It's that time again
bmw general; cold edition
>those winter feels
>no heated garage to work on it
>but blizzaks and rear wheel drive give that magic combo of traction when you need it, easy controllable drifts when you don't
Damn, if I would have known of this thread I wouldn't have posted this in the dead E30 thread.
Anyway here goes..
Im considering of buying an E39 520i automatic with LPG installed. It's a '95.
Supposedly it just got its rust repaired and doors replaced due to rust.
What should I watch out for? How underpowered will it be with an engine that small?
pic related, the car in question is in this color
Considering getting my first bimmer. Does this sound like a good deal?
>2008 3 series coupe
> 60k miles
> full heated leather, upgraded speakers, parking sensors, few other sweet options
> drove it and clutch, gears, etc. feel looked after, handles like a dream too
> £10,900 asking price
make sure it's got the sport package (different steering wheel and seats with thigh extensions)
make sure it's RWD
if it's your first bmw, i'd avoid the turbocharged 335i. it's a good engine but it needs care.
also recommendation, try to find one with the comfort access feature, go look it up.
to see if a car has it, punch the last 7 digits of the VIN number into something like http://www.bimmer.work/ to pull the original build sheet and check for the comfort access option
Should have mentioned it's a 325i. I've tried the 335i and although it's a fucking rocket ship, I'd never get reasonable insurance on it.
It's definitely an M Sport and RWD.
As for comfort access, the car locked when I walked away from it, so I would guess that it does. I'll check the VIN anyway and see what comes up.
eeeh, 325's ok, the 328 would be better though.
then again i don't know the breakdown of models in euroland, we in the usa only got the 325/330 for 2006, and every subsequent year was just the 328 (with the n52b28 engine) and the 335i (with the n54 engine)
My old (as in no longer in my possession) M3, S50B30.
yeah we got some 328i`s but I think all of them have been imported from the U.S which means they are either ex-flood damaged or ex-totaled since there is never any service history on the 328s.
what about the automatic transmissions makes them a headache? Costly to maintain? Not durable?
Maybe also worth mentioning I live in Europe. Do US and European versions have different transmissions? If so which one were you refering to?
>dislike e39 styling
well, no wonder you drive an f10
E46 coupebro checking in, amazing this car is 15 years old now.
E36 M3 any gud?
USAfag here, so only have access to US engine version
Really want to pull the trigger on a 2011 E90 M3. Found one base with no nav in interlagos blue.
Muh manual V8 sedan. Any thoughts?
Supposedly BMW has fixed the rod bearing issue by 2011 and the S65 is purportedly reliable in comparison to their other motors.
Oh, such a beautiful car. Up there with the E65 of all time best looking cars.
If you have a 3L engine you can upgrade it to 330i. I did this with my E60 523i -> 525i (N52B25 2.5L engine). I think 325i is just a downtuned N52B30. The difference is in the intake manifold (2 DISA valves on the 330i one - just buy a used one and swap in/out) and software (flash DME with 330i software - but it has to be modified to match "power class" of the CAS - car access module, search power class byte). It works. The added bonus is that at least in my country you pay insurance for the lower powered version.
anyone else's windows freeze shut?
E46 here, its annoying as fuck.
also, everything generally feels like shit in the cold.
-runs like shit for first 5-10 minutes
hell, even the suspension (maybe its just my winter tires)
I don't think e46s were made for canadian winters. Cant wait for spring.
E65 is a different era car with a different designer, was supposed to be ''revolutionary''
I had a strange feeling that my e46 recaro leather seats are too hard and uncomfortable in the cold, but that could have been just me lol.
Going to the dealership this weekend to see if I can haggle a good price on an M235i. I'd want the RWD model with the 6 speed manual and the moonroof deletion. The salesman told me all they order is the xDrive models with an automatic, so I'd have to special order. Hopefully special ordering doesn't affect working out a deal.
Currently drive an E36 M3...and a Golf TDI.
The 325 can be converted into a 330 by swapping the intake manifold and getting a tune. Gains are typically 30-40hp and ft lbs. googling 3 stage intake should steer you in the right direction.
it's ok to have bad taste, everything is subjective after all
E46 316i sport owner reporting in from a few threads ago, it was super cheap so no fucks given about its slowness.
New timing chain installed and valvetronic temporally fixed to see if it was capable of running on all cylinders. Inlet cam and valvetronic shaft out next for proper repairs.
Then I've got to work out how to remove mould from alcantara seats.
I'm not judging you, it's actually as expected coming from a namefag.
indeed, if i remember correctly just swapping to an m50 intake manifold and an s52 cam gets you very, very close to the m3's power output
so basically just get a 328is and do that, much cheaper and you get comparable powerformance out of the engine, don't know what suspension stuff was different though
10.5 at best I'd say. It should handle quite well with 2 cylinders less weight up front hopefully.
Needs a good wash, its been stood for 2 years.
you can tell if the car has comfort access by the small ridges on the door handle. it means you can lock or unlock the car without having to use the fob. you just put your hand in the handle to unlock or press the ridges on the handle to lock it
yes and it's fucking awesome, very much worth searching for
idrive is garbage, don't bother with it.
however you really do need to use the vin tool to find out what has comfort access because those ridges are very hard to see from photos
>haggle a good price
since when has buying from a dealer been a path to a good price. buy it privately. my old man used to work at a bmw dealership and has never bought a car from one himself because he knows how much commission they make.
>compare price of car at dealership to comparable car being sold privately
>show dealership a few advertisements like this
>tell them you know what FMV is and you're not paying more than that
>get vehicle for fair price
Who gives a shit if they paid 50% of what they're selling it for? The final price is all you need to care about.
Your old man would have a fucking heart attack if he knew the mark-up on clothing and electronics.
Or does he just steal TVs and sew his own clothes?
they'll just tell you to fuck off or look up prices at other dealerships or whatever
but the REAL problem with buying from a dealership is no service records, that's a massive dealbreaker. buying a bmw with unknown service history is a very bad idea
>tfw bought my Mazda3 from a dealer
>tfw previous owner traded it in and bought an Evo X
>tfw he included every service record from the first appointment
>tfw one owner car
>tfw I printed off Autotrader ads and brought them to dealership
>tfw they reduced price by $1500 and added a 1 year warranty
>tfw car was fairly decent purchase until some bitch smashed it up 2 years later
Nigga u gettin played, u gotta know how to play the game. Fuh real.
nah he actually does alright for himself just won't pay full price for things like a pleb
it's a mazda3, service records aren't important
try that again with an e46 or something.
also that warranty is pretty much hot air and covers nothing, read the fine print
also i'm amazed the dealership didn't throw out the service records, they almost always throw them out if the previous owner gives it to them
>implying it's possible to buy a reliable, used BMW
>implying service records are ANYTHING but false hope
Service records are a great selling point you dingus, especially if the car has been well-maintained, which my Mazda3 was. Guy went in for every single little thing, always on time.
If you buy a shit car used, expect a shit car. If you buy a good car, it can still be fucked. A Corolla that's never had the oil changed and been driven hard will give you problems, no car is invincible.
Stop being such a nigger clown. You got cucked by a dealership, deal with it.
well thanks for outing yourself as knowing nothing about bmws?
you get the service records in order to know if it was well cared for, and what things will need replacing soon preventively, because bmw bits tend to fail at an expected year and mileage, not randomly.
i have no idea where you are that dealers keep service records but i have never ever encountered a dealer that keeps them. i've encountered plenty that threw out any records the PO gave them though
>people trade in their old car
>here I have service records!
>hand over 3 bills from oil changes performed over the last 7 years
>o-oh ok, thanks sir
>*into the trash they go*
Most people don't save concise service records, so if they can't prove the car has a relatively stable history of ownership, there's no point.
The absence of service records just shows how poorly the average person treats their vehicle. I keep a log book and save service records, be they repairs or regular maintenance.
You do sound a bit upset, as if your wife is sleeping with a black man and forcing you to watch.
>implying I can find one spec'd how I want it
>implying used ones are significantly cheaper
I'm 6'3" so the moonroof delete isn't required but would be very beneficial for me. Plus I'm pretty good at haggling, I'm not too worried. Since getting the car is a want vs a need if they don't want to work with me I'll walk out. Haggling at a dealership isn't rocket science if you know all the salesman's tricks. For example, he asked about my trade in and I told him let's figure out what I'm ordering first. I won't even tell him how I'm planning to pay until we've worked out the price.
all i know is if i can talk to the previous owner and get records or literally just ask them, it's far FAR better than going to a stealership, not to mention private sale is cheaper
i really don't get how you can't see the benefit of this
Totally. As previously mentioned I have an E36 M3 and while I love that car it's showing its age more and more. Haven't been a fan of the post 2000s BMWs, especially the M3s (V8 lolwat) until this 2 Series. I'd get an M2 but the price is just above what I want to pay plus the way BMWs trickle their M cars (remember the unavailability of the 1M?) to the dealers it's not realistic. BMW knew this new 2 Series was gonna resonate with older BMW fans.
>implying I can find one spec'd how I want it
it's called patience and looking around. any idiot can walk in and buy something from a yard at full price.
>implying used ones are significantly cheaper
the cars value is immediately depreciated as soon as it drives out of that showroom. if you're talking about used cars that are privately sold... they are cheaper..? you also have a lot more room to negotiate a price with a person privately knowing that they are getting every dollar for that car.
why would a private seller ever sell a car MORE than what a dealer would sell it for if they knew you could you get a better deal buying it from a dealer? No one would fucking buy privately if the dealers always had a better price.
How much would I expect paying for a manual trans for a M50B25?
Is digging through the junkyard a good idea?
>it's called patience and looking around. any idiot can walk in and buy something from a yard at full price.
Trust me, I've been looking. I live in Utah, so unless it's in the Wasatch Front (that's where most of our population lives, picture relevant) it's too far. The closest one I can find, and it's over in Boulder, CO. It's also the worst color combination ever (White exterior with the red leather seats and fake wood grain interior).
Gross. For the extra couple of grand I'd buy new with the options I want (especially the moonroof deletion, again, I'm tall). My MSRP as configured is $46,570, which should be easily negotiated to the sub-$43K range.
There's also this one but it's too far to reasonably be able to pop by and look at, though it's promising.
For the rest of your post, I never said they're more. In an ideal world a private seller would be perfect, but I live in a semi-isolated area. I could wait for one to pop up locally, but I don't see that happening any time soon. Since the majority of these are automatics (literally ALL of them on eBay are) it's almost statistically insignificant one will be selling anywhere around me in a manual even.
I'm optimistic the dealer will treat me right. If not, there's another dealer 30 minutes away who I'm sure will take my business.
Looks sharp. Not a fan of the color. Is it tan or grey for the interior?
So I'm the anon looking to buy an M235 and I stumbled upon this
Except for the fake wood grain and that it's not the smaller 2 Series it's pretty neat. Carmax though, seems sketchy. Buying a used BMW without knowing how is was treated seems sketchy too.
carmax is.....alright i guess
they overcharge by something like 20% or more, especially on anything german, and while to do inspect their stuff before selling it it isn't too thorough, they just like to stock lower mileage things.
mostly you buy a carmax car to then buy that bumper to bumper warranty they offer right afterwards
private sale gives you zero recourse
dealerships have something to lose if they try to fuck you over, and they're more likely to settle matters out of court
assuming you buy from a good dealership
don't buy from a used-car dealership, only buy from new car dealers (i.e. Toyota, Mitsubishi) that also have some pre-owned stuff
certified pre-owned is the best
unless you're a poor faggot, in which case you can keep buying private-sale shitboxes
the good bmws (e39/e46/e38) you have to find through private sale to get good examples, "new car" dealers don't even bother with cars that old anymore
anything CPO will be a bmw too new to be good, honestly, unless it's a 1 or 2 series but even then...
Yeah the KBB is 20-24K retail based on the features they list. NADA says 28K though. I hate the idea it's no haggle. $26K would be a decent start price, not the end all, take it or leave it price.
welcome to carmax, 'no haggle' means we charge what we want.
but people buy from them precisely because it's no haggle, they just want to buy a car even if it's overpriced if there's no extra dealer bullshit
If I buy a 2009 E90 328i with Xdrive and 82k miles and a manual transmission, what do I need to look out for? I notice this MY and model combination are free from service bulletins and recalls for anything major, but I can't find anything on CR about XDrive due to their retarded website redesign?
Any tips on E90 XDrive? If I want the car to last me until 180k miles, should I avoid XDrive altogether? Will XDrive be that much slower than RWD if I get it in stick?
Where my wagon bros at?
>new radiator, cooling system
>coolant temp sensors
Rear subframe mounts rip out of the body
Rear trailing arm bushing mounts rip out
Rear Shock mounts rip through the body
Front strut towers mushroom and crack open
Motor mount tabs on the subframe rip
>valve cover bolts stripped
>timing cover gasket bolts stripped
>rattling near the dip stick tube $400 part, valve coming apart sending lengthy metal rod through the intake destroying engine
>leak prone valve cover gasket, where the oil filter connects, the fucking coolant mating line behind the engine
>Piece of shit plastic part
>battery tray rust
>rear defroster stop work
>control arm/trailing arm bushings
>broken odometer gears
>rocker panel rust
>exhaust hangers rotting out
>exhaust clamps rusting off
>broken interior door handles
>failing or broken door locks
>power steering leak
>window switches dying
>a/c not working
>sheet metal on the car being too thin in stressed areas
>front shock towers have sheet metal half the thickness on most cars
>RTAB pockets and front strut tops mushrooming RTAB pockets rip out at 50k miles
>its a progressive failure
>Same with the front strut tops You start to notice the studs aren't all pointed directly up
>Rear subframe mount failure
>oil pump nut
>diff gear bolts
>The "subframe tearing"
>body of the car failing where the bolts that attach the suspension carrier
>part of the subframe fails the sway bar mounting tabs
>where the trailing arm attaches. There is no easy repair
>failure at the weld of the threaded rods that the RTAB carrier bolts to
>rear shock mount is a common failure item the best fix for this seems to be welding a duplicate of the shock tower over the damaged one
>A lot of things needed replacing which I didn't have the money for at the time.
>>14318971 here, I got some more exact info on the car I was talking about.
So it's a '96 528i automatic, with LPG system installed. The only notable things the current owner mentioned are:
- LPG filter needs to be replaced (LPG works but he is aware the filter needs to be changed)
- shakes abit on idle if running on LPG
- Rear bushings squeak on bumps
- Minor stone chips
- Supposedly previous 2 owners were pensioners and the engine is 'sluggish'.. does that even make sense?
Could any of the above suggest bigger problems that I have to pay special attention to? Does it seem like a good buy? And unless there are some bigger issues that weren't mentioned the price is right.
Sluggish engine.. doesn`t sound good
the LPG system maintenance is nothing much but if the engine is running ''sluggish'' you should really have it inspected by a mechanic or just run diagnostics at a shop, because a full M52B28 engine rebuild isn`t gonna be cheap. Automatic is still pretty boring imho but the 2.8 is quick enough, I think it does about 0-62 in about 7.5 secs.
Best looking maybe, but you can't deny that BMW made serious progress with handling and power from the e30 m3 to the e46 m3
I absolutely love this car. After some modification pushing about 400 to the crank with a "fairly" conservative map (want extra power but keep engine longevity)
It is a 2008 BMW 535xi sport wagon.
It is a dream to drive and ride.
how easy are these cars to steal?
i was talking to someone how had one and they said they go missing often
are they easier or harder to steal then e36 / e39 ?
i dont need specifics, just a rating
From what I have read X-drive is a rebrand of 000(x)i
That being said BMW's awd system is very good. However, if you do not live in a place where you need awd or your BMW is not your daily driver. I would stick with the RWD platforms.
Not any more difficult than the average car really. Factory alarm system, key transponder
From what I've heard, more often than not a thief will just get into the car, look in the owners manual booklet for the spare key and if it's not there they just move on to the next
god, if only those were optional RWD and there was a well documented manual swap procedure
i'm not a fan of the e60 but having an n54 wagon sounds real fuckin tempting....it's just the awd systems in those aren't worth the huge weight they have and the drivetrain losses
Looking to get a 1997-1998 E36 320i for my second car. I've had a mazda demio for a year now to learn the basics ect and now that i have my license i'm looking at getting a BMW as I always wanted. My dad knows his shit around cars so a lot of stuff can be done at home. Should I do it?
Too many E46 niggas, too round for my taste
I still drive it when it hits +10, when it hits -10 it never starts though there is power. I don't think I can drive in the snow now when I got this problem but snow skids are fun
Later on in the year I might be looking for a newer car. I was thinking of trying to get a straight six engine, and I know and been told a lot of the BMWs have them. So what BMW models would I be looking for if I wanted a straight six?
>tfw 3 bmws
>live in a place where it never snows
could be worse but mang my first car was an 04 wrx and i remember those snow feels
A 530i would be your best bet. There are those that say 540i or bust but having the same engine as the E46 means there's guaranteed to be a DIY guide for literally anything. Finding 540i specific DIY write ups is sometimes difficult. They're also hard to find in manual in the US.
Look for a post facelift (2001-2003). Options you want to look for (some of these became standard and not options in the later years but I don't remember which)
passenger mirror that drops down in reverse
rain sensing wipers
auto dim mirrors
dynamic stability control
Sport package would be a huge bonus but they're not super common. Sport package includes thigh supports and a stiffer suspension.
Complete service records are a must, make sure everything's been done on time and nothing's been neglected.
There are three problems that all E39s need fixed at some point in their life.
>cooling system is dildos and fails prematurely
Basically all of them will have this done, one important thing to make sure of though is that they didn't take it to a dealership to get this fixed. The BMW parts are what caused the problem in the first place and it'll happen again. Aftermarket water pump and radiator are a must.
>VANOS seals are dried out
Not a huge deal here so most people don't fix it. It just causes some torque loss at the low range. Parts are $60 and it's about a 2 hour DIY job, an experienced mechanic can probably do it in an hour.
>instrument cluster message center pixels are dying
50/50 on having this done, BMW did a goodwill replacement on this but not everybody took theirs in. Parts are about $30, 3 hour DIY job.
At the mileage most of them are at, parts that might start to fail include
>fuel pump (1 hour DIY)
>O ring on wiper fluid pump (30 minute DIY)
>door lock actuators (30 minute DIY)
>window regulators (30 minute DIY)
running out of characters so i'll end it there
God damn that wagon with the m5 front is fucking fantastic.
Ive never owned a bimmer but I've been considering it lately. Is 17k a good price for a e39 m5 thats loaded with under 30k miles? Its my uncles car and I've been talking about buying it from him. 1 owner, red on red/black leather and every factory option.
yeah he takes good care of his car. Hes offered it to me for 20k for a while now but I told him I would need a little more off the price to make it work for me. The car has around 28k miles. He never drives it. Ive heard about problems that can arise from leaving bimmers to sit for too long. Just a little wary buying a 15 year old bmw for 17k is all.
If he starts and drives the car like once per 4 months and if he still does maintenance like oil changes it should be good. some worn bushings or some cracked seals should be the worst case scenario. 17k is a good condition e36 m3 price so the price is decent.
The x after the model numbers.
528xi 535xi 328xi all the pre 2008 models had the X to indicate awd systems they rebranded the system to X-drive badge instead. But it is the exact same thing.
First, as you probably already know you cannot get the BMW awd system in a manual. This is why:
"Instead of a permanent torque split (which is featured in earlier systems), xDrive provides variable torque split between the front and rear axles through the use of a multi-plate wet clutch located in the gearbox on the output to the front drive shaft. This setup allows xDrive to modulate the torque split between the front and the rear axles, which is normally split at 40:60 ratio. If wheel slip is detected by the ABS/DSC system, xDrive can react within a tenth of a second to redistribute up to 100% of the engine power to the front or rear axle. The wet clutch is applied through a high speed electric servo motor turning a cam-shaped actuator disc."
I love banging out the gears as much as anyone. Unfortunately, modern transmission systems are more efficient than manuals in 99% of driving conditions.
Secondly, yes you gain 440lbs with the awd drive system and more powertrain loss. Even BMW cannot escape 22-25% powerloss from AWD systems.
For me it was just a matter of making up for it. My goal was 300hp to the wheels. This would mean I need about 425bhp to the crack.
Which I did, but i run a more conservative map day to day making about 400 the crack. Even with the added weight and power loss 0-60 is under 5 seconds which is good enough for me.
I'm thinking about picking up a 1988 325ic I went to look at today. Comes with a hard top and soft top, new timing belt/water pump, 2 year old clutch replacement.
152k miles on the odometer. Drove it for a while and it starts/revs/shifts really smooth, most of the issues with the car seemed to be cosmetic (beat up seats, cracked dash). Only other issues are no cold AC (it's been sitting for a while, so I'm hoping its just a recharge. its already had r134 conversion). Also the windshield wipers are haunted and will move around even when turned off, which I'm guessing is the relay.
The owner runs a bmw repair shop like a block from my house, apparently it used to be his son's car before he got a truck. He wants 2500 total for it. I'm thinking about doing it, thoughts?
>never owned a bimmer
>want an e39 m5
please don't, that's definitely not a first bmw
that said, that deal is really tempting
i mean, you COULD do it, but you need to do a lot of homework and really commit to DIY everything
>First, as you probably already know you cannot get the BMW awd system in a manual. This is why:
there's a bunch of manual e90 awd models. the e60 awd might be more bothersome though.
440lbs....i didn't realize it was that heavy, god damn
wait no i'm dumb, there are e60's awd models with manual...just not in a wagon form
here's a 535xi sedan in manual
rwd bmws in america are generally hard to find in any state north of like, kentucky
manual ones are even harder
combine those and well, just search within a 200 mile radius and be ready to take a road trip or plane flight
Work for BMW dealership in Washington. Mark up is not as much as you think it is. Average is around $4,000. So you probably won't wiggle them down more then the actual gross of the car. Especially on an order. The only reason why they would is if they are with in a few car sales of making a dealership sales goal for the month. Or to take a potential sale away from a close rival dealership. I know people tell stories all the time of "I got $7,000 off a BMW! $500 below there cost!". That's not common at all. I know $4,000 gross seems little and hard to believe. But even an I8 is around $10,000 grand profit. You could order a fully loaded 3 series stickerd at $70,000 and maybe get 3 or 4 grand off. But not on a car as cheap as what your looking for.