So found this thing at goodwill for $20 honestly had no idea what it was googled it and found out only ~500 were made. Picked it up cuz i just wanted to have a special snowflake bike plus figured it was better than muh fixie lyfe.
had everything stock from its 1989 creation tires were dry rotted and it had a nice layer of dirt!
its got 26" wheels and pretty much fell to the wayside when 700cc took over as more popular wheel
>$20 at goodwill
goddamn im jelly, regardless of how many were made thats just a neat looking bike. The only thrift store around here that regularly has bikes doesnt have room inside for them so they just sit out in the elements all the time. I did get a nice, old, cruiser style bike from the Goodwill though, still working on getting it fixed up though.
nice find, OP, im digging those handlebars
Slapped some new wheels and a seat (ignore the angle it has been fixed) as well as a set of clipless to replace the pedals
still could use some tlc but what can i really do with this old dinosaur??? can it be a cyclocross bike or is it to heavy? i mean i guess i can just use it to commute but I've never had anything other than my fixie so i just want to try to do something different with it
Rigid MTBs make excellent touring bicycles, with a few notable down sides...
The bb height on mtbs tends to be a bit higher, which reduces stability in certain situations. Some bicycle companies built their MTBs with rather short chainstays. This can cause your heel to strike pannier bags you have mounted in the rear.
The 26" wheels are actually a benefit when touring, because 26" is pretty much still the standard wheel size around the world, except in very rich countries. So if you're planning on touring across Asia, South America, Africa, basically out in the wild, 26" is the way to go.
Good find, though. Looks like a nice sturdy bike.
Except that OP's bike has a big plus that it was actually designed for drop bars.
That' being said, there's a reason they're rare. That kind of mixed use bike was pretty damn niche. It would be a godsend to someone that wanted a retro 26" tourer or a drop-bar MTB, but so few people want those anyways.
That's pretty cool OP, I was aware of these combo bikes previously and would love to find one myself, I like slack 80's style MTB frames for practical/winter use, but unfortunately I have a strong preference for drop bars.
Put some nice 26" slicks on it and make it your ultimate gravel road bike, or keep the knobbies and make it an offroad touring bike.
>its got 26" wheels and pretty much fell to the wayside when 700cc took over as more popular wheel
It was a MTB made by Specialized in the late 80s with modified geometry to accommodate drop bars. One of the first "Dirt Droppers" to be commercially available in fact.
I think the uniqueness of it is pretty neat. Nice find OP.
I have a similar bike from the around the same period. There are many positives to your bike:
I'll guess it can fit 26 x 1.75 or maybe 26 x 2.0 tires, so you have many choices from slick city tires to knobby tires.
Looks like the frame has posts for mounting a rear rack. Using the rack to support a large saddle bag or using pannier bags is so much nicer than carrying around books or groceries in a back pack.
Perhaps the bike just needs some pedals, new rubber (tires, tubes, and fresh brake pads) and a tune-up and you're ready to ride.
The negatives, if you care, are:
Heavy! I'll guess just a little under 30 lbs. Won't really matter unless you like to ride up hills fast.
Suntour 7-speed - probably has a 126mm rear hub with a threaded Suntour freewheel. Original replacement parts will be expensive.
(controversial): Drop-bar MTBs are more difficult to ride on technical terrain than flat handlebars. So despite having aggressive knobby tires, unless you are an expert rider, this bike is best suited for non-technical fire roads, gravel roads, and paved roads.
>probably has a 126mm rear hub with a threaded Suntour freewheel. Original replacement parts will be expensive.
Meh. It's steel. He could say "fuck it" switch to an old Shimano 8 or 9 speed MTB groupset and throw an older 130mm 8/9/10 cassette freehub body road hub in there without having much to worry about.
6500 Hubs are a pretty bomb-proof and they're pretty cheap and easy to find.
>Meh. It's steel. He could say "fuck it" switch to an old Shimano 8 or 9 speed MTB groupset and throw an older 130mm 8/9/10 cassette freehub body road hub in there without having much to worry about.
>6500 Hubs are a pretty bomb-proof and they're pretty cheap and easy to find.
I agree that switching to Shimano Freehub/Cassette (hyperglide) makes a lot of sense. But if you want shifter indexing then we're also upgrading derailleurs and shifters. Speaking of shifters there's still bar-end shifters and of course brifters (I know Shimano 9-speed MTB derailleurs are compatible (or close enough) to work with 9-speed Ultegra brifters.) I'll assume the cantilever brakes were setup to work with the shorter cable pull of road brake levers, so newer brifters should work. Otherwise you could upgrade to V-brakes, like the TRP CX 8.3. Now we've bought a lot of parts to put on our $20 bargain. 8-)
Only makes sense to call it a logging road if it's actually used for logging. In parts of the USA with a lot of open wilderness, there are just straight-up service roads for fire trucks in case of wildfires. Hence, "fire road".
>Otherwise you could upgrade to V-brakes, like the TRP CX 8.4
>I don't really see that as an upgrade though. Something about cantilevers is special.
Cantilevers are harder to setup, but maybe that's part of their versatility. Cantilevers brake pads need to be re-adjusted as they wear, where as modern V-brakes have pads that remain parallel to the rim even as they wear. V-Brakes work independent of cable hangers - or in the case of this Specialized bike, stems that are drilled so they act as cable stops.
The CX 8.4 V-brakes are designed to be compatible with the amount of cable pull that modern drop-bar brake levers/brifters have.
This Specialized bike might already have brake levers (e.g. some DiaComp models) designed to be used with cantilever brakes.
>Apparently Google you dummy.
srsly, where do you lookup how many bicycles of a particular 1989 model were made? If you just answer "google" then you obviously don't know and just like to pull numbers like this out of your arse, kinda like that weird Cannondale that we won't mention.
Speaking of Suntour shifters, in the early 1990s they made "Command Shifters", which had both Index and Friction modes.
Their mounting location was less prone to damage (or impaling your leg) than barend (aka barcon) shifters.
It's a shame no one makes them anymore.
>It's a shame no one makes them anymore.
Kelly Takeoffs are still available, very similar
The XTR BR-M950, -M960, and -M970 all had the pad on a sweet little 4-bar.
Avid's Arch brakes used a different mechanism to achieve a similar effect.
I can't recall offhand any other V-brakes that do this.
These are hilarious and I love them.
A lot of Shimano downtube and barend shifters have both friction and indexed modes. The placement/shape of the Suntour Command shifters has always interested me, but never enough to find a pair and test them out. I looks a little more awkward than the old WTB dropbar adapters for M73x Deore XT shifters, or the Kelly Takeoffs. Gevenalle seems to be the most readily-available method of putting friction shifters up near the brakes on a drop-bar bike, but you can only shift them from the hoods - not the drops.
I've stretched 127mm to 135mm no problem, as long as the chain stays aren't so short that the dropouts get so splayed you can't properly tighten the axle. There are people doing this on tandems. I wouldn't worry at all about it