Foxbody thread! Post LOTS of fucking AWESOME foxes and talk about ones you've had, have or some day will have!
First car, not a picture of mine but mine was identical except I had flaming eagle decals on the side.
Mine was also a 1982 not a 1980
Foxes that arent Shitstangs or Crapis are the best
Any Chevyfags want to tell me how great the LS1 is again?
I said fucking AWESOME.
It's neat that there are sleeper foxes but you could at least post awesome examples thereof.
but maybe I think stuff like this is more awesome than drag cars
thats how I feel about people who like Mustangs and Capris
dat fuel pump whine
must be a Walbro kek
Tons of us do but this thread seems weirdly Fairmont-focused. It's the edgiest fox, you know.
God fucking damnit I give up
Here's an engine bay
you asked how I can like them but not like Mustangs and Capris
I gave you my reason
This thread hurt muh feels
There cheap why would nobody here own one
Because nobody on /o/ actually owns cars we're all video game playing bus riding plebs.
>when you can get a new edge for around the same
>straight, sharp lines vs. bar of molten soap
>lightest iron block V8 vs. early, heavy as balls Mod motor
>light as fuck chassis
>huge aftermarket support
>easy to find documented engine swaps
BBF>SBF>POWER GAP>SOHC 4.6 Mod motor
>not buying a v6 new edge swapping a 351 windsor
pleb-tier as fuck families
Can any stock bottom end, stock block, stock cylinder heads BBF reliably make 2,300 hp with a pair of snails? The 4.6 can all the while being better in almost performance category (weight, power, cost, and so on).
Let me put it this way. If you want to reliably make 2,300 hp from a BBF for cylinder heads you need P51 heads from Kaase. Those are going to run you $2,500. Running at stock block with a stock crank and aftermarket rods and pistons might be an option, but not a reliable one. So full custom block and bottom end. We'll say very conservatively $5k. Then you still have the intake, fuel system (pretty much going to have to be port EFI for this), the snails themselves. So maybe a DIY guy could build a 2,300 hp twin turbo BBF for $20-25k. Instead they could just go get a production 4.6. Change the pistons and rods. Add a fuel system, intake, and some snails and make 2,300+ hp in a light package. No exotic aftermarket cylinder heads, blocks, or crank and 1/2 the cubes or more. Man modern tech like DOHC and stronger materials are great!
>not buying a bubble stang and swapping in a 351 cleveland
baka desu senpai
>stock 4.5 block making 2300 hp wih just new rods and pistons
sir what the fuck are you smoking
I love my OHC tho, but I cant belive you
the only good cleveland engines are the aussie ones, the americans are rare and overpriced
Car was built for Drag Week to drive thousands of street miles and then cut 6 second passes. Instead converted to full drag spec and reliably cuts 5s @ over 250 mph.
Yeah they are built fucking Ford tough. For a cast aluminum block to take 52-60 psi of boost no problem is amazing. What Mod motors lack in head to head naturally aspirated competition with LSx engines they make up for in handling boost. They have a huge advantage with the massive cylinder heads that have much more clamping force to handle the high boost/nitrous. Most production LSx blocks could handle 1,800 hp or more under boost, but you have to mitigate cylinder head lift at those levels. I worked with a guy that had a stock 2v 4.6. He put a huge Kenne Bell on it and upped the fuel pressure had the ECU flashed and that car made 625 to the tire no problem.
>get a production 4.6. Change the pistons and rods. Add a fuel system, intake, and some snails and make 2,300+ hp in a light package
You forgot the part where you need to fill the block with cement, have a custom billet crank, cams and professionally ported heads.
Also, that fuel system is going to need to flow like a firehose from tank to intake port, and custom intakes aren't cheap.
But, other than that you're not all that delusional.
The block is full water. No Hard Blok in the engine block. Like I said the engine was originally built to be a dual purpose street strip engine for an unlimited Hot Rod Drag Week fastest street car. The crank is stock production. I believe the heads were CNC ported, but that's not a huge thing in today's world where you can buy off the shelf CNC ported heads of have it done at a competent shop for cheap (taking the skill out of hand porting actually drives the cost down once you get past the fixed costs of owning a very expensive CNC machine and tooling up the 1st example of a cylinder head). For sure the cams are going to be custom grind. You can get those from Comp Cams or a similar place for about $1,400 (keep in mind that's 4 custom grind cams). Sure the fuel system is built, and those CNC intakes aren't cheap. But you'll need a similarly priced fuel system and intake for the BBF. Basically with the BBF you need aftermarket everything. For the 4.6 you can at least use some stock parts. It's going to be cheaper, more reliable, and make more power than any BBF you can build for the same cost.
Can anyone give me some ideas for what to do next as I'm adding power to my fox on a budget? I just put in 373 gears and redid the exhaust. I was thinking GT40 heads and explorer intake next along with mass air conversion, then a cam.
No. I don't want to put that strain on my engine, and I want bolt-on power rather than temporary boost.
Ugliest are definitely early fifth gens.
Nah man a set if iron gt40 geads off an explorer will get you the biggest bang for your buck than any mild cam letter cam. You could get a good set for $100 at a junk yard or on craigslist.
>liking the New Edge Cuckstang design
Heads 165 to 170cfm. Intake and cam that make power in the rpm range you want. And exhaust(long tubes or nothing). Don't forget bigger throttle body, MAF, and injectors. Now you have a 302 that makes around 300whp or more depending on how serious you get with the heads and cam.
Fuck figuring out fuel injection so just get a performance carb. E303 cam for maximum ford respect, valve springs to run it. Headers like mentioned before. Those 3 things will turn it from a mule to a mustang
Pissing of purists since birth
Got an 84 hatchback behind the garage. Going to start working on it when it gets a bit warmer outside. No idea what the previous owner did to it, so it should be fun. It's also been sitting for a few years.
I have one, owned multiple
I wish winter would be over sooner so I could start working on mine sooner. Plans are being made. Gonna rebuild the motor,refresh the diff and get some decent subframe connectors welded in this year, work on handling stuff the next year.
Oh shit, I forgot my actual question: Anyone have experience with GT40X heads vs the stock heads? I know the stock ones are garbage, but most forum people are comparing them to ported gt40s or gt40ps.
I want new tires for the best handling on my foxbody, and I'm prepared to roll lips to get 'em. I'm thinkin' 245/45-17 front, 275/40-17 rear. Remember, my priority is cornering.
What are your experiences with bigger tires on foxbodies, and what do you think of my numbers?
I think you're wrong.
305s on 17x9.5 wheels fit rear, if you roll the fenders.
Get new rear control arms and delete quad shocks, then if you roll, you can fit a fuckin house in there.
You're going to want to go for a square setup or close to it for handling unless you've got your Fox to 50/50 weight distribution. With an all aluminum engine and light weight k-member the Fox is about 52% nose heavy so running more than 10-15 mm section width out back over the front will cause you to have to tune the understeer out first, which can limit overall adjustment.
I'd say 2,900-3,300 lbs is possible if you have a full interior. Most of the drag cars I've seen that are fully stripped interior (cage added back in) with lightweight front suspension, lightweight wheels, SBF with aluminum heads, T5 transmission, Ford 8.8" rear end weigh around 2,950 lbs or so.
Oh aorry, I meant I couldn't find any stock vs gt40x comparisons. I'm shooting for 300+ crank hp, I figure like 700 dollars for a brand new set of aluminum heads with good valve springs already in them is a good deal. I can make up for not porting them with a decent cam.
Where can you get a set of new aluminum SBF heads assembled with springs for $700? I can almost guarantee you're buying into Chinese junk that's going to perform terribly.
>I can make up for not porting them with a decent cam.
No, you cannot.
Honestly, you'll get great results with that especially for a street engine. You want those smaller runner heads to create velocity. Port them out a bit to smooth the ports up, gain a small amount of flow without losing much if any velocity.
Anyone from the NY area?
Not a bad deal for a road race/autoX Fairmont. Looks like you could go run in it in a World Racing League or Optima Ultimate Street Car event the week after you bought it.
Since you seem like you know what you're taliking about, what cam(s) have you had any personal experience with? I've been told there's way better options than the e303 out there, but streetability is still key.
I honestly don't do too much SBF stuff. Figure out what your engine setup is going to be. Call Comp Cams. Tell them about your engine and how you plan to use it. For free they will give you a decent recommendation. Look for cams with similar specs if you don't want to buy a Comp. I often do that and I also use Dyno simulation programs to pick SBC cams. Would work for SBF too. I have a custom grind in my SBC because I wanted to run a lift rule style cam with a bunch of duration which wasn't available off the shelf.