Gunpla / Plamo General
***READ THE GUIDE***
***READ THE GUIDE***
For those new to gunpla/plamo or even just new to this thread; please read the guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model". If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!
>Why won't anyone answer my question?
Try being specific, especially about your materials and process. Post pictures whenever possible; even if the kit/part looks bad, you are more likely to get help posting pictures.
A guide to other types of plamo:
Kawaguchi Gunpla tips:
http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1 AND http://gundma.imgur.com/
Another gunpla guide:
February Restock: http://pastebin.com/JN75W8vU
Old Thread >>13859471
Our next Group Build!
Basically what this means is that rather than the mobile suit being fresh out of a factory, it's quite the opposite. Whether it's trudging through dense jungles or dodging debris in asteroid belts, your mobile suit has seen some better days.
You've been out in the field for quite a long time now, nearly half a year of active duty in the front lines and your personal mobile suit's pretty banged up. What's worse is the fact that there isn't a maintenance bay within several thousand kilometers of your local area that's capable of making any major repairs. Your unit's engineering crew has resorted to patch work and jury-rigging to keep your machine operational. Stray fire might have crippled its legs and arms or otherwise dealt considerable damage to a mobile suit's systems meanwhile some units have simply lost bits of armor and panels to the elements and have been forced to patch weld metal sheets over the exposed inner workings.
In any case it's beaten to hell but somehow you and your team have somehow kept it chugging along and now command's ordered all units operating in your theatre to fall back to form a defensive line against the enemy offensive.
Deadline: March 7
Send submissions to: email@example.com
Reposting futaba Grimgerde thread.
Oh those silly Japs.
>HGUC GM command (2003)
>Will keep in one piece even if it's hit by a nuke
>Only the saber handles on the back are a bit loose and will fall off if you touch them too much
>HGAC Wing (2013)
>Mouth plate snapped in half when I was cutting it off the runner
>Practically everything keeps coming off
? ? ?
FLAT finally arrived!
The surface detail is great for a NG 1/144, and it is surprisingly amazing to pose because the construction is so different from typical suits. I'm gonna paint this guy when I finish some other kits so no stickers for now. Here are some of my favorite poses with the kit.
Never before seen pose, literally impossible except for the powerful FLAT
How many kits does one build before they fully master the art of removing nubs with a knife/sandpaper without leaving any shitty white marks?
Because I really hope I don't have to live with all these shitty fucking skirt pieces I ended up with on all future kits
What qualities make one say it's nice?
Is there a lot of detail for a SD?
Do the pieces fit together really well?
Does it come with extra equipment?
Are the stickers special in some way?
Is it just an easy build with interesting pieces, making it fun?
I'm interested in getting one and I would like details from someone who seems to know them.
Buy a half-decent nipper. Cheap ones like $10 wire strippers pinch the plastic instead so clipped nubs fly off into the abyss when you clip them. Good ones will instead cleanly cut the runners, which also reduces stress on the plastic on the parts.
Also read the guide.
need some advice for a custom color scheme for a barbatos project ill be working on soon. dont know what to make the light pink parts to, and dont know what i want to switch the dark blue to.
Yo planning on a tri-tone color scheme for my Graze since it's kind of dull otherwise.
Truth be told I don't have and eye for color coordination so any feedback would be appreciated
Someone here made something similar a while ago.
thanks for the reference
yes i know that. please consider reading my post first.
aiming for a red samurai kind of vibe, esp with all the melee weapons in IBO.
Yes, it's a BB Legend and they're all nicely detailed
Not really but I guess the green ones are sparkly to match the sparkly clear green plastic
The only Legend BBs that aren't great are like Versal Knight because it has just too many stickers and Musha Victory because a third of the plastic you're paying for is in that gross gold and the basic kit without those parts is kinda boring
Ok tweaked the arms a couple more times
which do you think works best?
This kit came out yesterday how the fuck do these moonmen paint their kits so fast
Not even gonna bother reading this thread senpai.
I have these sitting in my closet for the last year or so.
Someone take them off my hands.
Never gonna happen. There will always be marks.
And trying to get rid of them without painting / covering up will just make it worse.
>do it knife only.
why would i do that? the person you originally replied to was asking about using a knife/sandpaper. With those 2 things you can completely get rid of nubs. You just have to have the different grit sandpaper, a fresh exacto blade, patience, and technique. Don't lay down your shortcomings like it applies to everyone that builds gunpla.
>go to mall to play arcade games and buy gunpla
>get gunpla from this generic anime/pop culture store
>they have a wall of different grades and a PG Strike Freedom assembled in the window
>walk into store
>gunpla shelf is replaced by rows of those fucking funko pop figures
I fucking hate those stupid things, every damn store has a billion of them and I can't understand how much you'd have to hate yourself to want one.
probably gonna spend a bit getting the recolor to align with something like this
If you're going for a red samurai look, you might want to take a look at Musha Gundam for comparison.
So I ordered this guy a couple of minuted ago and it costs some fucking 1610 yen. Anyone know where to buy gendums for a low price?
aare you paying shipping on it? if not then thats not an awful price
the matsukage has rotating tracks iirc. thats why it fucking costs 150 base
yeah that's what I mean; it looks cool but they would have to turn around in a big circle even if the 2 sets of tracks are bendable like train cars
Just kidding I love fed suits but they get seriously shafted by Bandai as far as variations go
got the X for the Under the Moonlight paintjob already.
really weird when models are actually up for Amazon Prime. now i just need to determine
spraypaints and wait for warm weather.
Everything but the bottom right corner are Rebake's apparently
I fucking hate the name Rebaked, sounds like something a stoner would call it. Make me want to paint a pot leaf on the shield and go the the local pot store and buy four blunts so it can hold them in its hands.
Kinda got a Testament vibe going too.
Not as bad as the 1/144, but damn it's still more than I would have liked.
The NG Kimaris, otoh, seems to have almost no stickers judging by the pre-release images. Should just be the eyes and maybe some unnecessary foil for the hip joints. Grimgerde also appears to be relatively sticker-less.
This is why we can't have nice things.
Also, post where you keep your gunpla!
I should have asked here or gone through a review before buying, but man do I regret getting the V2 Assault Buster. I love Victory which is why I got it, but this kit is just a pain. The hands are pretty shitty, no beam sabers, limited articulation, and the cannons on the back in the Buster or Assault Buster modes are pain in the ass to move - they're on a ball joint that pops out if you even try to move it adjust it. Terrible. I guess I'll keep it in a hybrid of the Buster and Assault modes since gunpla is freedom and all that, but for my second kit it really hasn't been pleasant.
And so is this. Didn't expect that thread to answer my questions so quickly.
Add some modifications and you can make a pretty decent Metal Wolf.
US stock market was dipping, but so was the Nip one
Yen is holding strong, something about foreign investors dumping their life savings into it because fears of a worldwide depression
bah, i need to atleast wait til next paycheck, i might just order 2 X1's since the paint i'll get for the Moonlight X is the same pattern as the Crossbone X2
So if you live in the US it's Presidents day weekend. What are you working on this potentially three day weekend?
I just finidhed my GuP tank. Went really light on the weathering as in the series they are well maintained.
Yes these are two good suggestions. If you like the MS mode of the Zeta, want an updated cool design of it, and don't care if it doesn't have a waverider mode then definitely get the Lightning Zeta. If waverider mode is a must for you, then the Zeta Plus certainly gets the job done while looking pretty badass in the process. Also don't sleep on the Rezel. They are essentially Zeta Gundam variants that all have a waverider mode. The Rezel Type C is especially awesome, definitely one of my favorite kits that I own.
5th gunpla. I'm still shit, but improving ever so slightly. I think I'm gonna pick up a MG ZZ tomorrow.
Got a bunch done today on this guy. Gutted the inside of the chest and sacrificed a GM to Plamor to give it some better shoulder articulation. I also split the front skirt and started on the seam welding. Next order of business is to add a ball joint to the waist and maybe ankle tilts to the feet.
Also could someone post a pic of the smallest hands that come with the Jigen Build Knuckles next to say the hands from a HGAW Wing or a Crossbone?
Better shot of the new shoulders, lots of pla plate and greenstuff in there.
if theres any left i am in need of a destiny or freedom in 1/144 scale
Here you go bud, currently working on a similar update to an old kit myself. Was suprised at just how tiny the wing hands are
>Panel washing with enamel thinner ended up badly.
>Climate in SEA makes lighter fluid dry up very fast and feels like I'm using a lot.
How are Tamiya washes? Do they use enamel thinner?
I am still kinda new and wanted to start detailing kits better, I'm gonna start small and detail weapons first, is it good or at least acceptable to just use gundam markers or should I actually get some paints?
I was thinking of taking the Rebake's shield and the GN-X lance and really making the Grimgerde look like a viking maiden. Some different shoulders would help too.
Too bad that finding the GN-X for under 30 dollars is like searching for the bones of Jesus.
Gundam markers are pretty much only good for detail work, but the problem is they're imprecise so you need to squeeze the paint out and paint it onto the parts with a fine brush. You COULD dab the marker on as light as you can, then scrape away the excess with a toothpick, which I've done, but it's a pain and paint directly from a marker just goes on too fucking thick.
Smearing metallic marker for things like heat hawk/blade edges works.
They introduced negative intrestrates recently to right? Which means bank account savings are discourged and that you should invest in bonds and the stock market for returns, but I thought this was a sign of weakness and that it would weaken the yen to help exports
Got a Jegan A2 earlier this week in the mail, too cold to topcoat but here are some photos in natural light
Yes, negative rates have never helped, and Japanese due to their culture hold onto their money rather than investing. The current rate of exchange should hold even as US markets dip.
>having to learn international economics in order to keep up on your plastic robutt toy hobby
I've started to use these, fills in great, still runs with TS-80 unless you're really careful. Though I bought a gray and black in Japan that seemed to have been on the shelf for too long, the gray was mostly stale in the bottom so I'm going to buy some new ones locally.
>Make me want to paint a pot leaf on the shield and go the the local pot store and buy four blunts so it can hold them in its hands.
I'll be blowback if someone actually does this
dont ever reply to me again you autistic fuck
That's an old picture. I only have my G-Reco kits up there now. I actually move my kits around quite often!
Maybe it's just me, but I feel your panel lining is a bit heavy. Not Dalong heavy, but still heavy. It works for some areas like the shoulders and the bottom of the legs, but the chest and the upper thighs are too strong IMO.
As for the shoulder vents,those are the seals, right?
shoulder vents were gundam marker applied with a small brush, the white needs a few more coats to be thicker desu
as for the panel lining it was my first time using the pour type panel lining so you're right it was applied too liberally
>tfw out of paint
>tfw you have to wait next month to finish your gunpla
This looks like a good thing to have. Can the stringy thing be replaced with a body scrub?
An attempt to take the old 1/144 Heavy-Arms Custom from 1998 and give it decent articulation. It's my first time doing a kitbash that isn't just gluing parts from kit B onto kit A, so I figured I'd use a cheap EW kit since they were getting reissued last month.
Those aren't gunpla. Why are you talking about non-gunpla in the gunpla thread?
You realize he gets paid to do those things right? Like 5 USD a word?
It's actually $5 per 10 words, but yeah. Tyrone's prices were better before he sold out. Rog was always better with $5 per 60 words.
If you're buying one at a time and want it within a week, Amazon's your best bet. If you're buying in bulk (Like 4-5 kits at a time) or are buying a single kit and don't care how long it takes to get to you, HLJ's for you.
>seam weld you guys said
Requesting op for awareness in next thread.
Funny I was just about to ask what was everyone's choice/brand of cement and why.
I also happen to have with me a bottle of Limonene Mr Cement with me that smells orange-y and has no health warning label on, only the flammable one.
Nearly everything causes cancer according to California. The danger with plastic cement fumes is that like lacquer fumes they kill brain cells. Just don't leave it sitting around with the cap off and open a window and you'll be fine if that's what you are worried about.
ANT is in britbong. His stuff doesn't get California health warning labels unless for some reason it comes from a US distributor.
And yes, generally because those two tend to make reliable products.
So, did you guys ever fix up your first gunpla you made? I leave them shitty to see how I've gotten better. Pic unrelated.
Holy shit. The torso is so fucking loose on the Gself
I leave them but I try to buy another of that same kit and do it justice. I use the old ones to experiment new techniques on. I once had this GM Type C that had holes drilled in it, seam welded legs and one arm, every body part a different color, shield covered in random waterslides, limbs replaced by other limbs. It was a monster. Then my mom threw it out.
That is a good motivation in a way. Pic is my purchase next month definitely.
You must have described 70% of the building community.
Lets face it, only a small amount of people actually go deeper into Gunpla building. Commoners don't put an incredible amount of efforts into kits. I believe snap builders to be a large part of Bandai's revenue while people who are amazing at building will buy 1 or 2 kits a year and spend a year customizing it.
It is the snap builders which are saving the community and industry.
Yeah. The G-Self is also the worst from the line.
I used to wonder if it was actually a person putting in the effort to post all of those or just a bot, but someone had to sit down, think up of a dumb names for all those images, and rename every single thing.
Anon, there are better things to do with your life.
Just wait. He will replug his router so he can keep shitposting. Let's contribute in the meantime!
stupid question incoming.
I had to take a few years off of the hobby for my business. Wanted to get back in by doing one of those fuckawesome conversions by AKO Hobby.
Website gone. Did they go away completely? Can't find a twitter, facebook page is inactive, no listings on ebay, aliexpress, etc.
I really wanted a goddamn GM Spartan and GM Sniper. Last I heard they were still doing stuff like the GM III conversion and that wasn't more than 2 years ago. Was that the last product and now they've evaporated or am I not looking in the right place?
This isn't gunpla, but where can I buy cute mecha girls? Preferably not figures.
Finished my GM Sniper II. Now I just need to get the rest of the 0080 kits.
>Literally resetting modem to shitpost.
You have issues, pal. It's no wonder you belong in
the hug-box on /toy/.
Another show with the visor down. I love how reflective the sensor is
The shitposter pretending to not be the shitposter
Not sure what you're talking about Bro, the only G-Reco kit I have is a Catsith
That private warehouse is really damn convenient.
And they let you essentially put a reserve on an item that can get restocked so you don't have to refresh the store page every month like a madman.
Did you miss my CCA posts? I got the Nu, H-Nu, Sazabi, Jagd Doga and the Jegan. I posted them like a hundred times.
Also me and Airbrush-Kun watched 0080 together. I've got the Alex coming in the mail.
Anyone like figurerise? I'm about halfway done with Wild Tiger and I already love it.
Lot of fuckin' stickers, though.
Went to a local Con with a plamo contest today. Picked up some interesting kits too.
Anyone interested in seeing the contest entries? There weren't a lot.
>tfw local ship actually restocks something that isnt fucking trains.
Okay. Here's the first of 900,000.
Word of warning, skill level was not very high for most of these.
I'm like 99% sure the gloss black on this was handbrushed as it was rough in spots.
Didn't get too good of a pic of this one. But at least it's fully painted.
She a brat who steals plamo parts and hides them if I leave them sitting out where she can get to them.
For some reason this guy chose gloss as his final topcoat despite weathering it.
Not sure if this was an entry or not as there was no entry stub for it on the table. That and the front is held on with tape.
This entry was actually pretty good. According to the entry stub the builder is 70 years old. Hope I see him at the winner announcements tomorrow. I would love to chat him up.
Just two more pics left. Which are my entries.
This guy is actually a bit sloppier than he looks in the pic. I missed some areas when I cleaned up the panel wash that you can't see from this angle and I didn't bother fully seam welding the arms or all the joints as I was running out of time.
And I know it's a bit blurry, the site thinks the good image has "possible malicious code".
And the gm was mostly just to test out some new materials and practice with my new airbrush stuff.
This was the main entry, the tank I posted the other day. The Yukari fell over at some point.
And those were the entries. Not a very big contest.
Make sure to have paint ready for the Hardygun. When done right it's a beautiful model, Gerbil has one and it's great looking. If you don't paint save it until you can, for your own benefit.