>Datsun or early 80's Nii-San
>Datsun questions and answers
>Datsun photos and videos
>Datsun stories and CL finds
Sorry for no threads recently, been busy fixing the '84 Honda and the house after the fire.
BUT ONWARD, DATSUN OWNERS!
just discovered that the 280Z plastic glove box will fit in a 240Z dash with some finagling. Muuuuch better than the stock cardboard 240Z glove box.
whoever discovered this was a genius.
A 280Z glove box is like $15, while reproduction paper boxes (which are weak as fuck) are like $50.
The only flaw of the s30 is how high it sits of the ground stock
>gong that low
What do ya want me to do, puke?
There's still a pretty reasonable gap from the car to the ground. I think it's perfect
nigga that car is getting its frame rails dragged every time it hits a leaf. That car ain't gonna survive long.
Acceptably low would be like pic related
Goddamn, why don't you faggots just get one of these then?
Finding some fun stuff under the years and years of registration stickers...
Drip rail trim removed without any kinks in the trim!
I also saved this from the dumpster at the local library warehouse.
I've been debating liberating that manual from my shop's library. It was left over from the previous owners and has no use at a European specialty shop.
Hell, even the old Mercedes manuals have almost no use there.
Finally decided to tackle the 240z SU carbs on my 260z. Going to treat myself with a glorious set from Ztherapy.
Ask for it, they'll probably give it to you.
Also, CHECK OUT THE POLISHED PLAAAAATE! It's been sitting outside for over 20 years, and it was hellaciously oxidied. With the power of paper towels and Tom's whole care peppermint tooth paste, we now have one polished license plate! It actually looks really damn nice in person.
(And yes, its obscured, this is 4chan after all)
I got down to the OG reg sticker. A hair dryer was a fantastic tool for this.
What are the differences between the Zs? Is it just engine displacement, or are there options packages I should be aware of?
Are there any model years I should avoid? I know I want a manual, but I don't know if I want the two seat or the 2+2.
This is a shameless repost of what memeber "BRAAP" posted on HybridZ, so all credit goes to him.
>260Z: '74, early and late variation
Body line wise, ’70-’78 were pretty similar. The creases, roof, fender, and hood lines were all the same. Exterior differences were the bumpers of course, taillights changed at the introduction of the 260. The front lower valence on the late 260 and all 280’s is lower, (to accommodate the larger radiator and open up the radiator opening to compensate for the larger bumper), and the late 260 and all 280’s also have the front turn signals in the grill just under the hood instead of the below the bumper in the valence corners as on the 240 and early 260. The very early 240 had the interior vent outlets on the bottom of the rear hatch, late 240 and all subsequent 260 and 280 cars that interior outlet vent was on the "C" pillar behind the badge just behind the quarter light.
you guys are dicks, woooow.
In general terms there were two distinct interior designs. The 240 was one, and then the 260/280 was the other. The 240 didn’t have to many interior changes through its production. The 260 interior was totally revamped. The 280 retained the 260 interior. In ’76, the shoulder belt mount point went from the “C” pillar to the strut tower, (seat belt doesn’t dig into your neck as much on the ‘76+ cars). Also, in ’76, the AMP gauge became the Volt gauge with a fiber optic charge light. In ’77 the only significant interior changes were the font style of the gauges and the doors received a total redesign internally, which relocated the window crank and the door lock switch. The door changes in ’77, (which carried over to the ’78), made for much heavier doors, but the window regulators were much smoother and the actual door striker design was totally different than the earlier ’70-’76 doors. Doors for the ’77-’78 will not interchange with the earlier doors due to the different striker design. In ’78, the speedo received KMH in small blue print. Either in ’77 or ’78, under dash foot well lighting was also added. In ’77, the Z received larger capacity fuel tank which encroached on the spare tire well necessitating the space saver spare, (the 240, 260 and ’75-76 280 received a full size spare tire), and also the ’77-78 rear hatch area now has a raised false floor which was to accommodate the larger fuel tank and that little deflated spare. Depending on which manufacturing plant the ‘77/78 was manufactured in dictated how the that false floor in the hatch area finished out to the rear. Some were flat level all the way back, others kicked up at 45 degrees to the hatch.
Where is everyone? I can only troll so much when there's only 2 other people ITT
There were subtle structural differences as well. The late 260 and 280, the trans tunnel was widened substantially at the bottom. For some guys doing V-8 conversions, that is a big plus for exhaust routing. The T/C rod mounts were beefier as well as portions of the frame rails on the late 260 and 280 vs the 240 shell. As mentioned above, the late 260 and 280 had a larger radiator opening and as such, the lower core support dropped.
Functionally and in basic design, they were all similar. The 280 strut tubes were a little thicker, the 280 had a little more caster, it has been said that the 280 rear control arms are a little heaver gauge material. The front cross member of the 280 is a little beefier as well. Brakes were the same, though the later 280 had anchored dual piston wheel cylinders in the drums vs the earlier sliding single piston wheel cylinder. The 260 received slower steering rack and pinion and the pinion housing was cast iron vs the 240’s aluminum. (The rack and pinion may have been and early to late 260 change, someone else here would know for sure).
The 240 had the 2.4 liter inline 6 cylinder (L24), the 260 had the 2.6 liter etc. ’70-’72 had the desirable 'round top' SU carbs, while the ’73 240 and the 260 received the 'flat top' SU carbs, which are heavily smogged carbs that people complain about. The 280 received the virtually maintenance free EFI (Dat L24 edit: if the injectors are clean, contacts are clean, rubber is new, and the ECU isn't shit). Electronic ignition was first used on the 260 and carried through the 280 series. 5 speeds became available in ’77. In regards to the engine and trans, due to the cars age and all the previous owners, it could have any engine and trans and any induction system as they all readily interchange.
There are other subtle details that I’m sure others will fill in, but that should give some idea as what the major particulars are.
Don't worry, anon is here. We have always been here and always will unlike those fickle tripfags who trip and talk about their latest passing interests until they get bored of them
That sure is a lot of information to take in. At least the parts on the z are interchangeable. So what the post says, is that the later model 280zs are better to work with than the older 240, 260, etc.
But right now for collectibility, the 240z is the most desirable.
What about the 1980-83 models? I heard at an rx7 blog that the 280z at that point was a bloated, pigfat and confused sports car.
Of course that's an rx7 fan wanking about wenkels.
Were there major changes in the 80s models?
The 280ZX is a completely different car. The only thing that carried over was the engine block. Not even the head, just the bottom end (and even that got changed slightly).
The 280ZX and even the last 280Z were marketed as grand tourers rather than sports cars. One change that wasn't mentioned on the '77s is noticeably softer suspension. By the end of its run, the S30 weighed almost 2,900 lbs.
The biggest functional difference between the S30 and the S130 was the change in rear suspension. The S30 had Chapman struts in the rear, which are great for spirited driving. They're light and behave similarly to double wishbone setups. It's kind of a middle ground between DW and McPherson.
For the S130, Nissan went with semi-trailing arm suspension, which is balls. It's really only good at maximizing cabin space and squatting on acceleration.
As far as I'm concerned, the only thing the S130 is good for is ripping the engine out of a turbo model and putting it into an S30.
Well the main difference between the 280Z and 280ZX is that they are completely different cars.
Okay: you've got your S30 chassis. That was made from model year 1970 to 1978. That includes the 240Z, the 260Z, and the 280Z.
There were a few minor changes though the years like some thicker metal on some stampings, frame rail length, side impact protection, etc, but the chassis dimensionally is the same.
Then you've got your S130 chassis, from model year 1979 to 1983. That was marketed as the 280ZX.
The S30 and the S130 are *completely* different cars.
The only thing they share are the basic drive train design, a few small trim pieces and some light bulbs.
Close name, completely different chassis.
The S30 is lightweight, handles well, and has a fairly spartan interior all considered (sans '77 and '78 models). It is a sports car, no doubt.
The S130 is heavier by almost 700lbs in some cases, it's plush, it has a lot of smog shit on it, ugly ass crash bumpers, and it's a bit more cramped inside thanks to "HOLY FUCK LOOK AT ALL THIS LUXURY"
But the biggest performance difference is suspension.
See, the S30 has a chapman strut with rear A arm, where the S130 went with the semi trailing arm like that of the early 510s. The S130/510 rear suspension works alright, but is inferior to the early S30 setup, due to the fact that the semi trailing arm setup has huge amounts of squat under acceleration which results in camber & toe changes. The most likely reason is that the semi trailing arm setup allows for a lower floor, hence, more cabin space. It's all about packaging, not about being better.
How much fun you would have with the S130? I think you'd have a lot of fun, depending on how you used it. The aftermarket for S130's is smaller than for S30's, and their value is much less than S30's, but I think that will change with time.
So that's why no one talks about the S130, and why everyone is fixated on the S30. It is in fact a pigfat grand tourer.
So what you're saying is that on top of being more desirable, and lighter, the S30 has a better aftermarket, and probably would do better for a restomod project.
And all this on top of having the option to swap the turbo i6 into the older Zs.
And there's a literal book on putting Chevy v8s in these things. (I'd probably stick with the i6 for many years, but it's good to know.)
There's a very small list of reasons for me to not keep looking for a good Z and buy the shit out of it. And it keeps growing smaller.
If you're not fixated on any one iteration of the S30 like I was, just go for a 280Z. They're much easier to find, less cancerous on average, and can be had for thousands less than a 240/early 260.
If the bumpers are an issue for you, they can be swapped out relatively easily.
>It is in fact a pigfat grand tourer.
That said, if you strip the interior, install some aftermarket suspension bits that greatly improve handling, and ditch some of the emissions shit, they can be very decent weekend cars. The manual trans, hard top coupe weights like 2,800, and you drop a LOT of weight if you remove unnecessary shit.
2,500lbs and 250hp is very attainable in an S130, and a V8 swap is easy as well.
A minty fresh autotragic 2+2, targa top S130 with a turbo iron block LS is one of my dream DD's, just for the sake of being stupid, fun, fast, and cheap.
I honestly wouldn't mind just swapping out a bumper. It wouldn't be too big of an issue for me. I might even get some of the aftermarket stuff. It does look pretty good.
I could still do without the auto, but if I bite the bullet and get the S130, I may just strip out all the luxury and try to recreate an earlier interior. (That would probably be a really ambitious project, and may just be cheaper to wait for the older S30.)
As far as aftermarket stuff goes, buy any and all suspension bits from T3 EXCEPT their coilovers. T3 coils do not have independent ride height adjustment. The more you drop the car, the less overall travel you get. BC Racing and CX Racing both make fully-adjustable coilover kits for the S30 with bolt-in camber plates. The CX coils are just copies of the BC coils (and cheaper), but I'd go with the BCs for overall quality.
>I may just strip out all the luxury and try to recreate an earlier interior. (That would probably be a really ambitious project, and may just be cheaper to wait for the older S30.)
it would definitely be cheaper to just buy an S30 at this point. Now, 5 years down the road, who knows. But the exterior of the S130 will still look completely different than the S30.
And swapping the bumpers on a 280Z to 240Z bumpers is a little more complex than ND-001 explained: it involves making custom brackets (not impossible, just a little time consuming), and compressing the bumper shocks (easiest method) or removing them entirely (difficult, since you must drop the gas tank to remove the rear passenger side shock, but it is definitely the best method, plus you'll drop an easy 25lbs from the car)
I would definitely like to buy my z within the next three years. If I don't get a z, I may go for another Datsun, or one of the other 70s Japanese cars. I really think these are some beautiful cars that need to be preserved, and aren't because people don't give them as much prestige as American and European cars.
The Z simply looks like the most affordable, easiest car to get into.
as of this moment, it is. Three years from now, probably not. We've got a huge amounts of media coverage and a resurgence in interest in Z's in just the last year, and values are climbing fast.
Where is your general location? I'd love to hunt on CL for ya.
I live in Canada, Ontario specifically. So finding a cheap Z is already difficult because the ones that have been driven were often driven through winter.
So my options are usually upvalued, one or two owner vehicles that have been taken care of, or stuff that sat for a long time.
I take time to look around my area as well, just in case I find one an anon might want to snatch up. And I've got a grand tucked away in my project fund so far.
I think it would be cool if anons on /ddt/ put stuff in their area up. Maybe we could get a doc or a list with ads from various countries of likely Datsuns.
Ouch, that's almost as bad as England when it comes to sourcing Datsun's.
I'd suggest you consider importing one from here in the U.S., maybe Michigan since that's close enough for you to drive there and back.
But I'll keep looking for ya, and keep your eyes open as well, you never know if something might pop up.
Saw this shit on craigslist for $15000, thought you guys might appreciate it
Denver, Colorado actually. No parades, but here are some excerpts from the ad
>emblems and rear bumper shaved for a super sleek look
>400 crank horse small block chevy engine
>cool nostalgic pro street look
and apparently its only 10 grand now
This car is a second generation Asian from an immigrant family who buys a big pickup truck and holds regular barbecues.
I don't think there's a single thing I like about that car.
>Only goes straight
>That fucking wheel
>Stupid bullet tail lights
>Not even caged
>Did I mention the yellow?
it's about as boomer as it can get.
This is definitely my reaction photo to it...
The important question is the one that >>14244132 asked. Because if it'd the floor pans, frame rails, or battery tray, those are easily enough fabbed by you. All you really need is a few 2x4's, some hammers, and a nice table. With those tools, simple repair panels are definitely attainable.
Right now I've got a grand tucked away for the fund, but I'm willing to make payments with someone, and I'll be saving more over the next year or two.
Judging from the earlier discussion, I just don't want an S130. I am also fairly mechanically inclined, and I do know fabricators. So that opens options.
I have a thing for petite Asians...
I do want a project in some ways. But a project may be difficult because I don't have the proper facilities for one. No garage, and I live in an apartment. So I'd have to rent someone's garage.
I think I would probably prefer a project that rolls, or runs, but runs poorly. The kind that lets me get my hands dirty, but that I can do in a driveway.