I know a fair bit about reloading. Lets get some novice people into loading. Any questions?
The designation implies it's a firing port weapon, so rather than having a shit ton of magazines, you have a shit ton of clips and just reload the same magazine repeatedly instead of just dropping them.
Cheapest would be a flea-market cast iron pot or Dutch oven plus a long metal spoon bent into a ladle plus a propane turkey fryer burner plus Lee mold and handles. Total would be around $100 with most of it being the mold.
A sizing die is not always necessary. It is better to be oversized than undersized, and cast bullets squeezebore very well. I routinely shoot .313 bullets through .308 bores with no issue and I don't size for that particular mold. However, not all molds cast perfectly round and it is a good idea to size.
Some form of lube is necessary. As far as ease of use and amount of mess goes, dry-tumble PC>tumble lube with 45/45/10>tumble lube with Alox>paste lube.
Powdercoating also allows you to use smaller bullets without leading, down to .001" over bore diameter.
Greentext for brevity.
So, you wanna cast your own bullets?:
>So, you wanna cast your own bullets?
>What are you, a fucking cheap ass jew?
>You do know you can find pre cast and pre coated lead bullets for ~8 cents a shot, right?
>But muh jewness / muh freedoms.
>God-damnit, okay, we'll teach you how to cast fucking bullets.
>How cheap are we trying to do this?
>Ugh, go buy some cast iron pot from a yard sale.
>Don't be a cheap jew, go find a casting pot fucking where.
>Go buy a fucking mold. Make sure it's steal. Make sure it's more then 2 fucking cavities. Don't be a pussy, it's not heavy.
>Let that shit heat up. Make the lead melt.
>Skim out the shit floating on top. Especially if using old school wheel weights.
>Pour it into your mold.
>Let that shit cool
>Out comes bullets.
>Holy fuck we made bullets.
>Measure those fuckers.
>Are they bore sized?
>If yes, you're fucking awesome.
>IF no, fuck me m8, just fucking swage em.
>Lube is good. Lube is great. Lube is god.
>Always lube your lead bullets. It helps keep the leading soft.
>Just like sex, liube is always good.
1. Half of the Hodgdon plant burned down like 4 years ago (completely wiping out their shotgun powder lines) and they haven't bothered rebuilding it yet.
2. Ammo manufacturers are buying it all up to catch up on demand after the panic.
3. The panic brought in new reloaders by the tens of thousands, skyrocketing demand.
4. Powder companies haven't increased production to meet demand for some reason.
>The designation implies it's a firing port weapon, so rather than having a shit ton of magazines, you have a shit ton of clips and just reload the same magazine repeatedly instead of just dropping them.
Port firing weapons, especially the bradly, have a mounting block and also don't have iron sights. The carry handle is there, but the sight is not milled out (for the rear sight).
>What are the ideal powder loads for 9mm and .45ACP?
How the fuck do I even pick a fucking load anyway?
>What is the main purpose of this fucking load?
> Option A: I'm trying to be a cheap jew.
>Muh Niggah, find the powder that uses the smallest powder charge with the largest safety margin you like.
>Just because I can find a load that only uses .9 grains of tightgroup, but min is .9 and max is 1.0, doesn't mean I should use that load.
>Find something with a margin you like. AKA, tightgroup in 9mm has a margin from 3.7 - 4.3 (off the top of my head, not from a manual).
>Use the cheap powder jew load (even though that's your cheapest component) and find cheap bullets.
>Option B: I'm trying to push boolits as fast as I fucking can.
>MEin Nigger, I like you.
>Pick a slower burning powder, keep dialing up the load, blow up a gun or two, learn to read pressure signs.
>I just look at velocity and be happy with warm loads, not ULTRA DEATH 5K loads.
>And keep all your fingers
>I'm trying to find really fucking accurate loads.
>Niggah, you what?
>Go full autist on brass prep and every single step of the loading process
>Go more autistic then Zed
>Did you hear me? GO ULTIMATE AUTISTIC
>Buy good projectiles
>Enjoy awesome accuracy after finding a load your gun likes.
You could buy a real lead melting pot with heating element and thermostat for less than that off amazon.
How to reload .223
>Go find yourself some fucking brass
>Inspect your brass
>Throw any away that seem sketchy, crush them toss in your scrap bucket.
>Toss away any seriously bent / crushed (but the little dent in the shoulder from the brass deflector doesn't matter, if it's got a shiny line all the way around, anything heavily scratched.
>Now you've got some brass.
>Toss that shit inna tumbler, go have a dinner and a drink.
Step 2: Resizing.
>So, decide what you want, reliability in any gun, or brass life.
>Fuck brass life, this shit gunna be good to go.
>Go empty your fucking tumblr, bitch and moan about pouring media out of the cases. Curse some more at bottle necked cartridges.
>Toss them in a junk cardboard box.
>spray with pam and shake a few times. Get a nice light coating.
>Setup your dies. I full length resize and squeeze it down like a mofo. I want this shit to run in any gun I come across.
>Check with a case gauge.
>Start resizing, sit in front of your tv, drink, let the press calm the demons in your heart.
Step 3: Trimming.
>Just trim, don't be a fucking jew, go get the lee trimmer die thing. I need to buy one, it looks awesome. I have the rcbs and hate it.
>Trim down to 1.75, because fuck bolt guns.
>But reloadfag, I have a bolt gun.
>Go measure your chamber, but I trim to a common length, because of accuracy of my crimp. Plus, we can always just seat the bullet right off the lands.
>Sit down in front of tv, and take the burrs off the brass, chamfer it lightly, and take the bur off the outside. But the hand tool.
>Toss all that brass back in your tumblr for 1 hours.
>Go prime your brass
>Get a lee classic breech with the primer feed adjustment, trust me
>Prime all that shit
>While priming, add powder.
>not before dipshit, afterwards.
>then seat a bullet by hand, stick it in a loading block or something to hold the brass.
>MFW we just did three steps quickly
Step 4: actually seating the bullet
>Grab a round, stick it in your bullet seating die. If you have a crimping/seating die, adjust it so that it's only seating. Don't be a jew, buy a 4 die set.
>I have a loaded round
>Measure that the length is right. Be mindful of bullet ogive and stuff. Make sure you're using the right load data.
>toss it into a box.
Step 5: Crimping.
>how do I fucking crimp?
>I prefer the die that has fingers and squeeze the brass
>this is why we trimmed everything, so everything get a similar crimp
>I really like crimping.
>Stick a round into your press, move the ram all the way up.
>Screw down your crimp die until it's contacting the round.
>Run it and see if it crimps.
>if it doesn't, turn the die in some, repeat.
>Keep inspecting till your get a crimp you like.
>back the die in another degree or three, then lock that fucker down.
>Crimp all your rounds
>Load them into ar15 mags.
Why don't you like crimping?
>I *really* like crimping
>I *really* *really* like crimping.
>crimping is god, crimping is good.
>Crimping ensures your bullets don't move, crucial for pistol.
>Crimping ensures you have a nice uniformly round grab of the projectile.
>Does it effect accuracy?
>Crimping is god, crimping is life.
>Just don't crush the bullet, and use light / medium crimps.
>But make sure all your starting brass is the same, and you crimp them all the same way.
I'm a little biased. I don't like relying on something like 'neck tension' that I can't super easily control.
I've also had great experiences with light crimp on rifles, and a harder crimp on pistols. I also don't like making delicate loads.
I do crimp some of my pistol loads, primarily .38/.357, 9mm and 45acp
can't stand doing it on rifles, waste of time imo, doesn't improve accuracy, maybe even negatively affects it, especially on high end match bullets
makes the brass crack sooner too
>You can anneal
>Annealing is good, preserves brass life
>Fuck brass life, I have unlimited brass.
>Fuck brass life
>I have 10 gallons of 556
>I don't anneal
>If you want to anneal, and don't have tons of source brass, it's worth it.
>I'd rather just find more brass
>If you're shooting something really rare, it's worth it.
have you looked into wet brass cleaning with steel pins?
>I'm too jew to buy the pins right now
>It makes your brass so damn pretty
>It cleans so good
>Small batch sizes.jpg
>Is it worth it for you?
>I shoot too much for such small batches.
>Not worth it for me
>Of course you are going to get unburnt powder
>Blue dot, like russia, burns super slow.
>But, it's usable in all main calibers
>Blue dot bulky, like mien penis
>Blue dot fills up those tight little cases gud
>Blue dot average all around.
>Blue dot good to stack up cheap
>Blue dot not ideal
>Blue dot not ideal
>Titegroup costs more then a 12 year old phillipine girl
>Cry and just buy more blue dot.
>Colored ammo is best ammo
>Colored marks only mean primer is sealed
>Colored means is good to insert into anus
>Colored is life, colored is good, colored is great.
>Colors have no bearing on if it was reloaded or not
>using universal powders
It's like I'm surrounded by poorfags
>titewad for maximum cheap 45
>Accurate 7 for defense 9 and 45
>Win 231 currently for 9 standard loads and 45 defense loads because I don't have 7 yet
>not owning a shit ton of powders
I personally use multiple powders. Can't name em off the top of my head, because I don't have them infront of me.
I've got titegroup, trailboss, IMR 4198, pyrodex, black powder, and SR 7625. I have another can or two of random things, but no clue what they are.
But, times are crazy, buy what you can find.
I always use varget and 4895 for most of my rifle reloading, but found some reloader 15 last week, just bought it for emergency use only.
idgaf if it sits on my shelf for 20years, hopefully i will never need to work up a load, but varget is about as rare as unicorn farts in a jar these days
I've had great success with varget personally, good enough, that right b4 sandy hook, i had bought an 8lb can of it, only have 2lbs left, and 2 other pounds I've scrounged up this year, so im good for at least another year, but im tired of paying near $30 a lb for powder, when i do see it.
I loaded some 8mm (cuz fuck having a useful round in stock) while sloshed and don't know whether or not to trust my judgement.
What's the worst that could happen?
>I loaded some 8mm (cuz fuck having a useful round in stock) while sloshed and don't know whether or not to trust my judgement.
Worst case scenario:
You blow the bolt threw your eye
Best case scenario:
Dunno if you trust your judgement.
I'd probably pull them
So better odds than coming home late to the Missus
> unjacketed lead bullets
You lead your barrel if you are using high velocity, low brinell hardness bullets. Use lube, hardcast and a gas-check and you'll see your barrel clean as a whistle.
>Jacketed soft tip
Lol no leading. Ever.
The implied ballistic benefit is that you're getting very high velocity rounds for little maintenance cost.
Actual expansion of the round depends on construction of the bullet and the hardness of the bullet in both cases.
>The closer to pure lead, the more rapidly it expands. It will also expand more.
>The harder it is, the deeper penetrating the round will be.
>Crimping is ESSENTIAL for levergun loads
for all loads except single shot bolt guns. bullet setback happens when you chamber a round in a automatic, and will also happen under recoil.
how do you reloard .22 lr
my first gun was a ruger 1022 but i can't find ammo for it but my grandpa has powder and I bought some .22mag and took the bullets out of them but how do I reload them
No it won't you dipshit.
>What sort of ballistic benefit is there to using unjacketed lead bullets vs jacketed soft tip?
It's way god damn cheaper. Plus, with a good coating not so leading
>how can I jacket my own cast bullets?
Buy a swaging dies and press and use them
>Also, how can I manufacture my own brass?
Go read up on it. Google it. You CAN but you're gonna wanna start with a parent case, but you can do just about anything to a case.
For example, people are converting .50 BMG to a 12 gauge from hell rifle load.
>You CAN but you're gonna wanna start with a parent case, but you can do just about anything to a case.
he is referring to actually making brass from a disc you tard
and no, you're not going to do this at home unless you're a machinist
Anyone use 700-X for 9mm and .45? LGS has some, there are loads for it in my book, just curious before i make a bunch
Also, fuck jacketing your own cast lead bullets. Look into Hi-tek coating, way faster and easier while not smoking or leading when fired.
>Fuck you in the asshole
>It's doable with a cheap harbor freight lathe, a 25 t press, and the right alloy of brass.
>It will be time and cost prohibitive unless it's SHTFAWKI (shit hits the fan as we know it).
>But, my nigger, there's all sorts of awesome 70's book about making all sorts of brass from parent casses.
>Nigger, it's metal, you can always add and subtract metal from a brass case
>Nigger please, we did this shit in the 1800's this is fucking possible at home.
>nigger you might have to do a rolled case with a soldered on rim, but it's god damn fucking possible.
the only reloading of rimfire that i know of is just useful for cowboy action shooters and they don't even do it. You pretty much scrape the phosphorus of match heads and paint them on the inner rim to replace the primer (forgot how exactly this is done) and cap it off with a little wax. Loading an actual .22 projectile cleanly into a spent rimfire case w/o proper equipment is nearly impossible.
you can't reload 22lr
you dont know how brass is made do you? and also you did nothing but repeat what I said, that you need to be a machinist.
>inb4 something retarded like those turned stainless 20mm rounds someone made
>>But, my nigger, there's all sorts of awesome 70's book about making all sorts of brass from parent casses.
That isnt making brass you tard, it is case forming.
>>Nigger, it's metal, you can always add... metal from a brass case
> a soldered on rim
autism confirmed. and you dont know what brazing is do you?
Why the ever loving fuck would you fucking reload mother fucking god damn .22lr
Buy it fucking cheap, stack it mother fucking deap. Go stock up during black friday.
If you want to know how so you CAN .... http://22lrreloader.com/design-details/
To add to this, opinions on Maxam CSB-1 powder? Never heard of it, and i'm getting tired of waiting for other powders to become available.
>You don't need to be a machinist to know how to run a fucking lathe.
>Niggers did this in the 1800s
>If you buy the proper alloy from mcmaster, easy enough to turn on a cnc lathe. But, just cause you can, doesn't me you should.
>That isnt making brass you tard, it is case forming.
>Bitch please, it involves adding brass to create new cases. MFW. Fuck you.
>Nigger, do you speak drunk?
>Easy enough to thread a casing, make a rim, thread it on, and solder it on.
>>You don't need to be a machinist to know how to run a fucking lathe.
hahaha, keep on believing that. ffs you even said harbor freight.
>>Bitch please, it involves adding brass to create new cases
wut. now stay mad that you dont know what case forming is.
i bet you have lee dies and a press too
> solder it on
again, you clearly dont know what you're talking about because you braze brass, you dont solder it
and l2greentext newfag
God damnit son.
Just because something IS possible, doesn't mean it's logical to do.
You *can* make casings at home.
You really don't need to. But, you CAN
Will it be cost and time prohibitive? YES.
But you still can.
Shit, I've turned 556 bras into 9mm before, kek.
Yes, the rim is a little tinier, and the case capacity goes WAY down, so you have to do careful load development. But it WILL work, atleast in a Beretta 92
calm down, I wasn't shit posting. I was telling you what I knew and the application that it was most likely used since that particular method would only be practical for cowboy action shooting.
If i wanted to shit post I would of told you to google but this kind soul >>23735566 has graciously spoon fed you.
It was a free gun I didn't care about kB'ing. It's my trial gun. Lol.
Also, another good source https://archive.org/details/cartridgemanufac00hamirich
SAdly, I'm about 500 miles away from the torrent file I'm trying to reference, and for the life of me, I cant find it on google. But it went in depth about brazing cases from old cases, and other shennanigans. Basically, it had caveats, but it did a step through step of making a case at home, from brass stock. But, from the 60's.
funny how you were talking about soldering before. let me guess, you just jewgled it and now feel retarded.
>It was a free gun
sure it was poorfag
and again stop just jewgling things without reading them, once again it does nothing but reaffirm what I said, that you need to be a machinist
Haven't tried it in pistol loads, but found it to be dirty as fuck in shotgun loads. Dunno if the extra compression/pressure of a pistol round would make it cleaner.
In a 12ga. 1oz. load it's dirtier than old-school green dot. Which is world-renowned for "shoot a round of skeet, swab the barrel and load another box of shells from what you push out"
Bullseye has been a long-standing champion for .45acp and .38spl. That powder has won more pistol shoots than all others combined, though it is also one of the older ones still produced so it's got longevity on its side.
It works but isn't ideal for the smaller, faster pistol rounds like 9mm and .40smith.
>Fug, guess that's why there's a bunch sitting on the shelf.
I've got a half pound left if you wana buy it.
>you don't *need* to be a machinist
you've clearly never made anything in your life or even took a shop class in high school. now stay poor
While we're here, anyone have an online source for any of the following:
I've got over 100lbs of powder backordered on Brownells, has been backordered since 15 february. I'm completely out of everything but H110, and I've only got a couple pounds of it left.
And fuck anyone that links to Lohman Arms, they're lying sacks of shit about what they have in stock and are charging rape-tastic prices. I had to dispute a fraudulent charge with them with my card company.
>I've got over 100lbs of powder backordered on Brownells, has been backordered since 15 february. I'm completely out of everything but H110, and I've only got a couple pounds of it left.
constantly check powder valley
I do, they simply don't seem to get Alliant shotgun powders.
I did pass up an opportunity to buy a couple 1lb cans of red dot from them a couple months ago, wasn't willing to pay hazmat on 4lbs of powder (all they had).
>posts 45 mins later
bet you hoped I had left so you could get the last word in and feel as if you had won. stay mad that you didnt know what brazing is, that you've never actually made anything, and that you're a poorfag.
you wana get jelly too besides just mad? lets play a /k/'s favorite game, guess the bolt.
How are your powder stocks looking, Reloadfag?
I currently have:
>just shy of 9lbs of H322 (opened 1lb can and unopened 8lb keg)
>16lbs of Varget (2 unopened 8lb kegs)
>~10lbs of Titegroup (unopened 8lb keg and a little left in a second 8lb keg)
>1lb of IMR7828SSC, unopened
>1lb of H1000, unopened
>1lb of H4856, unopened
>2lbs of RL15, unopened
>just shy of a pound of RL17
>~3.5lbs H110, 3 1lb cans and whatever's in my press
>2lbs W296, unopened
>~2.5lbs BL-C2, 2 unopened 1lb cans and half of a third
>~3/4lb of RL7
enjoy not getting insurance to cover your loss if you have a fire
>Smokeless powder isn't explosive
you must be new to reloading
>bet you hoped I had left so you could get the last word in and feel as if you had won. stay mad that you didnt know what brazing is, that you've never actually made anything, and that you're a poorfag.
No not really, had some work to do. Then had a beer and played a little war thunder. Was gud, was gud.
>How are your powder stocks looking, Reloadfag?
I've got about a few 1/3 / 1/4 of everything I own.
But, I've also got around 3k of mixed primers, and about 1500 loaded rounds of 9mm and ~800 rounds of 223 loads loaded up, so I'm good until the next gunshow / wherever I can source cheaper components.
...and that all references compressed/contained charges
Face it, it isn't classified as an explosive because it just burns. And if you were to create a humongous pile of it (50lbs or more) it will just burn.
I'd be more worried about the ~30,000 primers I have on hand.
>I have an insurance rider for this shit too so I'm ~still covered~