What did you do to your car recently?
What do you plan to do?
I had to replace both radiator fan motors.
Painted the impreza trunk and roof a couple nights ago, doing the rest today
I get to replace my clutch master cylinder tomorrow. It has been spraying brake fluid all over my floor board.
While I'm at it I'm gonna flush my transmission and coolant, since they're both well overdue.
Why did I ever buy a salvage title....
I put a 6 cylinder in it
Future plans are get it running of course.
Thermostat housing o-ring, and I need to replace it again anyways because it's still being a bitch. So I'm just going to do the whole thing.
Replace my alternator, since it just died last night...
Made a fiberglass fender for my car and just finished sticker bombing it.
I'm going to rebuild the entire front end of my car with my tax return
-new reinforced control arms with geometry corrected for shelby drop, bolt on ball joints, all bushings replaced with bearings
-throw ram type power steering in the trash
-manual steering from a 65 car (improved geo) and rebuild the box
That's the big stuff, only thing that will be original are the spindles
Also still chipping away at the body and should have it in high build primer in around 3 months
Buying these wheels and some tires. If I have enough left over I'll upgrade the brakes.
Replaced lower control arm and axle.
There was no reason for it to be as complicated as it was.
Although for the 1200 I've spent on it, including the car itself, in the 3 years I've had it, I've pretty much gotten my moneys worth.
Here's to the next 20k, upon which it will explode and take out the surrounding neighbourhoods.
replaced the rear diff fluid and painted the cover...
Had to replace the entire steering rack today on my 04 F150. It originally needed a power steering line but the damn thing wouldn't come out and was so corroded it broke. So I pulled the old rack and ended up fucking it up taking the old line out. I only realized this after I reassembled it all. So today I pulled it out again and swapped in the new one. Works like a charm.
Still gotta get around to the blown head gasket on this one tho...
I dunno. Ive got a gt4094r for this engine and i do have a 2.3t mustang so its possible. I dont post often but ive been posting off and on for about 5 years.
I believe in you, you just need to believe in yourself Anon!
You can do it!!
Are you sure the connections to the battery are good.
It sounds stupid but sometimes it's something as simple as that.
Had some electrical issues once, turned out the negative lead wasn't on just right.
Theres not much to tell. The engine is a JDM import Aristo takeout, 50k km. Chrome bits I had laying around off a supra my dad had. Rear sump pan off an sc300 drilled and tapped for oil return. Gonna put either some brian crower 264 cams or GSC S1's in it. Like i said i have a Garrett GT4094r for it. Greddy manifold. Stock toyota 4 speed overdrive automatic. The wagon just has an AJE universal mount tubular K member. It's all real simple and it fit in great with the AJE k member.
The plan is to make 600hp to the wheels. ID 1000 injectors. Titan billet fuel rail. Not sure if I'm going to run stock ECU with piggybacks or use an AEM yet. Got an 8.8 rear end with 3.55 gears to put in. Heres muh turbo
Installed a big ol' Mishi FMIC on my s550 mustang
Did brakes, new PS lines, relocated PS and coolant overflow reservoirs/fabbed new brackets, messed with some electrical, and made new optispark (that's right, optispark.) vent lines for my land cruiser
Fun winter break. Going to do a muffler delete on the stang and make a new y-pipe for the yota soon.
Some fasteners are the same threading but longer/shorter, or have different heads. It's a bitch when you drive a screw that's too long in and it splits the mounting point.
Plus it takes very little effort and I don't have to hunt for screws.
also don't spend that much money on Injector Development injectors. Get SouthBay or FID. 3/5ths the cost and they're the same product. seriously they're all bosche cores all they do is make machined top hats. they say they change the way the nozzles flow but I claim bullshit.
I kept my stock A arms and suspension. Coilovers aren't necessary for what I want to do and this is my DD and I don't like tubular a arms on the street. One good pothole and you're fucked
I'm friends with the owner of a big supra shop down here in Florida (not titan) and he can get me ID injectors real cheap so that's who I'm using.
the bumpsteer kit is threaded rod/turn-buckle and heim joints with a dropped tie rod stud. its not coilovers or a-arms.
Got BMR springs & LCA's and Konis waiting to go in this winter
Replaced the belt tensioner and idler pulley, new 150a alternator to replace the stock 105a that was on the fritz.
Replaced the shitty blazer drive shaft that was too short that was in it (bought this thing without getting it on a lift, took a gamble and lost badly) with a new steel shaft to OEM specifications from Proshaft LLC.
Rebuilding the ragged out stock 10 bolt rear end this weekend. Yukon gear swap to 3.42 from the stock eorn down and howling 2.73 set that's in it. Brand new Eaton limited slip differential, and full new bearings.
Also a new TA performance rear girdle cover to keep it all nice and tight for good.
Oh I barely read your post my bad. I'm not worried about it right now. If i decide i need them I'll pick up a set from TRZ they give me good deals and i like their kit my dad put them on his fairmont. Sorry about the shit picture its off an old phone.
I roadside fixed my 240sx injector plug with an paperclip.
I need to pull the harness and replace all 4 due to age.
Swapped my winter tires for my all seasons. I got a road trip to take tomorrow, with the destination being too warm for winter tires, though the trip itself it gonna be mostly below freezing. My logic is the interstate I'm taking is very populated with truckers (I80 from SLC through Nevada to Sacramento) so the roads should be ok enough to make it.
I also installed some aluminum pedal covers for +5HP.
Just came in from checking for parasitic draw on the E30. God damn it's not too cold, but the fucking wind is intense. Had auto parts place check my battery and alt earlier. Said it was all good, and the car could be jumped each time I had a problem.
One video said the range for okay is 20-35 mA. ETCG said 50mA. Was pulling 60 doing nothing (had fun rigging zip ties and cardboard to kill the trunk light). Fuse 21 (interior lights) pulling 30mA, and Fuse 27 (central locking and other shit) pulling 10mA. Took the 21 out for now.
I remembered the other day I was fucking around with the interior lights which have been broken for years. Maybe the wires are fucked now. Guess this as good excuse to wire something better up
how comfy is the new gen of mustang? I'm thinking about getting one possibly
Fuck wiring man, gotta chase the same thing on my Camaro but I haven't bothered because I want to just do a new harness.
Today I put new o-rings in my oil filter adapter for the third time on my Jeep, hopefully that'll keep it from leaking. I also finally got my Camaro's brakes sorted pretty well so it's finally driveable.
Very! The stock seats are amazing and the recaro option isn't really necessary. I do a five hour drive twice a month and I'm only a little sore at the end of it. This is with the stiffer performance pack.
The only thing I didn't like was the pedals, I added an LMR clutch extension, steeda heel/toe gas pedal, and removed the clutch assist spring and it's golden.
Was going to hunt down why the electrical system keeps tripping a battery hazard light that keeps coming on intermitently but someone stole my voltmeter and I just had to drive my dad to the hospital so fuck my plans.
Fucked with the timing a bit
15 initial, 37 total, +4 vacuum
Ordered a ton of stuff this week...
New front strut tower brace
Four upper shock mounts
Tein coilovers (Street Advance)
Inner tie rods for both sides
Outer tie rod ends for both sides
Wheel bearings for both front hubs
Oil pan brace
Engine torque arm
Will be busy next weekend.
Also had electrical gremlins so I bought a bunch of 4 gauge and 8 gauge wire, crimp ends, hydraulic crimper, and just spent the evening regrounding everything. Seemed to help with electrical noise issues I was having.
yeah I just got done fucking with my bikes wiring. Replaced ignition switch and swapped in a new brake master cylinder + the brake switch
bike battery drains too, just not as bad. not sure if it's the shitty battery I bought or wiring. pic related the xt with it's face ripped off
got a fuck ton more shit to do for bike anyways
dank. probably going to test drive one this coming week. I kinda want an ecoboost, but fucking v8 is great.
Ordered new inner and outer left tie rod ends and a bunch of bushings.
Put some rally armour mudflaps on to prevent road shit getting thrown at mah shit paint.
Does /o/ spray paint common maintenance parts aka oil pan, fuel filter, etc for non /o/ familiar friends that want to start being able to locate them and maintain their own cars?
Replaced the rubber interior lightswitch covers on my rocker panels. Had to get them out of junkyard but they were free with a couple other things I needed. Now the dome light isn't on all the time even with the doors closed.
Also need to cut off a welded quarter panel at a junkyard so I got a cheap 12v cordless angle grinder incoming that I'm going to modify to hook up to the cigarette lighter power port on my portable jumper. Fuck those hundred dollar small batteries. Doing the same thing with a sawzall and a transformer to give me 18v for that one. I guess that's the positive of getting things with obsolete battery packs. So cheap. And the big lead acid boy will run much longer.
Oil change is about all i've done recently
To do when I have time or money for some-
Axle u joint replacement
figuring out noise when turning or driving? Random noise
Probably more that i'm forgetting atm.
Question. Is buying a used 2 post lift okay?
Seen a few going for $900-$1000 that look fine.
Not a bad deal if I get smeone check them out and make sure everything is in order?
Looking at a 4 ton lift fo $900 in particular
Finally got around to filling the gaping hole where the original radio sat. Used aluminum and winged it with tin snips. Switches are just for lighting and and an amp.
>he thinks its believable that he bought a new car outright..
Nigger even loaded cunts still finance or lease cars. Buying one outright is fucking retarded regardless of having the !money or not.
I also agree, pretty damn comfy. They're decently quick, but I can't really attest for anything else Because the only cars I can compare it to are a 75 F250 and a Crown Vic. Compared to those two, the mustang is a Ferrari.
Sup wrench monkeys truck fag here drive a mack 9 speed that has been leaking transmission oil for a month now smelt burning the other day would i smell it burning or is it probably clutch? Shouldnt smell brakes right?
What year and what did you use?
I lowered my '04 2-3 with eibach springs in the front, djm axle flip kit and longer shackles for the back with calmax supershox front and rear.
The ride's a little better now that it's had a year, and with 235/55r17 wheels it fills the fenders nicely. (Though spacers would not go amiss as I do rub at full lock)
Hoping after the drivetrain and brake work I can get tubular front end parts, new leafs and do a proper 4-5 drop.
Getting the motor all prettied up and fixed for this spring.
How hard is it to paint and do bodywork? I don't mean Mexican rattle can tier, but proper prep, filler, and metalwork to get professional quality work done? One of the most annoying things for me to pay for, and I always thought you needed huge ovens and clean booths to get good finish on paint.
It is 10/10 pain in the ass and takes a lot of learning and inherent skill. I did my wagon and I'll pay next time I want something done. I worked in a restoration shop for a year and it's shitty work.
Harder than you can afford pal