It's that time of year again boys.
Questions/tips for commuting in the winter.
Its always that same picture
why you faggots always go to google pics and take the first picture when you could have picture like this which represents riding your bike in winter much better
>visit countryside for high school reunion
>in some godforsaken village
>have 4 beers
>ride home dehydrated and drunk at 4am
>it starts to rain
>it starts to snow
i forgot how dark it is at night outside the city
it was really nice
the moisture started to creep in though at the end, i need to get some proper clothes before winter really hits
I live in East Texas. I know that feel.
> was 25 years old before I ever saw actual snow
> grew up thinking sleet was snow
> made "snowballs" out of that shit, everyone sustains facial fractures and minor concussions
> own one coat, haven't used it for three years running
> weather goes from "shorts and t shirt" to "shorts and hoodie" to "Jesus Christ, it's freezing weather! Get in the car!"
> never freezes for longer than 18 hours
Winter is never coming.
I live above the arctic circle and used to cycle to work for a few years. The winters we're quite chilly and we had a lot of show. Here's a few tips:
1. Mountain bikes are where it's at. The riding position is more suited for riding in slippery weather and ability to put 2"+ wide tyres is great. I rode a Kona Blast with 2,3" WTB Wolverine tyres and even if the snowplough hadn't yet come around I could get to work in a timely fashion.
2. If you've got ice instead of snow get studded tyres. Seriously.
3. Merino wool is your best friend. Get a set of long thermal underwear and socks made of the stuff.
4. Speaking of clothing. Layers really are your friend. With like three properly thought out layers even -30 °C is manageable for a commute. Mine was 8 km and I was fine.
5. Winters are dark. Use proper bicycle lights and having reflective details isn't exactly a bad idea.
6. Wear your helmet. Always wear your helmet.
In my experience there isn't a huge speed penalty by having a large aggressive tire in the front. The combo I'm going to try this winter is a beefy 2.35" Schwalbe Ice Spiker in the front and a fast rolling 2" Schwalbe Marathon Winter in the rear.
To accommodate the larger front tire I had to ditch my front fender and replace it with a PDW Origami downtube splatter shield.
i rode a 10 speed all last winter and i lived in a tiny ass 5x6 text that i had to sleep in diagonally, rode 5km into town from my camp. in hamilton, ontario
if you are so concerned about preparing for winter i suggest you just take the bus
Below Arctic Circle [Scranton, PA]
>2. If you've got ice instead of snow get studded tyres. Seriously.
And make the fuck sure they're Nokians.
Finns might be cucky, but they know ice/snow like a muthafucka.
So I'm thinking for winter gear (Midwest) I could get a couple of those underarmour 4.0 "brutal" baselayers and then get some arm/leg warmers, maybe some better glove liners. Anyone else find commuting success with a setup like this? In the worst parts of winter it gets into the negative temperatures but I've still got commitments that need attending to
Winter bike is ready but i will swap the Schwalbe Ice Spikers to Nokia Extreme this year. Don't get me wrong the Schwalbe's are great but unfortunately very noisy and thats why i am swapping to Nokia/Suomi Tyres.
Ahhh yes forgot to add i had to swap pedals since both pedals broke last winter, bearings grinded down totally and pedals stopped rotating.
The new ones are also cage pedals but of better quality and bigger teeth so the boots don't slip.
>>And make the fuck sure they're Nokians.
Schwalbe pro spikers are pretty damn good and nice volume. Probably overkill for most commuters though, the regular ice spiker would be enough.
How bad is winter commuting on a road bike? There's a lot of snow and ice where I live.
My first winter commuting I did it on a touring bike with 700x35 Marathon Winter tires. Loose snow is hella sketchy and my front wheel would get yanked 45 to 90 degrees in an instant, riding in the parking lane was virtually impossible since I couldn't keep the bike straight. The only way to ride was in a driving lane on the hard packed stuff or car tire tracks worn to bare pavement.
Since I was riding in a lane I'd run my lights in the day as well to encourage drivers to change lanes early whey passing (nothing I hate more than a last second lane change as it gives the cars directly behind the leader zero notice of my presence). Deep icy ruts on side streets are best avoided. For me a mirror was an absolute necessity as I dare not look back and risk veering into a loose channel of snow. There is a pretty good pathway system here that gets plowed all winter, so I'd leave early in the morning and ride the deserted streets, then take the path home when it was busier.
One thing to watch out for is transitions between different types of snow / ice, like the humps between tire tracks or loose stuff in a parking lane. Just like pavement seams, they can pull your tire and make you lose control. When I'd pull in to the parking lane to let cars pass, I usually slow down first before making the transition to the loose snow.
Weird I enjoy riding in loose snow.
With winter riding the same trick applies as riding motorbikes on gravel. Loosen the fuck up and let the bike find it's way through the snow. If you don't do that and try to keep the bike going absolutely straight you're gonna have a bad time.
Im totally fucked this winter, my commuter got squished by a car when it was locked up, and my only ride is a tallbike with an extended wheel base and a cargo bed imbetween the wheels. The bottom frame is a mountain bike with knobbies but I don't know how tallbikes handle in the snow.
Does anyone here wear glasses? I can never cover my mouth because I end up fogging my glasses. So I either have to risk reduced eyesight and have a warm face or be able to see shit far off and have a cold ass face. Tips?
A tallbike would be terrible on snow and ice.
I have to wear glasses myself: down to 15 degrees or so, ski goggles (the kind that fit over glasses) paired with a balaclava works well for me if I leave a space for my mouth and nose. Below that I have read that the way to go is to wear a paint respirator over the mouth and nose to create a ventilation system that can be fitted under a balaclava - but it doesn't get that cold very often where I live, so I have not tried that yet. Without such a system, when I absolutely have to have the balaclava covering my mouth and nose, I simply ride slower and focus on keeping my breath as shallow as possible and that minimizes fogging.
bada bada bada bada badaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Perhaps, the extended wheelbase on this one really makes a world of difference though. Its a thousand times stable than any regular one, I can trackstand at lights haha. I'm hoping the all the weight/knobbies/popping little wheelies will help with the little snow drifts that can redirect your front wheel. But homnestly I've never ridden one in snow so only time will tell. I probably have enough parts lying around to build up a shitty mountainbike if all else fails.
I have a pretty sweet respirator designed to fit under welding masks so that might be a good idea, never thought about that!
I've got glasses. I've never used any kind of face masks because I find them annoying. I have a half an hour commute and haven't had any problems so far and it gets down to the negative thirties here.
If you're worried about the cold grow a beard.
>tfw your eyelashes start gathering ice
>tfw your glasses are fogged up for minutes after getting inside
is the perforated mouth an acceptable balance of vapor/air movement & warmth at temperatures of, say, low 'teens to near zero fahrenheit?
u look like a 'chill' dude btw. would-grab-a-drink-or-two-with-at-a-chill-pub-we-both-like-&-have-pleasant-conversation-with/10
This. Everyone should ride in baggy cargo pants, oversized hoodies, and surplus paratrooper boots at all times. There is no way cycling-specific clothing could in any way be designed with a purpose in mind other than to look gay.
DUI-kun and his cousin, Nikkipoor
who even calls things they don't like 'gay' anymore? gbt 7th grade circa 2003.
different anon. i have no need for those shoes because i winter-commute in my sundowner gtx hiking boots but those look like they serve a well-executed purpose.
what do non-fags wear in 2015 again? relaxed-cut jeans, blown out nike running shoes and an under armour sweatshirt? cool. no thx
Not sweating the cold, this will be my 4th winter in nyc. Not expecting negative 30s but I've got an hour and a half one way commute, was just curious if there was some genius solution I've been missing out on.
The real trick to commuting in the cold is to work an inside job.
For me high humidity with near freezing temperatures is almost worse than -30C. In those conditions wicking clothing doesn't work well, in fact your clothing will actively collect moisture from the air.
Bacon has the right idea, with better visibility.
Need some advice on panniers and a rear rack, guys
The rack I was looking at (an Axiom) looks really sweet but I saw a guy IRL with one and it swings like crazy. That scares me. I want something stable so I don't have to pedal like a granny and slow down for bumps and turns.
Should I just bite the bullet and get a Tubus? I read some reviews that said they're not much better than cheaper racks but I don't like to buy things twice on the pretense of "saving" money the first time.
Maybe it wasn't attached correctly. Most racks are pretty stable. You can lose bolts if you don't use a thread locking compound (most newer racks come with it pre-applied to the bolts).
I have a massive Bontrager (out of production) QR trunk bag so I use Bontrager Backracks on all 4 of my bikes because I locked myself into their QR system for convenience.
Get a full rack, none of those seatpost bullshit that snap if you jump a curb or hit a pothole. Look on craigslist for panniers, you can get them for a fraction of the price.
Get a rack which doesn't have a platform. Sure, those things are supposed to be like a fender with the sheet metal on top but you're better off with a simple rack.
Yeah I've got eyelets on my seatstays, this guy had some weird contraption that hooked to a single mounting point that I assume was a brake caliper mount (didn't look too close).
But what got me about it was that I'd assume the real load bearing point is down by the axle (or the eyelets down there). It's the one in this picture. The one I'm looking at is similar but it's the "disc" version which has two struts for the seat stays instead of one in the center.
So I'm assuming that there's a stability issue with these, and maybe I should spend 3x as much for a Tubus Disco.
Oh yeah I'm definitely looking for a real rack, just trying to decide between spending $50 and $150. It's not going to kill me to spend $150 but I don't know if it's just bike bling for rando fashionistas (see: carradice, leather bar tape, etc), or if there's a real performance difference.
There is a performance difference, most racks out there are rated for 55lb, titanium racks are claimed to be able to carry 150+lb. You should weigh your options, balancing the price, capacity and gramz
The guy probably didn't have seatstay eyelets.
>Does anyone here wear glasses? I can never cover my mouth because I end up fogging my glasses. So I either have to risk reduced eyesight and have a warm face or be able to see shit far off and have a cold ass face. Tips?
Motorcycle helmet with full face visor
For anyone here who commutes on steel bikes in rain and snow (ie Dutch people), do you give the bike frame some kind of treatment so it doesn't rust? Can you store the bike outside without worrying about rusting?
You realize, of course, that a motorcycle helmet will only make it worse when you crash?
Bicycle helmet and motorcycle helmet standards are completely different, the foam in a motorbike helmet won't even begin to compress in a comparatively low-speed pedalbike crash.
You're strapping ten pounds of just fuck my shit up fam to your neck when a simple valved mask will do.
Don't. Not just for the traction, but when they salt the streets (as they love doing here in Germany), it will fuck up your bike. I use an old but well maintained MTB with studded tires in the winter. You won't be going fast anyway, so there's little use for the road bike.
Even with a mask on a motorcycle helmet its still fogs the lens until your moving and the vents start getting air. There's not much getting around it. I switched to a dirt bike helmet and goggles with tear offs.
> reflective details
I'd go full yellow waterproof jacket, as well as lights. Makes a big difference on dim winter mornings, especially on unlit roads.
Day flash strobe > SOLAS prismatic tape > yellow clothes. Also, multiple lights, preferably a steady and a flasher front and rear. Also, turn off the flasher if you're on a dedicated path, it's really obnoxious to other cyclists. I just use mine when I'm in dense, slow moving traffic. High speed traffic on long straight roads, I switch back to steady mode on max brightness where cagers have more time to react and drunk cager target fixation is a concern.
I don't want to say don't get a yellow jacket but on a dim morning (or evening), the color of your jacket only makes a difference within a fairly close range.
I also have some 3M reflective tape which is basically garbage compared to SOLAS tape but since I'm vain, I use the SOLAS sparingly and the black 3M tape on the black parts of my bike. Performance wise SOLAS blows the 3M out of the water.
Hi-vis yellow only works properly in natural light presumably because of the UV in sunlight. It does stand out amazing well on cloudy days and around dusk. But once the sun goes down its just yellow.
You do of course need reflectors and lights but yellow is still somewhat visible at night even without the UV pop.
That's why road crews prefer it over orange.
Question for people who live in humid/muggy climates that receive more rain than snow.
>Central Texas specifically
What type of tire should I get for the best traction on often slick, hilly, terribly maintained asphalt? I use a road bike to get to school and the roads around me are really rough.
>currently,700x25c skinny ass wheels with Panaracers
Slicks. Tires with tread only improve grip on surfaces they leave in imprint on.
28 Open Paves are the grippiest road tire i've ridden. They're amazing. Puncture protection or durability isn't great though. The grip, especially in the wet is ridiculously good.
4000s II and Pro 4 Service course both have excellent wet weather grip and are quicker, but the ride isn't as nice. 4000s II is a very durable tire, you won't get many/ any flats with them. Pro 4 is durable, but not quite as good. Ride is a bit nicer imo. Conti 4 seasons have marginally better grip than either, but they're not nearly as quick.
28 4000s II would be my pick.
Shoot the inside of the frame with rust inhibitor. Frame Saver is the name brand stuff for bikes. I use something else bought from Canadian Tire, Rust Cure 3000 in the automobile department: cheaper, more readily available, armed forces uses it on warships.
I don't leave it outside because of niggers. But i heard it's actually better to leave it outside because the cold tubes would suck the warm air and moisture inside the frame when you bring it in and it starts to thaw.
Reduces sweating on the bottom of your feet. My feet sweat like crazy during the winter.
I live in an area with snow that often piles up an inch or two. It usually makes my rear wheel choose its own line. I have a rear rack that I installed a wooden crate to carry my shit, adding quite a bit of weight on the rear wheel. Should I remove the crate or keep it on? Does having more weight on the rear wheel help stability?
I've got a pair of comfy waterproof Giros, they're fine for chilly weather but once it starts getting really nasty I find myself wishing for toasty liner gloves underneath and some sort of wind guard over the handlebars.
You might have to get full lobster gloves if your winters are harsh.
Good dexterity, OK insulation (fine to -15C), suspect pretty good in a crash, have niffty arrow on the back for signaling turns. They say you can use a touchscreen with the fingertips, but this is not the case for me. If it gets colder use bar mitts.
do you secure the mitts when locking your bike up? There have been cases of them getting stolen in my city, and I CBA to install and uninstall them everyday.
I'm thinking I could use a cable lock...not sure how that would affect the shape of the bar mitt
I got a pair of these neoprene gloves and I love them. I think they were like $35. They let the water in, but that water is warm. And they stretch over your hands.
Haven't tried them below the mid 30s in Freedom Units.
If im putting together a cyclocross bike from an old steel ten speed, should i consider putting fenders on it or are they not worth the trouble/money? winter around here gets really icy and snowy and im worried about them jamming up, but also i dont want a wet, cold ass
Daylight Savings Time is shit.
I need an obnoxious light/strobe for the back of my bike.
Any recommendations? Prices are all over the place... I don't know what I need to spend.
It doesn't need to light up any part of the road or area around me. I wont be riding in total darkness, but just as the sun is setting.
>only riding when the sun is setting
>implying the days aren't getting shorter
I like the cat eye red senso reflex model a lot. Also acts as a reflector, long battery life.
If you don't want that, get literally any red blinker from the hardware store.
How to be an asshole: the light
I used to have an older dinotte and I'd get yelled at by other cyclists on a daily basis
It was fun at first but I felt bad after a while
I have a Cygolite now, I actually think as a bike light it's better than the Dinotte ever was. But if you legitimately just want to be a dick, fuck everyone else on the road, be the cager of cyclists, get a Dinotte.
i have not ride fixie that much but as long as your a not an skidding fag , breaking with your leg is way more consistent than calipers in wet weather, again, only if you are sensible enough to break and not skid
I've got a bright obnoxious flasher and all it does is piss off everyone behind me and make them try to clip my arm with their mirror as they pass, so I leave it in steady instead.
Get nice pulsing light instead of a flasher, Cygolite Hotshot or Portland Design Danger Zone are a couple I've been looking at.
Its like a lullaby for motorists. The other mode is full on spastic, which is a bit much at night.
The thing I like most about the Danger Zone is that it defaults to ON when the batteries are inserted. A good enough jolt can turn off a light with removable batteries. If this happens with the DZ it just goes back to the first setting. I've had other lights turn off while riding at night.
>mfw dat neoprene smell
neoprene gloves are nice for that specific situation where it's cold and wet but god damn that chemical stink
Can confirm a super china"CREE LED USB front light" from eBay and a USB charging battery pack are the best value for bike lighting.
The light was 5 dollars, the battery pack was 20.
The pros are I can use the battery pack for multiple items and has a solar panel on it. The light is fucking bright. Seems to have solid water resistant construction.
The cons are that it only has a handlebar mount option, this specific battery pack can't put out enough juice for both lights I bought. The light could be more defuse. There are lens kits available tho.
I have one of these lights, the light is great but those chinese battery packs, holy shit. The thing used to last a good 10 hours on a full charge in the beginning and then that dropped to like one hour after about 10 charges. Now the thing is virtually useless because you can never trust it not to die on you when you need it.
I heard they actually use battery cells from the trash (for example from old laptop batteries) for these packs so they can sell them for cheap and make it seem like they work. Wouldn't surprise me one bit. I know it's tempting but seriously, never buy anything on eBay that comes from fucking China.
For 20 dollars, its hard to complain. I mean at that rate, I can through it out and buy another one and still be ahead of if I bought a lezyne light.
This ones from a reputable brand too, so that might help.
Recommend me rear light that resistant to cold. I remembered, that my shitty rear light tend to stop working when temperature is lower than -15 C. Planned to replace it, but eventually forgot about it.
It's not the light itself, but the batteries. LEDs get brighter and use less power in the cold, but all batteries lose current even faster. Ni-cads are the best, just run them all the way down once in a while to avoid memory effect. For myself I'm all done with batteries, dynohub all the way. Lights just part of the bike like a motorcycle. Come on when they should be on, don't turn off till it's ok to turn off.
>tldr: Led hardware store blinkie light with AA ni-cads, pleb.
I've been using the Endura Gridlock "overtrousers" for a while for MTBing and commuting in the winter. Just a thin shell, blocks the wind and moisture. Pretty happy with them, usually pair with just a helley hanson merino wool base layer, if it's -20c or colder then a mid layer as well.
If you don't know exactly what you want, the Schwalbe Winter is what you want. There are better tires for particular jobs, and there are cheaper tires, but there are no better all-round at $70. Mine are two winters old and will be going back on anytime now.
Those are probably sufficient for icy stuff or really shallow snow, but not much tread depth.
Also check out the Schwalbe Pro Spiker Evo, if you want to spend a little more but a huge increase in traction. It has 361 studs (ever knobs), and a spiky tread pattern for penetrating snow. It comes in 57-622 (29 x 2.25) which I believe is the same as 700c.. but assuming your frame can fit it, this is probably the best tire you could get for snow/ice commuting.
Are there any winter-specific tires below 700x32? The nokian A10s look ideal but I can barely fit 700x32 under my fenders, and commuting without fenders in winter slop is obviously a no-go same as riding on ice without studs
Schwalbe Winter comes in 700x30; I doubt they get much thinner than that. You are not going to find high-pressure tubulars with treads and studs! Totally agree about needing fenders (and lights!) but if your 'going fast' bike can't fit them perhaps it was not meant to be.
triple doubles for the most important tip in the thread
a lot of the guys I work with start getting fucked by snow drifts and ice because they panic and slide out. it's okay if your wheels face 2 different directions more often than not, the forces maintaining your momentum and balance don't rely completely on traction
>every time I bike for linger than 15 minutes I end up soaking wet from sweat
Obviously it isn't that much problem in summer, but what should I wear when it's 2 degrees? What about -15? I don't want to get some lung inflammation or whatever.
look at under armour heat gear and cold gear compression/base layers
they are constructed of moisture wicking fabrics. it pulls sweat away from, and helps control your body temp. you stay dray and cool or warm.
For some reason I feel that my base layer doesn't help at all when it should allow the moisture to get out but all of the water gets trapped by my sweater/jacket either way.
Maybe I should invest in some high tech jacket(?)
I found UA cold gear to be useless, like a sponge that just absorbs moisture and holds onto it. The UA Base stuff is nice though, I have a 2.0 shirt and might get a heavier one and something for the legs.
No matter what you wear you will probably end up kind of sweaty. Try starting off wearing less. When it is cold out the temptation is to bundle up but once you get moving you overheat. When I start off in the winter the first 15 mins or so are pretty chilly but then I warm up and am fine.
Personally I really like merino wool, like Icebreaker or Smartwool for base layers. They are super warm and they don't stink after one wear. They are very expensive though.
If you push yourself hard your body produces lots of heat. As long as you keep moving you can get away with surprisingly little clothing. If you get soaked in sweat in cold weather you are wearing too much clothing.
Wear less stuff. Bring a bag with extra clothes, so you can add/remove layers as required and for safety if you do longer rides. When its cold, windchill becomes a huge factor, so if you do longer stretches of climbing/descending you should stop and adjust your clothes.
Body heat is generated in your muscles. Legs and core will be plenty warm, but head, neck, hands and toes need good protection. Keep them warm and toasty, once they are cold they take a long time to thaw up. The best place to swap clothes is your upper body, a its quick to warm up.
And if the temperatures drops down below -10° Celsius or even less its time to stop training. Heavy breathing in air that cold can be bad. Try to take it slow. But honestly i´m no expert on the super arctic stuff, cause the temps round me rarely drop that low.
>surprisingly little clothing
I disagree with this "surprisingly"
I grew up in a place where it never snows. My first ride in really cold winter, I made the mistake of thinking "oh well I'll just be making a lot of heat so fuck everything I'll just wear wool socks and wool knit gloves and some light clothes.
Your core can generate a lot of heat but your toes and fingers, not so much. Within a half hour you'll be in pain and have trouble shifting or braking, within 1 hour you'll realize you've made a terrible mistake, there won't be a 2 hours because by then self-preservation will have kicked in, and hopefully you didn't get frostbite. Therefore, cycling-specific stuff is good because wind is a major factor when it comes to feet and hands.
Also seconding the comments about merino, it's a miracle fiber.
I prefer the wicking properties of polyester base shirts over merino. The trick with synthetics is find products that are advertised as being anti-microbial / anti-odor, because regular synthetics stink after just one ride.
Merino keeps me too damp for my liking during strenuous activity. But I don't mind it on my legs which don't sweat as much.
One thing that seems to help with hands and feet are very thin close fitting liners. My icebreaker glove liners are probably 100g/m2 weight. So thin as to seem useless, but my hands are noticeable colder without them.
My smartwool liner socks are a bit thicker, but thin enough I can wear them inside my heavier wool socks. And like the pic says.
Good on snow, but ice will still land you on your ass if you don't have studs. I did several days of icy commuting on a fat bike without studs before giving up. One day I had to ride most of the way home on the grass beside the MUP because of freezing rain.
Probably best to do loops close to home until you figure out what clothing setup works best. Or plan your route with spots you know you can warm up along the way or change into something dry (coffee shops / fast food restaurants etc). Takes a while to figure out how far you can get while maintaining a safety margin. Then you forget all that shit when spring rolls around.
I've started keeping notes in my Excel log of what the temp / wind was, what I wore and if I was too hot / cold. One thing it took a while to notice is that road conditions affect what I need to wear. No snow = faster with less effort = more wind chill and less body heat. Snow = slower and more effort = less wind chill with more body heat generated. I typically need just as much clothing for around 0C before it snows, as I'd wear for -10C after there is snow. Maybe part of that is gradual acclimatization early on.
Sweating can kill you if it evaporates fast.
Wool will buffer that by soaking it up and only slowly shedding it. A windbreaker will also slow that down. That's how vapor barriers work. If you have decent base layer, mid layer, and shell you'll be good even if you sweat.
>repair bike light
>buy 10000 lumen $100 head lamp
>aim it at over people's faces
why do people do this
>That's how vapor barriers work
I dont think you want a vapor barrier, the reason that people are able to go into extreme cold conditions like Everest climbs is because their are matierals like Goretex that allows the vapor of persperation to exit while not allowing water to enter and get the fabric wet
2260J/g is the amount of energy that gets carried away when water evaporates. There is no way around the physics. It's just a question of how fast you lose heat vs how much you produce. Bet being naked is going to be drier than goretex.
What the fuck man?
Still air does not conduct heat well
Moisture conducts heat like a motherfucker
Wool does not retain moisture well. Also it's microscopically very squiggly which means it can trap more air between its fibres. More still air = more insulation.
You want the least skin contact with sweat as possible. So the base layer should be something that wicks moisture fast. I have both wool and technical polyester base layers and they do the job fine.
Second layer is something that keeps you warm and allows some build up of sweat. Cotton is bad because it swells up and locks moisture in while it pushes air out. While the base layer should be as thin as possible you need moderate volume in the second layer. If you can't afford wool, fleece will do fine.
Final layer is for protection from the elements. You want to have control of the air flow. I have a cc-skiing jacket. It has a wind-blocking membrane in the front and vented panels on the back, drawstring on waist( super important, you don't want heat escaping from the hem. cold can creep up the back of your jacket and it feels straight up nasty chilling your kidneys). High collar with drawstring so I don't get wind down my neck and chest.
This works well in winters if you don't want to get cycling-specific apparel.
I remember 2 years ago, on a Nishiki Colorado, temperature is -28C, wind is 25 m/s (storm), no longjohns, nothing protecting the head, 8km home. I thought i would die but i live and i have learned.
Windproof clothes in layers, protect the head at all cost.
>Because people want a weapon
Then why not just spend that money on a 2 watt laser and mount that on your bike?
It's certainly fucking bright enough, and you can blind/burn dickhead pedestrians with it.
Yes, what you say is true but is not the whole picture. You're talking about conduction heat loss. But phase change is probably an even greater factor in cycling because of profuse sweating and lots of airflow. Phase change heat exchange is also the reason wool actually _heats_ up when it absorbs moisture. Wool can absorbs up to 50% of its weight in water vapor (turning it back to liquid), which is quite a few joules. Once saturated it will act just like any lofty material like polar fleece.
There's also radiation heat loss but not worth mentioning.
Sorry, I'm lost. So, you're against wool?
(I'm just really curious as it's a big problem for me)
If I decided I want to look gay and buy cycling specific clothes what would you recommend?
Not at all against wool. I think it's great, heating up is a plus. A bit heavier than polar fleece. Windbreaker is important is really what I'm saying. It does reduce inductive loss by creating a layer of still air, but more importantly in cold weather it acts as a vapor barrier and prevents evaporation losses.
How the fuck do you guys keep your ears warm with a helmet on?
Putting an ear cover under the helmet makes it fit weird and feel less secure, not to mention completely fucking up my earbuds. What do? Just get over it and ride?
nothing better than operator gear for winter ops
A light weight merino balaclava is nice for fall temperatures that hover around freezing. Keeps ears, neck and chin warm. Plus the material is thin enough you can easily breathe through it if you pull the mask over your mouth. Its more difficult to breathe through heavier balaclavas, and exhaling inside them can fog glasses.
Polartec power stretch balaclavas are nice for colder winter days since you can still breathe through them. I like the style where the mouth covering is a separate piece of material as it adds the flexibility to tuck that part under your chin when not needed (like going down wind). I have one of these http://www.cabelas.ca/product/60424/cabelas-polartec-power-stretch-balaclava , it appears to be discontinued but there should be dozens of other brands just like it.
A balaclava is one of those things I really insist on having in merino wool. The mouth gets stinky really fast with all the bacteria there (and you get to breathe that with every huff and puff) and wool keeps that in check better than synthetics.
Meanwhile, in Idaho...
>made me feel good too
Count of road, mountain, or bikes without fenders and lights: 2. Why does everyone around here ride toys on the street rather than practical vehicles?
Buy a car with winter tyres
Figured out a new winter hack.
1.Heat up a Hot Pocket.
2.Wrap it up in tin foil.
3.Store in jersey pocket.
4. Keeps you super warm under a jacket.
5. When its 3/4 way into a ride have a warm snack.
My shoes are mostly mesh. Winter is EXTREMELY short here, so no need to buy a separate pair of shoes for a month long season.
I need some warm socks. Something to keep my feet from becoming ice-cubes in 50-60 degree weather.
No, this is stupid fucking advice. Synthetic is better than merino but even aside from that, balaclava is not necessary at freezing. Wear a ski helmet instead of a bike helmet -- very comfortable (much moreso than even the most comfortable bike helmets) and as warm as a winter hat. Also designed specifically to be compatible with ski goggles, which are good for winter cycling because they keep your face warm and clean from mud that gets sprayed up. Of course you could wear normal cycling glasses (or no eyewear) with the ski helmet instead if you prefer.
For the really cold days, combine ski helmet+goggles with either a thin synthetic balaclava or a half-face mask that covers only mouth and nose.
Ski helmet bro. Integrated ear flaps. Go to a ski shop and try some on. I highly recommend Giro, most comfortable by far imo, but most comfortable is subjective to the shape of your head and your personal preference.
Synthetic is better. For insulation, Sporthill 3SP is great. Outer layer, Gore-Tex non-insulated rain jacket is a good option. On legs, I like Endura cycling rain pants (which can be worn over something like 3SP or tights on cold days)
Also you can just wear a raincoat. I bought a discounted off season raincoat with zipper under the armpits for a hundred. Those waterproof breathable stuff will be more comfortable in the summer, and is a good investment. But when it's winter it doesn't really matter that much because the sweat will condense and freeze on the raincoat.
Those warm-up tracksuits work well too, more breathable but less waterproof. You'll look like a slav.
>ride primarily road bike
>keep old mtn around just for snow
Not fucking up my baby with that road salt. Mountain bikes handle it well, even shitty bikes. I've biked on ice and several inches of snow fine. Tried going through a snowbank once (about a foot and a half high.) Didn't crash; the bike just stopped softly. It was a fun experiment.
Only time i had a problem in winter is when we had one of those freezing rains. Came outside and my bike was encased in ice. I got a lift home from a friend with a pickup. Snow isn't an issue, that fucking freezing rain bullshit is what kills you.
>inch or two
Hahahaha, we call that a dusting
Nah, they're shit. Just wear track pants with that whooshy material. I bike in rain in them and it's fine enough.
Me and a classmate were discussing whether one would want really fat tires for snow, or thin tires (to basically cut through the snow.) I've seen both been used.
We didn't come to any decisive conclusion. Anyone knows?
It depends - thin tires are great when you have up to three inches of snow, without a layer of super slick ice underneath. But put ice into the mix and thin tires have no margin for error - ride a section of off-camber pavement with slick ice and you'll go down right away on skinny tires, but with fatter tires you'll have more surface area and that will give you more time to pass the icy section/skid/dab.
Mhm. We touched the topic of ice as well and figured quickly fat tires probably would keep you more stable. Snow is rarely a problem/danger by itself (unless it's all slushy), the ice is always a much bigger threat. I've had one incident where the snow felt like it grabbed the wheels, wasn't more than two maybe two and a half inches, but I still had to pedal in downhill to get anywhere - Weird, but not dangerous.
I remember biking last autumn on a very dubious path every day, was sure one of those trips would be the end of me. Some days I would slide sideways to the edge of the road because of the curvature of the tarmac, luckily didn't have any problem keeping the balance. Not sure how that would have gone with hybrid or super skinny tires. Don't think I would dare try.
So what the fuck is going on with winter this year?
I've been holding off on getting carbide studded tires because it looks like it's never gonna snow.
57 degrees on my ride home, the only thing that made it interesting was the dense fog and the rat that jumped on my leg.
Snowed once but mostly melted here. Some ice on east/west running streets but I haven't put the studded tires on yet. Also patches of ice around intersections as water that falls out of car tail pipes during acceleration freezes to the road. Been hovering around freezing for daytime highs, but for the next few days it will be warmer.
I remember the winter of 97/98 during the last big el nino being just like this. Very little snow during that entire winter.
can i get a scarf recommendation
also a glove recommendation would be nice too
I'm from San Diego so it's not exactly snowing down here. But I would like a warm scarf,
Thinking of blowing money on this
Looks comfy as fuck but probably excessive for the UK.
I just fitted winter tyres on my wheels. I used the stock inner tubes (I just got the bike) which said 28-32mm, but the outer tire says 700-35C. It measures about 33mm on the wheel.
Should I worry about it, buy a correct sized tube or just see how it goes? I haven't ridden it yet, I thought I'd ask first..
How does /n/ feel about something like this?
In my country it doesnt snow at all, the cold is not that bad, it just rains a lot so my problem is getting to work with soaked clothes. Are these that much of a bad idea?
>brief dip below 32 this weekend
>ok now I'm gonna finally order those studded tires!
>high of 70 this thursday
what the fuck, winter. I don't want to waste $120 if it's going to stay like this
Just get a fucking velomobile if you want to commute dry and warm.
Not at all. You obviously have no idea of production costs and the money-to-value conversion factor. They are just the price they are supposed to be. It's a high end device, manufactured with high end components and high quality carbon fibre or fiberglass shells, Handmade In Europe. If you're too poor to afford a new one, you can always buy a second hand one, or a cheaper model, which will go for less then new carbon roadbikes. There are guys on this board who pay 3000 for a carbon roadbike. The point is- if you enjoy cycling, you will get the goddamn money for it, someway or another.
And if you live in the West and you have a normal job you can also afford one. My guess is you're still a student with zero to little income.
>spend ~800$ on winter riding jacket, winter bibs, and cold/wet weather shoes
>December in NYC
>the temperature will be around 70F tomorrow
FUCK I need gloves. I just rode home from work about an hour ago and it's windy and cold now and my fingers felt like they were going to fall off, jesus.
Ive got some liners and some overgloves but i guess im using the wrong materials. please help me out. point me in the direction of gloves to keep this bastard wind out so i don't freeze my fingertips off that also won't destroy my wallet
My cheap solution is to get some wool glvoes (milsurp) and wear those as a liner under a pair of ordinary winter/ski ski gloves. That works for me until the temps approach 0 (-17c), then it's time to wear lobster mitts over the wool - unfortunately I have not found a cheap source for these.
I don't like to be soaking wet when I get to the office, my bike tires aren't that wide and don't have thread like mountain bike tires, so they slip when I take turns on the rain, I use shoes that have relatively flat bottoms like Vans, and they slip of the pedals sometimes when wet. My work clothes are either in the pannier or the back pack and if they get wet that will be an issue.
There are no showers in the office if I get cold from being soaked I can't just shower and get my body temperature up.
i just ran 23c gatorskins in a sudden hailstorm chicago winter
made like 37 in tips in 2.5 hours.
left before it got wet instead of hail
but hail was such a bitch i had to go buy sunglasses and be late for work (delivery rider)
any tips for bike care during winter?
I'm afraid of road salts. Most of the time in Sweden it's not really snow, it's just a shitty slush of road salt, dirt and very watery snow, which fucks up the bike pretty hard
I wash my drivetrain off with hot water after every ride but i don't know at all about bike maintenance, like I figure I should buy some kind of hydrophobic oil and spray all over the drivetrain but is that it? I store it in my garage which isn't really heated. It usually doesn't drop under 0 degrees C but is it better to store inside?
idk if it's related to winter or not, but i have a question related to cycling and i hate making threads.
I noticed a vibrating feeling in my dick last night as i was falling asleep, and today it's still there. A quick google told me that it might be nerve damage from cycling. Any body have experience with this? is it serious?
I've ridden up and down hills for about 2 hours a day for the past 4 days in ~40deg.
The SI brochure was professionally typeset by folks who understand non-breaking spaces. If you're replying to a forum that extra space is just as likely to strand the unit on the next line! My keyboard has no key for a non-breaking space (or a °) so I just say -10C. It's either that or American units.
Yes, you are bad. Please embark on a course of intensive study on the SI Brochure.
The SI Brochure does not prescribe any modifications to the proper use of SI prefixes, units and unit symbols in the event that non-breaking spaces are not available, nor does it excuse their improper use in the event that characters required for proper use are not available directly from the keyboard.
As someone who has never done bike maintenance before (not the guy you replied to, I'm a newbie with 3 months of riding a well-used '75 fuji special tourer to my name), aside from washing with warm water (which will be cold af in my garage but whatevs) is there other stuff I should do or be doing? Last night was my first snow rider for the record, and it was only really snowy on my uncleaned driveway. Even so I figure I need to do stuff now that my brakes are squeaking a good deal for example.
>is there other stuff I should do or be doing?
Why do bike maintenance?
a) increase reliability
b) decrease cost
Keeping a bicycle clean helps by revealing damage that could go undetected if covered by dirt. Also a clean bike helps keep your clothing clean.
Like more complex machines like cars, bicycles need regular maintenance to work well. What and when depends on the conditions you operate your bicycle in.
Before each ride:
Know what tire pressure you want and check that you are in the correct range. You should have an air pump in case you need to add pressure. With a little practice you can guess your tire pressure with your fingers; when you start you should check with an air pressure gauge.
Some simple things I do after every ride:
1) slowly rotate the tires checking for embedded glass or other debris. deal with whatever is found, remove it, check for air leaks, maybe put on a dab of glue to seal the hole or put in a tire boot.
2) lift the bike (maybe 150mm or 4in) and let it bounce on its tires and listen - you can hear if something starts making a strange noise - rattling, clanging, etc..., and if so you need to investigate further
3) wipe off the brake levers, the seat, and maybe other parts of the bike so that they are clean the next time I go to ride
So you're saying that -10
°C is really acceptable?
>somebody might need to re-read something
>Mixing unit systems
>Abusing SI prefixes and unit symbols
Please re-read the SI Brochure.
Of course not. Inserting a line break between the number and the unit symbol to prove a point is not permitted.
>The numerical value always precedes the unit, and a space is always used to separate
the unit from the number.
I don't know how much clearer the BIPM could have made it.