Depends on the engine and what filter you buy... my 2.4 has a capacity of 8 liters/8.4 quarts, so price can go up a bit if you use so-called premium oil, and filters like Bosch and OEM are more expensive than your chinese knockoffs or Frams
It's a high markup for the parts, but that's expected for a MB (parts would be less if you bought it yourself). The labor is ridiculous $120? For an oil change? Absurd. Let this be a lesson, anon. Do your own oil changes. It's only second to air filter changes as far as how big of a ripoff it is to get done.
>>14186318 see >>14186334 this and >>14186340 this. >>14186681 My 3.0 takes 7.5 - 8 quarts - it provides multiple benefits: -Engine runs cooler -Not a big deal if you burn and are often a quart low like me -Ridiculous service intervals (my 1990 calls for 7500 mile changes on conventional) - I still do it every 5000 but I do use conventional not synthetic because of the larger molecules. I have many gaskets on my car that need to be replaced, so if you use synthetic it will find any leak you have.
Also this may or may not be a side effect of the large capacity but my owner's manual claims that the car can, depending on temperature, accept pretty much any oil except the "might as well be water" shit you put into Hondas and stuff. I can take anywhere from like 5W-20 to 20W-50.
Once it warms up and I do my next change I'm planning on switching over to 15W-50 or 20W-50. I run 10W-40 right now as it's a good all season oil for this car according to the book, but it does burn a bit and now that I'm not driving it daily and I basically put it up in the winter, I'm thinking that higher weight will help get better pressure and burn less due to making blowby slightly harder (which is how I'm about 99% sure I'm burning oil, not piston rings) I know I know, fix the root problem but there's a laundry list of many other things that need fixed before that. Like my serpentine belt.
>>14186846 It's no rush, I almost never drive the car unfortunately. I want to keep the miles off of it (I can already get the 312kmi (500,000km) high mileage badge they give out - but I need to stop the rust from spreading - I plan on restoring it.
For some reason after winter break and being back to work I'm actually really motivated to start getting an itemized plan together and putting "in my head" price estimates to everything, despite nothing really changing in my life. And no it's not new years resolutions, I didn't make any, I just suddenly feel less depressed and more motivated. Hope it lasts..
So, biggest costs for me, based on nothing other than feeling and some slight research will be, in order of most to least: -Rust repair (I want it done right by someone who knows what they're doing, this is a long term project so I'm prepared(ish) to spend upwards of $8,000 on it and I'm just going to go with the mindset of "expect the worst and be pleasantly surprised" -Nickel and dime repairs to interior and body bits that are harder to find. -Nickel and dime repairs to mechanical components -Repaint -Getting tranny rebuilt -Rebuilding engine and changing diff to limited slip -Any mods I want to do -Industrial quantities of Little Trees
I know it's a lot of work but I plan on doing all the mechanical work myself. I don't know everything but god damnit this is (now) 2016 and I love to learn so I'm confident I can figure it out in time.
And why, you may ask? Because it was my first car and I still love it. It gives me feels - I drive a different car daily but every time I see pics of a clean CE or any older Benz my heart does a thing and I just want it to happen to mine. Because it's my fucking shit heap and I want my financial mistake to be with me when I'm 80 and have put over a million miles on the fucker. Benz is not just about luxury, it's a fucking way of life to love these cars.
>>14187391 Thanks VINbro, wish I thought to have you check the VIN on it before I bought it, wouldn't have bought it if I had known and would have opted for a cleaner one rust-wise but I was dumb and it's still a pretty solid car otherwise... I'm starting to put things in a spreadsheet with calculations of potential parts costs of everything I can think of, personal labor hours, an estimated difficulty, and some of the descriptions of what needs done so I can take an overview glance at it and see what I have and what I need to do so I can slowly but steadily do the work it needs. I feel this is the best approach. There is some bodywork I may be able to gain the skills to do but I'm not sure.
It's just sobering seeing all the shit and the numbers laid out in front of you as to what it's going to take to bring this thing back to its former glory.
First stage will be to obtain part numbers for all the shit I could possibly need then start tackling - hopefully by the end I'll have an impressive spreadsheet of quite a few part numbers for my car that I can refer back to if needed.
I'd love to have checked it for you, but unless you just recently got your car, I wouldn't have been around yet. Pre-VINbro era.
I fully support writing/typing it all out. That way you won't forget what needs to be done and you have a viewable reminder of the condition. Plus you can organize it by need and make sure you don't go spending time and money on minor stuff before getting to the important shit you somehow forgot about. I don't know much about bodywork. My buddy had to replace his fender on a GMC 1500 pickup and that was a much bigger ordeal than I'd expected. Unfortunately, I didn't even help with it, so I got no experience.
The more exhaustive your spreadsheet is, the better. It'll only make it easier for you.
>>14187872 shit you don't have to pay me man, I could try and knock it together in my free time.
What Benz are you doing work on?
>>14187886 Haha the windshield washer fluid bottle had a leak at the bottom. It had dripped fluid down on the top of the ABS pump and shorted a relay. Cleaned leads, replaced relay, flex-sealed the bottom of the washer bottle.
What was so funny is the super shitty job the sketchy dealership I bought it from had done at trying to black out the ABS/ESP warning light (pic related)
>>14187903 advance auto plus 30% off coupon from retailmenot
>>14187804 I think I'm almost done writing my sheet...I'll post a screenshot when I finish. It will include: -All repairs, maintenance items, and modifications to get my car to "perfect" status -A bullshit made up price based on my perception of reality.
Though, VINBro, you did help me buy my ZX3 Focus, you check its vin for me and so far it's been pretty good.. Had to replace alternator and exhaust but I knew about those going into the car and otherwise it's in great shape, makes an awesome little DD so thanks for that again.
Alright. I finished my sheet. And the grand total, even with me being what I thought was extremely conservative I came up to a gut wrenching total of.....
...Which is about $20,000 less than I was expecting it to come out to so I feel like I'm in a good position. This is everything I can think of right now there might be more and there's surely a few smaller things, and the rust repair might cost more but...Damn that's actually attainable...That's....Do able...
About $30,000 and about 340 hours into it and I think we might have a semi-realistic estimate.
>>14186222 Sounds about right. Owned a BMW for a few years and I remember simple servicing would be in the mid high hundreds. Really with those kinds of cars it's better to have the dealer do it because it helps with slowing depreciation.
>>14186190 >did I get ripped off? Bingo. Dealerships make shit tons of money off retards who don't know anything about cars and have money. Cars are fucking magical perpetual motion machines to normies and shops can do whatever they want to these retards. It's like how geek squad charges a hundred dollars to install a router. tl;dr you decided to put yourself in the normie box by taking your car to somebody else to have the oil changed.
>>14188437 I'm currently doing the head gasket on my own 91 300E (also, coincidentally the first car I bought) and am saving up for valve guide seals and a visit to the machine shop. This will take a lot longer than you're expecting, not necessarily man hours but in vehicle down time, in between shipping parts, weather, willpower, and general frustrations. But there is nothing more satisfying than driving a vehicle you have caressed every inch of and poured your heart into. Good luck man, keep that fucker on the road.
Wow. That is reaallly specific. I don't have it in me to do that, but I am damn impressed. I'm sure this'll make such a big project a bit easier. I can't speak on behalf of the costs and such, since I haven't a damn clue. But I will assume they're close to accurate.
If you want. I can't honestly say I'd end up taking you up on the offer actually. Knowing me, I will just have a basic list of things I want to do and then buy what I need at that time. I was never much for huge plans ahead (though maybe I should be...).
I mean not to sound like a boomer but you should always take a German made car to the dealer for changes because that is the only way it will last forever. These are cars that are meant to push that 230 Kph mark for multiple hours on an autobahn so I prefer to let the professionals work on mine. The plus side is I can be near my red line multiple times a week and my car still runs perfectly.
How long did it take them to change the oil? That's like an hour's worth of work, or really close to it. Surely it couldn't have taken more than 15 minutes to change the oil, so that means they either overcharged you, or their hourly labour rate is about $480/hour.
Both are plausible 2bh m8.
Parts sound about right, especially for synthetic. Still, I can get a full synthetic oil change and filter on my Toyota for like $75, including labour.
You would've been better off buying something like a decked out Solara.
>tfw RAV4 takes convetional 5W20 >only 5 quarts >8,000km intervals >163,000km and still going strong >starts every single time >unaffected by cold weather
>buying oil the other day >swaggot bro behind the counter tells me I should be using full-synthetic 0W20 >Toyota says it will run fine on this as well >tells me my car won't start in the winter without synthetic >ignore him and proceed to pay >keeps telling me all this shit as I'm entering my debit PIN >keeps telling me this shit as I'm picking up my bag with oil and filter >keeps telling me this as I'm walking out the door back to my car
Are the people at autoparts stores genuinely this stupid, or was he trying to upsell me because he's a real keener and wants to get that 12 cent raise?
>>14186799 Until people/mechanics became retarded, all manuals would spec a certain weight for certain temperature ranges. Now a days its, general use and cold use which is usually 5w-x for general and 0w-xx for cold.
Modern cars have a lot of panels under the engine that need to be removed to get to the drain, and oil filter, and I can see this taking up time. But when a car goes on a lift, its like 10 minutes to remove the panels, and start draining the oil.
Oil changes are usually a flat rate, includes vehicle inspection. Unless these dealers charge you for everything.
I work at Walmart and change oil for people all day.
Not surprisingly, we have a ton of mongs stumble in and pay silly prices for an oil change because they legitimately do not know how, its mystical. Granted, our labor and stock prices are much cheaper. We have a few management members and regulars who bring in their eurotrash to save money, and they do compared to most dealerships.
BMWs, Benz are both commonish, and even a Porsche here and there. They're a pain in the dick to work with sometimes, I dunno, not 500$hr labor charge bad though.
>>14191666 its always fun when some nig comes in with their new to them bmw 7 series with more warning light on than a vw car meet in moscow and they find out it needs full synthetic and holds a shit load of oil, and the filter cost the shop 40 bucks
>>14188809 It's literally my second "toy" car. I totally have another car to drive, downtime is no issue. And I should be able to have a garage wherever I go, so weather isn't a big deal. I don't prefer working in the winter but I absolutely can. So I hear, slow and steady wins the race.
>>14190768 $200 is a rough estimate. I estimate high and come in low and pleasantly surprised. I realize it's actually probably closer to $150 for a GOOD battery in one of these cars.
>>14190801 Yeah my Focus takes 5W20, 5 quarts worth all year round. Never burns a drop. Filter and drain are right up front and 100% reachable without jacking car. I do 5000 mile intervals though using Motorcraft synthetic blend as it's pretty good stuff and not super expensive. Benz I have decided to run either Valvoline or Shell Rotella.
>>14191424 I don't think the Benz would like either of those weights unless it was a high 5, but definitely no 0W. 10W is generally as low as I go and 10W-40 is my "winter" oil. These cars take very thick oil and have no issues with it.
>>14187763 Well fuck, maybe I'm using the wrong terminology then. I can see oil in the "PCV" tube (I put it in quotes cause it's really just an oil breather there is no PCV valve on this car I'm told) and in the air filter box. I think it's slightly sucking some oil over and burning it or it's just staying there. I'm not too concerned it's not debilitating and I'll definitely do the rings when I rebuild the engine.
>>14198102 Yup, and it was not helped by the shit metal and ill-fitted trim & bumpers that would chew through. They did a lot of repairs and repaintings here for the first years, but they repainted with the same paint....
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