Old one maxed
I want a non-carbon road bike. How concerned about rusting a steel frame do I have to be if I want to wash it with a hose in my yard and stuff? I'm considering getting a stainless steel or titanium frame as I'm worried about corrosion.
Corrosion happens when water sits in contact with steel for a long time, much quicker if there's salt dissolved in the water - so washing a steel frame with water is fine as long as it can dry completely after cleaning, and you avoid spraying water into the frame where it can be trapped and form a permanent pool. If you live near an ocean, or somewhere where salt is regularly applied to the roads, you can still use an ordinary steel frame, but in that case it's a good idea to use a rust inhibitor (framesaver) inside the frame and routinely check that your exterior coating (paint/powdercoat) is in good condition.
this is not a bike question in general, but I didn't want to start a own thread.
I really like to build bikes.
I kind of can't stop myselfe from doing it.
what's the best way to turn this into a sort of side buissness.
where is a good place to sell custom bikes and such ?
Buy used components, bikes for cheap, repair, setup nicely, sell for used price+working time.
Offer service/inspection for cyclists.
If you're a decent rider you could think about venturing into rider positioning, personal training too.
Try craigslist, ebay and specialized cycling forums (BUY/SALE threads).
thanks for the input.
I actually do what you mentioned above , but I feel like ebay isn't really a good place for this.
craigslist isn't really a thing where I'm from , I should check some forums.
Stainless steel corrodes too, but slower, and technically even titanium corrodes, but again not like the way steel rusts. My point still stands, aluminium meets the criteria in OPs question, it's non-carbon and you won't need to worry about rust, plus its about 100x easier to find than a stainless or titanium bike.
Hey everyone. I learned how to ride a bike as a kid, but eventually became uninterested in them.
As a result, I haven't owned one for more than a decade.
My question is: what bicycle would you recommend to an absolute beginner?
Purpose? Just general transportation around the city. There are a few inclined bits, but not too many.
Fit and flexible? Yes. I exercise daily and eat healthy. No health conditions that could be an issue to riding.
Money? Well, I'm not exactly on a tight budget, but considering I want to test the waters and see if I enjoy biking, it'd be best if you could recommend one with a reasonable price. In other words, no cheap shit, but no astronomically expensive bikes, either. Price range from 200 to 400 USD, maybe.
Thanks in advance.
I was going to suggest taking this to the bike buy thread... but that seems to have fallen off the board.
That said, that budget is firmly in second hand territory. Your local craigslist/gumtree is going to the be the way to go. If you post that and your height we can help pick some potential rides.
I live in Sao Paulo, Brazil, so the local craigslist/similar websites aren't that active - I couldn't find a single bike for sale upon quick inspection.
As for height, I stand at 183cm or 6ft.
Maybe if you can just suggest a model I can find it on online stores that either ship to or are located in Brazil.
Depending where you live there are for sure classifieds in some sort or another.
Also there's a chance you could do financially well dwelving into kids bikes. Children here are getting their bike driving licence at around age 11 and while often parents are happy to buy new, the used market could definitively be an opportunity.
One problem I see with this kind of aficionado sort of work is that there are loads of people who do the same thing just as cheaply in a more professional environment (LBS) or as a part of a bigger corporation (think Fuji) working with non-used parts.
..just taking shots here.. and I'm relatively new to this cycling thing.
Does anyone have any experience with a Giant cadex cfr I'm sourcing one for a build but idk about the reliability it being lugged alu carbon I've had a trek 2100 lugged Carbon alu but considering there are more carbon joints on the Giant I'm curious if anyone has strong opinions one way or the other
My 2 cents is that when you need to fix, it is time to replace.
One of the reasons I don't buy Carbon is when you crash, it grinds, splinters, and cracks. Aluminum is more impact resistant.
When you have to repair, its usually time to replace. A new frame is not that expensive compared to a tig weld or sending to have carbon glued. 200$ repair vs 5-700 for a decent frame.
Can I replace my 4650 50t tiagra chainring with anything other than the exact same part?
What i'm saying is Id like to use a 5750 50t chainring, it seems to be exactly the same (110 bcd, 10speed, etc.). Will the 'ramps' or whatever voodoo shifting magic be compatible with my 4600 derailleur?
Rollers are vastly better to train on. They help improve your balance and pedaling skills, and they don't put as much stress on your bike as a trainer does. The downside is that they are harder to use than a trainer or even normal riding. You'll probably fall a few times.
Trainers are okay, much easier to use, but it always feels like I'm doing junk miles on mine.
If I had the space, I'd get a good stationary bike like what they use in spinning classes.
I'm putting 700c wheels on an old 27" frame. Anyone have experience with shimano long reach brakes? Also what tire width can these brakes take?
Yes. Shimano has codes like 50-F that determine where the reference point for shift ramps will be. The shift ramps won't be the same, but it will be in the proper orientation. An F type 34t will have the teeth in the same place, so they can design a F type 50t based on knowing where the 34 teeth should be. If you are mixing and matching small rings, like using a 34t FSA, you should see which of the 5 orientations is closest to the original set up, not the FSA orientation. The big ring should always be placed in the proper orientation because it has the chain catcher pin.
>If I had the space, I'd get a good stationary bike like what they use in spinning classes.
This desu, unless you're doing rolled because you're snowed in. Spin bike doesn't put wear on your bike and lets you watch TV and shit more easily.
I have a left over 100$ gift card to the American Dicks Sporting Goods department store, and was wondering what you would blow it on cycling wise if you were in my shoes. I can't be fucked to look through the catalog right now, but only wanted some input as to some suggestions I could use. Anything good I can get, besides a *bike*?
please tell someone who does not give a shit about cycling or biking or w/e you call it, what bike to buy to ride a short distance to/from work every day? there is literally no good information online that makes sense to a beginner, its all for enthusiasts. i rode a bike when i was 9 a few times, i just want it for easy transportation. please help, i have like 500 although id like to spend a lot less.
I'd get a rigid hybrid from a bike shop, sometimes also known as a flat bar road bike. Don't get the one with the shocks, anything but cheap shocks.
If you cared about bikes and wanted a beater and were willing to fix it up, I'd recommend a Schwinn Wayfarer or Admiral, but it sounds like you want something you don't have to think about.
Two questions for you guys:
Will riding a unicycle actually make me a better cyclist? I suppose that there would be a fair bit of CNS adaptation and balance improvement so it kinda interests me.
SEcond question is heavily related: My old frame is died and the fork is still ok, can that actually be recycled into a uni, or will I end up with carbon shards in my gooch lying in the gutter?
If you're in europe or japan, look at mamacharis, or dutch commuter bikes for a basic idea. Key is a casual saddle and riding position. If you have mechanical skill, the steel 10 speed or mountain bike conversion is a good choice.
You're seriously recommending wall mart bikes? That's some serious flat bar retardation you've got going.
Good for pedals, shoes. Won't need lights or saddlebags. Will need shorts and a basic repair kit to throw in my bag I guess. I'm expecting to spend about $200 on ancillary stuff.
The jump in price between the two is pretty substantial here ($1000 to $1500). I know the group set is far better and the carbon seat post isn't a bad idea but I'm more interested in the differing bottom bracket I think.
I used a GMC Denali bike from wal mart to go to a job i had for about 4 months. 5 total miles everyday. It did the job. I totally recommend it. The bike (without helmet or lights or lock) was 200 USD.
You're going to have a wrecked butthole for the first week or so. Depends on how much you weigh. If you're terrified of that, you can get pads for your saddle.
So I've got a Trek 8.3 Hybrid bike from my high school days I got to commute to my job. I'm looking into some gravel riding and endurance stuff in the future. My biggest candidate currently is the Felt V85, as it seems like a good adventure bike for its price. Does anyone have any opinions on the brand/model? Also, would it be insane if I just tried to upgrade the groupset on my 8.3 and add some drop bars? Once I get the V85 I'll never ride the 8.3 again...
There is absolutely nothing wrong with a Schwinn Admiral as a beater bike for someone that knows how to tube up a bike. It is low cost, simple, durable, and comes with rack and fenders.
Asked this in the old thread, and didn't get an answer: how good are Diamondback's bikes. I see them at both real bike stores and at wal-mart type stores, so it's hard to tell where their quality is at.
1. You're much better off getting a proper road bike than trying to fit drop bars on your hybrid, the frame geometry is different so putting drops on would likely require an uncommonly long stem, might produce various component compatibility issure, and the end result wouldn't be comparable to a real road bike.
2. You might not ride the hybrid much in the future but it's always nice to have an alternate/backup/winter-tire-equipped bike.
3. The Felt you mentioned is a fine bike, just keep in mind that "adventure bike" isn't a very particular category, essentially any road bike with clearance for wider tires will work for that kind of riding.
"Diamondback" is a brand name that has changed hands a number of times in recent decades so it's impossible to generalize about their past and present offerings, like most big brand names (Schwinn, Trek, Peugeot, Raleigh), it has been put on both really nice and really shitty bikes at different times.
Like a shitload of other common brands, they're made by Kinesis in China. Their quality is okay.
Why their garbon road bikes exist is a mystery to me tho. I can't imagine that anyone's going to go out and drop $5K on a DB fred sled instead of a Terk or something.
>"Diamondback" is a brand name that has changed hands a number of times in recent decades so it's impossible to generalize about their past and present offerings, like most big brand names (Schwinn, Trek, Peugeot, Raleigh)
I don't get what you're trying to imply. Diamondback was bought, merged with Raleigh, then sold with Raleigh to someone else. Trek has been family owned for pretty much all of it's history.
Has anyone from /n/ ever met up? Have you ever met anyone and then found out they were a secret /n/ user?
I know some cyclists who go on /r/bicycling and /r/cycling but I don't know if I've ever met another /n/igger.
Theoretical question: wouldn't smaller wheels be better for city riding?
1. Smaller wheel means less rotating mass means faster acceleration. Seems ideal for stop start riding
2. Rarely pot holes long enough to worry about small wheel getting stuck.
It's this correct?
I want a 20" wheel, 2" tire city bike with with... Do bars, and disc brakes, and a fucking rear rack. And fenders. And rolhoff. And belt. Carbon shit everywhere. 15 lbs. Make it happen. Where is it
The DB Century bikes look decent. Not any better than another other bike in the price range, but nothing that really stands out either.
People on /n/ have met up before, but not frequently. We've seen joint pics from tripfags from San Fran, anons in Colorado, and I want to say there was at least one meetup somewhere else I can't recall, Toronto? But really, people on 4chan aren't here to be sociable.
Full-size bikes are better for visibility and ergonomics, and city blocks/speeds are generally such that you don't really get an advantage from smaller wheels. If you really want that dream bike, all you have to do is commission a custom minivelo frame...
is this close enough?
say what you will.... at least you won't see many other people riding the same bike
Any suggestions for gloves that actually protect from the cold, would protect against skidding in a crash and offer reasonable maneuverability for switching gears?
I'm thinking I need to find a pair of light leather winter gloves or something.
>Any suggestions for gloves that actually protect from the cold, would protect against skidding in a crash and offer reasonable maneuverability for switching gears?
auto mechanics gloves offer some protection while still having dexterity. the all-synthetic models (most of them) are machine washable too. brand names are $20-$30 and generics at places like harbor freight are $7-$12. winter water-proof versions use neoprene, they're good for short rides, but eventually your hands get very sweaty and they take much longer to dry out.
If that were true, you'd see smaller wheels on track bicycles intended for short courses. But you don't.
When you model the kinetic energy that goes into keeping the bicycle at a certain speed, you see that the increased moment of inertia of a large wheel is pretty much canceled out by the decreased rotational speed.
So you might as well go for large diameter wheels, and enjoy the lower rolling resistance.
I have a line on some KCNC CB1s for $75, or C7s for $105. I'm not sure which one to get. Annoyingly, they may be missing the TI nuts.
CB1s used to be well reviewed back when there weren't many options, but are flexy, and stock pads gave them exceptionally poor performance. C7s are supposed to be a straight upgrade in performance, but some people still call them flexy. Not sure what to do, but either one will lose significant weight over my stock boat anchors.
Trading braking performance for marginal weight savings is a bad deal - don't forget that effective brakes make you faster by freeing you to carry more speed on descents and brake less often.
>Trading braking performance for marginal weight savings is a bad deal
It makes my 105 group lighter than an Ultegra group. I'm not a heavy weight either.
>don't forget that effective brakes make you faster by freeing you to carry more speed on descents and brake less often.
This is really not a benefit to me because I'm not racing anyone downhill.
Feltboy here, trying to get more into the hobby, hard to do without cyclist friends irl, so I'm gonna ask you. So basically gravel riding (never done it) can be done just fine with any road bike? Obviously tread would make the job a bit easier, but a road bike would come out in one piece after, say, a 100 mile ride on a gravel and dirt road? Because the way I understand it, if you wanna get a road bike and have it versatile, just get one with clearance for wider tires?
Have you ever felt a pair of aluminum brake calipers in your hands? like the actual weight, then compared it with another?
Literally the poop in your colon will still weigh more than the weight you'll be saving after spending nearly 100 bones.
don't buy upgrades, ride up grades.
You can take a road bike with regular skinny tires and ride gravel roads all day if that's what you've got, you're much more likely to do permanent damage to your bike and wheels riding around in a city where there are big potholes and curbs that can be bashed into.
And it's larger volume tires that are really beneficial (they dampen more vibration and allow you carry more speed through sand and loose gravel), tire tread isn't particularly important unless the gravel is especially loose or muddy.
Yeah but the core of my question is about stop start city riding, where acceleration trumps momentum.
I need to get a hooligan
I am convinced a fat tire 20" or 24" is ideal for pure acceleration on downtown city streets. It's just nobody wants to look like a dork on a folder bike so the market is full of lame stuff
Not him but holy shit. I'd this legit?
I always figured the reason for large wheels was for bumps and holes, ones where a smaller diameter wheel would fall in our hit too hard. Hence the appeal of 29ers. I'm expecting a larger size to get hyped one day
>the Velodrome ride happened to take place on the 51 year anniversary that Dr Alex Moulton saw four Moulton riders lap their big-wheeled adversaries in front of a packed velodrome in Coventry, in the 4,000 metre four man pursuit.
>Back in 1963, The Daily Mail said: “Spectators laughed when a team of cyclists rode to the starting line of a 4000-metre challenge race yesterday on minibikes with only 17” wheels. But the four Fairy Cycle kids of Coventry went off from the gun like a shot and thrashed their opponents, a team from Leicester, riding conventional 27” wheeled machines, by 220 yards.”
Had the same interest 10 months ago and got a used ~300-400 EUR, 9kg road bike with alloy frame, Ultegra groupsets, etc..
Took it in for a check, rode it a LOT with flat shoes. Got updates like clipless pedals and some tools like a pump.
Really fun and worth it, addictive, look if you can find smth similar.
Sorry for the blog.
Yes I have. BR-5800s are heavy, 200g each, almost a pound for the pair. Either KCNC is less than half of that, and over half a pound of weight loss. You're implying I don't already poop before rides. You seem very much bitter about nice things. Enjoy your shitty weinmanns.
Paying an extra $100 for 200g isn't bad but it's not the best. That's 2g per $. I'd bet even your bike has 4g per $ upgrades you haven't done
Time to get insane. Weigh every part on your bike, make excel spreadsheet.
Grams on current part - grams on potential replacement / price of replacement
Doing this, you'll get the most efficient upgrade path (and become full psycho)
What's the best inexpensive handlebar / stem phone mount?
>Paying an extra $100 for 200g isn't bad but it's not the best.
It's a 225g difference, it's quite a bit.
>I'd bet even your bike has 4g per $ upgrades you haven't done
It does not. I've taken every 2g+ per $ upgrade available short of latex tubes, tubulars, and bolt-on skewers. I've done almost everything I could without touching the components and consumables and Chinese garbon and SRAM.
If you want a list:
8g top cap/alloy bolt $4
7g expander plug $12
1130g XR-200 wheels $275
5g veloplugs $10
10g seatpost clamp $7
36g ti skewers $18
19g braze on adapter $3
245g handlebars $20
100g stem $15
4g 6x alloy m5 bolts $2
67g tubes $5
200g tires $15
6g 3x 5mm poly carbonate spacers $5
30g bottle cages $1
185g padded saddle $20
170g cut down seatpost $15
240g pedals $30
Tell me I haven't done every cheap weight loss upgrade.
I already have a spreadsheet on dollars to gram.
Where did you find that besides fairwheel which hasn't had them or a while? The last line I had on C6 was aliexpress for $115, but they stopped selling them, so I turned to used KCNC brakes. The CB1 is 160g, the C7 is 165g, I gave their prices at $75 and $105 respectively.
mini velo are great. a couple of years ago soma sold a really nice one but sadly nobody bought it
i'd love to have one of pic related but with di2 or something
China plastic bottle cages are 30-35g depending on design and individual variance, and cost $1. There's some more expensive Tacx plastic cages that are 23g, and carbon cages under 20g, which I actually have some of too, but I got them when ICAN was selling them for $5 each.
>Is that the RIM weight or the whole wheelset weight? If the latter, how??? Presumably not much in the aero though?
It's not aero at all. Also made a typo, 1230g, but still very light. The build is Kinlin XR-200 rims, Sapim Lasers or China-CX-ray-clones(all the same weight, clones made by Pillar or CNspoke), alloy nipples, and Bitex/Taiwanese RAF9/RAR10 hubs.
I'm migrating parts over to a new build, but one of the old builds with most of those parts was under 7kg with a full 5800 groupset, and under 16lbs with pedals and cages.
Depends how hardy you are. I think that's about the coldest it gets down here and I made do with non-thermal bib-tights.
It feels like legs don't need as much insulation because they're the ones doing all the work.
the problem with denim is even if you wear jeans loose enough to give you full freedom of movement (hip hop style or 90s dad jeans) it's a heavy fabric and the weave is course enough to really rub. casual riding you don't notice but 40k you can rub the hairs off your knees and above, your skin will probably chafe to some degree. wearing shorts under is a better idea but i'd avoid jeans if possible. don't you have some long underwear that could go between?
jeans do a fair job blocking wind chill, though. be careful.
Does anyone have any advice for getting over the psych aspects of an accident? I was struck from behind at the crest of a hill and now it's hard to trust that the cars I hear coming up behind are capable of overtaking properly.
I really want to feel as comfortable as I did on the roads before it happened again.
I have been hit by drunk drivers on my motorcycle a FEW times. One time I rode after smoking pot on my road bicycle and thought every car was gonna hit me...The trick is knowing that you are already dead, and its what time you have left on this planet to have fun with...
if its 1 day or 100 years, we are all going to die anon, get out and ride
Just browsed reddit a little and came up with this.. still have an Ultegra groupset... sheeeeit
Thanks, kind anons. Time heals I hope.
I'm not good at green texting, but here it goes:
>two minutes from home after work
>reach tip of last hill where it flattens out
>cruising, catching breath
>hear a car from behind
>sharp bang, flop to the side away from the car (thank fuck)
>fucker speeds off
>silver car, taxi plate is all I could see
>several cars drive past with me lying there
>trying to work out if I can move
>by the time I work out I'm not dead, a car does stop
>front of their car is fucked
>hit them turning at a junction then sped off up the hill
>bruised ass and elbow
>thought bike was okay
>later find out bike is actually fucked
>they never got the driver
I think he didn't have enough time to react due to him speeding up the steep hill and checking behind him so I took a windshield to the ass. Physical injuries weren't bad at all, but the sound of cars coming up fast from behind just triggers a reaction.
1. remove dustcap in the middle of the crankarm (pin spanner, or just jam something pointy into one of the holes and turn)
2. remove the crank fixing bolt with a 14mm socket
3. use a thread crank extractor to pull the crank arm off the bb spindle (pic related)
>hit and run
There's a special place in hell for people who do this (they run blindfolded through an endless maze for all of eternity, the floor is hot ash and the walls of the maze are studded with cattleprods).
Youtube is where I go for "how to's", they usually have the simple ones that will walk you through, then If I have some complex questions I come to my /N/iggas for help (pic related, I am building one)
I want to buy a bicycle, I live in Victoria Australia, there are hundreds of 2nd hand road bikes for sale around me.
I want to spend under $150. What do I avoid? What do I look for?
I want to use the bike for camping and then later touring.
Are all of these shit?
Columbus/Tange/Reynolds tubing, or actually anything but hi-ten
Integrated brake levers/shifters
Out of the ones you posted, the fourth one is by far the nicest.. except for that retarded backwards seatpost.
If you can't find a necessary tool close at hand in your immediate environment, try using your capabilities as a social primate to buy, borrow, or hire that tool from another member of your species.
Previous anon is right on, only thing he failed to mention is sizing: you need a bike that's not so big that you can't straddle it, and not so small that you can't fit comfortably on it. The most important measure is the length of the frame's seattube, which needs to be proportional to the length of the rider's legs/height.
Just to comment on the bikes you've posted, all 6 of those appear to have roughly the same size frames, to suit riders 5'10" - 6'2"
My first road bike was a Panasonic with all of the above. lol The crank I swapped to a Sram. The levers are now modern, the rust was sanded and errr waxed. Still kept the 27s, cause they roll really nice.
Anyone try an ISM Adamo? I'm finding it one of the most uncomfortable saddles I've ever tried. The entire back section is useless because from front pokes into your legs, and the front isn't quite wide enough for me, so it only gives me support in a very aggressive position. But if I'm that far forward, there's no lose at all, and it doesn't feel stable. I did ziptie it and it did help, but I'm thinking something with a vestigial nose like Selle SMP may be better for me.
Got back from my ride lads.
Ended up doing 52km, I'm rather sore.
Tracksuit bottoms worked, I used elastic bands round the ankles and pulled them up like shorts though because I actually got too hot.
Longest ride I've done, stopped for 30 mins halfway and got a mcdonalds lel.
I've learnt that
>I definitely need bar ends because my wrists fucking hurt after being in the same position for ages
>I need a new saddle. After about 18k maybe my arse starts to hurt and it gets worse
>there are hills in my area that are absolute cunts
>for some reason cars overtaking me doesn't scare me at all, even the bloke who sped past at 60mph half a metre away from me, this is probably a bad thing I shouldn't trust cars that much
Any bar ends you lot would recommend?
What about saddles? I know it's subjective and varies by person. I'd probably be looking for a touring saddle since I do longer distances, also I tend to sit a bit forward and can definitely feel the pressure in my perineum area.
>I definitely need bar ends because my wrists fucking hurt after being in the same position for ages
you did 52km on a flat bar? please tell me you're not also running knobby tires.
i'm not sure there's much difference between bar ends but i could be wrong. they're tubular aluminum attached to a clamp. aside from relief of hand fatigue, they give great leverage on those cunty hills you mentioned.
>I tend to sit a bit forward and can definitely feel the pressure in my perineum area.
no saddle recs, but you can fiddle with pointing the nose down some if you haven't already
a little variation is allowed, just don't do anything drastic. downward a few mm to a cm or so shouldn't have any adverse effect and you should really notice a benefit on your gooch. too far and you slide forward, makes even more pressure on your hands. just use common sense and fiddle for a while.
And I posted why that was uncomfortable. There's no purpose to having the back of the saddle, as there's no way to comfortably sit on it, and like I said, it's hard for me to get in a position where the front supports me just right. And when I mean the back, I mean the widest part. There's no way to sit on it comfortably.
So I just got a bent valve stem.
Last night I got a flat and had to use my shitty hand pump to fill it, and the thing is bent at like a 45 degree angle now.
Is this thing fucked now?
I made it home alright and it seems fine today, but is it gonna shoot off and kill me or something?
Hell if I'm gonna just throw away this perfectly good $4 tube for no reason. That's a lot of money.
Hey fellas. I had my heart set on a Singular Peregrine. To me, it was the perfect bike. Geometry and spec wise it was perfect. A gravel runner with big clearance, rack mounts, comfy geometry and classic looking (that fork with the crown..so rare these days).
They are not being made anymore. I'll keep checking eBay but since I was just planning to slowly save up for it this doesn't give me a realistic goal. (What if I can't find my size when I'm ready to buy etc..)
Can anyone show me alternatives to this bike? I know there's lots of the same type, "monster cross" bikes, but they all have sloping top tubes from what I've seen. Call me fussy but i just can't stand it. So /n/, help me find my new dream bike, please!
The only real drawback to V-brakes is that they require V-brake specific levers.
If it's still holding air, run until failure. But I would expect that the bend in the valve is going to lead to breakage at some point, and then yes, it will be fucked.
I don't know offhand of other new bikes or frames to recommend, but one option you might consider is finding an 80's touring frame and equipping it to go offroad. Pic related was something I owned a couple years ago and it was super fun for fire roads and light MTB use.
It's a shit Walmart bike and the current owner looks to have done something dumb with the handlebars - it's not worth anymore than its scrap metal value.
How tall are you and what's your budget like? Tell us and we can browse your CL for better options.
Can someone help me out? I just got a brand new Giant Defy 5 2014, and it rides pretty smooth. The only problem ive been having with it that sometimes the chain will fall off when changing from the big ring to the small ring, sometimes vice versa. The front derailleur looks like its adjusted correctly, everything is stock with the Claris group set. Do I have to just break the bike in more since it's relatively new, or do you guys have any suggestions as to what might be causing this?
Any recommendations for daily commute bikes? Going to be cycling to college soon and the journey is mostly uphill/slope, about 20mins with my current shitty bike.
Poor college student so only have about 500 to spend.
Hey that's not a bad idea. I have a Bridgestone RB-2 but sadly it has no rack or fender mounts and no canti brake mounts. That shogun looks really good and quite perfect for what I'm thinking of.
Your high/low limit screws are set wrongly, I would assume. Go to youtube and check derailleur adjustment, I think GCN did a nice video on it.
I used to drop chains all the time, I set the screws, now no more problems.
Only downside is that your shifts might take an extra half second to catch the bigger ring, b/c the throw of the derailleur might not be as long.
Cheer, nice bike Giant makes really nice frames.
There's not much in that price range that isn't garbage...
Might be a little small, but close enough I think.
Likewise a little small but should work
perfect, a steal for the price even if the bartape is dirty, I'd expect the seller will likely have some basic pedals they could include for you
Another okay option, 2nd best of the four I found here
This one is a kid's mountain bike, unless you can shrink from 6' to 4'6" it's not going to work.
The problem almost certainly that your front derailer's limit screws aren't adjusted properly. Read/watch one of the many der. adjustment tutorials online.
Since you already have a bike, your most affordable option may be to make it less shitty, show us what you're starting with?
I found a few more:
Another decent possibility, your size, definitely serviceable
Even better still, a steal at that price even if it does need tubes and a little work
Will need a saddle and probably a tuneup and tires, but cheap even considering that
Finds keep coming, I think this may be the best quality:price find yet, start here.
goddamnit it /n/, i rode into a recessed grate hiding deep at the bottom of a puddle and went flying at 30-40km/h
Pulled my bike onto the side of the road and bled on it in the rain for a while fixing a flat and straightening the stem then rode the 10km home.
LBS trued the rear wheel and now i notice the frame is bent. Well... It's too small for me anyway. I raced it on 160km of hills last month with a shorter 130mm stem but trying to get it to fit is really just a wild goose chase, so fuck it. It tracks reasonably well and can still be ridden no hands.
I can still ride this while i sort something else out right? Is it fucked or absolutely fucked?
but on the other hand, if it's too small, it's probably not worth trying to fix - you'll never be able to resell that frame, and finding a new, proper sized replacement will probably cost about the same as the repair process (and probably less if you add the cost of a repaint to the repair).
Hey /N/, Long time no see. In the two years since I was last here I have become horrendously unfit and am now part of the gas guzzling masses.
Decided to come back to cycling but being a landwhale, I now will probably snap a roadbike in half, so have decided to go for a meatier cyclocross bike.
Need to keep this as cheap as possible for now so narrowed it down to two options
VooDoo Limba, ugly and about £85 more expensive than my other choice, but the frame looks more rugged, and has gears
Verenti Isolation, one gear, frame looks a bit flimsy in comparison to the voodo. However the bike looks stunning, and the price is insanely cheap at Wiggle.
What should I go for?
I'm having problems shifting. I tightened the cable for the front derailleur, but still having problems. The derailleur is stuck in the smallest gear. If I hold the shift lever down and then rotate the pedals, the chain can switch to the second gear. However, the lever doesn't click, and as soon as I let go the derailleur goes back to the small gear. I'm going to go buy penetrating oil today, but idk if that will fix it. The lever can shift the derailleur enough to get the chain to the next gear, the problem is there's no click and the derailleur won't stay there once I let go of the shift lever.
You've tightened the cable too much and the limiter srews on the derailleur is set wrong. Unscrew the one that says 'H' a quarter of a turn at a time untill it upshifts the way you want it to.
Possibly DR is also not in line with chainring, and/or has slipped and is at the wrong height. It should be 3-4mm above the chainring teeth when on the largest ring.
>what are the Cons of V-brakes?
On an old CX bike my Shimano compact cantilevers fit in the available space but when I tried to fit various Avid, Tektro and TRP V-brakes the arms or noodles all interfered with my rear rack.
Road bikes need special levers with longer cable pull or the V-Brakes need to be designed for road brake levers otherwise you'll have lots of trouble trying to get the levers to work correctly. The plus side is that with the correctly levers V-brakes have great mechanical advantage - they stop really well.
Hit me with a recommendation: trek domane 2.0 or giant defy 2 disc. Have test ridden both, both feel great. Both tiagra. Only difference is treks funky seat suspension thingy and discs vs rim brakes. I couldn't get a good feel for the disc brakes in a test ride because they needed to get broken in, I guess.
Personally I'd go for the bike with rim brakes at this point, road disc setups haven't been around long enough to be cheaply/readily maintained or repaired, and don't actually give much improvement to brake performance unless you're doing a lot of wet weather riding.
I live on the west coast where we are likely to get a fair amount of rain in the next few months, which I would ride in since the plan is for this bike to do double duty as a commuter.
doggy, if you live in regular california, you don't need discs.
people have been able to stop on wet and muddy roads with rim brakes for nearly a century.
water didn't just now develope a new degree of wetness that makes rim brakes obsolete.
a real consideration is actually, that rim brakes might still be more stopping power than you need on the road. You can have all the stopping power in the world, but if you're running tires less than 36mm, you're more likely to lose contact with the road and slide.
As someone with minimal idea what I'm doing, should I try to trouble shoot fit problems myself or just pony up the cash for a basic bike fit?
I have knee pain in my right leg after any ride with climbing or more than 10mi.
I live in Cali, and to be honest, I want discs just because I live in a hilly area. Brake power is barely adequate, but that's not the problem. The problem is descents are long enough that I end up with shards of aluminum in the pads half the time, and I'm always cleaning my pads, and rims always show lots of wear.
I unscrewed the H screw a full 360 but it didn't help. Are you sure that's the problem? From what I've read the H screw is only for the position of the derailleur. That's not the problem though, the derailleur is exactly where it needs to be. Right now I'm in first gear. If I push the shift lever, the derailleur moves over second gear like it should, and if I rotate the pedals the chain moves over to second gear and everything is fine.
The problem is, it doesn't stay like this. I have to keep pressing the shift lever, as soon as I let go the derailleur moves back to first gear. I think the shift lever is supposed to 'click' when I push it, but it doesn't click.
So the derailleur moves where it's supposed to move, it just doesn't stay there and downshifts back to first gear as soon as I release the shift lever
I have a 26" rim, and a set of 40 triple butted spokes. I want to build a 10 speed drive wheel with disc brake.
I can only build a 2x 36h wheel with my current spokes. Is this strong enough or should i buy more spokes to make it a 3x wheel?
My assumption that it was the FD high limit was because your shifter wasn't able to click into position, was getting caught on the limit.
Next step, can you shift by manually pulling the cable? If yes, the problem is in the shifter itself, either it's gunked up and needs to be flushed with light oil, or inside the shifter one of the detents that holds the cable in place with a 'click' is broken.
2x will be fine as long as you have a good quality, stiff rim and assuming you're not an extra-heavy rider.
Because spoke angle is how you measure how tangential a spoke is to a hub. The reason 2x is acceptable on a 24h rim, is because moving the spoke a hole over, a cross, results in a bigger change, because the rim is divided into 24 parts instead of 36.
Well yes it does make sense that you need to use 2x for a typical 24h hub, but on a 36h I still don't understand why 2x (or even 1x for that matter) would not work. The wheel might not be as laterally stiff, but as long as it's anything but radial, the wheel will still be able to transfer torque, so what does it matter what the angle is?
What do you mean "shift by manually pulling the cable"? I can move the derailleur into place, either by moving it directly by hand or by pushing the shift lever. But, it won't stay there, so once I let go it just goes back to first gear.
I looked up a video for flushing the shifters, they said I need a degreaser first, then do the oil... At this point I think I'm ready to just take it to the bike shop down the street and see if they can fix it
What he means if pull the cable away from the downtube.
Undo the cable, and pull it by hand with only moderate force, and see if it shifts and clicks. If not, then just spray the fuck out of the shifters with WD-40.
Which way am I pulling? Am I pulling the shifter or the derailer?
I don't have WD-40, I've got Boeshield T-9... and it's a squirt bottle not a spray bottle, but it looks like everybody else uses the spray instead. Oh well.
Do I just open the shifter up and squirt oil all over it?
Oh god help me. I'm so sick of all this dirt getting up in my components.
How can I figure out if I have enough clearance for proper fendies with my fat Gatormemes?
I don't wanna give up the memes, but this shit is unbearable.
Am I fugged?
That fork is too narrow for any full size fender, but you could use a set of clip-on fenders.
Do those actually work to protect my bike from dirt? I've heard /n/ say they only protect the rider (which I don't give a shit about).
My fork is more expensive than the rest of the bike combined, so they ain't no way I'm changing it, but my entire existence has become dirt and mud and I've lost control of my life.
It takes me hours to scrub every nook and cranny of my derailleurs.
Also I have eyelets for them, so somewhere there has to be a fender that fits, right? Why would they put them there if it doesn't?
What about these? http://www.amazon.com/CRUD-RoadRacer-MK2-Road-Fenders/dp/B00435NFKA
Shelder McBrown says they'll probably fit clearance-wise (I can jam a 4mm allen key in), but this whole width thing is scaring me.
The problem is my front tire is 32c, so if anything I think those fenders will be too narrow.
Is this kind of thing DIYable at all? I'm no stranger to ghettoing up my bikes, and I refuse to believe this hasn't been done a million times before by people trying to turn their bikes into tourers.
Can't I just like, staple together some beer cans and find a way to mount it on there? What specifically is stopping me?
I live in the Pacific Northwest.
The weather is always really bad.
What interests me is stuff like pic related, where it just bypasses the calipers entirely.
Is there anything like this that would even fit a 32mm tire?
I know I can't be the first person to need this.
How can I put a rack on my bike when it has no eyelets for one? In the spring I want to do some bike camping and I'd rather not haul everything in a backpack for 40 or so miles. Any suggestions?
That one's easy.
P-clamps are the cheapest damn thing at your hardware store and they're magical.
I'm pretty much mechanically retarded and I can do it just fine.
I've never tried to go on a tour or anything with them, but they're surprisingly robust.
If you're carrying enough weight to make them fail you've probably already fucked up your wheels and frame from that much weight.
If you're looking for something sturdier (and like way more expensive) they also sell these things that clamp to your seatpost.
It's not necessary for most people, but it sounds like you're probably carrying some serious shit.
Okay I see
I'm only talking about carrying about 30-40lb, I doubt that will be enough to make anything break. Small tent, bedding, small propane stove+food and spare noncycling clothing.
I might also check this out. Road DLX, supposedly locks into the dropouts and then attaches to the break caliber bolt.
it doesn't connect to the dropout in the same way.
if it doesn't have eyelets, you're putting stress on parts of the frame that weren't supposed to hold weight.
it'll get really flexy and uncomfortable.
look into some old man mountain racks.
they connect to your axle and provide a more rigid platform
I lubed the fuck out of the shifter and it still won't "click". I'm pretty sure I need a new shifter but this one's old and looking around a bit I can't find this exact shifter. Pic related is what the shifter looks like, shimano three speed. How interchangeable are shifters? Can I just get a different three speed shifter or should I contact shimano and see if they can find a replacement?
I'm working a 1x9 commuter.
it's my first geared bike to be honest.
I'm setting up the rear derailure right now and the smallest cog keeps jumping and rattling ,regardless of the limit screw.
I used a cassette lockring from a 7 speed cassette , could that be the problem ?
If you can fit a 4mm allen key in, I'd go ahead and order some standard fenders and see if they'll fit your fork. I've run 35mm tires under both standard SKS and Planet Bike road fenders, so they'll definitely handle your 32s. If it turns out the fork is too narrow for the fenders, you can do a modification as pictured here.
If it's in decent shape that price would be a steal where I live.
What is jumping, the cog or the chain?
If the cog is moving around on the freewheel body (the rest of the cassette would be sliding a little too) then the problem is likely that you've put a 9-sp cassette on an 11-sp compatible freehub body, in which case you'd need to add a 2.8mm spacer.
If the chain, first, make sure when you're setting the limit screw that there's no tension on the derailer cable that's blocking the derailer's range of motion, that's a common mistake. Report back after trying that.
Given the age of that shifter, I would not be surprised if it was worn beyond use at this point. Shimano triple front shifters are interchangeable with the exception of 'road triple' shifters made in the past few years.
derailure guy here,
limiscrew adjustments have been done without cabletension (after doing it wrong yesterday)
it's the chain , it's noisy when i pedel lightly and starts skipping , as if it was about to switch gear when I pedal harder.
when shifting the chain skips gears while going up , but usually not when going down.
that's improper cable tension , right ?
Which one should I get /n/?
Don't buy from Ali.
LOOK is 100% fake, no, it's not the original factory, no it's not the same molds, it's a crudely reverse engineered counterfeit that is basically a Lolex. LOOKs are made in either France or Africa, not China.
Same goes for the S-Works. Fake, the real is made in Taiwan by Merida. Merida has no reason to sell gray market Specialized because Merida owns 49% of Specialized. Like LOOK, this basically means Specialized has their own dedicated facilities, they don't subcontract. Merida is not going to undermine their Specialized sales by selling fake Specialized biked. Specialized also was the one that did the article on counterfeits.
Also, Aliexpress protection is shit.
I actually have a pair of retardedly wide Planet Bikes sitting around right now. I wanna say they're 60mm.
If I'm gonna cut and mount fenders around the brakes, wouldn't these wide ones offer even more protection than ones that fit snugly?
Is there any benefit to having fenders twice as wide as your wheels, or would this actually hurt it?
Wouldn't they deflect even more water?
I guess I'm just wondering if the only reason people keep their fenders so thin is because they have issues getting it to fit through, or if there's more to it than that.
Just bought a brand new bike, ~700 dollaroonies, and having ridden it 4 times in total, ive noticed that the chain drops when shifting into the small ring, the big ring clicks in every gear, the rear cassette skips gears and sometimes doesn't even make the switch from 3 to 4, and sometimes I cant even switch into the big ring without having to smash the lever a couple of times.
I know these are all *fixable* problems, but that's not really what im after here. I had the bike for maybe a week, and it is operating poorly for a brand new bike. I'm going to take it back to the local bike shop that I bought it from and ask for them to fix it free of charge for me, having just patronized them and being sold a product below my expectations of the price point.
What i'm really asking here is that am I justified in asking for them to fix it free of charge? I feel pretty angry that the bike is functioning so poorly considering I went out of my way to purchase a brand new bike.
If you have ridden it, they will most likely not take a return. Most shops offer the first gear and brake tune-up for free. My local shop does gears and brakes for free for life.
When (if) you ever decide to shop for a new bike, be sure to ask all the shops about what services, warranties, etc are included with the bike because that's what the shop is there for.
Yes, all of those things sound like issues that should have been resolved/prevented before the bike was sold. If they don't fix them, demand your money back and leave the bike there.
Using wider fenders then necessary generally isn't done because it means more weight and clearance issues - having fenders that more closely follow the contours of the tire will catch more spray (think shallow bowl vs. deeper bowl), but it's not a huge difference. Since the wider fenders are what you've got, they'll do just fine, it's not worth spending more for a very slight difference in performance.
I wouldn't risk riding on those myself.
>sometimes I cant even switch into the big ring without having to smash the lever a couple of times.
That happens to my bike even after the shop gave it a service.
What I have to do is stop pedalling, push the lever in and it the chain moves to the big ring instantly. if I'm pedalling whilst changing it fucks up.
I know but I can't fucking work out what is causing it. I've fiddled to no end with the front derailleur and it makes no difference, maybe it's the shifter itself?
Anyway I need to buy some winter gloves, are winter gloves breathable? I don't want to get some and then find out they're too hot. Waterproof ones btw.
varies hugely from vendor to vendor, and an unfortunate problem is that vendors rarely continue for more than a few months under the same name. some of them make slim, aggressively cut kit for the chinese domestic market and others make big, baggy garbage for frog-leg-stuffed europeans. the real risk is that you won't be able to return whatever you buy because shipping will cost more than the item. ask the vendor for actual timestamped pictures because sometimes they steal photos from each other. there's a huge range of quality in materials, printing, construction and cuts. but if you have an average body type you'll probably find something that works for you without too much trouble. if you find a manufacturer that fits you well, stick with them. you're rolling the dice, but you can still roll the dice 3 or 4 times before you end up paying the cost of an authentic castelli kit or whatever
>LOOKs are made in either France or Africa, not China.
I'd rather have a chinese made frame than an african made frame desu
you're right that the vast majority of aliexpress frames are reverse engineered counterfeits, but there are some genuinely acceptable "open mold" frames on there. usually, however, those aren't the ones painted to look like certain brands, they're just left blank or painted as some chinese brand. a lot of giants, for example, are made on these molds. just do your research and don't trust an article from specialized -- they have an interest in portraying fake frames negatively (that is, they would be likely to pick a bad frame to compare against their own)
and protection is shit (because it's cost prohibitive to ship it back), you just have to get something cheap enough that it doesn't matter. if it arrives broken you can always contest it with your credit card
these are all big problems. not even problems that should be fixed in a free tune up but problems that should have been fixed before it was even sold. if it's brand new that makes it even worse. the shop mechanic probably fucked it up (speaking as a shop mechanic), and they need to make it right at no cost to you. if it's broken, maybe it needs to be fixed under warranty, but it's more likely that it was set up poorly, rather than both shifters/derailleurs going bad this quickly. I find it hard to believe these problems didn't come up on a test ride (and if you didn't take one, there's your mistake) but it's still the shop's problem, not yours. take it in and tell them (don't ask them) to make it right, if they're not complete pieces of shit they'll fix it, and if they are then you can start complaining to managers/corporate/the BBB/the municipal business council/facebook/twitter/the news/etc
looks to be that way, don't even try to fix it or work around it. that's a very high stress area on the frame and if you take it out and put some power down, the entire frame is going to buckle under you. rest in peace.
could be the shifters, could be the derailleur, could be the cable. the chain itself shouldn't actually move while you're not pedaling. did you mean it moves over once you start pedaling again?
>did you mean it moves over once you start pedaling again?
I did yes. If I shift from the 2nd to 3rd chainriing whilst pedalling it makes an awful noise and refuses to move over. If I stop pedalling, shift, then continue it goes to the 3rd chainring easily.
I'm afraid I don't know exactly what could be causing it without having it in front of me and troubleshooting it, but it sounds to me like the problem lies with the derailleur. how old is it? could the return spring be old or worn?
My drivetrain clicks on every revolution. After careful examination, cleaning and a lot of headbanging against the wall, I've determined that the noise is coming from the upper jockey wheel on my RD (Campy Veloce). It moves about 1mm side to side every time I pedal, which I don't remember it doing before, when I bought it new. I tried tightening it but it's as tight as it can.
Is this tiny lateral movement normal? Should I grease it or something?
That lateral motion is normal, it allows the chain to more easily locate the next cog when you shift. If the noise is actually coming from there, I would expect that there's a little bit of grit trapped inside the pulley.
if it's been like that since new take it back to the shop. I would have taken it back day one but they should still take a look at it, hopefully for free, and at the very least tell you what's wrong with it
It's been to long and the shop is shit, I'd have to pay for it properly.
Honestly, I can't even remember if I did have this problem after they serviced it initially, or whether it popped up later. I don't want to to take it in only to discover it was something I did.
Would rather learn how to fix it myself anyway.
Also there is nothing wrong with frames made in Africa. They made lots of composites in Africa before it was a mass production industry. Lotuses were made in South Africa, Looks are made in Tunesie, which was a former French colony.
so my rear tire blew up when i switched from 700c 28 " 32 mm to same but 35 mm outer tires
so i got "universal size"700c inner tube and i tried it like 3 times and every time one side towards the inflation point (french) is noticeably heavier when i spin the wheel by holding the seat post in my hand or just let it fall by itself by gravity right
so is this normal or i am doing something wrong
(wasnt like this when the inner tube was for 32 mm before it blew up)
try chain reaction, they sell brand-x ones for a variety of models for <$10
If not, you'll have to shell out $40~ on one of the sites that specializes in replacement hangers, or a dealer who sells the brand of bike you have (which might be hard with a niche name like Zonal)
looks like this is the closest bet
Kind of a shame but right now I'm forced to lock out a gear which is awful
Is this the correct thread to find suggestions from craigslist?
Looking at these three bikes, are they worth it? If so, which one should I go for? I'm just looking for a starter road bike. I'd be okay with waiting if none of these things are good deals.
Hey /n/, thinking about buying cannondale quick cx 1. What do you guys think?
It looks suspiciously like a hybrid, but the price is at least good compared to what's listed on the website.
That said the shock has lockout and it's got rackmounts so it looks like a fine commuter.
It's a bit of a jack of all trades and from what I understand shocks on bikes like that are basically dead weight. Also drop bars > flats for non-technical riding in a lot of situations.
Personally I'd choose some kind of CX/gravel/adventure bike instead of that, but if you've ridden it and liked it, don't let me put you off.
I don't really understand your problem from the description, but if your wheel has a heavy spot, it's much more likely that the wheel is out of (radial) true and you just hadn't noticed before.
These three are actually quite similar aside from the cosmetics, any of them would make a fine starter road bike and are priced reasonably. The only downside to the Moto, which is the least expensive, is it has slightly-less-desireable shifters but I wouldn't consider that a dealbreaker.
Hybrids are generally looked down upon because they don't do anything well, and suspension is really superfluous on a bike that's meant for smooth surfaces.
That said, the Quick and similar hybrids (every brand has at least one) are fine general-use or commuting bikes, and although they seem pricey from the perspective of bike obsessives who are used to cobbling similar bikes for $50 with parts from the 90's, if you're new to cycling it's not unreasonable to spend that kind of money at a bike shop, since the price typically includes warantees, and it gives you access to the in-person advice that the shop provides (remember, the internet can't fix your bike, and isn't very good about knowing about local routes and events).
Unique branding helps consumers differentiate between products in a crowded marketplace.
Oh god help me /n/.
How to prevent trench foot.
I haven't even been touring or anything, but my feet are starting to look even worse than pic related. My life is agony.
Are there ANY biking shoes that don't suck up water like a sponge?
Alternative question: can you still bike if you have both feet amputated?
That's hardcore, but are you sure your problem isn't chillblains?
First thing to do is to make sure you're changing socks regularly and allowing your feet to dry completely on a regular basis. Second, there are a variety of winter bike shoes on the market these days, I have a pretty cheap pair of Diadora winter cleats myself and I've never, ever gotten water in them even when having to walk through deep snowdrifts.
Plenty of people are willing to pay that much, apparently.
Deore hubs are fine.
You can generally tell from the context of the sale whether a bike is stolen or not: if a bike has been hastily spraypainted, the seller doesn't know anything about it, or wants to meet in a public place but doesn't introduce themselves, those are all potential red flags.
where do you guys clean your bike during winter?
Right now it's like -15 C here so I can't just go outside and do it
I store it in my garage right now where it's a couple degrees above zero. I wash the drivetrain off with hot water after every ride but It's still kinda dirty everywhere. Just came back from a vacation and noticed there's a lot of rust on the chain too, but I can clean that off in the garage.
You guys just take it to the shop?
The fuck is this hub and how do i service it? Google doesn't give me anything
It's not a bad frame, but there's nothing really special about it either.
During winter I just focus on keeping moving/vulnerable bits as clean as possible and look forward to doing an overhaul and deep clean when warm weather returns. For chains, the best option during wet and cold winter weather to is to get your chain as clean as possible (taking the chain off the bike and soaking it in a jar of kerosene is ideal for chains that have developed some surface rust), let it dry, apply wet-weather lube slightly more liberally than normal, then it wipe clean of grit between rides, cleaning with a solvent and re-lubing occasionally.
Yeah, it does exactly what it's designed to do: carry you and a household of shit across a continent while still being very stable. I don't think that the complete version is that bad for $1,300. If you're really savvy, you can build up a LHT frameset for that price, I guess, but it'll mean buying some used shit. Or you could save a few hundo and get a Novara Safari. Or spend a few hundo more and start with a Bob Jackson World Tour frameset. Or retrogrouch the fuck out on a Terk 720 or Miyata 615 or 1000.
However, the LHT is total overkill for commuting, where you're better served with something more responsive and less stiff. The LHT is designed to carry tons of shit. unless you're a fatass, you might find a LHT too stiff for lightly-loaded rides.
Wear thin wool socks. Waterproof shoes trap perspiration so take that into account. If you're on a long ride and are going to take a rest for more than 15 minutes, take your shoes and socks off to let them dry up a little bit. Or change socks. Use a topical like Bonnies Balms Healing Salve.
I guess you could chop your feet off and get them replaced with units that directly interface with the crank.
thread past bump limit
>I don't think that the complete version is that bad for $1,300.
It's using cheapo hybrid-tier components though, just wondering where all the fucking money is going.
Just planning out a touring bicycle to save up for, think I should just get a LHT frame and build a better bike with it.
I'm sure it's not chilblains cause it's not really that cold at all. We're talking 40°F at the coldest
It's more "warm water immersion foot" than full on trench foot, but that's a pretty finicky distinction to make, and I don't think anybody knows where one ends and the other begins.
I'm considering just packing a spare pair of socks and shoes in a waterproof bag so that I can change mid-ride.
I have naturally sweaty feet thanks to thyroid issues, so it'd probably be a horrible idea to keep it locked in. I guess I never considered that moisture goes both ways.
I kinda wish my feet would fall off so I could get in on some of this action
One thing I forgot to mention is that the LHT doesn't have a kickstand plate, and having a kickstand is pretty nice on a fully-loaded touring bike. You can install a kickstand on a frame without a plate, but there's more risk of fucking the chainstays.
A very good alternative to the LHT is a Velo Orange Campeur. However, it's a retrogrouch frame, so it is designed to work with with 1" quill stems. Not a big deal, just a quirk.
Soma Saga. They have rim brake and disk brake versions. Salsa Marrakesh, maybe...it's a bit pricier than the Soma, Surly, and VO frames for some reason. The Bob Jackson World Tour I mentioned earlier, although it's close to $1K for the frameset alone.
took my bike to the shop to get my limit screws readjusted after it was all fucked up after I bought it like a week ago, but the chain still clicks in EVERY GEAR on the big ring. Why is this? Its a claris by the way
This thread got bumped in the catalog again, weird...
Clicking in every gear probably means that there's slightly too much/little tension on the cable (if you look at the derailer directly from the rear you'll see it's slightly out of alignment left/right relative the cogs) and can be fixed with a small twist in the appropriate direction on a barrel adjuster.
If adjusting your cable doesn't solve the problem, the usual issue after that is a derailer hanger that's bent out of alignment.
Not sure what you're referring to, but if you're the guy with the hub, there's no greasing involved if your hub takes cartridge bearings.
The weather here recently has been appauling (UK) and my brakes have been really suffering, i've been finding they've been shitting themselves and leaving the residue on my rims. Granted these are the ones that came with the bike though... Any recommendations for new break blocks?
Pedestrian here, why the hell would anyone bike in the city? Bikes make perfect sense in towns with empty streets and sidewalks, but why would you bike in the city, where you're a hazard to pedestrians and a liability to drivers?
Also, what should I look for when buying a decent cheap bike? Chances are I'll be in chicago next year, so I'm basically expecting the thing to get stolen at some point.