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I went full autism and stitched together most of the stuff I have going on indoors right now, all pics from today
(s) means from seed, (p) from pruning, dates are when approx. the first ones sprouted or developed roots respectively, also added how long it took for that
Location is roughly 50°N 8°E
(1)-(9) are on an ENE-facing window at ~18-22°C,
(10)-(11) as well as 3rd pic of (1) under a grow light that runs 14h/day in the same room
(12)-(14) ENE-facing window at ~13-17°C
(15)-(16) SSE-facing window at ~15-18°C
(17)-(21) WSW-facing window at ~15°C
Now some comments
(1) Seeds pulled from a fresh fruit from a tree in Dalmatia, Croatia. Was surprised at the high germ rate, grow well generally but dunno what causes chlorosis in the ones under the grow light
(2) Seeds from store-brought fruit. Sprouted well but are slowly dying, barely any growth
(3) Almost all the cuttings grew roots quickly, slow-growing but steady since then, a few died to fungus gnats I believe
(6) Found the tomato seedlings pop up in a pot with garden soil I use to grow the watermelon seedling in, probably seeds that were left in the soil from summer
(7) This one is going slower than expected (but luckily so)
(8) Stupid olive prunings I took in late September still show no roots. Added a willow stick from the garden because it apparently encourages root growth in other cuttings, but it only developped roots itself and is sprouting massively. Also added more privet cuttings 2 weeks ago (but I know they take forever), as well as a cypress one a few days ago, let's see how those will do
(9) Finally on my 3rd attempt I got pomegranate to sprout, maybe the seed scarcification I did this time and putting them on 30°C was the key
(10) Had to put them under grow light because they etiolated a lot so I had to prune them consistently before. The light seems to work, they're growing much more bushy now
(11) Only one out of the 5 or so seeds I put in the soil sprouted, slow going, also some chlorosis for whatever reason
(12) The 'nigra' variety is the only one which kept its naturally reddish leaves over all the months in the water glass before rooting, others dropped their green ones eventually but still grew roots
(14) The laggish growth has improved a bit since I wrapped alu foil around it to the room facing side and put in the colder room
(15) Backstory: Took a cutting from one tomato in the garden back in Sep, it also nicely grew roots after just 2 weeks, transplanted into a pot and it grew in height too. But then in early Nov there was a storm which knocked the pot over and severed the stem at the base, so I took the top and tried to get that to root again, finally without success (was too big I guess). It eventually did shoot a sucker though which I clipped and put in water - and for some reason that one grew roots after a while! So I planted it in, and now it has started growing again (so pretty much a cutting of a cutting of a cutting in just 4 months)
(18) This is a storebought one from 2014. Last winter it defoliated in late December (was outside though) and only slowly started growing new leaves by February. This winter I had to remove the leaves and pruned back already in mid-November and put it in a cool (10°C) dark place afterwards, hoping it goes dormant. But no it shot new leaves 2 weeks later, so i had to put it in the same brighter/warmer spot as it was last winter, and now it's already growing like crazy, but leaves don't look as healthy as last year
(19) Those got serious damage from fungus gnats, even excavating, rinsing the roots, having them sit for half a day in water and then replanting into freshly sterilised soil, and watering with Bti didn't completely help, more than half of them are dead ;_; (I won't spenda fortune on buying nematodes though, not worth it)
(20) I have no idea what this is, popped up in some palm tree pot outside back in autumn. Looked nice so repotted it. Growing since, but no flower to identify
(21) Fig pruning from a tree in a neighbourhood garden. Shot some leaves in December but they were eventually dropped, apparently this is normal though at this stage (I guess there's not enough root yets to support them)
(22) Bought this laurel bush back in July and planted it out in the garden, not knowing it will probably not survive our winters (oops), so should've potted it. Went down to -7°C last week, don't know if it has survived it, didn't put on any protection (which is hard to do anyway given the shape). Also there's some weird grass growing behind it, don't know what that one is and if I should cut it back - it definitely doesn't look like the pampas grass which is in the garden too (leaves are different and none of those large flower stalks in the middle)
That concludes it
I like it. Do you really document those temperatures the way you wrote them down? I don't even own something to measure it with.
I think I will do the same rosemary thing you did. Cutting ones off and planting them in a new pot
It is nice seeing tons of stuff like that and it is nice to have it in one image. I recognize much from previous posting I think. Keep up the good work and experimentation.
I'm not growing anything right now, but I'm 1/2 a month behind. I need to get indoor sprouts started ASAP.
Right now, my garden looks like this. 12 inches of snow cover it. ....help.
Nah, I don't monitor them that closely, I do have a thermometer here and there which I sometimes look at, so it's approximate
Oh I wish we had some more snow now and then
Pic related is all the "snow" this whole winter so far (was actually mixed with rain and cakey), fell one late November night and was gone a few hours later
To add, rosemary is definitely much easier to propagate by cutting then by seed (very low germination rate). Both methods are in the end just for the fun of it if we are honest though, you could always buy a small one in a hardware store for €3 which will probably take a seedling/cutting a few years to reach in size
I cant remember how long the two larger ones have been growing, A few months now I think. I started them all in water and planted them when they split and or started shooting roots. Some of them didn't produce any roots but i could see the embryo inside, so I just planted them and they ended up shooting.
The pond never freezes through
Also there's an air pump + diffusor stone which they need anyway because it's fucking overpopulated (14 goldfish in 0.5m^3 of water - you should normally have 1 per m^3 max - but they keep reproducing - originally it was 5 of them 3 years ago, before I inserted the pump in 2014, the fish would often gulp for air on the surface), and it also keeps the surface ice-free at least in the spot above it (like it was just some days ago when we had -7°C)
Anybody fux wit lucky bamboo? I want to figure out how to get a second shoot out of an existing stalk.
I actually had a stalk get a mold or some fungus on it so it was dying, and I managed to save the shoot and put it in water/stones to grow new roots. A second shoot came out of that one from just below the water line. It is nice and healthy now, I want to cut it off soon and plant it on its own. As well as plant that shoot it came from in soil again with the existing original stalks.
Nope, Newcastle Australia, Almost the same latitude tho.
I don't know what the stuff is i used for the fence, Just had it lying around, The other side of the garden is old decking. Gets the job done.
No books as such, but I can give you some advice based on my experience
1. Establish the pile with a bucket of some ready made compost for reasonably foolproof results and very low rate of infection.
2. Grass clippings and used brewing malt are magic compost starters, the malt is typically sterile after brewing boil and can hot rod an existing pile in a matter of 24-48 hours
3. Aerobic compost is better than anaerobic and carries less chance of housing pathogenic bacteria  so having a compost pile that can get air underneath and on all sides and is turned daily for the first couple of weeks will ensure a high success rate.
4. Bacteria needs water to survive, so keep your pile moist and keep a cover of sorts over it to stop sunlight drying it out too much. If you have a pile that's off the ground and can get air and drainage it's very hard to overwater it as it'll drain off any excess water by itself.
Something like pic related except with mesh bottoms that sit off the ground so that the piles have air and drainage.
Vermicompost and green mulching are some other approaches that you can try too.
Type "compost filetype:pdf" into google and you should get some good basic guides that'll see you through.
Hey guys. What is wrong with my chili? Is it fungus, or some sort of deficiency?
Also, the flowers point right down. They won't face up.
I don't really see any problem in your chilli. Are you worrying because of the yellowish leave? The others seem fine. The flower pointing right down would not worry me, though it is strange since this variety since to make fruit pointing up (is it? or is it the picture that gives this feeling?)
Damn I wish i had a place to grow something. I don't even have a balcony.
Has anyone ever grown or eaten Jostaberries? I'm thinking of getting a plant or two and putting them adjacent to my family's fledgling orchard.
Apparently they taste like a cross between a gooseberry and black currant, but I have no idea what either of those taste like.
Sorry, didn't check back until now. I've never tried anything like what you're saying. From my research though, I've read that you likely won't be able to use anything store bought (depending on your climate zone), it's likely soft neck garlic, and requires different conditions.
My research for hardneck at least says that it requires appx 35 days of frozen ground to trigger the changes required for a bulb to form.
I have some type of hardneck elephant garlic a friend gave me. I let them flower last season and harvested the bulbils. I planted them in October. Many have already started sprouting. I just used a broadcast sowing method and scratched at the loose soil shallowly. They are under about 12 inches of snow right now though. I can't wait in a couple years for them. I'll have a few beds, each with a different planting cycle so I can always have 1 bed of garlic maturing each season.
well you're not supposed to let them flower, what you do is cut the scape so that the energy from that development goes into the original bulb, then you harvest that. You re-use the biggest bulbs as seed for your next crop. I'm sure you''ll still have growth, but the size/yields will probbaly be lackluster since you're using the bulb. I'm not sure you'll be able to control the planting cycle that way since they require vernalization.
You missed the word "bulbils". I was intentionally allowing them to flower and grow the bulbils on the flower head. Bulbils propagation of garlic is a much longer method to maturity but you can get 100s of garlic plants from a single flower head depending on the variety. The variety I have has more than I need from only about 6 plants. I can set aside a very small number of plant for continued bulbils production each season I need them.
What is that?
what is the purpose of seaweed extract? It is not a fertiliser, so what should it be used for? Everything I read just says "dude it helps plants grow", but I can't understand how this is different to fertiliser. Nowhere can I find an explanation for how it should be used in conjunction with fertiliser.
I just bought a bottle of Seasol seaweed and didn't realise that it's not fertiliser. Yes I am very new.
Yes they are. I just threw about 3 or 4 seeds in each of my 6 spot seed starter with some grow mix and watered every other day with a heating pad beneath to promote growth. It really helps
It's one of the best organic fertilizers besides a good compost. High in both macro and micro nutrients. You could use everyday chemical fertilizers but organics are better for the soil as they feed and maintain microorganism populations and don't leave the buildup of salts that chemical fertilizers do.
Compost will add slower, long term nutrients that plants use over time,chemical fertilizers are used right away. If you have good quality compost though you shouldn't even need chemicals unless your plants are already showing signs of nutrient deficiency
But you can get organic fertiliser made from fish and the Season documentation literally says that their seaweed extract isn't fertiliser. Which just leaves me wondering what the fuck its purpose is.
it's trace elements, can transfer some hardiness, promote root growth and general health tonic for your plants but does not contain notable quantities of NPK (macronutrients) that plants need. you need to use it in conjunction witha conventional fertiliser. you don't really need to apply the seaweed much unless you have a deficiency (but it doesn't seem to particularly liable to burn plants so it won't be too critical)
also stay away from their fish emulsion product, it's pretty much just nitrogen.
Also look into scarification and stratification which some plants need. Scarification can be done with sandpaper. Just scratch the seed coat and soak overnight. Stratification is exposure to a cold period to simulate winter. Basically wrap seeds in a damp paper towel in a plastic bag and place in the fridge for 4-6 weeks. Even just Soaking seeds in water overnight also will help alot out.
don't let them dry out, put them on moist paper etc prior to sowing. if they dry out they won't germinate. if you've already got them going in media keep warm and moist.
also be aware that the seeds won't necessarily grow into exactly the same variety that the parent plant was.
Technically, yes. Just grow them like any normal plant. Harvest them and prep the material as needed. I'm not sure how much you'd need or how much space that would require, but you could grow several generations in a small space if needed.
Be patient... very patient. Mine took 2 months to sprout, and only 1 out of the 5 seeds worked (was a twin though) despite me shelling them beforehand
I guess they may have had too much temperature fluctuation, it's probably best to put them at a constant 30°C or so (but bright) for things to go faster
rly shit. i had 11/20 from my first batch and 8/20 from second. all store bought meyer lemons. from the first batch i only saved 3 that were further along than others; killed the rest TOO MANY.
Well I put the seeds on the outside SW facing window sill by late May, so they were probably exposed to local temps ranging from +5 to +60°C (it's a very dark stone and the window frame itself is black too - already the normal air temp reached up to +40°C in early July) so I guess most of the seeds eventually got baked - but hey, the strongest one survived in the end and now they've been doing well in the last half year since germination
Growing slow now in winter though - hope they'll pick up speed once I put them outside again in around late April
Trenchanon here once again, no pics to show right at this moment but all the plants have settled in nicely. We had 19mm of rain in the last 12 hours and the trench didn't flood or have any real problems as a result, things are looking good and the cucumbers haven't died, although on of the plants has flowered under the stress and so have both zucchinis but that was because of the roots getting too hot and pea straw mulch fixed everything.
breaking up soil in another bed in the garden and am going to plant out a bunch of sweet potatoes and borlotti beans for kekz, what are you other anons up to outdoors, surely there's a lot of prep you all need to do to get ready for spring besides raising early seeds indoors?
I put mine in a paper towel the other day and I think they're starting to emerge roots. My house is kind of cold and I thought they would struggle. I've improvised a heating pad by putting them on top of my pc for a few hours a day.
I've got some starter bonsais at home but I'm about to go away for just over a fortnight. Would they be able to survive current Australian weather if I water them before I leave and keep them inside or am I going to have to rig up something to keep them going?
so today i left my avocado seedlings on my desk -> out of the water for about 6, the roots were all shriveled up like raisins. really shit because they just got secondary roots from the tap root (alomst 2 months in !!) i hope they arent dead or going to die
Probably the stupidest question of the thread, but is it possible to breed potatoes? I don't mean like making potatoes have sex or anything, but if I desired a larger potato would I simply make sure to plant the largest potato I had grown prior? Thus leading to large potatoes in the future, and just disposing of the smaller ones (via my stomach)?
Growing potatoes from potato eyes is a form of clone propagation. You always end up with the same plant. It is the conditions you grow them in that determine size among one variety. If you want to create a new variety you will need to propagate them via selective breeding as >>676684 states. This can include cross-breeding.
It'd be nice to have more varieties of potatoes again. when I started farming many decades ago I could get tons of varieties of potatoes in the USA. Now, there's a 10th of that.
I really want to figure out this site and how to request orders from them. Every time I do, they refuse, but only because it is the wrong time of year for their supply.
I'd truly love to dig into a hill of potatoes that look like these.
It is quite interesting reading. That should give you all the info you need to start researching further terms and methods.
I actually have some TPS from purple potatoes I want to try planting. They bloomed separately from all my other potato varieties so these will only be fertilized from other purple potatoes.
So far I'm growing:
Argonaut hybrid butternut
-1 Hinnomaki Red gooseberry
-2 Hardy kiwi (1m,1f)
-1 Dwarf Petite Negri fig tree.
Everything is going into a 25x25 plot, so I even went full autism and drew up a chart and have everything planned out even though I live in Michigan and I can't get shit started indoors for at least a fucking month.
Row covers for the chard, mostly, because I want to harvest year-round and makes it a little easier to get at them when I don't have to search for them under snow. Most of what I do is actually before anything even goes in the ground. Because of my short season, I try to plant actual plants instead of seeds. Yes, even the corn, which I start in little origami pots made out of grocery bags. The only things I dont start indoors is the tiny, fiddly seeds like carrots. I'll post pics when I start, but that probably wont be till late march.
Dude, it's burpee. They cater to white suburbanites that know jack about gardening that are trying to grow shit for thier young spawn to 'teach them about food' or some shit, not yuppies organic-desu-desu fags like you. Thats like going into a smalltown diner and hoping for something not covered in gravy and shittons of salt.
If I give food to the birds will they leave my plants alone or, on the contrary, it will attract more of them and after eating it they will go again after the plants?
You rooted it in water glass I assume? As soon as ~1cm long roots show up, put the cuttings into soil in a pot, but be very gentle to not damage them
Since they're very young and still establishing, I'd keep them inside the house until March/April (depending on your climate) before they'll go into the garden (you should be at least in USDA zone 7b though to plant them out at all), that's what I'm doing with mine at least
It will attract more. What you need to do is put up owl/hawk/kestrel statues and that flashy anti-bird ribbon. Move them to new locations from time to time so the birds don't get used to them.
Plant more varieties in your gardens in order to prevent disease from wiping out all of one variety and leaving you with nothing. It is common sense, not hippie bullshit or whatever you are afraid of.
Monocrop kills the farm.
Can four tomatoe plants grow in the same pot or do I have to put one plant in one pot? I am not able to place them outside as I have no access to a garden so I could buy a big pot to place on the balcony
question about soil
So, this isn't my first year growing, but I've never really considered soil, just thrown seeds on my existing soil and everything has worked out fine.
But this year I am building a raised bed and everything I've read regarding soil says to use a mixture of compost, coir and perlite. This is all well and good, except I've noticed quite a difference in cost between this and regular bags of garden soil.
So finally my question, will there be a noticeable difference between using run of the mill garden soil or creating my own?
Raised beds are like pots. They allow you to fine tune the soil you use. Use whatever you have on hand and amend it later with better stuff, if you feel the need.
I don't buy soil, I make it myself from compost (manure, yard, kitchen wastes) and sand. It gives amazing results.
When I first started, I had like 0 soil and local dirt was all heavy clay based. I ended up just digging a few holes spaced out and filling those with soil like they were in-ground pots then mulched. It worked really well. The point is that I used what I had when I didn't have the best of the best.
>never really considered soil
Annon, soil is the most important part of growing plants. Healthy soil is the key to healthy plants. You have to think of soil as an ecosystem. Keep the microorganisms happy and alive and they will in turn allow your plants to be healthy. Feed them and grow their numbers by adding compost, make sure the soil has a good balance of air and water. Microorganisms break down the elements in the soil to that which plants can use which is why they are so important. They also protect from certain diseases. Don't forget also that plants take what they need from the soil and these elements eventually need to be replenished.
Compost is the key. It's expensive to buy sometimes but incredibly easy to make. Definitely look into it. Even if you use a standard potting mix at first be sure to get around to amending it when you have the chance.
We just ordered seed for this year. We have 4 areas to plant for the serious garden. The space at my house is about 45'x25'. 6' picket fence on south and west sides, 5' chain link on east and north sides. For that garden:
>large red cherry tomato
>emerald giant pepper
>sweet banana pepper
>black beauty zucchini
>double yield cucumber (trellised)
>super sugarsnap peas (chain link fence)
>kentucky wonder pole beans (chain link fence)
>tarahumara frijol enrayada (old pinto pole bean variety from the southwest US and northern Mexico) (chain link fence)
My empty lot across the alley is about 90'x120'. It'll be cultivated for the first time this year, I've just let it grow grass and previously. Mostly I'll plant Japanese buckwheat early to choke out what's there, but I'll have a small patch of pink-eyed purple-hull southern peas and a patch of bush-type pinto beans.
At my in-law's house, I have a small 4'x20' patch that will be mainly sweet potatoes, with some Cherry Belle radish and red cored Chantenay carrots.
Big garden at my in-law's house (30'x50'):
>golden bantam corn
>detroit dark red beet
>san felipe pepper
>jack o lantern pumpkin
>test run of milo
Pumpkin will run up a trellis like a motherfucker. I had one volunteer near a chain-link fence a couple of years ago. Grew 3 or 4 pumpkins way up off the ground. I put little hammocks under them.
Land is cheap here in the boonies. We tried an apple tree and a cherry cross of some sort last year, both of them died. That's what I get for buying trees at the hardware store, I think. There's a nursery not too far from here that's going to get some business this year. Want a tart cherry and a sweet cherry to start with. May put in a berry patch at some point. Blackberries do well here, and they make excellent beer.
Just us growing stuff for us and our friends to eat. This is my third year teaching, prior to that I'd worked about a million hours a week to get our mortgage paid. Once we were debt-free and had a bit in the bank, I started teaching. My wife being diagnosed with MS had something to do with that decision, as well as wanting to actually see my kids and have a super secure job with good benefits. I haven't gardened seriously in 30 years, so I'm still feeling out the process and remembering everything my great-grandmother taught me as a kid. I also use her hoe.
Last year we tried lots of varieties and planted them all close together to compare yield. I wasn't concerned with cross-pollination. This year I'll be more careful. I did save some hot pepper seed from last year from cayenne, poblano, jalapeno, and San Felipe peppers that grew interspersed in the same row. I mixed the saved seeds and planted some of them last week with the kids in my special ed classroom. We'll grow some in containers in the classroom so the kids can watch the process. If I can get the body of a jalapeno with the flavor of a San Felipe, I'll be in pepper heaven. Let's say I'm hopeful, but I'm not expectant.
This is some of the landscaping I did last year in my backyard, which is so shady nothin but moss and occasional sprig of grass grows. Its also shitty soil. Unfortunately I lost the finished pic, but I basically made a small patio with the granite and bricks. Both free, found the bricks while digging out holes and amending the soil for the plants, and the granite was scraps fom a place that does countertops. Woodchips also free, courtesy of a yard waste dump site for the city. Planted hostas, corelbells, bleeding heart, violets and azaleas.
Nanking cherries are pretty hardy anon; also this place has a 4-pack of dwarf trees. Free shipping, and every order gets a free plant. The list of freebies you can choose from includes blackberries and raspberries.
My pepper plants have been flowering throughout the winter months, though some of them are looking a little yellow. Should they be able to easily come back once it gets warmer, and the amount of daily sun they get increases?
I am just getting into vertical gardening, and I made a makeshift hydroponic solution with coffee grounds and crushed almonds (It's a broccoli plant). Is that enough?
Have any of you had an success with solutions from household products? I've been looking into aquaponics, but I'm just not interested yet.
Can we talk about fertilisers? I have no idea what to get.
I would like to only use organic fertilisers and so on, but when I look at the ingredients in organic fertiliser it's usually about 3%N, 0.5P, 1%K, or something around that. How less effective is this than inorganic?
Also, liquid or pellets?
I just truck some in from a local horse barn or cow field. If there are any horse barns with in 50 miles of your place just call them up and offer to muck stalls so you can have the manure. Then compost it for a year at least. If you have a yard, get a grass catcher and compost that too. You can also compost human waste too.
dilute your Urine. Its natural, organic and FREE. It's about 10-1-5. It may need to be pH adjusted for certain plants and diluted in water. The phosphorous is usable by plants without having to breakdown like bone meal or other sources.
Plenty of horse/cattle farms will have a pile of manure thats been sitting there for a year; just ask them what thier oldest pile is and take some. Craigslist has plenty of farmers offering composted manure for people; they sometimes charge but it's usually free.
Be generous with the manure around your leafy veggies-like spinach, chard, cabbage-but go light on your fruiting veggies like tomatoes, or else you'll get a ton of leaves and no fruit. For them, balance it out with bone or feather meal (good, organic source of calcium and phosphorus) that fruiting plants love. One small bag will do for a approximate 10x10 patch, a little goes a long way.
I may transfer them to bigger pots come springtime and keep them outside until winter comes.
Hopefully they'll do well enough to provide me some fruit in the future, but that a ways off from now.
You guys might find this useful
these all in one type advice photos are never the solution. diiferent plants like different things:
>amounts of water, humidity in air, soil ph, soil drainage, amount of light direct/indirect
Blind ignorance. These symptoms are pretty universal among plants. Source- Learned this stuff in college plus personal experience. I just happened to see a picture explaining it on Facebook and decided to share it here
Yes they like different things but show these similar symptoms when lacking particular nutrients. Also the different conditions plants like usually relate to the plants ability to absorb nutrients in those conditions. So if your plant is showing one of these symptoms, it means you may be able to fix it by simply adding the lacked nutrient, or often you have to adapt the soil (ph, water content, too much of another element, etc) so that the plant can better absorb the nutrient it is lacking. There's alot more to this simple infographic if you know what your looking for
>buy all my seeds td
>turns out i shouldnt start them till mid march (south Ontario)
Will never be patient enough for those, same as growing palm trees from seed (Jubaea chilensis takes 60+ years to first flower and grows like 1cm per year, WTF)
I'm at 50°N and tomatoes are already started, they'll still be acceptably small enough once it's planting-out time in mid-April
>Will never be patient enough for those
I have only 1 "bonsai" left (Salix amygdaloides). I need to hurry up and figure out how I want the top to look. I've been developing the roots in open ground and digging it up every year. You can see it in this image>>672948 it is the very spiky plant at the end of that raised bed. All those spikes are 1 season's growth and nearly all will be completely removed in Spring. I just need to see how the largest wound is healing and how the branches will interact with it.
It is a very high maintenance bonsai. It will need repotted 2-3 times each year once it is in a bonsai pot and be trimmed near constantly.
Ever thought of trying succulent bonsai? They grow faster, they are perfect for small pots because they grow in very little soil, and they look pretty awesome. It's not quite traditional, but it's a very nice plant to begin with.
I did the same damn thing. Just so impatient! I decided to start some herbs indoors now to take the edge off things, because they are quite a bit smaller than what I'll be growing outside and I can keep them inside until spring.
Anyone here grow tea plants? I've never heard of anyone growing the plants that you actually make green/black/white etc tea from.
I'm trying to grow a tea garden, so any other plants you'd recommend would be appreciated.
Acmella oleracea, Toothache Plant
Makes your mouth tingle or "buzz" and works well in tea. Easy to grow too.
I have a few questions maybe you guys could help me with.
When you see bean sprouts in like chinese foodor something is it literally just a bean plant they let sprout and pull up? Is there a particular species used for that? And how big should they get before you yank them out?
I would also like to start a raspberry or thimbleberry bush this year, I have a spot, but should I start it from seed or just buy a small bush?
Mung bean? (Vigna radiata)
I recommend getting some plants, not trying them from seed. You can still try with seed, but get plants so you can get going right away.
Anon that asked about a lemon tree a week or 2 ago, everything's going better than expected. Plant is not only alive, but it's also got 3 new leaves since then.
That being said the edges of the bigger leaves are a bit yellow, figuring they've got too much light or something so I'm going to try and come up with a way to tone it down without just leaving them with less time in the light (Currently on a 12hr timer)
What do you mean, there's thousands of succulent species. Thinking of the money tree? Have one standing around here that is to my knowledge around 30 years old, was never pruned but has never flowered.
Is about 50cm in height now and little more in width, wouldn't exactly call that fast growing
Why do you have the light so far away? Assuming it's not incandescent and getting hot as fuck or it supplies other plants too, there's no reason to not put it a couple cm above the seedlings
I think it is incandescent, and the pot is usually pushed farther back, just pulled it out for the picture
I do need to rig up an actual stand for that light, shouldn't be too hard since I work in a machine shop, just gotta have some time
To be fair it probably hasn't been replanted in 10 years or so, when it still was kinda smaller. Probably will have to do so in spring
Then again I read up on the plant on wiki, and apparently the stem diameter doesn't go much above the ~7cm it has right now
Well, my mum had a big-ass jade tree she unintentionally bonsai'd. She had that thing for what...10 yrs? And it was about 3ft. Repoted it about 3x, occasionally interspersed normal water with with water from our fish tank when she cleaned it. Nice tree.
Sprouts can be grown in jars without soil. All sorts or types. Bean, alfalfa, radish, etc. I used to grow my own alfalfa sprouts all the time. You basically put the seeds in a jar and get them wet by adding water then filtering it out. Do this a couple times a day until they start to grow.
I'm growing an avocado, but the new leaves are coming out wrinkled and curled up.
What is wrong?
>tfw the tomato I propagated via sucker is struggling
I blame the shitty cloudy weather here. We're at 9.5h of daylight again and I put it on the only usable south-facing window I have, not even very warm there (maybe 15°C), but what does it help if the sun won't come out for like a week... the lemons next to it are doing fine though
(And no it's not lack of roots, it had already developed roots by early January in a water glass, that's when I put it in the pot and now it's grown to 3x the size of back then, just laggy now - also had put in some standard liquid fertiliser once a week in the recommended dilution)
Put it on a heat mat under a grow light with a small fan blowing on it. The heat mat will warm it up, the light will give it the light it needs, and the fan will simulate the breezes outside, forcing it the strengthen its stems and keep ut from growing leggy.
always trying to make thing more difficult
the day you water; soak the plant real well and keep it in the shade THEN (next day once soil has begun to dry) move it back into sun. also young avocado trees should be gradually introduced to full sun as they are more sensitive to burning
Would do if my grow light space weren't already pre-occupied by the even needier basil and thyme (fan is blowing there two for a couple hours)
Had also looked for heat mats already some while ago just for fun, but €50-100? Nah fuck that, not spending so much on a single, annual plant
Jesus fuck, why so much for just a heat mat? Got mine for what, 10$? Just go to a local home depot or the equivalent you have overseas there and get it from them. Those hydrophonic places overcharge.
No, those just cook things. They are intended for top surface use, not placed under things. They burn up if your put them under things.
Use a light bulb in a box, set plant on box. Use an air vent in the box to adjust temperatures. It can be made of cardboard and use whatever lowish wattage bulb you want. Nothing over say 40watt.
I've now gone ahead and replaced the thyme under my grow light with the tomato, but as you can see it's not sitting very ideally.
Temps there are around 18-20°C which should be enough and not require extra heating.
(The thyme went onto the rack I recently built if someone remembers, which I meanwhile extended with some alu foil coated press boards to maximise daylight, and relocated on a WSW window, under which other thyme has been doing OK, pic of that in next post)
Well, yeah they burn uh p if you put them under a shit-ton of towels or other crap in a box, yes, they burn up. Put them under a pot though, they only get 10° warmer than the surrounding air.
Probably all of them are fungus gnats, they damaged my parsley seedlings (not pictured) very badly, but since I've started watering with Bti emulsion (1 drop in 2 litres, a bacillus killing the root-eating larvae) I think I got it more or less under control. For some reason the flies get especially attracted by my watermelon seedling, always see one of those shits (and squish it if I do so) crawling on/in that very pot which I'm not even keeping very moist
I got my heating mat from these guys. They look janky as fuck but they're the cheapest seed mats I could find and mine has worked well.
Call me a safety nut, but everything that has to do with heating and doesn't come with a temp control or at least some CE certificate is kinda, uh, "experimental" to me - maybe that's the reason they aren't sold as cheap here, because they all failed safety tests(?)
If the seed mats get 10° warmer than the surrounding air, and you keep your house really warm, I can see it baking the seed trays. My house is chilly, though, so I haven't had any problems.
Fair enough. I just usually put mine on a contertop that wont catch fire in a well-ventilated area. For a while I even had everything in a defunct steel bathtub because nobody used that bathroom and the bathtub was a nice, reflective white. Combined with a white shower curtain it was a good setup.
Fair enough, I was thinking more along the lines of using the heat for germination and then moving them to the windows once they break ground.
Then again it's summer now so I'm not worried about any of that yet.
Not only is the nutrient content fantastic it is also great for encouraging the production of beneficial microbes in the soil and mulch layer, these microbes help break down matter into forms bio-available to the plants and encourages larger organisms which eat the microbes such as earth worms.
guys am i doing composting right?
i grabbed a few stuff from around the house like lemon peels, old bread, organic material, etc. then i put some soil in a pot, placed the compost and covered it with more soil.
put in a few worms and watered it a little because the soil was dry.
should i add more soil?
should i add some shit to the mix?
Checked the website of a local one, they apparently don't have mats (maybe in the store itself) but heating cables with more acceptable prices (comes in 3 wattages), though no thermoregulation (but I could kinda to that with a timer I guess as I have have a stick-in thermometer to figure it out) and it's meant to be put in sand, cop or not?
I'll have to plant out a Yucca elephantipes in the upcoming spring into the garden (zone 8a) anyway because it's become way too big for a pot container and bringing it inside, so the cable could then double as a soil anti-frost device in cold winter nights
This is backwards. You put the soil and worms in first. Then put the fresh kitchen scraps on the surface of the soil. Bacteria start to rot the scraps and the worms start eating it. You may use black soldier fly larva to speed up the process.
This is called "vermicomposting" and is different from traditional composting methods. You don't add manure to this.
When you do normal composting you don't add soil. You add everything together and let it see for as little as 1 year. After that you can add it to your soil. The length of time can be a bit shorter or a bit longer. It really depends on how fast it is composting and what you are putting into it.
Burying the scraps in soil will only prolong the amount of time needed to compost them. You should only use fully composted materials for planting. If you don't, you risk root burn, plant diseases, increased pest activity, and human diseases.
I have an open air, compost pile, in a raised bed in my garden. It will eventually be a growing bed, but not for at least another year. Even then, I may decide to let it go for yet another year.
It really makes me wonder what the plants are uptaking from the polluted soil. Also what plants are those? I can see corn, some type of pumpkin/melon/squash family plants but I'm not familiar with the stuff on the far left that has 5 lobed per leaf I think.
If anyone is wondering. The of the best plants you can use to help regenerate a polluted environment to help remove the pollutants is Lambs Quarter. It uptakes a great range of pollutants. Just don't eat it when you are doing this because you'd be eating all the pollutants too. You instead harvest them and dispose of them at a waste management site. Normal gardening use of Lambs Quarters is fully edible, it is just like spinach only tastier. It grows like crazy and is very easy to germinate. Harvest and eat when they are less than 12 inches tall for the best most tender stems and less problems with leaf miner (their worst pest.)
About a month ago you guys inspired me to grow some herbs, so I started with oregano and thyme.
My oregano has grown really well, but last week I noticed a serious red mite infestation. I never realised how important cecking for pests was, so the infestation was completely all over the plant.
I got some insecticide (soap salts of fatty acids) and it killed most of them, but they seem to linger around in the bottom. Since the plant is so bushy it's hard to get to them in the undergrowth under the leaves.
Is it worth trying to save the plant or should I just burn it? I've sprayed it three times in the past week and they still linger. There were some on the thyme, but since I got it early there were only a few and they haven't returned.
So.... the sun is out for the first time today in a week or so, at least the first time since I relocated my rack (>>681073) to the WSW window
I'm monitoring temps there with a radio thermometer, and now they've peaked at 41°C/106°F in the afternoon.
Am I baking my stuff? Should I install some PC fans for better ventilation?
any one here have experience with overwintering peppers ? looking specifically for one i can treat as a perennial or as close to that
If we're talking surviving the winter- I prune them to a manageable size if needed, leaving some leaves. Kinda neglect them at around 55-65F for the winter months, watering to keep them alive. Then prune them like your pic in early spring when setting them back outside.
If you want them to be pretty and full of foliage year-round, someone else may be able to help you with that.
Take it to the shower and hose it down once a day. Keep it separated from all other plants.
In the mean time, grow another batch. Any soil from the infected plant should be freezed and/or baked.
Yeah, I grow mine indoors in the winter, they bloom, fruit, and grow inside. They grow really well indoors provided they have proper lighting.
Already? It barely had longer than 2cm roots 3 weeks ago, and I don't see anything growing out of the drain hole at the bottom yet (which for me is usually the indication to re-pot plants generally)
Anyway, after having it sit under the grow light for 2 days, it slightly looks fitter now I think (took it away to take the photo)
>no one grows decorative plants.
what a bore.
hope your family doesn't have a history of dementia then.
I make all my bonsai from wild plants.
I'd favor the top row and the first one in the second row for indoor plants because they tend to remain more compact with less effort. Maybe the bird's eye as well. Good luck with it whatever you decide to do.
>Engineer tries to garden
This little bastard better live.
How's the height of the grow light looking?
wasnt intentional -> i had been taking them out of the water for 20mins 2-3 times a day just so the roots could air.
theyre alive and SLOWLY recovering
i also started a couple more as backup. not sure what kind the big ones are, maybe Reed or Gwen? smaller 3 are Hass like my first 2(possibly failures)
my first wave of lemons, i picked the best 3 of the batch. rosemary in front row
extra pics sry about quality, laptop cam basically guessing where to shoot
i saw videos of a guy on youtube who collected trees some as old as 150-175(estimated age) and even had found trees up to 400 years but said they were not movable or if attempted very high chance of killing the plant
people often don't realize that 150 years is nothing for a tree, the lowest age class of trees is about 120.
most trees can reach 1000+ without issues, if we didn't chop them down before that atleast.
>sharing my work
yeah ok, whatever you wanna call it, lad
aw shit! bugs btfo!
Depnds. Pioneer ones like Ailanthus altissima rarely reach 150, but some oaks, mammoth trees and the likes can easily go beyond 1000.
Even some shrubs like roses can.
Some conifers can go up to almost 10k: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_Tjikko
the lowest age class of trees is 80-120 years.
almost all trees live longer than 200 if they're not chopped down.
your average everyday species like oaks also reach 1000-2000+ no problems.
the only trees that struggle to reach old age are things like willows.
your perm ban hasn't expired yet, go back to shitposting on /an/
change de to en, simple lad now that wasnt so hard
Zucchinis and basil are doing really well at the moment, they've been in the ground for around 2 weeks and have exploded in size, basil plants have all survived and one of the cucumbers died (was kind of expecting that.)
Got some cabbage, broccoli and lettuce seeds sprouting at the moment, might try to squeeze them in when they're ready.
Here's the basil lads. Thyme, Rosemary, Marconi Rossi capsicum and lemongrass in the background.
Australia, around 35 latitude bro. We have a strange localised Mediterranean climate that yields bitter and wet winters and super dry summers with high heat.
If you can fight the soil moisture evaporation you can grow most non tropical plants, subsurface watering and thick mulch are absolute necessities here!