almost pulled the trigger on $30 vinyl protection tape until I saw the thickness of 0.015mm, literally the same as duct tape thickness. Apart from aesthetics, is there a difference? Reapplying it is not an issue, going through 10 rolls of duct tape equals to two strips of protective tape in terms of price. Not on a mtb, just a gravel grinder.
>>918516 Assuming you're using it for downtube/chainstay protection, duct tape will get torn apart by a chain or gravel, while an equally thin sheet of vinyl will last pretty near the life of your frame. If you're really cheap, you could probably find a thin vinyl sheet without too much trouble, cut it to the desired shape, and apply your own adhesive.
>>918520 I have a home made inner tube chainstay protector held together with electrical tape. Do I really need protection if my frame is titanium? I don't have paint to chip, that's why I don't feel like investing too much in it. Would gravel cause damage to the ti if I were to have no protection?
>>918519 >mfw that's me I need to carry that shit with me when I go inside places so I can't just put it in panniers. I've also been too lazy to get a milkcrate or something that I could put my bag into while I'm riding.
Yeah I've been thinking about that too, especially with all the stuff going on in the bike industry at the moment, but I figured that I will just say the same next year, and then I might aswell just go ahead and get one now.
I'll be replacing some parts along the way, among those a new crankset. I didnt know the Omega was that stupid though.
current setup: 50/34 cranks, 12-25 8-speed cassette, claris shifters
So the 34-25 isn't low enough bottom gear when plowing through snow up hills, I'm not strong enough to pedal seated in said conditions and standing up just means wheelspin. Also I'm not fast enough to push 50-12, with winter tyres at least.
I'm looking at cassettes with bigger sprockets, but they often come with 11 tooth too which is completely useless for me. Is it possible to buy a 11-32 and use the 12 from my current cassette to replace the 11?
Any other tips for picking the cassette (and chain?) would be appreciated too.
Is it better to get a new entry level cheap brand bike or a more well known brand that's around 5 years old for the same price?
For example: https://www.reidcycles.com.au/2015-osprey-road-bike.html I wouldn't be happy with that cassette though desu. I want 32T big cog or at least a derailleur that is compatible with one. 8 speed cassette is not the best either.
Plenty of second hand bikes for around that price range. Most seem to be better equipped. Mostly trek and giant brand.
I want to get into bike camping or maybe minor touring. Multi-day trips. Currently I just have a road bike that is not rack compatible but I don't want to go buy a touring bike if I don't know if I'll enjoy it.
I was thinking of just buying pic related. Any tips for these kinds of trips? Are MRES effective? I would need to carry light. I'm thinking just a few MREs change of clothes and a sleeping bag. Is this possible on just a road bike?
>>918925 Yeah any large saddle bag or handlebar bag will do if you're staying in hostels. If you're camping you'll need a larger pannier for the tent. A bivvy bag is an option but if you're staying out a tent will be many times cheaper and more comfortable.
1)i'd like a bike that would get me from point a to point b with little maintenance(i fucked up that word didnt i) and my budget is 200 euro-ish( can go more if needed ofc). What are my best options? 2) winters get pretty rough here and our garage isnt heated or any fancy shit like that. How do i care for my bike in the winter? 3) speaking about winter, is there any special tyres for winter that would allow me to ride muh bike without going sideways all the time? 4) do i need special gear or clothing if i plan on driving quite a bit around, or is it absolutely optional?
thanks to whoever answers these. if you need to know where i come from to pick tvhe bike, I live in Lithuania lol.
>>918948 Do you have decathlons in your neck of the woods? If so, go there and talk to the staff. If not buy a cheap Dutch bike or something. Just keep the moving parts lubed and wash it after riding through road salt.
>>918948 >1)i'd like a bike that would get me from point a to point b with little maintenance(i fucked up that word didnt i) and my budget is 200 euro-ish( can go more if needed ofc). What are my best options? Depends on distance, a single speed with flat bars would be ok for trips of a few km at a time, you'd want drop bars and gears (internally geared hub if you want lower maintenance) for longer distance and hills. You're not getting shit for 200 euros >2) winters get pretty rough here and our garage isnt heated or any fancy shit like that. How do i care for my bike in the winter? The only thing you need to worry about is salt. Clean off the salt, and keep everything greased and lubed. >3) speaking about winter, is there any special tyres for winter that would allow me to ride muh bike without going sideways all the time? Yes, they are called studded tires, schwalbe and nokian make very good ones. They are bigger than your average road tire so you need a bike with decent clearance (cross bike for example or rigid MTB) >4) do i need special gear or clothing if i plan on driving quite a bit around, or is it absolutely optional? It really helps with comfort if you're spending a lot of time on the bike, your definition of "a lot" may be different from mine, but if it's more than 8-10 hours of riding per week I would seriously consider it
>>919090 10spd is even narrower than 9spd, because drugs, so it'll work just fine froma technical point of view. Non-index shifting stopped being funny a long time ago though, so i can't see why you'd want to trade indexing for an extra gear.
Also, Shimano road 9spd and 10spd use the same read derailleur geometry, so you could get an indexed 10spd road shifter and get ten indexed gears.
You might need a spacer to fit the 10spd cassette properly on your 9spd hub.
>>919104 Bike-specific lobster gloves leave your good fingers free and your shitty fingers together in the same claw. They also have padding in just the right spot for long-haul comfort, and they are reinforced in such a way that the typical wear and tear you'd have from riding with them on drop bars and using brifters won't cause premature failure
>>919229 >is 89kg fat? 4 pounds short of a clyde, so almost but not quite.
>What's wrong with overdrive? is it a compatibility issue with aftermarket parts or something? Yes, with no meaningful gain. There wasn't even a meaningful gain going from 26mm to 31.8mm handlebars on road bikes, it just streamlined stem production, which is why moving to 35mm bars is retarded just like 1 1/4" steerers on road bikes.
>Also what hole do you live in that you can't at least order a propel? You can't order an alloy propel in most first world countries.
>>919311 Depends on how you ride: clipless pedals make it easier to keep your feet on the pedals when you spin the cranks at higher cadences and when riding out of the saddle. If you're not sure you'd benefit, try straps/toe cage and strap first - much cheaper and won't require compatible shoes (you still need something with a stiff sole though).
>>918721 this a probably good place to start, I'd also recomend making sure the components in the drive train are tight (eg. casset, rear derelleur hanger, quick release skewer, etc) this was known at the shop i worked at as a safety check
>>919402 no, wd-40 has an endocrine disruptor in it called PCBs that cause higher rates of skin, liver, and brain cancers, ie it's toxic . I don't know baout pb blaster but I'd do some research before assuming it isn't toxic
>>919089 wool liners and either neoprene gloves or some work gloves, depending on wettness. Ski gloves for when shit gets real. But this winter has been so mild that it's fucking disgusting. Not even Feb. and it's already in the 50s out. Fuck this shit.
>>919386 straps are pretty useless unless you really cinch them in like a tarck superstar. which sucks dick for riding in the city. go clipless or straight up plattys imo.
>>919527 >I haven't even been taking good care of it. Do chains start to wear exponentially? I don't know about others, but my experience was yes. When I got a chain tool, I measured, seemed good. Measured again with fewer miles than new to before I measured, suddenly 0.5. I would keep an eye on it, or swap chains if you want to do chain rotations.
>>919541 Newer road bikes, and especially carbon ones are not made with any consideration for racks, although there are various alternative mounting options (seat post, wrap around stays) it's probably not recommended.
I think a lot of older bikes from the 80s and 70s have built in provisions for racks.
For more modern bikes you might be interested in looking at touring/gravel/adventure/cyclocross.
>>918689 Actually I found some 12-32 and 13-32 cassettes that don't need any modification. Next question is; if I buy one and put it on, what do I need to do about my chain and derailleur to make it actually work? Also, if I need to entirely replace the chain too, could I use it again if I decide to go back to the 12-25 cassette?
I can't, I've tried. I've been riding for fourteen years and I've always been aggressive, maybe I've just been too lucky over the years. It's stupid how I ride, especially in Arizona where there's a bunch of people uninsured, last year though I got hit on a cross walk while a guy was turning right, it's dangerous either way out here. By the way, the asshole drove off.
>>919662 Defensive cager detected Maybe you should look up from your phone sometimes >>919661 I've been riding in NYC for 15 years, I occasionally think about getting one but the way I see it you need at least two and the kind of accidents it's good for, the only thing it helps is for the next of kin to get more damages in the civil suit, since cage murder is not technically against the law
>>919676 You don't see a problem with massive numbers of entitled motorists who consistently put other peoples' lives in danger? You literally think people who film these people are the bigger problem?
>>919690 we all know they go out looking for trouble and pulling passive aggressive bullshit until they finally get some sort of reaction and appease their need for attention. They are scum of the earth.
>>919693 >>919676 >I'm not a cager >I'm just acting like a defensive cager You sound like the pedos on /g/ >hurr it's EPHEBOPHILE I'm not actually a sick fuck This is literally you, vile murderous cager.
>>919701 Apparently you are delusional enough to believe that inadvertently making a recording of attempted vehicular homicide is a violation of the cager's personal privacy, which says enough, really.
>>919701 >drivers are all murderous psychopaths and all cyclists can do no wrong. YES!,,, and,, yes. ,the caris inherently DEATH!, ,,sociotys , ignore the grisly slaughter,,, thats just the Extraction process!, now lets refine the POISON, dummp the most toxic portion where it can kill the most., sell the resto Cagers! HUFFING TIME!, , Hitler, loved,, the Killtruck.
>>919701 >dont own car sorry to Ragon you. ,(HUG),, just worryed about neighbors,, so many have a Pyramid of drugstacked onover time.,, drugs totreat drugs., i NEED MORE DRUGS! FASTER! FASSSSTER!!! ,,,wwWWWWWOSH! SLAP!, ,tahks, i needed that.
I'm putting together a spare wheel for my indoor trainer and I'm trying to make sure i have everything that makes this shit up. I'm new as fuck and trying to figure this shit out as i go along. This is what i have so far:
>>918721 The only reason i can think of for adjusting the rear mech screws in that case is if the derailleur is hitting the spokes in low gear due to lateral play in the chain from rough cleaning (Unlikely.)
Clean everything and check that the rear mech is aligned while in the lowest gear, but I'd check the chain first; you'd be surprised how much play the chain can get after a really good clean.
>>919774 That's an americanism. Why would you ever need that low gearing on a road bike? Loaded touring, yes, but road no. If you're going alp climbing you're going to have a cassette specialy bought for that.
I'm a fat fred, and 39/25 is more than low enough for me on the roadie. Even in steep hills and over bridges. I have, however, cut at the other end; running a 13-25 cassette at the moment.
Selling road bikes with these wide spaced cassettes always seemed like the daftest idea to me. 11-25 is already pretty wide.
It wasn't long ago the proverbial tenspeeds had 14-23 freewheels, and grampa liked it that way!
My road bike has trouble shifting into the big ring, usually about 50% of the shifts I do actually make it over, if not I have to slam the lever and hold it to make sure it gets over. Also, when i'm shifting into the small ring, there's like a 50% chance that the chain will pop off onto the left of the small ring and fall down hitting the inner frame of the crank set. Since this is a new bike, I took it to the LBS and they readjusted my limit screws and tension, but the problem is still coming back. I've tried fiddeling with the barrel adjuster on the left lever, but the more tension I add, it doesn't seem to make any difference, all the way down to where I can't turn it anymore. Also, whenever I try to move the high limit screw counter clockwise, it doesn't seem to move the derailleur any. I'm fed up and I just want to ride smoothly without having to stop and fix my popped chain every shift and stop jamming my big ring lever too.
>>919846 The limiter screw shouldn't move the derailleur any. It just sets the _limit_.
Screw the barrel adjuster all the way in, shift to the little ring, loosen the cable on the derailleur, pull the cable taut with you fingers while clamping it back down - tightly.
Screw out the barrel adjuster untill it behaves. You can screw in the lower limiter screw untill you stop having chain drops, or start having chain rub. In case you still drop chains on occation (and you might) there are chain devices to prevent it. They cost almost nothing.
>>919852 I'm swefag, but no, this town is nothing resembling flat. But no, i don't do any "real" climbing, and neither will 99.5% of any riders buying a road bike; shipping with Croix de fer-level cassette spreads - and compact cranks to boot - remains retarded.
>>919853 >But no, i don't do any "real" climbing, and neither will 99.5% of any riders buying a road bike; shipping with Croix de fer-level cassette spreads - and compact cranks to boot - remains retarded. Bike shouldn't come with drops because 99.5% of people won't use them 99.5% of the time.
>>919854 Gear spacing is not even comparable, you idiot. It's not as if you lose anything by having a drop that you rarely if ever use, but in order to have the super low gears you have to move the gears you do have further a part. That means the gears you _do_ use on a typical ride is going to be fewer.
That's why you change cassettes if you are going touring, or climbing, or time trialing. That's why cassettes are easily exchangable.
>>919862 >cant get erection >buy saddle with hole in it >pressure is now on my sitbones and not my perineum >ready to fuck bitches >everyone notices it hurts when i sit down >girls think im gay and take it up the butt Being cyclist is eternal suffering.
>>919849 >Maybe it's an American thing? Not the guy you're responding to, but no, not necessarily.
I agree with some of the previous anons: there definitely are differences in road etiquette from place to place, but the experience of how friendly/dangerous drivers are in relation to cyclists is pretty subjective, short of actual abuse (being hit, yelled at, coal rolling, etc.) it's pretty hard to tell what someone in a car is thinking; the folks who obsessively upload youtube videos of 'bad behavior' tend to be hypersensitive imho.
>>919867 >>919725 Frankly I think you're over-complicating things - just get the trainer tire and put it on your existing wheel, it will only take a few minutes to swap the tire onto the bike when it's time to use the trainer. If you really, really have to have a spare wheel, then yes what you've picked out already is correct. As for tools you'll need, you shouldn't need anything other than a pump to inflate the tube, a cassette lockring tool to install the cassette on the wheel, and some kind of wrench to turn the latter.
>>919863 Or perhaps you didn't get my point. Are there two of you this dense, or are you samefag?
I'm no stranger to gear calculators, and I'd say your chart proves my point; compact with a 12-28 very roughly equals a 13-34(!) range on standard.
That's an absolutely _enormous_ gear range that is beyond ridiculous for anything resembling "normal" road riding.
You'll also see that your lowest gear on a compact 11-28 setup is about 14km/h - at a cadence of fucking 90! That is some epic fucking climbing going on, there. See what I was getting at previously with the CdF reference?
Now, the whole point of standard cranks and no tiny cogs is you get tighter grouping for what gears you have. I do not want many redundant gears on the high end any more than I do on the low end.
With your compact 11-28, vs my standard 13-25, the top- and bottom speed at c90 look like this:
Compact: 13.8-47.4 Standard: 17.7 -46.3
So, assuming we never spin like there is no fucking tomorrow to get up to 14km/h, I get far more usable gears in the range we actualy bike in. You "lose" roughly four gears within that usable range; que effective 7spd Megarange setup.
>>919230 >There wasn't even a meaningful gain going from 26mm to 31.8mm handlebars on road bikes Man, you understand that was made to standarize the stems right? I can't find a good stem for a 26mm handlebar. But your point is correct, 35mm on road bikes? Unless it's gonna be the new industry standard? There's no logic.
>>919876 Yes, but screwing it in that far would also be felt at the shifter as a force preventing you to shift. If you're the anon who can't shift, your problem is more likely (at least partly) lack of cable tension.
But to be doubly sure you can unscrew the higher limiter all the way and only screw it in when you have everything working. Screw it in until you can just see it nudge the FD inward, and then back out half a turn.
>>919880 >doesn't get it. Different people have different gearing needs and there's practically no disadvantage in riding around with a few extra gears that rarely get used. Also, a lot of riders don't really understand how to shift effectively and aren't likely to learn - adding more useful gear combinations to the rear enhances their experience.
You can argue all day that there's no benefit to having 'more than X-number-of-gears if you know how to use them' (and technically you'd be right in most cases), but for the average rider it's generally true that having more gearing options available is preferable to having fewer.
>>919891 Yes, I'm sure there are loads of beginners out there spinning their asses of to barely get up to jogging speed. Or, you know, you can't admit that as a factory choice of cassette the manufacturer was quite right choosing a 12-25 instead of an 11-28.
Perhaps the manufacturers realy does have a clue what a first buyer might be better served by?
I got a fatbike a while ago. It was snowing today so I decided to ride it. I pushed myself pretty hard and when I got off my bike my vision started to change with whites taking on a purple-red-ish tint. Has anyone experienced this before and does anyone know why this happened?
>>919880 >You'll also see that your lowest gear on a compact 11-28 setup is about 14km/h - at a cadence of fucking 90! That's less than 4% grade using the default values on bike calculator at 150w.
>Now, the whole point of standard cranks and no tiny cogs is you get tighter grouping for what gears you have. >I do not want many redundant gears on the high end any more than I do on the low end. You're just going to get redundant close gears.
>I get far more usable gears in the range we actualy bike in. No you don't. You get get the same close clustering in both rings.
>You "lose" roughly four gears within that usable range; que effective 7spd Megarange setup. That's a completely unsubstantiated claim.
>>919881 >There wasn't even a meaningful gain going from 26mm to 31.8mm handlebars on road bikes, it just streamlined stem production Jesus Christ, why would you do a partial quote, and omit the following 5 words that said exactly what you just said. Are you a retard?
>>919898 Were you wearing sunglasses or goggles? If you weren't, and the color change went away after a few minutes, the problem was you were starting at bright, white snow for too long and were dealing with glare and afterimage.
If the tint in your vision doesn't go away, then you need to see a doctor ASAP because a hemorrhage in the eyeball could be the symptom of a bigger health problem.
>buy secondhand forks on ebay >guy lied about the steerer tube length >decide to live with it since it was such a good deal >back is killing me due to leaning so far forward >buy a riser stem >it's matte and has words on the side so looks retarded
at least my riding position is back to normal but now i have to buy a can of spraypaint to fix this shit
Why is it that when in the big chain ring and I turn the high limit screw to adjust the dérailleur position, it doesn't move it at all, not in or out? The screw doesn't appear to be touching the tab that makes the dérailleur physically move until I screw it all the way in. The bike is new so there's no reason for the screws not to be long enough or anything like that
>>919953 See, this is the problem, you refuse to follow the directions in the videos word for word, and you refuse to think critically about the problem, and instead you just want to complain to us about how it doesn't work the way you think it should work.
>>919954 These questions arose because I did the specified steps in the videos and my problems have still persisted. Thought I could gain a little insight as to how any why these problems are happening, being in the bike questions thread. I'll look for help somewhere else I guess, thank you anyway
>>919965 Yes. When adjusting the outer limits, I don't fully understand how to visually sight the gap I'm supposed to be seeing when making the adjustments to the high limit screw. It doesn't seem to lessen or widen the gap between the cage and chain. Am I doing something wrong?
>>919970 I'm watching GCN's front indexing video. He turns the high limit screw clockwise and counterclockwise, and it moves the dérailleurs to lessen or widen the gap between the cage and chain. When I do it, nothing happens. I've done all the previous steps in the video
>>919972 In the first minute he literally explains the purpose of the limit screws, quite graphically. You are literally being a moron and not following the steps, and I don't want to spoonfeed you just so you ask retard questions because you can't follow directions.
>>919974 >>919974 My apologies for the hostility of this guy. I dont think he fully understands what youre asking, hence him not offering anything worthwile except insults. Have you tried keeping pressure on the lever while making the adjustment, or pulling the inner cable by hand? If the derailleur is all the way out, and you're hitting the upper limit screw, the shifting cable will be holding it there.
>>919886 Clean my chain with 2 rounds of degreaser then hot water with dish soap then hot water, dry between each round with a fresh microfiber shop rag, and reapply lube after it's dried. Let lube dry for an hour, wipe down with shop rag, lube again, let dry for another hour, and wipe again.
Remove the brake pads and lap the surfaces with a set of DMT diamond plates (500, 1k, 2k, then 4k) and clean each disc rotor with 95% reagant ethanol, then air dry. Reinstall pads.
The rest of the bike can go fuck itself though especially mud on the frame
>>919982 That's fine, because I'm not your imaginary foamer boogeyman. The guy is literally a retard who refuses to follow the directions in the GCN video he claims he watched, and is skipping steps. The video fucking explains what the limit screws do in the first minute, and this guy can't figure it out because he skipped to half way through the video.
>>919980 >4k brake pads I kekd, also enjoy your embedded diamond grit
>>919979 I had the same problem once, and I believe the video didn't go into enough detail to fully understand why it was happening until I looked it up on park tools or something.
Point is, the guy now knows what's wrong, learned something, and can get on to riding his bike. I do believe in some tinkering and figuring shit out for yourself, but we've all been new once. Why stand as an obstacle to someone trying to get into this hobby?
You're the kind of elitist snobs I laugh at and try to stay away from when I bike. Please wear a trip so I can filter you.
>>919989 > I believe the video didn't go into enough detail to fully understand why it was happening I gave him a Socratic answer, and his response showed that he both didn't follow directions, and chose not to put any critical thought to the matter. He just wants spoonfeeding.
>>919995 He asked why the limit screw doesn't move the cage, and I asked him to consider what causes the cage to move. Then he made it clear he wasn't actually following instructions, and he was just assuming what he thought a limit screw should do and complaining it wasn't behaving the way he assumed it would.
>>919997 Who gives a shit, Jesus Christ More retarded questions get answered here all the time, just answer the questions without acting autistic and ride your bikes instead of jacking off to muh board culture
Does anyone have any tips to cycling in rural areas where the community is unaccustomed to cycling on main roads with cars? Most of the roads are double yellow country roads, 35 or 45 MPH, so I tend to ride as much to the right as I can and rarely take the lane, but everyone who passes me in a car acts like I had committed a crime for bringing a bike out of a cul de sac and putting it on the holy motorist territory. I'm also the only other bike I've ever met in my town. Ever. Not even the kids bike.
Any suggestions outside of moving to a city? I enjoy the hills and winding roads here.
>>920030 Use daytime lights and ignore any haters.
I'm a little surprised to hear your experience, on the rural roads near me I don't think anyone cares if there's a bicyclist going down the road - it's not like there's any traffic to be slowed down...
Your first priority should be appropriate clothing, so your ass won't get sore/chafe. Maybe gloves, if you have sensitive/sweaty hands. Helmet is personal preference but hey, at least to avoid tickets. A good u-lock+wire is necessary too if you're going to be leaving your bike outside. Also a spare tube, patch kit, tire levers, and a multi-tool, ideally with chain breaker.
>>920125 I wouldn't put a cargo rack on a carbon frame unless there were eyelets clearly designed for that mounting, otherwise you don't really know whether or not the carbon was laid out to accept the weight of a rack on the back end of the bike.
>>920136 you should always carry a patch kit and/or spare tube, some kind of pump/inflator, and a basic multitool
>>920225 I have pic related, topeak wedge pack medium, I think it's a medium. Can fit two tubes multitool, tyre levers, glue etc and can even fit my large wallet in and maybe my phone if I unzip the expansion bit.
Is this worth £20? I know nothing about MTBs but think it could be fun with some midge handlebars and bar end shifters. Maybe a selle turbo and a nice silver stem. I just don't want to sink cash into a truly awful frame.
This could be caused by an improperly seated bottom headset race. My previous bike had this same issue only much more noticeable, and if you turned the bars around at one point it became very hard to keep turning.
Your case looks pretty mild though. I wouldn't worry about it.
>>918976 From my experience gear hubs are nightmares they might last awhile but when they fuck up they fuck up bad and you're gonna be a slave to the LBS to fix it. Just changing the sprocket on my ex girlfriend's Nexus hub took me like a whole day
>>920332 >>920332 >>919092 >>919091 >>919090 It's much simpler than that, the original question has two parts and they're not hard: >1. Can a 9-sp Shimano compatible derailer shift a 10-sp Shimano cassette? Yes. >2. Can a friction shifter work with that derailer? Yes - but once you try to friction shift over 9 or more cogs, accurate friction shifting becomes more difficult because the amount of cable pulled to achieve each shift becomes shorter and shorter.
So I have this new bike. When I pedal it by hand and stop, the chain bunches up above the chainstays. If I do not hold the cranks, it spins like a fixed gear. Is it because the new chain is so tacky? The last thing I want to do is to damage my frame.
>>920356 Unless your chain is extremely stiff/lacking in lubricant, the problem is at your freewheel/freehub: something is stopping the mechanism from allowing the cogs attached to the rear wheel to spin when you're not pedaling.
The solution may become obvious if you look closely at what your rear wheel is doing, but it's hard to diagnose via the internet unless you take pictures and tell us more about your setup.
>>920356 Does it bunch up in one spot or in a bunch of different links? Try grabbing the stiff spot and working it back and forth applying pressure with your thumbs, then see if it moves easier. Don't worry, you won't break it.
>>920376 It's clear, nothing is touching. It doesn't get stuck all the time, but like every 1/8th of a turn. I'll probably repost this sometime next week. I don't have tools to investigate further. Thanks for the help.
Quick question before I have to go out and buy new tubes. I have two 35-45 tubes, can they fit just fine in my 700x32c marathon plus I just purchased or do I have to go out and buy 25-32 tubes? I'm asking because they look pretty wide compared to my 35 Sammy slicks.
>>920451 You're fine, the problem with running a larger tube in a smaller tire is that they're prone to pinch flats during initial installation (lots of floppy rubber to get stuck under the tire bead), if you got them installed and inflated they're fine to ride on.
This edition of the bqg is past its bump limit, time for a new thread.
>>920426 That's funny because after having watched US and UK helmet cams of drivers I got the impression that UK drivers are even worse. Obviously helmet cam videos aren't a balanced source but it's what I've got. I suppose most of them were in urban areas, are your rural drivers better maybe?
One, the chainstay (2nd from bottom pic) was getting really nicked up on my bike, and when I noticed I put a few layers of masking tape over it. Today, when I peeled it off to take a picture there wasn't any more damage but quite a bit has already been done. I would like to know why the chain might be hitting the chainstay and how to prevent it.
Two, in additon to the chainstay damage there's some old chips on other parts of the frame that have rotten rusty, and I have bought some supplies from various stores to fix them.
The supplies I bought for painting are: >sandpaper, 60, 150, 220, and 2000 grit >rust remover gel (phosphoric acid, water, 2-propanol) >wax/grease remover prep spray >surprisingly well matched red spraypaint >clearcoat >acetone >rags >brushes >masking tape
My plans for painting, from start to finish are: >mask off about 1cm around area with tape and paper >sand with 220 (150 as needed if it's rusty or rough) on and within about a half centimeter of the chipped area, trying not to remove metal >if it's got rust use the rust remover as directed until it's sufficiently gone, careful to keep it off existing paint >wipe the area clean >clean lightly with acetone and/or prep spray (I'm not sure about what do do) >spray some red paint into tray >brush on a light coat to cover the sanded area, focusing on chipped spot >sand lightly with 220 >repeat for 4-5 coats >sand final coat with 220 then 2000 >spray a coat of clear on masked off area >use buffing compound to blend the clearcoat in with the stock paint
I'd like to know if I should do anything differently or if I'd be doing anything wrong. The bike is a late 80s/early 90s peugeot montreal special, and the paint almost looks like enamel, which I'm a little concerned about.
Also, how would I go about fixing the chips in the decals, Should I just go with the plan I already laid out and do the final coat over the letter area white before clear coating it?
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