/o/ please help me. I need a car, these are my conditions. The sticky cars would all fall under #11, and I want a discussion.
3. 4-Doors preferably.
4. 0-60 in 6 seconds or less.
5. Manual transmission.
6. Decent insurance.
7. Can add a few bolt ons in the future.
9. The big problem... under $5k.
10. Decent looks, but not really important.
11. Not twice the value of the car to maintain.
Thank you <3
R/t is rated 25 highway 20 city. You can also beat that number. Good luck finding what you want for 5k though, it'll have tons of small problems, a couple major ones, and have a shitload of miles.
At 5k, probably going to be a beat down high miles turd. Plus it doesn't fit alot on the list. Awd, force induction, gas milage kinda sucks. Probably get more than 20 but you ever drive it fun and it sucks fuel
You're going to have to reduce the criteria if you want anything that's not a complete shitheap.
>LT1 F-Body (Probably Auto or completely trashed at that price though)
>Panther (Slower than 6 seconds 0-60, Only Auto)
>e36/46 (twice the value of the car to maintain, insurance)
>Swapped Fiero (Insurance, 2 doors)
>Mk3 Supra (Slower than 6)
>3g DSM - (AWD)
Op I reslly think the car that fits your criteria the best is going to be the g35.
Basically I 4 door 350z. Nissan parts, although luxury brand, still cheaper than bmw. Easier to work on than bmw and I would think insurance is better than a bmw. Plus that vq35 growl and bulletproof 6spd.
Not him but what the hell do you think you'll be crimping and soldering on any newer car at all? Anything realistically you need to replace will have connections but what anon is referring to is computer work and diagnosing electrical issues. Not rewiring a window switch on a Ford Taurus
Maintenence would be insane becuase a 5k 330i would be beat to shit, not because its just a BMW.
Diy ing a BMW is actually fairly reasonable if you start with something that isn't falling apart.
there are some bmws that can do all that for 5k but they wouldn't be particularly good examples.
then again, maybe like an 01 330ci with some miles on it but well taken care of? E46 will require $1500 in maintenance and parts costs per year on average though
>only bmw techs know how to use multimeters
dude the e46 is a joke electronically.
literally fucking what? not even bmw techs do "computer work". unless you count OBD scans and resetting/flashing the ecm as "computer work".
go away grease monkey
actually wait, yeah, it may work. This one has some somewhat leery mods like Mparallels but it's not that bad compared to some i have seen, the fact he lists parts he's serviced in addition to dumb mods is a decent indicator that while he riced it a bit, he still took care of it
the idea here is to search for under 6k on craigslist and aim to haggle
Just because diagnosing electrical issues is easy for you, doesn't mean op can do it also, especially on more complicated German cars. Don't over think my comment anon...obviously bmw techs aren't fucking programming their cars. But yet again it doesn't seem like op would be able to diagnose an electrical issue in an old pos beamer. Either way...what fucking master tech is soldering anything...Grease monkey
what ever piece of shit of manual rwd v8 sedan u can find
Throw 100 shot of nos on it. Pray it don't blow the welds on the intake and shit.
Why do people always stress over this?
I put 800 miles a week on an 01 M3 coupe. Biggest expense is fuel and it's not even that bad for 93 now.
There is small bullshit I've dealt with but nothing insane ever unless you really need to tear deeper than the valves, mess with a torn frame, etc..
My 08 TSX is more expensive to maintain when things go wrong.
Plus design wise, E46 is much easier and bullshit free compared to the Acura.
I never neglect her.
I am chasing a stalling issue (4 to 5 times in maybe a month) that I think is either the fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator. I'm changing both tomorrow. Already cleaned the MAF but SES light still there as is the stalling.
Other than that I'm getting a new bumper cover on the 25th ($1,300) and I'm gonna do the entire cooling system by Spring(no more than $1,500 DIY).
VANOS seal will be replaced. Valve cover gasket I think has a very slight leak that I will do in the coming weeks (under $100.). My oil filter housing cover is leaking from the top that I need to address too some way.
I've had a screw that backed out from the top of the head that held the collar inside the engine that the timing chain slapped up against. This only leaked oil slightly. Fix was $40 which included new O rings around the thermostat housing and OEM coolant.
Again, my Acura is more expensive when things go wrong (which has never happened and I've thrown tens of thousands of miles on her too.).
My point is, my S54 does not cost $1k or $2k a year EVERY YEAR to maintain. That's just fucking insane and a number people pull from their asses to make like they know something.
IMO, you spend no more than $3k to $5k over a 100k mile period.
sounds like you've mostly been lucky then, the 1500 is usually an accurate number but does include big things going wrong suddenly like transmission failure and such.
check for vacuum leaks whenever you have stalling or rough idle issues, it's worth at least knowing if you have any because they'll dog you forever
NO EXCUSE to not get an e46. I made out well and I bought a total shitshow
this is 2.5 years/30k miles. I don't think you'll have to budget $1500/year like I did
basically I rebuilt this thing with upgraded brakes for $3000
these cars are really decent to work on too
like I said... no excuse
well, it's the best place to buy directly from previous owners, and previous owners can tell you what was done and give you service records. dealers generally destroy or ignore service records and just bang on about "oh it works fine right now!!!!111"
nice yob, cheaper than i thought
generally you can ask questions like when was the last time you serviced the cooling system, things specific to the model you're looking for
if they give vague answers or don't go into detail about service history, you can generally just move on
how does that even happen.. never sern an e46 with subrame issues irl
got a mate with a 330ci drift missle, he has crashed when drifting and hit kerbs at very high speeds several times but the subframe is still holding up well. he has bern beating on the car for 4 years already.
pretty sure they had a "recall" for it
as in they acknowledged it was a problem but you had to bring it in yourself and pay to fix it
only affected the early models
mine was a 2000 323ci
The S54 is plagued with subframe issues.
340 hp and a very nimble/lightweight frame.. owners putting their foot to the floor every time they accelerate just to hear that orgasmic, V8 like induction roar causes a lot of stress on the rear area of the frame.
The only cars that ain't shit are Asian cars: Toyota, Kia, Honda, Hyundai, mostly.
If you're a grease monkey, by all means pick up whatever you like to brag about fixing.
For example, you can rattle off really cool specifications if you have fixed your German car. Or, if you fix your American car, you can typically brag about "wild" repairs needed.
Now, if you just drive a new car, you can typically get about 3 months on it before the piece of shit has some goddamn thing break on it, though admittedly the power train of most non-exotic / non-British / non-Italian cars will wait until the warranty is out to immediately play out.
Non-Asian cars are, shortly, for idiots of one kind or another. Braggy ones, that brag that prove with bragging what silly subhhumans they are, having selected such a bucket of rattles, and those who believe advertising and other gossip crap. To the latter, you may as well marry Caitlyn Jenners.
it's fun to drive because manual, but in a contest between manual transmissions, the shift action feels awful and the clutch is eugh. it's like the lexus is300 in that regard
not sure if modifications to the transmission can improve it?
This is what I've had my eye on this month (Yes, I know, it's at a dealership, but it's really all that's near me.).
E46 is getting thrown around a lot in here for good reason, just thought I'd add the E39 into the mix. You should be able to get a well maintained facelift 530i in excellent condition with all service records for right about $5k, or maybe a slightly dodgy 540i.
they speicifcally mention scheduled maintenance in the description, that's.....very unusual.
call them up and ask them if they actually have service records in hand going back like 50k miles or more, probably more like 75k if its at 156k
i'd recommend against a 540i at that price range, it's great but you should really spend more like 7 or 8 grand for a real nice one, and they need more care than a 530i
the 530i is real good though, especially in manual, and the engine is much less troublesome
Yeah, I don't have high expectations, but I think I'm going to check it out this weekend since I have nothing better to do and it's worth a shot. I've been hooked on E46s for a while and I have a pretty good knowlege of what to ask and look for. Cooling system, subframe, valve cover gasket, etc.
I had a 1999 328ci, 240k miles, minor crash damage report from 2001, one side airbag had been deployed. aside from rust, worn drivers seat and worn bushings the car was great, no subframe issues, engine was like new. It was the cheapest e46 328 in the UK, found it on ebay lmao.
3. 4 door
4. Pretty sure its under or right at 6 sec but it'll carry its own against just about any other v6 or 4banger
5. A manual sedan can kinda be a pain to find but theyre out there
6. Insurance isnt terrible full coverage at 18 was $130 a month when I first got mine
7. Plenum spacer, aftermarket clutch, and a few other things are great small mods to do.
8. Gas mileage isn't the greatest, I average about 17-18, but highway driving you'll get 21-22 mpg.
9. For under 5k you're looking at buying one with about 160k on it, but as long as it was maintained I wouldn't bat an eye at the mileage, I bought mine at 150k for $4500. Turning over at 185k now and she runs great.
10. Looks are subjective but I love the short trunk long hood of the G cars
11. Maintenance isn't that hard and parts aren't too expensive
And there's my G35 fanboy post for the day
Because honestly, to me, FI is just another component of a car that is going to break eventually, and I'm just going to have to deal with it. Plus, as cool as a turbo flutter or a supercharger whine sound, I'm more into an engine making its own power at good ol' atmospheric pressure.
That's because we all want to relive those first car feels
>the search for the perfect car for you
>the excitement of you and your car friend going to see it
>tfw firing it up for the first time
>tfw putting it into gear
What was it for you, /o/? Mine was a 530i.
i understand the attraction to n/a power, so more power to you, but I think it makes sense when it's a small engine to go FI I think.
Also, the sw20 has a bypass valve, so there's no flutter.
Found a couple g35 sedans close to $5000, did a 200 mile search radius around 77041
Guys, my broke ass is after a car like pic related for about $20. I don't have much to spend because I blew a heap of shabs last week and now I have to wait until my next Centrelink payment comes in but I guess I'll ask anyway and see what's out there.
Volvo S90 for me. Actually meets most of OP's requirements but automatic only. It's a good, solid automatic mated to a smooth and reasonably brisk straight 6 but the car ends up being more of a granny cruiser than a hoon mobile. That said it didn't stop mine from getting some skids and airtime. I paid 2k for mine and put another 1k on maintenance (tires and preventative timing belt job).
Honestly if I could do it again I know I could get one for less in better shape than mine was, but I'd spend the extra dollar on a wagon. That way I could hoon with 2 extra passengers in the third row looking out the tailgate and probably puking.
compared to an f30 yes its a joke, but an e46 has a more advanced electrical system than a current model ford or chevy
and you obviously have no idea what youre talking about if you think all "computer work" involves is obd2 scans and flashing ecm's.
observe torque specs, aluminum bolts like to snap easily on aluminum heads. also, make sure you know what youre doing when you fuck with an m cars vanos, its an extremely high pressure system
E36 328i? 7sec 0-60, 20-25mpg, pretty reliable compared to newer models and easy to work on/squeeze a bit more power
Not strictly true, the M52 engine in the 323i and 328i can take the inlet manifold from the older M50 325i which gives a noticable increase in power.
I think you can do it on the later one in the E46 323i and 323i with the 330i manifold, but that involves throttle bodies etc.
To be honest they drive very well out the box, and are more about handling than outright speed. You can supercharge them if you really want, but as you say that involves a lot of fucking about.
Lie I said, the 330i fits everything in my list except for the part where I don't want to spend all of my money on maintenance, and some people say that they aren't bad, but I'm not sure if it's just because they're BMW fans or not.
Owned an E46 for 4 years, they are totally fine. No worse than my old Mondeo.
Watch for rust, but then I do live in Scotland and our roads are covered in salt for most of the year.
Cooling systems can go, but easy to sort. I have had to do a few suspension bits but parts are cheap and they are easy to work on. Not much in the way of electronics that can give trouble, mine is a 1998 car on 220k.
It's the people who irrationally hate BMWs that are bad, anybody who knows shit knows that the M54 is cheap as fuck to maintain. Like you said, you basically just have to look for one with a cooling system overhaul and then you're good.