FAQ thread where you can ask to Joseph A. McCullough, Frostgrave designer (forum handle joe5mc)
Online warband creator
Warhammer Townscapes: old school Warhammer Fantasy print buildings
20x Soldiers and a lot of bits
Don't forget - you can use any miniatures from any manufacturer, regardless of their race - just make them obvious what they are.
>6 special treasure token - 3 per player
>Various spooky skeletons
>10 inch+ high tower and enough broken wall sections to make a 12x12 ruined building
>Zone mortalis kind of board + 4 doorways
>1x giant worm
>6 small buildings without roof
>4x 2" diameter discs
>6 columns or ruined columns (or re-use the statues)
Topic of the thread:
En. Fucking. Joy.
Also, what cheap terrain have you found lately?
I've found a bucket of plastic elves and shit, same style as those traditional army men, with sandbags, a bridge, some rocks, and a gravestone.
Oh, and pillars.
Just a few rules questions to get us started. I haven't had a chance to play yet, but I would like these answered.
Is the +1 fight for wielding 2 weapons in the soldiers profiles already? Like with the treasure hunter?
What exactly are the benefits of wielding a staff and 2h weapon on a wizard? If my wizard is wielding a staff and 2h weapon, is my opponent getting -1 damage while I am getting +2 damage?
Moving out of combat? I know first action must be a move, but if your stuck in combat, does that mean your move is forfeit?
When creatures move randomly can they move off the table, or do they stop at the edge?
Are there any situations in which Will is used against anything other than spells?
A figure carryaing treasure can leave on any edge or just your own?
Are figures measured from the base or center of model? Most people seem to base on 25mm rounds. but in the rulebook all the minis seem to be on reaper style bases.
When shooting at a target, do you shoot against the targets modified fight (which includes like dual wielding weapons or magic weapons)?
When i embed enchantment on something, does it take up the soldier's available items slot?
When you successfully cast spells and when they grant you xp: does your apprentices cast spells count? Do out of game spells count?
Here is what I am thinking of. I want the benefits of races to be situational and slightly beneficial. That way they still provide something different, without creating a significant advantage. The nice thing about this system, is since it uses a D20, a +1 to something isn't quite as impactful as if it were to use a D6.
Dwarf: +1 to Will when resisting spell effects.
Half-orc/Orc: +1 to Fight on the turn this figure moves into combat.
Goblin/Halfling/Hobbit: +1 to Fight when getting attacked by a shooting attack.
High Elf/Eladrin: Spellcasters gain a +1 to casting rolls on buffing spells when targeting this model.
Human: Once per game, gain +2 to any one roll of any type.
Half-elf/Wood Elf: When making a second move, you gain +1" of movement, while not carrying treasure.
Ogre/Half-ogre/Goliath: When wounded, you only suffer -1 to all rolls instead of -2.
From what I understand, the game lends itself to lots of terrain. I am planning on buying more Hirst Arts molds and making some ruins. I already own about 5 scifi ones, and have been looking into expanding into fantasy. Pic related is made from just one of the molds.
The problem is that you're creating "best" options for different types of goons, even if the benefits are situational or small it encourages people to figure out the good combos and you lose the charm of using whatever miniatures you want for no real gain.
Make the abilities some kind of veteran perks or something instead so that players can get them on any miniature. Instead of races you can give them descriptors like tough, lucky, stubborn or fierce.
You can not have too much terrain. We play on a board that's mostly buildings (2-5 stories) and narrow alleys, with some walkways at different levels between roofs etc.
Since the game uses true line of sight, having just a few tall buildings end up being worse than having no buildings at all since they dominate the board too much and make missile wizards and ranged goons way, way better than they're supposed to be. It also encourages tabling attempts over grabbing treasure and running for it.
To me the biggest failure of the rule book is that it doesn't stress the need for terrain enough, just some offhand comment about not having too many places with more than a foot or two of line of sight.
Every time I see some battle report or video people play on a board that's okay for 40k, and Frostgrave just doesn't play well under those conditions.
1) For henchmen, the stats for having those weapons are included in their profile. It would allow you to equip them with either type of weapon (dagger or hand weapon) of a magic sort if you found them (but only 1, as per the rules).
2) Having 2 weapons on a wizard would mean you'd get to choose which one applies in a situation. It would allow you to carry a casting staff for spell use say, or to use it when your HP are low and you are worried 1 extra point of damage would put you over the top.
I'd say a house rule of 'when combat begins, a wizard/apprentice carring multiple weapons which cannot be weilded at the same time must choose which weapon to use in that round of combat' would be the best solution.
3)That is correct, if you are engaged in hand to hand combat you normally cannot move out of it. If you win the combat against a lone opponent you can elect to push them back 1" (putting you out of combat so you can then move). With multiple attackers, you are kind of stuck without outside aid (such as someone using magic to move you or the attackers out of contact).
4) They can move off the table as a random movement if they don't have any enemy models within 10 inches. You can always make a house rule to keep them on the board if you wish for more mayhem (a good option, in my opinion).
5)None currently, although custom scenarios might come along (or a future expansion might introduce something along the lines of morale). Feel free to discuss 'break and flee' rules however, if you so wish!
6)According to the rulebook, you may leave any table edge except for your opponent's table edge. Scenarios might limit this further, however.
7)The rules don't seem to specificly state either case - probably intentionally so that you could use a variety of miniatures with various bases. It would be safe to assume (for convienences' sake at least) that you measure from the edge of the model's base (whatever that is).
8) You will use the model's adjusted fight value, not their base (so after spell effects, multiple weapons, and magic items are taken into effect).
9)Yes, it becomes a magical item in all regards from what I've been able to infer from the rules (which leaves a 'grey area' of being able to swap the magic weapon into your vault for redistribution or sale. I'd suggest spending 5gp to replace said weapon if you do so - the same cost it would be to equip a wizard or apprentice with a spare weapon at creation.).
10)The rules state 'During each game' ...which is a tough bit of argument to resolve as a campain is really one long game. While you could check for official errata, I'd say yes - if the spell is succesfully cast before the game you should get XP credit for it. I'd go over it with your group just to be sure everyone agrees with such a ruling however.
Hope this helps anon!
>10)The rules state 'During each game' ...which is a tough bit of argument to resolve as a campain is really one long game. While you could check for official errata, I'd say yes - if the spell is succesfully cast before the game you should get XP credit for it. I'd go over it with your group just to be sure everyone agrees with such a ruling however.
But what about apprentice casting, do those provide XP?
Here's a bit of terrain in progress. It will be a fountain once done.
The fountain is built from the lid of a 3 dollar jewelry box (an unadorned one I found at a art shop). It's made of soft pine so it was easy to carve the grooves into it to simulate stonework.
The statue was a child's toy I painted up to look like corroded copper. The water effect is in 2 parts so far - the bottom coat was a thick layer of white glue mixed with blue and white paint. It dries in an uneven layer, making a 'ripple effect' along the bottom. The top layer is being made with the school glue on the left - which is clear. I'll have to see how the effect looks once it's dried, but it should give a clear surface for figures to be placed upon.
I plan on adding a top coat of the clear glue and a hint of blue/white paint in it, to give it an ice effect. You could also use several layers to suspend something in the glue for added visual impact (like a frozen skeleton or treasure).
Should you take an apprentice early or should you take lots of cheap fast moving stuff? I want to try knight and apothecary but it feels like a swarm of cheap fast dudes would get more board control and treasure better.
That is awesome. I'm looking forward to seeing how the water effect will turn out. I'm always looking for a cheap water effect.
Apprentice always. Without one you will find you have a disadvantage especially during the aptly named apprentice phase. Even if an apprentice never gets a spell off due to its penalty, you take one because that is 3 soldiers that go before the soldier phase. He's there for utility, not spellcasting power.
Did some custom work on my warband minis. I finally have a good use for those Bones minis. I am doing a Dwarf Enchanter.
The wizard is holding a pair of tongs with a magically imbued metal rune. The tongs and hammer count as a hand weapon and dagger. The plastic bit is from the Warhammer Runelord sprue.
I sculpted a stone beard on the stone golem figure to be his large construct. It needed to be dwarfier, and a beard was the best way to convey that. He is the Grudgebringer.
More to come of my Dwarf warband.
More converting with Bones. I love bones, so easy to convert. It's very difficult with the metal figures, which is one of the reasons I don't like metal minis.
The Templar to the left was carrying a wimpy 2handed sword. That has been replaced with a dwarfier great hammer from the Warhammer Hammerers kit.
The next 2 models are made from Reaper Derro figures, but have had beards sculpted on, and given proper dwarf rifles, from the Warhammer Thunderers kit. They are my crossbowmen.
The last derro mini was just given a beard to be a thug. These three are essentially the beardlings.
I have more reper miinis I am using, but they are being used as is with no converting.
Here is a more ambitious terrain peice, a 13" tower I'm in the process of building.
Much like Barbie's Dream House, the face (in this case, the front 2 walls) can be pulled off to reveal the interior of the tower - which has walkways and stairs made out of foamcore and a lot of glue. Still to be added will be ladders (which recent arrivals added to allow them to move around the ruined stairs) and windows and holes cut into the walls, as well as some exterior work (I want it to have spires similar to Orthanic at the end of it all).
I've sacrificed some 'realism' for ease of gameplay (if that makes sense). The stair are very broad, but this allows me to balance models on them so you don't have to leave a token or say the model is 'halfway up the stairs'. Also, all the stiars and walkways will be mounted on the back part of the tower, so you don't have to worry about models falling off as you move the section back and forth (to place minis, or to check on line of sight).
I'd like to put something suitably fantastic at the top - like a telescope or large half-ruined balcony.
How are the old GW plastic Dwarf kits to put together/kitbash with? I was planning to get a Thunderer and Warrior box plus some Dwarven enchanters from Reaper to make my warband. And a halfling thief of course.
OP, this is the OP of the last thread here.
I've got an updated OP, waiting to be used. Just copy and paste this when you're ready. http://pastebin.com/x4B4hvTM
Anyway, response to the questions... >>44814641
2: If your wizard, somehow, has three or four hands,yeah. But otherwise, you're getting only one of those.
3: For group activation?
4: Sadly, they can move off. That's why some folks make 'em pop up near the center, or something.
5: Not at the moment.
6: Any edge that's not an opponent's.
8: Yeah, you shoot against their fight.
9: Not if it's one o their items.
10: It's all cast spells. And no to OoG spells.
Gw plastic kits are great to work with. But alongside reaper they look starkly different. I say either go all gw or all reaper. The runelord mini would make an excellent wizard enchanter, and there would be a lot of extra bits from that to put on one of the warrior bodies to make an apprentice.
Reaper bones of course ate an awesome cheap alternative, and easy to convert.
Sorry, old compared to AoS 'dwarves'. The current boxes on the website.
Fair enough then.
Also saw this guy, not sure how he will scale though.
Yeah that would look like a hobbit next to gw dwarfs. But look fine with reaper dwarfs.
I have pics of my work on my blog, can't post pictures cuz on phone right now. I'm building a zone mortalis tile set. But I can't recommend hirst arts molds enough. The plaster is cheap, the ideal paint is cheap craft paint, and the best glue is school pva. They're easy to use and a lot of fun to build, like Lego for hobby gamers.
>look like a hobbit
Well, he is meant to be a thief so no worries there at least.
Reaper hasn't been 25mm since they dropped the old Heritage lines twenty years ago. Many of their dwarves are huge.
I suspect Frothers UK has a Dwarf gallery comparing the many lines.
Hmm. Well they have a couple pages featuring many Dwarf lines, but no side-by-side shots. The pages are also a bit dated, referring to the IKore Celtos Dwarf heroes as "new".
So perusing through my LGS' bones minis rack and found this bad boy. I love these minis, so cheap. The great thing about this is the backpack can separate from the dwarf.
So here's my plan, since >>44816958 is my wizard, once he reaches something like level 20, I will put the backpack on him to represent his level and power.
Me too. I'm looking forward to when he actually earns it.
About how many games do you think it takes for a wizard to get to 20? Rough estimate welcome.
Old Chaos figures, and a few oddities, as a Frostgrave warband.
Not the attire I would have chosen for an expedition into a frozen city, but that's a nice warbad.
I'm kinda wondering what people would suggest as a starter warband or 'default' arsenal of mooks.
I plan on converting some stuff to thematically fit to my wizards, but I'm not sure how many soldiers of which type I should build.
I found it instructive to start my deliberations with what MtG players used to call a "degenerate" build: Wizard, Apprentice, and all of one type of soldier. Preferably one from the middle of the list, like Infantryman. Then look at what such a list *doesn't* have, and start swapping for those things.
You can also look at your already available minis assign them to the soldier types, and just roll with it regardless on that first game.
Another way to approach building the models, assuming you have the plastic box of Frostgrave soldiers or something similar, is to build one of each of the expensive guys (down to Treasure Hunter or so), then build one or two of each from there down.
I've gotten really interested in Frostgrave, currently trying to get my friends to jump in as well. Hoping if I can get a board put together it'll get them a little interested in starting a warband. So I scooped up some of the Fat Dragon Games sets, and have been putting them together here and there for a bit of scenery. Super easy to make(and pretty fun to), here are a couple I just did a few days ago. Left one is a ruined house, its got multiple windows and a doorway on the first floor, along with a chimney and a little second story landing. One on the right is a corner of a ruined building. Both of these models have the snow layer turned on, I think they turned out pretty good. Looking forward to building the wizards tower I also bought.
I had some thick stuff at work I've been printing them on, not sure on the thickness. On the parts where it's doubled up and glued it's very sturdy, can easily hold minis. Unfortunately I don't know of any good torrents, I grabbed these while they were on sale for super cheap. Check around for the Ravenfell set, a bunch of people got that for free during Reapers last kickstarter, might be able to find that easily.
So reading through the scenarios from the Golem, Lich Lord, and core book, I wonder if some of these encounters should specify certain level ranges for the wizards? I can imagine some of them being a challenge for low level players, and some being a breeze for higher level ones. Like the golem scenarios, if you played through all the core book scenarios and did the golem campaign, that should be cinch. Is anyone else getting this impression?
I'm hoping in the future if he does a 2nd edition or something, he will have some sort of signifier for scenarios so we know whether or not to do them earlier or later in campaigns.
Always take apprentice and always fill out your whole warband.
Knights and templars etc are not priced in gold based on how good they are compared to thugs and soldiers, they're priced based on the fact that you only have 10 goon slots. Eventually you'll want to upgrade a few of the cheap guys to better guys when you have the gold since it's a way of improving your warband, but you absolutely don't want to be outnumbered in the beginning.
The thing is that you're not really supposed to always fight to the death. If something is out of your league you can focus on getting off the table while fucking things up for your opponent.
Also, the sheer amount of terrain you're supposed to put down on the table makes the scenarios play out differently than you might imagine from just looking at the stats of things.
Its a shame, the Henchmen/cultist kits look great but the game is giving me so many warband ideas that have nothing to do with them.
Maybe I should build them anyway as a demonstration band/NPC looters.
Guess i'll get to building some styling skeletons then.
>A ruined tower, at least 10” and 3 stories high, should be placed in the centre of the board. On either side stand two smaller ruined buildings, with walkways running from their top, to either the first or second floor of the tower. The rest of the board should be set up as normal.
So what do you guys use to play the silent tower scenario.
I'm kind of having trouble visualizing a tower with three stories that is playable from the inside and that you can connect with bridges to the surrounding buildings.
Guess something like half a ruined tower with it's innards exposed on one side and big windows on each side should work, but I'm not sure how big I should make a tower like that.
How much room would you want on the inside to play?
Also remember there is always at least 1 opponent (who should be about your level of experience) to factor into the challange level of these scenarios. This in itself makes any encounter that could force you to take your attention off an opponent wizard a potentially lethal one for your warband.
I'm building this specificly for this scenario, although I'll sometimes put it on the board in games that don't require it (as I'll be dumping quite a bit of work into it).
I think it would be important to not forget the 2 shorter towers that connect to the different floors of the center tower. All the towers have the magic null field, and the 2 other towers provide a different route to get to the top of the center tower so you dont end up with a king of the hill fight at the bottom floor of the center tower.
I just kind of pictured the other buildings to be ruined homes or taverns surrounding the tower in the 'cityscape'.
Over time the few people exploring the city might have build walkways and stuff in order to avoid the streets which might or might not be filled with undead.
I haven't read Lichelord or the short stories yet, so I'm only going off my imagination of what the city of Felstad might be like.
Found this buried in the forums:
Frostgrave: Sellsword (ebook mini-supplement, Jan 2016)
Frostgrave: Dark Alchemy (ebook mini-supplement, Apr 2016)
Frostgrave: Into the Breeding Pits (Jul 2016)
Frostgrave: Arcane Locations (ebook mini-supplement, Sep 2016)
Frostgrave: Forgotten Pacts (Nov 2016)
The forums seem pretty thin on pictures of the Silent Tower as interpreted by the many terrain builders there, which is a shame.
10" tall makes it a significant undertaking, which might explain the relative paucity of examples.
Yeah. I've been thinking about getting some of the Pegsus Hobbies ruin kits and just use those to build the thing.
I'm really not sure how big it should be inside and how to do the thing about adding bridges to it.
Wish there were references or something like that around.
I got one of those Dreadstone Blights from GW. You could kinda say it has three stories if you count the platform I guess...
I think those walls are modular so I could try to cast some more and build it higher or something, but I'm not really too enthusiastic about that either.
Yeah, though I'm thinking long term and good looking. Same reason I'm not really enamored with the paper terrain. Nice graphics and all, but the walls are too thin for stonework.
Everytime i'm in a supermarket i'm tempted to pick some up just for that.
Or plastic plant pots. I imagine they might hold up better and I like the conical shape a bit better.
You can cover the outside with plaster or something like clay, there are a bunch of comparable things on the market these days.
Once you got the thing covered, let it dry and then start carving stonework into it with an old knife or something.
Works pretty well. Have seen a pretty good tutorial on the technique from a guy doing LotR Gondor ruins for the GW games.
Wouldn't textured grey paint also work if its meant to be one of those smooth sided wizard towers?
Plant pots could work too, harder to set up an interior though. But good for something non interactive.
>Wouldn't textured grey paint also work if its meant to be one of those smooth sided wizard towers?
Yeah sure if the outside is supposed to look like it has been plastered.
I'm a sucker for stonework though. You can also get plastic sheet or foamboards with embossed textures that you could just wrap around the tower, but that obviously is gonna be a little more costly.
oh shit, i hadn't noticed. That game had some pretty decent minis. probably rare/collectible by now arent' they?
Yeah the old GW games from the 80s and early 90s like the original Space Hulk and it's expansions are ridiculously expensive on ebay these days.
Same goes probably for Warhammer Quest and the like.
So this game seemed to favor 28mm so I got 28mm figures. They came without bases, and looking online 28mm bases aren't a thing, so I stepped up to 30mm. Now I think I see that people use 25mm bases for 28mm figures. Did I fuck up?
Also, best place to buy premade terrain? So I don't dive in to halse arts thing and get in over my head.
Just go with one-inch bases. That's what I do.
As for terrain... Buy some foamcore at Michael's, or the equiv, next time it's on sale. Take a metal ruler, and measure stuff out, and you can make a boatload of it using white glue to hold it together and seal it.
Cool, I feel better now. Worst case, I'll use the 30s for my warhounds.
Speaking of which, how well do those do in play? Warhounds, I mean. Opinions? That 'degenerate' idea sounds really appealing, but I think I'm starting with 4 dogs and 4 infantrymen
I don't really like the result but the technique for making these twisted towers is interesting
Picked up an odd "paper mache" tapered tower birdhouse. Like the pic but a bit more tapered. 12 inches tall. I think I'll wrap a stairway around the outside, and try to emulate the look for the two other buildings of the Silent Tower setup.
I think I'm actually gonna make individual miniature bricks from cheap-ass clay and build structures from there with glue and a reluctance to leave the house. Anyone try that? I got 2 other people who bought historical armies to test out one's homebrew skirmishes and their forces are beautiful compared to mine, so hoping I can at least contribute by adding sweet terrain.
If you have an old school hobby shop and/or model train shop nearby, check their train related molds. The simple stuff like cast rocks can do a lot without too much expense, but the wall molds might be the ticket to making the ruins.
Alternately, drop the bones for a Hirst Arts mold. Even the cobblestone floor mold or the basic blocks and a cheap tub of plaster and you are set for staycation activities for months.
Yeah, it's what I'll probably end up doing to distract myself, those just sound like they take time, money, /and/ effort, buying plaster as well as the mould and finding a place with good conditions to keep it while it dries for it to maybe look okay from one side. I was hoping for something that let me be more productive, where I could make my tower in a few hours and then get back to writing, but there's no denying that it looks pretty decent. The store picture one, I couldn't find the one posted on the blog mentioned above.
Man. If I didn't already have some I'd totally buy these. Looks at that little lizard guy.
Normal plaster is fine for low stuff, and can be found at a Home Depot. The really high end stuff is mail order and more expensive. Most plasters, as opposed to stuff like Water Putty, dries quickly in these quantities.
Making your own terrain with self-drying materials can be done, but is far more labor and time intensive than you might think. Look as materials like DAS Pronto.
Avoid "modeling clay" like the plague. same with Play-Doh. Both will always have volatiles, and modeling clay never cures; a really warm day will make anything you make with it into a melted wreck.
Get a box of dental plaster from ebay. Should be around 35-40 with shipping
You could make a stamp out of an over fired clay like sculpey to use on foam. Alternatively take a piece of brass tubing and deform it to a rectangle with slightly rounded corners and use that as a stamp.
I haven't heard anything about this. I was considering an idea for a soldier type that takes the place of an apprentice, and acts in the apprentice phase, like a martial leader for your henchmen, I wonder if it's something similar
I read that the campaign system for this game is busted. Namely that certain kinds of wizards pretty much never get to level up (support type vs offensive type).
Is this an actual problem? We're about to start a campaign here, and the people I play with are sticklers for RAW, wondering if its worth getting involved
I can see how some have a different leveling curve than others, but even level differences don't provide a significant advantage over others. You can have a match with a 10 level difference and the lower guy still has a fighting chance. On top of that the support type wizards generally have a means of supplementing xp through some spells and making money. So it evens out on some respects.
If you're going for competitive, just keep in mind what spells you're taking and what they can do for you outside of just nuking and buffing.
That's cool as hell. The stamp thing, I mean. I really need to do that.
I'll be playing later today, necromancer with 5 man-at-arms and 3 hounds, improvised terrain, I'll do an apr if anything interesting happens.
Alright, guys. Let's do some scenario writing, or mechanic brainstorming.
I'm thinking, for scenario/campaign plans, something to do with dorfs and their trap filled mines might be appropriate. The question is, what do we do for traps and placing them?
The breeding pits will have rules for traps.
I think to do something with traps, you would need trap markers placed allover by both players, and being near one activates it, and you roll on a table. Thieves and treasure hunters would get bonuses to disarming them.
Dwarves like treasure, right? So, they'd probably place their booby traps near treasure to keep people from stealing it.
So, when a model picks up a treasure token and roll a die. On a 15-20, they trigger a trap.
Now we need kinds of traps.
Both are reasonable.
Perhaps two trap markers per player, as well as the rolled ones with treasure?
As for types...
Basic shooting. Probably +2-6, ranging from crossbow bolts to flamethrowers.
Pit trap, of course, with a marker to indicate the figure is 'down'. And/or that there's a pit there.
Magical confusion traps? Makes the target act in the creature phase, like a monster, if they
fail to make a Will roll.
Sounding decent so far?
Also, FFS. First writing up a Sergeant hireling, now this.
We'll need creatures, too. Probably a table of constructs, a couple of skeletons/zombies, and a few mad dwarves, no?
Insane Dwarf Warrior
M 5/F +2/S +0/A 12/W +0/HP 8
Armed- Carries a Crossbow and a 2 handed weapon. Wears mail armor.
Dwarf- Hardy folk, a dwarf treats their armor as 2 higher for poison effects.
Mad- This creature cannot be affected by Monstrous Form or Beauty.
How's that look, for a baseline?
Do my dwarf soldiers get the dwarf trait for free? Not gonna lie, either way I don't care for that bit. Not sure we should dump on illusionist any more than the xp system already does, either. Statline looks fine, though
There is a writeup about the general idea of the book (which I can't seem to link directly due to it being detected as spam).
Search for frostgrave-sellsword.html.
It's not much info, but it does give you an idea of what they are.
Make the stamp kind of convex like in the pic to avoid having an obvious edge imprint like would likely appear if you use a flat stamp
You could probably copy and modify Mordhiem and Necromunda scenarios
dead-fall traps are much easier to make than a pit trap.
You could add some non-trap hazard in old Dwarf mines based on http://www.msha.gov/sosa/facts.asp
For a mechanic, maybe have a dozen or so tokens placed face-down on the table, when a figure touches the token, flip it over, most are dummy counters but a handful are a hazard or trap.
Mine dust can settle on water and make (especially in the dark) the surface appear to be solid ground. A figure steeping onto a hidden flooded shaft might waste a turn getting out, assuming they can swim. Alternatively, there's a lot of really finely broken rock around which makes a sticky clay-like slime when it's mixed with water. This slime collects in low points. Falling into a slime-filled sump would be like quicksand which can and has killed people
As for what a typical modern mine looks like, I used to work at >>44842535. An old mine would be similarly muddy, it would lack the wire mesh & rock bolts. Just add wooden timbers here and there. Old ground support was much more sparse than in modern mines
and then there's this. See page 2.
I don't think it needs one, unless it's replacing the apprentice's activation. The game is fairly balanced and built around the wizard-apprentice-soldiers-creatures phases, and adding an additional phase would just fuck things up even further, primarily making it necessary for players to bring at least 1 captain, instead of an optional thing.
Know of anyone that doesn't bring an apprentice? Neither do i.
Apprentice may be optional, but he even says in the book it provides a lot of benefits, and the game is balanced around it.
Not going to argue, though I could see getting some version of Group Activation as one of his Tricks. He would still be part of the Soldier phase, but could coordinate some of the mooks.
You see, if they stayed in the soldier phase, then I think it would be fine. Although that would make group activation for him pointless, lol. I just think adding an additional phase for the captain would change things quite a bit.
Not really. Just used differently. Mob ups would no longer require the presence of the Apprentice.
Really, if is just one of the options for his Tricks, it will depend on the other Tricks to be really useful or really tricky to use. He could also have a greater radius with it.
Just speculation at the moment. We'll know for sure in a couple days.
Probably has to do with the differences between their attitudes and /tg/s when it comes to 40k. Healthy criticism to one is unmitigated faggotry to the other. Remember where we are...
Well that may explain it, I don't go into 40k threads on either website.
When it comes to Warhammer Fantasy they seem to broadly agree, just with fewer people being called autistic there.
I remember when I moved to Warseer in about 2005 after the official GW forums closed. I don't go anywhere near any discussion threads, but the Project Logs section is brilliant, a lot of talent and also a lot of earnest, inspiring effort.
Pretty much. But much simpler, an emphasis on wizards being leaders of the warbands, and with a vague setting so you can pretty much set it wherever you want, whether it's in warhammer, skyrim, etc.