When did you realize that EFI was crippling your engine and switch to a carburetor?
Glorious Weber carburetor, upped my horsepower from 58 to probably 60.
When did you realise that throttle bodies are a Jewish conspiracy and switched to glorious Diesel engines?
I owned one and hated it... It stalled when I didn't let it warm up in the cold. I flooded it a couple of times when starting, and had to wait a minute or two. In other words, don't get a carb if you are every in a rush and want to be able to drive off immediately!
There's literally no reason for it to be outlawed except in the minds of the cuckold liberals trying to ruin cars.
Also if you don't know a mechanic who would wave your car through inspection you deserve to get fined.
>There's literally no reason for it to be outlawed
Yes, there is. You can't alter emissions control equipment.
>Also if you don't know a mechanic who would wave your car through inspection you deserve to get fined.
I don't need to know one, because my state doesn't have inspection and, if it did, I would easily pass since I keep my car compliant.
Do you think you need that much? It seems like a 750 might be better for a 408.
Although I'm counting down the days until I go EFI.
Hopefully trading it out soon though.
Hoping to break even on an LS2/T56 swap. Going pro-touring.
>trading a godmachine 427 big block for a bitchass 6.0l puss fest
You'll end up spending around $6,000 on drivetrain and have a vehicle worth exactly the same in the end.
If it's an automatic, a manual swap will improve the value and make it a nicer drive. A M21 would be a good investment.
>Make more power for less weight and better fuel economy
>add clutch pedal
>make car that can turn
I see no downside.
>I see no downside
>no big block feels
>arguably less torque
>it's not as cool
>not as special snowflake
but we all know an LS is better numbers wise, but there's something bad fucking ass about an old school muscle car with a big block.
like the other anon said, it couldn't hurt to install an M21 manual and some aluminum heads would free up some ponies and reduce weight.
Honestly the biggest thing is the weight. I'm never going to make a fatass big block car turn as well as an alum block.
I'll spend this summer doing burnouts on as many country roads as possible and enjoying the engine, but it just doesn't fit in with my long term goals for the car. I'm hoping some day to have it caged and on a track.
So in the process of getting amped for rebuilding one of the spare 4 barrels that came with my foxbody I've been watching this video
I like the filmstrip one that's straight outta the 40s but something about this guy's accent and the length of the video just makes me feel like I'm getting the most out of my time.
I have a 79 240d which I love to drive, except for right now. Diesels are a total piece of shit for my Canadian winter. Thankfully I have a 1960 220S for the winter and recently picked up a 77 280e.
I'm actually looking at the QA1 stuff right now.
I don't think any Camaro ever came with a 427. Vin says it was a 350cu car originally, so it's not like I'm ruining a numbers matching car. Plus it has aftermarket t-tops, which also ruins collector value.
It's what's on the current motor and what was on it when it was bought. I'm not sure what ls going on the new one. Me and my old man are visiting the machinist that's working on the motor and we'll see what he has to say
they are cheaper, that's for sure.
>implying you couldn't pick one up for 500$
Well I've got a friend at Spalding's who thinks he can get me the LS2/T56 for around $4k. If that's true I'll shit bricks.
I'm hoping to get $6k out of my current setup, so that would pay for the whole swap.
Yeah, the L33's for the Trailblazer SS. It's an option, but the price on those are creeping up and they're a bitch to find. I'd probably build one of those for a high redline, similar to the old screamer 302's they put in Camaros for Trans-Am
But you need an LS3 block for that, otherwise the bore size ruins it.
I might look into seeing what kind of cranks are available for the LS2 to get it to a shorter stroke.
> mfw going EFI on a multi Carb setup
Well I would post a face except I don't have one that mixes excitement and disappointment.
Doing more reading on the subject, it looks like an LS2 can do a 7k redline with the right cam/spring combo. I don't think I'd want a street engine to rev any higher than that anyway.
Should be fine
I have this on my 289 and it runs great.
Carbs can make just as much, if not more power than EFI can, the problem is in terms of emissions and fuel economy, there's just no question: EFI all the way.
Usually carb guys are people who don't understand a goddamn thing about carbs other than, "Well, you bolt the motherfucker on and it goes!" and disregard the fact that carbs are actually 10 times more complex than EFI. Not that it matters, as the fuckers never bother to set it up right. Like my neighbor, dude has a 850 cfm on a chevy 350 that doesn't spin about 4 grand, choke is disabled because it's too complex for him to figure out. Also he didn't bother to block off any of unused vacuum ports, so it runs like shit and he can't figure out why, he seems to think his pistons must have been defective.
Hey guys I just bought a carb'd Accord in the fall and I was wondering if you guys had any tips about starting it in the cold. It was 20 degrees this morning in PA and its gonna get colder soon.
only the c.o.p.o. cars, you could get an all aluminum race 427 if your dealer knew the right boxes to check.
press the pedal slowly to the floor once before starting to engage the choke and fast idle.