Can someone explain the point of installing aftermarket exhausts? Wouldn't the one from the factory be good enough?
They are good for separating "enthusiasts" from their money. You can go to any exhaust shop and have a full mandrel bent exhaust of any config with any mufflers made in an hour for 200 bucks. Lot's of stock exhausts have shitty crush bends in them and poor configurations.
This is not always true.
On my car the stock downpipe is heavily restricted, the cat back is less but still very restrictive.
Dyno charts have proven that with a downpipe alone you gain around 20whp.
My cars setup is cold air intake, downpipe, exhaust, and a tune. I'm not putting down +40whp and my car sounds dope.
in regular cars modest hp improvement over stock generally altered to provide a different exhaust note
I.e ricefag in civic with loud exhaust so people notice him
consider though that even M series exhausts and AMG, Mclaren, etc undergo exhuast changes at tuning shops
>Some faggot outside has a modified exahust and can't parallel park
>Wouldn't the one from the factory be good enough?
Short answer: Yes. Especially on modern cars.
Long answer: Manufacturers have want to have their cars to have some modicum of efficiency. Not just to pass emissions regulations in order to sell their car to the public, but even mpg can be affected by the exhaust. As such, factory exhaust setups can be detrimental to top-end power. If you are looking at making some kind of power monster sucking down 600+ CFM, that air needs to be vacated somehow. Even if you are just a bolt-on mods guy, some exhausts do make the car sound a little nicer.
You fell right into my trap, that's the factory exhaust from a 599 GTB
Don't be a fool. The cheapest I can order a 3" offset outlet can is the Magnaflow 12578 at cost price from a distributor is $44.70.
So a pair of those, and three 3" mandrel doughnuts, and five metres of 3" aluminiumised pipe and you are over $200 in parts, no labour, no flanges.
Fastest welder I have met can finish ten metres of tube welded in metre increments in twenty five minutes from prep to cold gal. Somehow I don't think Joe can weld half as fast as this lad, so that means Joe will probably have the collector flange on both sides and maybe the first few feet in an hour.
In fact, I don't think I've had anything come out of a pipe chop shop in an hour, neither a muffler job or a full 3" mandrel pipe from the dump back.
So Joe is going to sell you parts at negative cost, not charge you for flanges and hangers, weld at light speed and work for in excess of minus thirty dollars an hour so he can charge you $200 and take one hour to build a pipe.
Fuck you are a special one. I know when you are inexperienced you tend to make numbers up on the spot but you missed the mark with that one.
Aw fuck mate you're right. Totally not at all pathetic to identify exhaust by the hanger. My bad man, you're not a basement dwelling bench racer that memorized trivial bullshit in a futile attempt to try and feel superior for once in your life.
It depends what you're doing to the engine, primary if a turbo is put on an originally N/A car often a larger diameter exhaust is used for increased airflow (and also considering the headers of a turbo are completely different). But mostly its just put on a car with stock internals for the BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAPPAPAPAPAPAPAP sound.
wow anon, way to project. I just spend time under cars, you know for a living.I'm sure you have more than a cursory knowledge in some fields, dragon dildos, anime body pillows etc. I wouldn't sperg on you for knowing the difference between one or the other.
Yeah that guy is just saying things. I called the local exhaust shop the other day for an estimate on a dual exhaust system for my fox mustang. He said that $800 would be about the ballpark.
I have an ebay catback on my r32, XS power i think, but they're all from the same factory so brand name doesn't meany anything. 350 bucks shipped, mandrel bent stainless 3.5" and has lasted for 5 years so far.
A local exhaust shop quoted me 450 bucks for basically the same thing. Can't beat Chinese labor costs
a bit more power and easy to bolt on in a few minutes.
the idea that factories spend much time developing exhausts and intakes for best performance is not at true.
being cheap enough, quiet enough and durable enough is all the boxes ticked
Depending on what you want in a car, a "perfect" car may not even exist. I want a fast turbo wagon with a manual, right now one of my only options in the US is the 05-09 Legacy GT/Outback XT. Those get exhaust systems put on them all the time, with a tune just a downpipe and uppipe will easily get you 40-50whp. They really are way too quiet stock.
At the top of this pic. You can see the stock 7.3 diesel downpipe compared to the aftemarket one. Which one flows better?
>WOULDNT THE ONE FROM THE FACTORY BE GOOD ENOUGH.
Forget about myths of backpressure, it's boomer bullshit.
However, enlarging your exhaust to hope with high HP mods will deliver gains. For example forced induction or a really high compression, big cammed N/A.
X and H pipes on a dual exhaust system also help. The old BMWs from the 80s and 90s all had a H piece from factory.
There is no benefit from stainless other than not rusting, which is a legitimate concern if you have salt on the road in winter.
You should be looking at header shape and length moreso than material.
>BMW E30 rear muffler literally falls off due to rust
>go steal a rear resonator from a 30 year old XF Falcon
>weld it together
>put some high temp black paint on it to make it look a new aftermarket piece
>shel'll be right m8
Interesting that the resonator from a shitbox Falcon lasted longer than a genuine BMW piece.
I'm in Aus so I don't think salt is a major concern
If that's the case I'll probably go pacemaker as they are tuned to length and are a well known brand, at least for Commodores they are.
What about outlet size? I was advised a 2" outlet would be good enough until I'm pushing more than 200rwkw. I have a v6 vy commodore if that makes a difference
>What about outlet size? I was advised a 2" outlet would be good enough until I'm pushing more than 200rwkw. I have a v6 vy commodore if that makes a difference
Don't waste your money trying to polish a turd, anon. A V6 Commodore of ANY year is not worth the time modifying. Stick with the stock system.
The newest VF V6 manual puts down 138RWKW.
Save your money and buy a V8 if you want to persist with large sedans.
I love my large sedans that smash na japs. On my P plates obviously so I just want to do a few mods like a hi flow exhaust.
VF sounds weak, I'm pretty sure my vy puts out 110rwkw.
also I'll be passing it on to my brother after I'm done so not a complete waste
Do you reckon 2" is too small or are pacemakers right because that's what they recommended me
Fuck m8, it's not even the Alloytec. It's the shitbox 3.8.
There is no point in doing the exhaust if you have done no other mods. Headers and the exhaust system is a supporting mod to accommodate a larger cam or forced induction.
You'll put it on and you'll get fuck all out of it while you're out of money that could have went towards a new cam and a remap of the ECU.
Find the factory supercharger that came on VY Comodores on with an underdrive pulley if you actually want to go fast after you're off your P plates. THEN you do the exhaust.
I was planning to get a cam, high flow exhaust and then a tune.
But like you said it might not be worth it, that's why I thought high ratio roller rockers might be best bang for buck as they're only like $500 for a 25kw increase.
I do want my vy to be faster, what would you recommend while I am on my p plates on a budget of 3 or 4k$
Hey cock nuts, the VY Commodore came factory with a supercharger, and it produced pathetic figures.
I'd wager it's the same exhaust/manifolds for the N/A and the Supercharged cars.
Bolting a larger exhaust to a standard car yields fuck all horsepower, and if it doesn't, it's because the factory system is shot to shit like a blocked cat.
They're relatively reliable, but that it's. They're gutless, rough, sound like shit and the only reason to use one is because you can build a nice turbo kit, run it until the 3800 pops and then swap a new one into the turbo kit for $100.
Only delusional fools waste money on V6 commodores because you can buy a base model manual magna and swap a 380 engine into it and proceed to destroy most older V8s, let alone 3800s.
>Only delusional fools waste money on V6 commodores because you can buy a base model manual magna and swap a 380 engine into it and proceed to destroy most older V8s, let alone 3800s.
They are absolutely pathetic. There are a range of cars from the 80s and 90s that will absolutely be a better base for mods than a shitty old Commodore, yet P platers are drawn to them like flies.
The equivalent Ford Six is a better base, the XR6 throughout the 90s was faster than the XR8.
Jap/German stuff is lighter and has about the same HP.
you see this stock merged header log thing with cat?
is 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick cast iron with rough spots and pouring defects everywhere.
Some engineer somewhere thought this would be a good idea.
I've been told despite the extra 40kw that it's only a little faster. And people say they are "gutless" until you get them up to speed. I thought the Ecotec would be better as it's more reliable and would be easy to learn to wrench on. Plus good luck finding an unmolested sv6, chances are slim.
How many of those cars are rwd though?
Even so I wanted a car that was easy to wrench on so I could learn. Parts are plentiful and cheap.
I don't think it's a bad first car, but I just want it to be faster. Regardless of what car I got I would still want to do performance mods to it.
Small Custom shop in WA 2.5 pipe, high flow cat, MagnaFlow muffler. $400
Pic of his work
Not by a long shot. Factory exhausts are tuned to be as quiet as possible, as cheap as possible, and to meet emissions. A performance exhaust is designed to flow as well as possible for maximum power, and a performance muffler will be usually a bit louder to better let the driver know what the cars doing.
There is like 1 guy with a mandrel bending machine in this entire state.
Most exhaust shops crush bend. Most people don't know the difference so they go pay their 200$ and get their shitty crush bent crap exhaust which probably is still better than the "federal government is putting it's dick so far up our ass we barely got away with putting this giant turd exhaust on here with 5 billion baffles" stock exhaust.
LOL BULLSHIT. You might get some scrap metal welded up for $200. You are not getting mandrel bent quality metal for $200. It would be probably $400 JUST for the bends and metal. And then you get some shit mufflers so your car sounds like dicks.
SOME are well designed to correct bad flow from factory.
MOST don't have to worry about emissions so they make more power.
Some sound better than factory, most sound like garbage.
Some look better, most look like garbage.
ewww. Sounds like someone who didn't have money put a shit exhaust on a glorious GTO. This is a mid/low tier exhaust and it sounds much better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLDBfnr6qtw
And this is what a GOOD GTO sounds like. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHUtCkfB0EA
>just buy a better car from the start instead of dumping money into an old one?