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So what are y'all anons WIP projects for the weekend ?
Mine finally arrived and can't wait to paint this beauty.
my friend gave me boxes of spare nid parts, so I made a spare nid
Hey /tgitz, WIP of my three big tanks from my tank boyz army, Mek Grimgobz Steel Fists.
Just a little more riveting and they'll all be ready to paint for their first game (bar the dakka-junka) tomorrow.
Got a Master's kit off Amazon. They are cheap but work well enough. Better to start with something cheap so if you fuck up it's easy to replace.
Meh. I have an extra siphon airbrush for priming and basecoating large batches of minis or vehicles. To be fair I don't do much else with my airbrush anyway because I just don't like the style.
Help me out here, fa/tg/uys
I bought myself aspace marines starter painter set about two years ago
I've only opened a couple of pots once, and its been left sitting since then. I just opened my imperial primer, and after stirring the goop inside its grainy as all fuck. Is the consistency supposed to be lke this, or has the paint just dried out?
primer is like that, its meant to provide a more surfaced grip for your paints. even fresh primer is clumpy as fuck. i try to scoop out a clump and mix it with water and mash it in my pallette to get a workable paint
for all your paints, give em a good shake before use, they tend to seperate
I see. I don't actually work on minis, just needed the paints for some detail work.
I was thinking of using the imperial primer as a substitute for black paint, since I only have lacquer black, but I guess its not happening.
Acrylic spray paint primer only. Never look back.
Telling a newbie to paint with clumpy paints is like...
Well, anon, since you're a newbie, just get some decent paints to give yourself half a chance to liking this hobby.
If you stat with some fucked up stuff to begin with, you're just giving yourself a headache and will discourage you.
Reposting my shitty cobold, cause I need an advice.
I decided to paint over that "wannabe steel armour" pattern and paint a carapace similar tyranid one (with diagonal stripes). What colour would fit to that mini (which is mostly jade green, and brown). I was thinking about either red/orangge or pale blue.
What are anon opinions/advice.
had to look up what that was in relation to models, candy coated eldar or necrons when?
gundam modeling looks pretty cool from what i've seen from the pics in the plamo threads on /toy/ but they look like they cost a fortune
That varies quite a bit, depending on the "grade" of the kit. There are cheaper lower detail kits, and super detailed kits that cost hundreds of dollars each. Most aren't that expensive for their size, as they are mass-produced and in plastic.
Its really just personal preference, but lacquer based primers bonds with the plastic better or so I've heard, curing to a more resistant surface.
Its probably really cheap in comparison to GW models, but if you live anywhere outside of Asia shipping will probably bump the price up quite a bit.
I figured I'd post the start of the inverterra army. Most of the models will feature the zandri dust, so I'm going with a predominantly mephiston red bulleteers.
>tfw felt so negatively about my paint
job yesterday that now I am motivated to do more to them before my game in 8 hours.
I also have another actual bike squad (no more Dark Vengeance bikes, ever.) to put together and ten terminators on the way.
I have to get shoulder surgery next Friday and I will probably be unable to paint comfortably (or play) for at least a month
>look papa Sammael, no hands!
Gotta be honest though mate, and I'm not trying to be an asshole, but that colour scheme is atrocious. The models all look less than half-painted and you didn't even bother to 'weld' the gaps on their front mudguards and that literally takes 4 scrapes with the hobby knife.
>tfw my Sammael lost a hand as well.
Yeah I already realized I messed up this army. I like the color scheme myself, just wish it was painted better. It is fun and my own.
As far as modeling goes I dropped the ball big time. Part of wants to go back and fix the mold lines, the other wants to push onward. Any paint besides the command squad, IC and purple on 1/2 of the Landspeeders are only one coat.
I have to do all the tires as well. The guy at my LGS said a heavy black wash over grey primer makes the tires look fine but they look like shit so am going to make them black and wait till I decide what base I am going to use to drybrush them.
All's fine as long as you like it.
I'm currently in the process of repainting a lot of my Ravenwing and adding to it so I know that it takes a lot of resolve to put your minis into the cleaning tub.
You can always buy dragon dildos for €20, slice them in half and mount them on flyer bases. But yeah if I played 30k I'd have them as well.
At least I've got the only hoverbike available in 40k.
Start black, drybrush blueish grey, dust with pigment, then rub off pigment on raised surfaces.
These are actually for my Star Phantoms army. They fit in with the "Strike Hard and Fast" kind of ideals that they hold.
So can someone give me the rundown on glazes? Am I supposed to apply the glaze while the paints still wet and mix it around, or apply the glaze after every coat of shading so that it mixes them together after it dries?
>one year in hobby
>still can't prepare a proper wet palette (I proably never made a good one since paints've been drying same day I set it up anyway and water was sucked form them instead of getting hydrated)
>can't thin my paints properly, it's either to thinned and runs form details I want to pick (or it's barely visible and looks like a watermark) or it's too thick and I can't paint a single straight line because it stays on brush
>still can't figure out how to use glazes properly
>still can't figure out how to drybrush properly
>I consider it my hobby but it usually drives me crazy and l end up dissapointed instead of beeing chilled, happy or acomplished
>I'll probably throw away all my minis and gib boxed one to some paiting studio to have something to put on shelf
I just wanted to say it to someone, no need to reply
Besides the drybrushing and last part, are you me?>>44643183
I can't post a WIP without everyone telling me my colors are awful so I get no real critique on anything technical (blahblahblah Color Theory is technical. No shit but I have heard it all already.). I find it is best to admire but not envy the artwork you see here. I am glad to field an Army that I put the time into, even if it doesn't look the best. It does hurt my motivation to continue work but in the end I figure I have to finish it and learn my lessons before trying again on my larger Necron force.
My last four games were against grey armies and they can't talk say anything. Even my poorly painted three color, heavily washed army adds something to the table. When I am standing above the table I know which units are mine and they stand out.
Keep in mind that this is the internet, and everyone is anonymous (or is it Alpharius?).
Wanting critique to improve your technique is commendable.
But unfortunately, this is still mostly the internet, and 4chan at that.
As long as you enjoy your army, then that is sufficient.
Most of us are not grand-master painters, even though we like to pretend we are.
>still can't prepare a proper wet palette
Make sure you aren't using waxed sheets
>can't thin my paints properly
Load a different amount of paint on the brush, if you're using synthetics get real brushes
>still can't figure out how to use glazes properly
See previous point
all kind of baking paper I can get is either waxed or have a thin layer of silicone on it. Where can I get a proper paper for it?
and when it comes to brushes I have a medium shelf ones, some from GW and some form AP, and one kolinsky sable I got in AP bundle.
Is it worth to upgrade to fabled W&N 7? What sizes should I get?
>using synthetics get real brushes
Not him but are citadel brushes "real"? 7/12 of my brushes are Citadel.
I took shit care of them too I really should just buy a whole lot of new brushes instead of one at a time. Then I just use the nice new brush till it gets frayed.
WARNING: BRUSH GORE
You put too much paint on them. they fray like that when the bottom part gets too much paint it in and it solidifies and thus expands between the base of the bristles. take less paint on them and clean the well in water. also dry them well.
May get some. Didn't think of that. Would Isopropyl Alcohol 91% work?
Does shampoo work? Probably after I clean them with above.
I always overthin my paints and the brushes suck it right up. I am horibly guilty of never
evercleaning them properly.
IPA will get the paint off, but it'll also dissolve the glue keeping your bristles in. So you may not want to do that.
Brush soap is quite mild, it'll take the paint out, but actually condition the bristles a little bit.
Isopropyl might damage some brushes, I've used Shampoo since a friend of mine said she uses it to clean makeup brushes after work, I use actual paintbrush cleaner and preserver now but it worked wonders before.
I should really get paid for all the shilling I'm doing. Get this, use it, never look back.
Acrylic film from masterson is something that is intended for wet palettes but it's obviously pricier than parchment paper.
I'm not familiar with army painter brushes, but in my opinion there's no point buying a cheap brush unless it's for drybrushing or liquid masking etc.. Sizes 0-2 for infantry models.
I've never had good experiences with citadel brushes, but at least (some) of them are natural hair ones. IF you're going to buy the new GW brushes get the layer brushes, the "glaze" and "shade" brushes they have are synthetics.
Clean your brushes with brush soap every time you're done painting.
Anybody here try Testors paint? How has it gone?
So I finished painting my hormagaunts in Leviathan colors. They're not bad and I've gotten a few compliments. But they still have a clay-like texture. Will a final wash make them smoother? What color should I use?
Kitbashed a Chaos Sorcerer from Posessed, GK, and Terminator bits. He'll be using Biomancy, hence the mutation, but any suggestions on how to paint his tentacle and fleshy spider legs? I'm using a blue, green and silver Alpha Legion color scheme.
Anything to do for these guys or is this the best I can expect?
Thin your paints a bit, also try a wash of carroburg crimson in the recesses. I'd honestly suggest not going full on white but rather using an off-white colour for the skin. Also, your paint lid isn't on correctly.
Lord Duncan does a tutorial on Tyranids' Maleceptor, he does the same scheme as you, just scale it down.
You can try giving the chitinous parts a thinned gloss varnish and I can't really tell from the image, but don't paint pure white. Use offwhite, light grey for the basecoat and progressively whiter highlights.
anyways here a pic of the boys
ignore the shitty bases
I also picked up a tervigon for super cheap off a guy (30$) and i wanted to spruce it up a bit.
ideally i want the model to have a non black carapace. any suggestions?
Hey /wip/, I made these mek guns (custom mega-kannons). They're my first ever conversion if only because the price of the normal guns is out of control.
What do you think? Are these be acceptable as stand ins for mega-kannons?
I recommend you apply paint to the areas you want to have a different colour.
No but seriously, if you want it a lighter colour, paint a brown, grey or whatever basecoat over it and layer up. Or just strip it outright because that looks like literally basecolour+wash, no highlights and a very sloppy carapace.
hive fleet kraken has red plates with white skin
hive fleet behomoth has dark blue plates with red skin
hive fleet leviathan has purple plates with white skin
no black in the main fleets
but most people will paint the chitin dark, almost black, but that aint no thang since you can do them bright if you want to.
but you can always say fuck it and make your own hive fleet (im a sucker for murky green plates and tan skin)
I am not trying to start a fight but i have to know why people cringe when you say you are going to paint metal with non-metalic paints? this just happened when I went to the GW shop to get my paints.
Just got my first Malifaux box for Christmas. I've finished all the assembly.
Is there a "starter kit" for painting that you all would recommend? I've never painted a miniature and I'm not sure where to really begin.
I've seen that Army Painter has a kit with paints and brushes. Is that recommended?
Do you not live near a GW store, or any FLGS that sells citadel paints? The Kislev is a more flesh coloured paint while Rakarth is a pale-white tone, it's probably eaiser for the sake of consitency to just use that if you can.
Shit it's been awhile since I painted anything. More Blood Angels.
Still wip, not sure if I like the highlighting on the black...
are you clowns in the boonies? where a half-hour drive is something to look forward to, to relieve the monotony of your grey lives? a fucking 30 minute trip in the city needs to be JUSTIFIED, you're either elbow to asshole with the unwashed masses on public transpo (which will also triple your travel time to 1.5 hours) or starring in your very own mad max sequel. walking distance, I could see your point.
pretty much the poster child for why it is important to get well-lit photos of your minis. some blurry/grainy/dark pictures people post, you can tell it's shit anyways so who cares, but it looks like there is a legitimately good paintjob on the other end of the camera here.
Thanks mate, I need to get some wash for the blue on the armour before I can start it, and I still need to glaze and glosscoat the helm. Gonna try those decals it came with.
Think I'll buy another box of these guys, having a lot of fun with painting them. But fuck gluing those arms on, that was hard.
I like it, drill your bolter though. There's a few spots missing but since it's WIP I won't nitpick too much. Have you tried using screemer pink and pink horror for your wax on Blood Angels? It helps them stand out from the red on their armour.
I love it when I'm starting to paint a difficult section of a model and my dog starts to loudly slurp his balls.
>Anybody here try Testors paint? How has it gone?
It is not at all suited for use on miniatures for wargames.
Orkin' up a rhino into a Looted Waggon, to join my looted russ and bassilisk.
Still torn between using a battelwaggon turret or the predator one.
Predator to reinforce the looted look, BW turret.. because the predator turret has puny little guns, unworthy of bein' called a Killkannon.
Starting work on a Sentinel. I hate painting these damn things.
>OOP METAL Eldar Phoenix Lord Jain Zar Storm of Silence Pro Prepared
>It's an Eldar Warlock with singing spear
Are you fucking kidding me
Robes. Fucking kill me. Got 9 more of these cunts to do.
Awesome. Need more pictures of this.
That's pretty mad looking. Very nicely looted.
>Still torn between using a battelwaggon turret or the predator one.
Use the Predator turret but add like 4 other barrels to it. Make up for it's lack of girth, with a excess of amount.
It's the proper orky thing to do!
you'll probably need brighter highlights on that green so it doesn't look too dark/muddy next to robes that white. nice work on the robes though, they have a nice sense of volume (beyond the obvious fact it's a 3d object)
This is as good as i can do on robes. if i try to highlight then the paint always gets into the recesses and fucks it up.
I've found drybrushing robes works pretty well, I'd get a picture but I'm not at home. It comes with the downside that you either need to be neat or do the robes first which you then risk fucking up when painting other parts of the model.
Ta, there's at least one plus of my compulsive purchasing over every pre-owned ork lot.
Thanks, I figured I had to go heavy as the rhino chassis is pretty monolithic in design and not receptive to light handed conversions.
>Use the Predator turret but add like 4 other barrels to it. Make up for it's lack of girth, with a excess of amount.
That's a possibility, it's already got the mounts for double heavy bolter so I could do a mini mammoth thing.
Posted this in the Age of Sigmar thread but it may be more relevant here.
Just got into the hobby and painting. Looking for some tips and improvements going forward for the rest of my Khorne Bloodbound,
So, how's the quality on Raging Heroes resin? I always tend to buy their shit in white metal due to me being nostalgic.
Looks pretty solid anon, hang in there, you can do this.
Really good for someone who started recently. You can easily improve that paintjob by giving his skin a thinned down wash with reikland flesh. Also a few careful highlights on his pants and weapons will look great. Try your hand and this, be careful and take your time, that's the most important part of any paintjob.
I'm still busy with me ECs, my progress is painfully slow. At least it'll be hopefully be done by monday.
This Vargard Obyron was half off because of a damaged box and this warped staff so I scooped it up. Any tips on fixing this?
Very solid first minature. I'd probably give the horns a wash of something like Agrax Earthshade and then highlight with a lighter colour and this is more of a nitpick but the shade of red feels a bit too bright, Khorne Red with highlights of Kindleflame might work better. Also, no BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD technical paint for a Khorne army? Shame.
Dip it into hot or boiling water. Resin becomes bendy and malable when exposed to high temperatures. Put it into the shape that you want it to be and wait for it to cool down for about 5 minutes.
Don't paint white.
Try using off-white colours, stuff like Ulthuan Grey. I think even the new Ceramite White isn't actually white but a slightly off-white. Also THIN YOUR FUCKING PAINTS.
Hey, thanks. I had intended to just leave the green the way it was. Kind of plain and dull looking, as bright, polished armour doesn't mesh entirely with how I picture the Dark Angels in my head.
But I definitely see what you're saying about it maybe looking to dark/muddy compared to the much lighter robes. So yeah, maybe the green does need a lighter highlight just so it doesn't end up looking to black. Cheers for the advice.
>if i try to highlight then the paint always gets into the recesses and fucks it up
This is the exact problem I was expecting to run into with the robes. I think I managed to avoid it well enough on the legs, but I need to fix up the chest a bit.
What kit is that power fist from? It's not one I recognise. (I do like the two tone look you went for, as well. Might have to steal that.)
I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
Good start, for a newbie. You can paint within the lines neat enough, so well done.
I think the model would benefit greatly from a wash of some description. Especially the helmet. After that, some highlights would really help bring your model up to the next level.
Some kinda sale or pricing error but either way $100+ brush set on sale for $17.50
I know Marines always look silly, but this dude...
I'm painting these same miniatures and your post inspired me to post my progress aswell. Started painting last fall, hope to get some feedback.
exclusive space marine from when they relaunched the site
he's always been
a big guy
Alright, one foot in front of the other and you call it walking!
I was a bit bummed out yesterday because my lack of interest in the hobby had dropped. But today I manned up, and just took a bite!
Did 2 legs now, and finished one of all the magnetized weapons. Already had the front finished, and will now turn and do a corner + another leg tomorrow. Just one step at a time, and Ill get back in to it I hope!
Thanks! I'm keeping the spirit alive by doing one set somewhat finished at a time. This way I get an idea of how the finished model will look when all ready.
When loosing focus and put down the brush half way in, as I have on just about every project during the past few months, its hard to see the end result doing one color at a time. This trick lets me have some of the good feeling you get when you finished a project, yet still keep on painting!
Its German gray from Vallejo on a black primer, highlighted with light gray from the same, and finally nudged with 50/50 white/light gray, I swabbed the whole tank in nuln oil and water mix, and later Ill ad some edge of almost pure white, and silver on the thorn parts.
Its all painted with the hairspray technique, doing a base of different browns and rust colors. Then "re-basing" with black after 2-3 layers of hairspray, working myself up to the gray I want. When dry, go over the whole miniature with a wet (and not in use) toothbrush, working with a small wet brush in between, and you get a great realistic weathering effect.
Thanks guys, I'm gonna grab some washes at my FLGS tomorrow and start a new one. I tried to improvise some of the colors but it just didn't work out. Seems I can't escape having to buy citadel paints if I want my minis to be truly awesome.
Those look awesome dude! Glad I inspired you to post.
is it possible to have 40K world eaters that are ranged fluffwise?
Working on these Mage Hunters. The cloaks are almost done but I dont know if I want to paint a pattern on them. Thoughts?
WIP Ork biker boss, regular biker boy for scale
>Anyone have the guide of how to paint white?
>The one with the sanguinary priest?
Do not waste what The Emperor provides!
Fine for display and interesting concept. Tabletop however the dimmensions are too far off for me, yet again it would be at your loss.
He would probably crush his legs turning.
MSpaint the plan for other bits?
The two kits GW has out now for making Warbosses (that aren't Ghazz or Badtoof) aren't all tjat great.
Tell me, knowledgeable anons. What Ork kits would be good for bitz to make a proppa Orky Warboss? I'm thinking Nobz and Flash Gitz kitbashed together at this point....but I want some outaide opinion.
Don't really have a ms-paint plan, gotta cover greenstuff with armor and add smokey-bitz to the back end, and other than that, decorative bit of the front and handlebards for the warboss to hold on to.
If you are cool with Mega armor you could probably easily make the models look a little bigger by adding a few mm worth of plasticcard between the parts.
Would be the easiest way to make a bigger than usual warboss.
Aside from that I'd look into 3rd party Ogres and similar miniatures with a hunched posture that you can tack a GW ork head on.
Depending on what exactly you want of course.
Anon, they're just kobolds. They spawn in waves and die in one hit. Don't burn yourself out trying to paint them all to golden demon standard; your friends will not notice even if you did.
Like you said, their models are basically shit. So paint them to a tabletop standard and move on. Save your effort for heroes, minibosses, and bosses. The 16-bit's can get a bit of attention, too, I suppose.
tested out my first Sister today, made a bit of a mess of it. any tips at all? I know I fucked up the bolter something terrible
I've been painting minis since 1998 and there are people itt who weren't even born when I started painting and can paint better than me. That's just the way things are dawg. We can't all be born prodigies but I'm convinced everyone can learn to be good enough to enjoy painting.
It honestly sounds like you're just trying to move too fast. I still haven't tried using a wet pallette because it sounds weird and scary, when I'd only been painting for one year I was still doing a single coat of each colour over white primer. Just focus on basecoating your minis neatly, that's step one. Practice until you can do that well. Throw a brown wash over the entire thing and you're "battlefield-ready". Once you've production-lined fifty plastic dudes to battlefield-ready, think about doing a midtone/highlight.
If you aren't a prodigy then you can't rush it, it's like trying to do a guitar solo before you know how to play chords.
And don't post pics of anything (literally anything, your bike, your dog, your short, whatever) on 4chins if you aren't prepared to receive at least one awful, mean-spirited, not even remotely constructive comment, that's just the name of the game.
I used that Prime > Ulthuan Grey > Agrax wash > White Scar that Duncan used in that video, and to be fair, it's the best white I've managed sofar. is there anything I can do to the white scar to help, perhaps mix it with medium?
Holy crap putting together Skitarii infantry is brutal. You've gotta put everything together just so.
I mean holy shit they're some of the most beautiful plastic kits I've seen in a while, but goddamn it's tricky to make the cloaks line up right.
This has been a problem with GW kits since the late 2000s and it's only gotten worse with time imo, more detail, less customizeability. A duncie video made me look at DE models on their webstore and I was disgusted to note that they didn't even have head variants for plastic hq kits
>got a daylight lamp like /WIP/ suggested
>painted under it for a while
>it's so nice
>don't want to turn it off
>try to find some way to get it set up on my battlestation that won't blind me while I'm browsing
Guess I'm just gonna have to paint to get it back on.
This lamp gives me the warm and fuzzies. Thanks, /WIP/.
Yeah I've found that the arms at least can be swapped around with little issue, which is helping somewhat, but goddamn there's a couple things, like the wicked sweet looking arquebus, that definitely look samey.
I mean, it is admech so if there's any army I can get away with having uniformity, it'll be them, but still.
Makes me wonder what I've gotten myself into since I'm only about halfway through the initial 30 and have 3 "getting started boxes" that will be showing up soon.
Also, anyone know where I can get mechanicus decals in Red? I'm making metallica and their accents are red on white robes.
>get on facebook
>open up the Warhammer 40k group page
>Find the post by "Ric Standing BearCat Fernandez"
>The one of the video with the knight on it
>wonder how /wip/ hasn't figured out how to troll a new guy with this yet.
I wish I could post a direct link, words cannot describe what I just witnessed.
Literally takes a blowtorch to an imperial Knight as a painting technique. I'm not fucking joking, he fucking torches it.
Anon a year is nothing for the average person. I've been painting miniatures and models since I was 7 years old and I love to look back at my old models and see how far I've come over 15 years of painting. If you wanna improve quick in painting, work on patience. If you want some practice just grab a well sculpted figure and just practice techniques on it, like glazing and shading and NMM. After your done strip him and do it again. Its gonna take time. Alot of time. If you stick with it and practice you'll get to a point that you will like your work and you can improve past that. Also I find painting and prepping therapeutic and enjoyable, just finding time is hard. Stick with it friend, you'll do fine
anyone have good experiences with shittily painted minis from ebay? any before and after pics? Should I worry about the mini being shit under the paint? And how easy is it to remove things like arms/weapons
The one called "Warhammer 40k" with like 23 fucking thousand people in it, aka the 40k group.
And yeah, they're almost all closed. It's the only way to keep this shit from popping up on normal friends newsfeeds.
so I've done this. and to be honest it's a risk, my advice is try to keep it as cheap as possible.
Metal is always the easiest (and everyone knows this as a quick dip in turpentine an you're good to go) but can go for higher and plastic can be tricky. I love people who use the black primer and super glue on plastics they are the easiest to clean and the glue can just melt away sometimes leaving very little trace it was ever there. White primers are difficult because it is actually a primer and can be a complete pain in the ass, plastic glue needs to be broken off and does not dissolve in alcohol like super glue.
I have these scouts plastic kit that has had three different layers of paint two of them gw paint but the first coat is this really stubborn and thick stuff that needs scraping to remove. I also had a metal dread that was painted in enamel.
My method is really focus on local sources, those will give best prices <$1 per figure I then separate the ones I want, and if its a group like tactical, I test clean one. If the test goes easy I keep the group, if not I really have to consider how badly I want them. Most of the time the hard to clean get sold on auction, and let someone else deal with it. there are some auctions that for whatever reason go unnoticed and I pick those up but you really should study the market so that in case they are a pain you can easily recoup your money.
So far all of my models have been secondhand and if you count sales I've paid very little for them. sure, I lose out on custom stuff sometimes but they still look pretty good. also I stay away from finecast like the plague.
Chaos Lord (still very WIP, haven't done any tidying or anything) first time I've really attempted to do black armour with anything other than edge highlighting, trying to go for the traditional Chaos Warriors black armour with gold + silver details.
I tried my hand at a bit of lighting which I think went okay, but when I started adding the yellow and gold to the armour the contrast made the distinctions in the black harder to see.
Now I'm worried that the black and the gold will just look like ever hobbyists' first crappy attempts at black legion rather than a nicely painted model.
Should I just give up, paint the armour silver and wash it black a few times?
Back when WD was the Kool Kidz Klub ;_;
eh, the black highlights look strong enough to me in that particularly pic. Lame though the answer may be, I'd have to see the final model to tell you if the contrast is messing it up.
If you feel that it's too strong a contrast, just wash the gold with brown or sepia until it's not too much of a contrast
painting two more Vostroyans. The model behind them is one I finished earlier. The furry hat of the one I painted reminds me of Golden Gaytimes
Ok so I have the IPA and all my models ready. Is it literally just a case of submerging them and scrubbing them after an hour?
So I'm thinking about painting a Flesh Tearers army.
Sice I know there's loads of people painting BA here, do you guys think it would be possible to use the new kits for BA to make FT, with replacing the pauldrons the biggest step forward or is the winged iconography too present on the models and I'd be better off with standard marines?
It`s 40K mate. Your army can be whatever you want it to be. Remember that Khorne is the god of war, and close combat is just one aspect of warfare. Ranged weapons are also right up his alley. Just look at Skullcannons and the Lord of skulls.
While on the subject, I like the idea of a Warpsmith of Khorne who is obsessed with always making more effective weapons and warmachines to better wage war in Khorne´s glory.
There's only one way to do the lord pf skulls.
Amazon is completely fucking retarded and archaic, so how much is shipping going to be to Europe? It doesn't say it anywhere and I'm not about to drop 25$ on an amazon giftcard that turns out to be useless because the shipping costs are something retarded like 50$.
If you use the "prime" offer, not the other sellers, then shipping to the Netherlands is listed as $8,19. But it may take a week or two to arrive.
Not sure if that's just to NL, but if it applies to other countries in the EU, that's quite reasonable.
Do keep in mind that customs will probably charge you VAT and processing costs if the package is inspected (it might not be, but there's always a chance).
>It actually helps with your vitamin D absorption so it's healthy too. In parts of the world where the skies grow dark for 6 months a year, they use these light bulbs to not die.
A daylight bulb doesn't emit ultraviolet light
No, but neither do any light-therapy lamps, which is the effect described by >>44660573.
It's not necessarily vitamin D production that has that effect, but the light (which is mostly simulated sunlight, minus the UV) still has a positive effect.
by the codexs rules no... and i wanted to make some krazy khorne kannon guys....
but some "players" wouldnt mind you doing so.... but some will call the gw staff over to tell you it breaks the rules... this is the world we live in...
If you want a proper fuckhuge warboss, get either a daemon prince or minotaurs kit, assorted kan bitz and go to town. Pic very much related, the former option (which might require more removing of chaosy stuff)
Couldn't he just paint them as WE, with their heraldry and all. Then add a tiny black dot on the leg, call them the World Eeters and claim they are the World Eaters long lost cousin or something. Then play according to the 'normal' codex.
And the latter, which I think is a bit more viable with not as much converting. The daemon prince only has a torso and arms you can use and not much more than that, while minotaurs have most of the kit useable and you get three bodies and all the sweet horns and all for just a slightly higher price. Pic also related.
1of3... forgive the size/upsidedown that will happen no doubt...
Don't know anything about daylight lamps, would this one be a decent choice? http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B007F7UBJG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1452345678&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=daylight+lamp&dpPl=1&dpID=31t3glW-RFL&ref=plSrch
3of3. A lot to do... plus more oh joy. But no im glad ive returned to the hobby.
they're form SodaPop board game http://sodapopminiatures.com/game-super-dungeon-explore/
they realeased plenty of expansion sets so you might get what you need without buying a big box.
LATE CHRISTMAS PRESENT!
I was away from home for the holidays but fortunately, the parcel came through, my biggest fear being the package sent back to the sender not happening.
So, I got a nice brand new plastic farseer, loads and loads of tiny letal skulls, and strings, because, quoting anon, he "was bored on the bus and started unravelling it", and a nice letter that made me giggle a lot.
Thanks a bunch anon!
Hope you got a nice present and a happy ew year!
way too dark mang, give those fellows some colour, highlight skin, paint some checkers on choppa and shoota. What clan are they? Goffs?
And drill those barrles.
Also, I think orks looks wierd with pure white teef. Gib them an agrax wash.
Holy shit finally done scrubbing. Very pleased though, the Isopropryl worked fantastically, cut right through the paint.
Sounds great, but, where'd those Huge Orky heads come from?
If anyone cares, my Ork force has weapons to signify caste. Boyz and other low types get shootas only, but Nobz and da Boss get dakka AND choppy bitz. Big boys rip and tear while everyone else makes a bullet wall.
>Those night goblins probably only costed about 50-100 bucks
>those squigs are probably about 700 dollars
God damnit, fucking squigs.
If you mean you want them to stand out in a unit then i wouldn't bother. Having a block of 20 decently painted boyz will look awesome anyway, no need for each to be an individual unless you really want that.
Continuing on, todays progress is one back leg together with the left side and the top. Sure I have some details left on some places, but its all starting to take shape!
I also finished the Neutron Laser, yet another of the magnetized options for this bad boy. Tried some "realistic" burnt effects on the barrel, think it came out quite alright.
Tomorrows work, last leg, bottom side and finishing of with the right side. Ill also do the last magnetized weapons and save the base for Mondays' work, unless I feel the urge to finish it all in one go.
Its actually quite gray, but poor light and living in Sweden mid winter makes it look darker than it actually is.
I did a explanation here >>44656002 on the armor. When finished it will look much similar to this in over all style, and in a light-box.
The Resin quality seems pretty decent. First time ordering from Raging Heroes though, and it was only the single mini.
The sprues was almost easier to snap off instead of cutting, so i was alittle nervous at first, but my fumbly fingers have dropped it on the floor a couple of times by now and nothing has bent or snapped off.
Hello anons. I recently painted my first miniature and wanted to get some critique and advice.
I think i might have to apply some more paint to the organic parts but otherwise I feel that it looks pretty finished.
Normal Mechanicum Kastellan, but with a head from Wargame Exclusive (http://wargameexclusive.com/shop/imperial-mechanics/adeptus-mechanicus-kastelan-robots-heads/), if I had to guess.
The shield and feather is from something of the Empire range of Warhammer Fantasy I presume.
Thanks, agrax is a shade you mix with quite a lot of water and let it flow into the recesses, right? For the matte varnish: does it look a bit shiny afterwards? The organic parts are supposed to be shiny and sticky.
>agrax is a shade you mix with quite a lot of water and let it flow into the recesses, right?
You don't mix it with water in the most cases. Its already highly diluted paint.
Matte varnish will look matte. its used to remove the shine.
There is gloss varnish if you want to have it shine.
can somebody tell me what unit this is?
he also wields a Bow on his back.
i got a whole regiment of them..
This is actually my own army, now undergoing its third repaint in the 8 odd years I've been collecting it.
I don't think I have any pictures of what it used to look like, but I will be going for a similar thing on the repaint, just done to a much higher standard: space wolf grey cloaks, pea green skin, dark steel and bronze metals and tan accents. Winter basing.
Ah okay. Thanks. Yeah, I'm going to buy some varnish then. Can't I use Some regular paint with a lot of thinner as a shade instead of buying agrax? Is there something more to shades?
you can create your own washes that way, yes.
The exact formula of agrax (and other) washes is a bit more complicated i guess, but both ways will work. Check youtube for tutorials for that.
With a fine enough brush you can just paint the recesses and neaten up around them with whatever color to make it pop. Then matte varnish and it will be ready to devour adventurers!
Is it weird that I like these grittier, more "chaotic" paint jobs more than the studio ones? I hate AoS and most of the models, everyone says at least the marauder dudes are pretty sweet, but these are the first pics where I actually felt an urge to build and paint them myself
Oh shit. It would have been quite the surprise. And the trouble to explain that to my housemates.
I hope that take away food was worth it.
Enamel paints (or emaille depending on language) are solvent based, they tend to be more durable, and tend to cover better as denser pigments can be used thanks to the solvents.
They are trickier to work with as you need thinner and such to thin it down or clean your brushes.
Acrylics are water-based, so they can be thinned with water (or acrylic medium), and water can be used for your brush cleaning need with a little brush soap.
Also, Acrylic paints dry much quicker than enamels do. They're touch dry in minutes, rather than hours.
I would add one more highlight on the medium blue around the eyes, it's a bit flat, and like the other guy said, white dots for light source.
That said, you've already done this technique better than I can do it, and it's also good that you didn't get carried away and slather/drybrush blue glow effect over 2/3rds of face and shoulders because a lot of people succumb to that temptation and it always looks bad. Subtlety is always better, but I still think it could stand to be brightened up a bit