I'm thinking about hooking up a silks creening setup, but I know absolutely nothing about it.
Looking for experienced people that could give tips/links/books/vids/etc. about silk screening.
I was thinking about setting it up in my room, it's okay size, so shouldn't be a problem.
Would like to know if there is anything I can build by myself, or do I have to buy everything?
My budget is kinnda low, so I would like to start off with cheaper stuff, nothing fancy, just wanna print some nice shirts/posters.
TOTAL begginer, basically know nothing about silks creening, so run me through everything
>My budget is kinnda low, so I would like to start off with cheaper stuff, nothing fancy, just wanna print some nice shirts/posters.
I used to have a silk screening bench which I used mainly for making merch for my bands (pic related). I learned the hard way that if you won't be printing shit constantly, it's a lot cheaper to buy the frame with the design already emulsionated on it. The chemicals wont't last long and you'll have to throw them away if you don't use them.
>would like to know more about the lamps for exposure
Not sure what's the best option. I used quartz lamps which where cheap and worked fine. You will spend a couple of days of trial and error in order to get things like exposure time/light distance/amount of chemicals right.
It's a fun journey but a bumpy one.
fuck off faggots
>you can re-use the designs, and lateron just re-use the frames for other design
Yes, however the design will lose definition with every wash. After washing the frame some times you will have chipped edges on your design and will need to clean it completly and re do it.
>What did you mean about the frames with designs already on them?
You can buy the frame with the design you want already on it for just a little more $$ than the empty frame. I'm not sure what kind of chemicals they use for this but the design just stays there without losing definition with every wash, it's kind of permanent.
>do I have to rinse the frames after every single print, or just after every print-session?
every 15 prints or so it will start getting clogged and your prints won't look that good. That's when you need to wash it.
I work in a screenprinting factory and have thought about taking what i have learned here and starting my own business. In the long run i just dont see it being worth it. Doing it at a professional level requires a large amount of money, effort, knowledge. You can do it from home but dont expect professional results with your budget. Also dont do it in your room.... unless you like huffing chemicals and having your lungs exploding.
If you want equipment and supplies we order from here ryonet aka screenprintingsupplies.com
Any questions you have specifically i can answer for you.
What is your substrate that your printing on ..i used a wooden screen with the liverpool logo ect in red, screwed to a flat door on a woorkmate printed 500 shirts an sold them on motorway service startions ...made load's of cash...then found out it was eligal shirts looked great
Alright, sorry guys but had to go MIA for a while, got some questions and hope you're still here!
I live in Sweden, and it's kinda hard to find screen printing materials. Found some starter-kits, but they are all too fancy, and I dont have 450$ to spend on this.
Found a decent art supply store, and I'm starting to make a list of items that I need to start.
This is my list so far:
-30x40cm wooden frame for textile & paper
-rubber press thingy. 29cm
-photoemulsion speedball 781ml
-Diazo emulsion remover
-speedball paint, black 237ml
So what else do I need? I just want to print some single colored designs on my sketchbooks and patches/stickers.
I know that I still need to find a 1000W lightbulb, but isn't that about it?
Ok, got my kit ready.
Tried once, exposed for 25 min but nothing happend and my emulsion just washed off, trying a longer exposure time now.
When I mixed my emulsion with the small bottle that came along, it didnt really turn green, like I've seen on videos, but stayed relatively blue. Is this normal or did I totally fuck it up?
Check this out. First thing I searched for. All you really need for less than 1000SEK.
Although there is no light in it, however shouldn't you really only need to expose it to sun light for enough time? I've only used a dedicated bulb myself, but I don't see why it shouldn't work.
Thanks for the help man!
Actually called them, but the set isnt for emulsion exposure, its a paint based set.
I bought everything from another store, and it turned out good, I just did my first print today. Failed miserably like 4 times, with a lot of things, and learned alot from sitting in my toiler in complete darkness for 7 hours lol.
I used a 200Watt bulb, and 45min exposure (30 cm distance between lamp & screen), could've used more. FYI there is no sun in Sweden during the winter, haha.
I got a few good tips that helped me today, on my first day, if anyone wonders!
Pic related- my ghetto setup
Let me try to help...
There are some things you need to consider before starting, which you already have done.
1 - Graphics - your graphics program (Photoshop or Corel) need to be able to make vector graphics or convert raster to vector, a.k.a. just line graphics. Make sure you know how to do CYMK separations if you are doing multi color / multi screen shirts.
2 - Printer - I think one of the main printers you need is an Epson 4000 stylus, and that allows you to print your design on transparencies so that you get thick, black ink on them. Sometimes you need a program called a Ripper, and that is the printer driver that you use that makes the graphics super dark when you print on the transparencies.
REMEMBER TO INVERT BLACK AND WHITE IMAGES IN YOUR PHOTO EDITIOR!!!
3 - Light Table - Why do you need the printed images super dark on the transparencies you print on? Because you will be putting the transparencies on a silkscreen pretreated with a photo emulsifier that will react with the light in your light table. If you have pin holes in your silkscreen after developing it, then sometimes you can paint black light blocker over the parts on your transparency that light shows through.
-Light Table - Usually, with the proper equipment, about $200-400, you only need an exposure period of 45 seconds. If you have a shitty light table, take your transparency and put a dark paper over 7/8ths of it and move the paper down in increments so you can gauge how much time you need for a perfect exposure.
4 - Pressure Washer - After your silkscreen is exposed, take a pressure washer and use it to spray out the sections of the silkscreen that aren't exposed. You'd think you'd have to go easy on the screen but you can blast that fucker if you exposed it correctly.
5 - Put that fucker on a press and make sure you have each screen/color lined up correctly. It is helpful to put crosshairs on the top and bottom of your art so they print on your screen
so that they line up on your shirt you're printing on. Rolls of white or black fabric can be bought that you can do practice runs on
6 - Shirts - Get a business license so that you get a tax ID number. Get an account with Gildan, and buy their shirts to print on. They are of the highest quality, colors don't bleed, they are 100% cotton and are preshrunk.
Were do you live? Even though there might not be a lot of direct sun light, I do think the light you've got 10:00-13:00 should be enough. Although I'm far from an expert when it comes to natural exposure, so I might be talking out my ass.
Sweden, I usually work during the night, so sleep till like 11-14.
To be honest, it's VERY rare to even get a few sunny days during the winter, usually grey/darkish. But I have a 200Watt lightbulb and it works, maybe not the best, but works. Tried it yesterday and I got a crisp exposure after 45min.
is this still op? we told you ryonet if you're in US.
otherwise go for highest count mesh and print mostly black on white. I print my negatives at fed ex office because most printers wont print entirely black.