>Ask /o/ related questions and wait for other anons to answer it.
>Also, look through the thread for questions that can be answered by you.
Previous thread >>14166069
>trying to crank over motorcycle
>only plugged in the engine essentials with the harness leaving most of the peripherals unplugged
>hit the starter, clicks once
>can get maybe 2 or 3 clicks before battery is done
is it time for a new battery? is there anything else im doing wrong?
I want a 1975 or older car to avoid smog regulations here in CA and I'm on a budget. The car will be used as a toy for racing, modifying and hooning. I already have a DD. Should I get a mini truck like a Datsun 620, Chevy LUV, Mazda B series or Ford Courier? They're much cheaper than Mustangs and lighter too. And since they're body on frame they can withstand added power without getting twisted. Plus I can use them for work when needed. Good idea?
Where can I get some fun car reviews on YouTube? All of them are too serious and boring for something I will not buy. They might be good for consumer advice but in this case I am not a consumer.
well then, any sporty car with available auto transmission from the year you prefer
Bought an Edelbrock top end kit for my ford 289. Get my choice of edelbrock carb. Torn between the 600cfm performer or the 650cfm thunder avs.
Im worried that 650 is just too much carb.
Help me decide /o/
Got pic related as a gift. Thought it was gimmicky shit. Thing is a beast on rounded bolts though. Worth picking one up for that alone.
I might have described it badly. How about picture related?
Not the standard gator grip. It does metric sizes 11-33.
Amazon sells a smaller version that does 7mm to 19mm but I dont have one so cant say. (Now that I know they make one I am buying one though.)
Do you think the smaller one is still going to be able to fit in that space given? It's not a lot to work with. We tried vise grips and it still couldn't budge the fucker, but it wouldn't exactly grip it either.
I just went there yesterday to buy a 3 ton floor jack. Works like a charm. Guess it's time to go there again.
If I can get my car working anyways. Think I put the air duct on too loosely.
That's all I needed to know, thanks
Free R compounds are good R compounds
I have a 2001 Saab 9-5 manual sedan with a 2.3t engine. A couple of weeks ago I was driving in a construction zone, and hit a road cone. It went under the left quarter panel, and broke the mounting brackets that held the radiator to the front of the frame(?). My insurance company won't help, and my parents will likely go into debt if they pay for much of it. The radiator itself doesn't seem to be damaged, it is just loose all along the bottom and the top left side. It also shattered the windshield wiper fluid reserve, but that isn't anything that I need fixed. It seems to have pushed everything behind the edge of the radiator back 6".
When I turn the car on, it will idle, but if I rev it anywhere above 2k rpms, when it comes back down to idle it either struggles to catch itself at around 750 rpms, or it outright dies.
The check engine light isn't on, I've got an error code reader that comes up empty, and I've only got $400 that I can spend on the car.
Anybody have any clue how much it'll cost to fix?
take it to autozone, cars from that era will often thorow "non-critical" error codes that won't turn on the check engine light. They might be able to find a code if you rev it and replicate the problem.
How much am I looking at for a door lock cylinder replacement? The P.O replaced it but replaced it with a cylinder that matches a different key (which I don't have). The cylinder itself is just fine, it's just that the key doesn't work. How much will an auto locksmith charge to make it match my key?
There are a lot of 6th gen Honda Civic hatchbacks in my area all around or below 1500 eurobucks, but all of them has more than 200 000 mileage and none of them mentions anything about the engine.
Most of them seems pretty good on pictures.
Is it worth to pay attention to these and talk with owners, or they seem kinda fishy?
>what is a phone?
local shops charge different prices call around and get some quotes.
>call some shops or parts stores or junkyards and get some quotes
>what you always should do before you come to a Bangladeshi industrial machinery enthusiast board
>old ass hondas
>200,000 probably km
>about 1500 'peenbux ($1700 burgerbux)
yeah that sounds pretty globally normal, people asking too much for their old ass hondas is a trans-ethnic phenomenon.
1) they're never worth more than $1,000, but rice tax and reliability tax
2) they will do 300,000 miles if they're well cared for
3) they're never well cared for
4) mods and aftermarket parts = beat to shit
seriously just get a corolla or pic related that's been well cared for and not modded if you want a reliable vehicle. If you can find some grannies civic that she has shop records for that would almost be worth getting stuck with a 200,000 mile civic for $1250.
if you actually want a "performance honda" just buy the shittiest one you can with the best body you can find and get a better engine and transaxle from a salvage/junk yard, it will be about the same price if you do all the labor.
>source: amerifats junkyards will sell you a engine and transmission (with 30 day warranty!) for about $500-800 depending on size and block/head material
europeens have junkyards right? I know Germans do.
Thanks for the reply.
However Corollas and Dacias are nonexistent where I live. I forgot to mention I found a 4th gen one for 700euros with 165 000km.
It has a owner wanted to rice hard but run out of money feeling when looking at it.
that's not bad anon i'd do it for $800, and if they riced the right things it might not be too bad or you could revert back to stock for pretty cheap if you found a donor vehicle. Also well done exhaust mods can be all right.
If you had to live in a vehicle on a budget, what would be the best way to go about it? I'm thinking an SUV or van with bedding, a hotplate, minimalist kitchenware, hygiene supplies, and a laptop computer. For cold weather, use an electric radiator heater. For hot, put essentially a tent made of a tarp over the vehicle to keep rain out, put bug mesh over the open windows, and use electric fans to circulate air. This is assuming that you had either a generator or a place to plug in your appliances, and a supply of water. What could you do for a shitter, though?
how do I haggle on new cars? msrp is like 22k before ttl, and people on the forums are saying they buy for like 18-20k.
I wouldn't mind paying extra if it comes with a nice warranty and shit
I have a pr/o/blem
>live in Canadaland
>older vehicle no a/c to pull moisture out in winter
>recently started frosting up really bad
>on the inside
>literally everything is frosted inside windshield/headliner/my fucking headrests
>completely dried it out in a heated shop overnight
>didn't do a fucking thing frosted up within minutes of being outside
>use outside air driving home
>blows cold but doesn't frost up while driving
>switch to recirculation to warm up
Have a feeling it's the heater core but I'd like another opinion.
Yeah man shits fucked
Pic related, the truck that's driving me insane atm
most modern alternators will burn up or seriously shorten their life charging a dead battery and 15-20 minutes of idling might not be enough to fully charge it. Having the battery properly charged eliminates any possibility of this happening
no, I'm the guy that tech's out in the field call when they've put three alternators in a car that didn't last for more than 2 days because they assumed the alternator would charge the battery.
they die because the oems are making them smaller and less powerful. it saves weight and less power to spin them for better fuel economy. They also shut the alternator off at low rpms and under acceleration for economy reasons so the battery needs to be fully charged. The alternator is there to keep it charged and thats it. On older cars the alternator just came on whenever the regulator saw a load on the system, so charging a battery was no big deal.
Is there anything in particular i need to be keeping an eye out for on older dodge pickups?
1990 or older is what im looking for so i can avoid as much of the computerized shit
maybe find one with a carb and put a standalone injection system on it.
i know the basics as far as dealing with body rust, general wear and tear, just not sure if they have any recurring issues/quirks to watch for
So, I've been playing with the idea of manual swapping my E32 BMW. Now then, do I need to swap out some engine control units, computers and/or other electrical shit? I reckon they might go haywire once the transmission loses the fancy sensors and shit.
So guys I have a 2000 v6 mustang that has had a stroker kit installed with comp cams in the engine(pls no bully). But the paint is chipped on my mustang and was wondering what type of roller car could I put my engine into?
so do you guys think this is a good buy?
here is the VIN report
i've been looking at various cars and the Hyundai accent seems like the best fit, Ive read they're reliable and have good fuel economy. I really like this one but the only problem is that i don't know how to drive stick shift. I want to go check it out but I obviously wont be able to test drive it. What do?
me again. well the neutral indicator works
I'm 20 years old and am trying to finance a ~$17k car. I have very little credit history, but I can put down about half that amount in cash. Most dealerships are telling me with that much down, my credit will hardly matter. I know my APR is going to be insane, but I can always refinance later on down the road. My question is, do you think I'll get a better deal or better options or just an easier experience if I try to finance through a credit union such as VyStar? Or should I just go through the dealership?
Finally got around to putting tires on my new wheels. Get home, jack up car, put 2 rear wheels on. They stick out too far. Im against being a stance fag so i took the wheels back to discount tire and got the tires takin off. Should I send the wheels back and get a narrower wheel? Or say fuck it and go eith the 245's and have them stick out like pic related?
How much would you pay for this?
I'm asking 1800 obo, be good with 1500.
Motor's fine, drives great, new tires. Passes smog no problems.
But, driver's side needs a new handle inside, you have to open it from outside. $5 at the junkyard.
Right headlight is loose, like it cracked where it mounts, works, just hangs out if you dont hold it. $15ish at junkyard. Or have your buddy weld it for free.
And gas cover handle has to be held for it to open, or you can shimmy cover open.
I never fixed it cause it really didn't bother me. It's small shit.
But When i tell people that they act like the car has been totaled and it's worthless and lose interest.
Why do people expect perfect condition old cars that have had multiple owners?
Ok Im checking to see if my car has LSD or not and While they don't spin in the opposite direction, they don't spin in the same direction either.
If I spin one wheel the other will stay stationary, and if I start the car, and put it in gear both wheels will turn the same direction.
Oil catch cans:
Yay or nay?
The internet makes compelling arguments about having one, but, does anyone here have experience with em?
Will any kind of car benefit from em? N/A, turbocharged, supercharged?
what are the drawbacks to forced induction on a carbureted engine ?
seems like it might be more prone to knock due to inaccurate fuel delivery
that and it requires a especially prepared carburettor
I have thought about converting to fuel injection by using an fi throttle body
and have wondered if the distributor can be used to advance injection timeing
you serious nigga?
open diffs with the driveline locked will spin the tires opposite directions if you try to spin one.
most LSD's will do this as well but they have clutch packs that cause them to lock up after they spin a little.
Yeah, all positions. Previously only 3 and 4 blew air, but now it's all fugged.
I'm gonna test the relay and run a cable to the motor tomorrow. I swear to jeebus, if the switch is toast I'll make my own ghetto-ass switch instead of pulling the damn dash apart.
An unrelated question: is there any way to figure what kind of APR I could get on a car loan without having my bank pull my credit history? I understand that an institution pulling your credit negatively impacts it.
So I'm looking at the rankings at usnews so that I can see which car is best but sometimes older cars are ranked higher than newer cars of the same model so whar I'm trying to say is if all things are equal for a used car will a older model with higher ranking be better to buy than a newer one?
I went to check my oil and the cap was covered in yellow goo. Most sites say this is normal for cars to get in winter but how often should I check my car for it? I usually only do short drives because of where I live, so I'm guessing that and the weather is going to make it come back again.
>have 2001 honda
>notice car is shifting like shit
>check transmission fluid level
>put in nearly 2 quarts
>works like a charm
1 month later
>same problem occurs again
>car has barely been driven last month
>figure there must be a leak
>no t-fluid on driveway whatsoever though
I filled it up with transmission fluid and it's working just fine for now. It it a leak? If so, why is my driveway perfectly clean?
Most lsds spin the tires the same direction when one wheel is turned, a few special types with viscous couplings spin opposite. Mine doesn't spin the opposite wheel at all
This is why I was asking.
I think it was normal and there was no weird/burnt smell, do you have any examples of what it would be like if something was wrong?
I'm taking my car on a long drive right now to warm the engine up.
>Motor is approx. 2.2k miles for exploding
Seriously? I know little about cars and this is really making me worried.
Ok. I just finished the first half of my drive (a little over a half hour), I'll check under the hood in a bit or after I get home but I did notice the engine temperature was low. It is very cold outside though.
How large is the price difference between a 1.0L engine and a 1.4L engine in regards to fuel intake?
Are there other factors to take into account too?
I need a new car and I got 6.5k at most to waste, preferably less, what is a good car to get and is it worth it to learn to drive manual? My last car died after one year and it had a lot of problems ive read manuals have a lot less problems.
Why do offroad people scoff at independent suspensions? Is it just being stubborn and unable to accept something new or is there actually an advantage to having a live axle that I don't know about?
Manuals have less transmission problems, and are easier to fix when they do have problems.
If you can find a better deal on a manual than an automatic, learn manual. Just read how it works then putter around a parking lot or side street for an hour. You'll get it.
Got a 93 Ford F250 with the original wiring harness for the radio. Current aftermarket radio is broken. Bought an OEM one, but it's the "premium sound" version with a different connector. Are there any cheap adapters, or should I just look for a new radio?
Yes, actually, as the rediculous travel that these setups have would be very strained when fully out, and allowing it to resist sideways movement with the axle allows the suspension to be set up for even more travel reliably.
I drive an automatic transmission car, but I want to learn how to drive a manual transmission because all of the cars people work on seem to be manual transmission.
I was using the gears of my car to try to simulate driving, I only did this for a blck while driving through the city, I never came out of first gear and never went faster than 35. when I came to a redight and slow down to 15 mph, it kind of clunked and came to a stop. after that I just switched to the D gear. now my car has a slight burning smell for the past couple days.
Changed antifreeze....no water in oil, runs fine, low mile truck, did loses a quart of atf a few months ago with no signs of a leak, atf fluid still a nice red color 1994 f150 5.8
First you're a ducking retard as old autos aren't meant to be shifted like that and 1st should only be used up to 20 in most cars.
What color is the transmission fluid and what car is it?
Been driving for a month.
I noticed I don't really get much about whats happening behind my car. Since I fixate my view infront a lot
I rarely check on the rear mirror, only when I have to, or check when changing lane.
Am I supposed to constantly dart my view into the rear mirror and front of the car to have awareness of the body of the car when im driving or does it come with years?
I feel like I currently don't feel the car like the extension of my hand (ie. I don't have a feel for the back end of my car), not that its anything serious, but I'd like to get that feel so I can maneuver my shitbox better.
On mbile lost my long post.. so here's the tldr version.
>buddy ping pongs off guard rails after spinning out
>car is towed to shop, shop owner is not authorized for repairs/estimates etc
>just storage till his usual mechanic gets back into state.
>mechanic gets back, insurance adjustor is notified
>insurance guy shows up, shop owner does estimates on parts and time costs
>buddy and mechanic are notified about 2 hours after the car's been totaled out and insurance guy's left
>unable to negotiate about it because buddy wasn't there or some bs from insurance
>he ends up having to pay the gap, car gets sent back to carmaxx repaired and resold.
>friend doesn't have a car more or less forever as a result.
Allegedly this isn't the first time that shop owner has done this, especially with the express intent to quote oem prices and use aftermarket parts.
So, did he have a case against the shop owner?
The adjustors is supposed to talk to ONLY the policy holder, if you friend arranged for the mechanic to speak on his behalf then he fucked up majorly, and has no ground to stand on.
You'll eventually git gud. I hope you're constantly scanning your surroundings so you don't get tunnel vision and that shit.
Go for it. You might need to prime it forst.
Definitely worth a consultation. Try and follow up on those rumors too.
Did you check the sticky?
Just call a locksmith, say you want to re-key a car door lock. Ask what they charge.
If it's so cheap to fix, just fix it and you should get your asking price.
this is sad desu but it explains a lot of bad driving
yes youre supposed to look around to be aware. the only reason you should stare straight ahead and be afraid to look elsewhere is because you are incredibly unfamiliar with the vehicle and are struggling to keep it inside your own lane or find yourself too close to the car in front. if you struggle after a few weeks with it then you should probably limit your driving. the mirrors are there so you dont have to turn your head 360 degrees to look away, use them. after a while youll understand your fellow drivers better and you can kind of know where theyre going to be for the remainder of their time near you at a quick glance
i mean unless your car is fucked or youre driving along a vertical face, your car is not going to veer off course if you even let go of the wheel for a tenth of a second
I see, I just started to incorporate mirror glancing whenever I can, but it feels that the moment I take my view off the front that something may drastically change infront of me resulting in me being unable to take action.
Guess I really shouldn't do more than a 0.5 sec glance for lights.
well i'll tell you right now i think its pretty damn sad that people cant even glance at that stupid fuckin mirror device that tells you there's a car in your blind spot, which exists because people were already too afraid to turn their head to check it
>but it feels that the moment I take my view off the front that something may drastically change infront of me
that's fine and its a given, and i dont want to give you any false confidence but you have to get over that by getting comfortable with your vehicle and your own driving. the standard guidelines will serve you well; put 4 seconds between you and the car ahead, etc etc
go on casual drives for fun, where there's nice things to look at and you dont have to worry about keeping up with traffic or be late for anything
New one is bare. Old one has the OEM harness plus an adapter for an aftermarket unit. Don't want to hack up the adapter just yet. I have a suspicion the "premium sound" one needs a (shitty) amp to work.
Thanks for advice especially the one for casual drives.
I will definitely improve. My driving lessons pretty much consisted of dude playing on his smartphone and just telling me when to go left or right.
Rarely did he correct my mistakes. Which is why I guess some of them became imprinted, but I will get over them with time.
>Don't want to hack up the adapter just yet
do it anyways its fun
Not my vehicle. Also i'd still be missing the female plug for this radio. Pic related, the grey plug fits and powers it up but the black one needs an adapter of some kind to get shoved into the other hole.
Up until your stereo thinks it's in the mode that patches in phone calls any time the engine is running and you're consulting google and the taiwanese wiring guide because it has the best diagram and are trying to figure out which wire is fucked while trying not to look sketchy as fuck to the police officer that's cruised past three times.
>trying to figure out which wire is fucked while trying not to look sketchy as fuck to the police officer that's cruised past three times
dude are you homeless? was buying a car new enough so that it's also a phone the best financial decision
No I was trying to get the stereo to stop randomly swapping modes whenever the engine was running.
The old stereo died.
Most anyone would have looked sketchy with a pair of pliers in one hand, a scrap of paper and a cell phone in another, the dashboard of the car in peices and two stereos in their lap while night is falling.
I'd have to double check with him since this was a few years ago. As far as I recall he'd let the adjustor know where the car was and asked to be called when the insurance guy was 30 minutes out so they could meet at the shop and only got called by the shop owner after the adjustor had left with the news about the car being totalled.
should i buy new or pre owned. i know taking a new is lower apr and better loan amount from banks vs pre owned.
buy new. you want to look so rich that you're careless, dont you?
Then that's Bullshit but if it's been several years then likely he doesn't have a case either.
Honestly if had happened to me I would've sued the shit of the shop owner for fraud and insurance company for breach of contract.
Does it smell like coolant? Does it have the consistency of water? The only abnormal color I've seen coolant was when it hadn't been changed in forever and had scale and rust in it and looked muddy water. Not sure why it would be black.
I don't know anything about anything.
2002 Honda Accord.
For convoluted reasons, I'm trying to temporarily power electronic devices with a voltage inverter. My alternator does not output high enough at idle to power. I want to increase the idle temporarily to increase the alternator's output to a sufficient level, then bring it back down when I'm done.
1. Can this be done by just turning a screw on the throttle body? Do I need to do anything else? Is the ECU going to fight me?
2. Am I being a retard about this in the first place?
Just Get a bigger alternator, having high idle could cause problems, and depending on how new the car it might be an electronic throttle anyways which means you'd either fuck it up or won't be possible to change the idle on it easily.
Confirmed it last night with my friend, that the guy who did the estimatinng was only authorized to make sure no one fucked off into the night with it and that's all.
Mostly it's a case of too little too late at this point and serves as a lesson to the rest of us.
On a related note, anyone know where to get a ca approved cat that doesn't cost more than a full days wages? Same guy's trying to get a car running and ran into an issue that the catalytic converter will start to glowcherry red, i'e told him to just sawzall it off until he's got enough in the bank to make it legal again and reup the registration but his dad and mom were in the marine corps and would likely kick all our asses for that if caught.
>driving, minding my own business
>suddenly stereo powers off, gauges stop working
>lights start fading, engine is losing power
>fuck, no cell service too
>suddenly everything bounces back
>make it back home, test the battery voltage
>~12.25V hooked up to the car with everything off
>~11.3V with the car running.
Something's fucky here, could it be the alternator? The battery *should* be alright, but that idle voltage is a bit low still.
Check connections around the alternator. Should see over 13, ideally about 14 volts with the engine running. Could be lucky and it's just a lose connector, if not it will be the alternator itself. If you can have the car off the road for a couple of days Google for alternator refurbishment near you.
Not the anon you're replying to, I'm >>14232927
but I wouldn't replace the battery without testing it first. Most garages will have a battery tester but if not don't worry about it. If it starts to turn over sluggish after standing for a short period of time then I'd look into replacement.
What are some good cars that are easy to work on/good for learning about how to work on your own car?
I mean like working on the engine and shit. The hardest thing I'm capable of doing right now is changing out my rotors; so not very experienced.
Well, first thing, computerized isn't bad. Try working on something without an OBD2 port, you'll be in for a whole world of hurt if it's your daily driver and something goes wrong.
Either way, for Dodge products, typically keep an eye on the transmission and general electrical systems as they've been pretty notorious for being shit in Dodge cars.
Let them stick out, the additional width will provide better traction. Also speaking, the only time people really view stancing as 'retarded' is when the morons do the positive camber (tilt the wheels) bullshit. Other than that, no one will look twice at your Buick.
There are tons of cars honestly..
Strictly speaking, as cliche' as the answer is, a late 90s Civic or Corolla would be a great starter in this area.
However; you could really start with any car, the only reason I say those two is because there's an absolute wealth of online resources/documentation and parts available.
I did the same with my 07 F-150. There is tons of online guides/documentation (got my hands on a Ford Technician's Manual for mine) and parts galore. So your main goal is to find something like that.
Alright, I'll see about pulling the battery out and getting it tested tomorrow. I checked the voltage of the battery again and now it's a little under 12V with the car off. I'll look at the alternator once I figure out the pinout and it's not cold as fuck out. Thanks guys, appreciate it.
I finally paid off my 07 Rabbit right as it's on the way out. It's got 210k on it, needs new brakes, a new windshield, new struts, and the front bumper needs a few more zip ties since it's barely hanging on. I'd feel foolish dropping $1,500 into a 9 year old car, but as stupid as this sounds to say, I still love it. We've been through a lot together, and other than the roof fabric getting loose, I've never had a single problem since I got it at 73k. After spending high school and college in shitboxes, I couldn't believe I'd ever be able to drive something so nice.
I don't want to let go. But maybe it's time to move on. I rode it hard, put it away wet, and in spite of that, in the five years I've had it, it's the only thing I've always been able to depend on. Where do I go from here? Can I wring another 50-60k out of it? Do they make other cars that have everything it did?
Pic is from what will probably be our last road trip.
Found a pretty nice looking turbo kit for a 1.8L Miata on Craigslist. If I bought this, could I run it on my 1.6L with a different manifold, down pipe, and ECU? I understand I might need different parts here and there, but I was just wondering if the bulk of this kit would be usable.
Sounds like your alternators voltage regulator is fried so it is putting out less power than the engine is consuming. Sadly these days alternators are not designed to be user serviceable. Normally most cars will read at about 14v when running.
What is this car? Can't go out right now. Europe, seems to be an import.
Which car is the turquoise car?
Anybody ever bought "nankang" tires? Their 37" tires seem very cheap for such a large tire (it's about 500$ a piece here.)
but wouldnt I be out of luck even if it turns out the dealer gave me a POS?
Also which brand has the most reliable affordable cars? I've narrowed down to Toyota, Ford, Honda and maybe the hyundai elantra.
Would this be a good first car?
I asked in another thread a few days ago and it was a maybe because of the rebuilt parts of the car.
I don't want to fuck up and I don't shit about cars so any help is appreciated.
I have a 73 Dodge D100 with the 225 slant six and stock holley 1920 single carb. It's in need of a rebuild and the kit will cost around $60 after shipping, so I figured I might as well get at least a 2 barrel for dat fuel flow. What would be a good carb to look for?
Lemon laws may or may not protect you In your state. If you're afraid of getting screwed in both cases take the car to a third party trusted mechanic.
Of those 4 only Toyota or Honda would be considered generally reliable, stay away from Hyundai though if you want reliability.
I wouldn't get an auto lt1 Trans am but having a rebuilt engine isn't a negative so long as he has the paperwork proving it, and they aren't difficult to work on.
The only negative be that your insurance may not like you driving it
>20 year old man with no accidents or tickets on record
>Geico wants to charge me $230 monthly for insurance on a new-ish financed car
Is there anything I can do to get cheaper insurance? I'm not paying more than the car payment for that shit; I'll drive a 1990 F150 before that.
So, my car(s) get his kind of very very thin, moist film on the inside of the windshield. For the most part it doesn't impair visibility at all, but headlights for instance there's a secondary glare.
Anyone know what I'm talking about? Anyone know a simple solution to keep it from happening? Obviously just wipe it off, but it can get tiresome if it just recurs every couple of days.
Opinions/facts on the 2003 Mazda 6 manual? I think I found one on the cheap and it looks very well taken care of.
Stuff it i got a question
Whats the easiest way to put louvers in a bonnet to let the heat out near the firewall?
Going to get a wrecker bonnet and tart it up but i need ideas
>inb4 angle grinder
Nah i dont want cowls either i want proper functional louvers bro
I've a question... How the hell do you guys know so much about cars? I'm interested in cars, but I haven't a clue ain't them. Where do I begin to expand my knowledge?
>inb4 'straya, I don't know why my pics are up-side-down
Lurk this board you'll pick up some basic shit which you can then further research to expand you knowledge
Read Wikipedia and random articles about anything and everything
Most importantly get a car, a workshop manual, basic set of tools and get dirty
>2000 mustang gt
on cold to semi cold days when it has been a few days since I drove it, it will die almost immediately after starting up. Crank it again, and it will stay running just fine. It only happens when it has been sitting for at least a couple days. The fuel filter has been replaced recently and fuel pump works fine. No injectors have been leaking so far as I know. I know it isn't major but it bugs me. Any ideas?
I enjoy driving my 2007 Audi A4 but I've secretly desired a Challenger. Is it a practical car? Is it built well and trim pieces won't come off in my hand? Does the car last a while?
Speedometer on my 99 montero is fucked up and all the sensors and wiring seem to be solid.
Pulled the instrument cluster, removed speedometer board, The entire board SEEMS to be fine save for this "tail" of solder bridging over.
I can't find a single path connected here, but it could be a kind of grounding spot. Should this be concerning?
Doesn't look like a cold solder joint.
any ideas welcome.
Is there a way to combat this? From what I've seen I really like it and it's in great condition.
Also is ~$3900 a lot for one? I don't want to sound autistic to him when I say "WELL THE KAY BEE BEE VALUE IS". I play on haggling him down quite a bit. He's had the ad up for about a month now.
Don't do this. Those usually don't work, and if they turn on, they often won't even actually scan an OBD2 car. On top of that, there are cars that aren't very nice about scanning tools. I have a BAFX off Amazon, as that's pretty much the cheapest one that actually works. It's Bluetooth and syncs with whatever ELM327 compliant software. I haven't ever pulled an engine code, but it synced up fine and pulled whatever my Pontiac seemed to give. Most of all, do your research before buying. Read the reviews. Don't just trust anons
They don't want to deal with tedious fixes when they buy something in general, used or new. They also get a bad gut feeling, even if you think you can "prove" it's fine otherwise. At the end of the day, if they can perceive a better deal, they go with it. By the way, $5 at the junkyard has the overhead of finding one, and going to the junkyard takes time, as well as installing the part, or finding someone to install it for you. Not everyone is a car person, and not everyone wants to learn new things and leave comfort zones.
So my car has been feeling "floaty" for about 2 months now. It seems to want to fishtail even on dry ground. I just brought it to the mechanic who informed me it's a miracle I haven't been killed. I guess a strut or something was sheared off, I assume partially, and the wheel was barely on or something. I don't remember exactly what he said. Apparently it's like I was driving on three wheels and I could have very easily lost control of the car, and almost did on two occasions where I had to do a hard brake at highway speeds.
So, how the fuck does a strut even shear off in the first place? Did I cause this damage or is this "normal" wear and tear?
Repair will cost me about $1500 but that's not only for the struts there are other issues, a break down:
Caliper - $90
Battery (old one was leaking all over the place apparently) - $95 (expensive, aren't they normally like $60?)
2x new tires (old ones burned or something) - $185
Wheel Alignment - $125
Struts - $360
Strut top - $220
Labor - $~300ish
Dust Boot - $50 (uncle and I broke old one off when changing pads and rotors cause it was cracked, old, rusty, crusty, and in the way)
I know electronics. I don't know jack about cars. I've made little attempts to learn but I'm an idiot and I'm probably getting raked over the coals.
So I come to the conclusion that the car that should I buy is a ford fusion sel v6. It's the car the seems reliable and yet nice looking and a good price range.
I'm in university one year from finishing it and going to pay upfront.
Is it a decent looking car? any experience with first gen ford fusions, are they reliable, I'm thinking on grabbing an auto because there is no manual in the sel version which is the version im looking to buy. Are they fun to drive?
I'm from Mexico btw.
What are some decent Miata alternatives?
I've been looking into getting a Miata for a while, but I'd like to know what else I have as options.
178k miles on a 97 Subaru Outback Sport. Too many miles or ok ready go?
Friendly heads up for all us wannabe auto repairmen: never discount that people are retarded, and what seems like a simple part failure may in fact be advanced retardation on the part of the previous owner.
Another hot tip: lightly touching two wires and wrapping them in electrical tape is not a proper splice.