So my current summer car is dying.
I can't decide if my next one should be a Z32 TT or a C5 base (Z06 is a bit pricey still and don't like the FRC look)
For price, I put them about equal. Even though I can get a Z32 TT for $5k less than the C5, I expect to put at least that much in to increase the power to 400whp and other maintenance.
So /o/, what would you pick?
Feel free to suggest other cars in the price range
>>17368511
what's your current car?
I love the 300ZX due to Mid Night but the Corvette.
It'll be a lot easier to work on.
>>17368518
a Z32 NA, bought it super cheap because the exterior is fucked (Huge dents all over one side, like it hit a guard rail fast, but frame is good)
It's been good for 2 years, but previous owners negligence has finally caught up to the engine. blown valve due to a long time vac leak
If I get the Z32 TT, I'd take any of the good parts and transfer them
>Bosch fuel injection
>idle has been high since I got the car
>cold start injector fuel line disconnected
>idle air control valve and module test good, unplugging valve results in significant idle change
>throttle position switch tests good
>throttle plate resting position tests in spec with feeler gauge
>cleaned everything, replaced all top end gaskets and seals, including cylinder head
>still wandering, high, slightly rough idle
>runs rich as fuck
Here's the kicker. If I disconnect the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator and plug the hole with my thumb, the idle speed doesn't change at all. Does this mean that my fuel pressure regulator is toasted?
Thoughts?
>>17368459
>>idle has been high since I got the car
Could be the throttle valve instead.
>cold start injector fuel line disconnected
Connect it again?
>disconnecting idle sensor results in worse idle
WOW WHO WOULD HAVE EVER THOUGHT OF THAT
>still rough idle, runs rich
Holy shit what makes you think that connecting or disconnecting sensors and air lines will fix this? do an ECU tune and fix this crap for fucks sake. This has nothing to do with the injectors. This has to do with your inability to find the simplest solution
>>17368530
>Could be the throttle valve instead.
The throttle body? I cleaned the living shit out of it. Mechanical throttle body, so there's no magic there.
>Connect it again?
The point is that it isn't the cold start injector that's stuck open making it run rich. Eliminating that as a cause.
>WHO WOULD HAVE EVER THOUGHT OF THAT
It's not like I leave it disconnected. The fact that it gets worse when I disconnect it means that it's actually doing something while it is connected. Eliminating that as a cause.
>disconnecting sensors
I haven't disconnected any sensors. Nowhere did I say that I disconnected any sensors. I tested the throttle switch with a multimeter and it works.
>do an ECU tune
...what does that even mean? The car is from 1984. I've reset the ECU more than once by disconnecting the battery and letting it sit. If I have a mechanical failure somewhere, I can mess with the ECU all day and it won't fix shit.
>nothing to do with injectors
If my injector seals were leaking, that would mean a vacuum leak, which would have everything to do with this. If my injectors were stuck open, that would make it run rich, which has everything to do with this. The only other thing I haven't done is pull off the fuel rail and check for this.
>inability to find the simplest solution
Fuck me, right? Chill.
>>17368622
>Mechanical throttle body, so there's no magic there.
Could be the idle control.
What regulats RPM is not the fuel injection, is the air entering the car. Bear that in mind.
>...what does that even mean? The car is from 1984. I've reset the ECU more than once by disconnecting the battery and letting it sit. If I have a mechanical failure somewhere, I can mess with the ECU all day and it won't fix shit.
So the ECU is reset and the same issue is still there? find out if the ECU reset also affects fuel injectors. If they do, you eliminate the cause.
Can you check the fuel pressure? maybe the fuel pump gone bad, or the fuel tank is rotten, or something wont let the fuel run at a good pressure.
Is this the first Audi that's actually fun?
>non-pigfat engine over front axle
>fat tires in the front, skinny tires in the back
>AWD that isn't front biased at all times
It's the only car they make that doesn't understeer like a pig and can powerslide when you give it throttle.
Well, the Audi Coupe Quattro was fun, so no.
An R8 is probably fun in the kind of way a supercar is fun, maybe an RS6 Avant too
Besides that, it might be, but it might just be a four door TT. The last audi I drove was a 2016 or so S4 and even at it's near limit it just wasn't very fun.
They're all pretty serious cars, technically quick but I'd take a comparable BMW over most of them when it comes to new cars.
>>17368290
Anyone would take a BMW over a VAG product desu...however, if I didn't have to pick either one, like I had a third option...I'd take it like a rat out of a viaduct...
I'm thinking about buying a B5 S4. Should I? Is it not fun?
Does /o/ approve of the Nissan Maxima?
>>17368219
Ew, I'd rather drive a hyundai
>>17368219
>Post Renault Nissan
Unironically end your life
>>17368286
what?
I had a bike issue today, bros. I'll greentext it.
>be riding my '75 Honda CB550 today
>had been riding for about 35-40 minutes prior
>going 55mph down the road
>suddenly, the engine gets really jerky
>loss of power/return to power variations lasting about 3-4 seconds
>jerking forward and back while riding
>pull in clutch
>motor dies
>coast into gas station (thank god)
>park, take a piss
>come out, bike starts right up and makes it all the way back home (30-45 minutes of combined highway and city riding)
>no further problems for the rest of the day
This has happened before. The bike will lurch a few times and then die when i pull in the clutch, but it starts right back up with no problem and works fine thereafter.
Any idea what's causing this? Sudden loss of oil pressure? Over-heating? It doesn't happen every time i ride, but it still pisses me off.
>pic related
clean the carbs
>>17368196
The carbs were JUST completely rebuilt 1000 miles ago by a professional mechanic. All new floats, gaskets, the whole nine yards.
Maybe rust in the fuel tank blocking my fuel lines?
shameless self bump
Isn't a grand coupe just a sedan?
"no"
How many doors does it have?
"yes"
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Japanese gf edition:
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Motorcycle ergonomics simulator:
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Check your helmets score:
>http://www.crash.org.au/
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Noob? Git gud:
>>16832611
Webs with sound:
>>>/wsg/1731263
Previously on /dbt/:
>>17365333
>tfw no Jap scrap gf
>>17367873
>she will never hayabusa my katana
>>17367892
>tfw u had qt japscrap gf and fukt it up
At least I can rekt some short girl pucci
>Europe
>manual econoboxes
>auto performance cars
>America
>auto econoboxes
>manual performance cars
Who was in the wrong here?
>japan
>auto everything
>>17367752
Well I prefer my econobox to be manual so my commute is more fun and I have something to do in traffic
I also prefer my z to be manual so I can stay off boost easier and bang gears on the touge
Both are wrong I guess
>>17367752
I think the people driving in traffic are wrong because it will always suck.
That said, who cares? a clutch pedal doesn't make your dick bigger. also probably america gets it right, if you are going to have to work a clutch, better yet it be on a performance car.
>Rev to 3k
>Dump the clutch
>Rev up to 8k
>Go like BAM BAM BAM
>Drop it in D for max respect
>rev to 1.5k
>slowly release the clutch until the bite point
>hit the plus arrow perfectly at 1700
How come they can't make luxury cars?
They do
>>17367228
Because no matter how good of a car they make, even if it truly outclasses a krautwagon in every way, faggots like you will still shit on it purely because it's American.
Hey /o/, anon here. Bought an 08 F250 turbo diesel, completely stock. I changed the fuel filters and oil filter as well as the oil, and am currently looking to delete either the egr or the dpf. Which delete should I do first and what will it cost me? Any advice is helpful.
>>17367134
20k
The dpf. The egr should be relatively easy. Might as well do both at the same time because you need the ECU adjusted after.
>>17367143
I could do it for 17.5k
>be me at Pick N Pull
>see this in my donor truck
>it's only $20
>shadilay
*vigorous fedora tipping intensifies*
>>17367101
Careful with those used turbos OP, they're ticking timebombs
>>17367106
I'm honestly more worried about it being off an Australian version of my truck (as featured in the pic). I'm concerned that I'll end up having to turn the bolts upside down to get them out, then use an adapter and a koala wrench to get it installed.
>>17367106
that's an alternator
Hi, /o/. First post here, and I'm hoping I'll be able to learn a lot from you guys.
Firstly, I know *nothing* about cars; only real repairs I've done are replacing an alternator and disc+drum brakes on my 97 Saturn SC2. But I've been wanting to get a "new" ride that I can learn to maintain myself. I don't need or want anything fancy or fast, and I have an undying fondness for the boxy designs of late80s/early90s cars. I want to get something like a 90-92 Corolla (my pick from the image in the pinned post) and pamper it. Would also consider the 87 Corolla with that AE86 chassis, or pretty much anything from that era with a cool, boxy design.
I'm flying totally blind here, so basically I'm going to ask a scattershot of noob questions and anyone who's willing can just vomit knowledge onto me.
1. The pined post here recommends the 90-07 Corolla. Why not the 87? Would it also be a good choice if I found one in decent condition (ignoring the anime tax), or are there specific qualities that make the 90+ models better? Not looking to get a replica car; I just like the history of that chassis.
2. How bad are popup headlights, really? I love how they look, but I don't know how difficult they are to work on when/if I have a problem. Can I keep spare parts in my trunk and repair them quickly? Can popups be added to a car that doesn't have them?
3. If I get an old car like the ones I've been talking about and end up loving it enough to drop an engine into it, what other prohibitively expensive replacements might be needed before it's off-the-lot reliable? Is that level of reliability even achievable in a 30-year-old car?
4. I'm under the impression that if I have a popular model like a Corolla, I'll be able to get parts for a long time even though it's old. Is this accurate? What should I keep in mind about part scarcity in the future?
I think that's enough for now. I'm trying to get serious about being selectively competent, so I'll be around.
Thanks in advance!
>>17366976
Just get a clean 5k civic pham
>>17366984
fpbp
>>17366984
I've looked at a few Civics. I don't dislike their look, though even I know about the "everyone's got one" cliche. hahaha Not ideal for that reason, but wouldn't rule one out. Especially as a transitional car while I look for something permanent.
What exactly do you mean by "clean" and "5k"? (Seriously, Paris Hilton probably knows more auto jargon than I do.)
REV UP YOUR ENGINES
*electric engine hissing*
>>17366936
>getting a mercedes
>ever
>when you rev match and don't even feel the downshift
>when you pay jose to fill your tank with 91 premium
>>17366794
do you guys rev match perfectly everytime? i think i hit my downshifts only like 6/10 times, depending on the gear. 4th to 3rd is pretty much always perfect, but my second gear is so short that it's tough to go from 3rd to 2nd since the blip is so large
>>17366821
Depends.. speed and where I am matters.