So I broke my bike by breaking and accelerating on it at the same time. Now the wheel is all wobbly and the bar that I circled in pic, which used to be attached to frame where arrow is pointing came off and is all bent now.
I need to know what it is called so i can get a new one.
Can anyone help me out with what it is?
its making me wait i have 2 more after this
i accelerate by pulling throttle back.
other side of bike but i think this side isnt important.
so in that pic you can see most of the bar that im talking about and how it bends now at the top where the bolt broke.
the wheel wobbles side to side now and i need to get a new bar to attach it back to the fram with a new bolt. But I dunno what it is called so I cant find it to buy it.
That is not a bike, it's a fucking abomination. It's good that it broke, now you can get one that doesn't pollute the air and makes a shitload of noise. Seriously how lazy can you be? Why do you need a combustion engine on a bicycle? At least get an E-Bike if you hate pedaling so much.
you are a pretty lazy troll at least show some effort in your ignorance.
thanks for trying i spose
guess ill just bend the fker back into shape and hope all goes well.
do you guys have to deal with these retarded kids all the time? how do you get anything done with these dumb asses here?
Do they stick around to try and pretend to be smart?
JUst bend the bar back and put a bolt through the hole in the bar and the slot on the bike frame. I googled coaster hub fix and found some videos. I didn't watch them but im sure theres some more info than you already know in it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x28XzNg-AA
without unbolting the wheel, move the brake arm (the part you circled on your photo) counter clockwise (the same direction the chain moves if you pedal forward) until it the hole lines up with the bracket (where the arrow is on your photo) and fasten them together with a screw and a nut.
It may take some force to move the brake arm. Wear safety gloves. If the arm doesn't seem to move, try a hitting it softly with a hammer, but don't bend it.
You should go to a bike shop if
- the wheel still wobbles a lot
- the wheel no longer turns
- you cannot line up the brake arm and frame strap
>the wheel wobbles side to side now and i need to get a new bar to attach it back to the fram with a new bolt. But I dunno what it is called so I cant find it to buy it.
Your coaster brake arm bolt came out, and the coaster brake arm rotated around the rear axle from you using the brake. The bolt may have just worked loose and fallen out; get a nylon locking nut & bolt next time. Also use a washer so the bolt can't fall through that mounting bracket....
The reason the wheel is all wobbly is that when the brake arm came loose it may have partly loosened one of the bearing cones.
So you need to snug the bearing cones down again (until you feel the bearings rumble when the wheel is spun) and then you back them off 1/8th turn. You want the wheel to spin freely (with no bearing rumbling) but not be loose side-to-side.
You also might take the bearings out and re-grease the coaster brake shoes. Coaster brakes aren't a good idea for a motorized bike, since you may rest your feet on the pedals while motoring and inadvertently press a bit backwards on the brake. Coaster brakes heat up a LOT very fast, and take a long time to cool down. It is easy to melt the grease out of them. When they are dry (have no grease) they grab way more than they should.
Do note: cheap bikes aren't made real rugged, and putting a motor on them puts about 5X as much power as your own pedaling would have.
The wheel may be already worn to where the bearings can't be adjusted real well anymore.
I'm not telling you to not use a motor, just saying.
In particular--if you want to build a motorized bicycle like this, you are better off using a steel frame. The aluminum frames are more susceptible to cracking.
>The reason the wheel is all wobbly is that when the brake arm came loose it may have partly loosened one of the bearing cones.
If you are lucky the left bearing cone may to back to the proper position when you rotate the brake arm back into alignment with the bracket.
Bolt with a nylon locking nut, or a bolt, washers, a lock-ring, and a nut are a very good idea.
If you're uncomfortable with this then let a bike shop fix it.
Coaster brakes are notorious for fading (over heating and then not braking very well) and not being easy to control (skidding when you don't want to).
OT: There should be no e-bikes.
I would rather see small electric motorcycles derived from larger motorcycle designs.
Bicycles are not designed for the power or weight of a large motor. The handling and brakes are not well suited, making a bicycle to e-bike conversion less safe than a scaled-down electric motorcycle.
>OT: There should be no e-bikes.
>I would rather see small electric motorcycles derived from larger motorcycle designs.
ummm,, you DO know that motorcycles originated from motorized bicycles, right?
besides, a motorcycle is not a bicycle, at all.
I'd like the idea of a bicycle that was smooth, quiet, only 10-20 lbs heavier and had a ~700-watt motor but that could also be pedaled the same any time you wanted. Currently, e-bikes are closer to that reality than gas-engined bicycles are. The shortcoming of e-bikes is still the ranges possible.
The problem is that (in the USA) there's no defining motor vehicle laws for such a thing. So no companies are trying to improve gas engine kits much, since there's no large defined market.
>Bicycles are not designed for the power or weight of a large motor.
That's such a stupid argument.
How does a motor and batteries weigh more than the average gear carried while touring?
Or is carrying anything more than a water bottle also dangerous?
>Not everyone carries 50kg of luggage
I should hope not: there wouldn't be any survivors.
If a motor and battery was dangerous, carrying luggage would be a death sentence.
>Bicycles are not designed for the power or weight of a large motor.
So you mean "some of the lightest bicycles are not designed for the power or weight of a large motor."
My electrically assisted bike weighs 24kg, it's full suspension and weighed I think 14kg before the conversion. The extra weight isn't an issue at all, and even being an aluminium frame it handles the power fine (a little over 700w on a freshly charged battery).
bikes with added motors (like this one) tend to be disgustingly unsafe, whether they're electric or combustion
you're right that
>the handling and brakes are not well suited
>bicycle to e-bike conversion less safe
but e-bikes aren't inherently unsafe, only shitty jobs like this one performed by a mexican in his garage and sold to a fat, lazy retard with no mechanical knowledge
purpose-built electric bikes tend to have stronger/thicker/heavier frames, beefed up components all around (bars, stems, seatposts, etc), which is fine because e-bikes don't have to be built to be lightweight
I think you might be surprised by how much a scooter like the one you linked actually resembles a bicycle
if you removed the fairings, mirrors, non-structural body pieces, seat, and trunk thing, you'd have what is essentially a very beefy stepthrough frame
you can have a suspension, batteries, motors, controls, disc brakes, lights, etc. just like you would on a bicycle, it's just all in a different package with slightly different geometry, but the principles are the same
personally I have to wonder if it would be worth it to have mopeds like the one you posted though. my opinion is that they have many of the disadvantages of a gasoline vehicle (weight, cost, safety, size, energy demand, etc.) while offering very few benefits over a nicely equipped city bicycle
If you combine a cheap e-kit using SLAs, and combine that with the fact that the rider is probably fat and lazy, the extra weight can certainly put undue stress of parts like the spokes, and cause wheels to come out of true more quickly, just like putting a really obese person on a bicycle.
I'd totally put a motor on a high-quality touring bike with well-built, 36-spoke wheels (or even 40-spoke wheels for a tandem). Also some quality tires rated for both the load and the speed.
I'd be really skeptical of a gas engine on a coaster-brake-equipped department store bike with shite wobbly wheels, ridden by a lardass who probably can't tell the difference between NAS bolt and a chinesium one from Home Depot.