What is your advice for choosing a reloading kit/set up? What are your favorites? I'm going to buy a kit and start reloading soon and I just want some opinions and advice on choosing the right starting point.
Mostly 9mm, .45, 5.56, 12 ga, and eventually .308
It's not that I want something cheap, I just don't want to spend too much either.
I'd like something of decent quality that falls in the middle for now. I have never done any reloading and don't want to dump all of my eggs into one basket too quickly. Maybe I am wrong in thinking this way, but I'd like a quality beginner set up that I can build off of and upgrade as needed.
I would suggest only reloading for things that are worth it. If you're just doing 9/45/223/12g I wouldn't bother unless you cast your own bullets. If you start doing 300blk/308/6.5CM/7mmRM then it can become worth it and your loads actually matter.
Only thing I know about reloading 12g is that it requires a different press than pistol/centerfire
That's what I'm looking at right now. I'm about to send my 1911 into my smith to have some custom work done and when I get it back I really want to start loading my own .45 and 5.56. 9mm and .308 will just be an added bonus. Also maybe some .38 special and .45 colt if I end up buying a conversion cylinder for my 1860 Army.
Just gutting my Springfield Mil-Spec and replacing all of the internals with Wilson Combat parts including a trigger job, a S&A beavertail, having the slide cut for WC sights, and a few Ed Brown bar stock parts.
I'm probably going to leave the Ti firing pin and spring alone and just have them polish the feed ramp and throat rather than putting in a new barrel and bushing though I do have another bushing I can have them fit.
honestly, a single stage is the perfect starter press type. Even when you move on to high volume progressive loading, a single stage is still very handy for load development, small batch, extremely consistent loading, and other tasks (like deprime only).
I personally see no benefit to a turret aside from not having to change the dies out constantly compared to a single, but you're still 1 pull 1 action and batch loading has the potential to be faster even. You don't even need progressive unless you know you're going to shoot high volume. Less things to worry about for a new loader on a single stage as well.
can't go wrong with a rockchuker. RCBS always has a rebate going as well. Only thing I hate about the rockchucker is the depriming chute, which you can DIY fix or get a 3d printed chute that fixes the issues. The rockchucker has an attachment for 12ga brass loading, but plastic you have to get a separate press.
>I'm going to buy a kit and start reloading soon
Step #1: buy this book;
I have this same kit, I use it to reload 9mm, 38spc and 223 rem. I don't like the handprimer, i find it hurts my hands, priming on the press is much easier for me. The press is good overall, the scale can be a bit shitty to set up, but once you understand it, it works pretty good. The only thing this kit needs is a bullet pulling hammer. I bolted everything to a piece of timber and use g-clamps to clamp it to my desk.
primers fly out of the chute occasionally.
The fix is to put a straw in the chute, cut it in a specific way to fix it, or to just get a new aftermarket chute.
It's really not that big of a deal, just annoying.
If you have time, both wouldn't hurt.
First pass, get the rough grit/sand/shit off so it won't jam during resizing.
Resize, then clean primer pockets.
Second pass is polishing. If you don't want to polish or are reloading for purely economic reasons, skip it.
After that you can prime and carry on.
Depends... I usually just walnut tumble pistol brass before sizing and depriming in one step. For rifle brass, I use a universal decapping die, SS pin wet tumble, lube, size, trim, chamfer and deburr. Getting walnut out of the flash holes is a pain...
I use a Lee turret because I generally make 20-40 rd. batches and change cartridge types often. Have a different turret for each cartridge and just drop in the one I want.
I don't use the automatic feature where it spins the turret (removed the shaft), I just do it as an assembly line. Saves a lot of time for me, because my setup is on a collapsible workbench and it easily breaks down.
In the future I might invest in a real progressive press, but I'm making target loads at the moment, not cheap bulk ammo.
get a Lee Loadmaster if you want a cheap progressive press for starters
get a Dillon XL650 if you want a quality progressive press
get a Dillon XL1050 if you want a semiprofessional progressive press
Yeah, I'll throw loaded stuff back in the tumbler to give it a final clean up. Chrono data made no difference. Toss in used cut up dryer sheets and the media will stay clean longer.
If you pull the cartridges from the tumbler soon after shutting it off, they're less likely to stick around. In order to further keep them from sticking and to catch little bits of dust and dirt, I put small (~2") squares of dryer sheet in. Yes, I'm still using polishing compound, but it's only about a tablespoon per load. The media always slides right off of my brass.
Is this supposed to be an example of how not to have your shit set up?
>multiple bottles of different powders on the bench
You'll put your eye out!
Damnit kiddo, get that powder stored somewhere safer.
Only one bottle on the bench--the bottle you are using.
You're describing a progressive press. A turret is literally one pull one action at a time. Tehy are convenient only for holding dies setup on the head. Kind of useless now there are quick change bushings on the market.
>i want to spend more money on something just because it costs more money
the hornady or rcbs kits are the best place to start if you don't want to spend a ton to get set up. for reloading pistol there is never any reason ever to ever use anything other than carbide dies. they make life way easier. they cost more but they are worth it. sucking dick to pay for the carbide pistol dies would suck less dick than lubing and cleaning every single fucking pistol case. Also, for rifle dies, Hornady is where it's at. the only thing from lee that i really like are those case trimmer things. you would need to buy 10 of them to pay for a regular case trimmer and they work way better.
just did the math, I have saved roughly $150+ just reloading .45. throw in all the match grade 223 and top shelf 30-06 i have made and the savings add up pretty quick. 45 and 223 are definitely worth reloading for.
What are you? Retarded? If you're too stupid to use the wrong powder off of your bench with other powder around, you have no business reloading.
Pic is of my current rig. A dillon 550b and a shotty reloader. The 550 is set up to load my version of mk262 out of my Noveske SPR which I get better results with than the Black Hills stuff. I was surprised too.
No, the dude has a valid point.
You don't keep various powders out on the bench. That's a well known safety rule among experienced reloaders. You keep ONE powder out while using it... once done... excess powder goes back in... and it goes back to storage. Keeping a bunch of powders all over your bench increases the risk of mix ups.... and it's not about being retarded. Mistakes happen. That's why intelligent people put safeguards in place.
Your two options are either:
1. Spend less on a quality single stage press that does highly accurate loads, but slow as fuck
2. Spend more on a quality progressive that allows you to quickly crank out several hundred rounds at a time of slightly less consistent ammo (that will still be fine for plinking, hunting, and some competition)
It depends on what kind of shooting you do, if you go for precision rifle shooting get a single stage to start, if you shoot a lot of pistol or plink at 20-50 yards with your rifle get a multi stage, the single stage will not be worth your time
Anyone else here magnetic restoration balance?
>I personally see no benefit to a turret aside from not having to change the dies out constantly compared to a single
Forester Co-Ax fixes this. Hornady also sells QD die bushings.
After depriming, before resizing. All the shit on the cases will wear sizing die. Also why would you ever clean them before depriming? The primer pockets get dirty as fuck.
>Not using stainless steel pins to clean your brass
>2. Spend more on a quality progressive that allows you to quickly crank out several hundred rounds at a time of slightly less consistent ammo (that will still be fine for plinking, hunting, and some competition)
You're leaving out an important part, that you wont be able to use all powders with a progressive system - assuming you've got a powder measure mounted to it too. Some powders like IMR-800X (used in nuclear 10mm loads) are notoriously difficult to meter, and you'll just be asking for a kaboom if you dont weigh the charges.
I want a cheap single stage that's slow. Newgunz, I want to try pressing stuff like 54R or 9mm for giggles.
Would this be a good choice?
Dont cheap out on a press
Was trying to resize .308 cases and this happened
oh my fucking god
You didn't blow your face off, did you?
Or are you posting this with unrecognizable lumps of flesh you call hands now.
Dude, just get the Lee set in your pic
Get a reloading book. Make sure you have a good, solid work bench to mount your press to, and make sure to mount your press at all the anchor points. Lee doesn't provide bolts, nuts, or washers for mounting your press, so you'll have to go to home depot.
You also need a brass cleaner and some media. Get a caliper as well.
FOLLOW THE POWDER GUIDELINES IN YOUR RELOADING MANUAL, TAKE COPIOUS NOTES, DO ROUND DEVELOPMENT!!!!!
Is there a huge difference between the 550 and 650 Dillion presses? The only thing I see different that might be useful is the powder check, but couldn't I just weigh the cartridge to find out how much powder there is? Is that little extra worth the price difference
How the fuck are you going to reload when the power's out and Deathclaws are wandering around in your neighborhood? Don't be a fucking pussy. Not everyone can afford to utilize a well lit room for reloading, especially if you live with a woman.
the 650 is a progressive press
the 550 is a turret press
look man you can get 2.5 Lee Loadmaster presses for the price of a 650
I got the Lee, and have a second one now
it's inferior to the 650 but for the price i don't care
It's not that I don't have money, it's just that I don't want to spend a lot just to "play with".
The Lee loaders mentioned by >>28440133 seem very appealing to learn the basics. Do I need a scale on top of such kits?
Just get a Lee
You want to start out small and then work up to other shit if the need arises.
Those Dillos presses measure powder and do a whole bunch of other shit all at once, so you'd basically be doing less steps, HOWEVER you aren't going to be knowing what you're doing at first, and it'll be better if everything is simple, and right in front of you.
It's like starting with tee ball and then working up to fast pitch.
I mean, you're not going to be making a thousand rounds for an F class shooting competition are you? No. You're going to make rounds for fucking shit up at the local gun range. Then you'll want to make goofy 12 ga rounds with rock salt, or buckshot/bird shot combos.
Don't buy a tool without a need. Get a need and buy a tool.
The lee loader comes with dippers that measures in volume, not weight. OK in a pinch, not something one would use for precision loading. It is actually pretty fast though.
If you want precision or just want to be on the safe side, a scale is a good idea. a cheap digital is like 15 bucks. Bought mine of amazon and I double check it every time before using.
>Just get a Lee
Literally the nugget of the reloading world, except they wont last 100 years or survive general use. Basically if you're too poor and stupid to be able to save up a few more weeks or months to get something that wont break if you look at it funny, buy a Lee.
>volumetric measures are accurate enough not cause a kaboom
Someone has obviously never worked with flake powder.
Hey, ass hole, not everyone has the cash to spend on a nice press. There are Lee presses that aren't made out of thin aluminum. Mine is made out of cast steel. I've broken two workbenches with it!
I don't know what your bad experience with Lee was, but it is not shared by me.
I've reloaded several thousand high quality rounds that get me sub .25 moa at 100 yds with Lee presses. Neither of the two are in disrepair, and are still being used frequently.
Anyway, if Lee's are such junk then what would be a comparably priced alternative?
I've used the dippers for blue dot 9mm load once. I don't recall the exact variances, but it was safe enough for me to load.
I measured every single load and loaded 100 rounds, all of which shot with no issues. I've not used the dipper for 9mm since, but in my experience it was fine.
I also want to point out that the lee image you just posted pretty much shows the issue as to why it broke. The guy was resizing/depriming a 30-06 that got stuck. He was using a lee reloader, and aluminum c press, so no shit that would break with force.
Thats the kits I use, but I also bought a Lyman Digital scale since the mechanical scales are kind of annoying to use. It works well enough and have been using it for 4 years. The powder measure is pretty decent, but h110 is almost too fine for it.
>not everyone has the cash to spend on a nice press.
which is why I said:
>Basically if you're too poor and stupid to be able to save up a few more weeks or months to get something that wont break if you look at it funny, buy a Lee.
>I don't know what your bad experience with Lee was, but it is not shared by me.
I never had a Lee, I just shit talk them to save others the aggravation. I'm the Foresterfag; also posted the Entris64 earlier in the thread.
>I've reloaded several thousand high quality rounds that get me sub .25 moa at 100 yds with Lee presses
So wait, you're too poor to afford a press that costs more than $50, and are recommending people use dippers to charge cases, but you have a bolt that can magically do .25 MOA with your shitty reloads? This sounds like a legit story.
>at 100 yds
You clearly dont understand how MOA works if you're stating ranges, which makes me question why you're speaking as if you're an authority on anything.
>so no shit that would break with force.
Funny because i've cut 308 cases in half and necked them down to 40 cal without annealing and I didnt break my Forester
>Lyman Digital scale
A piece of shit, I had a 1500XP that would drift several grains over a few minutes.
Whenever I move into a new place and am able to actually have a shop area, i think I'll look into reloading - at least for .357 and 8mm since those are the pricier rounds that I ahve. I don't see much point in reloading 9mm, 5.56, and 7.62x39 because they're cheap and plentiful, and the amount I'd go through would make reloading take too long anyway.
>Funny because i've cut 308 cases in half and necked them down to 40 cal without annealing and I didnt break my Forester
And that means what exactly? The Co-ax is a iron cast press that is 10 times the price of the lee reloader and is meant for handling heavier duty tasks.
And it's "Forster"
>You clearly dont understand how MOA works if you're stating ranges
You're such a retard.
A rifle may be sub MOA at 100 yards, but it may not be past a certain distance. A MOA is an angle and bullet trajectories aren't straight lines. Once they curve, the shooter, ammo, and atmospheric conditions will become so important the "MOA" value of the rifle becomes a lot less relevant.
Anyone who claims a MOA value at ranges like 600 meters is either lying or autistic.
>And that means what exactly?
Its not a piece of shit that breaks if you do silly things with it.
>A MOA is an angle and bullet trajectories aren't straight lines.
Thank you for repeating what I said, here is your (You)
>Anyone who claims a MOA value at ranges like 600 meters is either lying or autistic.
Thank you for contradicting yourself and proving how little you understand about what you're saying.
Question for reloaders...
Let's say you've just trimmed your cases to the same length.
What case prep do you do to the neck afterwards? I see a lot of people that use various tools to chamfer and deburr. The ones I've tried have been a PITA, especially the ones with separate tools for the outside edge and inside edge.
Personally I have been using picture related chucked up in an electric drill, against a little bit of steel wool. For me it is a lot less work than using hand tools.
So being a retard and breaking a product by misusing it means it's shit. OK, makes perfect sense. Thank you for your sound advise.
And storing powder in a steel container is such a wonderful, and very safe, idea.
Different guy but I thought stating ranges was valid when talking about moa/accuracy. I don't imagine a gun you can shoot moa with at 100 yds will shoot that once the bullet goes subsonic/destabalizes. Unless were playing highschool physics and assuming everything takes place in a frictionless vacuum setting parameters is valid
its a huge difference 50% increase I would say, it all depends on how much you are planning to reload. small amounts it would not be a big deal but I reload several thousand in a go so it is a must imo
But anon, that powder is clearly still in the factory packaging, which is not made of steel.
Why would you make a remark about powder in a steel container if it's not?
>being a retard
Say n'more, say n'more.
>If you put powder in a steel case it will explode
>You've seen all those videos of Russian ammo going off by it self havent you?
I have a set of Lyman hand tools, some day i'll probably get around to buying one of those case prep centers.
>Different guy but I thought stating ranges was valid when talking about moa/accuracy.
It shouldn't be. MOA is in effect a cone that gets progressively bigger the further from the muzzle, the value should be the same at any range. Now if you're specifying inches (or millimeters) then yes you need to include the range.
Its generally assumed that you're using an appropriate cartridge for the range you're shooting at so this doesnt happen, unless you're extremely autistic.
You're the one not understanding what I'm saying.
It's important to state at what range your MOA measurement was done because past a certain distance, it doesn't mean shit.
Hence saying it was done at 100m makes sense.
Saying "HURR DURR, A MOA IS A MOA, NO NEED FOR THE RANGE, YOU DON'T GET HOW MOAs WORK" is retarded.
>Hence saying it was done at 100m makes sense.
You can't even get your lies straight:
>I've reloaded several thousand high quality rounds that get me sub .25 moa at 100 yds with Lee presses.
>MOA is in effect a cone that gets progressively bigger the further from the muzzle, the value should be the same at any range.
Jesus Christ, we're shooting bullets, not lasers.
Do you really thing your sub-MOA rifle will still be sub-MOA at 1000 yards, even when rested?
Hey, retard here.
Can you reload shotshells without these fancy tools?
I mean sure, you need to crimp the top but other than that it seems doable by hand?
Just watch me be totally wrong though.
>You clearly dont understand how MOA works if you're stating ranges, which makes me question why you're speaking as if you're an authority on anything.
But, that is perfectly valid. If you knew how it worked, you probably wouldn't have stated that. It's like saying I drove 100mph on the highway vs 100mph on a gravel road. Neither surfaces have anything to do with the MPH measurement, but is very much meaningful information to the situation.
Shooting 1MOA at 100 yards, 1MOA at 1000 yards, are two totally different things.
The more you know, newb!
DOT approve powder container magazines are wood with at least an inch of thickness for a reason. Sure, the guidelines are for transportation, but their reasoning holds true regardless. Powder going off on their own is unlikely, sure, so don't give a shit if you don't want to.
>DOT approve powder container magazines are wood with at least an inch of thickness for a reason
It would be a ATF type 4 magazine. And they specify wood for fire resistance. Thats the firefighters problem, not mine.
>I wish I knew there was a difference between a meter and a yard
>I wish I could keep my lies straight
And it looks like a metal box is just fine by the ATF too.
Go watch jewtube if you want to find ways to fuck up your shotgun.
>Stop embarrassing yourself
>By citing facts and providing references
That the whole 100 yard vs 1000 yard thing doesnt matter when it comes to MOA. I posted a vid of a gun which is guarenteed to do 3/8 MOA at 1k yards.
There is no wood lining requirement for a type 4 magazine it clearly says
>Masonry, metal-covered wood, fabricated metal, or combination.
Also see NFPA 495 11-3.7 (which any local codes would be based off of) which says there is no requirement for storage beyond the manufacturer's container in private residences when the total amount of powder stored there is 20lbs or less.
Type 4 magazine also wouldn't apply in this discussion since it's not "portable magazine" like how the ammo box in the original image is.
And i never even implied that it was illegal to store it that way, just that it wasn't a good idea in terms of safety. especially in ammo cans that are usually sealed (though the seal probably would melt before any pressure builds up)
>That the whole 100 yard vs 1000 yard thing doesnt matter when it comes to MOA. I posted a vid of a gun which is guarenteed to do 3/8 MOA at 1k yards.
You apparently fail at reading comprehension. It does fucking matter. Yeah in the video they conveniently picked a day that had absolutely NO wind. In the place that I live... there might be 5 days in an entire year where conditions are like that.
If you think wind doesn't open up groups the further out you go, then you clearly do not fucking understand anything about precision shooting.
Including the range a group was shot, is pertinent information. Now shut your ill-informed trap you scrub.
Type 4 magazines have no requirement to be portable or fixed
> just that it wasn't a good idea in terms of safety
Which is why the government requires you to store them in containers?
>inb4 smokeless powder acts as an explosive rather than a flammable solid when confined
>I can't read wind
>And i'm going to continue to pretend my shitty bolt gun and even shittier reloads can manage 0.25 MOA.
Stay rekt anon.
>555.210 Construction of type 4 magazines.
>A type 4 magazine is a building, igloo or “Army-type structure”, tunnel, dugout, box, trailer, or a semitrailer or other mobile magazine.
>or other mobile magazine
>>I can't read wind
>>And i'm going to continue to pretend my shitty bolt gun and even shittier reloads can manage 0.25 MOA.
>Stay rekt anon.
Uh... no. I'm not that guy. I was just stepping in to correct your ignorance.
You've got the right idea. On a small scale, reloading offers one the opportunity to shoot the less common cartridges, and even those you can't buy factory. Firearms you wouldn't buy before because of ammo availability are now within reach.
It usually helps to state that you're not that anon when interjecting newfag, but still
>I cant read wind
>guns can't shoot 3/8 MOA
>there is no wind in open fields
>you can only state MOA values when you shot your gun in a F5 tornado
Reading wind is a misnomer. You're not reading anything. You're looking at things like flags, instruments, etc... and guestimating how much the wind will affect your shot. The problem is, wind is variable. It fluctuates, sometimes quite drastically and without warning. Even the best long range shooters are slapped around like a silly bitch by mother nature sometimes.
There are days where the air is completely calm. If you look at that video you posted toward the end, he's in crop and the leaves are DEAD still. Making 3/8 MOA at 1000 yards with virtually no wind, and making 3/8 MOA at 1000 with 10-20mph gusts..... you're dreaming if you think it's all the same. At 100 yards wind is much less of a factor, and hence, even more reason to state the distance.
You said some stupid shit and you got proven wrong. Now run along.