MX5 (miata for amerifags) THREAD
>pic related my shitbox
>93 na6 rhd mx5
>enkei 92's with toyo proxes 4
show me yours!
My MX5 is in the shop.
I miss her so much ;_;
Fiata is better.
About the same weight,
more accessible power,
engine proven to not be faulty,
and not a fag car.
>About the same weight
Confirmed. It's the same chassis as the ND so it's not like it can be significantly heavier
>more accessible power
Confirmed. A simple reflash will get you to 200 horsepower.
Confirmed. Photos already exist. This is subjective anyway.
>engine proven to not be faulty
Confirmed. The turbo engine has already been around for a while with no significant issues aside memes from /o/.
>and not a fag car
Confirmed. It's neither styled nor badged as a Miata.
I have a '95 NA8 jap import.
Stock apart from 45mm drop all round, kyb adjustable shocks, and bbs rz alloys (bit like ops)
The engine is stock apart from 540cc injectors with MS2 management.
I have a TD05 to go on soon, just need to put the rest of the kit together.
I'm also planning to get some oem spec leather seat covers, better door cards, a roll over bar and a pair of sway bars.
You know whats better?
ouch my feelings
I'm really starting to miss my mx5
Enkei needs to get their shit together and ship my wheels
The chassis isn't better (it's actually not as stiff iirc), but the entire NA/NB is a lot lighter.
Now if you could just combine that NA chassis with, say, a new aluminium 2.0 Skyactiv-G, it'd be awesome.
>fiat shills acutally think it will look like that
> if you could just combine that NA chassis with
>wanting the floppiest chassis
the NB is superior in every way except the meme popups
>pic related is my '97
>FM 2.5 Kit (shocks, springs, anti roll bars, rear top hats)
>torsen on the way
If you had any engineering knowledge you'd know just how simple it is to build your own kit, and tune it yourself.
Its almost as if you didn't start learning about engines when you were 12!
Anyone else on /o/ run a turbo on their miatas? Even the stock mazdaspeed turbo?
Just fixing this one up but curious how can I lower the headlights so they're flush with the hood?
I own a '12 NC as my weekend miata
I used to daily a '08 for a few years
i've also owned 2 NBs and a still have a NA track toy
>i tried to buy one but they told me it was for girls not gay hairdressers
Are RPF1's and 6UL's my only choices for somewhat affordable lightweight 15X8 wheels. I cant seem to find anything else.
in my opinion its the best mx5 to daily drive
they get decent mpgs if you keep your foot out of the throttle
they sound the best of all gens stock imo
i would get the carfax and check if its from a northern state
i almost bought one that appeared nice but had a ton on salt and rust damage that wasnt noticeable from a quick glance
and with the nc2 you get forged engine internals if you want to go FI down the line
i would stay away from the power hardtop models they creak and groan and then break halfway up in the air
ive had mine for 2 years and 30k miles and its just been oil changes and gas
going to do the 60k service soon as some cars seem to eat belts and tensioner bearings faster than others
konig makes good light wheels too
konig 12 lbs
konig 12 lbs
PF01 12.8 lbs
assuming you wouldnt put a 7 inch wide wheel on a mx5
anyone got recommendations towards wheels for red miatas? I'm not the other anon above, but I don't want to get the same exact wheels as every other red miata owner, not that there is anything wrong with 6UL/RPF1
I want to buy a clean 96 or 97 NA, but they are going for at least $6000-$7000 by me.
For that kind of money I can get a 6spd 2001+ NB which is arguably a "better car".
Are the pop up headlights worth that kind of premium or should I just go with the NB? They never made the NA in Splash Green Mica or Crystal Blue Metallic either.
Will people pay nearly $10,000 for a 20 year old Miata though?
I can't imagine the pricing being any different on good ones, but I haven't shopped around for Miatas before. I just want a car with less than 100k miles and looks clean inside and out. I can get a beat up 1990 one for less than $2000 since there are dozens of them locally, but the few clean ones with the 1.8 are at least $5000 and if you want the LSD you're looking at about $6000 or more which is ridiculous for a 20 year old mass produced car.
I can get a 2003-2004 NB for the same amount, but it just lacks that cool 90s aesthetic that people love.
My qt grill. Got the top siliconed and sealed so no more duck tape.
I always liked gold wheels on red cars. your pic looks pretty good. enkei 92s I believe.
enkei rp01s also look pretty good on miatas
Should I buy an ND?
It would only take about 20 months to pay off with the job I have right now, and I would still have about $400/month to save up after my primary expenses.
21 y/o, living with parents i'm on good terms with, stable job, current car is paid off, no outstanding debt, good credit (785)
I imagine getting a 48-60 month loan, and just paying it off ASAP, so i'll have a safety net in case anything happens.
Last pic before I parked it.
I wouldn't jump the gun. Wait until the power hardtop model comes out so prices drop.
That wheel finish looks great with a red Miats
>US racing sports Type 1 front lip.
It's a Japanese shop
Lift the hood and then pull firmly on the headlight doors, the steel pieces themselves, to align the panels. The red knobs are for raising and lowering the headlights manually, not body alignment.
I do. BP-Z3 with FM2 GT2560R. Ask me anything.
I'm currently running a garret t2 hybrid omni hot side, 550cc injectors, etc. I just wanted to ask you about two things:
One: my idle is 1800-2100k rpm neutral and its very rough under 1000, but I've seen miatas idle fine at 900, what do you think could be an issue? Vacuum hose? Maf sensor?
Two: my oil pressure is scaring me and I'm honestly pretty scared to get on boost because of it. Oil about 40-45 cold, drops down to 20ish hot, but when I accelerate hard and get on boost, my oil pressure only slowly rises and peaks at 35-40, when it used to go all the way to the mid 60s. I guess my question is what is ideal oil pressure in relation to rpm?
I just hope I don't have to rebuild the bottom end.
Picked this up a month ago. Not sure what wheels to get, I'm thinking white mesh RS style BBS? Suggestions?
The other Miata: '97.
Took the 15 on a 5k road trip shortly after getting it. A+++
Feels very similar, I prefer the NA's slightly lower ride height and pop ups. Nearly everything else though I like more on the NC.
I've driven plenty of NBs testing too to see if I wanted one first time buying a Miata. These def are all a little bit different but only nit picks.
I have not driven any ND, but I can't imagine I would dislike it any less
I think they just hate on whatever is the current one they can't nostalgia over. While it is the largest, it has a ton of the same styling queues as the NA.
I felt right at home and had nothing to get over hopping in the NC for the first time after the NA for 2 years.
>some love in here for the NC at last
i prefer mine ('07) to my old NB ('00) in every way.
that said, having test driven an ND i'd take it over the two previous generations, except prices in bongland are ridiculous. never driven (or sat in) an NA so i can't compare that one.
>stay away from the power hardtop
no issues here
>except prices in bongland are ridiculous
It's called being a car that hasn't had any chance to age at all.
Our prices are great, the value of cars deprecate like mental and cars become considered obsolete a lot quicker, i.e. why you haven't been in an NA before and why NBs and NCs are way more common.
What kind of shit knob should I get for my ND? I was thinking of getting a Voodoo magnum like pic related.
I shift like a lazy fatass with two fingers for reference.
The oil pressure does sound a little low, but if you're using the factory sender/gauge you're not necessarily getting accurate information. First step is to put a real gauge on it. See if you can borrow one somewhere.
As for the idle, every time I've had that problem it's been a vacuum leak, but I've got a MAP setup so vacuum leaks are basically the same as opening the throttle.
Sorry about the late reply, I had passed out.
'94s still weigh 100-150 pounds more than NA6s, and the '94-'95 cars are down on power versus later NA8s. Not by a lot, but the weight difference isn't much either. I will say that every time they added weight to the NA/NB it came with an increase in stiffness and power.
pictured muh myats
to each their own I guess. I'd drive the fuck out of pic related.
I just slapped these circles on this morning. I think it looks great.
Fair enough, I love a lot of cars most people think are ugly: MR2 first gen, C4, and I even don't mind the Porsche Panamera.
For me I see almost every NA shape remade in the NB/NC. Even the hood oval, all the lights, the interior design of the dash of the NC is just like the 90-93 NAs.
I think it looks good, I see a lot of Porsche owners do this with older Porsches
Damn this looks clean sir. You've got the white and black working real well.
Ok I talked with my dad (who has a sponsorship with a supercharger manufacturer) and I can get a brand new lysholm pump basically for free. I have to actually pick the mx-5 first but it should be a fun project later on in the year.
Has anyone on here supercharged a mx-5 before and can give me some pointers?
>want to install Hard Dog roll bar soon
>no friends to help
>no garage to do it in
Should I buy these rays 57's or should I just buy tires for my rota grids (the rotas were super cheap three wheels for 150 but I still need tires). Street car so le broken wheels meme aside both sets weigh about 13lbs per wheel and are 15x7 with similar offsets. Going on a white NA6.
he wanted to design a modern lotus elan that you could drive every day. Basically a reliable 60's British roadster.
that's subjective, nobody knows what sound you will personally like the most
Yoichi Sato, who designed the FD RX-7, helped design the NB miata, and that's why it's the sexiest goddamn miata of any generation. Fite me irl 1v1
Whatever's 2.5-3" all the way to the back. There's a ton of options. Cold air intakes help.
You don't have to spend much, $500-$750 for headers/mid/muff though many people say even for an naturally aspirated miata, spending hundreds on exhaust is a waste, you're better off dumping that into suspension/tires or starting on your turbo setup.
My vote is for anything that uses individual throttle bodies.
By NB. Fuck the haters. NAs were fine up until 6+ months ago, now prices are literal rape. NB's are faster, stiffer, newer (less rust), not by much but enough.
Truth. NC's best to daily, esp if you don't care about muh popups or muh90's styling.
Power hard top isn't bad since you still get trunk space which not many other power retractable hard tops of other cars can boast. It adds 80lbs so you just have to consider weather you care about the added weight. For a simple daily that doesn't care about racing I say do it. Daily's all about less road noise and convenience anyway.
If you know what you're doing, like seriously, enough to source your own new/used parts on ebay/forums/local, then at least 2-2500. Even for a modest 180-200hp setup you'll want an upgraded rad, clutch, brakes, and many suggest fuel injectors.
This doesn't consider engine management (megasquirt), which is the real step 1, which runs you $500+ depending on the model.
If you don't know what you're doing, go with any of the FM setups + megasquirt. Begi + megasquirt if you want to wait a while. The fitment and customer service will be worth it (esp flying miata's) but expect to spend around 5k for the turbo setup alone.
Same old saying everywhere, reliability/speed/cheap, pick 2.
FI miata's are worth it though, it's no surprise that it's so commonly done. The engine bay was designed for it, the car when stock is thirsty for more power, and not many other cars have the aftermarket support for FI that miata's do.
Brb looking at miata's in my safe space
That's like a lot of money I don't really have.
Can you give me an advice what could add some extra power to engine and it's not really expensive ?
Mine is 97 with the 1.6 engine.
You say this but no one really turbo's immediately. It takes months for those who know what they're doing and for newbies it should take you 6+month to a year at the least because you should be A. Saving up and B. Researching and reading.
Staying n/a on the 1.6 won't give you a ton of overhead for power. Intake, exhaust, megasquirt, and tune won't give you more than 140-150hp and that's being generous.
After that you can go into engine work (cam/pistons/etc) which can get expensive very fast. The craziest n/a setups top out at 180s-190s.
If you're gonna want to make any power going naturally aspirated you're gonna want to swap to the 1.8 engine too. No replacement for displacement, even the .2 liters makes a difference.
If I had a 1.6 and had say $500 I'd go cai, exhaust, and put the rest in regular maintenance. A healthy car is a fast car.
You know what's free horsepower? Weight savings. You can rip out a ton of weight and with the 1.6 you can really feel it. Spare tire delete, carpet delete, center console delete, jackstand delete, AC delete, cruise/powersteering delete (if you have those) passenger seat delete.
You're never gonna chase down even minivans with the 1.6 and you shouldn't, it literally wasn't designed to be anything near even "kinda fast." It's "capable" in the corners and fun, even going slow. If you're disappointed in stock power and don't have the patience or the means to save up for a decent turbo set up then you should've bought a f-body. Turd gens are relatively cheap and common to come by, make ridiculous power numbers on stock internals, and regular spank newer and more expensive cars.
The engine swap is not really a bad idea, but still I got no mechanical skills so I'll have to pay for the work anyway.
What is "cai", I got like $500 and I might follow your steps if that's going to bring to life a few more horses.
Cold Air Intake. It will only give you 0-3 hp on a good day, if the odd are in your favor, and if you have a unicorn horn in your glove box. However, it will look neat, let your engine breath a bit easier, and will give you a tiny bit better exhaust note. I'd keep researching and asking, as there are tons of people like you with similar budgets, skills, and goals.
One of the greatest advantages miatas have over other cars is the forums. There's literally 4 gargantuan forums that will gladly (and not so gladly) help you with anything. Miata.net has been going on for probably almost as long as you've been alive, and is a good place to start, especially if you're new to miata modification in general.
This. NA 1.6's are so light that any sort of weight savings are felt in handling and power. Chuck the spare tire, jack, AC, powersteering, and passenger seat in the garage and you've cut out 50+ pounds already. If you're a landwhale you can stand to lose weight too. Not only does it add visual length to your penis, you'll be zoom zooming faster.
Agreed. It's something easy that can open the door to wrenching on the car though. You gotta start somewhere and you should. Stock miatas are good but the NA/NB platform is one of the easiest and cheapest to start wrenching on.
I pity the fool who starts on a 300zx twin turbo, MR2, anything euro (except old beetles)
IMHO true car ownership includes working on your ride, even if it's basic maintenance like oil changes, spark plugs, etc. Anything to help you bond with the car. /o/ used to be alot more about working on rides, even shitty ones (especially shitty ones actually) but now it's all highschool and college kids who got their mom's accord coupe or cruze or golf. And what can you do with modern cars that doesn't involve ripping out electronics to access things in cramped engine bays? Wheels/tires/coilovers, hence the stance generation.
have you guys seen this? $660 for 20 to 24 hp and 16 to 19 tq with just a tune. 166 hp at the wheels on an otherwise stock car.
>I'm assuming the standard car doesn't use and isn't mapped for 91 octane?
Sounds like a fuel mapping tweak and a timing advance to me. And for that kind of change done properly 20 hp is an expected result.
Finally got some snow the other day, friend and I took the miata out. Red NA is mine.
Thanks, I was going to do some mods and maybe a turbo down the line, but it's in almost perfect condition with 112k miles on it and I think now I'm just going to keep it stock. Might do something small with the exhaust, but I don't want to make it too loud or raspy at all. No winter tires on mine, but I'm not sure what he has on his.
It doesn't handle super well driving around town, if I had the money I would definitely buy some cheap wheels on craigslist, put winters on them and keep them around for whenever it does happen to snow.
Another mildly shitty picture of the miat from a while ago with another friend.
Nothing wrong with modding it, even aggressively, just as long as you don't haggard garage it or herrafrush it to hell. Nothing wrong with wanting to keeping it stock either.
Yeah I spent $435 for a set of new Michelin Xi2's on 14 inch steelies. Decent deal but I've seen barely used already mounted winter tire sets for much less.
Overkill? Probably. I barely daily it and historically around these parts it doesn't dump blizzard type snow more than a few times a year but when it does I'm glad to have em. Several hundred dollars for extra insurance so I can escape pig fat suv's on all seasons who don't know their limits is worth it for me. Then I can swap the summer stickies in a few months.
$435 isn't too bad at all, especially with wheels. I'll pick up a set next year for sure, I've never driven any car with winter tires but from what I've heard there's nothing better for safety when it gets too cold out.
Even if there's little to no snow, the freezing and near freezing temps just seize up the rubber compound of summer and even all season tires.
You'll be fine but yeah it's a worthwhile investment sometime since they can last 3-4 winter seasons.
My 1.6 with 140,000 miles and a cheap used turbo makes 220hp at the wheels. 1.6's are really good, they just have a little less ability to spool turbos up so the power seems to come on maybe 500-1000 rpm later. They rev out a little more which makes up for the slightly less power
1.6 turbos are great. I was talking about naturally aspirated 1.6's since the guy was asking how to make power on the cheap and not spend 2k+
220hp must be fun though. What clutch you running? Any fuel injection or engine work? Intercooler? Just curious
how much HP gain can I expect with headers, exhaust, and advanced timing for 91 octane fuel? the engine is a 1.8 (1997)
also what's the optimal degree BTDC for the 1.8 for 91 octane?
Congrats on succeeding in adulthood, and yes, living with your parents at your age is succeeding cause fuck renting at this stage in your life, that shit is expensive. Continue to be responsible and give yourself this present to enjoy.
You're young but time is still finite. Enjoy it while you can. The 6-9 month spent waiting is time you could be growing with the car, bonding, doing basic maintenance, just in time for summer. But yeah, pay it off asap.
Also watch this everyday.
Yes, adjust back coilovers to match fronts height, maybe get fenders rolled and put some medium sized spacers to make it a little more flush with arches, and finally find hardtop
All other things are about interior, engine, suspension e.t.c
Solid plan. Be sure to show off your progress on these threads, always nice to see well done NBs.
after all that I might not gain any hp? what about with a standalone ecu like a megasquirt + a good tune? surely a tune will make the most of any modifications done
and ya I've removed the spare, tools etc. nothing too drastic though. once summer comes along I'll go without the hardtop too.
There are some headers that show little to no hp gain, same with some exhaust setups (like CARB legal ones are already constricted) and if you botch the timing you don't get anything. Research, research, research.
Megasquirt+tune is better. Arguably similar price depending on what you get, and gives you tools to unlock more power later if you want to turbo/supercharge.
You can get 10-15 if you really dial in your tune and if you don't care about gas mileage. 0 hp gain if you screw up, which is hard to do, as even the base maps are fine. Even if you get next to no power gain you'll get smoother, more consistent power delivery, and that plus the know how and experience necessary for forced induction later, is well worth the time and effort IMO
There are no easy answers with B6ZE/BPs. The engineers did well with squeezing out what they could in naturally aspirated form. However the stock internals are robust enough to take decent turbos reliably, and the engine bay is basically designed for it, but one of the big reasons Mazda didn't throw in stock turbos was to keep costs down, an understandable decision.
Turbo/super is really the only way to go. Staying NA, you can make it to the 190's but you'll be spending more than turbo money and tweaking/tuning till you die.
Ugh don't remind me. At least it lives on to inspire other NBs
15x6.5 miata 5 spoke wheels on my 2, yay or nay?
How is a first gen Miata as a college car in a winter town? How is the gas mileage? My current car gets about 10 miles to the gallon and is not great for driving a 100 miles to and back to school.
How does /mx5/ feel about the new ND?
I'm in love with the way it looks and the only thing I'm not sold on is the lack of aftermarket support. There's nothing really substantial yet; no turbo kits, superchargers... I mean fuck, I'm having trouble finding more than one or two intake replacements. I mean, the car just came onto market so it'll probably be a while, but I'd still miss the sheer amount of aftermarket shit I can find for my 93.
Do you guys like it?
fuck yeah I like it. wait one year and come back to me. it's only been out like 5 months or something, patience
Most of the significant aftermarket stuff would be in development by this point. You can bet your balls that the aftermarket will soon burst though. Hell, plenty of body kits are already poking their heads out.
yeah 17 is way too low for an average, if you're getting 17 mpg something is broken.
R S W A T A N A B E
what about enkei rp01? I've been browsing craigslist for a set, I like the 5 spoke design. I think they come in 15x7
also why can't you get wats because rota makes a set of reps? you're worried people will just think they're fake?
I like the RP01, but at the same time I don't like them.
I don't like the idea of having wheels that a lot of companies make reps of. Everyone around here has shitty reps, and I can't stand it. I would never give my money to a company who steals other peoples designs, then recreates a cheaply made version of it. I don't want people to even think that I do. Can't think of how I should explain it, but I just don't want to be associated with the idiots that think it's okay to buy reps.
....but you're buying real wheels. you'd be able to tell people that they're real and stuff. Anyway what about SSR Longchamps?
Some Work Equip 02 would be pretty sick too. Basically any rare Japanese wheel looks great on a miata t b h
25 if it's stop and go and I'm revving it, 30 if it's highway and I'm driving conservative. Put some good winter tires and it should be great. Are there lots of hills? If there are and you can avoid them then it's even better.
I've been trying to find a set of old wheels, but it's kind of tough in the US. It's hard to find old wheels that are 4x100. Most I find are 4x114.3 Plus, I'd be paying like $1,600 for a set of wheels that are in fair condition. I'd need to buy the wheels, then have them shipped somewhere to be rebuilt to get them looking good again. I'd love to go that route, but the time and money makes me hesitant.
I REALLY want to buy a set of Star Road Glow Stars, but I've having a hard time pulling the trigger on them. They would cost me about $2,300 for a set. If I ever did something to damage them or anything like that, it would cost me about $600 for a new wheel.
that's really pricey though. call me cheap but about $200 a wheel is my limit
Just picked up this hardtop, sorry for the shitty picture that will probably post upside down. I would like to have it painted down the line but I can't afford it right now. My original plan was to plastidip it glossy black for the time being, but once I got it home and washed I kind of liked the mismatched colors.
Has anyone dipped a top before? From the pictures I've seen online I'm not super impressed. Should I leave it for a while?
[nospoilersono]Should I paint the wheels to match the top?[/spoiler]
I want that montego blue top! it'd match perfectly
>replaced crank angle sensor gasket to patch oil leak in October
>check oil today
>very low, dipstick mostly dry
>bottom of crank angel sensor wet
I even bought one of those Vitton seals to beat this shit
>MFW own an S2000.
>MFW have soft spot for white NAs.
>MFW I shouldn't be in this thread.
nope, actually had such a hard time getting the cunt back in with the vitton seal I put oil around it to help get it back in
>guess I've got brain problems.jpg
>mfw most miata drivers spend 1.5-2k on wheels
>mfw I'm not picky about jdm and get knock offs for 600 a set
I still might get jdm seats though. 2k on seats is gonna hurt.
>same face when I own an 1990 Miata but would love to drive and own an S2000
Love the 80s/90s look of the NA. Really like the Miata Daisies but mine were painted "steelie" black/grey by the original owner. It might be cheaper to find a stock silver set rather than have mine sandblasted/repainted.
Original owner also put on these awful "fender vent" decals and I have no clue how to get them off w/o damaging the car
I don't get all of these "stance"/Ricey MX5s. I just want mine to look like
Where do you live?
I wouldn't pay more than 3-4k for an NA, 4-6 for an NB, don't know about NCs.
Other important factors:
- Standard equipment like does is have factory LSD? 1.6 or 1.8? 5 or 6 speed? Etc
- Mileage. Good luck finding an NA with less than 80-90k miles, but you don't have to settle for one that has 150k+ on it either. Be patient, research, and shop around.
-Mods. They usually have mods, sometimes good, many times not. Mine had a Hard Dog roll bar and a cold air intake installed, and not much else which was a huge factor in my purchase since those would be things I would have bought anyway. Usually you actually get a good deal on modded miatas but the trick is to find one that is done well and tastefully. If it has an FM turbo setup done correctly then that's a plus vs a thrown together ebay kit installed by highschool kids.
All in all be patient and aggressive in researching and looking around, even out of state. I wanted an NB and waited more than a year for a decent one to popup. I looked at around 20 before one that was both a good deal and a decent car popped up. All others were priced too high or in bad shape.
Idaho. I didn't expect to find one with less than 90k. My ideal spot was around 120-130k for 3k.
I wish I had been able to jump on a deal a few months ago but I didn't have the money at the time. 70k miles for $3500 in what looked like great condition.
In stock form, no. Not even close. Not when it was new in 1989, not when the NB came out in 1999, not the NC's in 2007 or the NDs. While it also never really claimed to be "fast" in any generation, the lack of power is still one of the biggest pitfalls of the line, and many Miata fanboys will be the first to tell you.
Again in stock form. But slap a turbo or a supercharger, even a small one running 7 or 8 psi and you're now in the 170-180 hp range. Now your car is not "slow" but it isn't "fast" yet.
10 psi and up and you've got 200+ hp. Not only is your car legitimately "fast" but it handles like a killer, which was it's strength anyway.
Miata's are slow but that was to save on production costs. Boomers and other 50+ yr olds never wanted turbos anyway but Mazda knew what they had. They were begging us to add in turbos, I mean look all the space on the right side. So much room for activities.
Rocky mountain area is actually good for miata prices. Actual winters and country type towns means they're not as desirable. However you do get less stock to choose from, and the ones that have lived here will have more wear and tear and rust issues, as I'm sure you already know.
3k's gonna be tough, even for 120-130k miles. 2, even 1 year ago it was much easier but miata's prices have steadily risen for a while and will continue for years I think. Still, patience and research is important.
Able to go out of state? http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/2620503?ad_cid=8
The owner's done some work. Worth a call though to see what the actual mileage is at. You could also run the VIN, in fact I would always run the VIN on any used car, especially miatas.
>Able to go out of state
I could easily run out of state. From what I was checking I didn't see any in Utah. I'll probably give the guy a call later today and look into. That is surprising mileage.
I have a problem, I am just about to get my learners permit and I have loved miatas for years. It might sound weird to get a first car so young, but I have some money saved up and I have been driving since I was in 2nd grade (I live on a ranch, and I drive this really underpowered little truck thingy) My father knows I can drive well and is not opposed to me getting a car, but my mother on the other hand... I know how ridiculous this sounds, but I found an incredible deal on an extremely low mile 95 m edition which is my dream miata (bbs wheels, torsen differential, merlot mica). I cant possibly let this deal go, or I will never find one like it again. So bassically, how did you convince your parents to allow you to buy your first car?
I'm not incredibly stupid, I will get a mechanic to look at it first (a real one, not my sisters third cousins friend)
You don't. You can't "convince" your parents. Like you can't "convince" that girl to "like you"
All you can do is soften the blow. You need to
1. Get good grades. not that 3.0 weaksauce, 3.5 or nuthin
2. Get a job, any job. If you have one, keep it
3. Be a good kid. Do chores. Don't do drugs. Don't hang out with asshats. You probably are.
4. Don't stance the shit out of it. You know you want to you schmuck. You know what stance looks like to a parent? Heroin on wheels, meaning it looks dumb as hell, irresponsible, and only asshats with no future do it.
Other then that, do it. It's your money.
It is YOUR money right?
Feels man, feels.
About the decals on your Miats.. use a hair dryer (no pun intended) to heat up the area and soften the decal adhesive. Next, use fishing string and cutting motion to remove the decal from the car. Make sure to use enough needed heat from the hair dryer to keep the adhesive pliable. Finally, use some WD-40 or mineral spirits to remove any leftover adhesive afree the decal is removed. Have fun.
OP here, 1 i didn't buy it, 2 stance despicable, its like a joke that has gone on so long that people forgot it was a joke, and 3;
>I'll have you know I have 66.6 gpa, 2930939498 confirmed kill shots, wear a fedora...
and you can absolutely convince people through manipulation and dishonesty
I have Thatcher knob on my NA, it is amazing. Shorter throw, more comfortable and looking at the reflection of the sky with the top down is one of the best parts of driving it. Fingerprints and heat/cold is hardly an issue. Best upgrade ever.
As long as your parents are taking care of you, they will always tell you what to do, since they are the ones giving you money.
Get a job and don't be a pussy, one day you'll have to work anyways.
Do whatever the fuck you want, coke, weed, hookers but never ever let your parents find this out.
Most of your friends are actually not your friends, they just pretend to be and as the anon said, don't fucking hang out with assholes.
It got nothing to do with the car, but hanging out with fake friends is not what your parents would like for their son and overall they will just be like "Hey anon, gimme a ride to the club", and I'm not fucking joking. They will use you for the car once you have one. FUCK THEM, let them know you're not getting your life ruined cause of shits they are doing 24/7/365
Don't let your dream car get away from you. Ask your dad to help you out with money, he'll understand your passion and you don't need to listen to your mother all the time. Mine is getting crazy when I'm driving with 10 miles under the speed limit. UNDER THE FUCKING SPEED LIMIT. She'll be worried for you till her last breath, no matter for how long you're a driver and how many cars you had.
And one last thing anon. Don't go raceboy never ever. Don't drive fast in order to impress random bitches you don't even know. Love your parents and respect them, everything they are doing for your might look as a bad a decision at the moment, but in long term it's good for you. I'm not that one guy who acts like a mother, but as I've walked this path, I've made these mistakes.
If you listen to me now, you will be thankful to me one day.
Good luck with the car anon, you deserve it, if you want it that hard.
I read that as tire measurements. These would be so dank
All good advice. Hopefully these kids listen. It's what makes /mx5/ threads awesome. And awesome I mean gay. We're all gay. for each other. No homo.
I apologize for the shit quality...it is dark out on the east coast.
Wheels look like this: http://i42.tinypic.com/kbc9c9.jpg
Decal fender vents look like the set on the upper left hand side: http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee19/whitejeep1989/Ford/D9CBC2A4-C03B-4E53-9332-56727CEDC5C6-255-000000350A9F4081_zps6e9111e3.jpg
I'm actually all for miatas pushing the envelope but that is so sad.
Get something decent like these simpson design louvres. Sadly that company is no more.
They made my doors sticky as hell. Like way more than what other people are saying. I also have to slam my doors pretty much to get them to close.
Driving wise it's good. Not earth shattering like many other reviews but they do a good job.
I did the slamming and tightening process outlined in revlimiter's site but so far the sticky door syndrome make me give these garage star bushings 4/10.
I literally just installed these last last month though. I'm hoping my 4/10 rating to bump up to a 6 or 7/10 over time. I'm fine with slamming the doors hundreds of times but I expect the break in period to be shorter and less brutal.
Gorgeous miata, sexy as hell pic. 9/10
Super simple and understated. The windshield sticker I could do without, but thats on you. Still love it though.
Its great how much the hard top can change the look of a car.
Having a tough time selling my Works. Should I just spend the money and have them rebuilt? It would be about $1,000 for a full refinish with custom made lips that are 1" wider.
Believe me, I wish I could get rid of them easily, but everyone in my area would rather buy knock offs. Tried posting on /o/ a few times hoping there would be more people on here who would spend the extra money to buy a real set of wheels.
The wheels would have to be put on a lathe to have the welds split, have the faces stripped down to bare metal to have the windows repainted and the faces polished, the hardware would have to be refinished, and I'd need to have custom lips made because Work doesn't sell parts for their wheels. Then it would all have to be reassembled.
Wish I had done more research before I bought them. Still got a decent deal on them, but I had no idea I couldn't buy parts for them and rebuild them myself.
6'2" here. Getting in is a bit tricky because of my long legs, but once I sit I feel really comfortable. Head room sucks with a hardtop on, expect to hit the top when going over bumps.