This whole hobby is a joke edition
>Where to Buy:
Old thread >>52679374
Cherry g84-4400 here.
Completely without modifications.
Yeah, I removed that shit. How gay is highlighting the WASD?
buy the keyboard without keycaps, WASD has shit tier shiny keycaps.
babby's first keyboard huh? cant get a big boy switch?
>$25 sound dampeners
are you physically retarded xDDDD :^) xDDDD
Where would you recommend for caps then?
>babby's first keyboard huh? cant get a big boy switch?
Upgrading from blues, actually. I want more clack less click.
>are you physically retarded xDDDD :^) xDDDD
Just wanted to see how that would trigger /g/ mostly, I was heavily on the fence about them and now I'm certain I don't want them.
>Where would you recommend for caps then?
google blank pbt keycap sets pretty easy mane
>I want more clack less click
clears, blues, and greens are the only cherry switches worth using,
==STOP LIKING WHAT I DONT LIKE==
>pok3r finally comes in the mail
>put on my Round 5's
Still wondering what I should do with the bottom right Control, though.
Get one of those rubber protectors that fits over the keys. I've been trying to find one for my HHKB p2. It also keeps your keys clean and is easy to remove when you want to take pictures for /mgg/
It's good, loving the clears, when coming from blue personally.
I switched out caps with ctrl, so I'm considering changing the bottom right one to FN or something.
Has anybody here ever bought keycaps from corus-kb, or had to deal with their support?
I ordered a set of nordic PBT keycaps from there 9th of December. They supposedly shipped the 19th (I live in Denmark, chose warehouse in France, shipping estimated 3-17 days).
And that's all I've heard. They never gave me a tracking number. I tried writing a support ticket on my order asking for updates the 11th of January, and again the 15th. Then I wrote an email to them the 21st. No answers on either.
What the fuck do I do now? Did I just spend $48 on air?
Do a chargeback and let them pout about it, you're in the EU and have gr8 consumer protection laws. If the caps ever turn up consider them a freebie and compensation for lies about shipping
>What the fuck do I do now? Did I just spend $48 on air?
you have two options
1) post about it on reddit, and let the moral fags take care of it for you. they will start a witch hunt, they love drama.
2) see >>52691161
I have this PCB (KC60) am I understanding things correctly if I can "remake" it as an ISO (currently ANSI)
How does that even work? I've literally never had to do anything of the sort. Do I have to contact my bank about that, or can I do it from their website?
Just looking now.
It even seems the one they have on amazon.co.uk actually DOES have the side legends according to specs. Or is that just a scam. On their website they only had top-printed.
>It even seems the one they have on amazon.co.uk actually DOES have the side legends according to specs. Or is that just a scam. On their website they only had top-printed.
Christ, fuck me in the ass, their site has the fucking option to select between top-printed and side-printed. And I see that now.
At least if they never arrive and I get a refund (how do I do this) I can get the correct ones, I wanted side-printed.
Don't order from there, just look at the posts on their facebook page.
>I've been trying to get ahold of you on email for like 3 days now, any chance of you actually answering?
>Rubbish. Ordered items from your site, no confirmation order, only Paypal confirmation. Then no contact after sending what you asked for. You've ignored 3 emails, and I've now had to escalate to PayPal. Very dissapointed.
>I really didn't want to have to do this. But your service is just terrible. It's one thing that my product don't arrive on time. But when it doesn't even contain what it was supposed to and you say you would "gladly" pay me back for the shipping fee and I still don't hear anything from you for over a week, that's just bad.
>So here's a little warning to everybody thinking of shopping from these guys. Don't expect to get any service, that your package will arrive as said, and you might not even get the product your ordered.
>Too bad, since you have some good products on your page.
etc etc etc
Ok so I take Amazon to court when my package don't show up on Tuesday? :3
Literally paid for Expedited Delivery
I fucking wish I had ordered from Amazon.
Guess that's a lesson for me.
Now, where do I buy a set of nordic ISO PBT keycaps that AREN'T from corus. Not gonna give them anymore of my money.
Yeah, you can make it into nearly any layout you can think of. I'm not a huge fan of the KC60, but the GH60 is a brilliant board, and the KC60 is close enough to count (minus a few small features).
The biggest issue you'll have is reprogramming the board, but it's not too difficult, just remember to reflash it (people often forget that step for some reason).
Also, it'll be a good idea to resolder the rest of your keys. The KC60 had some issues with weak solder joints, and even though it's plate mounted, many shipped ended up having cracked solder joints that caused people to have keys that were malfunctioning.
All-in-all, I'm only harsh on the board because of how much I like the GH60. It's a great board when you compare it to nearly any other 60% on the market. You should be able to add all of the same features as the GH60 without problems, I just haven't screwed around with mine enough to give it a shot.
You may lose backlight functionality when you flash the firmware, but I'm not 100% positive about that. It really wasn't a board that was designed to have amazing backlight features anyway :]
>corus-kb is kill
Does this mean I'm not getting my GANSS?
It said fulfilled by Amazon when I ordered it.
$22 for a full set 87 caps doesn't seem too expensive.
This should mean they're at the Amazon warehouse I presume?
Am I a memer if I buy this? (£35 with caps)
It's literally 120 Cherry MX switches at the least.
I want good, but affordable, keycaps for the pic related layout. WASD is crap, max keyboards is crap, who isn't crap?
it says "Preparing for Shipment", and it's been like that for 4 days.
I was almost considering canceling and reordering with regular shipping so they wouldn't purposely delay delivery, but now i'm not even sure it's coming.
It's for a register I'm sure.
It will be intriguing to se the programmability
I work IT for a place where we have similar keyboards for the registers and you can basically do any button to anything, pretty cool (not cherry tho)
I don't see much enjoyment from a POS board, outside of the novelty of the POS caps.
>I've heard horror stories of using Massdrop in Canada.
I'm in Ottawa and have purchased from MD three times. No problems specific to my country.
I have wanted to try an ortholinear for some time, but always found plancks only 4 rows to be too few (for gaming). And this seems to be a very good alternative
I think the design isn't too bad. Put some Zealios in that motherfucker, mod the case some and you might have yourself something cool
CMstorm keyboards are good and cheap, but the cap font is disgusting and gaymur, even though a lot of the boards are just standard.
Not just colour, branding. Cheapo boards sometimes use Kahil or Gateron
TKL is generally cheapest
Thermaltake Poseiden V is cheap, only slightly gaymur. But look out, some of the boards use kahil and some cherry
I don't know, put N/A or some shit.
>b-because I've not r-researched anything and h-hadn't hear of it
Your stuttering has run its course. Also, it's from the same dude that makes the planck. So, you know, good job.
>But come on £35 is a steal even if it was only for 120 switches imo
I'm not a fan of blacks, so from my perspective it isn't much of a deal.
Im not a fan of blacks myself if u know what I mean
If you email them and tell them that they said "Guaranteed" delivery date and Then if they are late they will give you the money back on shipping. I do it all the time. Only takes a few hours to get the money back.
>that's awfully petty of you
How so? I thought it was a craigslist ad or something, now that I see it's a store I'd just lose their URL. If they can't be arsed to make two separate listings for two separate products, they're too lazy to earn my business.
That's a long time from now and I'm not patient.
So I'm not allowed to feel excited and wish my keycaps would get here before April?
Nigger shut the fuck up, what part of "my keycaps" makes you think I haven't already ordered.
What do you guys think of the magicforce 68 key? Its available on mass drop right now for around 70 bucks and its got cherry switches available. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/magicforce-68-key-mini-mechanical-keyboard
>company tries to be a bro and exports shit to america for dirt cheap
>underlists price so you don't get sceewed on customs fees
>computer error makes it looks lost, they wont get refunded price of lost product due to underlisting like a bro
>they contact YOU about the lost product instead of hoping you will forget
>you try to scam a second keyboard you will never use out of them
What a dick.
I'd avoid those. I thought they looked killer until I received them. Most of the keys themselves aren't terrible, but the space was the most warped spacebar I'd ever owned. It could've just been a defect, but I ordered those exact caps from EnjoyPBT on taobao.
The caps are also much thinner than they appear in the picture. Light shined through them like crazy, even holding them up to your ceiling-light revealed how thin they were (you could easily see through them).
The one positive I'd say is that they had amazing colour. I've probably never had a set that had such a great colour palette. I had milk white and light-grey. If it weren't for those issues, I would have kept them.
Those are just my opinion. I'm sure other people feel differently about them, but I won't be ordering from EnjoyPBT again.
To put the spacebar into perspective, it was so warped that it wouldn't fully depress in my keyboard, it kept hitting the side of the case.
Oh, and the profile was interesting. It was my first time trying Gateron profiled caps, and they're completely different than cherry. The height difference is noticeable, and many see it as a huge plus. It felt like the surface of the cap (where your fingers actually touch) was much smaller than other keys. IIRC, the F and J keys were about 9mm across, 10mm long.
Take this with a grain of salt, ofc. I'm bitter about my spacebar issue and the thickness. It could have been a bad batch, and it was much cheaper than the group-buy, so maybe they've made some new caps for the gb that have a higher standard of quality.
I have a set of gateron ghost whites, and my experience is not the same.
>the space was the most warped spacebar I'd ever owned
PBT spacebars are prone to warping, and it seems some people just get bad ones. Mine's fine.
>The caps are also much thinner than they appear in the picture.
They're thicker than a lot of sets.
>Light shined through them like crazy
Normal for light colours, even on thick caps.
>they're completely different than cherry
Gateron are cherry profile. It's the same profile.
>the F and J keys were about 9mm across, 10mm long
The homing keys are scooped, if that's what you mean.
What's the difference with ghost white and regular white? Couldn't find a good illustrative picture.
Also, I've heard cheap PBT can suffer durability issues...that true or just hyperbole?
>What's the difference with ghost white and regular white?
Ghost white on the far right.
>Also, I've heard cheap PBT can suffer durability issues
What, like it'll crack over time? I have not heard this.
where are all the numberpads, why cut that side of your keyboard off? isnt it better to have a keyboard with a numberpad and maybe use it, rather than cut it off completely and suffer? not like it takes up so much desk space
WASD is not crap.
They are just norhing special.
They USED to be absolute shit. Like wear out in a month shit.
Their new printing and sealing process is pretty damn good though. You can get years with heavy daily use and have no shine.
I'm totally confused about these. The last one was the skull on the banana phone, this one's a ninja turtle sitting on a bench in the sewer.
I'm I completely off base, or am I at least close?
The galaga and other pixel-art kbs at least look like something I can recognize, but these that you've been posting look almost impossible to define.
Is it the ninja turtle, or something that I'm missing?
>Is it the ninja turtle, or something that I'm missing?
I envy your purity.
>I switched out caps with ctrl, so I'm considering changing the bottom right one to FN or something.
Did you? I don't know anything about the ISO Pok3r, but it's the bottom-right key normally ctrl? If you're saying that it's a different from the keyset, I don't see it at all, it looks exactly like the rest of the keyset, maybe with a slightly thinner font, but I'd assumed that was just a manufacturing issue.
Ah, I get what you're saying. You swapped Caps for control and now need to figure out what to do with the bottom-right control key. Nevemind then.
To be honest, I didn't realize that the Pok3r had that kind of functionality. I figured you could only use some sort of dip-switch setup to assign the their preset layout changes.
How? All of these are completely subjective other than maybe the color but I think that both the white and black look good. Are there any real reasons relating to the quality of the board that I shouldn't get it? I have heard that the case can be a bit dodgy but I am not concerned as I plan on replacing the case and key caps soon.
I more or less agree with you that completely that color / switch / layout are totally subjective, but realistically, the only thing the Pok3r has going for it is the case.
Personally, I think the Pok3r has one of the best OEM cases available, but you can buy them for ~30-35 bucks from people who upgrade them.
The GH60 is the best 60%, hands down. It's cheaper, equally reliable, and fully programmable/open source. On top of that, you aren't set with a single layout, you can rearrange the keys into practically any layout. You can switch from ANSI to ISO, you can add split shifts to both L-shift and R-shift, and even change how you want the split to be setup (1.75u left and 1u right, or 1u left and 1.75u right). You can do split-backspace. You can change the bottom-row layout to a nonstandard or winkeyless, etc. etc. On top of that, you can program 9 layers, 10 if you include the base layer (which is also fully programmable). You can load your own firmware onto the board, the list goes on and on. If it had the Pok3r case by default, it would easily be the best 60% board STOCK, and changing the case is the easiest mod you can perform. IIRC, you can even deviate from strictly MX switches and use Alps (it's been a while since I've looked at the PCB, so I might be off on that part).
There's even expansion ports on the PCB that allow for RGB lighting, RGB underglow, and even the ability to add a numpad and change your 60% to a TLK or Full-sized board.
The craziest thing about this, is that it's also one of the least expensive high quality 60% boards you can find. I'd imagine it doesn't sell with a better case because it would raise the price.
Original GH60 Rev Bs are hard to come by lately, so you're stuck with the KC60, which is a replica. It's slightly less open because it doesn't have the same expansion ports on the PCB, but they can be added with some soldering.
The KC60 sells for something like 80 bucks, which is nuts when you compare it to the Pok3r.
I have the Corsair K70, and I bought a full set of Vortex double shot white keys to fuck around with and replace ones when I want to, but I know the bottom row is nonstandard layout. Anyone know of a nonstandard set I could buy that'll match the Vortex ones that are coming in?
What do you consider to be the nicest feeling, highest quality keyboard you've ever used, /mkg/? Be as specific as possible.
B.Face mini w/ Zealios 62g switches, cherry stabs all around, minus the Costar stab on the spacebar.
Next to that, this bizarre IBM w/trackpoint we use on our servers at work.
Next to that, Realforce 108uh HiPro 10th anniversary,
Next to that, Apple Aluminium (not even kidding).
At least, those are my favorites in each catagory. Can't think of my favorite full-sized mech right now, though.
I had a look at the KC60 and I have got to say it looks fantastic. The only problem is I need it soon and I have no clue where I can buy it. Do you know where I could get one? I need to be able to get it shipped to Australia.
I'll admit it. I play a lot of FPS.
I don't really need or even care to have my WASD keys highlighted though. It might be helpful just for overall hand positioning though if I just quickly want to look at my keyboard for typing. So I'm voting yes. I'd like my F and H key highlighted instead even more though.
Your best bet is to order one from mechmarket or a GH classified. If at all possible, get a GH60, you won't run into any software problems, and it's a much easier board to experiment with.
I play with my KC60 more because it's easier to come by, and if I ever do irreparable damage to it, it's not hard to get a new one, but the GH60 is better out-of-the-box.
If you don't want to buy a used one or secondhand one, you'll have to wait for MD to do another KC60 drop, or you can order one from TaoBao through a proxy. The TaoBao KC60s have better cases, but they use either a knockoff GH60 board (it says GH60 on the board, but isn't the original. it's a white PCB rather than the green/black of the original), or they use the SpiRiT PCB, which is decent. To be honest, they're probably both better PCBs than the KC60, they have similar expansion ports to the GH60, but I just dislike the idea that the GH60 clone isn't even going by a name like "KC60" - it's a straight knockoff.
Personally, i'd go for the mechmarket/GH market option rather than TaoBao, unless you want to wait for up to a month on shipping.
>>52656418 here again and I've finally found time to program the thing, at least enough to type out this post on it. slapped some rubber feet on the bottom and now I've got a new daily driver.
I plan on writing the rest of the code from the keyboard itself now that it's usable. seems like a good way to get used to it too
very high,,,,its been a good night.
thanks fo asking anon ..,.,it means alot to me
My old keyboard was a Trigger, biggest problems I had with it was the godawful software and the slightly nonstandard layout that made touchtyping annoying when using multiple keyboards. Other than that, it was pretty good.
I hereby declare that I grew tired of helping poorfags making good decisions.
Let them have their stupid kalih switches and dead ducky leds, let them buy their noppos and wasd, who cares.
They never listen, they never understand, they always pick the $60 crap in the end, so fuck them and fuck who wastes his time trying to help them.
>implying kalih switches are that bad
>implying you should actually spend $200 on your first keyboard
>implying there aren't better things to spend your money on
Yeah you got it now, I did change the bottom left control to FN instead of the bottom right, because it made more sense.
The reprogramming you can do with the Pok3r is actually quite surprising.
Don't highlight them, it looks really gay.
As ive said to other newcomers getting WASD, keep it clean or you will definately regret it later unless you buy a new set.
I ordered a set of blanks with light grey mods and white alphas. Man they look sexy.
Still waiting on some diodes and my microcontroller...
I'm planning it such that the numpad will be hard wired (but disconnectable) to the main board and run off of that. I've posted my wiring diagrams in previous threads, but here's what it looks like, except for the wires to and from the microcontroller.
I need some advice. I have a Corsair K95.
I spilled a bit of diet soda on the left side of the keyboard and it started shorting out.
I unplugged it, used distilled water to clean, dried it off with my datavac, and then let it sit overnight.
I plugged it in this morning and found that most of the keys on the RIGHT side of the keyboard are not working. Everything to the right of the R and F keys basically.
The LED button also doesn't work, but I can use the K95 software to turn on the LEDs and they still work fine, just the buttons on the keyboard itself don't.
My question is, does this indicate that the keyboard is permanently damaged, that I need to do a better job of cleaning, or that I need to wait longer and hope it starts working again?
>Your wiring looks pretty complicated, actually.
It could be simpler, but an 8x8 matrix leaves me with more pins on the microcontroller than a 14x5 matrix. This means that I can actually wire up status leds like caps lock or whatever I want. Now that it's all drawn up though with a layout table, it will be super easy to just replicate what's on screen and copy paste that shit into the source files for the firmware. It's also not nearly as complicated as it looks even though it uses at least twice as much wire as a standard matrix. There's a pattern to it.
>How are you pulling off the detachable feature?
I'll let you know when I figure out the specifics. I'm going to have to find a connector that has at least nine conductors and isn't absurdly huge and I don't want to use any usb connectors (including type-a 3.0 which would be perfect or type-c which would also work).
I haven't put a whole lot of effort into it because that's just the icing. My main focus is getting the main board functioning and then I'll figure everything else out after. I probably have a lot of time to do so since I think the diodes I ordered got lost in the mail (tracking says they were delivered a few days ago and they have yet to appear in my mailbox).
>an 8x8 matrix leaves me with more pins on the microcontroller than a 14x5 matrix
Ah, I was wondering if that was your objective.
>I'll let you know when I figure out the specifics.
I'll be curious to hear what you come up with.
>I don't want to use any usb connectors
For technical reasons?
>For technical reasons?
Mostly just preference. I don't want some shit head (or drunk me) to come along and decide that all usb plugs work in all usb ports and with how I would have to wire it, pressing certain buttons on the number pad while it's plugged into a usb port could short out the computer it's plugged into and fry the port but also because I don't want to have two usb ports on my board when only one of them is actually usb. I plan on wiring a pass through port later on down the road.
I'll probably end up doubling or tripping up on connectors though since it may be easier than getting one big one.
I should also mention that I am doing this project for fun and to see how little I can spend. So far I'm at just over $30 for what you see, including the microcontroller. Also, like many projects, I suspect I'll never finish it because as soon as I get it working, I'm going to add features one by one and probably eventually replace the wood with something else and so on. It's so I have a toy to tinker with.
Thinking about getting the Quickfire Rapid-I, it's pretty much the only decent mech I can get without getting something shipped from abroad.
How shitty are the stock keycaps? I had the K70 for a while and hated the feel of the keycaps it had.
How good or bad is it compared to the old Quickfire Rapid (non -I)?
I'm also a bit worried about the rubber coating it has, isn't that gonna be a dust magnet?
>I'll be curious to hear what you come up with.
I just had an idea. I can essentially glue two connectors together (probably micro usb because I have a bunch of those and because 5 conductors instead of 4) and possibly recess the receptacles enough so that the wire will be flush.
Hmm. Now I have something else to ponder and experiment with.
Another thought would be using an old cd player with a remote. That would work best.
The rubber coating is a dust magnet, I can confirm this for my quickfire xt.
The stock keycaps are alright. I've had it for ... I forget. Let's say two years at least, My left hand keys are visibly more worn than others, but nothing has disappeared. Again, this is an XT, not a rapid-i.
I feel like I'm about to get memed but I consider a WASD with either MX brown or clears.
MX blues sound like toys and I don't want to annoy people around nor appearing like the dude who wants to be the special snowflake attention whore.
Oh look, someone is selling bright blank Gateron keysets with ISO compatibility (!) from within Europe so no extra import fees:
i'm on brown. they don't feel like rubber domes because rubber domes feel super mushy once you migrate to a mechanical keyboard.
the "tactical bump" is useful but you stop noticing it after a while because your fingers get used to the privilege of realising when to move positions. it's a great beginner keyboard for both gaming and typing, since speciality switches like reds can lead to unexpected results.
Can I put WASD's custom keycaps on a Model M?
I must create the ultimate meme keyboard.
This drop is back up and apparently assdrop now had a mobile site.
I recommend clears if you don't mind slightly heavier switches. But if you ever decide on browns, I'm sure there are cheaper options for the same build quality. I'd normally recommend WASD/Code for not-so-common Cherry switches.
It's really not a big pain with mechanical switches because the keycaps come off so easily. You more than likely won't have to do it every three months unless you are extremely grimey. It will take you around 30-45 minutes to give your keyboard a full detailing. Stop crunching Doritos under your caps and pull em out. I promise it's not as bad as it seems.
Whoa. If your keyboard had a consciousness it would say thank you for inquiring about cleaning it.
If you're still here, look up the CM Storm QuickFire TK. Do yourself a favor and don't buy Razer mechs. Cherry MX switches will last you a longer time and went through much more testing than the Kailh switches in cheaper mechanicals.
Thanks dude. I have a CM Storm Quickfire Tenkeyless that I absolutely adore, but I'm letting my girlfriend borrow it because her mac keyboard fucked up.
I got this Blackwidow Ultimate that a friend gave me for free when his lady told him he can't play video games anymore. I like the backlighting, but the macros throw me off as I always hit them instead of the ctrl keys and what not.
I will look into that.
except being gay isn't a medically problematic condition, whereas pedophilia is under the field of psychiatry. source: http://apps.who.int/classifications/icd10/browse/2015/en#/F65.4
and before you post something like
>implying being gay isn't an illness
consider if you're a smart enough person to understand that the most shocking thing to say isn't at all a reasonable answer
that's because of shifting cultural changes and an increased understanding of what sexual orientation is, the same way that pedophilia was classified as an illness based on sexual attitudes in the modern age
while psychiatry isn't an exact science (more of a interpretation of the morality of modern times), we should focus on what we consider reasonable for a person to be like.
you proved my point. pedophilia and child marriages have not been considered acceptable in the developed world from the 20th century onward, and is unlikely to be considered a reasonable thing for an adult to want again.
the social stigma of dating anybody who's even in high school is so intense that it dissuades most people from getting in a relationship with them. the social stigma is unbearable for child-adult relationships.
but beyond that it is considered a medical condition, so you should get that checked out for free.
Ducky with blue switch coworkers guy here, I am using the logitech washable keyboard everytime I have to take my laptop to meeting rooms and I'm sick of cabling in general. Need a wireless solution to clear up wire clutter. Would /mkg/ recommend the following?
Oh btw that's only the slider.
Topre doesn't have switches since it's the whole pcb board that polls for the current in the springs, so you can't have ONE topre SWITCH.
If you need sliders, a site sell 3d printed ones for 7€ a pop
If someone managed to do it I'm guessing there'd be crazy demand, then?
It's definitely possible. The keyboards included with NeXT workstations had Helvetica doubleshot PBT caps (pic related).
Why the fuck have you poor fags not gotten a job yet, and saved up for something good like this keyboard right here
It's a sexy board
too bad it uses a non-standard variant of ADB
Should I get the V60 or the Pok3r? The latter has the ugliest fucking caps i've seen and I can't wait until april for new caps.