Previous thread -
All you fair weather riders need to HTFU edition
I went riding in thick, sticky mud all day today. Absolutely packed in all over the chain and gears. First I got chain-slip, then I got chain-suck, and finally I got chain snap.
Bodged the chain back together with my multitool and started making my way home, but it snapped again after a distance. Pushed for a bit till I met civilisation/street lights, then dubiously fixed it again.
By this point, it was dark, visibility further worsened by thick fog. Set off again, sticking to the pavement and not the road (I have no lights, because I'm an idiot). After a short distance, the chain snapped again. This time though, it snapped while in the rear mech. The broken chain parts caught on something, and dragged the arm with the jockey wheels clean off, bending parts of the arm and the thing connecting the rear mech to the bike's frame.
I'm okay with the concept of cleaning my bike after every ride, but I'll be damned if I start doing it DURING my rides. Maybe I should carry more spare parts? The multitool was really useful, but a proper chain tool would have fixed it better, or a spare chain would've been easier.
Also, at one point in my walk home, there was a bit of downhill off-road that I sat on my bike for. Couldn't see the bushes/brambles at the side of the trail, heck I couldn't even see the trail so I had to go by memory. I have a bad memory...
I brought all this hardship upon myself. I'm such an idiot.
Depends, on good, rider built trails I never ride when muddy, but the new 2 lane IMBA certified ADA access trails we get I have no problem tearing up
>hey, we see that riders are concerned that 90% of the good singletrack is illegal, so we spent 2 million dollars building a 1% grade perfectly smooth doubletrack that is less fun than a fireroad, just like you asked!
>please donate more money
Made a video of my ride the other day. First snow ride since last winter.. brushin up on the ol' frostytime trail skills. Studs would be nice for frozen roots..
ya need to work on camera angles/framing. Having all footage at the wheel level is boring. get a gorillapod and hook your camera up to trees or other shit for better angles. Seems a little narrow fov too.
Ohhh, pretty sure there was a bit of variation in there. And I was using a gorillapod.. but there isn't always a good tree location for mounting. What do you mean by narrow fov exactly?
Oh, alright. Yeah, just practicing trying to get better at makin these vids... will try to vary the angles more next time. Though I need some elaboration on the "too narrow fov" comments, and "more flow"??
There is intermittent cell coverage most of the way up the mountain. Unfortunately all the 60fps-1080p filming and then brutally cold wind at the top killed my phone battery just before the decent. Gotta watch that.
Also I've been winter riding for many years now, and if you see the video I'm not exactly going fast. I'm also skilled at falling.
Also.... it's a pretty popular trail, saw almost a dozen people out that day, and that's pretty quiet for this trail cuz it was a weekday.
I always wear my knee/shin pads/hand armour as well, tell people where I'm going... and this mountain is actually only about 15-20km from town.
Thanks for the concern tho anon.
regarding the flow.
some scenes are longer than they need to be thus the pace of the video is quite slow.
just play around with the editing.
you could also put some (not terrible) music underneath the video and try to match your cuts to the music , that way you have to think a bit more about your editing.
I like the opening shot ,but the rest could be trimmed up and timed a bit better.
as I said though , It's nice that you do this, and nice if you have fun with it, you'll get good at editing over time.
maybe try stuff like giving some shots of the trail or the location beforehand so the viewer can get a bit of a sense for your surroundings.
maybe look up some professional videos (for example the ones from redbull) see what they are doing
Got a new frame this week. Dat tire clearance.
Tried plasti dipping it as the singular stock colour is meh... pretty happy how it looks now just hope the stuff is durable enough as it costs big $$ in Canada compared to 'murica... about 3x as much.
Does anybody here ride rigid? Is the bumpiness really bad as they say? I'm thinking of replacing my bike's stock shitty suntour XCR with a rigid carbon fork. Would I still be able to ride the same terrain that I ride with a 100mm travel fork? Will riding rigid help improve my skill? Or should I just save up for a proper suspension fork?
Picture of my second baby from the other day's ride.
so far both people that responded to you are idiots.
More expensive forks do not behave the same. They ride a hell of a lot better. Going from an entry level pogostick spring fork to a decent air fork is a huge improvement. And going from a decent air fork to a good air fork is also a pretty noticeable improvement. Why is he talking about stiffness anyway? And he is wrong there too. Lowend forks usually have 28mm stanchions, better ones have 32mm ones(stiffer), then there are 34mm 36mm and if you start talking about downhill forks they get really big.
Now as for riding rigid YES you can ride the same trails you ride with a crappy 100m fork. You just have to go slower and learn to ride loose. When I first got my rigid I hated it but after a few rides I started figuring it out and have gotten to like it. There are somethings you can do to soften it up bit. Biggest ass tire you can fit on the front running the lowest air pressure you can get away with, flexy carbon handle bars, and nice grips. I just picked up a cheap set of titec hellbent bars which are some of the more flexy ones I could find and they help a lot. I also run a pair of ESI super chunky grips.
Which you should do depends on you. Honestly I'd say you would be happier with a decent air fork. Rigid is fun but more as an extra every now and again bike.
suntour xcr is an air spring. I don't know of any forks that don't have a damper. Coil spring forks definitely have damper, they're not pogo sticks, and are in fact smoother than air spring, just heavier.
I said lower travel forks are stiffer because you got less travel so they must run at higher pressure so they don't bottom out.
To ride with a crappy fork, try and move your body-weight back. Get a shorter stem and extend your arms and lean back more when going over rough terrain. I use clip in pedals so it might be easier to do this with clip in pedals instead of flats.
Rigid's are cool. Obviously way slower, but you can probably still ride some pretty gnarly shit. Just have to learn new techniques, and your upper body will surely take a beating.
I have an urge to try rigid again as I've been using suspension forks exclusively for at least 10yrs now. And using super plush 150mm travel forks for the last few years.... so I just bought me a voodoo zombie fork, fits a ~90mm tire so should be interesting to try out on the technical stuff and for trials. Will fit a nice fat tire for cusion and float in the snow, hope my surly nate tire fits it.
But good sus forks will probably, easily double or triple your speed on an intense descent compared to rigid... but should probably ride both anyway.
Comes in both air and coil. I haven't seen very many bikes come with the air version. Good coil forks can ride better than air shocks or at least use to in the past. I don't think a $100 suntour coil fork can really compared to a decent air fork.
oh and Suntour does offer an upgrade program if you bought the bike new. You can get a decent deal on one of their better air forks like the radion that way.
I'm looking to get back into MTB, and a shop near me has a closeout on the 2014 Salsa Spearfish 3 (http://salsacycles.com/bikes/archive/2014_spearfish_3), basically half off. It looks like a breddy gud bike, but would it be stupid to get a 29er when it seems like everyone is going to 27.5"?
No it wouldn't be stupid to buy a 29er. 29ers are still very popular especially when it comes to XC bikes like the Spearfish. If you were looking at something with 150mm of suspension travel then yeah a 27.5er would probably be the way to go but on a 100mm the 29er is fine if not better. Of coarse it really comes down whether you like it or not.
The trails have already been ruined. Mostly by horseriders, but walkers do damage too. Walkers are especially bad at making paths wider; they don't want to get their poor footsies a little muddy, so they step around the edges of the mud patch. At least on my bike I can go straight through a puddle, restricting any erosion to a small part of a path that's already fucked anyway.
Also, horseriders in my area never close the fucking gates. They should know better than that.
You want to look for at least rebound adjustment, anything without it generally isn't worth getting (there are a few exceptions but probably nothing you'd want or run into). Compression adjustment is nice too, either basic or beginning and end stroke.
For spring forks preload adjustment is usually useless, the better forks will have replaceable springs and preload spacers (at least Rockshox do, not sure on other brands). Air forks will be adjustable via the air pressure so makes them useful for varying rider weights and easier to set up, plus they're usually lighter, however some people don't like how they feel compared to springs (never used them personally, only rear air shocks which I like).
Other things you want to check out are the dropout type, make sure it fits your wheel, steerer size and length (1 1/8" straight, 1.5" straight, 1 1/8 to 1.5" taper), and larger stanchions generally result in a stiffer fork.
For travel length you should be alright going about +/-20mm of whatever your frame comes stock with, even with the same amount of travel forks can vary in length.
I'm not really sure. My sister had been borrowing the bike for two years but gave it back to me because she got a new one. It seemed fine when I picked it up from her house and rode to mine (~10km) but when I took it for a spin today I noticed gear trouble. thanx 4 help
Bought a used dixon a month ago... went on my 10th ride today. Been really happy with it desu lads. I'm starting to love the sport again
Mountain bikes are the greatest.
Anyone ever ride down a ski resort in the winter? Second time for me this weekend first time was a race in BC.
Fun shiz :) pic related, an experimental build. New frame... replaced my Cotic for more tire clearance. First time riding rigid in 10+ years... feels great with a fat tire though. Still a much more intense upper body and skill workout than a good sus fork, but very shreddable and fun. Power transfer is intense after riding plush 150mm forks for years. Freaking stoked on this setup.
>Anyone ever ride down a ski resort in the winter?
Not quite. The only time I've ever ridden on snow was about six years ago on a small hill (~15 m) on the grounds of my erstwhile school.
Any significant amount of snow is a rarity in my locale, so everyone was making the most of the hill with cardboard boxes, tea-trays and whatever else was to hand. I had just taken delivery of my first downhill bike and was eager to try it out. My first few forays on the hill were without incident, though my bike and specialised garb caught the attention of a few urchins. They offered me a small consideration in return for attempting the makeshift jump at the bottom of the hill. The hill was encircled by a waist-high fence, against which some plywood had been laid. A kicker had been fashioned by piling snow against the plywood, though there was no landing transition to speak of.
After two speed checks, I was ready to claim my prize. Rolling in from the summit of the hill, I kept my speed within a sensible range and concentrated on the kicker. The next thing I knew, I was involuntarily supermanning through the air. My flight lasted long enough for me to form the expectation that I was about to break my arms, but aside from a slight winding, I emerged unscathed. Luckily for my bike, I didn't land on it and it too was undamaged. The kicker was pretty tight, but the ultimate reason for the bike-rider separation was the fact that the plywood extended beyond the level of the snow, forming something of a kerb at the peak of the kicker. I had expected my magic new suspension to abate the jolt, but it didn't.
any /racers/ here? i race XC (and CX and road) and it's some fun stuff m8s
Welcome, road rider friend. I race mountain bikes
Not really a racer... I usually just enjoy racing myself and buddies. Though I would like to do some real races, the only race I've done so far was a downhill race at a ski resort in the winter. Lots of fun.
Pic related, someone from the exact race I was at... but fortunately I didn't scorpion myself at all :D
Uh oh, looks like a HARDCORE mountain biker is loose in the thread
>All you fair weather riders need to HTFU
See you in six months.
Downhillracer reporting in!
(pic from endurorace)
fox shorts with some legwarmers from craft.
It was a cold and wet race i tell ya!
Went out for a little climbing in the snow, wound up covered in mud.
The rear fender of my multi use commuter got snapped away (Planet Bikes Hard Cores aren't so hard core after all). So I decided to take the front fender and rack away too, put some knobby tires on and try it as my bad weather winter mtb. Seems good so far - I even managed to overtake few (slow) blokes with full sussers on a single track lol.
But fuck sake all this mud and slippery rocks - I'd rather have snow!
Riding rigid now feels pretty awesome, after years of plush long travel forks. Big tires help, but still can't replace fork dampening no matter how big they are.
Doing flat drops again was pretty sweet but hurt until I figured out proper form as sus can make you a bit lazy. Basically riding is new again... and it's a bit harder physically and technically. But traction is amazing with a 3.8" up front and low pressures to take the edge off. Will try smaller front tires eventually, but the surly nate feels incredible.
Whole new experience to ride each trail again, though I haven't yet... I've been doing snowy downhill laps at the local ski resort. Up to 58kph was fairly intense with skiers and boarders around, negotiating high speed turns and dips.
Half-fat bike yo but fat bikes are real too. Feels more balanced on a rigid bike actually, bigger 3.8" front with only a moderate sized rear tire up to ~3" rear. The legs can take an immense hammering compared to the arms/wrists.
Prolly slap the 'ol marzocchi back on eventually though just trying out different things.
So many different ways to build and ride bike!
Now that I've rode both Leadville and the Rampage site I can definitively say that XC is harder and everything else only exists for washed up BMX riders to make money before becoming a stock boy at Costco.
I bought this for 1999€ for my first proper mtb. Did I doned goofed? Rotwild R.Q1 FS 27.5 Comp
They can handle a lot. I just put my bikes thru a lot of abuse, I have just noticed that twigs and brush laying on the trail creates most of my broken parts. Like the. You run over them and they fling upwards for some reason and they get jammed in stupid places like a chain or spokes and shred your parts off because wood bends or dents while metal just snaps or cracks.
The relative difficulty of any given sport or competitive activity is largely a function of the size of the population which partakes in it. It shouldn't surprise anyone that XC is more difficult for any given participant to reach the highest levels.
That doesn't make it mountain biking though.
>Having a stiff link in your catalogue photo
Could be worse.
Typically, anywhere people go for a leisurely hike is bikeable to a large extent. Local land use policies may not be conducive to cycling, but that's a separate issue to 'can'.
Of course a mountain bike can handle twigs lying on the ground, what it won't take kindly to is blindly ploughing straight into a fallen branch with sub-branches reaching into your spokes and drivetrain.
I just went to a rigid setup recently after several years on a 150mm travel fork.
I was afraid of it being too harsh as I like to ride agressively and on very harsh terrain, so I went with a big front tire and this thing is FUN.
The pedalling efficiency is insane compared to a plush fork, yet the big tire does not do nearly as much that a suspension fork does. Fatt tires help on the sharp edges of things, but don't take a lot of force out of flat hits like ledges and drops.
Wayyy more upper body workout, but I like that. Bike is more controlled in some ways due to the constant geometry, but it is definitely a lot more of a challenge on technical trails. Yet a nice big tire gives loads of traction and takes the edge off things.
Yes riding rigid will improve skill and fitness, but you will never go as fast on rough terrain as a sus fork will let you. You won't need to though, it can be just as fun going a bit slower and feeling the trail more.
I'd say try it... but consider getting a fork that will fit up to a 4" tire or so. Worth it. I plan on trying smaller tires on it too, though no less than 2.75" for off-roading probably. Though you do kind of want some wide rims too for wide tires.
Also... steel forks have a nice ride quality, have a good flex to them, and I'm think carbon might be tooo stiff, but I haven't tried one to say for sure.
hey hey.... check out bikepirate.com for the biking trails in the area. I still have a lot more to try there, but all the ones I rode have been great such as Minnewanka, Star Wars, and Topp Notch.
It isn't like there is a standard. It should weigh whatever it needs to weigh for your budget, personal weight, riding style, whatever.
If you are a twig with a crazy budget and a serious racer it can be sub 20lbs. If you are a clyde that is more casual and has a budget it can be 30+lbs.
As light as you can get away with - work down to it. Keep in mind that the most significant difference in weight between XC and MTB components is in the tyres, which are easily changed.
I paid 2000€ for sub 13kg fullsuspension Canyon with full XT parts and Fox Float shoxs. But prices have gone up and afaik Canyon don't sell their bikes to the US. Probably something like sub 12 kg is what you're aiming for a hardtail. I guess you could find a little lighter carbon bike for that price too.
as sad as it is $3500 doesn't go a long way towards buying a lightweight full suspension xc bike. You are looking at 28lbs give or take a pound or so. Now if you get lucky and can find a left over or non-big name brand you might get that down to 26lbs. Hard tail and you can knock a few pounds off those numbers.
Took a break from the concrete and pedestrians today to enjoy the wet soggy leaves and wood logs.
29er is a really good, fast, beginner wheel size to build your skill level on. You will start to feel like you are driving a bus down a lot of tighter trails which is what really sucks about them.
PLS rate my poorfag bike.
Got DMR V8 pedals now.
Its not how you stand by your bike, its how you ride.
Got a decent Boxing Day ride in this morning, was a tad cold and muddy but that's all part of the fun.
We've got urban freeride shit going on, so as long as it's stairs and stuff like that, I'm good. But I don't really mind riding off road., that's where we practice.
Fuck yeah, another Spitfire bro!
Pic I got at the end of today's ride...
inb4 portrait - I wanted to capture the sky too.
Them feels when you link to the wrong post.
Same reason though, phone camera - lack of control over that shit + don't care enough.
Looked great on phone screen, looked shit on PC screen.
well theres no normal general online and it's mtb related anyway but here's my question.
I'm building my first mountain bike.
I got a deraileur that apperently is a e type.
my frame isn't e type specified.
can i make this work ?
do I just need the back plate or do I need something else.
also I ordered the pictured part thinking this was missing.
what is it for ?
Aren't E type derailers just trapped between the frame and bottom bracket cup (obviously it'll only work with external cups), just like some chain guides?
The ones that require special tabs on the bottom bracket shell are ISCG mount.
Do you have the components to try it? You have the derailer and frame, so then all you need is an external cup crankset (such as Hollowtech II) and a couple chainrings to see how well things line up.
I'm pretty sure E type does mount this way, I can't think of any other way it could work. I can't comment in regards to whether you can remove the E type mount and replace it with a regular seat tube mount.
I have everthing except the e type base plate
that's the bottom piece.
I see. I did a little more research and it seems the E mount is actually those two bolts and the plate is essentially an E type to BB adapter, where as there are E type specific frames that have threaded holes on the seat tube (similar to the regular single bolt direct mount).
I would imagine there is someone out there that makes an adapter from E mount to seat tube clamp but I couldn't find anything. If the derailer wasn't too expensive it may just be a better idea to buy a new one that'll fit without messing about.
Also, if you are going to be using an external bottom bracket you could buy the plate, might end up being the cheaper option.
No one wants to see your shitty ass bike AGAIN you dense motherfucker. Stop showing off your peice of shit walmart tier bike like it's Eddie Mercx's tour bike you cunt. Don't even try to post it under the guise of rating, you just want people to see how cool your bike is. You know how people rate it. Just look at your thread. Its shit, you're shit, kill yourself, get a job
Wish to buy a new mtb. Ride road only but moving to a new city in Feb with lots of XC and some downhill as well.
Can you please tell me which bike I should purchase? This is more for fun than to go fast. I want reliable parts because I have ridden acera shit in the past and they go out of alignment so quickly and easily.
I would like to ride downhill technicals but not crazy jumping black rated downhill stuff. More like green and blue. I would like to master it with a hardtail so NO FS.
Pic related Cheers
Frame Material Double Butted R2 Alloy
Fork Rock Shox 30 GOLD TK
Gearing 30-Speed Shimano SLX
Crankset Shimano Deore 22/30/40T Triple Chainring
Shifters Shimano SLX
Front Derailleur Shimano SLX
Rear Derailleur Shimano SLX
Brakes Shimano Deore Hydraulic Disc Brakes
Brake Levers Shimano Hydraulic
Hub Shimano Deore
Wheelset-Rim Alex DP-21 Double Wall Alloy
Tyres Continenal Mountain King 27.5" x 2.2
Chain KMC X10
Freewheel/Cassette Shimano SLX 10-Speed
Bottom Bracket Intergrated in crankset
Handlebars Reid Alloy Flat Bars
Stem 1-1/8" Threadless Alloy, Oversize
Grips Ergonomic Rubber
Saddle Reid MTB
Seatpost Reid Alloy 27.2mm Micro Adjust
Pedals Alloy Body and Cage, 9/16" Steel Axle
Frame Size 15"/17"/19"/21"
Frame: Norco XC MId-Modulus Carbon
Fork: Rock Shox XC32 27.5" Solo Air 100mm
Rear Shock: N/A
Headset: FSA No.42 Tapered
Handlebar: Norco Lite 720mm Flat Bar
Grip: Norco SL Silicon
Stem: Norco Alloy
Crankset: FSA Comet PF30 36/22
Bottom Bracket: FSA PF30
Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore Shadow 10spd
Shifter Front: Shimano Deore 2spd
Shifter Rear: Shimano Deore 10spd
Freewheel: Sram PG1020 11/36
Chain: KMC X10
Brake Front: Tektro Auriga HD-290 160mm
Brake Rear: Tektro Auriga HD-290 160mm
Front Hub: Shimano Deore
Rear Hub: Norco Alloy 142x12
Spokes/Nipples: Stainless Steel
Rims: WTB SX19 27.5"
Tyres: Schwalbe Rapid Rob 27.5"x 2.25
Saddle: SDG Circuit MTN Steel Rail
Seatpost: Norco Alloy
Did not realise the models were not shown on spec page.
Reid Terra Elite 27.5
Norco Revolver 7.3
I am something like a Large or Medium sitting at 180cm. Perhaps some input in that would be appreciated.
Unfortunately no geometries online on the Reid Terra. They are a bit of a house brand but I am considering it because it looks like such a deal.
I also forgot to mention that I have ridden a bit of MTB just easy fire trails and a bit of single track in my home town. I rode some entry level bikes and my friend had a bike that was less upright and more low with wider handlebars thaN I had and i really liked that. Are there ways to turn up right bikes into that more aero lower feel?
I'd rather fly a high saddlepost and do more XC terrain than do jump type stuff. Surely those two bikes are more than capable. Can you please help me or provide other alternatives that are more main stream branded? Thanks
Then look at the other Cotic models such as the Soul, or Solaris. Made in UK steel frames with excellent geometry.
For possible better value check out some of On-One's offerings.
Really really loved my BFe, but I recently replaced it with a burly Surly for more tire clearance.
Aggressive hard tail's are perfectly suitable for XC type riding, and if you're doing any proper type of XC there will be descents, and you will have much more fun and control with a slacker more capable bike.
If you can spend $1750 you can do a lot better than that Norco with a XC32 fork. For that kind of money I'd want a Reba level fork but at the very least you should be able to find a Recon. The only thing the Norco has going for it is the carbon frame and everything is just ok. If you are moving to a place with lots of XC trails wait and buy there. The probably have more mtn bike oriented bike shops than your current shops.
A normal XC bike will be fine for what you are planning to do but a slacker 120/130 mm fork hardtail is more fun and better at the downhill stuff and jumping if you do want to do a little of that.
Thanks for the recommendation. I am Australian so I get all the main stream brands as well so can't get the UK stuff. Cheers for the suggestion. I am thinking maybe I should spend 1k first on the Reid bike and if I really get into descents and stuff perhaps I could shell out money for a FS trail bike later down the track.
At $1750 alternatives are usually looking like this: (Giant talon 1)
Sizes S, M, L, XL
Frame ALUXX-grade aluminium
Fork RockShox 30 Gold TK Solo Air w/ TurnKey lockout, 100mm travel
Handlebar Giant Connect XC, Low rise, 31.8mm
Stem Giant Connect
Seatpost Giant Connect, 30.9mm
Saddle Giant Connect, upright
Shifters Shimano Deore, 20sp
Front Derailleur Shimano Deore
Rear Derailleur Shimano XT, Shadow
Brakes Shimano M355, Hydraulic disc, 160mm
Brake Levers Shimano M355, Hydraulic disc
Cassette Shimano HG50 11-36T, 10sp
Chain KMC X10
Crankset Shimano Deore, 24-38T
Bottom Bracket Threaded, Sealed
Rims Giant S XC-2, Double wall
Hubs Giant Sport Tracker Disc, 32h
Spokes Stainless Steel, 14g
Tires Maxxis Ikon, 27.5x2.2
I thought the norco was an exceptional deal. Don't much bout the difference in forks but I am sure the rest of the components cant be too different.
Try and find something with more than 100mm of travel. Most hardtails specced are still coming with relatively old geometry (short top tubes, long stems, narrower bars, steeper headtubes etc) Unfortunately most of the major companies make this retardedly difficult. Specialized do the Fuze with 120mm but it also comes with 27.5+ tyres which may be a deal breaker if you are as jaded as I am. Giant are useless in this regard and don't even bother. Best option could be Kona who have the Taro, Honzo and Explosif which all have at least 120mm and different depending on whether you want ali or steel frame and 27.5" or 29" wheels.
I hate when people think they know how to fit a person just by looking at the bike. You know absolutely nothing about the riders anatomy and you assume it is a male. The internet might not be the best place to try out fitting bikes for people.
That middle saddle looks like an Origin8 I have on my 80s bike. I like the Origin8 faux leather, comfy as heck
I had no Idea females need a pitch up on saddle. I always run horizontal to prevent ED (from what I read about fitment)
The trick to going faster in slippy conditions where tings like frozen roots are trying to push you down the hill is to be lighter. Unweight yourself as you go over stuff and keep a more direct, sturdy path while keeping a brisk pace.
Anyone used Saint Pedals?
I am looking at flat pedals for my hardtail for basic single-track and winter beater duty. I have found them for a bargain ( http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-saint-mx80-flat-pedals/ ) and think they look awesome, any reasons against them or any better suggestions for flats?
Yup, they're pretty good. Fully serviceable and the pin height can be changed using provided spacers. The only issue I've had was that my left pedal developed a bit of play around the axle- not enough to notice while riding though.
Never used them but they seem small, thick and not very grippy plus cup and cone bearings don't belong anywhere on a MTB. My MG-1's have been indestructible with zero maintenance so far, they could be a touch bigger, thinner and slightly more grippier but for the price ($30) they're decent.
They're pretty good, most of a dirt jumper/DH club I visit sometimes uses them almost exclusively.
They cup and cone bearings, so you have to service them more often than sealed bearings, but it's easy enough.
Some beautiful winter riding the past weekends, caving lines in the powder on some random ridge.
s'more panos from my hike-a-biking adventures... file size limit sux tho
bit cold out for them rightnow
I'm not sure I fear them... as much as I respect them, and the power they have. In my experience and other evidence it seems they are not exactly aggressive in most situations, just don't get near one during feeding.
Take proper precautions.... I make lots of noise out and carry bear spray in my water bottle holder in the summer, always careful to not leave behind food smells while camping.
I've seen bears while biking at least 2 times. First time, they were about to cross the fire road width trail I was on in a clearing, and I was bombing out of the forest at high speeds, no time to slow down... swerved around massive momma grizzly and her cub, as they jumped back from me. Speed was in my favour probably as they didn't even react afterwards. Big rush.... wish I had my gopro on that day.
Saw another group of bears maybe 100 from us meters away on another trail in the same valley on a different day.
Another interesting time, was we were hike-a-biking up some trail, no incident, and then on the way down there was a freshly severed deer leg in the middle of the trail... fun times.
I've seen (black) bears while out riding a few times, but never had any close encounters.
I worry a lot more about deer then bears (I've had deer jump out into the road in front of me while road biking), bears basically just want to be left alone and rarely attack humans.
Yep, pretty much... like I said there was no time to stop. I was in the forest, and the bear was in the clearing... soon as I exited the forest it was there about to cross the trail, really only had time to swerve around it... if I came down mere moments later it could have been a bad story.
Yeah, bears are pretty chill. Let's talk about all of our animal encounters while biking? I had a Spruce Grouse try to attack me once. Another time at the bike park, a marmot ran into the side of my bike on a downhill run, lol.
One time in the early days of my mtn biking making dumb decisions. We got over the peak of the mountain we were on, sun almost set already.... yeah let's just take the long back way home okay. Buddy tapes his cell phone light to his bars, and I rode behind with only his light to see. In the winter. No crashes or anything fortunately, but there was a loud catlike HISSS right next to me at one point. Cougar maybe?
I've seen a mountain lion, lots of coyotes, rattlesnakes, almost crash into turkeys all the time, and went right through the middle of a herd of elk once, no bears though, carry a G20 when I'm in the boons anyway just in case
I've had a god damned moose chase us before. I was riding and I heard a really loud exhale which spooked me. Guy in front of me didn't notice, I did not know what it was. I looked back and it was chasing the last person of our group. It was a slight downhill and the moose stopped and stared after chasing for a couple seconds. I forgot how big those fuckers are.
It's always the trees. I was road biking once and the sun was really bright. A huge shadow moved suddenly in front of me to my right from the bushes. It was a damned horse. I might have yelped a little. fuckin eh
I hate stopping in the middle of a trail or being asked to film something. You start to see all the spiders and webs you're riding through.
I currently have a 26 inch mountain bike with disk brakes. I could replace wheels with calliper brakes and 700c road wheels. I don't plan anything hardcore and am considering value of modification.
Just get slick 26" tires, that would be a much simpler, less expensive way to achieve the same thing - Panaracer Pasela's are good, or if you want the very best, Panaracer also makes up-market versions of the same tire for the Soma and Compass brands.