Hey /k/! After tons and tons of research I've decided to get myself a Remington 700 SPS Varmint in .308 as a first rifle. Im gonna use it to target shoot out on BLM land, between 100-500 yards for starters, probably. The rifle itself is gonna be about $700. I have about $1500 to burn. Questions...
>what kinda scope and scope rings should I get for it? I want something with mil-dots, I think. I don't like duplex.
>how can I get into reloading/making my own handloads? How much does this cost to get started?
>is .308 a decent hunting round?
>later on, I want an AR-10. Do proper loads for the AR-10 differ from loads for the Rem 700?
Remington isn't that bad anon, plenty of aftermarket, plenty of expertise working on them because of the design's age too.
In fact, if you look at videos from something like the American gunsmithing institute, a Remington 700 is likely one of the rifles they demonstrate accurizing.
Unless I'm mistaken, there is a rectangular recoil lug attached to the receiver on bolt action rifles like that, and that lug needs to be set in the stock stiffly.
To my knowledge keeping the stock from even touching the barrel is a critical element to accurizing. This is called "free floating" or a "free floated" barrel.
If I'm wrong then they're molding the stock to the barrel presumably, perhaps it stiffens it up more. A stiff barrel that won't flex during the shot will be more accurate.
I think I have the perfect video series for you.
I hope you're in the mood to LEARN.
Notice how so few of these people have suggested something better?
They don't really know what they're talking about is my guess.
I think the guy in the SNIPER series has a Rem 700 btw.
well OP, according to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lYKFz5LaRU
glass bedding is for the action, so not just the recoil lug is holding the action + barrel in place.
The stock shouldn't touch the barrel, still.
We poorfags have it hard when it comes to weaponry.
I'm buying my first 22LR rifle, I'm puzzled between:
* Savage Mark II (F or G?)
* Mossberg 802 Plinkster
If you want to use 5.56x45 you could use an AR-15 for that distance.
3/4" MOA or less out of the box, AR-15s are fucking fantastic OP
mine has one, it's like having a 2 stage trigger in which the first stage is extra loose. it's pleasant to have, especially because you can do some mod to adjust the actual trigger sensitivity.
overall the trigger is pretty nice as far as .22s go
Especially stay away from their "Thunderbolt" .22's
Op here. I was looking at the Tikka T3 but was told it doesn't have as much aftermarket support and it's more expensive. Since I'm new to long range shooting, I'd like to go with the more common, more easily upgradeable option, i.e. buying the Honda before I get the Ferrari and working my way up. I'm glad you guys told me about the quality control issues and showed me some examples. Unfortunately, I live in California, and it's either impossible or a paperwork nightmare to buy shit online, so I'm pretty much limited to what they've got at the local Bass Pro.
Not my preferred brand, especially with some rust issues on the 870s and the trigger recalls they've had. That being said, assuming you don't get a lemon, it will go bang more accurately than you will likely shoot. Plenty of rednecks around here take deer with them every year. And yes, Remington still has the strongest aftermarket of any bolt action I'm aware of.
For optics, expect to spend about the same as on the rifle. If you're really planning on precision shooting out to 200-500y, I'd recommend something like a 6-18 or 6-25. Past that is beyond what my skill level, but you'd likely require a 20moa base mount for your optic, considering a .308 round drops well over 50" past 500 yards.
For reloading, get something like a Hornady or RCBS kit to start out with if you don't want to look further into it. It will come with a reloading manual that should explain the basics. This is a subject unto itself, so check out the periodic reloading threads here.
.308 takes all CXP-2 game in the U.S., plus Elk. It also has some of the best bullet selection available for shooting under 500y. Over that, and you probably want to look into smaller, flatter, higher velocity rounds like the 6.5 Creedmore, .270, or 7mm-08.
Your AR-10 will shoot most loads your .308 Rem will. Not sure about the upper end heavy loads though. Their OAL is most likely to long to function in a magazine.
>freedom group QC freefall
>safety being unsafe debacle
>$700 gun needs to have work done to be on par with lesser costing bolt guns out of the box
>after tons and tons of research
OP, reading and watching testimonials and forums for an hour isn't "tons and tons" of research.
Get a new stock. Get a new trigger.
Might as well just get a 700 5R, or 700p if you want a decent 700 and your total budget is 1500. That leaves about 5-600 for optics and mounts, and you can get a DNZ mount that has integrated rings for about 50-80$, and an SWFA for 300 that has the reticle you desire, and is not shit like most optics in that range.
>what kinda scope?
Highly recommend a Vortex Viper HS-T. That'll run you about $500, it's FFP, and available in mildot reticle with 1/10mil turrets.
>how can I get into reloading?
Buy a press, dies, scale, calipers, powder dropper/trickler, case trimmer, debur/chamfer tool, and components. Single-stage is fine for accuracy loads.
>how much does reloading cost to get started?
Good dies for accuracy loads, good scale, not-shit press, and a good case trimmer will be a minimum $400. Then you're looking at components on top of that.
>is .308 a decent hunting round?
With the right load it can do everything from antelope to moose/grizzly.
>AR10 loads differ from boltgun loads?
In theory no. In practice, most people use a firmer crimp on the case. Most of your "accuracy" dies will do a taper crimp, which is only semi-adjustable. In some rifles this is insufficient and you experience bullet setback. However, a factory-crimp die is like $12 and can be done after-the-fact on ammo.
>what is bedding?
An epoxy-like filler that takes all the play out of the contact between the action and stock, improving consistency. There are two methods: Full bedding, and pillar bedding. Full is easiest to do, pillar gives a slight advantage in consistency because it reduces contact between the action and stock to 3 places (front action screw, rear action screw, and recoil lug).
>other ways to accurize a 700
The only one the average owner can do himself without access to a lathe is ensuring the stock never touches the barrel, which is called freefloating. Most factory composite stocks are bendy as shit and require some relieving to make sure they don't touch the barrel when shooting off a bipod. This can be done with a dowel rod roughly the diameter of your barrel and some sandpaper, or there are specialized scrapers for it.
>can I shoot real fuckin' NATO from .308
Yes, but the headspace might be a little tight leading to difficulty closing the bolt. It's safe though.
You could save up a little longer and get a solid Armalite AR-10A. Three to look out for near your budget: their Target, VSR, or 3-Gun. Go for an A-series since they'll work with DPMS & Magpul magazines. Those three models are good solid setups that you can grow on.
As for proper loads, note that AR-10's are limited in cartridge length so the top accuracy loads (with long and ballistically stable bullets) may be too long for your AR-10.
After you've got the rifle, it'll be time to start on scopes. I'd recommend you look at SWFA's SS 10X and a pair of medium or high height rings for about $400 together. The Armalites come with a decent 2-stage trigger that's adjustable for pull weight. Otherwise, you're pretty well set and will have a good selection of magazines from 5 rounds to 25+ rounds.
>same bullet diameter as .243
>shorter brass with lower case capacity to .243
sure is a needle on top of a ballistic missile huh there, it's not like a fucking 70 year old caliber that's been killing things while being noted for its mild recoil exists or anything.
Something else to note: If you get a 700p it will come with an HSprecision fiberglass stock with an aluminum block that will eliminate the need for glass bedding. It will also come with a 40x trigger that is vastly superior to the stock Rem trigger, and the newer models come with 5R barrels as well, which i another improvement compared to their stock barrels. You'll have about 100$ to spend on a Harris bipod or anything else you want.
>Primary arms ffp mildot scope
>glass bedding is removing your action, and filling in the loose spots of your stock with a resin that hardens to provide a tighter fit of your action, raising consistency.
>.308 is fine
>yes, you can fire 7.62x51 with a firearm chambered in .308. Just not the otherway around.
>reloading cost depends on how accurate and convenient you want to go, and what kind of cases.. milsurp requires another tool to swage the primer pocket.
You can buy a lee press and die set, a case trimmer, brass tumbler, and a scale and call it good. Buying extra stuff like flash hole tools, etc are going to drive your costs up.
If you want to really get that to be precision, you want to true your action and bolt, and get a stock you like. The barrels are decent. Expect right now a 1moa gun depending on your loads which is fine for 500 yards and deer.
Most importantly - get gud. Learn your windage, learn your drop. Invest in a chrono and download a ballistics app. You will learn alot in relatively little time.
Also, yes. Ar10 loads can and will differ.
Ar10 being semi auto requires full length resizing for reliable feeding. Where with a bolt gun you can fireform and neck size only for better accuracy.