I want to buy winsor and newton artist oils tubes, but what colors do i need? they are too expensive, is it possible that i can just buy white, black, red, blue and green and just mix a variation of those to get the other colors/values?
also would this apply to watercolor and gouache?
please help /IC??!!
cad yellow light
cad red light
alizarin crimson (if you want true purples)
for gouache, get primaries, black & white, plus a magenta/purple if you want true purples. Same for watercolors
its shit quality
for practice buy regular oil somewhere middle quality
when your good technikly and you deserve good pigments buy old holland and kolinsky brush
everything beside what i said is complete bullshit dont believe what crappy teenager will say, the most important thing for you is pratice,so buy medium quality and some glazing stuff
>is it possible that i can just buy white, black, red, blue and green and just mix a variation of those to get the other colors/values?
holy shit please learn some color theory before you start painting
>get primaries, black & white
hey just so i dont confuse things what would be the names for the primary colors? thanks
>its shit quality
yh...i am going trust you over jeff/robert watts, Houston etc who recommended this brand
is it really that bad desu senpai? i am going to start immersing myself and study the barnstones method color course, would you recommend that or something else?
If you want to save money a limited palette is the way to go. White plus neutral-ish primaries and a darker earth tone to help mix your blacks. Titanium White, Cad Yellow Light, Permanent Alizarin Crimson, French Ultramarine and Burnt Umber are good colors to start with, then buy others for convenience as you need them, like Cad Red Light or Medium and Pthalo Blue or Cerulean to mix more saturated colors, Yellow Ochre or Raw Sienna for flesh tones, etc.
Or if you really don't want to spend much try the Zorn palette while you get comfortable learning.
The real issue is that working from a limited palette forces you to mix a assload of colours. Anything you have to mix is going to end up neutralized as fuck. Lets say we wanted to mix a high chroma purple from RBY. We mix the closest colours we have (RB) and end up with a neutral mess. When mixing, the chromaticity will never extend past this line drawn between the two pigments. This is find if you are working with non-vibrant colours.
My advice? Grab some of those 200ml tubes in your five primaries. Then pick up one of those crap 30-paint oil student sets to fill in the blanks. Should run about 150$, and you'll only need to replace a tube or two of paint a month.
At the very least add a tube of Dioxine Purple, Sap Green & Viridian to your palette to balance shit out. Also impasto gel, because fuck using half a tube to build texture.
First define what you'll be painting most frequently. That will help you decide a colour palette.
For example, I paint a lot of skies. My go to is prussian blue and payne's gray for deep, moody clouds. Contrasted with cad orange and pale rose. Permanent rose is a brilliant pink to work with.
Winsor Newton is my favorite brand of paints and markers.
im professionnal painter in france, so i know my stuff. i wont tell everything but to be short in my post thats the essential thing you need to know and focus on , ive been here. old holland is one of the best brand in the world since 1664 .... you dont have a trained eye but some day you will see the difference with this crap. so listen who you want i dont care
take that if you can :
titanium white x2
flake white x2
french outremer blue
+glazing medium+kolinsky brush
if you want to get serious thats the stuff.
dont waste money on fake good thing.
go cheap for understanding the medium, gettting better with shape, color ,composition an save money for pro materials when you will be ready
>what colors do i need
For what? What you absolutely need is going to be dependent largely on what you're painting.
If you want the largest range of color with the fewest tubes, you're probably going to want a magenta, cyan and yellow, plus white and black(Something like Winsor Lemon, Quinacridone Red, and Winsor Blue. I'm not terribly familiar with their range, and they use different names for colors other brands have). I've worked this way, and to be honest - it's kind of a pain in the ass. But as a place to start it's as good as any, and you can add more colors as you need/want/can afford them.
Yes, this will work for watercolor and gouache.
We don't all have rich parents to mooch off of.
Enjoy your lead poisoning.
OP, what are you planning to do? from the colors you've listed you might want to try acrylic. it's a good medium to start off in painting and the names would be much more familiar.
if you're into classical paintings and want to follow those, >>2385929 is a good start
if you gots money, >>2386332
and >>2386020 is a good idea no matter what
oil requires a lot of patience. you can't just dislike your yellow and paint over it with blue on the same day and hour. you have to get oils and solvents and learn about those and opacity of paints and find a spot to set your station and have it well ventilated so you dont get sick and clean up so you don't ruin your brushes ...
acrylic? you just need water
>im professionnal painter in france
Post your work then, mr. professional. Most artist quality paints are indeed artist quality and have their own mixes which may be better or worse than other brands, which is why people often mix between them. You're just limiting yourself by shilling for Old Holland and advocating people go off and blindly buy the most expensive thing. Yes, Old Holland is good, but so is W&N, Rembrandt, Holbein, etc.
ive neverd said i used old holland ,never said i only stick by it, you just assume it by yourself. like i said before i dont want get to complicated . if you want to get technical i listen to you i want a laugh ,ive done beaux art in paris and super trained classicaly, iv taken restauration class and many other thing
to be clear on one thing and it come from a pro
what are called "extra fine"are not extra fine industrials use misleading nomination, real extra fine are like OH or michael harding, etc.
if you think OH,MH are same quality as w&n,rembrandt, its just day and night ... thats just lame to say you dont know what your talkin about srsly
also its not a rich child thing like i already said dont waste money, SAVE MONEY for the good stuff especially if you want to sell slightly quickly
no need to do f****in lame studies with w&n
hey guys, first of really thankful for the round of replies and helpful advice.
i want to study allot of still life, plein air painting, portrait, landscape. and thus i am worried that i will feel somewhat limited by my colors, i am willing to shill out £90 for paints.
i will be going through this thread thoroughly and weigh my options now, i saved it too, just in case 4chin fucks me over.
>if you think OH,MH are same quality as w&n,rembrandt,
No one claimed W&N are as good as Old Holland.
Old Holland is clearly the superior brand, but it falls squarely in the range of diminishing returns, where the price point is too high for most to justify the quality. W&Ns artist line is fine for many people, including professionals, and is MORE than sufficient for someone who's NEW to painting. If he really wants to move up he can always do it later, but starting out with such extremely expensive paints is horrifyingly tense as you try you best not to waste your precious expensive paint.
Also, since you are a pro, let's see your website.
You have to be 18 to use this website.
>i am worried that i will feel somewhat limited by my colors
The CYMK + white palette will allow you to mix pretty much any color you need, it's just some colors will be more of a pain in the ass to mix than others. I think skin tones especially could be difficult, but I've not tried it.
>where the price point is too high for most to justify the quality
topkek love the talkin neet who know nothin
>but starting out with such extremely expensive paints is horrifyingly tense as you try you best not to waste your precious expensive paint.
you are just stupid i said the opposite
w&n is shit
>you are just stupid i said the opposite
You said no such thing. You went on about how much the quality difference is, and then
>i already said dont waste money, SAVE MONEY for the good stuff
Which has exactly JACK DICK to do with how being a newbie confronted with an extremely expensive material feels. It's a mountain of pressure, to the point some people never even start because it's too much pressure.
All of which, you said nothing about.
>w&n is shit
And yet a number of professional artists still use it. Gee, maybe it's not that bad and you're just a stuck up shithead.
No, seriously, what's so bad about it?
You're the one censoring your curse words, kid.
if you wanna get into color mixing, you need to get warm and cool shades of red, yellow, and blue. and ofc, white and black
but color mixing and matching can be extremely frustrating, its very expirimental and sometimes you'll get a color that will be nearly impossible to recreate again. i also don't know exactly how well oils mix because i've never worked with them before
White (if you don't mind lead, get their cremnitz rather than flake which has zinc)
Raw Umber (better than Burnt Umber)
This is a good starting point, and are all quite natural. There might be some pigments you will need for certain tones, but you'll probably not be using them much.
Cad red light
A big Tube of Titanium White
Its all you need in the beginning. You can Mix greens with Black and Yellow Ochre and a grey mixed from black and white will look like a blue in context with this pallette. Also dont use w&n they make great watercolor but for oils go with Rembrandt, gamblin or Michael Harding.
Depends on what you're going for OP. Echoing what some have said, you don't need a lot of colors to mix just about everything. If you want saturated then you might need certain modern colors. Go with titanium white, cad yellow, cad red, permanent alizarin crimson/quin rose ultramarine blue and burnt umber. The blue and umber can mix to get you a black.
That should get you what you need really. You can add more tubes later on. And if the artist grade is too expensive, the student grade Winton should be fine.