Hi /o/, I am coming from /k/, I am kind of a newfag when it comes to vehicles, anyway
>find a 2007 Interceptor for 2000$
Now my question is
>are there any special rules and regulations for a retired police car?
It's going to be kind of hit or miss, a 2007 for 2 grand means it might not be in fantastic condition, but crown vics are pretty simple. Also everybody on the road is going to hate you unless you paint it neon green or some shit and take the pushbar and spotlight off.
No its just like any other car. If your state does inspections the horn and other things might not work and that'll be a problem (matter of cut wires or pulled out by police department) if your state has E85 and you want to run e85, look for a 2008 or newer. I have a 2007 also.
>are there any special rules and regulations for a retired police car?
yes you have to register it as a deadly weapon and submit to a background check. prepare to be on every illuminati database, and pack your bags for the FEMA camp.
Or you can disregard everyone's thoughts and opinions and keep your accessories for the extra utility.
Is it police surplus? If so, make sure to check the number of idle hours on the engine (Idling is worse on the engine than just driving) and realize that the car has a history of criminals pissing, puking, bleeding, and shitting in the back seat.
Oh, also they get awful MPG in the city. Like 14-ish, even lower if you run E85 (Think you need an '08 or newer for that, though). Otherwise they're solid, indestructible cars.
Those with distinctive paint patterns or in colors used only by law enforcement agencies, such as black and whites, are supposed to be repainted. A lot of the time that gets ignored by everybody though. Whether it would be a problem for you is going to depend on the situation. Try to act like a cop and that will get you fucked for sure. Just be driving a beat up shitbox and 99 percent of cops won't give a damn even if it is still technically illegally painted/colored
They are cheap and great cars. A retired patrol car is a bit of a wild card though. Usually the worst case scenario is the transmission might go bad. I have high idle hours and still runs great but I think it uses more fuel than its supposed to.
Cycle through the odometer button and you'll see that. I say 2,000 and under is best. Might be able to use it for negotiations on lowering the price.
It's engine use not logged on the normal odometer. Ford says one hour of idle is like 33 miles of wear and tear. A lot say that's exaggerated. Back in the day, idling would cause oil to sludge up or the engine to have heat issues because sitting there with no air flow makes it hot. However police cars have oil and transmission coolers and modern oil doesn't sludge as easy.
You just push a button on the CVPI odometer and it should tell you. There's some formula (Google it) that gives you a rough approximation of what each idle hour translates to in miles in relation to wear on the engine.
An engine sitting at lower RPM idling will never run as smoothly as an engine at driving speed. The cylinders are moving slower and the oil doesn't lubricate as well. Slide your finger quickly across your desk quickly, now slowly drag it. Which one feels smoother? Now imagine this happening hundreds of times per minute over the span of thousands of hours. You get the idea.
>realize that the car has a history of criminals pissing, puking, bleeding, and shitting in the back seat.
First thing I did w/ my auction buy was douse the whole interior with Lysol and freebreze then lit up a whole pack of sandalwood incents. Now every time I get out of my car I smell like a stripclub.
But for real: p71 can be cool but just go with a nonfleet panther that some old person drove around and wasn't curbed every other month. They cost about the same and can bolt on almost all the "cop performance parts" like dual exhausts, air intake and the X5 diff.
Fug I almost have exactly half that many idle hours on mine.
>modern oil doesn't sludge as easy.
Pmuch, every 4.6 made after 03 left the factory with full synth. Ans fleet cars usually got proper oil changes every other month.
One concern for high idle hours is the valve seals leaking oil. So high mileage/hours 4.6 and 5.4 modulars have to have their oil level checked every week or 500 or so highway miles.
They have sway bars already. They are setup pretty decent as is. shocks might be better to replace if they are the original. Thicker sway bars are available.
Detective or highway car? Mines a run of the mill patrol car.
If you install a light-bar it can only be amber, same with all other lights that can be added, CB antennas are ok, any police insignia's need to be removed, any ballistic panels need to be removed after service (that probably was done for you), also you cant be in anything that would resemble a police uniform. Any of these things will get you pulled over in a heartbeat and perhaps have an impersonating an officer charge.
/O/ther than that its gucci
Oh and also, you might want to drive with the spotlight folded down, since spotlighting other drives is illegal the police would ask
>Why do you have yer spotlight up, son?
It's because when the engine is not under load or working at speed, the lower cylinder pressures aren't pushing the rings out like they would during normal driving. This polishes the bore and will eventually lead to oil consumption and lost compression. There are also issues with carbon buildup
Ballistic panels are not illegal. You can literally buy an armored truck to daily drive. Jesus where do you people come up with this stuff? Lights can't be red or blue, it follows anything any other car has to follow.
Only if friction is applicable, which oil is designed to mitigate. As the engine is running faster, more oil is being pushed through the necessary channels, thus fighting frictional wear better.
>says we're retarded
>not aware police surplus body armor is sold on a regular fucking basis
Armor has an expiration date for liability purposes and to get the government to keep buying new armor. What do you think they do with the old?
I am going to a local auction next weekend where a 2011 crown vic police interceptor will be auctioned off.. been needing a new car and am entertaining the idea of bidding if it doesn't go super high. Not really impressed with the thought of an automatic when my real goal was to get a newer Mustang GT with a manual, but there's a real threat that I could be laid off from my job this year if coal and oil don't start making a comeback.
That's one of the many autists tripfags of /o/, he overestimated his CVPI and wrapped it around a tree like a dumbass and now CV's are just another meme car like the miata.
I love my CV as much as the next guy but fuck even I know the limits of a nearly 2 ton landbarge.
Kevlar loses it's elasticity and tensile strength after a few years which allows bowlets to snap the stretched fibers with less energy. This is why old bullet proof vests have that pungent burnt plastic bag smell, it's off gassing from the polymer strands.
No they aren't, you colossal mongoloid. I have a set installed in mine and they're very much not illegal.
By "wrapped around a tree," you mean "hit a red light runner." Also, race me faget.
>the horn and other things might not work
Is this common on CVPIs? I've got an 07 as well and the horn doesn't work in mine.
Nigga you got 3 spotlights on that thing?
>8647 Idle hours
SHIT! My CVPI has 1200 hours @ 135k miles. Is that high average or low for the mileage?
>Pmuch, every 4.6 made after 03 left the factory with full synth.
I don't think so. All 4.6s I know of run motorcraft SynBlend as factory spec.
>Not really impressed with the thought of an automatic
I'll warn you the Automatic in these cars is terrible. It's pretty fucking durable but the CVPIs have more aggressive shifts and with the OD on it can never find which gear it wants to be in.
Still shredding tires and going sideways at every opportunity. I just got back from a Houston WAT meet, too.
Hopefully I'll be back to NorCal this spring.
My 07's horn didn't work when I first got it. It was disconnected as it originally was rerouted through the siren.
The trick to the 4R transmission is to use OD Off to force it down into 3rd when you need it. It's fairly responsive if you work around the pants-on-head retarded shift logic.
>My 07's horn didn't work when I first got it. It was disconnected as it originally was rerouted through the siren.
Where was the connection located? I'd really like to try to fix mine if possible. I live in an inspection state and even though the guy passed me, I really don't like not having a horn on the road (Really more so in parking lots.... Almost got hit twice already by people backing out without looking)
>The trick to the 4R transmission is to use OD Off to force it down into 3rd when you need it. It's fairly responsive if you work around the pants-on-head retarded shift logic.
Yeah, I've been toying with the OD button lately trying to avoid the sloppy shifts.
My uncle has been buying and selling police auction cars recently. He knows almost nothing about cars himself, but he is friends with some local dealers and they tell him which ones are supposedly good. He is also allowed to check the cars out before the auction unlike the public. He got an 06 for $600 , painted it for $500, and the car is very slick. Everything works well, suspension brakes, trans, good power etc.
I want one myself as a beater, a extra car to drive if I need it. My only concern is the trans. How can I be sure I get one that wont slip?
You can't really know the transmission health until driving it or taking it apart. It's probably the biggest risk of buying a surplus car.
If it is healthy you can JMOD it. The inventor of the transmission recommends it. It increases transmission fluid flow increasing health and harder shifts. I myself got a tuner and an email tune that adjusted the shift points so it's not always looking for a gear with OD on.