so husqvarna is at the bottom rung. dont get me wrong i love husqvarna i mean goddamn my husqvarna lawnmower has run without flaw almost 20 years now. but that doesnt mean the axes will be compareablr. especialy now that most of the factories are .... eeeeh what the heck this got waaay to confusing to write out, ive only owned gransfors(ignore Biltema) and hultafors (ignore Bahco) axes. how does a Husqvarna axe stand up?
>>647041 their able to make it cheaper because its not finished perfectly like a brooks or wetterlings. the edge was not very sharp the handle needed sanding and the sheath sucks. with a little work its a great tool. its hand forged swedish steel with a very nice hickory handle. in mine the grain is very tight and damn near vertical.
Push the head onto the handle. It probably won't go on all the way but this is ok. The black marks are where the steel was rubbing against the wood. Use a file, rasp or 80 grit sand paper to remove the marks and then refit.
Hold the axe upside down and hit the knob of the handle with a mallet. Remember that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. So hitting the know will force the head onto the handle. No need to hit the head. Less chance of damaging the head. Look for a tight fit.
>>647208 Oh yeah, not knocking that at all. I've sat in the Duluth pack store and admired the Gransfors display and their 400 dollar backpacks, but I don't have the money to throw away on that stuff. I get the collector part though. But higher functionality because you spend 5x the price on your axe is a fallacy as far as I'm concerned. I've got no problem with someone saying "I bought this axe cause I liked how it looked/felt" but if they say it "works better", opinion discarded.
With abou 3/8 inch exposed you can now add the wedge. Add copious amount of boiled linseed oil for two reasons. Lubricant so it's easier to drive the wedge And the wood will absorb the oil, swell and make a tighter fit,
>>647219 They would forge soft metal at the pole and hardened steel at the bit. You can see a line in this picture >>647186 between the hard and soft steel. Just make sure there is enough metal at the bit. As the axe is used and sharpened, the bit is worn away,
>>647219 There's an original Marbles safety axe in the back of a flea market warehouse in Steelville, Missouri that has a 60$ price tag on it and is in pretty good shape. I stuck it there. Cause I'm an idiot and was gonna come back and buy it and didn't. Start there.
Shit son that's a steal, you dun goofed. I've been looking a for a Marbles safety axe at a good price. The only one I've found here up north was at an antique shop for $250. Beautiful condition with the metal sheathe still attached, but that's way too rich for my blood.
I like to cut the wood flush with the eye. Because I'm going to use a step wedge, Others like to keep the wood proud about 1/4 inch. Without a step wedge. The theory is when the head gets loose you can pound the wood wedge deeper, Personal preference, do what you want. I use blo to keep the wood from shrinking,
>>647232 Yeah, looked just about like that. Like I said, in good shape. I am currently a couple thousand miles away and don't see myself going back any time soon. In case anyone is nearby, it's right off the main freeway at the exit to Cuba, two large warehouses advertising antiques. Can't miss it. I did get a pile of sven saws still in the package for 5 bucks a pop at a thrift store in the same town though. They're sitting on the floor as I speak. Guy had about 20 more at another location he was willing to go get but I was on my way out of town.
Used the bench grinder to make the step wedge from some steel I had. Or you can buy on at the hardware store for about $1. When grinding steel you can get the steel too hot. This will destroy the temper so you want to avoid this. You can see the burn marks in the steel. But for this application it's not a big deal. I'll cut this off with a hack saw,
Clean up the edges to make the work look good. Add more blo to the cut at the eye and the rest of the handle. Some suggest soaking the head in a pan containing blo. Just remember as blo dries on a rag it becomes exothermic, meaning it gives off heat. Enough heat to combust and burn your house down. Dispose of oily rags properly
>>647250 >>647271 >>647287 I assume you are the same fag. And you have no clue what you are talking about. All other Anons should ignore your uneducated and ignorant posts. Thanks for shit posting in what is otherwise a good thread.
If the metal is still there try steeling it like a motherfucker before you hit it with files or stones.
If it's really bad it might not fix it but it might lessen the damage. If you just go straight to sharpening it you might be left with a chip out of it. That's not the end of the world but you'll save yourself some work if steeling it works and if it doesn't work you probably won't have made it any worse.
A wedge, steel or timber driven across the grain of the primary wedge. I never claimed it to have anything to do with racing axes. Most people who know axes wouldnt dream of using anything other than a single wedge. Cross/step wedges are for crappy hardware store axes.
>>648334 >>648335 looks similar to my old vaughan. it's a good hatshit for light woodcraft and general /diy/ but it's not great for processing firewood or anything heavy duty. it's just too light. i had to upgrade to an estwing.
the striker on the back and the nail/stake pull on those carpenter's hatshits is great though.
I work for the USFS and I've found that the information in "An Axe To Grind" on rehandling isn't always the best. My current method (with zero issues so far) has been to rehang the head with only a single wooden wedge. Instead of cutting the handle flush with the head I leave it about a half inch long and simply drive the wooden wedge in until it mushrooms over the top. After the wedge is bottomed out or broken off I clean it up with a grinder and a rasp and give it a good soak with linseed oil. If you're using a tool that gets a lot of impact (like an axe or sledge) then I recommend the "mushroom" top to lock the head in. Doesn't look as pretty but it holds.
I only use the small aluminum wedges if I need to shore up something that's already been handled. A couple small aluminum wedges at a 45 degree angle usually gives another season of life to a handle.
>>648466 Just read the thread This anon >>647234 says there are two schools of thought One is to cut flush and use a wedge. One is to leave some wood as you suggest. Who is right? Or is it just personal preference?
>>647271 >easier to drill out and remove for rehandling That's pure ignorance. Axe eyes are smaller at the bottom and larger at the top. You cut the handle off at the bottom of the head and it drives out easily. You drill jack shit.
>>647441 Varnish can also lead to blisters when using the tool and sweating. Get rid of it.
>>648335 Soak it in apple cider vinegar for a couple of weeks. The rust will come off with a good scrubbing and it'll have a nice patina.
>>648630 >If I want to reuse the handle you can screw into the wedge and lift it out with a hammer. Yep, that should work. I don't reuse handles, so the thought hadn't occurred to me.
>If I dont want to reuse it I will actually saw down the handle to a taper and hit the handle so the head climbs up onto the thinner part and becomes loose then just saw it off. I can see this working as well. Not the way I do it, but there's lots of ways to skin a cat and a skinned cat is always better than a live one.
>>648627 Excellent logic there, bub. >the handle is the same size all the way up and down where it goes into the head >the head cannot, therefore, have a smaller eye at the bottom than the top >because the handle doesn't have to go into the smaller end >and because if the bottom was bigger, or even the same size, the head wouldn't fly off every time you swing it >and because that's a factory handle that hasn't been cut down to fit the eye of its prospective head
Here's a pic of my boy's axe after I put the handle on it. I've since fixed that horrible angle, but haven't bothered to take a picture yet. Can't find any brand name, got it at a garage sale for about $5. Took a couple of files to it for a couple of hours, then a stone, then a strop (not really necessary, but it makes the edge pretty and shiny) and put a good convex edge on it. Haven't had to sharpen it in a while, but I also don't use it very often.
>>648486 This is definitely personal preference. I cut it long AND use a wooden wedge. Obviously you can get the head to sit well even if you cut it flush but I've found that leaving it long to mushroom over keeps the head on longer. There isn't any real reason to cut it flush unless you can't stand the way it looks (pretty manky with the mushroomed top).
>found an 8 lb old sledge hammer head in my basement Going to put a fibreglass handle on it >going to get a 6 and 8 lb splitting maul heads >probably going to fibreglass handle as well >also trying to find a nice axe head This I'm going to get a wooden handle , because I don't think I'd be able to find one the shape I want in fibreglass
For the hammer and for the mauls a simple handle is good, and durribility is top priority
Also totally unrelated, do any of you guys paint/spraypaint the head of your sledge/maul/axes?
I've never done it but recently came.to a fellow (who owns a tree company) who sprays all of his tools, not the edge of course
I have a question... Has anyone here bought a axe from >counciltool DOT com
?? they seem to have lots of choices. seems like they deal in mass orders a lot, but their website also sells in single orders. Haven't ever heard of them until today and was seriously thinking about ordering an axe, Or two..
I got a question regarding axe head patterns. I saw that Hultafors is offering a felling axe with a north american pattern head: http://www.hultafors.com/hand-tools/cutting/axes/felling-axes/felling-axe-hy-10/ I'm especially interested in the 840108 HY 10-1,0 SV model.
Now what is the difference (pro's and con's in use) of a north American pattern head in comparison with the classic Scandinavian Forest axe pattern?
>>657418 I held off on answering in case a better axefag came along, but I'll give you the short version because that's about all I know. >sweeping generalities incoming A European axe pattern tends to be thin behind the cutting edge compared to an American axe pattern. That means a European axe will bite deeper in a cut, is slightly more prone to getting stuck, and is better for fine work. An American axe pattern will not bite quite as deeply, get stuck less often, and split better. Either will chop down a tree nicely.
>>657345 I'm a desert rat and a bass/cat fisherman who only takes his axes /out/ half a dozen times a year, so I spend all my money on hookers and BLO. I've used tung oil on other wood, though, and think it would be just fine on an axe haft.
>>657852 Thanks for your answer >A European axe pattern tends to be thin behind the cutting edge compared to an American axe pattern. Now heres the strange bit, I saw the axe in my local hardware store, and in my opinion it gots a thin blade. Pic is the same axe (0.9kg head on the left) versus GB forest axe. (Pic is courtesy of Mr. Woodtrekker, not mine) He made a good review on http://woodtrekker.blogspot.ch/2011/03/hultaforshults-bruk-agdor-axe-hy-10-09.html
He gave the Hultafors a nice review, still I don't get the difference between the patterns. Does this mean the Skandi pattern is more a jack of all trades and the American one is more a dedicated tree-cutter?
Hi guys, i bought this rusty axe today for 4,50 euros Inb4 euro fag I've been chopping and splicing firewood for like 8 years at the scouts But I've never known how to sharpen an axe Any pro tips for that? Also what's the difference between an axe and a hatchet? And if I've sharpen it, will this axe be good enough to take with me on hiking/camping trips?
>>660072 Get/make a new handle for it and clean up the head before trying to sharpen it. Now as for sharpening and honing the edge there are a few ways of approaching it: https://youtu.be/JIZBwT-VDBY or https://youtu.be/NjEv0VqXtlw depending on how sharp you want it. >Also what's the difference between an axe and a hatchet? There are multiple kinds of axe, a hatchet is more so what you'd while camping if you're not planning on staying out for long. Chances are in the scouts you used splitting axes and mauls, unless your leaders or whatever were retarded. >And if I've sharpen it, will this axe be good enough to take with me on hiking/camping trips? I'd clean it up first, find and factory/maker marks and report back with better pics. Soak the head in acetone over night and scrub thoroughly with steel wool a coarse sandpaper. You WILL need a new handle though.
>>660084 Thanks ALOT At the scouts we use little spitting axes and a splitting mault indeed My dad has sharpened it a bit with a fiddle, but I'll make a new handle myself first (it's nice to have a little project again)
About the mark, there is a crown on it, with the number 600 beneath it, and idk if this is helpful but there are signs of red paint
>>660072 Put a longer handle on it. You will thank me. I ran around with a tiny hatchet like that for years until I grabbed a slightly longer handled one on a whim and immediately kicked myself in the face after using it. So mad I didn't do it earlier. Makes doing everything easier.
>>660366 Noice. I've got two, one of which has a curved cutting edge like a real axe. It's better for general innawoodsing, not so good for making straight lines and sharp corners when you're cutting with it. My grandfather called it a "bridge hammer," said he got it from someone who used to use it making railroad trestles some time before WWII.
>>661003 >Then to find out i could've just burned the handle away If you want to ruin the head's temper, then sure.
The correct method would have been to saw off the handle as close the the head as possible, then use a combination of using a drill and tapping out the handle remnants from the bottom out through the top with a hammer.
>>657876 American pattern is just a bit bulkier behind the bit. Not that big a difference, really. An axe is a tool that will do many things well if you take time to learn how to do them and maintain the tool. Either will do just fine for just about anything. American pattern is probably a bit better for splitting, Euro pattern is probably a bit better for felling. Negligible difference for most folks, all other things being equal.
>>662842 They're pretty good at chopping light firewood or small bones (rabbit, fallow deer and such). They're pretty light and well balanced too. With a bit of practice you could hit a moving target at 15-20 paces.
Here's a pic of the axe my female bought me for Christmas. Best Made Company "Hudson Bay" axe, it's a Council Tool Velvicut with a nice leather cover and a slightly longer handle, basically.
2 pound head, 26" handle.
I figure it'll be perfect for strapping to the side of my pack.
Now the real question, anybody have a good guide to axe care? This is the first axe I've owned that wasn't a shitty hardware store special, and I'd like it to be something I own the rest of my life. What should I use to clean / polish the head? How do I sharpen it without fucking the blade contour etc?
I've been applying a coat of Danish oil every day for the last week or so, in hopes that if I get enough polymerized oil soaked into the handle that it'll add a little resistance to water and wear.
Well, I had resigned myself to getting a husqvarna for my first axe since it was priced lower but still decent quality, but then yesterday I went to a nearby sporting goods store just to wander around. At the end of one of the isles I find this... So now I have a Scandinavian Forest Axe, and I am quite happy.
New project. 8 lb splitting maul my dad for in a flea market for $10 that probably sat upside down on the ground and the eye part rotted and head was pitted. Cut about 3 inches off the handle and going to reuse it, so it'll be about 32 inches.
How do you guys feel about Estwing axes? I work construction and love their framing hammers. They sale them at the local hardware store and need to replace my worn out ancient axe. I am a little skeptical of the handle.
>>675451 I've got one of the hatchets with the stacked leather washer handle. Took a bit to sand off the lacquer and use neetsfoot oil on the washers, but the grip is great now. Took a good while to put a decent convex edge on it. It holds the edge pretty well. There is the issue of shock dampening that doesn't happen because the handle isn't wood, but I don't use it often enough to care. If you used it several times a week for more than a few minutes, you'd be better served with a wooden handle.
>>672983 What store is this? I want a Scandinavian forest axe but everyone online is sold out or backordered. I have a Ole master mechanic double bit, true temper felling axe, and hatchets for day, I just love the story and quality with GB. You don't get that with other axes now a days.
>>647949 If you think that's bad, you should check out the rest of his instagram dude uses a hashtag for every other word and constantly uses the hashtag "reallumberjack" and "crosscutsawyer" as if he knows anything about that stuff.
Recently started watching Wranglerstar, saw a video about the Marbles Camp axe. Seem's really nice and the price is a huge turn on considering the review. No varnish or oil on the handle, so you're free to do whatever you want to it.
I can get it online for 32 dollars including shipping, and I'd prefer to make my own sheath for it.
It's pretty solid. I got it when it was only $20 right after that vid came out. Now its popularity is through the roof and you can't find it cheap anymore. $35-40 is probably the max that it's worth though.
You don't get used to it, anon. Your work is something you have to do, but you don't need to fuck up your hands on purpose, on your own time.
As a side note my country's forest department has placed axes like that with some raw firewood in some recreational nature areas. They are so dull and useless no one would ever steal them. There is a cut and welded angle in the end of the handle.
>>681556 dunno but i wish i would see once people using armor (any kind really they only have teeth even tough leather would work) shield-walls and spears and war-hammers against zombies for a change not fucking flimsy machetes and fucking baseball bats.
>>663809 it's a helko - german make. looks similar to their blackforest woodworker axe in tradition axes... about 110USD new. ...so good find. I recommend a little working with about 150-1500 grit sandpaper to get a like new finish and maybe spray with some kind of coating to protect the head. apparently the handles are made from hickory and the head seems to be C45 carbon steel. Assuming methods haven't changed.
>>664293 >Council Tool Velvicut like the look of that thing. according to their website it's $55 and made in the USA. Have you used it yet? I only found 1 review where the guy was comparing it to granfors and said it was on par. Noticed the edge isn't as concave as a gransfors so I'd guess it'd be a decent splitter but maybe would get stuck more often. I'd also be curious how sharp the edge can get.
>>647012 As a long time kukri user who owns an 18" HI M43 and has owned a Kukri house 15" british army style I'm curious what all the fuss is about axes.
Specifically, I'm looking to downgrade to something more like .7-1 lb to make it easier on muh hips when backpacking and it seems like you might get more bang for your buck out of an axe than a kukri at that weight.
Nothing wrong with my M43 except that it's over two pounds.
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