I'm about to become a digicuck. What am I in for? Been shooting film for years. Grabbing a Ricoh GR 2 aps c. Figure I'll take my street photography to new levels of obnoxiousness. What's the fastest way to learn post processing? I need that film look.
disappointment
>>3120310
>What am I in for?
The freedom to experiment and make mistakes without having to worry about the cost of shitty department store processing of out of date film
>>3120310
sharp photos
How do I get the faded/VSCO look?
>>3120202
Kill yourself
>>3120202
It is simple. You have to go down to the nearest truck stop and suck as many dicks as you can. When you sucked enough Sugar will appear to suck your dick and then he will tell you all the photography secrets.
Use the ginham filter on Instagram
How many times should I turn the knob on an old Airesflex camera to load a new frame?
I bought new film for it a while ago, and the shop loaded it for me. But the frame counter on the side of the camera is broken, so I don't know when a new frame is in place. Is there any way to tell? Anyone have a similar camera?
Can I open it in a dim room and check? I've never dealt with a film camera before so I don't know what to do really. Any help appreciated.
>>3120169
>the frame counter on the side of the camera is broken
How?
It's just a window isn't it?
I would just waste a roll to experiment.
>>3120169
how do you know the frame counter is broken? did you try to roll the knob untill it automatically stops? Those old TLRs will often overlap frames by 1 or 2mm even the rolleiflex.
>>3120174
>>3120177
The little disk on the inside of the window that rotates and displays what frame you're on is stuck. It stands permanently on 'S', which stands for "start", I presume.
>did you try to roll the knob untill it automatically stops?
I've turned it perhaps ten rounds. What do you mean automatically stops? You mean when I've gone through the whole roll? I could do that and then just divide it by twelve, I guess.
I picked up this Zenit EM the other day; I paid £1 for it at a carboot. It was thrown in a suitcase with a bunch of junk; I had to buy the case to buy the camera. Unfortunately this meant I didn’t have the opportunity to check it before bringing it home.
Pleasant surprise, it still fires. The body despite being a little dusty seems well looked after, so I mean £1 well spent. That said, when I look through the viewfinder there is a big brown/yellow streak running straight down the center; I have no idea what this is.
If it’s possible I’d like to clean it up/fix it; I mean if I mess up, there’s nothing lost really, as far as I can tell the camera is 10 a penny and I didn’t pay much for it. I’m looking for someone with a little more knowledge to tell me what the line is/might be and then help me find the resources I need to fix it.
Thanks
p.s. if the picture isn’t clear enough or more info is needed I can supply new pictures.
Also if fixing the camera is going to cost more than the price I paid for the camera, let me know. Likewise if the ‘damage’ is just cosmetic and won’t affect photo quality, let me know as well.
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Camera Software Adobe Photoshop CS6 (Macintosh) Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Horizontal Resolution 143 dpi Vertical Resolution 143 dpi Image Created 2017:07:24 13:37:22 Color Space Information Uncalibrated Image Width 2042 Image Height 1362
Also, bonus gore. It's a picture of the suitcase I bought, looks like someone was throwing away their entire home darkroom. This was all included for the low-low price of £1
>>3120039
Looks like a bit of a steal op, nice day work. The streak is probably just cosmetic, I would just shoot a roll with it and find out. Be gentle with your camera, old cameras tend to break for no reason whatsoever
>>3120038
The mirror pentaprism is pressed down in place by a metal clamp and foam. After decades the foam turned into a sticky mush and the released compounds corrode the thin seam of the mirror coating, permanently destroying it. This seems to be worse in cameras kept in bad comditions - aside from replacing the prism (not difficult but needs a donor) or having the know-how to recoat it (wut) it's dead, Jim. Aside from an annoyance doesnt impact anything.
You should be more worried about the tiny viewfinder image coverage area messing up your framing. Check curtains for pinholes against a strong light and enjoy your barebones 1 quid slr.
You are a private investigator.
What canera do you use?
Whatever is necessary to get the job done
>>3119946
>canera
>>3119946
Camera body with a large sensor and sharp autofocus with a 100mm+ telephoto zoom lens
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make NIKON CORPORATION Camera Model NIKON D7200 Camera Software Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.7 (Windows) Maximum Lens Aperture f/3.5 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Color Filter Array Pattern 814 Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 27 mm Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 240 dpi Vertical Resolution 240 dpi Image Created 2017:07:23 20:15:55 Exposure Time 1/30 sec F-Number f/3.5 Exposure Program Normal Program ISO Speed Rating 110 Lens Aperture f/3.5 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 18.00 mm Color Space Information sRGB Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Gain Control None Contrast Normal Saturation Normal Sharpness Normal Subject Distance Range Unknown
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make NIKON CORPORATION Camera Model NIKON D7200 Camera Software Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.7 (Windows) Maximum Lens Aperture f/4.8 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Color Filter Array Pattern 814 Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 57 mm Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 240 dpi Vertical Resolution 240 dpi Image Created 2017:07:23 20:14:27 Exposure Time 1/60 sec F-Number f/4.8 Exposure Program Normal Program ISO Speed Rating 110 Lens Aperture f/4.8 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 38.00 mm Color Space Information sRGB Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Gain Control None Contrast Normal Saturation Normal Sharpness Normal Subject Distance Range Unknown
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make NIKON CORPORATION Camera Model NIKON D7200 Camera Software Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.7 (Windows) Maximum Lens Aperture f/3.7 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Color Filter Array Pattern 814 Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 30 mm Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 240 dpi Vertical Resolution 240 dpi Image Created 2017:07:23 20:12:52 Exposure Time 1/250 sec F-Number f/8.0 Exposure Program Aperture Priority ISO Speed Rating 100 Lens Aperture f/8.0 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 20.00 mm Color Space Information sRGB Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Gain Control None Contrast Normal Saturation Normal Sharpness Normal Subject Distance Range Unknown
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make NIKON CORPORATION Camera Model NIKON D7200 Camera Software Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.7 (Windows) Maximum Lens Aperture f/3.7 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Color Filter Array Pattern 814 Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 30 mm Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 240 dpi Vertical Resolution 240 dpi Image Created 2017:07:23 20:09:51 Exposure Time 1/320 sec F-Number f/8.0 Exposure Program Aperture Priority ISO Speed Rating 100 Lens Aperture f/8.0 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 20.00 mm Color Space Information sRGB Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Gain Control None Contrast Normal Saturation Normal Sharpness Normal Subject Distance Range Unknown
How do I get an emotional response from my photographs? I want to capture the raw feeling of any given scene.
>>3119796
Not trying to sound like a douche but take pictures of emotional things. It's easier said than done. You have to get out of your element in a way. Its hard to do just wandering around your home town. when I went to new Orleans to build houses for people who got fucked from Katrina I was able to capture what you are talking about. People would come to see what we were making for them or would come to see the finished home. It was so easy to do there. But I haven't really had that same chance. On vacation in other countries I sometimes get it with the locals. But you have to go out of your way is what I'm saying.
Timing and including people's faces, bright and big.
Oh, and don't use kids.
>>3119796
A scene has to have raw feeling for you to capture. You can't just create an emotional response taking pics of random shit. And since photography is considered a documentary medium (meaning some would consider it unethical to stage a scene) all you can do is seek it out in emotional places or hope you'll be lucky enough to stumble onto it.
For now you should focus on improving your technical skills (making pretty pictures) so that when the opportunity arises you don't squander it by taking terrible shots.
You can see those pictures .. they are present in videos and video games in all resolutions ... I do the same thing on PC and smartphone.
what?
Bokeh meme
Looks like you mean the color banding? Stop working with 8bit
I need a photo/video tripod recommendation for <$40.
I'm from europe so I'll probably have to pay some import fees on top of that and I don't use a tripod often so I'm not ready to spend more. I have a bridge camera, no heavy DSLR.
Was thinking about this
https://eu.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-Pro-Fancier-WF6662A-Ball-Head-Tripod-For-DSLR-Camera-Nikon-Canon-wp-Eu-925933.html?rmmds=category
or this
http://www.gearbest.com/tripods/pp_674247.html
If the government didn't take the majority of my income, maybe it would be a DSLR. If I still had my GH3 you would complain about the sensor size.
Any tip on using a point and shoot film camera at night in the city? My first time using a point and shoot, recently got a Yashica T3. Thanks.
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make PENTAX Camera Model PENTAX K-7 Camera Software K-7 Ver 1.10 Photographer WALLACE KOOPMANS Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 150 mm Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 240 dpi Vertical Resolution 240 dpi Image Created 2011:01:20 19:23:14 Exposure Time 1/160 sec F-Number f/7.1 Exposure Program Aperture Priority ISO Speed Rating 200 Lens Aperture f/7.1 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Pattern Flash Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 100.00 mm Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Contrast Normal Saturation Normal Sharpness Normal Subject Distance Range Close View
>>3119172
Yeah don't lmao
I guess just load a high ISO or have very steady hands and be selective with your flash.
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
>>3119172
lower your expectations
Taught myself photoshop in the last 2 weeks
How did I do /p/? I spent about 30 minutes editing this cr2 image i shot earlier today
>>3118625
please excuse shitty quality of second image, it is my fault for being lazy when making the collage
for just having 2 weeks of experience id say thats pretty good, the reflection gives it away for me though.
props for not forgetting the color balancing and making sure the tonality of the whole image should be uniform, lots of newbies forget this and end up with a sky with blue tinted shadows, and a foreground with green tinted shadows
pic related is from 5 years ago. one of my first real big "conversions" with photoshop with like 2 months of just dicking around with the software
>>3118625
It's a start. The motion blur on the biker makes it difficult to cut him out the sky effectively, though
Last Thread: >>3114305
Anything about lenses, cameras, mounts, systems, buying, pricing, selling, etc. GOES IN HERE!
Do not open new threads for gear-related issues.
No pointless (brand) arguments and dick waving allowed! You have been warned! Just questions, answers, and advice.
And don't forget, be polite.
Do you guys think pentax 35mm macro limited is good choice comparing it to 35mm f24, especially since I'm not planning on using the macro feature.
should i buy a kit lens or fork over an extra $100 for f/2.8
>>3118383
Trying to decide between D3300 and A5000 for my first decent camera. Give me advantages of each one and what each camera is more appropriate for.
Is pic related worth $100 or should I spend $400ish on grd iv?
>>3118380
Not worth it.
Get a Ricoh GR II, RX100 IV/V or some other fairly useful camera.
>>3118381
Don't like the Ricoh gr. Pictures are too nice. To clean. Like that film look of the older ones.
>>3118382
If you like it then get it, who cares if you pay 25 dollars more or fewer than what someone else paid for it second hand years ago
I know developing film film is developing film, but what film lab delivers consistent and high-quality negatives, what lab develops the best. I scan my own negatives so I'm not worried about scans I just need to know what the cheapest and best film lab is for developing
>>3118058
Do ut urnself?
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/20411-Arista-C-41-Liquid-Color-Negative-Developing-Kit-1-Quart
I've had consistent and great results with The Darkroom.
Kodak releases a smartphone with a camera-focus us for 400$
http://uk.pcmag.com/smartphones/90366/review/kodak-ektra
Hasn't the Ektra been around for like two years now?
>>3117387
>http://uk.pcmag.com/smartphones/90366/review/kodak-ektra
What rock have you been under?
and it sucks as a phone and a camera
wow