M I A T A
no roadster threads in the catalog, so I'll start one
post your gay cars ITT
Just brought mine home the other day, completely stock except the radio
She's a qt3.14, anon.
Here's another snowy, happy Miata for your troubles.
I got her for $3300 and I can't stop thinking about her
I'm too scared to put her on the road, too much salt around here
Gimme your modlist anons, doesn't matter how small they may be.
>Center console delete with new carpet over it
>Shifter rebuild kit with new gaskets and new turret oil from Royal Purple
>Stereo delete with tin over the radio "hole"
>speaker delete from seats and doors
>Spare tire delete
>A/C delete but kept P/S
>switched to full synthetic oil
>smoked turn signals
>flipped the interior maplights upside down, BIG IMPROVEMENT
>delrin door bushings, big improvement
Think that's it so far, also cleared my rain rail and the rocker panels cause they were flooded with water.
Also, new fluids like the clutch fluid and brake fluid. Semi metallic brake pads as well.
Damn, giving out this modlist makes me feel like I've sunken some money into mine. Don't even care mang.
Next is rollbar, lowering kit, new wheels, Maaco paintjob, and I'll be 100% happy.
>Robbins soft top
>MR2 Wheels for winter tread (94M hollow summer)
>Pioneer Elite head unit
Lol- so basically stock. Going to order suspension this spring, probably Flyin Miata 1.5 kit, undecided tho.
I'm actually thinking of doing a rally build and RallyXing it...
>Rokkor coilovers(replacing in the spring with something better)
>OEM hard top with rear defrost
>OEM mud guards
>Shorty antenna from Go Miata
>Studio 1/8" steel skidplate
>Racing Beat intake
>R package rep front lip
>Dapper projector headlights with 6000k HIDs
>Alpine head unit, 6" kicker door speakers, 10" kicker sub
>motion sensing alarm with tilt sensor
>gone through about 5 sets of wheels, but it's currently on the stock daisies until I find a new set
Stuff that I haven't put on, or I'm waiting on delivery:
>Hard Dog double diagonal roll bar
>R Package rear lip
>Garage vary rep front lip without holes
>Carbon Miata hard top spoiler
>Garage Vary tail lights
Lost mine two weeks ago, broke my leg as a result, miata did pretty gud
>FM 2.5 Kit (FM springs, Tokico adjustable shocks, rear extended top hats, FM sway bars front and rear, sway bar bushings, poly bumpstops)
>clutch interlock disabled
>brushed aluminum shift knob
>torsen LSD (will be going in the car this weekend hopefully)
>garagestar delrin door bushings
>garagestar hardtop mounting plates
>garagestar license plate mount
>pioneer head unit & Kicker door speakers
>front tow hook
>VHT wrinkle black valve cover
>NGK plug wires
>Front passenger side turn signal burns out on the job
>Replace bulb as soon as I get home, problem solved, right? Nope
>Next day, go to work, use signal - indicator still tells me it's burned out
>Check my lights via reflection of the car in front of me
>Light is clearly on
>Signal for right turn
>Light doesn't blink what the fuck
>Apparently somewhat common issue having to do with a bad solder in the turn signal/hazard flasher relay located in the dashboard right behind the hood latch release
>Never soldered before and don't know shit about electronics, fug it
>Buy soldering iron and give it a go
>Can't spot any bad solder joints
>Take a guess and go for what I think is the worst looking one
>Now driver side indicates shit's fucked up, but it is still working so whatever
>Shitty annual safety inspection due by the end of the month
Welp. Swapped relays with a friend to see if that was indeed the problem and my soldering skills a shit. It did fix the lights, so at least I know what needs replaced. Now I'm debating if I should buy Koni STR.Ts or Koni Sport shocks. Haven't heard much about the STR.Ts... wise old guy in the club recommends that if I'm on a budget, to get the Sensen shocks for $100 from Rock Auto. Might go that route. I'd like to get the Koni Sports and FM lowering springs but muh budget right now. Also already shelling out $430 on a timing belt/water pump kit and a used Cobalt oil cooler. And I might be picking up a basically new SuperMiata Wilwood Big Brake kit from a friend who's parting his car out... probably not, but gotta save up for that just in case I can call dibs on it huehuehuehue.
>Tfw not sure if I should be putting the money in the timing belt/water pump kit towards a K series swap instead
Only 80k miles tho... so I guess not.
>Racing Beat header and Power Pulse Sport exhaust
>Racing Beat tubular front sway bar
>Hard Dog Hardcore roll bar
>Static Nine Garage TSIs
Enkei's look so proper, hnnnnnnnng. Pic related, a friend's miat looking so P R O P E R . AND THAT FUCKING LIP... MUH DICK RRRGHHH
Personally, if I had the monies, I'd get Watanabes.
I was thinking about getting another set of RPF1s, but in 15x8 this time. Not sure though. I'm trying to find some old school JDM wheels for it right now, but I can't find anything in good shape at a good price.
Jelly of those Jet Stream headlights though.
>Koni STR.Ts or Koni Sport
Don't get STR.Ts, they are basically a stock replacement shock, but cost way too much for that.
Sensen are also stock replacement, but a lot cheaper. They will probably last less then 30k miles though.
KYBs are also a stock replacement, will last twice as long and cost twice as much.
I like to tell people it's a Ford Mustang when they ask me what it is.
I'm contemplating on rather to upgrade my little miata to make it better or just trade my miata +8 grand for an FD. Am I thinking it smart for wanting to start adding shit to a better platform?
>someone on /o/ actually owns a new miata
Do those door bushings actually do anything? They're cheap, but I'm kinda skeptical. I could see them reducing rattles, but the rest of the car makes so much noise it wouldn't even matter
>lights in rear markers, wired to blink with signals
>FM sways, frame rails/center brace, FST brace, full exhaust with RB header
>poly diff bushings
>Revlimiter gauge faces
>MiataRoadster short shifter/leather boot/Nardi knob to match the wheel
>stainless brake lines
Putting in a new radiator in a few weeks when I change the timing belt and water pump. Hopefully some bronze 6ULs and better tires once it warms up, too.
Some guy said "hey nice miata" while I was getting lunch today. First time since getting the car last week.
Am I the only faggot rocking Mariner Blue?
you friends with that dude that has a white aw11 with a red sun on the side?
Fact: anyone who denies their attraction to Miatas, Hayabusas, and other "feminine" vehicles is covering their cock lust with homophobia. They should just suck some dick at a glory hole and learn to love their life.
>tfw no Miata or other cheap sports car yet, but may buy one in 2016
>Always wanted a Miata
semi related, been fucking around in Forza 3 with my roommate, pouring all our in game money into this. As of right now it's in R3 and we got it up to 230 on the Mulsanne Straight.
So I think yall finally convinced me to get one of these things. Is there really a difference between the NA and NB besides the headlights? I'd prefer to get a NA, but I've heard that some years of the NA are shit. Which years of the NA are safe to get?
>yall finally convinced me to get one of these things
Don't. You will comw whining about how you don't like the interior noise and the weak engine and about how we made you get a faggy car two weeks later.
The 90s and 91s have short nose cranks, which will break. Earlier NAs have the weaker 1.6 engine, so avoid that, if for no other reason than relative lack of aftermarket. Other NA Miatas are fine.
NBs are generally regarded as better, but maybe drive them both and see which you prefer.
Go here and read about the differences
No but that sounds awesome. I came across this Mr.2 the other day. I thought it was neat.
>The 90s and 91s have short nose cranks, which will break.
Half true. There is a certian VIN after which all Miata's made have the proper Long nose crank. This can be determined by looking at the crankshaft pully, pic related is Long nose, short has less cut outs, or the VIN #.
>If you have a 1991 with VIN 209447 or more, you're safe.
>Earlier NAs have the weaker 1.6 engine, so avoid that, if for no other reason than relative lack of aftermarket. Other NA Miatas are fine.
Also half true. While the 1.6 has a less powerful (barely) engine, the aftermarket is by no means lacking, Flyin Miata, Goodwin Racing, and 949Racing all have lots of performance parts for it.
I vote Advanti Racing Storms, they just look so damn good
Some of us actually can't upgrade our engines, some of us autoX and the stock classes (the funnest) won't allow engine modifications, otherwise the owners would rather do suspension mods since thats what these cars were made for anyways.
Why would you delete the clutch lock?
Definitely, the doors are one of the most important parts on these cars. There was a video of a dude doing donuts in a Miata with no doors and at the end of the video the windshield was cracked from all the bending. The rubber door bushings that came stock are garbage.
RIP... yeah, I'm aware of the Sensens being stock replacement. Not expecting any performance from it. Just need to replace my blown stock ones ASAP before these rough as shit roads break more shit.
>Short shift kit
>swaybars front and back
>koni yellows with lowering springs
>hard dog rollbar ( the big one)
>garagestar frame rails
> New speakers
> New shift knob and handbrake
> Konig wheels
It's a 96 m edition so it came with some goodies from the factory that I don't want to list out
>why would you delete the clutch lock
apparently it's better for your thrust bearing. when you start your car with the clutch in, it puts load on the thrust bearing with no oil pressure. also I like being able to start the car without being in the driver's seat (just reach through the window)
yeah I'd say door bushings make a noticeable difference in rigidity
>tfw love my miata to death but finally have enough for a high displacement American shitbox
I also know this feel, so fucking torn
>license plate bolted to bumper
damage is already done but I'd still invest in a license plate mount if I were you
I'm 6'1 and yes I pass, not by a lot though. Most of my height is in my legs. If you're taller than 6'1 I wouldnt count on passing. Hard dog makes a bar with larger piping that's 1.75" instead of 1.5", it's the fatboy and if you're really concerned about it, I'd recommending getting the thicker one