The last few attempts got off to a bad start, but let's try this again in earnest.
Starting a new project? Looking to finish and old one? Share tips, tools, and advice here.
What's on the worktable /toy/?
Here's some tips from the previous threads:
For sculpting: use 2-part epoxy putty like Aves apoxie or fixit.
For tools: try a basic carving/sculpting set like the kind arts & crafts stores have.
Dental tools have also been said to work well.
Also, using a Dremel is recommended. Minimites (the small $20-25 ones) are fine for starting out, but the battery life is poor. Upgrade to a corded one only if you want to get deeper into customizing. They are useful for stuff outside of the hobby though, so it's a good investment regardless.
For paints: use acrylics. Paint in multiple, thin coats. Brands like Vallejo/P3/Citadel are recommended, because of pigment quality.
Use a sealer when finished to protect your work. There are matte varieties and sealers that give a glossy look. As with painting, use multiple thin coats.
A flex shaft attachment on a Dremel is a godsend and relatively inexpensive. The grinding shield is also pretty useful, but you can improvise one using a cut open soda bottle.
I'll start with this. It's Nisa from Hyperdimension Neptunia. I got the basic form set up since her body design is simple enough, just have to fill in some details. Going to start on her distinctive gloves and boots today.
Do you have any sort of contact information or a Flickr/Tumblr/MFC/DA/whatever where you post your work? I've been consistently blown away by it, and as someone looking to get into Figma customs, I'd love to be able to look at your past creations and possibly ask you a few questions.
I have a question about painting a figurine and figured the custom general would be the best place to get a quick answer.
I have these Hockey figures that a relative asked me to paint for him an was wondering what type of paint would be best to use on them.
They seem to be part of the starting lineup toy line and are probably from either the late 80s maybe early 90s and I assume they're just regular plastic. So my question is what type of paint could I use that won't look like complete ass? I have some decent acrylic paint but I'm worried it will give an unfinished look and feel to them.
It's very well done, good job. Did you also make this figma of her? I remember it from the same thread.
Thanks for the compliments. I don't have any other place where I post my work, not many custom toy boards out there. Maybe I'll start a tumblr or something someday. But I didn't know MFC had a customs community too, I'll check it out later. If you have any questions though, you can ask them here and I'll try to answer. Of course, there's other knowledgeable customizers here that can advise you as well.
Does anyone know of a toy that would make a good base for a Metal Gear TX-55? I used a "GI Joe Cobra Deviant Mech Suit" for D so I'd rather not use it again and have them look too similar.
Honestly, I have a whole bunch of questions, so I don't really want to bog you down. My main question, though, is how you go about painting soft PVC parts without them cracking or anything. I've had great success with vinyl dye, but that doesn't come in many colors and mixing isn't really an option. In addition, do you have any particular techniques you use for sculpting anime-styled hair, or is it just a practice thing? A lot of the tutorials out there focus on more of a comic look.
cut up a vinyl figure and put in on a hot toys body for a 12 inch shin kamen rider.
How do you get a base for a figure? do you make them yourselves or can you buy them somewhere? I've been wanting to make articulated mother and bomberman figures for awhile now.
>>4488196 stuff like this is radical, and i want to know how to do it. Is it just about finding a figure with a similar body and going from there?
does anyone know of a good base figure to make a custom of Solaire? Cant seem to find one with his type of body
No, not really. You'll just have a bit more work ahead of you than you would for some other characters. Maybe try using some sort of Sonic toy as a base? Anything with those cartoony proportions, really.
So I'm working on making Bomberman, and chose this as the reference (though I can't for the life of me figure out which game it's from), and started with a basic shop to put him in a normal position/working on the joint setup right now. Excuse the piss poor drawing, this is really really early stuff.
The intent of this is to make everything from scratch, including joints, but I may give in for some limb sockets/etc.
Awesome stuff dude, glad to see you're posting here.
Great work, I wish you had a deviantart or something I could keep track of showing all of the finished stuff.
wow, you and i have the same idea for a figure. Were you the guy who made the bomberman toy thread a bit ago?
How are you going to make the skeleton? I've watched some stuff where people use a metal frame for figures. Also, the bomberman looks a whole lot like the model used in bomberman tournament, but its also a very generic model that is used in a few of the games, so its hard to pin point it.
Yeah, I was going to post it there but I thought it'd probably be better in this topic. Most of the joints will be made of raw POM (see picture), and none of them really have to be anything but white, I'm in the clear (you can't paint POM -- or, rather, you can, but there's no true bond).
I was looking up stuff for Bomberman tournament/story (jap, not DS), and while at first it seemed like it could've been, there are too many overall differences for it to be.
It's weird because it really doesn't match any of the prerendered CG from any other game. I really hope it's not a custom render...
Thats really neat, man. And yeah, its weird how hard it is to find the image you're using. I've seen it on the wiki, so im thinking its a real render, but whatever, it looks close enough to most others, and its nice. I was planning on using the model from generations.
It might also be neat to do a nendo styled one for the old style bomerman.
Model from generations is cool, the look of the artwork (proportions) is pretty definitive looking, imo. But I wanted something more solid to refer to.
The worst part will be the head. I know the general shape, but it looks like the back is longer in some images. I can never really tell. I also have to hollow out the head, which will be a pain (more time consuming than anything).
I always thought of the head as being pretty much a box. Why would you need to hollow it out? You could probably just mold the head to make it look like it how it does. Unless you mean you want to keep it from being top heavy, in which case, yeah, thats a good plan.
Too top heavy. That thing would be WAY too heavy if I left it solid.
The only square portion is the hood edges, but otherwise it's like a cylinder with rounded edges. I just think they changed some areas to make them larger/etc, so I don't know if it's an oval or anything.
Problem is, I doubt ANYONE has any of the prerendered rips. That shit's all very old and was probably thrown out after the necessary screenshots were taken.
Can anyone point me to some decent customizing guides? By decent I mean not Jin's shit. He's got no talent, and I recently discovered he's secretly a furry, and has had himself an account at fur affinity for years and has been a regular on Lulz for some time now. Fucking gross, man. Bet he fucks his dog.
The Bionicle and Hero Factory sets literally all use the same ball-and-cup joints, with the only differences being the plastic colors and the parts you'd have to Dremel the balls off of (huehuehue). As for the smaller joints on the Mixels sets, Footi is probably your best bet, with 6 balls and 6 cups for $5.
You could also try using these Kotobukiya polycap parts, which are similar to the joints used in 1/144 Gunpla:
The sets I bought were stupidly brittle, so I'd just try using scrap gunpla parts. Still not as tough as nylon or pom, but they're good for most people. This also applies to other joints on hobby search/hlj. They're not super brittle, but they're far from being as tough as anything we see on modern toys, so it'd be a regression. Lego joints might be too big but they'd probably work. Even though they snap more often than SHF type stuff (just the sockets, not the pegs... SHF stuff snaps because of how thin it is + creep, not the plastic used), they're still pretty damn sturdy (keep in mind they are ABS).
You could dremel a socket, but a lot of trial and error occurs before getting it perfect.
If you want to try dremeling your own stuff, though, be sure to nab some nice POM. I get my Delrin 150E batches from eBay. I've been to another site and bought it there, but it was extremely brittle in comparison. And since Dupont just sends them out in spheres, I don't really know what happened. I just know to buy from Zoro tools, specifically
something like that. However, you might want to buy smaller rods (I buy extremely large ones to remove centerline porosity and cut out slabs, I explain it in that little guide).
Also, the black stuff from Zoro Tools has a nicer elongation at break so you might just want to nab that stuff for socket performance.
I assume this is really if you REALLY don't have a good alternative, though. It's not fun, at all.
I've got a bit of a problem. My mami's hairpiece is molded badly and there's a noticeable gap between it and the head itself.
In addition my madoka's skirt is fucked up due to paint being scrapped off by the skirt. Anyone know what I should do to fix these problems?
Oh hey! Thats one of my little mousers! Im thrilled someone liked it enough to save the picture!
Trying to tighten some of this joints so he retains poses better.
Some updates with this. Still very hard to understand, but I'll have a guide up once I'm done.
However, the head thing is something I want some advice on. Option A is essentially just the head sliding on the rounded portion of the body, while B is the appearance of the head being able to slide around on the body + the previous option included, but it sacrifices appearance.
So should I have a little circular section (it's just a sliding disc), or save the appearance a bit and only have the head move via the body's upper contours (very limited in comparison)?
I'd just go with the acrylic, because "regular plastic" is extremely vague. It's probably just soem PVC or ABS, and for the most part, you can't go wrong with acrylic, unless it's POM, PA, PE, PP... all plastics not often used (not for anything other than joints or solid areas, at least) when a figure's painted at all, so I'm pretty sure you're fine.
Finished the leg, which should be much easier to understand than the torso.
I'm trying to make a custom of Flareup but I can't for the life of me find a clean image of the Cybertronian Knight faction symbol to complete her. Does anyone know where I can find it besides pictures of the Botcon 2014 toys themselves?
A relatively minor repaint that actually took some doing: Making the Sonic Screwdriver look a bit more accurate to the show's prop
The most difficult part was finding the screwdriver bit I needed to disassemble it: a Y2 tri-wing bit.
Painted on the left, unpainted on the right
Don't have an indoor art studio with good ventilation? USE A GODDAMN TREE.
I was finally able to clearcoat this on Friday. The effect is subtle, and it looks better in person, but it's a helluva lot better than the stock paintjob, I think.
Also reposting this from a few threads back, I made the Dragon's Tooth, from Radical Larry's Extremely Skeletal Bonfire Singalong Text Adventure
For Mami, try filing the peg on her hairpiece down a bit - so that you're making it shorter, not thinner. For Madoka, maybe try a couple of thin coats of acrylic paint? You might have to touch that up every so often, though.
Took a plastic "bear claw", you can get them at Michael's, chopped off the last half-inch of the tip, added a centimeter of 3mm rod, and reattached the VERY tip, a bit less than a centimeter of it.
I'm willing to make more for people, if you're at all interested.
Has anyone here had any luck stripping paint from Figmas? I tried the usual methods (isopropyl alcohol, brake fluid) on bits of a fodder Shamal, but it wouldn't budge. I don't know if they give them some sort of coating or what.
Any idea on how to get these heads on these snake eyes? Trying to make an army of vidya fucks in ninja gear.
I slit the head off the trading figures and now I'm left with a clean cut and don't know how to go on about it?
Another pic. I don't want to fuck up. I was thinking dremel obviously but I don't know where to get one for cheap. I also can't think of a good way to make a clean hole in a ball shape where their head is, like how Joes are.. (ball hole in skull and jaw lower than the ball hole)
Just get a Dremel, ya dingus. You can get entry-level ones for like $30, and a dentist burr (one of those bits with the ball on the end) will do a far better job of making a spherical hole in the head than any alternatives.
You can find a cheap mini dremel at walmart. Hardware stores like Lowes or Home Depot carry individual bits like the one you need. You might want to go in and clear some space with a regular drill bit first (if you have to), then refine the inner shape with the ball bit after.
Diagraming for this is done. Went with head option A because I had no way of installing a disc larger than the radius of its slot without making the head in multiple parts, and I'd rather be able to take it apart incase I have to fix something, which would require the seam to be very noticable.
Figma Archer came in today, I'm gonna make a UBW base for it. I can make the swords out of styrene, some scrapbooking or plastic gears, but I dunno about the ground texture. It's very fine, but I don't want it to be grainy or anything. I've done desert dioramas for gunpla before and those use a mixture of glue and sand to simulate the texture, but here it might be a bit rough. I was thinking of using plaster, or maybe some really fine sand, I dunno.
Plaster is probably your best bet. Those sheets of mesh impregnated with plaster are a great way to build up a good-looking ground (with those little cracks and ridges in your image). There would be little holes and cracks that you'd have to fill in with epoxy putty or air-drying clay after the plaster dries, but that shouldn't be a huge hassle.
Big Boss, about 7" tall. Made from a maskless Deathstroke figure.
Tried sanding the pegs and the problem is that the hairpiece is molded badly so it won't fit snugly into the head. Pic related.
Also what brands are recommended for madoka and are toners and/or top coats necessary for what I need to do?
In that case, for Mami, maybe try sanding/hollowing out a little bit more of a cavity in the left side (from above) of her hair piece? That way, you'd have room to push it in a little bit more. As for Madoka, any good-quality acrylic should do nicely - Games Workshop, Tamiya, Testors, hell, even the stuff aimed at painters should work nicely. Just make sure it's acrylic and high-quality, and that you do multiple thin coats of paint. As for coatings, a topcoat will help reduce the odds of paint coming off again, but I wouldn't say it's necessary, and if you do plan on topcoating, test your topcoat with rubbery plastics beforehand.
Eh, Johnny Oedipus's guides aren't awful. It's just that you can find much better ones with like two minutes in Google, with the added benefits of not giving pageviews to a jackass.
Incidentally, I had a question for you guys. So I'm currently working on a Ridley using a SHMA Alien Warrior as a base, and it's coming along pretty well. The only issue is the wings. I was thinking the best method would be to find a cheap dragon toy with reasonably similar wings and cut those up, adding some joints and sculpting it to match. But where would I find wings in the first place? There's Schleich/Papo dragons, but those are super expensive, and most of the HTTYD toys have been clearanced away in my area.
Just the finest grit you can find, really. Is Mami's hair painted, or is the plastic cast in her hair color? If it's the former, you'll have to repaint the sanded area. If it's the latter, what you can do is pour a little bit of acetone on a rag, wipe the area quickly (in a single motion), then quickly wipe it with a damp paper towel. The acetone will melt the sanding-fuzz down, but you'll remove it before it does any more than that.
Repainting and modding an avengers cap that won't make Col.Phillips cry.
I ended up checking a janky-ass Walmart that I completely forgot existed, and found a big stack of HTTYD merchandise that was on clearance. None of them were a perfect fit for Ridley, but I'll be able to make the Cloudjumper's wings work well enough with a bit of resculpting, so let's see how that goes.
Something similar happened to me a few weeks ago. I checked out this old kmart that was still in business, and it had plenty of toys and games on clearance. Maybe I should go back and check for fodder.
Hey customs gen.
I need suggestions on what endoskeleton I should use to make this beauty.
something about 6 inches or more?
So I just lost Wolfwood's second and final cigarette. I was just wondering if anyone knows of some decent looking and easy to make replacements. I'm interested in making some cigars for Big Boss as well.
Updated with pop out feature for arms/neck, and double knees + elbows.
Can anyone recommend any joint packs? Want to experiment with adding articulation to some figures I like.
I haven't used those ones specifically, but I've used others from that company and product line (the pseudo-Figma joints - Ball Joint Slim, as HLJ calls them), and they work like a charm.
Honestly, I don't think there is a difference - what you see in the pictures is what you get. Some of them are like pseudo-Revoltech joints, some are like pseudo-Figma joints, and some are two pieces with a cup and ball, but the photos do a good job showing which you're getting.
Ball shape joints are like revoltechs without the ratchets. Ball joints are what's shown in the photo, ball and socket joints.
I have some of each, and the ball joints tend to crack easily.
No company is making spare joints out of Nylon or POM other than Revoltech, so durability isn't your best bet with any of these.
I need to fix an old toy and I plan to use Milliput to do it. One on the left is mine(wasn't injection molded properly), one on the right is how it should look. I'd prefer not to spend another $30-$50 on another copy of this toy so I'm going to patch it up.
The base color of the plastic has a light cream color to it so it's not 100% bright white. I think this is the factory color, every copy of this toy is like this. Is there anything I can add to the Milliput when I mix it to get a close match to that shade, without ruining the epoxy?
/figma/ told me to come here.
Finally got my hands on Figma Archer a few days ago.I'm going to put together an UBW base for the figure. Here's what I managed to get done in a day, just some swords. If I can get Shirou I can even recreate that one scene. On the far left is a WIP attempt to make Hrunting arrow, but that shit is really damn complex.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Hey guys, I have two extra LInks, and I wanted to give them the Red / Blue tunic. Is the Citadel from Game Workshop paint okay to use on figma?
This will be my first project
The source of ur pic uses Citadel paints, he also painted a samus w/ citadel paints too i think.
I was thinking of doing the same thing, you don't have to sand anything correct? and after u paint the soft plastic of its tunic u gotta seal it or else it cracks right?
I made a very tiny arm / face swap with both Aegis figures. Thought it turned out for the best.
Original for reference
New body frame, and head shots.
Going to do the front body/arms tomorrow.
Finished my Big Boss head for my Inflames Metal Boss. I don't really care if its innacurate to Ground Zeroes and its the Phantom Pain head, I still love it.
The heads actually a custom sculpt from Numo on ebay, its about a 25 dollar head, not bad for 1/6. Its just the suit that came with the Inflames Metal Boss Armor Version. I had to rig up a neck from another Hot Toys neck I got which was too big.
I actually did, but I dont wanna make it too thick. Its 1/6th scale.
Anyone have any clever ideas on how to make swappable eyes without having a completely different head?
I'm in the planning phase of something and I am not sure I want to make a whole new head for what is basically a minor change.
Maybe you could try something like the Love Machine figma, where the face has eye holes and different plates to insert.
Sorry for asking here, but what absolute naked body i can use for revo qb figures?
Got a Figma parts-question.
I'm considering getting some Figma hands and bare feet to make epoxy-casting copies in different gestures/configurations (using wood epoxy for the material and silicone rubber-based mold-making material from local hobby store). Examples of what I want to make the hands and feet do are things like the clit-thumb hand gesture or making feet standing on the tip-toes like when someone reaches up high. How safe (if at all) is it to do a quick submerging of the Figma hands/feet in boiling water to make them pliable enough for getting the poses/gestures? I'm just getting back into toys after about a decade of ceasing any collecting or playing with them and don't have any Japanese figures other than a used-up Kaiyodo Naru Narusegawa I got third-hand off Ebay cheap.
Thanks anon! Come next paycheck I'll snag a hands-pack and start there. Currently making molds over Naru's feet and will try bending the epoxy castings during their hardening time when they're solid enough to not smoosh easily but still have good plasticity for warping/bending/stretching. Only downside to wood epoxy is it takes a few days after the 2hour hardening for the material to fully cure into a rigid state for sanding and such. Pain in the ass, but if you need just a LITTLE more bend or warping just slightly you can add just a bit before the 2-3 day full-cure.
Second question, are Figma feet's peg holes compatible with 6mm Revoltech joints' pegs?
I bought pic related and I want the green parts to glow in the dark. Is there any paint that goes on clear or do I have to just get some green glow in the dark paint and hope it's the exact same color?
Different epoxies have different hardening and full-curing times. In my experience, the wood epoxy gives you quite a bit of time for working on parts. Once you mix your chosen amount, it takes 20-25 minutes of it being just sticky mush before it then becomes firm and more solid. The window there before it gets too rigid for major bending or whatnot is about 5minutes tops. After that, like I said, the advertised 'full cure' is supposed to be 2hours from the time you first hand-mixed it, so roughly 1hr 30min after the 'firmness' window is available. But for best results, let it set I disturbed for a day or two for it to be much more solid. Wood epoxy has a strength advertised at about 900PSI, but you fingernail can still leave an indentation in it if you press hard into it (even after the 1-2 day extra curing). It carves pretty decently with a box-cutter or exacto knife, sands well with sandpapers, and is light-weight.
Steel Stik and Quick Steel epoxies have a working time (once mixed) of about 5 minutes before they begin to cure, with curing taking roughly an hour or so. Your warning for the working time ending is if those two epoxies start getting hot to the touch as a part of their chemical reaction for curing. They have the same advertised strengths as wood epoxy, but are denser and are a lot more rigid. All three types I mentioned can be drilled and dremelled, though you'll need a decent metal file to shave serious amounts after they cure, along with cleaning the ridges of the file from the residue that'll build up from filing them. If you are making castings, wood epoxy gives you plenty of time to make sure it's all set and ready with now air bubbles. The steel epoxies must be done and ready in their molds ASAP, and only use rubbery or silicone types of molds so the epoxies don't bond to them.
I was wondering, is there something like a blank figma figure that can be used for customising?
Like something with a blank face you can put your own stickers on to make your own character.
I saw this awesome custom Tailred figure, and I want to try making my own.
I'm looking to expand my custom making tools and would like to know if anyone has any suggestions for stuff they really like to use.
1) Magnifying glass stand with light.
2) Face mask for lacquer, that keeps out cancer.
3) Cheapest makeup brushes, for cleaning.
so a very thin layer would be pretty much clear? Also, is it completely necessary to use the paint on a white surface? every video I see shows it being applied to white. I just want to apply it directly to the green on the figure
I dunno about this exact one, maybe they've come up with some new shit, but every GITD paint I've used has seen semi-translucent at best. It might make the green areas look kind of milky-whitish. If you feel like taking a chance, go for it. You can always test it on something else first, like some old toy you don't care about. You should also experiment with mixing the GITD paint with a little bit of green paint (or maybe even green food coloring) to see if it will blend in better. Again, test these things on some other toy before you put it on your Samus.
The thing is, the glow-in-the-dark-ness comes from the phosphorescent pigment, which is normally a whitish-greenish color. So the more layers of it you paint onto Samus's green parts, the brighter the glow will be, but at the cost of Samus's green bits looking more dull. Conversely, if you only do a very thin layer, Samus's green will be perfectly visible, but the glow will be very weak. So it's a tossup, really.
For the makeup brushes, go to a dollar store. They have a ton of good throwaway brushes for dirt-cheap prices. The nail-sanding blocks are also surprisingly handy - a block of slightly squishy foam coated with fine-grit sandpaper, so it sort of conforms to what you're sanding.
the best brushes for cleaning are regular paint brushes.
Stiff enough to scrub out any dust and yet gentle enough to not remove any dried paint layer or break any needle thin antennas.
Thick brushes generally aren't good for getting into little crevices, i find. They usually requires multiple passes and have damaged some of my models before. Make up brushes are for carrying a lot of powder onto relatively wide smooth faces.
Most paint brushes for house painting are thin in order to get into the fine grain of wood and other small detailed areas, which is why they're perfect for cleaning toys.