BQG! Old one maxed
Can I respace my 130mm rear hub to 128? It's a cup and cone claris system and I want to use it on my late 80's model bike that currently has 6 speed. Can't set the frame as it's aluminum.
Yes, you can respace a Shimano 130mm hub to 126mm by taking 4mm of washers off the non-driveside and then redishing the rim (note that this will slightly weaken the wheel overall). Be aware that unless you have unusually thick dropouts, you'll either need to cut the axle down a bit, or borrow one made for a 126 hub, otherwise the end of the axle made for 130 spacing will protrude and prevent you from closing your QR skewer.
Ahhh I see. Doesn't sound too bad! Pic is project, gonna take my 8 Speed Mavic CXP22 wheelset off my other bike and build up an 11 speed set for it, then put the 8 speed on this!
Although it would be ridiculous, I suppose I could run 10 speed on this hub with friction too couldn't i?
notice i said single speed and not fixed gear, there is a difference, my friend. wouldnt call pic related hipster would you?
48x16, 69 meters elevation (spread over 12,5 miles), according to googmaps
would very much like to stop working out and biking a lot instead, thanks for the answer, anon
Currently looking at replacing my brake and gear cables.
The current cables have short lengths of uncovered inner cable running along the top and down tubes. What's the point of this arrangement? Is there any downside to drilling out the cable terminating braze-ons and routing the covered cable all the way through?
New thread, new post
Just to be sure: my rims are 622/19 and my tire 622/42. Is the Schwalbe AV17 the right size?
Fuck this chart.
I just went out and bought these thick, 32mm tires because Sheldon Brown said they'd fit.
Oh they fit the rim fine, but it rubs past my fork every few rotations.
Fitting the rim is not the whole story.
The exposed cable is exposed because it runs in a straight line so it doesn't need housing. Housing is needed other places to keep the cable tensioned. You can run housing the whole length but the lever pull won't be as crisp, and it adds weight and looks stupid, and then you need zip ties or whatever to keep the housing running along the tubes.
My suggestion: Keep doing it like it is, do not run full length housing
Are you fucking retarded or trolling?
You need a tube for 700x42c tires (700x42c is another way of saying 622/42). Tubes come in ranges so it just needs that in the range, i.e. 700x35-45c would be good since 42 falls in that range of 35-45.
Also make sure to get the right style valve, presta or schrader
If you want to run it for show and keep the lever tension anyhow don't remove the braze-ons just thread fitted lengths of tube into the spaces between them. The cable works against (all) the braze-ons
For the benefit of the tire-enlarging community, things you should check when switching to a larger tire on your bike:
>rim compatibility (Sheldon Brown's chart)
>fork lateral clearance
>fork crown clearance
>front brake bridge clearance
>brake bridge clearance (if applicable)
>seat stay clearance
>chain stay clearance
>rack clearance (if applicable)
>fender clearance (if applicable)
>bottom bracket clearance (bonus)
>down tube clearance (bonus)
A manufacturer-recommended maximum tire size or the experiences of other users of the same model bicycle could be useful, but they don't excuse you from checking for yourself.
You could also go to an LBS and consult them, possibly to the point of trying on a wheel with a larger tire. Better safe than sorry.
Any opinions on mavic open pro rims? Looking to build a wheelset and I was thinking about them. What are other good options?
Also, what's the difference between the old open pro and the open pro 2016? The older ones are like half the price on chain reaction.
I put a scratch in my carbon frame, is it dead? I can feel it a little when I rub my thumb over it. I didn't crash or hit anything, I just rubbed my other bike's studded tire on it by accident.
Looks fine but maybe ask a professional's opinion. Seriously though I'd bet it's nothing. I have a carbon fork that looks like a beaver chewed the blade and the guys at the shop tell me its fine
Strictly speaking, no, headset parts aren't actually interchangeable, but in practice there are only a handful of standard designs, so the odds that the race that came on your fork will match the headset currently on the frame are pretty good. Try it and see.
Open Pros were the default choice for anyone wanting to build strong, reasonably light road wheels in the 90's and early 2000's, they lost a lot of their popularity as Velocity rims and good pre-built wheels came on the scene. Didn't help that there have been a consider number of reports of OP rims from the mid 2000's developing a rattle, probably a bit of excess material from the manufacturing process trapped inside the rim, which is not a safety hazard, but a definite annoyance (note that the number of complaints, while noteworthy, is still tiny compared to the total number of OP rims sold during that period, the odds of finding one of those defective rims are very, very small).
I've ridden extensively on Open Pros and Open4s (forerunner to the OP), they're strong, reliable rims.
Not sure if there's anything different about the 2016 model, google doesn't turn up anything either. I'd guess CRC just wants to clear older inventory out.
What's the deal with tension on pedals? The Look Keo Blades come in three different options (12Nm, 16 or 20) and I'm not sure on which ones to go for. Currently I'm running Look Keo Easys which, I think, run around an 8Nm tension and they are easy to get into.
If I buy the 16 will I be able to adjust the tension if they're too tight for me?
On most clipless pedals you can adjust the level of tension that the metal spring exerts on your cleats, but with a carbon leaf spring the tension is permanently fixed. If you're happy with 8Nm pedals, and aren't accidentally unclipping when you really mash on the pedals, then I would stick close to that setting and go for the 12Nm version.
Comfort and necessity.
Because of suspension and shit mountain bikes often seem to have only 1 holder if any? And it's gonna get shaken around in there.
On a road bike 2 mounts is a given and with a little foresight you can usually find places to fill you bottles up on a ride.
>On a road bike 2 mounts is a given and with a little foresight you can usually find places to fill you bottles up on a ride.
Although for most people your average ride will be less than the 100km or so it takes to drink two bottles
So far the ones I've visited have been kinda shitty and arrogant to my new-to-road-biking ass, if I find one that clicks and doesn't have too much of a markup over online, that could totally change.
I'm in Australia too and I usually go by 1:50km. Naturally this can change depending on pace but it's a pretty good rule of thumb for me
There would be no point in them stocking several bikes that are all effectively the same.
The reason that most shops only stock a handful of brands is because the big companies that offer full product lines (Giant, Trek, 'Dale) require shops to place a minimal annual order to maintain their dealer status - small shops simply don't have the physical space or sales volume to carry more than one big brand, and for bigger operations, the wholesale brands offer incentives (help with marketing, training, volume discounts, and limits on the number of shops in a given region that can sell that brand) that encourage brand exclusivity.
Likewise I'm too cheap to buy prescription cycling glasses (and have read too many bad things about Zenni), I just wear my regular glasses and a cap to keep the sun out of my eyes.
Listen to this person w/r/t brands in bicycle shops. They have the correct answer.
I have had a lot of luck with wearing a cycling cap and my prescription glasses as well.
Bicycle co-ops are a great way to learn how to work on your own bicycle. I've volunteered and visited a few in the western United States. If you are willing to work your way past some of the rough edges, you can learn a lot at your local co-op. I learned all of my mechanical skills at my local co-op, which in turn lead to me getting a job as a mechanic.
Hey /n/, building a track bike this winter destined for the Milton velodrome, I've sourced most of the components except for the frame, and tires. Any thoughts and feedback would be much appreciated!
Frame / Size / Year:
>the less people looking for it the better :)
Handlebars / Stem:
>Nitto B123 w/ Newbaums - Nitto Jaguar 120mm
Fork / Headset:
>Kinesis Aluminum Fork - Chris King 1" Threaded
Wheel / Hub / Rim / Tire:
>Mavic Open Pro - Dura Ace High Flange - Continental Grand Prix Classic
Crankset / Bottom Bracket:
>Sugino 75 - Phil Wood
Saddle / Seat Post:
>Fizik Arione K:ium - Dura Ace 7600
Pedals / Chain:
>Speedplay X2 - Izumi V Super Tough
Gearing / Chainring / Misc.:
>DA 16t - F5 Lattice 47t
Does anyone have experience mounting fender + rack on the same eyelet?
I looked up online and most of the responses seem to be "put the fender mount on the outside" which is all fine and dandy except my bike has disks, so the rank has the different mounts which means you couldn't do that.
Should I just get longer bolts and put the fender mount on the inside, or find a different solution entirely?
I've done it both ways - fender stays to the outside is stronger in theory, but if you do run them inside you're only moving the rack stays outwards about 3mm, it's small enough that it doesn't matter in practice.
Changing a flat: How do I get my wheel off? Pic related. Apparently I need to release the breaks but the internet is doing a terrible job of explaining what I'm supposed to do. Is it the thing on the bottom, right above the wheel, which I would need a wrench to get off? Or is it the thing at the top, which I'm not really sure how to get off or release?
also I'm not sure why it's flat. I just got the bike used, tire was fine when I picked it up and rode it a bit just to test it, then let it sit for a week because I didn't have time to ride it. Was going to go riding now but it's flat. The little cap thing for the wheel valve is missing, could that be it? I know for car tires those don't seem to be crucial, are they more important for bike tires? Or is it likely an actual flat where I'd need another tire/tube? I gave the tire a quick look-over but didn't see anything.
You have cantilever brakes, so the easiest way to open them for wheel removal will be to unhook the transverse cable. See pic, one of your brake arms will have a slot where the end of the transverse cable attaches, slide it out of there.
So I bought this vintage jap road bike a couple months ago. Some of the parts are pretty old and when I ride it, it makes a noise. I'm looking to buy a new cassette and chain (maybe a new crankset and pedals too?). How do I size the crankset and chain? It's a 7 speed, 5 cogs on the cassette (I think) and 2 cogs on the crankset. Can I just buy 7 speed chain and shimano 5 speed cassette and it will be fine?
Also another question, when I took my wheels off to replace the tires and put them back on, I think I fucked up the de-raileur reinstallation, pic related.
>How do I size the crankset and chain
Meant to say cassette and chain.
Also another pic.
tired of using this shitty piece of paper clip for my light
does anyone have any ideas for something better i could find around the house or know where to get another clip thing?
Alright son, few things:
This is you right now: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seP2DPqd0o8&t=71s
It's a 10-speed, not a 7 speed. Multiply the rear cogs and the front chainrings, don't add them.
Next, you can't throw parts at the problem if you don't know what the problem is. Where is the noise coming from? What sort of noise is it?
>Can I just buy 7 speed chain and shimano 5 speed cassette and it will be fine?
>I think I fucked up the de-raileur reinstallation
You sure did. The bolt on the derailer hanger is supposed to go inside the dropout, you've mistakenly bolted it through the hole where racks/fenders are supposed to mount. See diagram.
>How do I size the cassette and chain.
Here's a good explanation about chain length:
You want a 5 speed freewheel not cassette. Make sure you don't have some weird niche threading size on your hub too! Also a 5 speed chain, not 7. Your bike is a 10-speed, but if you were to ask for a "10 speed chain" they would give you one designed for modern 10 speed cassettes
Did you lube the chain? What is wrong with your crankset, pedals and rear derailleur?
Your bike will need a freewheel, not a cassette. You could even see if you have the space to install a 6 speed freewheel though, if you wanted. When you are looking at chains, remember the number of speeds corresponds to the number of rear cogs only, not the chainrings.
I doubt you'll have to worry about the freewheel threading, a japanese bike is probably pretty standardized.
I've just been lurking craigslist for a 200-350 dollar road/touring bike. Not a lot of selection.
Anything I should look out for?
Anything I should avoid such as certain bicycle names?
Any other websites where I can find some local bikes?
1. Look at Kijiji if you're in Canada, also Ebay (odds are very low but you never know what will be listed locally)
2. Stick to bikes that you can google and find results on, avoid stuff that's unlisted because those are probably crappy Walmart or a department store bikes.
3. If you're in a rural area, trying to find a used bike online simply may not be an option.
just for curiosity, post your local CL url over in /bbg
things to look out for:
-idiots trying to hawk bikes with bent forks
-one-piece cranks on non-bmx bikes
-brakesets with extension levers aka "turkey levers" aka "suicide levers"
-frames with removable "claw" derailer hangers
-surface rust on rims/handlebars/stems (steel boat-anchor components)
-no seat-tube decal detailing frameset material
-slammed seatposts (sometimes denotes a stuch seatpost)
>post your local CL url over in /bbg
Not a lot of selection. There's that black Bianchi, but I don't know what the model is.
I also had my eye on that Univega Viva touring bike, especially since it's a steel frame.
What do you think?
I think it'd be smart to just wait for more selection.
addendum: if you find any suitable vintage cannondale listings, check photos carefully to ensure that the top tube is not sagging.
That's why you're not getting results, many CL posters don't know about bike sizes.
Solid deal, looks like a 56cm frame.
needs a little work but price is right
Fairly rare, dependent upon rough treatment. Al tolerates bending forces less well than steel; frames with manufacturing defects tend to crack at welds. See also: stress corrosion in Al aircraft structures.
Curious here. What's the hate with removable derailleur hangers? I have a 1981 bike with one of those and apart from the rear wheel being more painful than usual to install perfectly straight it hasn't given me any problems. Frame is nothing special but my area's a wasteland when it comes to nice used bikes.
Not that guy, and I actually agree with you, but from the 1960's onwards most high quality frames came with integrated der. hangers, by the 80's only cheap frames used bolt-on hangers, so the presence of a bolt-on hanger on an old bike is a pretty simple way to make a quick judgement about overall quality.
Generally, the rear wheel will skid before there is enough braking force to eject a QR-fastened wheel, but for most MTBs, the most common rear standard is a 142x12mm rear thru-axle. The industry will be quickly migrating to 148x12mm in a few years. Thru-axles are great and highly superior to QRs, especially for rear-suspended bikes.
Totally slipped my mind that rear wheels can skid. Thanks.
I have money and 50km track nearby for road bikes. I've decided to start cycling on top of lifting. Lifting was pretty easy to get into, /fit/ had a sticky which summarized anything and everything but I haven't been able to find one for bikes around here yet.
Confused as fuck about what a derailleur is and was wondering if there is a sort of starting bike general here?
Please and thanks
What country are you from and what realistically is your budget?
Australia, Sydney. Budget of 1500 total, mind you I don't own anything related to biking, not even a helmet (current single gear bike gets me around the corner for milk and bread). 5'7"
I have a single gear bike for local commutes now. I don't think I'll accidentally end up with a mountain bike though I wouldn't be against buying one for bush riding later on
the mech that moves the chain to the desired gear. usually two, one above the crank and one next to the rear wheel; but sometimes only one. single speed bikes have none. some bikes with no deraillers will have an internally geared rear hub, though.
I recently bought an Orbea Mx30, love the frame but shitty components.
So i want to upgrade it:
-Front wheel suspension: it comes from factory with a coil sr suntour xcr and i would change that for a decent air rocksocx, ideal model is rockshox recon gold rl but i dont think ill get it where i live, so any decent air suspension is fine
-Pedals: It comes with fucking plastic ones
-Crank: to a single-speed one so it will have a 1x9 speed
-Rear derailleur: it comes with a shimano alivio, im kinda fine with it cause they´re more than i expected but will definitely be changing it for one with a longer arm(derailleur cage?) and fitting also a chain tensioner
Thoughts? Please recommend me somethinng, i need /n/'s wisdom
I am looking for new tires for my bike >>>905591. I don't want to spend a lot on it because I don't ride a lot and I just want to get the bike in good running condition. I was thinking about these Schwalbe Lugano beige tires. Do you guys know if they are any good? And does the beige matches with the bike?
Would like some advise. Thanks in advance /n/!
What size are your rims? If they are 27" I've really liked the Panaracer Pasela. If 700 plenty of budget options out there like the Continental Ultra Sport II. Nashbar has them for $16/each right now. Don't go too cheap, the shitty ones from China have QC issues and the diameters are always a little out of spec.
Nothing. Having suspension can be really nice for navigating really shit terrain, but it causes a jump in price and requires a little extra maintenance. However if "off-road" just means a bit of dirt and gravel in between longer stretches of road, you're better off with a road bike with 700Cx28 or 32 tires, although 650Bx42 is an interesting choice if you're more off the road than on. CX bikes are nice because they have a bit more ground clearance.
Thanks for the help. There is a 700 tire on it right know so I believe it will a 700. I will take those conti tires into consideration. Do they have any kind of noticeable puncture protection?
And can someone give me some advice on innertubes? What are some decent ones? Does it matter what innertube I chose if I want to ride on 25mm wide tires??
in my experience, tubes are pretty inconsequential. i'm running a cheap brand i'd never heard of from Amazon right now. just make sure
>your wheel size is right and
>your tire's width is within the range listed on the box.
>you get the valve type that matches the hole drilled in your wheel i.e. what type is on the tube you're replacing; schrader is the one also used by cars. presta is the thinner bike only one
Do I need treads to ride on hard dirt and gravel? Any recommendations for tires riding 80% asphalt 20% gravel? One set or two sets of tires to change when I want to ride a certain road surface? I also have a tubeless ready rim.
Wouldnt mind changing tires on clinchers but having to change tubeless tires everytime I want to ride a different surface seems dumb.
most butyl tubes are made by cheng shin or kenda, and rebranded as whatever. they're decent, although they don't exactly have the tightest manufacturing tolerances. some companies make their own, like schwalbe and conti. they have tighter QC, but no real performance advantages with respect to punctures or rolling resistance.
latex is a different game altogether, but honestly if I were looking to minimize rolling resistance with clinchers I'd just go tubeless.
Swapping to latex tubes is probably a lot simpler for most people.
Also while the best tubeless road tyre (pro One tubeless, possibly) is very close, apparently the GP4kS2 with latex tubes is very slightly less rolling resistance.
Depends a lot on the gravel, but provided it's relatively tame (and flat) then you shouldn't have a problem on slicks.
Echoing what others have said, slicks are fine on gravel as long as it's dry and not overly loose. Also, the wider the tire, the more comfortable and stable it'll be, I like the Challenge Parigi-Roubaix (28mm) as a fantastic fast road + gravel tire, the Soma C-Line (38mm) if you're a heavier rider or going to carry cargo, and Panaracer Paselas if you're looking for something less expensive but still nice to ride.
Currently riding a '06 Specialized Dolce 3x8, sora/tiagra mix. Alex DA16 rims.
Should my priority be upgrading my gruppo to 11 speed or getting a new wheelset?
Do you feel like you need 2x11 gears?
I'd still probably say a new groupset though, since 8 speed Sora is thumb shifters. 52/42/30 x 11-23 has a pretty similar spread and tightness to 52/36 x 11-25, if you don't mind triple shifting the front. You may actually shift a triple front less depending on your speed.
And I'd upgrade rubber before wheels.
I have an old 1981 model year ten speed with Shimano 600 downtube shifters and rear derailleur and a 5 speed freewheel that is starting to get worn out.
Would it be a better idea to get a 6 speed freewheel and respace the frame to make it fit or get a HG 5-speed freewheel, if they even exist?
If you have Sora shifters, at least upgrade to Claris shifters so you can have real STI instead of that terrible thumb shifter. Going to 11sp will almost certainly require you to get a new rear wheel, as 11sp Shimano cassettes are different than 8-10sp. So, it would be best for you to save to get 11sp + new wheelset at once.
Shimano triples are 50/39/30 for some weird reason.
Depending on your current hub you may only be able to run a 5-speed freewheel, get some calipers and measure whether it's 120 or 126mm wide, upgrading to 6- or 7- might require a different wheel.
Spreading your frame to accept 6sp is the best best, although you may as well go to 7sp when you do that. Either way there's a steady supply of 6sp and 7sp cassettes.
If you don't feel like spreading the frame you could look into getting a Suntour Ultra 6 cassette with a 9sp chain.
Am I the only one that actually likes that old thumb-shift mech? For some reason I thought that shit was so cool back when I bough my first road bike (was 15 at the time). Felt like I was driving a stick shift or something mechanically organic like that. My current ultegra, rival, 105 gruppos are better, sure. But goddamn that thumb toggle was soo different!
Makes me crave campy for the same reason.
The owner at my LBS told me I should buy Gatorskins instead of GP4000S II's because they're way more resistant to flats, which I think is true. I had probably 5 flats this year due to glass and other crap on the roads here.
Apparently the GP 4-Season is just about as resistant to flats as the Gatorskins but ride nicer? They're more money though... Should I just go with the Gatorskins?
Gatorskins have really stiff sidewalls, if you're a heavy rider (200+ pounds) they roll nicely, if not they feel overinflated all the time. The 4Sea is right inbetween the Gator and 4000S in terms of both protection and ride quality, a better choice if you're lighter.
I had Kontenders, Luganos, Gatorskins, never tried GPs but Gatorskins worked the best for me puncture protection wise. I've since ridden on gators exclusively for 3 years now. Great if you want puncture protection, but get prepared for a very unforgiving harsh ride. The only time I punctured was when a pinky width piece of glass lodged itself into the tire.
From what I know, Shimano triple STI shifters (aside from 8sp Sora) have to be mated with specific Shimano 50/39/30 chainsets, due to how they index and how the ramps and pins work to assist the shift.
Mum got me a saddlebag and one of those toptube storage thingies for my bike :3
Commuter bike btw before you start going
>having anything on your crabon bike
Got some money too, will get some tyres because the current ones are fucking shit. Will probably get some Schwalbe marathons.
does anyone have any experience with having action cameras always recording on a ride? or using the video as evidence to show that you arent at fault for anything?
I feel as if I want one for my own protection, last year a car cut me off at a nearly reckless speed and a few months ago another car got really close and I had about 4 inches between him and the parked cars. and just yesterday a car lost control 50 feet ahead of me and jammed itself into a place that I often wait on red lights for.
I can figure out which cameras are good myself I just want an idea about the practicality of them.
Most people with cameras turn into complete wankers, cycle like shit, constantly act like a victim and would rather get run over than get out the way.
I'd be careful m8, might corrupt you.
What issues or things am i going to have to watch out for when switching to a smaller tire?
Ive been busting around on my commuter for about a year (mid 2000s MTB with slicks), and i ride pretty aggressively. i decided id like to build a road bike a few months ago, and it looks like it will be totally complete by spring. The tires that i got for it, some Conti 4 Seasons, are only 23mm wide, this is by far the skinniest tire i've ever ridden, what should i watch out for when i get on for the first time?
Basically, as far as tires go, how is the handling/my behavior going to have to change when i get this road bike finished?
You'll have a harsher ride and less traction (presuming you'll be running higher pressure on the Conti 4S and you do on the slicks), but more responsive handling. The bike may feel twitchy at first.
How often is too often to change your pedals??
I always thought of pedals as a set and forget sort of thing, is it a bad idea to be changing my pedals over about twice a week?? are the threads in the pedal and in the crank going to put up with it?
As long as you are careful to not fuck up the threads, and don't over torque them, it's okay to change your pedals, theoretically, forever.
In all practice, it is unnecessary wear and one of these days you're likely to mess it up.
Pedals usually don't need to be replaced unless you take them off and can feel the spindle moving irregularly as you spin it.
If you really need to take your pedals on and off often, consider getting some MKS ezy pedals.
look asswipe, i said theoretically.
Yes, in reality, there's friction involved, and the aluminium cranks and threads are most vulnerable to those forces.
If you were a pro pedal installer and always entered at a perpendicular angle, with perfect alignment and engagement, and greased the threads, and used a perfect pneumatic driver with a torque limiting option, yes you'd be fine, forever.
Calm down /n/egros and merry xmas, both your points make perfect sense to me, honestly
those quick release pedals are nifty, never knew they existed.
I just ordered ball bearing and plan on rebuilding a set of shimanos, it is annoying as shit to set the balls in place to slide the sleeve on them.
>look asswipe, i said theoretically.
But that's not theoretically true.
>Yes, in reality, there's friction involved, and the aluminium cranks and threads are most vulnerable to those forces.
Grease can be used to minimize friction
>If you were a pro pedal installer and always entered at a perpendicular angle, with perfect alignment and engagement, and greased the threads, and used a perfect pneumatic driver with a torque limiting option, yes you'd be fine, forever.
No you wouldn't.
my 2 cents is that he is right, if you were to say "forever" as the rule of infinity is concerned, you would slowly over decades and centuries of torquing down the pedals. The steel would eventually turn to dust lol...
CALM DOWN YOU TWO fuck. everything is kool. Fucking cycling you know. relax my fellow peddlers
It has to do with bolt/thread elongation and fatigue. Not friction, not dust. This is common engineering knowledge. It's why for all critical structures, say a bridge, they will replace a bolt if they remove one, rather than reusing the old one.
You are getting into the hypothetical that there is a man out there removing and installing pedals all day long.
I see your point now, some pedals do use lighter alloys in pedal design, but for all intensive purposes you should be able to remove and install a set of pedals several dozen times. which should outlast the bearings
Unlike my case, I had a set of bearings go bad after 1k miles, the pedal set started to make a clicking noise...sucks
1 more question, how many times do you think a pedal could be removed and installed b4 you need to replace the bolt or crank...just curious for your opinion.
my guess would be a very long time. the stress on pedals is les than the bridge you gave example of
I ordered one today. Ill give it a few trial rides. I'm kind of a pushover and I always avoid confrontation, hopefully it will carry over.
if anything I can use it for when I'm riding trails and renting DH bikes at bike parks in the summer.
>You are getting into the hypothetical that there is a man out there removing and installing pedals all day long.
The guy literally said once or twice a week. Literally. I am quoting him. And you said something would be theoretically true, which it isn't.
>I see your point now, some pedals do use lighter alloys in pedal design
This is for plain old steel as well.
>but for all intensive purposes you should be able to remove and install a set of pedals several dozen times.
Based on the figure 1 to 2 times a week, that's 4 to 9 dozen times a year.
> the stress on pedals is les than the bridge you gave example of
And the bridge uses bigger bolts to handle the increased stress. The issue with constantly installing pedals is risk of cross threading, but it is not unheard of for someone to pull the threads out when torquing the pedals to normal specs. I can not give you a figure, because pedals usually aren't changed enough for this to be an issue. The point is that there is wear and fatigue on the threads if you keep doing it repeatedly, and it has happened where fatigue caused the threads to fail.
it's called risk management dummy.
it's not the bolt gets tired after being removed once, and that they can't engineer a bolt system that would be less affected by fatigue, it's that with all the uncontrollable variables in construction, it's simply easier to use a new bolt.
Again, unless they want to guarantee the perfect scenario of bolt removal and installing, it's less risky and more cost effective to use a new one.
And the point is thread fatigue from installation is a real thing, and you can not "theoretically" re-use threads forever. I'm not saying you should replaces your cranks and pedals every time you change something.
I realized I need to start cleaning and taking care of my bike better, so I'm gonna start regularly lubing the chain.
Any recs for a good chain cleaner though so I can scrub off all the dirt and grease? I have a brush and all that jazz, just don't know what I should use to clean it first.
Hey /n/ I need a good brake set for my new build (KHS aero track curved seat post) I would like the levers and calipers to be silver and simple, not like the super long levers just average non flashy ones, I would like some suggestions
Does frame flex actually exist? I've never experienced any flex from any bike, apart from wheel flex. I'm a 5'4 manlet, could it be because I'm light? Even walmart bikes don't feel like they flex.
Even as a 75 kg manlet I'm frustrated because all the bikes seem to flex noticeably. Try putting some torque through the pedals. Say trackstanding with big gear in uphill. Not so stiff even with my xt cranks. And doing stoppies with old xc bike with quick release axle - eeeeww. But still I think frame flex isn't a huge problem with road bikes unless you race hard.
Frame flex is definitely a thing, and more body mass increases the chance you'll notice it. I'm a lightweight at 155lbs but have been able to flex plenty of frames - pic related was probably the most noticeably flexible frame I've ever owned, I could definitely feel the rear end wiggle when I sprinted out of the saddle. Most of the time though I only notice frame flex if the bike equpped with friction shifters - when the rear end flexes the distance between the shifters and derailer tends to pull the cable (and therefore the shift lever) out of position very gradually over the course of a ride.
Either is fine as long as the fenders are wide enough for the tires. The difference in circumference measured around the outside of 700 and 650 tires is less than 4cm, and that's within the adjustment range of most fenders.
Looking to buy tights and a jersey. Not sure how sizes work for pants/tights. Got a 33" inseam and a 29" waist. Should I go for a small or a medium? I feel like medium will be too wide but small might be too short.
Two months in, I just noticed that the spokes on my new bike's rear wheel have been coming loose, to the point where some of the nipples are no longer engaged.
No impacts or falls that I can remember. No serious curb hopping, either. Just hauling my fat ass for a few hundred miles. I haven't modified the wheel other than changing the tire.
The bike is under warranty and I plan to take it in to have it repaired, but I want to get this in context before contacting the shop.
>is it reasonable for spokes to come loose this way on a new bike? (break-in/manufacturing issues/etc..)
>how often should one have to deal with the spokes in a properly functioning bike?
>I lock up the bike by looping a u-lock around the seat tube and rear wheel, is it bad for the spokes?
>could this spoke issue be the result of changing to tires requiring higher pressure?
what wheelset do you have?
if you cant answer that, what bike do you have?
whats your weight?
spokes should not come loose all that easy.
I ride pretty damn hard and only have to true my wheels once or twice a year.
really depends on brand.
buy two sizes thru amazon or someplace similar, return the one that doesnt fit.
I'd recommend trying Pearl Izumi shorts/bibs. They're comfortable and hold up well.
every brand fits differently, and most brands have different lines with different fits. for instance, pearl izumi tends to be quite, uh, generously sized, while pearl izumi elite has a tighter fit.
unless you are a tremendously fat fuck, that shouldn't be happening. however most new bikes ship with shit wheels so yeah.
hey...so after doing the brakes on my rolling cage I have 3/4 of a jar of CRC caliper grease lying around.
Humor me. Do you think it could possibly work out decently as a headset grease?
It is all I have on hand and I don't want to buy a tub of normal grease that I'm going to use barely any out off...
Also posted this in bbg but that thread seems a bit inactive. This seems like a good deal but the lack of actual pics makes me kinda worried. If I can get real pics would it be a good buy?
I don't know what my inseam is, but my waist is the same as yours.
I can tell you I just followed the charts on the stuff I bought, despite numerous reviews on wiggle saying "size up"
So that means size S in castelli, which was fine, and size S in dhb asv stuff which was also fine.
The only thing that actually came in too small was a size S merino undershirt, which has much less stretch than lycra. Had to swap that for the M.
What type of rack are you looking for? Roof rack? Strap to your trunk? Hitch-mount rack - top tube or tray style?
The best rack money can buy is a hitch-mount tray rack from 1upUSA.
There are a lot of other good options are out there as well, depending on what kind of car you have and what your budget is.
The rim is Shining MT-20 (http://www.shining-cycle.com/en/product/showinfo-176.html) so it's basically no-name Taiwanshit. It takes 36 spokes.
The hub is Formula, which is no-name Chinashit.
The bike itself is Kona Dew.
My weight is 250lbs.
All in all, I'd expect all this to hold up even if it's no-name Sinosphere shit, but no luck this time.
Hey /n/, can anyone tell me the name of the little crimp on bits at the end of brake cables real quick?
Presuming you don't have dick breaks, I'd recommend something along the lines of a Fulcrum Racing 7 LG CX wheelset, which will work with your 8sp cassette with a 1.85mm spacer.
It's really annoying that even expensive racing bikes come with shit wheels.
How worth it is it to go out of my way to test ride a bike? Since shops basically only stock one brand, is it worth it to travel like 30-50 miles to test ride a bike that I might like a lot better that isn't carried in one of the super-local shops?
Depends on how much selection you can look at locally and how specific your needs are - if you're looking for a basic bike you won't find as much difference between what different brands/shop offer as you would if looking for a high-end road bike with 'just right' geometry.
It's an okay deal, just make sure that the chain doesn't skip (new chain on an old cassette can do this if the cassette has lots of wear) and the wheels are still true.
Would it be dangerous to clean bike parts in my basement with chemicals like acetone? I want to clean summer bike which I have neglected maintenance. I don't want to explode or die a painful death.
Really depends on what you're using and what the ventilation through your basement is like: Using anything with toxic or flammable fumes in a confined space is a bad idea. Citrus degreaser is fine for indoor use, acetone is borderline (not a problem in small amounts), MEK, gasoline, kerosene, etc. are not.
not bad for the bay area. I was laughing a bit at the gearing but then I remembered the Seven Hells
Basically, I'm looking at endurance-geometry bikes in the $1K-$1500 range, and the Felt Z85 has really caught my eye, both in terms of spec/price, but also because I think it's a pretty bike, but the nearest store that stocks them is a fair distance away.
So I got this from my local co-op for $60 for a new build. How fucked am I /n/?
Also small amounts of surface rust on the frame. Any tips for treating it or do I just say fuck it and leave it as is?
Just spray it with WD-40 and may try to brush it or use steelwool and slowly polish it out of the Screw... or just replace the Screw. As long as you keep a layer of Grease over Rust (Like WD-40, Wax or something else) the Rust itself wont grow anymore, due its lack of Oxygen (Which is a Lazyfucksolution)
to my mind, your issues start with wheels. this is a good opportunity to get some modern integrated levers and build up the drivetrain around a modernish 9-11 speed hub and cassette. getting prebuilt wheels like that will prob be 700c. so far so good. but there's like a 50/50 chance that the frame is for 27" wheels, in which case you'll have to replace the brakes for longer reach models. or you could opt for 27s with a modern hub but that will be a custom/expensive job, i'm assuming. harder to find, anyhow.
you could just put used wheels with the 6 or 7 cogs that your existing levers index to, probably find them at said coop for cheap and the rest of the kit there for a good price but that's the "aim low" option and you may end up upgrading over time anyway. in the long run it'd be easier on you and cooler to just aim high, if you've got the cash.
that's one of the realest of steel frames, aim high if you can. you'll have a cool bike either way, i reckon. cool color, too.
Yea I was really at a loss for what to do. This is my build for 2016 so I'll probably aim low and work from there.
I checked and the frame is for 27". Would it be better to get a 700c fork or would the headtube angle not work as well with 700?
I know a guys that could get me a full dura ace groupset for $350 and he'd probably throw in a pair of really nice mavic wheels but I'm still not sure how much I want to sink into this build.
Where could I find more information on the bike? I'd like to know more about the frame before I start throwing money at it
I tried to balance affordability with performance/reviews. Is this alright for a first set? Also, it's not crazy to wear a jersey as a baselayer, right? And can anyone recommend some gloves? Or at least a pair of gloves decent enough last and thin enough to be worn over liners.
>I checked and the frame is for 27". Would it be better to get a 700c fork or would the headtube angle not work as well with 700?
i don't have a qualified answer, but i'd be wary of monkeying with the geo at all. usually people just get brakes with longer arms. i know tektro makes some. i mean maybe your brakes would actually reach, but it doesn't look like it.
>Where could I find more information on the bike? I'd like to know more about the frame before I start throwing money at it
there's a guy that was in the industry for years that scanned his collection of mfr. yearly catalogs, including a bunch for Miyata. i found him via google when i got my 87 model 312 (pic related.) Miyata's rep is that, of their era, they made the finest frames in all of japan and they even forged their own steel. but how that compares to Tange (they did use Tange 2 before they built their own mill, but yours should be Miyata steel) Columbus or Reynolds etc i don't really know. Triple butted Miyata steel was world class but the industry moved to alu and crabon for road bikes not long after their triple butted frames were introduced in '87. that's all i know.
i love my Miyata, but i got it fully stock so i didn't bother with fancy upgrades since i have an alu "fast bike" already. Miyata is my daily driver tho.
I want to turn this used carbon road bike into a commuter and have a few questions.
Is there a way to fit racks to a bike without mount holes?
Braking from the hoods seems really bad, is this standard to 5700 105 or have I been spoiled by hydraulic discs?
Would upgrading the calipers to something like ultegra improve the brakes a lot?
1. Putting racks on carbon frames is a bad idea unless they're designed with rack mounting in mind, stick with saddle/handlebar bags.
2. Hard to say about the brakes, could be something technical (hardened/incompatible brake pads, some kind of setup error) or just your perception if you're not used to them yet.
borderline too big for you in both dimensions, find something 53-54
Most of the questions have been answered already, but as for frame geometry, as long as you're converting both front and rear wheels to 700c at the same time, nothing changes except that your BB gets about 4mm closer to the ground
Is this a good buy for a winter commuter?
I hate the ratios on my cassette. I know it's a cheap hybrid (not a BSO) but they're really shit. I'll be going up a hill, change down and suddenly I lose all my momentum and my legs are spinning like mad, really annoying.
I want to get a new cassette. Is there anything I need to worry about or do I just get a 7 speed cassette, slap it on, and index my gears?
What tools do I need? Cassette remover+chain whip? Is that it?
You might not even have to index your gears. But, yes, chain whip and locking ring is all you need. It's pretty simple.
Can you actually get a 7 speed cassette with a tighter spread though?
Yes, pic related on the left is my current one, as you can see the low end is ridiculous, the one on the right for example looks like it would be better.
Current one is 12-32 and the one on the right is 11-28, will I have to get a different sort of chain due to the difference? I'm planning on getting new chain anyway, but do I just need to get another 7 speed chain?
I swapped my crank to a compact from my higher end road bike. Now I won't need the huge gear. Next time It wears out, I will purchase the tighter gear set, the shifts will improve, I can assume.
Also, Dollars #Merica
when I had the mega range sprocket, I used it on the humps.
the first time I installed it I had my chain, 1 link, too short and jammed up the derailleur . large cog in front large gear in back had almost thrown me over the bars.....im a fool, live and learn
Depends entirely on the frame's design and your weight. Aluminum's rep for being harsh is because the industry was pushing the stiffness meme, and introduced lots Al frames that had absurdly oversize tubing and were much too stiff.
You can do the same thing with steel. Make a bike from OS 9/6/9 tubing and 23c tires inflated to 130psi and put a light rider on it, and he'll complain of a harsh ride.
One common thing that makers of steel frames do to improve comfort is use hi-ten in the stays and fork. But if the bike is intended as a racer, they'll go a bit stiffer in those places to make the handling more lively.
Geometry and tire choice also make a difference in how a bike feels and handles.
Yeah. I think that what manufacturers like Miyata and others did on their cheaper frames was substitute thinner-walled hi-ten stays for the thicker-walled CrMo stuff found in the lower-end tubesets, so the frame would've been more prone to flex in the rear. Or they could've just did that to save money.
Yamaguichi uses hi-ten stays on his messenger frame (which is absurdly expensive for a bike you're gonna mess on but whatever) to improve strength, particularly when pedaling backwards.
One side of my front brake calipers doesn't always return when I release the brake. It rubs against the front tire without causing any drastic problems, but I would like fix it. Where do I start?
First, rule out (unlikely) damage to the brake caliper itself, then:
If you have hydraulics, the problem is most likely that you have an air bubble trapped inside the caliper, the solution is to bleed the brakes.
If cable actuated, it means your cable/housing is gunked up and the cable isn't moving freely when you release the lever - replace the cable (might be able to solve the problem by lubing the cable, but no guarantees).
Hi-ten (which in cycling actually means 1020 steel..hi-ten doesn't really mean anything specific regarding the steel's composition, and there's a wide variety of hi-ten steels) can be drawn with different wall widths, just like CrMo. Ishiwata made a tubeset they called Magny, which was pretty much a small step above 1020. Columbus Aelle was similar. The Ishiwata stays were straight gauge .8mm, which would make them more prone to flexing than .8mm 4130.
Now are you going to provide some useful information or are you just going to keep screeching insults?
>Hi-ten (which in cycling actually means 1020 steel..hi-ten doesn't really mean anything specific regarding the steel's composition, and there's a wide variety of hi-ten steels)
There you go contradicting yourself.
>can be drawn with different wall widths, just like CrMo.
No, it really can't. The entire reason crmo and other specialty steels are used is because they can be drawn out thinner than hiten.
>Ishiwata made a tubeset they called Magny, which was pretty much a small step above 1020. Columbus Aelle was similar.
Absolutely wrong. Both of them were straight guage manganese alloyed steel. There is nothing inferior about manganese alloyed steel. The reason why manganese alloys were phased out is because 4130 crmo is an industrial standard and welds up more easily, where as manganese alloyed steel is better suited for brazing but not as much for welding. Rather than use a special formulation steel that doesn't melt as well, it's easier just to use 4130 that any steel supplier has, if you walk into an industrial metal supply store, they're have tubes and bars of 4130.
>The Ishiwata stays were straight gauge .8mm, which would make them more prone to flexing than .8mm 4130.
Wow, you're just straight up retarded. Do you even know what Young's modulus is?
>Now are you going to provide some useful information or are you just going to keep screeching insults?
Are you going to stop providing wrong information and being retarded?
>There you go contradicting yourself.
The cycling world uses the term for an entire class of steel to refer (usually) to a specific composition. Not seeing the contradiction, but I'm not a genius like you are.
>No, it really can't.
Are you claiming that 1020 can only be drawn to a single thickness?
>There is nothing inferior about manganese alloyed steel.
Never said it was inferior. Reynolds 531 was used forever, after all, and all of the steels we're talking about have some amount of manganese in them. Anyway, both Magny and Aelle tubesets were about as heavy as 1020 would be, which is why I suspect that they were marketing names for 1020 that were used when the word "hi-ten" started becoming unpalatable.
Uh huh. I typoed the second .8, by the way. Meant .9.
>The cycling world uses the term for an entire class of steel to refer (usually) to a specific composition. Not seeing the contradiction, but I'm not a genius like you are.
It does not. Schwinn and Raleigh, two of the biggest producers of bicycles used 1010 and 2030 respectively. The fact that most crmo is 4130 and most hiten is 1020 comes from the spread of alloy standardization, and companies not getting custom melts to their specifications.
>Are you claiming that 1020 can only be drawn to a single thickness?
It can be drawn in the range from thick to thicker without being too weak to use on a bicycle. The range it can be drawn into is not the same as crmo, and generally does not overlap with crmo, because the entire point of using crmo is to draw it thinner than what hiten allows.
>Never said it was inferior. Reynolds 531 was used forever, after all, and all of the steels we're talking about have some amount of manganese in them.
You don't seem to understand the difference between trace and alloyed.
>Anyway, both Magny and Aelle tubesets were about as heavy as 1020 would be
This is pure bullshit. Magny was a mix of straight gauge and butted steel. The straight guage tubes were to save costs. Alle was straight guage all around, but still in the thickness you would expect a crmo tube to be, just without the butting. Incidentally, Columbus also made Gara, which was a pretty similar tubeset, except from crmo.
>Uh huh. I typoed the second .8, by the way. Meant .9.
Nice backpedaling, it's obvious from your previous posts you thought crmo was inherently stiffer.
>One common thing that makers of steel frames do to improve comfort is use hi-ten in the stays and fork.
All you're doing is showing how retarded you are. I'm sorry you're a faggy hipster with a huge ego and you think steel is real and you're the most knowledgeable person at your co-op, but that doesn't mean shit here on 4chan anon.
Looked more into my frame and its a 1985 myata two ten. From what I've read this model seems to be more of a relaxed commuting bike.
Would it be worth using a modern-ish road groupset/wheelset on this frame or should I just stick to its touring roots?
Not my bike senpai just an idea. More than likely I'll just throw on an old ultegra double I have laying around. Still unsure of what kind of range to get on my cassette tho.
I just picked up a cheap bike to commute to work. This is the first bike I'll have ridden in around 20 years other than the stationary ones in the gym (which I've been using for the past month or two to get my fitness up for the commute)
I'm waiting on my lock an helmet to arrive then I'm going to start immediately.
One problem - I am completely out of money this month, and I don't have a pump with a pressure gauge, just a little hand pump.
The footpump will be my first purchase in around 2 weeks when I get paid, how should I 'estimate' the tyre pressure until then?
are there any tricks to knowing roughly a good pressure? how firm should they be once I'm on the bike?
Pic related - my bike.
pump it up so that when you sit on the bike with all your weight, the rear tyre only gets squeezed down a little bit. make the front one either equal pressure or less, as under normal riding less weight is on the front.
get some slick tires as soon as money allows since you're commuting. the difference is night and day. you'll appreciate fenders too if your region has any regular rainfall.
looks like a solid buy, enjoy your commutes
will do - thanks for the advice.
front one says 40-65 psi, back one says 30-55 psi. I'm guessing that's so low because they're designed for off road use?
I will do as soon as money allows in the next month or two - the frame is really large and solid which I like, I was worried I wouldn't find one large enough but this size is perfect.
fenders will be a requirement - 'regular' rainfall is an understatement here. Pic related, my city.
you could use the airhose at a service station/friend's pump with a gauge. once properly inflated, give them a solid pinch between the sidewalls. you will be able to estimate by pinch from then on.
Well, rather specifically I'm thinking changing those brake pads + integrated post (Dia compe mod 750) with some Kool stop shimano style cartridge brake pad holder, the "cross pad" ones which are made for canti. I prefer the canti holders because they have the spherical nuts to adjust the orientation while as the road ones don't look like they can.
How big of a concern is this crack next to the downtube water bottle boss?
Who can tell me what to do about the noise my back wheel makes? see the webm above with sound on :)
With no weight on it it doesn't make a noise.
With my bodyweight on it, it pings every time the wheel rolls past that point as you can hear. Sorry about the other noises, I put some tape on the spoke I'm talking about so you can see it. I'm reasonably confident the spoke just needs to be tightened, can anyone confirm or tell me anything else? I've never trued a wheel or adjusted spokes before so yeah idk what to do, thanks.
Video doesn't really tell us anything, but you can check if your wheel needs to be trued by spinning it and looking at the gap between the rim and brake pads for any sign of a wobble. Then work your way around the wheel, look for signs of rim damage, then squeeze each pair of spokes - if one is loose, you'll find it quickly.
If the wheels are fine, the noise could be from your hubs or drivetrain, it's not a distinctive sound by any means.
The noise is 100% coming from that spoke, sorry if the video isnt clear. The wheel is brand new but totally true to my eye. In the end i just twisted that spoke by 1/4 until the sound it made when flicked was the same as the ones around it, ended up taking one full rotation and the wheel is still true somehow and the spoke no longer makes any sound at all. So i guess either it was loose or i completely fucked something up!
You should retension those wheels m8
Machine built wheels come true but dont stay that way long because the spoke tension is often uneven. If you ride them for a long time on uneven tension you'll warp the rim
They'll last a lot longer if you retension them
So I guess I'll try to clean and lube my chain and drivetrains more frequently, but not die of cancer due to it.
GNC guy is using WD40 for cleaning as well as oiling it. Would it be a bad idea to use Ballistol the same way? Or are there better alternatives using ecologically safe degreasers and lubricants?
Except cross bike frames are lighter than touring bike frames because they do not have to carry as heavy a load.
>If you want to weave between cars go buy a fixie
You watch too many movies, I suspect you have never actually been on a bike before.
I've never done anythig of the sort.
Usually i would use them for a few weeks then take them to the shop i bought them from who would do that for free, but i bought this bike unused, but second hand, so dont have a shop to take it to.
Could you link me to a good guide or something on how to retension wheels? Any protips?
what do, have a 2 year old 26 inch HT, leave the stock XC28 or swap it for a surly 1x1, or a cheap carbon fork.
My bike can't shift gears. It's stuck on the smallest gear, the one where you pedal fast with little resistance. I just bought the bike off craigslist, probably should have taken a closer look at the gears.
Any ideas how to fix this? Pic-related is the gear thingy, I'll post a pic of the gear switch next. The other gears kind of work, but these are the ones with the bigger interval so they matter more. If I press the gear switch I can see that metal thing around the chain move but it won't lock, it just goes back as soon as I let go.
Any body know what's wrong? Would this be something I could fix on my own or even pay a ship to fix for not too much?
I'm also considering just taking that metal thing off and manually putting the chain on the second gear and just leaving it there, any opinions on that?
The gear switches look like this. I press it in and it moves the metal thing around the chain a little but it won't stay there.
>Pic-related is the gear thingy
that is your front derailleur. there are 2 screws on the top, look for markings L and H. try loosening the H one in increments. also may need more or less tension in the cable, there's a hex bolt where the end of the cable sticks out.
if your cable is seized in the cablehousing, then that's step one. penetrating oil into the housing ends and work the shift lever until freed.
consult pic here >>908306
and use the right words. youtube front derailleur adjustment.
This is me.
Well, my lock and helmet arrived, so I set out today to commute to work (2 miles) which I thought would be easy as I've been doing up to 7 mile rides at the gym on the stationary.
I barely made it round the block. Out of breath, unsteady, weaving around the road.
feeling pretty defeated desu.
a few questions:
1. It felt like my knees were almost hitting my chest, it was a struggle to bring them to the top position - first thought was I need to raise the seat further, but it's already slightly awkward to get on the thing, what should I do?
2. I cold barely reach the handlebars, pretty sure they need to come up too. I felt that while I was holding them I struggled to look ahead of me - is this something I'll get used to?, feel like I've got a crick in my neck from trying not to look at the ground. also, as soon as I wanted to look behind me or signal I was weaving all over the place like a kid just off training wheels, and when I sat up I felt like I could only get my fingertips on the bars - is this just something I'll get used to?
As I was pedalling, every few revolutions there would suddenly be no resistance on the pedals and my feet would shoot forward, accompanied by a crunching noise from the gears/chain
At I guess I would think this means the chain is too loose or something (skipping links)? Is there some way to 'tighten' the chain?
4 - Is there a big difference in 'effort' required between a real bike and the stationary ones in the gym? I felt uncomfortably exhausted after a few minutes on the bike, while I can go for ages on the stationary, and yeah, I get tired, but it's gradual, and progressive. Is my 'uncontrollable' almost panicked exhaustion on the real bike due mainly to the problems with seat/handlebars/chain etc, or is riding a real bike 'another level' of effort from the stationary regardless?
Thanks in advance for any advice or pointers you can provide /n/ - feeling pretty shitty right now.
>>At I guess I would think this means the chain is too loose or something (skipping links)? Is there some way to 'tighten' the chain?
The most likely problem here is a worn chain, or cassette, or both.
I'd suggest replacing the chain might be a good place to start.
I haven't ridden a stationary in years but it's going to depend on the resistance it provides. But yes, air resistance and inertia are powerful things, 20 km/h might be hard initially. If you're getting winded so quickly you'll have to ease off.
What do you mean be a struggle to get on with the higher seat? Your feet should generally not be flat on the ground from the saddle.
>What do you mean be a struggle to get on with the higher seat? Your feet should generally not be flat on the ground from the saddle.
I'm already on tiptoes when on the saddle, any higher and the bike will need to lean significantly to get my feet on the ground.
How is Diamondback's reputation as a brand? I might be buying at REI since dat dividend, and while they do offer some Cannondale and Scott stuff (which I know are reputable), they also carry Diamondback, which I worry a bit about since I've also seen their bikes at, for example, Walmart.
I'll also look into replacing the chain and cassette once I get paid - they don't seem overly expensive.
I'll also get out on the bike at the weekends and get practicing, build up the endurance.
no, the opposite actually. I think a lot of the problem could be the handlebars being too low (and belly too big probably desu)
>>I'll also look into replacing the chain and cassette
if one or all of the chainrings on the crank are blown, you gotta get those, too. compare to newish ones on a friend's bike or on a bike rack or shop. the newest teeth will still have square tops. they can be rounded off some and still be OK, but if comparatively your teeth are notably short or "shark fin" shaped, that's your culprit. a lot of times a rider will favor one ring more than others and you only have to replace one or two rather than all 3.
if the gear teeth on the rings and cassette seem OK, you might could get away with just replacing the chain and seeing how it goes, but that bike looks like it's been thru some thrashing, so guessing you need at least some new gears too. in looking at your pic, the visible rings look a bit short, to my eye.
cheers mate. That seems to be what I get for getting a bike with 0 real experience and not really knowing what to look out for.
so, given that I'll be looking to put some road tyres on at some point, if indeed i do need to replace the crank chainrings, cassette, chain, and god knows what else, I'm thinking it may just be better to cut my losses and grab a preowned road bike, given that now at least I have some idea of what to look for. (I only really checked the frame of this one - I perhaps naively thought anything else was cosmetic)
I'll pull the bike in after dinner and have a look at the chain/cassette/chainrings and weigh my options.
eh, all that stuff gets replaced on any bike eventually. getting hit with it right when you bought the bike sucks but buying a whole extra bike may not be a better solution. i guess it all depends, though.
Can you guys recommend me some straps?
I'm about to buy some cinneli ones, do you think they make up for the price? 35€ or so in my lbs
I'd like to hear recommendations
I know some of you think toe clips are prettier and clip less are more efficient, but I don't want to boy new pedals
I've never had to replace a chain before.
Are all chains creates equal?
Can someone recommend a mid-tier chain for a road bike? It's just my old 94 Raleigh but I don't want just a shit chain either.
>I have a stuck/ sticking link that I cannot get free
I'll cost both. There's a place nearby that does refurbished bikes for around £85, with 3mo warranty. Should have gone there in the first place desu.
If replacing parts costs more than that, I may just grab a complete bike. I'm thinking that may just be more efficient particularly if I factor the possibility of getting Road tyres in the future.
I've had a look at the bike, and as far as I can tell, the cassette looks good, nice square tabs, although a little grimy.
The crank chainset is a bit more dubious. The tabs are quite high, and not shark fin shaped, but very rounded, I'll do some reading and sleep on it before I decide.
Not all chains are created equal, but for your bike it doesn't matter. Get any cheap 7spd(?) brand name chain. Shimano, SRAM or KMC.
10spd and up you want HGX (or not) chains and such, but super accurate ramps weren't available on older systems.
And hollow pins or other weight savings measures aren't all that relevant either, I guess?
Looking to pull the trigger on my first road bike, as early on in the year my friend let me borrow his shitty 1991 Cannondale CAD3 and I immediately fell in love with it and am now looking to purchase something entry level.
The different kinds of road bikes really make my head spin, from racing to sportif to cyclo cross, I really dont know what suits me best. I've noticed the standard saddle position (before you adjust to your own personal fit) becomes more and more aggressive on road bikes the more you move towards the top end racing bikes, and i'm really just looking for something to ride for exercise, sport, and perhaps that can allow me to commute great distances without being too much of a workhorse.
Having leftover giftcards to Dicks Sporting Goods, ive been scoping the GT GTS Sport, and wanted to get your guys' opinion on it, since it appears to be pretty cheap at 750 and considering I have giftcards also.
Pic related is the bike, and ill post specs in next post
>Except cross bike frames are lighter than touring bike frames because they do not have to carry as heavy a load.
By 150g if you compare a cross check to a LHT.
>You watch too many movies, I suspect you have never actually been on a bike before.
$750 isn't that cheap for that parts spec. Specs wise, it's not that far off from the $449 BD bike that will be functionally the same, but maybe a little heavier and rougher around he edges.
Is this tyre:
a) a bit worn
b) totally worn
c) 'how are you still alive' worn
two closeups are the most worn parts of the tyre.
thanks (also I think this thread is on autosage someone make a new one)
The giant defy series has a wide range of bikes that will probably suit your budget. Unless you're willing to go full carbon then you want to find one with an alloy frame and carbon form and imo at least tiagra groupset.
This is the derailleur, are those the screws you're taking about? I don't see any markings. Is L the low one and H the high one by any chance?
Also I haven't gotten a chance to try anything, but it does look like the cable has slack. Pushing the gear switch a little doesn't move the derailleur at all, I have to keep pushing until it picks up the slack. I'll find my wrench and try to tighten the cable tonight, hopefully that's all it needs. Should I still do the oil though? The bike is old, dirty and a bit rusty.
Also looking closer, this is the bottom of the derailleur. Is that gap on the bottom left supposed to be there? It looks like maybe there's supposed to be a screw or something holding closed but idk.
i would lube those cable housings, that cable looks grungy and why bother fixing the tension only to have to fight grunge and friction while trying to get the right adjustment? it takes one minute to squirt PB Blaster into the housing ends and work the shift and brake levers a few times, and then you'll eliminate that factor in any adjustments and your bike will respond as designed and not all laggy.
>Pushing the gear switch a little doesn't move the derailleur at all, I have to keep pushing until it picks up the slack.
this is the primary problem. start with the chain on the smallest ring and with the shifter shifted to that ring (i.e. unsprung, detensioned, loosest.)
get the appropriate hex wrench and pliers, visegrips if you got 'em. clamp pliers onto the the loose end of the cable. loosen bolt (green arrow) and pull cable as taut as you can but don't try to prove you're He Man or anything. keep that tension and tighten the bolt back down nice and tight.
now your shifter should work. if the chain still won't get up to the big ring, loosen the derailleur's limit screw; it's like a stop. there should be L and H stamped into the left side not visible in pic, but H should be the lower screw. shift to the High gear from the handlebar and then when you loosen the screw, you can watch the cage move outward. eyeball it over the ring. crank the crank. chain should shift. too loose and the chain will overshoot and fall off; reapply and tighten screw a bit. repeat as needed. it's tricky. youtube is your friend.
this is the least of your worries.
There are so many things wrong here I don't even know where to begin. Your bike doesn't fit you in many ways and you don't seem to have enough riding experience yet to be comfortable on the bike
> slick tires
Literally what. Why the fuck would you want slick tires for commuting, especially on a cross bike? There are a million things to buy before worrying about a little rolling resistance
More gears, slightly higher build quality, slightly lighter.
Some will say the difference is night and day but in reality its more like sora is 90% 'as good' as 105 and tiagra 95%. Small, but still significant improvements across the board basically. A 10 or 11 speed drivetrain is also much more 'future proof' than 8 or 9. You should get the most expensive one you can afford. Sora, tiagra and 105 are all good 'bang for your buck' its not until you get to more expensive groupsets that you really get 'diminishing returns' where the small differences arent worth the large cost unless you are a professional.
This is mostly just opinions though, and im assuming your asking because you want to buy an entry-levelish road bike to exercise or commute or whatever.
What are some good sites to keep up with cycling news?
Did you not test-ride this bike before you bought it?
Unforunately, you're going to need to do a lot of research to fix these, or hit up a bike shop for advice.
You might be able to change the stem (the part that goes from the bike to the handle bar) so that it fits you correctly, but you'd best have a bike shop take a look before you go buying one
Hang in there dude. There is a big learning curve with bikes, both mechanically and physically. Take it for short fun rides once you have it running smoothly. 2 miles is nothing to sneeze at if there are hills/traffic and you're a new rider
Spending money to get advice from a mechanic will take a lot of the stress away. Also having a relationship with a bike shop will be beneficial in the long term
Oh yeah, and look up a bike co-op near you.
They are perfect for people who don't have a ton of money to spend but want to learn about bikes. They'll probably have a pile of stems that you can try for FREE