Hey guys, I'm pretty new to ARs, but I've decided to do a build starting with an 80% lower. If I purchased one, could I just take it to my local gunsmith and have him finish the milling and drilling? I heard they passed some legislation on this recently, but I'm pretty fuzzy on the details. Also how much would this cost?
>If I purchased one, could I just take it to my local gunsmith and have him finish the milling and drilling?
any gunsmith you ask will say fuck no unless they are the shady sort
drillpress+ jig, router +jig, freehand dremel
seriously op just buy a completed lower unless you cant for some reason
I can answer any questions until 3AM est.
Pic related is this lower with its upper. It works flawlessly and has not had a single malfunction yet.
you fucked up multiple times and really shouldnt be teaching people unless its a what not to do
I'm 18, and the fascists at the atf say I need to be 21 to buy one from an ffl because it can be technically made into a handgun. So unless I can buy one in a private sale, I have to wait almost 3 years
Yet I explained all my errors, and how to avoid and correct them. You know what they say, you learn from mistakes. Speaking of which, where did you find these pics you are posting? Was it ever test fired?
I appreciate the offer, but I lack the technical skills to do it myself so it would probably end up like some of the pictures in this thread. I may just try to buy a stripped lower in a private sale
all of these are saved from /k/ fucks knows if they work or not
this one was so close and yet so far probably functional
Honestly, I would still consider an 80%, it really isnt that hard these pics are making it seem more difficult than it is
>I am struggling to think of how someone could fuck them up this bad
Holy fuck, that is some mean Dremel time.
nothings stopping you from buying one dissembling it and reassembling it
there you go you just did what most ar builders do
if you hate the parts it comes with you could sell the upper and buy what you want
even if you lost 100 bucks selling parts it would cost less than building an 80
its not cheap to build an 80
I don't see how its expensive... Mine ended up at 500, but that's including some of the tools. To finish it, assuming you sell your endmill, jig, armorers wrench, etc; it would probably end up around 350-400, which is what complete lowers cost. But to be fair to your point, it is much more work, has a risk of being ruined, and will almost certainly be less refined than a professionally finished lower.
the key factor is most of them said fuck spending money on a jig
$500 vs http://palmettostatearmory.com/catalog/product/view/id/15072/
this doesnt help op cause hes not 21 but proves my point
Calinon here for the first time. Have a question about 80%'s, saw this thread, figured I would ask here. I can just have a 80% shipped to my house right?
This router is fine right? http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RP250-10-Amp-Variable/dp/B000IEFIBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451962387&sr=8-1&keywords=router+hardware
It will work with these jig guides right? http://www.80percentarms.com/collections/lower-jigs/products/80-ar-15-easy-jig
If anyone has recommendations/corrections I would love to hear them. Otherwise, tyvm /k/
>buy a block of lexane
>mill it with a dremmel to m-16 specs
>insert m-16 parts kit
bonus points for rigging blue LED lights into that shit with an LED controller in the handle which flashes to the beat of your 5.56. warning, may cause seizures and loss of dog to ATF.
watch a shitload of youtube videos before doing anything
measure multiple times before you cut
Well you can buy that under 21.. but to your point, 180, then depending on area, between 15-150 for ffl transfer. You are also using lesser components. In order to compare to the completed lower I posted, you need one with CTR and MOE+ grip. PSA had one a while back that sold for $210 that fit the bill (although it wasnt a blem so its not really a fair match).
Finally, PSA as we know is an outlier. They are still trying to build a reputation and are selling at minuscule margins. By all means, buy as much as you can from them while its cheap, they make great quality stuff; but I was really referring to MOST complete lower manufacturers.
Hell even Delton is $195 with a standard M4 stock.
>This router is fine right?
No. Go on craigslist, buy a used one for ~the same price and you will have a vastly superior tool.
As for the jig, yes. The router method is the best DIY assuming you dont already own a milling machine.
They are more expensive than the off brand grip and MOE stock on the one you linked.
>then 100 bucks for magpul
Exactly. 300 for the lower, not counting shipping +ffl transfer. Before its all said and done it will hit 350, and that's for a blem PSA.
My original statement:
>end up around 350-400
Yeah spend your time. I took about 2 months to fully understand what the process was before I began putting together a real, no bullshit parts list, and probably only began machining at 3 months.
paying slightly more for an inferior product
congrats you didnt have to go through a ffl and have no cereal numbers or quality control
jig also holds the receiver in a vise, and I do have a mill with dro, so I'm not concerned about measuring I just don't know how much further to mill out the FCG pocket to accommodate a DIAS for when I finally buy one.
I'm all ears if you have a better way to put a lower in a vise that won't scratch it, and if you have some dimensions for low shelf lowers.
>You are your own quality control, you're not building fucking ICs here
This. I had a fucking vernier caliper in the first picture of the series I posted, and used it to check wall thickness, and pocket depth.
low shelf still doesnt help you if you want it pre done except hole 3 you take out way more than any jig will show
at that point it doesnt matter how much additional material you removed as long as you didnt go through the side or bottom
>you take out way more than any jig will show
figures... So I'm on my own when determining to stop at the depth at the point the DIAS would sit on the shelf.
I've looked around and I can't find any decent looking dimensions to help me either. Not to mention the jig itself to hold the 80 is something I'd have to buy or make from scratch.
god damn, I haven't had this much disappointment when I was trying to do my own semi auto sten bolt design.
>So I'm on my own when determining to stop at the depth at the point the DIAS would sit on the shelf.
Speaking as someone who completed an 80% with a drill press, that doesn't sound like a difficult thing to do at all.
I thought DIASs used the regular high shelf anyways.
>I thought DIASs used the regular high shelf anyways.
maybe a lighting link, but a true DIAS needs a low shelf, and you're right. I've been looking around and I think it'd be very simple to make one fit if I got it just right and took my time taking very few passes until I got the correct depth for it to sit flush.
I also found some simple plans for a jig.
Cosmetic. You can finish it with alumahyde, cerakote, etc, but totally unnecessary. Aluminum forms a layer of Aluminum Oxide almost immediately and will not continue to corrode further unless you make it (ie, what anodizing is)
Quality of the hardware, prep work.
Get a consumer end drill press, put four holes through in a square, say, 4" between each homes center point. Flip it over. Marvel at how wildly different the exit holes are. Spend the next few hours adjusting the press......
Shop class had lots of quality, if beaten up, hardware. There was also a ton of prep work, most of which students ignore, or forget about the second they leave the shop. Your teacher forced you to do all the necessary prep, so things just went smoothly. On your own, you forget to do some of it, do some wrong, or just don't know what to do/expect.
Drunk is no excuse. I've seen a drunk Dutchman "slap together" a set of stairs while filling a full size garbage can with his empty beer cans. They were perfectly regular, level and very solid. Not the slightest burr, overcut, or gouging.