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Scanning film with a DSLR

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Thread replies: 88
Thread images: 27

File: DIY Scanner.jpg (34KB, 324x220px) Image search: [Google]
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Hey, perhaps an annoying thread but I'll give it a shot and maybe some new people like myself don't know about this.

What settings do you use on your camera when scanning film with a dslr?

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>>
>>2723402
It depends entirely on your setup. Lowest ISO you can, and whatever else is needed to get your exposure correct.
>>
>>2723417
>nikon d3300 with vr ii 18-55mm lens

so iso 100, what to set the aperture and shutter speed to?
>>
>>2723402
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgOTk4ApEYs

set iso 100 use a tipod if you can small apature long exposure.
>>
stopped down for depth of field, balancing as well with flash power to expose to the right. anywhere from f11-f4. shutter speed max sync speed, nobody's got time for natural light exposures or motion blur. ISO base ISO.
>>
>>2723434
Why not the lowest aperture?
>>
>>2723456
Diffraction.
>>
in my personal point of view i would make sure the film is flat and perpedicular to lens axis, the lens has flat field and then use the sharpest aperture
>>
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>>
>>2723559
can you post an example shot?
>>
>>2723402
Try this:

https://luminous-landscape.com/articleImages/CameraScanning.pdf
>>
I have a lightpad, suitable lens/tubes, 35mm frame & some ANR glass but the biggest problem so far with camera scanning is the setup.

Trying to match up the space required for the tripod or getting everything level is more time consuming than it ever was to use a flatbed.
>>
>>2726121
>Trying to match up the space required for the tripod
If you shoot top-down, you can just use a tripod with either an inverted or a horizontal column.

Tthen you just put a Chinese $15 macro slider head (or if you prefer, a $50-100 rail) on it to do the fine adjustments up-down (and maybe left-right, in the case of the $15 macro head) to exactly position your camera with its lens. Not terribly difficult.
>>
>>2726231
What chinese macro slider for that price do you recommend? And invertible tripod?
>>
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>>2726232
> invertible tripod
This one >>2725458

> What chinese macro slider for that price do you recommend?
Unlike with tripods, I have not actually tried many macro sliders.

But the random ones I got (also from Aliexpress) were both fine for this. Got a straight one and a two axis slider. Can't tell you which ones exactly right now, but it superficially looks like they're all ~the same models anyways.

If you just use it for negatives, I think it is even fine to simply use a straight rail. *Centering* the lens over your negatives by moving your tripod -or moving the negatives to the center of the lens- shouldn't be a big problem when you work top-down.
>>
>>2723402
I used to do it by scanning with my Camera but it's just too long of a project. If you have a lot of film to scan or shoot a lot of film it's worth looking into a dedicated scanner. I use a canoscan and it produces very nice images for it's $180 price tag.
>>
>>2727328

Lol srsly. I shoot a lot of film and I literally laugh at the idea of not using a flatbed scanner. The DSLR scan thing is a fun DIY project but having a workflow and setup with that sounds like a huge hassle to me.
>>
>>2727328
>I used to do it by scanning with my Camera but it's just too long of a project
Fuck off, you were just doing it wrong.
Yesterday I scanned 10 rolls in an hour and 45 minutes.
It took my computer just as long again to do the RAW conversion and invert them.
There is no dedicated scanner that can even make scans of that quality, let alone 400 of them in 3.5 hours.
>B T F O
>T
>F
>O
>>
>>2727359
>>2727328
your comebacks are taking a little while, guys...
>>
Just like you don't develop all the RAWs that you take, I don't see the reason to scan everything IMO.
>>
>>2727363

>assuming 35mm
>assuming pleb scanner
>assuming i sit there like a fucking idiot (you) while my film scans
>assuming scan in the final product or even a step in the final product
>assuming a shitty enthusiast level dslr
>assuming I will ever read your sperg response
>>
>>2727920
you never know which photo will become your favorite in the future :)
>>
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This is my setup-- Cheapo light table, extension tube, 50mm prime. Hacked together a spacer out of balsa wood. Worked well for a couple thousand old 35mm negatives.
>>
I don't understand scanning with a DSLR. Why not just take the photo with the DSLR in the first place?

Just buy a decent scanner and make giant tiff files.
>>
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>>2728002
>I don't understand
evidently

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>>
>>2728013
>muh blacks
>muh dynamic range
>muh color

>throws is all away by passing it though a DSLR scanner
>>
>>2728016
Why would it throw anything away? The film captures the tones and colors and light in a way that digital can't, but represents it in a way that digital can absolutely capture. Also, with HDR techniques, digital can capture any range that film can hold and more.
>>
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>>2728016
test shot
I'm currently revising the doodad that holds everything together. Should be more true to the negative when I can be bothered figuring out how to attach the flash.
That said: ISO1000 film in the Philippines was pretty susceptible to the temperature.. and labs being shit. So the quality isn't what kiddies these days feel entitled to.

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>>
>>2728016
>>2728002
>>2727928
>>2727328
>>2727359
Your face when Arri decides DSLR scanning is the best option for unlimited budgets.
https://www.arri.com/archive_technologies/arriscan/
>>
>>2728002
I don't understand scanning with a flat bed scanner. Why not just take the photo with the flat bed scanner in the first place?
>>
>>2728414
>Why not just take the photo with the flat bed scanner in the first place


yfw someone already did that - which is absolutely incredible.
http://petapixel.com/2014/12/29/medium-format-camera-made-using-parts-epson-scanner/
>>
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This thread made me start tinkering again.
Still not ideal with the flash. Power is right but if I try to produce one there is a hotspot. Still, it's not bad.
...Tinkering with it like meccano seems to be more fun than actually scanning my negs though...
One day..

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>>
>>2723402
why not just shoot with the dslr in the first place?
>>
>>2728571
You need to diffuse your flash. Make a softbox for it. Or just slip a piece of paper on top of the flash head. There's no way that's going to give you an even light output like that.
>>
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>>2728631
Yeah I know.
The slide copier does have an opaque diffuser, but the actual flash bulb still makes a subtle hotspot because it's directly in line of sight.
Consistently positioning the flash is a pain, even moreso when bouncing it, so while I obviously need to do that, I thought I would try and see. It's not good enough.
Right now I'm (again) weighing up what gives best and easiest base-import.. RawTherapee's HaldCLUT negative profile, or a simple tone curve fllip in DarkTable.
>>
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neither application gives very good auto results for exposure, and the way RT almost always assumes highlight compression is required shits me. But at least it seems to comprehend how to adjust color inverted things. ...and yeah, a uniformly exposed image will help that too, no doubt.
It's far nicer to have DT's keyboard shortcuts for doing manual exposure adjustment though.
>>
>>2728571
Hello egglington, your illumination is alwas going to be a problem with the flash head that close.
I would suggest just turning it 180 degrees and bouncing it off the wall.
It should have more than enough power for that.
As I've posted in stacks of threads, the evenness of the illumination is the key.

>>2728629
bcos felm is a superia medim 4 recrdng lite.
>>
>>2728643
Nothing more distance and several layers of thin paper wouldn't solve.
>>
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>>2728661
>>2728660
lol, it works.

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>>2728680
straight out of camera and HaldCLUT inverted
..obviously i could specify the cameras custom WB a little better, but this isn't bad

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>>
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>>2728680
spot WB and auto exposure

...doesn't totally suck

note to self:
flash - 1/32 power, bounce card up and diffuser in place, 24mm spread
camera - f/8 ISO80, manual3 WB

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>>
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>>2728680
flipped, exposure tab reset to neutral, gentle s-curve

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>>
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>>2728680
gentle s-curve and auto-exposure
..seems heavy on the contrast.. iv'e always assumed that was because the authors of RT use canons and assume everyone likes their blacks crushed.

Still, for a bunch of automatically applied settings it's a reasonable starting point.

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>>
>>2728694
That's pretty nice.
I'd still take out some blue, add some green to the bottom end and some red to the top.
>>
>>2723559
>duct tape
>is clearly masking tape
ishiggydiggydoo
>>
>>2729256
I have a feeling the light was a bit dual-tone in reality. That back yard was always in shade with the sun coming in over the top.
But yeah, the WB is off a bit. The widget that selects the part of the image to calibrate as 'white' on the camera is quite large, and trying to find a frame with some actual white/grey in it while viewing it in negative colours is also a bit hit and miss.
I'll be tweaking as I start processing the negs. Ideally I want to not have to do anyhting except apply a few automatic things like HaldClut and tone curve.. get a good baseline staight off the camera before import to RT or DT - and leave manually editing to only where required.
I don't really want to use RawTherapee for this, but it does seem to handle editing negatives and the actual inversion somewhat better. It's also far more robust for pre-import scripting of edit-profiles...trying to manufacture a profile for DT even for simple things looks painful.
Generating them for RT is trivial.
>>
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Different filmstock.. KODAK VPS 5026
possibly ISO1000?
Custom WB set in camera on a white shirt in another frame. Shots are still consistently all too orange, but auto WB seems to fix that easily enough, and it seems subtle enough of a shift that I'm probably not losing much DR.. not that's apparent anyway.
Automatically generated profile for negatives I wrote for RT last year, seems to do all the right things.
Hopefully this generic processing will work across all the film types I intend to process...and mean I don;t have to wiggle the sliders on all of them individually.

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>>
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>>
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Just got some cheap chinese tubes.
Taped some shitty film to my cellphone screen at 100% just to test it out.
I'll build a cardboard setup tomorrow, I gotta find the good part of this roll (which I lost).

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I'm trying to figure out the best method of counteracting the negative orange mask. White balance on a blank area of mask doesn't cut it, since the masking is more complicated than a flat orange filter. Recommendations?

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>>
>>2731688
>White balance on a blank area of mask doesn't cut it
yes it does.
>>
>>2731691

it doesnt you retard.

>>2731688
upload jpeg scan comparison (uncorrected vs corrected). your file of course.
>>
>>2731688
http://www.alexburkephoto.com/2013/06/02/scanning-and-editing-color-negative-film/
>>
>>2731688
Yeah, this is an issue I have too.
Sometimes it works, sometimes i have a neg with a white object in a frame.. but just as often it's still really off. Balancing on a clear bit of film is obviously balancing on balck, not white, so while it can be useful it's also not consistently accurate.
Balancing on a black section of neg is technically white, but isn't always.
A reading taken between half and half sometimes helps.. but again..not always consistent.
I assume that becasue of the nature of negatives and inverting colours this is inherently off in the same way that exposing to the right is inherently weird in some frames after negative inversion.

I tried using Hoya Blue Filters:
80A 80B 80C 82A 82B 82C
Between lens and negative, and between flash and diffuser. But neither were particualrly good. It was a long time ago however, so maybe I should try them again in conjunction with a custon WB on a frame that contains a white object.... and just hope I can find a white object big enough in a frame of every film type I have to process.
TL:DR: Dunno, still working on getting WB closer to accurate.
>>
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>>2731796
>>
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>>2731688
also tried flash diffusers
same as above.. a long time ago
But the set i received seeme to have two of the same hue, and missing the exact shade of cyan i was buying it for.... so i dunno if that was useful or not.
More useful than glass filters in that they don't soften the image however. I do recall noticing this in my filter tests.
>>
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>>2731688
FYI: these two
>>2729412
>>2729413
were from this roll, and custom Wb done on the white shirt attached, and despite being pretty good are still clearly very orange.
Auto or spot WB can fix it of course, but finding a way to get it inherently closer to true is better then not.

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>>
File: 00155136-y720px.jpg (144KB, 1086x720px) Image search: [Google]
00155136-y720px.jpg
144KB, 1086x720px
>>2731688
auto WB

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>>
File: 00155136-y720px-2.jpg (145KB, 1086x720px) Image search: [Google]
00155136-y720px-2.jpg
145KB, 1086x720px
>>2731688
spot WB by clicking on a bit of bark that looked grey of the correct hue... so basically half-assed guessing.. and more clicking than I want to do on this many negs if i can avoid it.

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Camera-Specific Properties:
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>>
>>2728414
LMFAO
>>
>>2731803
>>2731811
>>2731813
>>2731814

what are you trying to acomplish there with these awful posts?
>>
>>2732299
He's gaining priceless R&D info on using using rare and obscure vintage equipment to DSLR scan his shitty negatives and process them using broken sperglord freeware, and then posting it to the most ephemeral knowledge base on the internet.

It's the human equivalent of doing a burnout to impress your mates that aren't even into cars. A total waste of time and energy, for the for the net gain of approximately zero social capital, and certainly nothing of any real tangible value.
>>
File: 00155141-y720px.jpg (158KB, 1086x720px) Image search: [Google]
00155141-y720px.jpg
158KB, 1086x720px
>>2732299
Talking the same old shit in yet another of the same old thread topics about something I have recently been tinkering with on and off, and getting the same edgy douchebags telling people to stop liking what they don't like instead of hiding the thread or filtering the poster.. like all the other precious snowflakes do.
...the usual.

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>>
>>2732462
Protip
When my illumination across the neg is a little uneven, I duplicate the layer, use the multiply blending mode, then add a gradient mask, and vary the opacity to suit, then merge the layers again.
In GIMP, that is.
>>
File: 00155137-y720px.jpg (154KB, 1086x720px) Image search: [Google]
00155137-y720px.jpg
154KB, 1086x720px
>>2732465
Thanks.
But it's like that because I have the flash a little high >>2728680 and it's seeing the edge of the diffuser at frame-bottom.
I'm thinking i'll use a much bigger chunk of card. Possibly even cyan tinted, and see if that helps tone the orange(neg)/ cyan (pos) down a bit.
But these are all just test shots and I guess it's WB that I'm trying to find an elegant solution to. Correcting thousands individually isn't something I want to do, and losing any dynamic range to hue shifts would be nice to avoid.

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>>
>>2732465
FYI: try shooting a blank frame, one where you adjust the exposure specifically to get a good tonal range in the gradient of light across the frame.
...and then use that as a mask.

I've been wondering about using such a frame as a darkfield adjustment. I imagine it would be a really easy way to implement that kind of thing automatically, so long as your lighting is consistent.
>>
>>2732462

ok but you post a lot of text and they still look lomo tier. if i can get your old man ramblings correctly, you want to get sooc dlsr scans that look already corrected? well you literally cant.
>>
>>2732493
I'm trying to get them as close to WB-correct as possible. SOOC.
Of course I can.
The tricky part is figuring out a simple way to do it across the dozen or so film types I have.
>>
>>2732919

better do it with preset rgb curves in ps. dont waste your time like that.
>>
>>2732921
Hence the hobby part. I don't mind the occasional tinkering I do, and so far it's got me pretty close, and been interesting.
Some adjustment of curves/WB is to be expected, but i'm trying to minimise that so that the application of auto Wb in-editor easily gets it right, and the tiny smidge of dynamic range lost to shit WB is minimised.
I have a feeling that one or two of the cyan filters I have when used between diffuser and flash, should be about right for the kodak VR negs.
>>
File: scan_p.jpg (2MB, 3693x3240px) Image search: [Google]
scan_p.jpg
2MB, 3693x3240px
So my personal setup is made as follows:

> a flashgun cable-mounted to camera in manual mode.
> - blue filter (counter-orange mask) - a cutted piece from blue transparent binding sheet bought in shop with office stuff.

> diffuser (built in flashgun)

> shoes casrton with holes at both ends and with 3 pieces of white diffusing plexi-glass inside. (after 3 stages of diffusion the final backlight is nearly even on the entire surface)

> some pieces of black cartoon for masking unwanted light (the light not going through the picture but on the side of it - like perforations or above/under film strip)

> film holder (holder from old projector)

> good lens without distortion and with flat filed
( distortion may be corrected in post, but flat field is a must!) set to the sharpest aperture.
a canon crop body (im too poor to afford 5Ds)

i exposure to the right using unexposed piece of the scanned film, i do it with every film, differend brands tend to have different opacity level and colours!!

=============
CONTINUATION IN NEXT POST (4chan 2000 char limit)
>>
>>2732995
CONTINUATION
=======================

i process the images in lightroom, color curves to invert the image and set black and white points and white balance, i also set the contrast to around 60-80 and play with the exposure. all the controlls work in opposite side.)
due to the blue pvc sheet in front of flash i got WB at around 4000-4500 in daylight picture
without it required under 2000, lightroom does not allow lower than 2000.

Unfortunately i almost always have some sort of strange colour hue shifts, mostly yellows appearing more like green and reds appearing more like pink.
hovever i realized that playing with the hue sliders in the last bottom calibration section (lightroom), setting blue hue to -10 brings yellows back, and green hue at about 50-60+ and red hue at 30-50+ brings back the reds from this shitty gay-pink.
The second problem is skincolours allways being too-red or too-green, there is really no point in between where it looks right, of course the hue-sliders helped a bit there too.

pic related.
This is in fact 6x6 picture not 36x24 so i keept it in hands not in the holder and did several tries to increase the propability of getting properly focused one.
im considering to make some kind of holder which will keep the 120 film but will frame only a part of the image at once. I will make then several independed scans of different parts of each picture and stitch them together in post like panorama pictures to get one hundret megapickles scan.
ps. the scaned picture wasnt taken by me, i found this film in trash and now i use it for testing purposes.
>>
>>2732995

the skintones are awesome. almost technicolor.
>>
>>2732999
I checked right now what film it was, and as the edge of the film says, it is ORWO NC19
>>
>>2728028
>Philippines

So where do you have your film developed in this island?
>>
>>2734076
>>2728028

Just send your film to Studio 58 and be done with it. Also, I've heard Jay Javier's got a Jobo machine as well.
>>
>>2734159
what about in hidalgo? P35 per roll?
>>
>>2734172

Why not at fujifilm or digiprint? It ultimately boils down to quality vs price. If you've only got snapshits on those rolls, then feel free to take the el cheapo route.
>>
>>2726239
I buyed this tripod for Christmas but I'm still figuring out what that metal stick at the end of the vertical tube is made for.
>>
>>2734076
>>2734159
>>2734172
>>2734219
it was 30 years ago.
>>
>>2734260
It's a hook to hang heavy things off so your tripod doesn't blow around in the wind or fall over.
>>
>>2734267
That much was established. Just here to help>>2734076
>>
>>2734219
Does hidalgo really rank around shit tier regarding developing process? Like the film will get scratches? I mean as compared to fujifilm? With fujifilm it's P55 per roll. I don't havr any idea with digiprint.

>>2734267
Why were you here 30 years ago? Just curious.
>>
>>2734458

gumagastos ka para sa pa-hipster mong film na yan, tas di mo kaya kahit singkwenta'y singko lang? juice colored, bente na nga lang diperensya. And no, Hidalgo's just fine. Just don't buy anything from those jews Jojo and Dado.
>>
thanks<3
>>
>>2734481
>Just don't buy anything from those jews Jojo and Dado.

Who the hell are they? What's the name of their store?
>>
File: 00152581-y600px.jpg (106KB, 401x600px) Image search: [Google]
00152581-y600px.jpg
106KB, 401x600px
>>2734458
I went to I.S. for a few years.

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>>
>>2734765
Isla Sorna? Were there dinosaurs?
Thread posts: 88
Thread images: 27


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