[Boards: 3 / a / aco / adv / an / asp / b / biz / c / cgl / ck / cm / co / d / diy / e / fa / fit / g / gd / gif / h / hc / his / hm / hr / i / ic / int / jp / k / lgbt / lit / m / mlp / mu / n / news / o / out / p / po / pol / qa / qst / r / r9k / s / s4s / sci / soc / sp / t / tg / toy / trash / trv / tv / u / v / vg / vip /vp / vr / w / wg / wsg / wsr / x / y ] [Search | Home]
4Archive logo
/bqg/ - Bike Questions General
If images are not shown try to refresh the page. If you like this website, please disable any AdBlock software!

You are currently reading a thread in /n/ - Transportation

Thread replies: 326
Thread images: 42
File: 1442878904018.jpg (538 KB, 1177x1600) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
1442878904018.jpg
538 KB, 1177x1600
go fuck yourself edition
>>
The world needs more round tube aluminum frames
>>
almost pulled the trigger on $30 vinyl protection tape until I saw the thickness of 0.015mm, literally the same as duct tape thickness. Apart from aesthetics, is there a difference? Reapplying it is not an issue, going through 10 rolls of duct tape equals to two strips of protective tape in terms of price. Not on a mtb, just a gravel grinder.
>>
>>918516
Duct tape is sticky crap that looks hideous and starts fraying at the edges.
>>
>mfw I see someone with an unused rack wearing a heavy backpack
>>
>>918516
Assuming you're using it for downtube/chainstay protection, duct tape will get torn apart by a chain or gravel, while an equally thin sheet of vinyl will last pretty near the life of your frame. If you're really cheap, you could probably find a thin vinyl sheet without too much trouble, cut it to the desired shape, and apply your own adhesive.
>>
>>918520
I have a home made inner tube chainstay protector held together with electrical tape. Do I really need protection if my frame is titanium? I don't have paint to chip, that's why I don't feel like investing too much in it. Would gravel cause damage to the ti if I were to have no protection?
>>
>>918525
I wouldn't worry about it unless you're likely to experience an exceptional amount of chain slap.
>>
>>918527
Alright. I was just concerned about the downtube being pelted continuously by gravel.
>>
>>918533
You can get cheaper strips of clear protective vinyl on eBay. I spend 10 seconds searching and this was the 2nd result

www.ebay.com/itm/321423274273
>>
Recently degreased and relubed my chain. I used one of those park tool chain cleaners.

Now there's a rattling coming from the rear mech that is annoying the hell out of me.
I've already tried adjusting the limiter screws/barrel and it hasn't helped.

Any ideas?
>>
>>918483
All cheaper bikes I've seen have aluminium frames what's wrong with it? Although the cheapest are steel, I think.
>>
>>918556
Aluminium frames in my experience usually aren't round these days, probably for rigidity reasons.
>>
Good and cheap touring bike brands in Yurop?
>>
Opinions on the Jamis Renegade Expat?http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/renegadeexpat.html

It ticks so many boxes for me. Threaded BB, Disc brakes, thru-axle fork, wider tires, fender mounts, Tiagra 4700 and trp spyres.

Only thing i'm concerned about is the relative low grade of steel tubing. It's still butted reynolds cr-mo, so i guess it can't be that bad?

>>918555
Is there any play in some of the pivots? or maybe the cage plate has come loose?
>>
>>918563
>rear QR
>front thru
Wait a year if you can hold out. Omega crankset is also shit and uses a retarded 19mm spindle and BB that is only used for Omega.

Although I realize you could buy the Expat and a full 105 group for less than the 105 version if you don't care about the other parts.

Nothing wrong with 520 though. Nothing special either. Lets put it this way, it's better than Surly gaspipe.
>>
>>918519
>mfw that's me
I need to carry that shit with me when I go inside places so I can't just put it in panniers. I've also been too lazy to get a milkcrate or something that I could put my bag into while I'm riding.
>>
>>918565

>Wait a year if you can hold out.

Yeah I've been thinking about that too, especially with all the stuff going on in the bike industry at the moment, but I figured that I will just say the same next year, and then I might aswell just go ahead and get one now.

I'll be replacing some parts along the way, among those a new crankset. I didnt know the Omega was that stupid though.
>>
>>918563

mechanical discs though
>>
File: 1453433630448.jpg (192 KB, 647x612) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
1453433630448.jpg
192 KB, 647x612
Was it normal for road bikes in the 70's to not come with rubber hoods on the brake levers?
>>
>>918570
Yes
>>
>>918568
Spyres are good mechs
>>
File: cassette.jpg (170 KB, 1200x800) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
cassette.jpg
170 KB, 1200x800
tl;dr: I need easier gears wat do

current setup: 50/34 cranks, 12-25 8-speed cassette, claris shifters

So the 34-25 isn't low enough bottom gear when plowing through snow up hills, I'm not strong enough to pedal seated in said conditions and standing up just means wheelspin. Also I'm not fast enough to push 50-12, with winter tyres at least.

I'm looking at cassettes with bigger sprockets, but they often come with 11 tooth too which is completely useless for me. Is it possible to buy a 11-32 and use the 12 from my current cassette to replace the 11?

Any other tips for picking the cassette (and chain?) would be appreciated too.
>>
>>918689
Make custom cassettes. It's easy to do if you have a drill press (or drill and vise/clamp) up to 9 speeds.
>>
>>918689
>Is it possible to buy a 11-32 and use the 12 from my current cassette to replace the 11?
Yep, you got it.

Only other thing you need to worry about is whether your rear derailer has a cage long enough to accept a cog larger than 28t.
>>
>>918697
I don't have any of those tools, but I'll look into it.

>>918698
From what I've read the Claris RD is specced for 11-32 so it shouldn't be a problem.

I guess I need a longer chain with the bigger sprocket anyway?
>>
Is it better to get a new entry level cheap brand bike or a more well known brand that's around 5 years old for the same price?

For example: https://www.reidcycles.com.au/2015-osprey-road-bike.html
I wouldn't be happy with that cassette though desu. I want 32T big cog or at least a derailleur that is compatible with one. 8 speed cassette is not the best either.

Plenty of second hand bikes for around that price range. Most seem to be better equipped. Mostly trek and giant brand.
>>
>>918708
Especially with road bikes, old parts of good quality hold their own for many years. So in general, you'll get more bike picking up an older model at the same price.
>>
>>918709
>Especially with road bikes, old parts of good quality hold their own for many years.
Unless the bike is already many years old and those parts are at the end of their lives anyways.
>>
>>918555
why would you adjust the limit screws ? They don't need readjustment unless you change your setup.

Try cleaning and regreasing the jockey wheels. Do one at a time and you won't get them mixed up.
>>
>>918708
it kinda pisses me off that you can get a very acceptable entry level roadie for less than $500 roobux, while in the US a similar bike is twice as expensive
>>
>>918899
Nashbar and BikesDirect have similar deals though.
>>
>>918899
The BD Claris bike is $450 isn't it?
>>
File: HU249Z07.jpg (33 KB, 1100x623) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
HU249Z07.jpg
33 KB, 1100x623
So because of some strange circumstances, I just biked 9 miles home without QR skewers in my front wheel.

On a scale of 1 to "biking with a crack in your carbon frame," how retardedly dangerous was this?

If I absolutely had to do it again, should I?
>>
>>918917
>9 miles without front skewer
Oh wow. Did you limit your speed to 4mph and avoid every single bump along the way? If not, you got incredibly lucky.
>>
>>918920
Pfft fuck no I was blazing down hills at 35mph and climbing out of the saddle.

Only had it slip off a little bit twice, but it only came off one end each time so I never actually crashed.

Was it really just a stroke of luck that I'm not dead, or are QR skewers really that optional?
>>
File: i guess so.jpg (71 KB, 1280x720) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
i guess so.jpg
71 KB, 1280x720
>>918901
>>918900
>>
>>918917
>>918921
QR skewers are absolutely not optional.

You should be bloody and broken in a gutter somewhere.
>>
File: pika.jpg (99 KB, 1200x800) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
pika.jpg
99 KB, 1200x800
I want to get into bike camping or maybe minor touring. Multi-day trips. Currently I just have a road bike that is not rack compatible but I don't want to go buy a touring bike if I don't know if I'll enjoy it.

I was thinking of just buying pic related. Any tips for these kinds of trips? Are MRES effective? I would need to carry light. I'm thinking just a few MREs change of clothes and a sleeping bag. Is this possible on just a road bike?
>>
>>918925
Yeah any large saddle bag or handlebar bag will do if you're staying in hostels. If you're camping you'll need a larger pannier for the tent. A bivvy bag is an option but if you're staying out a tent will be many times cheaper and more comfortable.
>>
>>918926
*starting out

The thing is bike packing stuff is cool right now and far more expensive than an old mountain bike and a cheap rack.
>>
>>918926
What would you recommend to carry such a tent without a rack?
>>
>>918929
Hmm, backpack? Frame bag? I imagine it will depend on the tent and how small the poles fold up.
>>
>>918932
Yeah maybe a lightweight backpack. Nothing too heavy or I would think your back would be dead after a few hours.
>>
If my clipless pedals are in the mail, do I have to wait and get shoes after they arrive or can I cycle down to the shop and pick some up in preparation?
>>
>>918925

check out thule's pack n pedal racks
>>
>>918934

Not that you can't do it yourself but people at your LBS will probably fit them for you when you get your shoes
>>
>>918925
old man mountain rack.
connects to your hub, much stronger, less flexy, versatile.
>>
>>918938
Hmm that's seems pretty neat. What kind of bag would go with it?
>>
File: DLX.jpg (957 KB, 5712x1536) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
DLX.jpg
957 KB, 5712x1536
>>918940
>>918938
>>918935
There is also this. How well would this work?
>>
complete newb here and i have a few questions

1)i'd like a bike that would get me from point a to point b with little maintenance(i fucked up that word didnt i) and my budget is 200 euro-ish( can go more if needed ofc). What are my best options?
2) winters get pretty rough here and our garage isnt heated or any fancy shit like that. How do i care for my bike in the winter?
3) speaking about winter, is there any special tyres for winter that would allow me to ride muh bike without going sideways all the time?
4) do i need special gear or clothing if i plan on driving quite a bit around, or is it absolutely optional?

thanks to whoever answers these. if you need to know where i come from to pick tvhe bike, I live in Lithuania lol.
>>
>>918948
Do you have decathlons in your neck of the woods? If so, go there and talk to the staff. If not buy a cheap Dutch bike or something. Just keep the moving parts lubed and wash it after riding through road salt.
>>
File: facepalm-jewish.jpg (55 KB, 563x339) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
facepalm-jewish.jpg
55 KB, 563x339
>>918945
>no eyelets
>shitty axiom streamliner disc rack with seatstay bridge mount
>wants to ride around for days with full size panniers
...dude

just no
>>
>>918948
>1)i'd like a bike that would get me from point a to point b with little maintenance(i fucked up that word didnt i) and my budget is 200 euro-ish( can go more if needed ofc). What are my best options?
Depends on distance, a single speed with flat bars would be ok for trips of a few km at a time, you'd want drop bars and gears (internally geared hub if you want lower maintenance) for longer distance and hills. You're not getting shit for 200 euros
>2) winters get pretty rough here and our garage isnt heated or any fancy shit like that. How do i care for my bike in the winter?
The only thing you need to worry about is salt. Clean off the salt, and keep everything greased and lubed.
>3) speaking about winter, is there any special tyres for winter that would allow me to ride muh bike without going sideways all the time?
Yes, they are called studded tires, schwalbe and nokian make very good ones. They are bigger than your average road tire so you need a bike with decent clearance (cross bike for example or rigid MTB)
>4) do i need special gear or clothing if i plan on driving quite a bit around, or is it absolutely optional?
It really helps with comfort if you're spending a lot of time on the bike, your definition of "a lot" may be different from mine, but if it's more than 8-10 hours of riding per week I would seriously consider it
>>
>>918948
200€ is less than I would suggest you spend. You're not getting anything you'd want to use much for that kind of money.

The Pinnacle Lithium 1 (~300€) or Kona Dewey (~350€) isn't _that_ much more money, and I'd say well worth it as opposed to picking up some heap of garbage at Decathlon.
>>
>>918972
I mean come on it's the current year!
>>
What gloves do you guys wear in the winter? I'm looking for a lobster claw. Needs to be waterproof/windproof.
>>
File: RD-M64L_m.jpg (24 KB, 345x298) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
RD-M64L_m.jpg
24 KB, 345x298
If I hook at RD-M64L (pic related) up to a friction shifter do you think I could get it to shift 10 cogs/gears (it is a 9 speed index)?

Specs are:
Max:34T
Min:11T
Total Cap:45T

Cassette I'd like to have it shift on:
11-13-15-17-19-21-24-27-30-34

Front gears are:
48-36-24
>>
>>919090
10spd is even narrower than 9spd, because drugs, so it'll work just fine froma technical point of view.
Non-index shifting stopped being funny a long time ago though, so i can't see why you'd want to trade indexing for an extra gear.

Also, Shimano road 9spd and 10spd use the same read derailleur geometry, so you could get an indexed 10spd road shifter and get ten indexed gears.

You might need a spacer to fit the 10spd cassette properly on your 9spd hub.
>>
>>919091

>If I hook at RD-M64L (pic related) up to a friction shifter do you think I could get it to shift 10 cogs/gears (it is a 9 speed index)?

Yes

>Also, Shimano road 8,9,10 spd, and MTB 8, 9 speed use the same read derailleur geometry, so you could get an indexed 10spd road shifter and get ten indexed gears.

fixed

>You might need a spacer to fit the 10spd cassette properly on your 9spd hub.

The cassettes include a spacer, but usually you won't need another one on top of that unless you run mavic wheels.
>>
>>919089
Gore >> All
>>
>>919089
Snowmobile stuff

depends on your "winter" anyway
>>
>>919089
I don't live in some frozen hellhole, but I'm fine with just two pairs of regular cheap ass gloves at once.

Just those thin windblocking cyclist gloves, and then some wider leather ones.

It often gets down to 20 F, but I'm completely comfortable the whole way through. I know that barely qualifies as winter for most people though, so ça dépend.

How can you even ride in mittens anyway? I feel like you'd be sacrificing some much needed dexterity.
>>
>>919104
Bike-specific lobster gloves leave your good fingers free and your shitty fingers together in the same claw. They also have padding in just the right spot for long-haul comfort, and they are reinforced in such a way that the typical wear and tear you'd have from riding with them on drop bars and using brifters won't cause premature failure
>>
>>918945

Go with thules pack n pedal rack. It is exactly for bikes with no eyelets/mounts and comes well reviewed.
>>
>>919159
>well reviewed
I almost got that pack but got scared off by the reviews. We must be looking at different sites.
>>
>>919166

You could also trade in your emonda AL5 for a Trek 720
>>
>>919168
Why not a Trek 520?
>>
>>919193
>>919168

Well the 720 is closer to the one he already had. The 520 is good though.
>>
Is the 2015 tcr-0 a good bike?
Frame is alloy and looks stiff, comes in 105 group and won't cost too many dollarydoos.

Main concern is stiffness really, especially in the chainstays and forks.
>>
>>919224
Any modern frame is more than stiff enough unless you're fat.
>>
>>919224

>overdrive steerer

Why anyone would buy a Giant is beyond me. The only giant I'd buy is the alloy Propel because it is damn sexy and they don't even sell them here.
>>
>>919227
is 89kg fat?
>>919228
What's wrong with overdrive? is it a compatibility issue with aftermarket parts or something?

Also what hole do you live in that you can't at least order a propel?
>>
>>919229
>is 89kg fat?
4 pounds short of a clyde, so almost but not quite.

>What's wrong with overdrive? is it a compatibility issue with aftermarket parts or something?
Yes, with no meaningful gain. There wasn't even a meaningful gain going from 26mm to 31.8mm handlebars on road bikes, it just streamlined stem production, which is why moving to 35mm bars is retarded just like 1 1/4" steerers on road bikes.

>Also what hole do you live in that you can't at least order a propel?
You can't order an alloy propel in most first world countries.
>>
im looking for an affordable 28" discbrake wheelset, any recommendations?
>>
>>919237
Get some of pic related. Lower spoke count than you're probably used to, but they're super strong even under heavy loads anon.
>>
>>919238
you didnt post a pic m8
>>
File: Amish Bontragers.jpg (151 KB, 720x480) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
Amish Bontragers.jpg
151 KB, 720x480
>>919248
Sorry anon, here you are.
>>
File: 1453424308325.jpg (58 KB, 584x649) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
1453424308325.jpg
58 KB, 584x649
>>919249
2/10 not aero enough
>>
Doing a lot of riding on my hybrid commutery bike.

Should I get clipless pedals or would it be a waste of time? My feet don't tend to move that much.
>>
>>919311
Depends on how you ride: clipless pedals make it easier to keep your feet on the pedals when you spin the cranks at higher cadences and when riding out of the saddle. If you're not sure you'd benefit, try straps/toe cage and strap first - much cheaper and won't require compatible shoes (you still need something with a stiff sole though).
>>
>>919313
I really don't find toe clips and clipless to be a comparable riding experience at all

Getting in and out of toe clips is always an awkward fumbling experience and they really mostly just help your foot not slide forward.
>>
>>918516
>>918525
Inner tube chainstay protectors are the best!
>>
>>919347
What are they for?
>>
>>919350
So the chain doesn't rattle and slam when it hits the chainstay. It also prevents paint chips, but on an uglyness scale the inner tubes are about as bad as the chips in my opinion.

I use scraps of bar tape myself. It's perfect for the job.
>>
>>919353
What does it sound like? I don't think I've noticed anything.
>>
>>919350
They're common on freeride/DH bikes, where with all the shaking/jumping the chain is bound to touch the seat stay frequently. I wouldn't put one on a road bike.
>>
>>919359
ah right
>>
>>919354
*tick* *clap* *clang*

Like anon said, it's for mountainbiking.
A clear vinyl film is often preapplied on roadbikes to prevent paint chips if you should drop a curb carelessly or something.
>>
File: VO halfclips4.jpg (38 KB, 400x232) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
VO halfclips4.jpg
38 KB, 400x232
>>919315
>>919313
One thing I've always wondered.

I don't use that little strap that goes with the toe clips, I just sorta let them sit in like pic related.

Is this retarded? Do the straps offer much of an advantage?
>>
I recently removed the decals from my shitty Chinese rims, what can I use to remove the glue remnants?
>>
>>919400
wd-40, pb blaster
>>
>>919386
The entire point of toe clips was originally just to hold the strap open so you could insert your feet in.
>>
>>919402

WD40, seriously? I'm a little wary to apply it anywhere near the braking surface, but if it does work I can just be extra careful.
>>
>>919408
Gasoline and kerosene are also good at removing sticky stuff. Any volatile oil. I'd personally try alcohol first.
>>
Just bought a set of FLO 30s for my 2015 CAAD 10 105
Should I use conti supersonics for the uphill tt I'm doing in a while, or just 4000s
>>
File: image.png (41 KB, 609x464) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
image.png
41 KB, 609x464
>>919438
Course is 4.2 miles up at 4-6% grade
Would be using Michelin latex tubes
>>
>>918566
that laziness will lead to back problems and sweaty backs in the summer
>>
>>918721
this a probably good place to start, I'd also recomend making sure the components in the drive train are tight (eg. casset, rear derelleur hanger, quick release skewer, etc) this was known at the shop i worked at as a safety check
>>
>>919439
Well, it's at least 50 g saving per tyre. Depends how weight weenie you're getting about it.

Per dollar that's a pretty good saving. Just hope the course is clean.
>>
>>919257
kek
>>
>>919249
>no disc mounts

gtfo
>>
>>919411

What about mineral spirits?
>>
>>919402
no, wd-40 has an endocrine disruptor in it called PCBs that cause higher rates of skin, liver, and brain cancers, ie it's toxic . I don't know baout pb blaster but I'd do some research before assuming it isn't toxic
>>
>>919439
4ksii are some of the more aero tyres available, and the black chili works a treat for me. Id just run those and not worry about
>>
>>919089
wool liners and either neoprene gloves or some work gloves, depending on wettness. Ski gloves for when shit gets real. But this winter has been so mild that it's fucking disgusting. Not even Feb. and it's already in the 50s out. Fuck this shit.


>>919386
straps are pretty useless unless you really cinch them in like a tarck superstar. which sucks dick for riding in the city. go clipless or straight up plattys imo.
>>
>>919451
It uses 6-bolt rotors. Just use wood screws instead of bolts
>>
>>919473
we nvidia now
>>
Better or worse than toe clips? I don't use the strap on the toe cages.

Are these for fixie fags only?
>>
>>919475
>I don't use the strap on the toe cages.
They're about as effective as a cage without a strap - both give partial foot retention, but can't hold your foot in all parts of the stroke.

in order of maximum effectiveness for pedaling efficiency:
no retention < strap only = cage only < cage w/ strap < caged with slotted cleat = clipless (1) < clipless + toe strap (2)


1 - clipless also provides an extra benefit by being much more convenient for the rider, in varying degrees according to the pedal used
2 - only used by really strong track sprinters
>>
Which mtb derailleurs are compatible with sora 9 speed shifter? Are there any that can handle 34T big cog cassettes?
>>
>>919485
>9-sp, 34t
any 8-, 9-, or 10- speed Shimano mtb derailer that isn't Dynasis will work
>>
>>919487
So they are compatible with the 9 speed road shifter? Just need clarification.
>>
>>919485
Deore M591 or XT M771 is best, but yea above anon is also right
>>
>>919487
>10 speed shimano mtb that isnt synashit
>>
Should I get a new headset from China for $10, or just a crown race for $7?

The bearings I have need a 36* crown, or I could just get new everything with 45*.
>>
>5000km on chain
>think maybe it's time for a replacement?
>still less than 0.3 wear

I haven't even been taking good care of it. Do chains start to wear exponentially? Otherwise this is going to last 10k at least, which is kind of surprising based on all the stuff I've heard.
>>
>>919527
>I haven't even been taking good care of it. Do chains start to wear exponentially?
I don't know about others, but my experience was yes. When I got a chain tool, I measured, seemed good. Measured again with fewer miles than new to before I measured, suddenly 0.5. I would keep an eye on it, or swap chains if you want to do chain rotations.
>>
>>919490
>M591 or M771 is best

Hahaha no get that fucking rapid rise shit out of here. You want RD-M592 or RD-M772 if you want a Shimano 9-speed mountain rear derailleur.
>>
>>919487
all 10-speed shimano mountain derailleurs are Dynasis, bro.
>>
Are most road bikes able to have pannier racks?
>>
>>919541
Newer road bikes, and especially carbon ones are not made with any consideration for racks, although there are various alternative mounting options (seat post, wrap around stays) it's probably not recommended.

I think a lot of older bikes from the 80s and 70s have built in provisions for racks.

For more modern bikes you might be interested in looking at touring/gravel/adventure/cyclocross.
>>
>>919489
Check out the RD-M4000. It's cheap, good for 36t cassettes and compatible with 8/9/10-spd road shifters. I use that setup myself on the monstercross.
>>
Done a lot of cycling last week and after the last ride I've felt completely zonked out and a bit ill.

Have I pushed it too much or am I catching a cold or something?
>>
File: 12-32.jpg (56 KB, 650x640) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
12-32.jpg
56 KB, 650x640
>>918689
Actually I found some 12-32 and 13-32 cassettes that don't need any modification.
Next question is; if I buy one and put it on, what do I need to do about my chain and derailleur to make it actually work? Also, if I need to entirely replace the chain too, could I use it again if I decide to go back to the 12-25 cassette?
>>
>>919400
Rubbing alcohol, if that doesn't work get goo gone
>>
>>919563
check ya diet
>>
>>919575
Do I need to eat more? Less? I eat lots of fruit and vegetables desu. Lots of water too.
>>
>>919576
If you're going on strenuous rides, you should have a healthy amount of protein post-ride for recovery.
>>
>>919568
You might need a longer chain. And yes, if you do, you can save the old chain to use if you ever go back to the 12-25 cassette.
>>
>>919582
Ahh that's probably why I feel shit then.

I'm going to get some protein shake powder stuff today funnily enough.
>>
File: $_20.jpg (93 KB, 800x600) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
$_20.jpg
93 KB, 800x600
cop or not cop? honestly I just think the frame looks cool as hell. $80.
>>
>>919634
Yes, get it and turn it into a belt-drive commuter.
>>
>>919635
>belt-drive
point me in the right direction pal
idk shit about that
>>
>>919635
>meme drive
>>919640

Do you live in a an area with hills?
>>
>>919641
no, it's pretty flat. I wouldn't mind being able to take it to trails or something though
>>
>>919652
Ignore the belt drive shit, I'd get the bike looks like fun. Just be aware certain parts may need replacing.
>>
Is a go pro an absolute must if you're riding around in the city? I almost got hit today and I had the right away to a light. Last year the count was around 58 times.
>>
>>919661
No it turns you into a complete wanker that goes out looking to act the victim and film bad drivers so you can upload the videos to youtube like a sad cunt.

Maybe you should ride defensively m8 rather than relying on whether you have the right of way or not.
>>
>>919662


I can't, I've tried. I've been riding for fourteen years and I've always been aggressive, maybe I've just been too lucky over the years. It's stupid how I ride, especially in Arizona where there's a bunch of people uninsured, last year though I got hit on a cross walk while a guy was turning right, it's dangerous either way out here. By the way, the asshole drove off.
>>
>>919664
Well a gopro won't stop you getting hit desu.

Where do you live that you get hit so much? I'm guessing the US?
>>
>>919665

I just said Arizona, it won't. But at least I might have the chances of catching the license plate next time?
>>
>>919666
I heard from someone on /n/ before that american police don't give a shit about cycle accidents.

I dunno m8, maybe you shouldn't cycle if it's that dangerous.
>>
>>919667

>all police are the same.

This is the problem with America.
>>
>>919669
What city do you live in?
>>
>>919662
Defensive cager detected
Maybe you should look up from your phone sometimes
>>919661
I've been riding in NYC for 15 years, I occasionally think about getting one but the way I see it you need at least two and the kind of accidents it's good for, the only thing it helps is for the next of kin to get more damages in the civil suit, since cage murder is not technically against the law
>>
>>919675
I'm not a cager, I just think the people who spend their lives uploading videos of bad drivers and shit and going MUH RIGHT OF WAY to youtube are pathetic.
>>
>>919676
You don't see a problem with massive numbers of entitled motorists who consistently put other peoples' lives in danger? You literally think people who film these people are the bigger problem?
>>
>>919664
seems like the only solution is to ride even more aggressively. grind harder and jump red lights, no compromise since you're gaining nothing from the relative restraint you excersise now
>>
>>919690
we all know they go out looking for trouble and pulling passive aggressive bullshit until they finally get some sort of reaction and appease their need for attention. They are scum of the earth.
>>
File: cagers.png (310 KB, 530x353) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
cagers.png
310 KB, 530x353
>>919693
>>919676
>I'm not a cager
>I'm just acting like a defensive cager
You sound like the pedos on /g/
>hurr it's EPHEBOPHILE I'm not actually a sick fuck
This is literally you, vile murderous cager.
>>
>>919697
Nigger I dont even own car but I'm not delusional enough to believe that drivers are all murderous psychopaths and all cyclists can do no wrong.
>>
>>919701
Apparently you are delusional enough to believe that inadvertently making a recording of attempted vehicular homicide is a violation of the cager's personal privacy, which says enough, really.
>>
File: fluff.jpg (675 KB, 2021x1097) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
fluff.jpg
675 KB, 2021x1097
>>919701
>drivers are all murderous psychopaths and all cyclists can do no wrong.
YES!,,, and,, yes.
,the caris inherently DEATH!,
,,sociotys , ignore the grisly slaughter,,, thats just the Extraction process!, now lets refine the POISON, dummp the most toxic portion where it can kill the most., sell the resto Cagers! HUFFING TIME!,
, Hitler, loved,, the Killtruck.
>>
File: glom.jpg (1 MB, 2179x1449) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
glom.jpg
1 MB, 2179x1449
>>919701
then,, you use, TAR, on your roof!
,,Rainkiller!,,,, next youll use it for Medicne!, OPPS! TOLATE!, Painkiller!
,treating toxiin induced illness,,, with Stronger toxins!
>>
File: tresspassnot.jpg (670 KB, 3067x959) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
tresspassnot.jpg
670 KB, 3067x959
>>919701
>dont own car
sorry to Ragon you.
,(HUG),, just worryed about neighbors,, so many have a Pyramid of drugstacked onover time.,, drugs totreat drugs., i NEED MORE DRUGS! FASTER! FASSSSTER!!!
,,,wwWWWWWOSH! SLAP!,
,tahks, i needed that.
>>
File: crosstrail 2012.jpg (54 KB, 800x531) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
crosstrail 2012.jpg
54 KB, 800x531
I'm putting together a spare wheel for my indoor trainer and I'm trying to make sure i have everything that makes this shit up. I'm new as fuck and trying to figure this shit out as i go along. This is what i have so far:

>Wheel
http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-Shimano-Cassette-26X1-5-Inch/dp/B004YJ2J9I/
>Cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-HG51-8-Speed-Cassette-11-28T/dp/B005DTWRUE/
>Tire
http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Hometrainer-Folding-Black-1-75cc/dp/B009BBWE9O/
>Tube
http://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Tube-Bicycle-Tire/dp/B001G63AS6/
>Tape
http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-WE8502-P-Sram-Rise-Tape/dp/B0081TYQ52/

Aside from obvious tools I'll need to get it situated, the only thing else I'm confused about are the sizes of the tire and tubes I'll need. Did i do good or am i fucking up?

Pic Related: My bike
>>
>>918721
The only reason i can think of for adjusting the rear mech screws in that case is if the derailleur is hitting the spokes in low gear due to lateral play in the chain from rough cleaning (Unlikely.)

Clean everything and check that the rear mech is aligned while in the lowest gear, but I'd check the chain first; you'd be surprised how much play the chain can get after a really good clean.
>>
>>918899
The osprey group is a shit though.

But yes, you can get a nice 105 groupset alloy bike for around 1000 dollarydoos any day of the week here, life is good.
>>
>>919347
>Wrapped front-to-back and not t'other way 'round

Enjoy your 65W of aerodynamic drag m8.
>>
>>919741
>But yes, you can get a nice 105 groupset alloy bike for around 1000 dollarydoos any day of the week here, life is good.

lolwat? entry level 105 alloy bikes from any and all major brands are at least ~$1500 (defy 1 etc.)
>>
>>919765
>im too good for nashbar/pbike/bd
You can get a carbon 105 bike from Nashbar when they have one of their regular 20% sales, a Fuji or a Ridley from p-bike, and several options from BD
>>
>>919767

Are you talking about the USA? The cheapest nashbar 105 bikes is some crapola thats still 1500$ with shipping, I dont know what pbike is, and bd (bikes direct im guessing) doesnt ship to aus..
>>
>>919768
I literally have no idea what you're complaining about

https://www.reidcycles.com.au/falco-elite-road-bike.html
>>
>>919772
9.5kg alu/carbon

Not bad at all.

That said
>11-25

Why do people ever sell bikes with anything less than 11-28
>>
>>919774
>11-25
It's a 12-25
>>
>>919772

Im not complaining at all, anon said you could get a 105 alu bike for $1000 aud and I asked to see it, Im not trying to call anyone out, I was genuinely interested in what was available, chill.
>>
>>919774
That's an americanism. Why would you ever need that low gearing on a road bike? Loaded touring, yes, but road no.
If you're going alp climbing you're going to have a cassette specialy bought for that.

I'm a fat fred, and 39/25 is more than low enough for me on the roadie. Even in steep hills and over bridges.
I have, however, cut at the other end; running a 13-25 cassette at the moment.

Selling road bikes with these wide spaced cassettes always seemed like the daftest idea to me. 11-25 is already pretty wide.

It wasn't long ago the proverbial tenspeeds had 14-23 freewheels, and grampa liked it that way!
>>
My road bike has trouble shifting into the big ring, usually about 50% of the shifts I do actually make it over, if not I have to slam the lever and hold it to make sure it gets over. Also, when i'm shifting into the small ring, there's like a 50% chance that the chain will pop off onto the left of the small ring and fall down hitting the inner frame of the crank set. Since this is a new bike, I took it to the LBS and they readjusted my limit screws and tension, but the problem is still coming back. I've tried fiddeling with the barrel adjuster on the left lever, but the more tension I add, it doesn't seem to make any difference, all the way down to where I can't turn it anymore. Also, whenever I try to move the high limit screw counter clockwise, it doesn't seem to move the derailleur any. I'm fed up and I just want to ride smoothly without having to stop and fix my popped chain every shift and stop jamming my big ring lever too.

Please, someone help me, i'm at my wits end.
>>
>>919846
The limiter screw shouldn't move the derailleur any. It just sets the _limit_.

Screw the barrel adjuster all the way in, shift to the little ring, loosen the cable on the derailleur, pull the cable taut with you fingers while clamping it back down - tightly.

Screw out the barrel adjuster untill it behaves.
You can screw in the lower limiter screw untill you stop having chain drops, or start having chain rub. In case you still drop chains on occation (and you might) there are chain devices to prevent it. They cost almost nothing.
>>
>>919690
Though I'm a beginner I cycle quite a lot and on roads and have yet to experience the satanic drivers I keep hearing about on /n/.

Maybe it's an American thing?
>>
>>919837
>Even in steep hills and over bridges.
So basically you never do any real climbing. Although I thought Ausland was pretty flat anyways.
>>
>>919852
I'm swefag, but no, this town is nothing resembling flat. But no, i don't do any "real" climbing, and neither will 99.5% of any riders buying a road bike; shipping with Croix de fer-level cassette spreads - and compact cranks to boot - remains retarded.
>>
>>919853
>But no, i don't do any "real" climbing, and neither will 99.5% of any riders buying a road bike; shipping with Croix de fer-level cassette spreads - and compact cranks to boot - remains retarded.
Bike shouldn't come with drops because 99.5% of people won't use them 99.5% of the time.
>>
>>919854
Gear spacing is not even comparable, you idiot. It's not as if you lose anything by having a drop that you rarely if ever use, but in order to have the super low gears you have to move the gears you do have further a part.
That means the gears you _do_ use on a typical ride is going to be fewer.

That's why you change cassettes if you are going touring, or climbing, or time trialing. That's why cassettes are easily exchangable.
>>
>>919856
The year is 2016. Bikes have 11 speeds.
>>
>>919857
>This one goes to eleven so I'm going to use a spread that effectively gives me a 7spd Ultrarange.

u wot m8?

I like all my eleven (or ten, or nine, or whatever) gears to benefit me as much as possible. That's what i bought them for. Not to never have to switch gearing when switching venue.
>>
>>919858
You seem incapable of counting.
>>
File: fw635.jpg (23 KB, 360x293) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
fw635.jpg
23 KB, 360x293
>>919858
Make that Megarange.
>>
>got new saddle
>pressure is now on my sitbones and not my perineum

Fuck yes
>>
File: cant count.png (21 KB, 1016x498) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
cant count.png
21 KB, 1016x498
>>919860
Mate, you can't count for shit, and you're complaining about compact cranks out of one side of your mouth, and saying you don't need tiny cogs out the other.
>>
>>919862
>cant get erection
>buy saddle with hole in it
>pressure is now on my sitbones and not my perineum
>ready to fuck bitches
>everyone notices it hurts when i sit down
>girls think im gay and take it up the butt
Being cyclist is eternal suffering.
>>
>>919725
can anyone help a really uneducated person out here?
>>
>>919864
Yeah m8 I got one with a hole in too.

>tfw before wanted to have a wank after long rides but couldn't due to floppy dick
>>
>>919849
>Maybe it's an American thing?
Not the guy you're responding to, but no, not necessarily.

I agree with some of the previous anons: there definitely are differences in road etiquette from place to place, but the experience of how friendly/dangerous drivers are in relation to cyclists is pretty subjective, short of actual abuse (being hit, yelled at, coal rolling, etc.) it's pretty hard to tell what someone in a car is thinking; the folks who obsessively upload youtube videos of 'bad behavior' tend to be hypersensitive imho.

>>919867
>>919725
Frankly I think you're over-complicating things - just get the trainer tire and put it on your existing wheel, it will only take a few minutes to swap the tire onto the bike when it's time to use the trainer. If you really, really have to have a spare wheel, then yes what you've picked out already is correct. As for tools you'll need, you shouldn't need anything other than a pump to inflate the tube, a cassette lockring tool to install the cassette on the wheel, and some kind of wrench to turn the latter.
>>
Does screwing the low limit screw inwards too much cause the chain to not make the jump onto the big ring?
>>
>>919876
You've got it backwards, it's the high limit that controls how far outwards the derailer can move.
>>
>>919863
Or perhaps you didn't get my point. Are there two of you this dense, or are you samefag?

I'm no stranger to gear calculators, and I'd say your chart proves my point; compact with a 12-28 very roughly equals a 13-34(!) range on standard.

That's an absolutely _enormous_ gear range that is beyond ridiculous for anything resembling "normal" road riding.

You'll also see that your lowest gear on a compact 11-28 setup is about 14km/h - at a cadence of fucking 90!
That is some epic fucking climbing going on, there. See what I was getting at previously with the CdF reference?

Now, the whole point of standard cranks and no tiny cogs is you get tighter grouping for what gears you have.
I do not want many redundant gears on the high end any more than I do on the low end.

With your compact 11-28, vs my standard 13-25, the top- and bottom speed at c90 look like this:

Compact: 13.8-47.4
Standard: 17.7 -46.3

So, assuming we never spin like there is no fucking tomorrow to get up to 14km/h, I get far more usable gears in the range we actualy bike in.
You "lose" roughly four gears within that usable range; que effective 7spd Megarange setup.

Shit's not even complicated, bro.
>>
>>919230
>There wasn't even a meaningful gain going from 26mm to 31.8mm handlebars on road bikes
Man, you understand that was made to standarize the stems right? I can't find a good stem for a 26mm handlebar. But your point is correct, 35mm on road bikes? Unless it's gonna be the new industry standard? There's no logic.
>>
>>919876
Yes, but screwing it in that far would also be felt at the shifter as a force preventing you to shift. If you're the anon who can't shift, your problem is more likely (at least partly) lack of cable tension.

But to be doubly sure you can unscrew the higher limiter all the way and only screw it in when you have everything working.
Screw it in until you can just see it nudge the FD inward, and then back out half a turn.
>>
File: kinda_wet.jpg (467 KB, 549x1012) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
kinda_wet.jpg
467 KB, 549x1012
newbie here.

immediately after riding in the rain, what sort of bike maintenance do you guys do?
>>
>>919886
Wash the worst of the sand and grit off. Lube the chain the day after when it's dried up.
>>
>>919880
>doesn't get it.
Different people have different gearing needs and there's practically no disadvantage in riding around with a few extra gears that rarely get used. Also, a lot of riders don't really understand how to shift effectively and aren't likely to learn - adding more useful gear combinations to the rear enhances their experience.

You can argue all day that there's no benefit to having 'more than X-number-of-gears if you know how to use them' (and technically you'd be right in most cases), but for the average rider it's generally true that having more gearing options available is preferable to having fewer.
>>
>>919886
Wash and re lube
>>
>>919891
Yes, I'm sure there are loads of beginners out there spinning their asses of to barely get up to jogging speed.
Or, you know, you can't admit that as a factory choice of cassette the manufacturer was quite right choosing a 12-25 instead of an 11-28.

Perhaps the manufacturers realy does have a clue what a first buyer might be better served by?
>>
I got a fatbike a while ago. It was snowing today so I decided to ride it. I pushed myself pretty hard and when I got off my bike my vision started to change with whites taking on a purple-red-ish tint. Has anyone experienced this before and does anyone know why this happened?
>>
>>919874
Thanks bro.
>>
fucking road bikers
> your all cunts
>>
>>919880
>You'll also see that your lowest gear on a compact 11-28 setup is about 14km/h - at a cadence of fucking 90!
That's less than 4% grade using the default values on bike calculator at 150w.

>Now, the whole point of standard cranks and no tiny cogs is you get tighter grouping for what gears you have.
>I do not want many redundant gears on the high end any more than I do on the low end.
You're just going to get redundant close gears.

>I get far more usable gears in the range we actualy bike in.
No you don't. You get get the same close clustering in both rings.

>You "lose" roughly four gears within that usable range; que effective 7spd Megarange setup.
That's a completely unsubstantiated claim.
>>
>>919881
>There wasn't even a meaningful gain going from 26mm to 31.8mm handlebars on road bikes, it just streamlined stem production
Jesus Christ, why would you do a partial quote, and omit the following 5 words that said exactly what you just said. Are you a retard?
>>
>>919898
Were you wearing sunglasses or goggles? If you weren't, and the color change went away after a few minutes, the problem was you were starting at bright, white snow for too long and were dealing with glare and afterimage.

If the tint in your vision doesn't go away, then you need to see a doctor ASAP because a hemorrhage in the eyeball could be the symptom of a bigger health problem.
>>
>>919904
i wasn't wearing anything tinted. it's gone now, only lasted about 45 seconds
>>
File: ronnie.png (403 KB, 650x619) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
ronnie.png
403 KB, 650x619
>>919906
>>
>>919904
Welder here

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photokeratitis
>>
Why are cyclists such scum?
>>
>>919929
Because humanity is scum, and the vast majority of cyclists are human, with the exception of some bears and monkeys and other circus animals.
>>
>buy secondhand forks on ebay
>guy lied about the steerer tube length
>decide to live with it since it was such a good deal
>back is killing me due to leaning so far forward
>buy a riser stem
>it's matte and has words on the side so looks retarded

at least my riding position is back to normal but now i have to buy a can of spraypaint to fix this shit
>>
Why is it that when in the big chain ring and I turn the high limit screw to adjust the dérailleur position, it doesn't move it at all, not in or out? The screw doesn't appear to be touching the tab that makes the dérailleur physically move until I screw it all the way in. The bike is new so there's no reason for the screws not to be long enough or anything like that
>>
>>919935
Because it's a limit you moron.
>>
>>919936
Does turning the limit screws not physically move the front dérailleur? That's what the front dérailleur adjustments videos I've watched do.
>>
>>919939
It moves your derailleur if it's the lower limit. Increasing the lower limit means your derailleur will have to sit further away from the frame.
>>
>>919945
>It moves your derailleur if it's the lower limit.
Not if it's 9000/6800/5800
>>
>>919945
How am I supposed to set the dérailleurs outer limit if the screw doesn't physically move the cage?
>>
>>919949
What causes the cage to move in that direction?
>>
>>919951
I'm saying the high limit screw's end is touching anything from what I can see, so screwing it in or out doesn't seem to serve a purpose, does it? Is it supposed to not be touching anything?
>>
>>919953
See, this is the problem, you refuse to follow the directions in the videos word for word, and you refuse to think critically about the problem, and instead you just want to complain to us about how it doesn't work the way you think it should work.
>>
>>919954
These questions arose because I did the specified steps in the videos and my problems have still persisted. Thought I could gain a little insight as to how any why these problems are happening, being in the bike questions thread. I'll look for help somewhere else I guess, thank you anyway
>>
>>919956
You clearly did not follow the directions.
>>
>>919956

is your chain in the correct gear on the rear
>>
>>919965
Yes. When adjusting the outer limits, I don't fully understand how to visually sight the gap I'm supposed to be seeing when making the adjustments to the high limit screw. It doesn't seem to lessen or widen the gap between the cage and chain. Am I doing something wrong?
>>
>>919966
Either you're following a video made by a retard, or you aren't following the instructions word for word.
>>
>>919970
I'm watching GCN's front indexing video. He turns the high limit screw clockwise and counterclockwise, and it moves the dérailleurs to lessen or widen the gap between the cage and chain. When I do it, nothing happens. I've done all the previous steps in the video
>>
>>919972
In the first minute he literally explains the purpose of the limit screws, quite graphically. You are literally being a moron and not following the steps, and I don't want to spoonfeed you just so you ask retard questions because you can't follow directions.
>>
>>919974
>>919974
My apologies for the hostility of this guy. I dont think he fully understands what youre asking, hence him not offering anything worthwile except insults. Have you tried keeping pressure on the lever while making the adjustment, or pulling the inner cable by hand? If the derailleur is all the way out, and you're hitting the upper limit screw, the shifting cable will be holding it there.
>>
>>919978
Stop spoonfeeding him. It's mentioned in the video, the moron decided he could skip steps, which is why he has problems. You are cancer, and you only help idiots like him be cancerous.
>>
>>919886
Clean my chain with 2 rounds of degreaser then hot water with dish soap then hot water, dry between each round with a fresh microfiber shop rag, and reapply lube after it's dried. Let lube dry for an hour, wipe down with shop rag, lube again, let dry for another hour, and wipe again.

Remove the brake pads and lap the surfaces with a set of DMT diamond plates (500, 1k, 2k, then 4k) and clean each disc rotor with 95% reagant ethanol, then air dry. Reinstall pads.

The rest of the bike can go fuck itself though especially mud on the frame
>>
>>919979
Take a deep breath and relax or I'm going to have to bump one or more of the threads that wasn't in the BBG/BQG.
>>
>>919982
That's fine, because I'm not your imaginary foamer boogeyman. The guy is literally a retard who refuses to follow the directions in the GCN video he claims he watched, and is skipping steps. The video fucking explains what the limit screws do in the first minute, and this guy can't figure it out because he skipped to half way through the video.

>>919980
>4k brake pads
I kekd, also enjoy your embedded diamond grit
>>
>>919979
I had the same problem once, and I believe the video didn't go into enough detail to fully understand why it was happening until I looked it up on park tools or something.

Point is, the guy now knows what's wrong, learned something, and can get on to riding his bike. I do believe in some tinkering and figuring shit out for yourself, but we've all been new once. Why stand as an obstacle to someone trying to get into this hobby?

You're the kind of elitist snobs I laugh at and try to stay away from when I bike. Please wear a trip so I can filter you.
>>
Are there any good trails in Central Florida? I just moved here.
>>
>>919852
It varies a lot from city to city, but where I am at least there's a lot of good climbing sort of 15-20 minutes from the city centre.

Melbourne and Sydney aren't quite so fortunate to my knowledge.
>>
>>919989
> I believe the video didn't go into enough detail to fully understand why it was happening
I gave him a Socratic answer, and his response showed that he both didn't follow directions, and chose not to put any critical thought to the matter. He just wants spoonfeeding.
>>
>>919993
>guys how do I fix x
>uh I dunno figure it out for yourself retard you're obviously doing it wrong
>hey this is how you fix x
>WOW CANCER WHY WOULD YOU GIVE ANSWERS IN A BIKE THREAD

Oh I'm laughin
>>
>>919995
He asked why the limit screw doesn't move the cage, and I asked him to consider what causes the cage to move. Then he made it clear he wasn't actually following instructions, and he was just assuming what he thought a limit screw should do and complaining it wasn't behaving the way he assumed it would.
>>
>>919993
You're the SI autist, aren't you?

No-one fucking likes you
No-one wants you here

Fuck off and die.
>>
>>919998
Are you upset that no one has mentioned your name recently, that you had to make a post just to post about yourself, SI autist?
>>
>>920002
No, I'm just sick of assholes making this board less comfy than it should be.
>>
>>920004
Go to reddit or something if you want to be spoonfed.
>>
>>919997
Who gives a shit, Jesus Christ
More retarded questions get answered here all the time, just answer the questions without acting autistic and ride your bikes instead of jacking off to muh board culture

You guys are worse than reddit
>>
>>920009
>You guys are worse than reddit
I am glad you feel this way. Now back from whence ye came.
>>
>>920011
t. A redditor :^)
>>
>>918566
>>918519
This was me until this:
>>
File: i want to die.jpg (104 KB, 846x960) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
i want to die.jpg
104 KB, 846x960
>>918519
>mfw that is me
>>
Does anyone have any tips to cycling in rural areas where the community is unaccustomed to cycling on main roads with cars? Most of the roads are double yellow country roads, 35 or 45 MPH, so I tend to ride as much to the right as I can and rarely take the lane, but everyone who passes me in a car acts like I had committed a crime for bringing a bike out of a cul de sac and putting it on the holy motorist territory. I'm also the only other bike I've ever met in my town. Ever. Not even the kids bike.

Any suggestions outside of moving to a city? I enjoy the hills and winding roads here.
>>
>>920030
open carry
>>
>>920030
Use daytime lights and ignore any haters.

I'm a little surprised to hear your experience, on the rural roads near me I don't think anyone cares if there's a bicyclist going down the road - it's not like there's any traffic to be slowed down...
>>
>>920034
When I lived in flyover land rednecks would throw shit at me, sometimes circle back and yell obscenities out the window.

Rural people are fucking insane and dangerous, I highly recommend avoiding the wasteland between the Hudson River and the Diablo Range at all costs.
>>
>>920036
I live in flyover country and ride on rural roads and nobody cares, take your shitposting and fuck off and die
>>
>>920040
No U, go snort some oxycontin you violent evil redneck
>>
>>920042
>mfw i ride rural highways and motorists wave :^)
>>
>>920048
Signs on all entrance ramps to highways in my town actually state no bikes allowed on it
>>
>>920052
>this nigga thinks highways = freeways
>>
>>920053
There are no freeways in my town, only highways.
>>
How much less is 'cost price' for a retailer than the rrp usual?
>>
How bad of an idea is it to attach a rack to a carbon frame with p clips or otherwise
>>
I'm new to biking. Is there any essential stuff I should get? I was planning on getting a helmet and cyclocomputer to track progress, anything else?
>>
>>920136
Water bottle + holder if you don't already

and a puncture repair kit:
Tyre levers, patches, a spare tube. And something to pump, either a hand pump or CO2 cartridges. You can get everything together in a saddlebag or the like.

A lock (a u-lock, not some flimsy gift ribbon) if you plan to leave your bike in the open.
>>
>>920136

A computer is not really necessary.

Your first priority should be appropriate clothing, so your ass won't get sore/chafe. Maybe gloves, if you have sensitive/sweaty hands. Helmet is personal preference but hey, at least to avoid tickets. A good u-lock+wire is necessary too if you're going to be leaving your bike outside. Also a spare tube, patch kit, tire levers, and a multi-tool, ideally with chain breaker.
>>
>>920138
>>920139
Sounds good, thanks for the quick responses.
>>
>>920125
I wouldn't put a cargo rack on a carbon frame unless there were eyelets clearly designed for that mounting, otherwise you don't really know whether or not the carbon was laid out to accept the weight of a rack on the back end of the bike.

>>920136
you should always carry a patch kit and/or spare tube, some kind of pump/inflator, and a basic multitool
>>
does this bother anyone else? nothing bothers me nearly as much as this when I'm commuting to work on my bike
>vehicles driving with only headlight working
>>
>>920148
only 1 headlight working*
>>
can i mix Dura Ace 9000 Components with a 105 5800 group? buddy of mine replaced his Dura Ace front derailleur which works fine so he would give it to me. Would that fit to a 105 group?
>>
>>920151

Yes
>>
>>920151
ok thanks anon
>>
What am I supposed to do with a gilet?

I got one for Christmas but have yet to wear it because.

>If it's cold I'll talk my jacket to keep my arms warm
>It isn't waterproof so again I'll take my jacket
>It's black and not a bright colour
>It isn't cold enough to wear it underneath my jacket

What's the point of it?
>>
>>920156
light-weight wind protection when you're wearing a thermal jersey or a jersey and armwarmers
>>
>>920157
Well I don't have a thermal jersey or armwarmers so that's a bit of a waste.
>>
File: 674327806.jpg (64 KB, 500x720) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
674327806.jpg
64 KB, 500x720
>>920158
>
they're essential pieces of kit in my closet, you may consider investing in some

pic related, mfw you show up to the group ride underprepared
>>
>>920163
But muh jacket
>>
File: in_content.jpg (206 KB, 588x441) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
in_content.jpg
206 KB, 588x441
>>920169
>but muh jacket
>>
I was thinking about bying specialized awol comp for commuting and general place to place riding, but I would like to ask you guys is there something similar I could get for example a better price?

The conditions being: steel, hyrdraulic disc, 29er and single front chainring.

This would costs probably about 1700€ here.
>>
>>920181
>memegears
>>
>>920181
The AWOL is pretty nice, but the frame is a little in the porky side. On the other hand, most similar bikes are more expensive.

The Soma Wolverine and Salsa Fargo are other options you could look at.
>>
>>920183
Thanks for giving the name for soma wolverine, I've seen that bike around and have not come across it in my research on this.
>>
Do tiagra levers work with cantilever brakes?
>>
>>920210
Yep, road levers and cantis work together, it's V-brakes that are the exception.
>>
>>920212
Great cheers
>>
Any recommendations for a saddle bag? Big enough to fit 2 tubes, CO2, multitool, and tire levers, and a chain tool.
>>
File: Aero-Medium-SO.jpg (43 KB, 368x335) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
Aero-Medium-SO.jpg
43 KB, 368x335
>>920225
I have pic related, topeak wedge pack medium, I think it's a medium. Can fit two tubes multitool, tyre levers, glue etc and can even fit my large wallet in and maybe my phone if I unzip the expansion bit.

Look around though, see what's on sale.
>>
Is this worth £20? I know nothing about MTBs but think it could be fun with some midge handlebars and bar end shifters. Maybe a selle turbo and a nice silver stem. I just don't want to sink cash into a truly awful frame.
>>
>>920244
can't see much detail in that pic, but it looks like an average MTB from the late 90s's - there aren't any obvious signs that's anything special, but nothing is obviously crappy either.
>>
>>920181
>The conditions being: steel

why
>>
File: 1377964652331.jpg (210 KB, 828x993) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
1377964652331.jpg
210 KB, 828x993
>>920260
>he doesn't know steel is real
>>
Should the headtube be parallel with the spacers or am I overthinking this? Seems like it steers fine.
>>
>>920269
Is that with the topcap secure?
>>
>>920269
This is why you don't buy your Specialized Venge off Aliexpress.
>>
>>920271
It's a roubaix I got from my LBS. If I recall correctly it came that way.
>>920270
Yes
>>
>>920270
I'm pretty sure the reason the stem looks like it's at an angle is because he is using one of those specialized variable angle shimmed stems.
>>
>>920269

This could be caused by an improperly seated bottom headset race. My previous bike had this same issue only much more noticeable, and if you turned the bars around at one point it became very hard to keep turning.

Your case looks pretty mild though. I wouldn't worry about it.
>>
>>920278
Well, I have to problem turning it all the way, so I guess I should be fine.
>>
>>918566
>what is a quick release pannier with shoulder strap
>>
>>920328
A milk crate
>>
>>918976
From my experience gear hubs are nightmares
they might last awhile but when they fuck up they fuck up bad and you're gonna be a slave to the LBS to fix it. Just changing the sprocket on my ex girlfriend's Nexus hub took me like a whole day
>>
>>919091
>>919092
p sure cable pull ratio is different on 9 & 10, I dont know if it would fly
8 definitely will not work
>>
>>920332
>>920332
>>919092
>>919091
>>919090
It's much simpler than that, the original question has two parts and they're not hard:
>1. Can a 9-sp Shimano compatible derailer shift a 10-sp Shimano cassette?
Yes.
>2. Can a friction shifter work with that derailer?
Yes - but once you try to friction shift over 9 or more cogs, accurate friction shifting becomes more difficult because the amount of cable pulled to achieve each shift becomes shorter and shorter.
>>
>>920329
so heavy and cumbersome
enjoy swinging yr leg over that
>>
>>920334
Yes but you can't mix and match 8/9 speed indexed shifters with 10 speed derailleurs.
>>
So I have this new bike. When I pedal it by hand and stop, the chain bunches up above the chainstays. If I do not hold the cranks, it spins like a fixed gear. Is it because the new chain is so tacky? The last thing I want to do is to damage my frame.
>>
>>920356
Unless your chain is extremely stiff/lacking in lubricant, the problem is at your freewheel/freehub: something is stopping the mechanism from allowing the cogs attached to the rear wheel to spin when you're not pedaling.

The solution may become obvious if you look closely at what your rear wheel is doing, but it's hard to diagnose via the internet unless you take pictures and tell us more about your setup.
>>
>>920356
Does it bunch up in one spot or in a bunch of different links? Try grabbing the stiff spot and working it back and forth applying pressure with your thumbs, then see if it moves easier. Don't worry, you won't break it.
>>
>>920363
>>920364
I just took the wheel and spun it. There seems to be a lot of friction to coast. Feels like overtightening, or is there a problem with the bearings?
>>
>>920367
First step: look between the cogs and the hub, is something rubbing? Could be as simple as a plastic spoke protector broken off and jammed between the spokes and cogs.
>>
>>920376
It's clear, nothing is touching. It doesn't get stuck all the time, but like every 1/8th of a turn. I'll probably repost this sometime next week. I don't have tools to investigate further. Thanks for the help.
>>
>>920386
It's hard to imagine someone cranking the cone nuts that far too tight, but unless the freehub body is fucked, that's all I can think of
>>
>>920388
Fuck :(
It's a brand new bike too. I had an issue with the fork and was sent a replacement which took 3 weeks to arrive. Would overtightening the cassette lockring cause this?
>>
>>920389
nah, but both scenarios I'm imagining are relatively easy to fix

What kind of bike is it and where did you buy it? Because it seems like it was assembled poorly or is of poor quality.
>>
>>920393
I'll be honest, its from bd. Assembly is horrible thus far
Apart from the issues, all the treads and bearings are bone dry...
>>
>>920399
Can always take it to an LBS and pay to have them give it a once-over.
>>
>>920399
Is it possible to return it?

>>920400
This poster's solution seems more trouble than it's worth.

Probably better off returning it and buyin a good used bike

In either event, it could be a good opportunity to learn how to do some maintenance. It'll save you a fortune in the long run and personally I enjoy it

tinkering on your bae can be very rewarding
>>
Had a 46 crankset bike, went down to 42, do you think I need to change front derailleur to use a 48?
>>
>>920418
Is it a double? Triple?

I think there are limits as to how many teeth you're supposed to have between chainrings, but that aside so long as you move the derailleur up to accommodate the ring it should be fine.
>>
>>920030
I cycle rurally since I licenin a rural area and have no problems. Then again I am in England, American drivers seem awful.
>>
>>920420

Triple, original was 46-36-24 but shit was stripped and the only crankset this cesspool of a town had (and still has) was a 42 because muh mtb. Now it's too slow. By the way it's a 26'' bike.
>>
>>920418
No
>>
Quick question before I have to go out and buy new tubes.
I have two 35-45 tubes, can they fit just fine in my 700x32c marathon plus I just purchased or do I have to go out and buy 25-32 tubes?
I'm asking because they look pretty wide compared to my 35 Sammy slicks.
>>
>>920451
You're fine, the problem with running a larger tube in a smaller tire is that they're prone to pinch flats during initial installation (lots of floppy rubber to get stuck under the tire bead), if you got them installed and inflated they're fine to ride on.


This edition of the bqg is past its bump limit, time for a new thread.
>>
>>920426
That's funny because after having watched US and UK helmet cams of drivers I got the impression that UK drivers are even worse.
Obviously helmet cam videos aren't a balanced source but it's what I've got. I suppose most of them were in urban areas, are your rural drivers better maybe?
>>
>>920402
It's never ridden and i like the frame. Doubt theres any damage, just minor kinks like the wheel issue
>>
>>920260
Because I have never had a steel bike and would like to try one.
>>
>>919886
That bike looks okay, but that bitch looks totally wet. She should really get inside and dry off.
>>
>>920347
Yes, you can, you incompetent clod. Shimano road gear use the same geometry for 8/9/10, meaning any derailleur will work with any shifter. Only the cassette has to match.

That's why all the good 9spd MTB derailleurs were so sought after by the tourers; they can be used with 10spd road levers and accepts mega-cassettes.
>>
I have been building a 1x10 mtb. How do I know how long the chain should be?
>>
File: damageandsupplies.png (2 MB, 816x2448) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
damageandsupplies.png
2 MB, 816x2448
OK /n/, I've got two major questions.

One, the chainstay (2nd from bottom pic) was getting really nicked up on my bike, and when I noticed I put a few layers of masking tape over it. Today, when I peeled it off to take a picture there wasn't any more damage but quite a bit has already been done. I would like to know why the chain might be hitting the chainstay and how to prevent it.

Two, in additon to the chainstay damage there's some old chips on other parts of the frame that have rotten rusty, and I have bought some supplies from various stores to fix them.

The supplies I bought for painting are:
>sandpaper, 60, 150, 220, and 2000 grit
>rust remover gel (phosphoric acid, water, 2-propanol)
>wax/grease remover prep spray
>surprisingly well matched red spraypaint
>clearcoat
>acetone
>rags
>brushes
>masking tape

My plans for painting, from start to finish are:
>mask off about 1cm around area with tape and paper
>sand with 220 (150 as needed if it's rusty or rough) on and within about a half centimeter of the chipped area, trying not to remove metal
>if it's got rust use the rust remover as directed until it's sufficiently gone, careful to keep it off existing paint
>wipe the area clean
>clean lightly with acetone and/or prep spray (I'm not sure about what do do)
>spray some red paint into tray
>brush on a light coat to cover the sanded area, focusing on chipped spot
>sand lightly with 220
>repeat for 4-5 coats
>sand final coat with 220 then 2000
>spray a coat of clear on masked off area
>use buffing compound to blend the clearcoat in with the stock paint

I'd like to know if I should do anything differently or if I'd be doing anything wrong. The bike is a late 80s/early 90s peugeot montreal special, and the paint almost looks like enamel, which I'm a little concerned about.

Also, how would I go about fixing the chips in the decals, Should I just go with the plan I already laid out and do the final coat over the letter area white before clear coating it?
>>
>>922803
*montreal express

my bad
>>
>>922633
same as usual, I thought
Thread replies: 326
Thread images: 42
Thread DB ID: 501004



[Boards: 3 / a / aco / adv / an / asp / b / biz / c / cgl / ck / cm / co / d / diy / e / fa / fit / g / gd / gif / h / hc / his / hm / hr / i / ic / int / jp / k / lgbt / lit / m / mlp / mu / n / news / o / out / p / po / pol / qa / qst / r / r9k / s / s4s / sci / soc / sp / t / tg / toy / trash / trv / tv / u / v / vg / vip /vp / vr / w / wg / wsg / wsr / x / y] [Search | Home]

[Boards: 3 / a / aco / adv / an / asp / b / biz / c / cgl / ck / cm / co / d / diy / e / fa / fit / g / gd / gif / h / hc / his / hm / hr / i / ic / int / jp / k / lgbt / lit / m / mlp / mu / n / news / o / out / p / po / pol / qa / qst / r / r9k / s / s4s / sci / soc / sp / t / tg / toy / trash / trv / tv / u / v / vg / vip /vp / vr / w / wg / wsg / wsr / x / y] [Search | Home]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.
This is a 4chan archive - all of the shown content originated from that site. This means that 4Archive shows their content, archived. If you need information for a Poster - contact them.
If a post contains personal/copyrighted/illegal content, then use the post's [Report] link! If a post is not removed within 24h contact me at [email protected] with the post's information.