for a lot of filling, sanding and some sculpting and scratch building. The figures are cheap but they require a lot of skill to be build.
>tfw I have Friul Panther D tracks
>don't have a model to put them on
How are you going to paint the tracks? Paint or some kind of burnishing fluid?
My Trumpeter Komintern (WIP). This was my first go at single link tracks.
Please give advice/rate.
>Also is the paint finished or do plan to add some more different tones of paint.?
Some little fixes here and there and chipping to corners and places with wear and tear. And ofcourse little details like tools and roadwheels.
>How are you going to paint the tracks? Paint or some kind of burnishing fluid?
Dont know yet, most likely will just paint it with earthy tones and run sandpaper over it for some metallic shine.
I agree with you, I just finished other side, this time with one extra link added and it looked not good at all. I´ll just go with no sagging, the weight of tracks really does make it nice, so much better than vinyl tracks.
I bought them because I thought I was going to buy Dragon's premium Panther D. But it got sold at my LHS. Now it's between Tamiya and Zvezda. I'll probably buy the Zvezda one because the Tamiya one is too expensive.
Finished the bottom of my 3000GT VR4 today, the kit is hood down only, so the engine is incomplete and molded into the body; it was a ton of masking
Looking good, and nice to see another car builder in the thread.
Just finished this Revell M3 DTM, sorry for the bad lighting, it's late and dark outside. Will get better pics when I have the chance.
Been working on this TAS 44M by hobbyboss.
Nice kit, but the photo etch and bogies proved irritating.
Can anyone recommend good brushes for painting small intricate details?
I'm going to start with primer, then a coat of Model Air Russian Green 4B0. I'll paint the wheels black-grey, and the tracks separately with dark silver. I'll paint the bits in the cab. Then it'll be a gloss coat, decals and a pin wash to the whole thing, then an overall wash to the lower half.
Other than that, I'll improvise and play it by ear.
This was hard. This is some of the only photo-etch I've done, so any advice? I know the SuperGlue is a mess.
>How do you clean up blobs of glue like that
No idea anon [spoiler];_;[spoiler]
I'll just use some sandpaper and maybe buy one of those fibreglass pencil-brush things you clean up PCBs with.
Been doing gunpla/tabletop stuff for a bit and wanted to dip my feet into other scale models. Really interested in finding preferably a ship or a submarine, any recommendations for one that's maybe beginner/intermediate. Haven't worked with anything this small.
The main body is made up of 10 separate parts, including the bodyshell, the engine cowling (which is removable) and 8 pieces which line the chassis plate (4 on each side). It's a pretty tight fit once the cockpit tub is installed and required a little filing in order to bring it all together.
Decals weren't too bad, the biggest difficulty was that I've never built a Revell kit before this one , and I wasn't used to how thin they were. All decals were applied with a combination of Micro Set and Micro Sol.
Modern subs are pretty straight forward as a beginner model. It's basically a tube and a sail. Color schemes are usually all black or black/grey with anti-fouling red. I'm a plane guy so I don't have any recommendations.
Progress on the b-17f and p-38 has been slow. I finished the decals on Big Beautiful Doll. The large ones didn't come out well. I probably should have used a setting solution.
Don't even fucking think about it. Acetone will melt PS into a sludgy mess.
It's an absurdly powerful solvent.
Thanks but I'll point out some of the defects. The wing tip decals didn't really conform to the sharp edge. The insignia has some aluminum showing through since I had to cut it to get it to lay flat. I touched it up today. The big cowl decals have some wrinkles in them. Let me know if you get good results with the solutions. I've never tried them myself but it seems pretty straight forward and others get good results.
I used to swear by Tamiya kits, but the more and more cheap Airfix kits I buy (1/72 scale at least), the more and more I prefer the Airfix.
Much thicker parts, a much nicer colour to work with when painting if you don't want to prime every single part, thicker parts have less warping and so the fit is much nicer, without having to spend as much time with filler or sanding.
Am I just a pleb?
Any good ways to fix fuck-ups like these, where chipping has gone horribly wrong? Dont really want to repaint with airbrush again.
Is there too much chipping and scratch effects. Im not gonna make more but should i remove some of it?
Not really sure about the color effects for dented track fenders either.
hum hum, the fenders don't look right I terms of how they are damaged.
My impression is theyre usually damaged from the bottom edge up.
the turrent, if it bothers you, just make that bit off, that's not too difficult.
I'm too lazy to take pics of what I'm currently building because of its size.
Plus I don't really want to risk moving it around too much since I've bumped it too much already while working on it.
Photoetch finally came for my kv-2.
Also picked up an airbrush for my xmas present to myself.
So I finished my Zvezda Tiger and now I gonna post pics
So I'm brushing on vallejo's white primer on my 1/72 scale tank and the coverage of a single coat is really weak, you can still see loads of original plastic color through. It takes good 3-4 coats to completely cover it up. The little details are even more of a pain to cover.
Will it ruin my final paintjob if some sections have less primer than others?
>Vallejo primer is crap
In other breaking news, water is wet.
is overkill for everything except maybe 1/350 ship hulls.
HP TH is all you really need.
What is the best primer, in your opinions?
I have been using Halfords automotive primer which works fine, but I'm running out and it'd cost less for me to order something online than to drive up to the nearest store.
I mean I assume Vallejo is a no-no...
I just use Krylon. Cheap, available everywhere, on works well enough.
My current build, 1/48 B-1B, with Eduard PE, Barracuda upgrade parts, and lots and lots of filling gaps and sanding.
There's a shy Hobby Boss F-14B hiding behind onee-chan.
I used Vallejo, shake well, add a few drops of retarder to the empty cup before you put the primer in and add a little distilled water or vallejo thinner.
Do not add Isopropyl alcohol, it will turn the primer to mush and clog your airbrush right up.
What are the best matches for RLM Luftwaffe colours?
I'm tempted by the Model Air sets, but do they sell them separately? I mean they give you so many colours in the sets, where I only need a few to paint my plane.
I have a lot of primers already that stink my room out, there are times like now when its raining 24/7 and outside isn't an option.
yes I wouldn't. same applies to Tamiya, and alclads primer microfiller.
Only primer that doesn't smell of anything at all, was the badger stynylrez but its more a game of luck if you can get that to work for you.
I just got one of these for Christmas.
I've never built a model tank before, aside from a small Metal Slug.
I have an Exacto knife set, Tamiya cement glue, and some sanding sticks.
My question is what else should I need/ how should I go about painting this?
Holy fuck that looks like exactly what I need. I bought an Iwata eclipse but I just can't get a consistent layer of paint over my plane/ tank models and always end up with 10+ layers in the end which doesn't look neat. Are there any good models which don't cost a fortune?
Doing a wash atm. Thread's gotten slow lately.
Figure and SMG are painted and mostly finished. Did some washes and streaking. Now im just trying to figure out what is the next step to take.
I mean logically, if I was a tank crewman, I'd want the hatches the same colour as the outside of the tank, so if an enemy plane came it wouldn't have something to 'zero in' on. It'd also break up the camouflage if my tank was stationary. However on your model the white of the hatch does break up the drab of the exterior. If that was my model I'd be tempted to put a simple red star marking on the side, but I'm sure no markings at all is accurate for a Soviet tank.
Really nice work though, anon.
I agree with your logic on camoflage, but I saw many pictures with white hatches and I thought it looks pretty neat, just like the white air identification markings on late war soviet tanks.
It actually is really weird how in some cases soviets just didnt use any unit markings at all, while on the other hand they were painted with all kinds of huge ass slogans together with unit markings.
In other news.
One of my favorite local hobbyshops is closing its doors and they´re holding sale because of that, I ordered some Tamiya paints and decided to try AK Interactive products, since they seem to have a steady following. Got me some Earth Effects and Streaking Grime enamel washes, and also Track Rust-pigment. They seem pretty good products, especially like streaking grime and track rust, while earth effects was a bit of a let down. Also, these are easily replaceable with homemade products of your own if you have thinner and enamel paints, and pastel colors to make pigment dust.
Pic related, Track Rust test
I airbrushed a layer of diluted Tamiya clear orange on top of the model, made the colors more warmer. Next comes mudding up the undercarriages i guess.
Thank you anon, now I feel stupid and upset. How will you make up for this?
Now i need to figure out how to fix this predicament.
you could check
Not sure about the shipping rates to GB, but when i order from GB to GER its usually not that expensive.
MBK sells all kinds of paint to good prices.
Just finished assembling my 8th 1/35 tank
Haven't even painted a single one due to lack of motivation, time and paints
I don't even know when I could start painting or if I could ever paint at all
Mostly Tamiya models: Merkava, m41, abrams, leo2a6, challenger 1
I also have some academy: m2 bradley, tiger 1, stug 3 and pz iv
The pz iv is the only one with primer
My dad experimented with the stug but fucked up the paint which ended glossy
You can slap on a filter to change the hue and darken it a bit.
I know this thread is mostly for vehicles, but does anyone have any experience creating 1/12th scale accessories? I really like the Little Armory stuff, especially after I started painting and making them my own. Is there any sort of resource for something like that? I recently got the 1911 set and have no idea what to do with the straps included, since they don't stick to themselves but I don't want to glue them either.
Wasn't sure how to best represent the bakelite on the magazines for the standard AK, so I left them clean. Looks okay at a distance, has some of that bakelite sheen and I wanted it to distinguish it from the wooden parts.
Finished my winter Dragon T-34, here are some pics.
AN/PEQ2 is on backwards. 2/5, see me after school.
I don't see no rails on your AK?
How are you attaching all those attachments?
>inb4 plastic cement
I assume the front handguard is a modern polymer one with rails, but its hard to see.
the sights should have a rail though, or it should be russian ones with that distinct looking side mount.
Little Armory AKM kit has no rails anywhere out of the box.
If you're going to add optional accessories from other kits, you need to add the rails too. This isn't some gunpla is freedum shit where you slap random bits on and call it done.
>be in /toy/, one of the most autistic boards
>complain about austism
Hey guys. My dad has pic related, Revell 7613, but lost track of the instructions in his shop. The site doesn't have the instructions and neither do the other places I checked. This is his first model and it looks exactly like his truck, so he's pretty set on following the manual.
Does anyone know where I can find the instructions online, or, as a long shot, actually have the instructions?
(Or failing that, would you say Revell 7225 looks close enough for him to follow as a guide?)
Current WIP - 1:100 B.A.C Lightning
Metal coat tomorrow!
Always loved the Lightning but my local store only had one in 1:100. Still, not bad for ¥540 (I live in Tokyo). Also helps i can get something of this scale done in a weekend without too much effort. See pic for paints, I know a lot of people are uppity about spray paint cans but to be honest i find them perfectly fine if you dont want to jump into getting an airbrush just yet.
>How are Tamiya kit prices in Japan
Very reasonable, the prices for Tamiya put other brands like Airfix and Italeri to shame here if i`m being honest but i suppose thats expected for the here domestic market.
The stores here are pretty cool. mokei factory where i got this kit have their own in-store work benches and airbrush rental stations for about $5 an hour (IIRC). Also point cards (see pic), 1 for every $10 spent, collect 10 and its $10 off a purchase. Every little helps i suppose.
Let me give you an example:
Its 1800 Yen in both shops, thats 14€ according to google. Around 900Y for shipping (+ 7€). Together its 21€ and still below the magical number for tax free import.
Compare that to
So if i wanted that Tiger i would order it directly from JP.
But that's just a 1/48th Tiger. All the 1/35th scale kits would have import tax and the price would be equal to the price in Germany. The only kits I'd order from Japan would be Gundams because they'pe pretty cheap. The only kit I ordered from Japan was a 1/48th Bandai AT-ST. It's a shame you can't get cheap Bandai's Star Wars kits from Japan anymore.
This was the first time Ive ever been able to weather anything anot have it look like (complete) ass. Ill do an atst next
>Out of focus
Next time post with dirty fingernails to really make it obvious.
Could have done a much better job masking the front, also im terrible at canopy lines.
Will update later
Matt coated the U-boat. Don't know how I'm going to weather it.
I made a 1/6 scratch build. Please rate.
>Hell, even ancient monogram models are better than Airfix.
What fucking Airfix kits are you building?
Also, as a fan of both Tamiya and Airfix I've got to say that what Airfix has over Tamiya apart from just cost is variety of aircraft kits available. Airfix makes mainstream model kits not nasty eastern European short-runs) of a varied set of subjects.
What other company makes a decent mainstream model of a Whitley, or a Blenheim, or a Javelin, or Shackleton?
And before you lot get smart with the above I know about the FLY Whitley (short-run, innacurate) the MPM Blenheim (short-run, terrible fit and glazing) and Revell's new Shackleton (which if it's anything like a few of their latest releases, Halifax for example, will only be a rough approximation of the real thing ) and no one else makes a a 48th Javelin.
Airfix, since being saved by Hornby, have begun to produce some aircraft kits that are the best on the market, and at a reasonable price.
So I suggest that maybe you remove Mr. Tamiya's tiny, Japanese dick from that yokel-like gap in your front teeth and maybe look at what else is available on the market.
That Ral 8000 looks spot on. I just gotta find it in a can at a decent price.
It's great. Some of the tactics are silly and some of the drama is corny but I highly recommend it. As for the model it's actually gunpla. I did get the GuP Panzer IV from Pairdot though. Bought some paint for it yesterday.
Jesus, do you own shares in Airfix or something.
The new Airfix kits are great, I'm not sure if they are better or even a par with new Tamiya kits(this is only because I've built only two new Airfix kits, while I've built many Tamiya kits)
But older Airfix it's are pretty awful in comparison with older Tamiya kits which still have good detail and good fitting
What are you people working on currently?
I building a 12.8cm Selbstfahrlafette "Sturer Emil" from Trumpeter.
hi, anan, i want to buy this thing. do you think, it's worth it?
25 psi max, 10 L/min.
>do you think, it's worth it?
No. This is the cheapest shit.
Get at least something like this:
Still rather cheapish and the compressor has no tank, but already worlds better than yours.
%%sorry for my english%%
I see that his scope is installed incorrectly.
For such a position is necessary rails, or scope must be stationed on the forearm (on which a fixed rail)
At the USSRs AK all scopes mounted on the side bracket.
He used a western style scope and placed it in a way it would be on an M4 with rails for example. For that he needs rails on his AK. Simple as that.
Besides, you can use the side mount bracket to get a rail-adapter.