Programmable switch testers edition
>Where to Buy:
Old thread >>52663720
what are some small and practical layouts?
My first mech was a quickfire TK because I wanted to smaller keyboard without sacrificing the numpad.
I think it's fantastic and but im thinking of using the TK in the office (they're brown siwtches)
and getting a smaller compact keyboard for home usage (blues of course)
I dont use the numpad at home at all, even when gaming, but I do have various macros assgined to the function keys
what is the smallest keyboard with function keys and arrow keys?
i do not need the numpad or the delete/insert keys
Kinesis needs to hurry up and release the Advantage2.
I'd like to address the
>LOL 60% KEYBOARDS ARE ONLY FOR FAGS WHO DON'T DO ANY WORK meme.
I'm an accountant who just so happens to use a HHKB, a Elecom trackball and a Realforce 23UB every day.
Honestly the HHKB has the best key layout of any board I've ever used. For office work it just makes so much sense, it just feels right.
And having the numpad separate means I can stow it to one side if I'm writing E-Mails etc. Also, I can put the trackball between the board and the numpad, where it is really comfortable.
So before you start slagging off 60% boards, and especially HHKB again, go and buy one before you shitpost on /g/ about how rubbish they are.
I was happier with my M570 to be honest, but not by much. I would have got another if they were sold here in Australia and I hadn't already gone through two of them.
The Elecom has more functions, but the scroll wheel is inexcusably bad - it has a lot of Z-axis movement when you try to scroll. But it does have left-to-right scrolling, which I love.
How do i save these settings on a ducky?
Manual says nothing
>noppoo choc mini
what the fuck that is actually perfect and it's under $100 on amazon holy shiting fuck
what the fuck i hate myself for buying the QFR right now please tell me the noppoo has some deal breaking issues so i can feel better about this piece of shit quickfire
yeah its fine but it is the same price as noppoo choc mini and if i bothered to do a bit more research i would have gotten the noppoo instead
i find the QFR a little big and i only ever looked at the 60% keyboards without arrow keys which seem a little impractical for me
god damn it
I tried contacting the support for something I couldn't find before, but I believe this could help you
Its a ducky legend.
I've never seen anything related to firmware for it. I had contacted them twice, and both times i never got a response. I looked at all the side legends and nothing seems relate to it
I do and no one ever cares since I type quiet and in the back, im not a dick. But honestly the rubberdome keyboards are louder than me.
best bag man pretty dank. Which edition do you have? I have the Colorado one.
I thought i included it, but i didnt, my mistake
I had contacted ducky last month when i got it and then again about 1-2 weeks ago. I never got a response,spam folder included. I've asked /mkg since then in probly 50 threads and you're the first to even reply.
If your paying for your education you should be able to bring w/e you want.
This one has already been unlocked, so it should be fine.
I went out of my way to frys to try out mechanical switches.
hate them, too clacky, the actuation point and the delay for the switch reset is really grating and annoying
really hard to press, it's not easy to bottom them out which is essential because it has no actuation indicator
it feels like a hard to press awful rubber dome switch
a mushy, but familiar switch feeling
it feels just like a run of the mill rubber dome switch.
what is even the point?
there is no way to not bottom these out, but they make a lot of noise and I can type on them really fast, they're great
why do people hate these again?
>it feels like a hard to press awful rubber dome switch
No, it doesn't. Blacks are linear, rubber domes are tactile.
What does this even mean to you?
>why do people hate these again?
Association with video games.
Yah I just know waiting for shipping is a bitch.
yes it is my friend.
Man, those keys looked really neat, but I just couldn't justify spending like $70 on keys to replace the keys I already have on my keyboard that work just fine.
I've got a full-size Rosewill with reds because 420 noscope gaming for life
octopie, you post this same fucking keyboard and home setup at least 20 times a day and it's not even that impressive
at least post your fucking legs if you're going to attention whore this hard
As long as it isnt causing fatigue/pain there is nothing wrong with bottoming out on linears.
You can check back later for all the "typists" being irate about this, and providing some radical irrelevant reasons why its wrong
I dont game at all, and i have no problem typing on reds, and it such a relief not having anything in the way of my stroke and a light key
Browns are a plastic slider on a spring with a tiny bump in the middle. The force is largely linear outside of that bump. A rubber dome has a more rounded force curve throughout, with a collapse after the bump and decrease in resistance until you hit the bottom.
They do not feel the same.
Here is what a rubber dome + membrane force curve looks like.
alright boys i ordered some o-rings from banggood
how long am i gonna be waiting for the fucking shipment
and do those o-rings actually improve anything?
they cheap us fuck so it was one of those buy-and-forget type deals but bottoming out on my keyboard was actually bothering me quite a bit
I do not care what the math or phsycias of it are.
They fill mushy like arubber dome.
A warm female mouth feels like a vagina, because the tissue the vagina is made of is the same of the walls of our mouth.
It isnt a vagina but it feels the same way.
>how long am i gonna be waiting for the fucking shipment
>and do those o-rings actually improve anything?
Maybe if you're bothered by the noise from bottoming out. I find that it wasn't worth the shorter throw and squishy feeling (assuming you're getting typical 40A-50A rings).
>bottoming out on my keyboard was actually bothering me quite a bit
Because of the noise?
>Because of the noise?
yeah the mechanical click of blues are perfect but when you bottom out it sounds like you dropped a piece of lego on your plastic table or something
>enjoy your mushy keyboard
well we'll see but i dont think it would bother me too much
[spoiler]especially since i actually enjoy using a membrane KB at work[/spoiler]
I got buckling springs upon buckling springs bruh
Not him, but I can't say I use the home row either. After years of staring at the keyboard while typing, I decided to just try not looking at the keyboard one day, and I was able to still type fine. Not to say I have a particularly impressive WPM or anything, but it's pure muscle memory. My hands just sort of float around.
I love them. But so did the gf. so they're on her's now.
Okay I see this picture a lot. Is that a custom Miami set made out of jelly POM keys? Because those quasi-translucent plastics are gorgeous and no material has sounded or felt as nice as the POM caps on the Choc Mini I fixed and flipped.
Thanks, RGB has always been a favorite of mine.
you see my pictures a lot senpai? awesome.
They're from geekkeys. Just PBT cherry profile.
this set was from the same makers. didn't like it as much.
i literally type with my hands above the keyboard using 2 index fingers and my right thumb
i get 80wpm, but i've hit the skill ceiling using this technique
i can't really be bothered to learn homerow and unlearn 15 years of bad habits
Oh, neat. Perhaps it's just an artefact of whatever fancy glass you're shooting through? They sure look translucent in that shot, like the POM keycaps Feng is supposed to be doing a group buy for that I missed out on by literally two hours. PBT has been solidly opaque in my experience, though.
Sold them all a long time ago unfortunately.
There's a pretty good chance that I'll get more from them soon, though.
no super special glass. Canon 50mm 1.4(on an AE-1)
its all good man.
>a group buy for that I missed out on by literally two hours
I ordered a green set through his GB, but dang it's taking a while. Apparently some have shipped out, but maybe not all? Whatever, I'll get it eventually.
>PBT has been solidly opaque in my experience, though.
I think it's just softer edges and colours that contribute to the effect. My gateron ghost white set has a bit of that look (not that you'd know it with my phone camera).
I am using a HHKB and I was wondering if I can make the FN key act as a toggle rather than having to be held down to access the F keys i can press it once use f keys, press it again and use the number keys. pls help ;_;
$5 each on average, sometimes more or less for especially good or bad quality ones.
It's a pretty awesome hookup desu.
>Apparently some have shipped out, but maybe not all?
Last I heard he was having trouble wrangling the manufacturers, who were being shady
I've been refreshing his store hoping to see them pop up, but got impatient and copped the Tai Hao Miamis from the latest massdrop. Will probably still try to land a set of white pom if they ever reach retail.
Oh fuck, totally didn't realize that /g/ still has word filters. Nice.
>he bought a 60% keyboard with standard keys missing
it comes with the territory, dumbass
you buy a keyboard like that only if you're a special snowflake who is already used to esosteric control schemes like vim and have no use for function, arrow or nav cluster keys.
jesus it's not that serious. i could just not be a lazy cunt and use my pinky to hit fn and access the fn keys. i'm just saying it would be good design (not on the keyboard) to be able to "lock" fn and make it act similar to caps lock.
Maybe if you use AutoHotKey, but not through the keyboard's own firmware.
Actually, I'm pretty sure it wouldn't even work with AHK since the fn key doesn't send a true keycode.
Well, there you have it.
Guess you're stuck with holding down the Fn key.
Oh yeah, that's true. Hasu sells a custom programmable controller on Geekhack.
I think it's like $50.
I haven't. Never felt the need to. I'd like to try it out, but it seems like a lot of effort.
>it's runescape don't laugh
You can't tell me what to do.
I play runescape because of dank memes, its ok
Does anyone here actually keep multiple keyboards around with different switches? I am considering getting myself a brown switch but I am afraid that I am not going to like it and eventually will want to part ways with it. Anyone here actually experience the second hand market?
Has anyone had luck molding there own autist caps from a resin?
Something I've always wanted to experiment with
>There are people out there who think that the click clack skull is a good design
I can't handle it.
Yep. I like being able to rotate between different keyboards every so often.
Selling stuff on Geekhack/Reddit is pretty simple. eBay is even easier, but you lose a lot of money to fees.
the original Microsoft ergonomic.
Honestly anything quiet but why not just write notes if your worried of bothering people.
whats the loss rate you have experienced?
I want your opinions
>order pic related from Japan
>Love the keyboard, but the price did sting a little
>recently got an email from the seller saying they checked with shipping and there is no record of my recieving my keyboard
Do I tell them I never recieved it in an attempt to get my money back/a second keyboard?
Depends on what board I'm selling. I usually end up making a profit off of Korean customs, cause demand is always growing for those. Topre stuff retains like 75-80% of it's value. Low-mid tier MX stuff doesn't sell well on Geekhack but on reddit/eBay it holds its value about as well as Topre.
You say that like it's a bad thing. I love my MS Natural Elite and I'd use it if I wasn't being mech snob. Or if I could retrofit it to mech switches.
Mine's got the cross-style cursor layout though. I think I have one like yours somewhere.
Happened yo me accept they just gave me a refund.
Yah I use browns in my library in my little corner. Never really that loud to bother anyone but would advise against anything mx if you want no clicks.
Is it worth learning to make a keyboard? I Have experience already with circuits from my rc hobby.
I think it's pretty fun. There are a lot of cool custom boards that don't come prebuilt. If you feel confident about your soldering skills then I'd say go for it, but if not then you should probably get an old Alps or similar keyboard to practice on before taking a soldering iron to your expensive PCB.
I have been up and down on getting a second keyboard but I suppose your words have swayed me into committing to a second keyboard. Worst case scenario is that I end up selling it I suppose
why would anyone ever buy a winkey-less board?
Even if you don't want a windows logo key, it's incredibly useful because every OS has evolved to include shortcuts for the super key
couldnt you possibly bind it to another key?
like scroll lock for example i have never use that key in my life
...actually that is very interesting
today is literally the first time i have pressed the scroll lock key in my life
what the fuck does it do?
>and no one ever cares since I type quiet and in the back
That's a pretty remarkable feat if you're typing on MX switches. The key chatter/rattle seems almost impossible to avoid, irregardless of the mods you have on your kb.
Just lightly sliding my hands over my mechs leads to some rattle that ends up being quite loud. Even on my quietest board, it just seems impossible to avoid. Unless you were using something like a silenced Topre with firmer switches, I have no idea how you'd accomplish this.
I've never had any issues bottoming out on my boards, I pull the keypress right when I know it's going to actuate, and I catch the keys on the return most of the time (if my goal is to type quietly), but without sacrificing a tremendous amount of typing speed, it seems like a daunting task.
Mind if I ask how you do it? I've been working on my first attempt at casting my own sliders that have a better fit in the housing, I'm not sure if it'll make much of a difference, or even if I'll be able to accomplish a successful mould, but I'd imagine it's the only way to successfully reduce the keychatter/rattle. I only have experience moulding/casting with specific art related resins, so I'm not sure how well this ABS concoction will work.
Honestly, I'm pretty doubtful that I'll yield any successful results, but it's a fun project nonetheless.
Are you using modified sliders or housings?
comes down for me to typing quickly and efficiently. Cant be a constant state of leet hacking. I only recommend return pads as the loudest click is the return for me. But to be honest I have not even touched or modified my pok3r yet and with browns it literally sounds like one of those stupid dell keyboards everyone types to loud on so I blend in lol.
Like here I was in my programing class and most people could barely hear it besides the qt next to me which he didn't care >>52680529
Hold Fn and F9 for one second.
Keep Fn pressed and press whichever Fn key is indicated in the manual in order to set the setting you want (e. G. Fn + Fn 4 for whatever usb acceleration repeat rate).
That's it. Your setting is now saved, wait for half a mimute or so and the board should leave settings mode and you're good. It's that simple.
>mfw waiting for my mechanical keyboard in the mail
if i ever become omniscient i will use my power to track every second of my shipment.
fuckers better hurry but handle it with care at the same time
I once ordered some accessories from china and it took so long i actually forgot about it for an extra month after it came in the mailbox
>if you're omniscent, just materialize free money and teleport to china to buy your shit
ask me how I know you're american.
pok3r white and midnight key caps.
HHKB Pro 2 Black Printed + White Printed Keyset - LNIB
Will not be able to part out; only sold as a combo. $240 shipped worldwide ($185 for the keyboard, $55 for the keyset)
Condition: Only used by previous owner a few times. Like new condition, comes with box and all it's contents, as well as a spare keyset. The keyboard has the white printed keyset currently on, but will come with the original black printed keyset as well.
Manufacturing date of the keyboard is 2015/10. Purchased by previous owner 2015/12.
Anyone that's using Amazon can u help a brother from a non-Amazon country out
I just ordered some stuff from Amazon.de for ghe firdt time, entered my card (not cvv number) but Im not chargrd yet. on the order I can see "Request invoice" but when I press it only 1 of the 2 items are in a list there
THE QUICK BROWN FOX JUMPS OVER THE LAZY DOG./nkeyrollovermasterrace/
>nothing do with your discussion but is there a keyboard that doesnt rattle when you slide your hands over it?
>surely there isnt and if there is that shit is mine
There are some slight landing pad/silicon mods you can do to some Topre boards. It makes the keys much more firm, but it can change the feel of the keypress dramatically. Most of these tend to be more permanent mods, too.
The basic silicon ring mod on something like the Realforce makes the keys much more firm/solid, but if not done correctly, the beginning of the keypress ends up being at it's peak resistance, and it ruins the feel of Topre boards for some. The additional mods are to use a non-permanent silicon that holds the key in place, but this is a ridiculously tedious and time-consuming mod, and again, requires being done properly or you can do irreversible damage to a board. It definitely shouldn't be done before resale of a new/mint board, and if you were to try it, you should do it on something like a novatouch or typeheaven that you don't care about (I've never used either, desu, but I'm assuming they would both work just as well as a Realforce).
Both of those mods are reversible, it's just that they take much more time to do than swapping switches on a regular MX board, and removing them can be a weekend-long task. Landing pads are a much safer alternative to the silicon mods, but the silicon mods are far superior in my experience.
I've been playing around with MX mods, as this is the biggest issue with MX boards for me. You likely will never be able to avoid having keys of any keyboard wobble around once depressed, but preventing the wobble/chatter is definitely solvable, it just takes time. For MX specifically, I've been playing with the idea of creating my own sliders, but because they require pressing two copper leaflets, it'll be more difficult to solve than the Topre mods (basically, the play is practically required in the switch).
topre by default is less wobbly than ANY cherry switch, at rest.
literally one of the things I liked more coming from cherry is how firm the key stay if I don't want to press them, unlike mx where I could slide my hands over it and feel like they started to depress, no matter the force required to activate.
Like they would travel 1mm down easy no matter what.
Ah man, I think I'd have been chewed out by the teacher if I would have brought a mech into my uni. I guess the Pok3r case helps, I know that it helps keep the keyboard much more silent than other plastic cases. I've been thinking about grabbing one for a GH60 mod mod I started a few months ago. I'm a bit torn between the original Pok3r case, the Tex Aluminum, or one of those chinese aluminum cases.
I've never considered using landing pads on an MX switch. I feel like most of the noise comes from within the switch itself, and the sound it creates from any empty space within your case. I'll have to try out that Pok3r case, or try a sandwiched acrylic case.
so if anyone is interested in getting a CHEAP iso novatouch, eprice.it is reselling the one I tested for 48h for only 85€.
I didn't even cum on it.
maybe if you like poop and stuff.
poop is brown
dirt is brown
black people are brown
so are indians
so, what does that say about you?
pic related, I use whites.
Guess the guy saying it stains easiliy was right.
it was me.
that picture is MINUTES after unboxing.
the case has a rubbery finish that gets stained like nothing.
see this other pic found on imgur
Is there any reason why my matrix won't work? I know it will be more complicated to wire and more complicated to program than a 'standard' 5x14 matrix but I need the additional space on my microcontroller for something else and my 8x8 matrix will give me the extra pins I need if it works.
Also, sorry for the sloppy handwriting, palm rejection was not working so I had to hover hand it.
If you wire all of the circuits the correct direction and make damn sure you have written the code the right way there is no reason this wont work.
What controller are you using?
Because wiring it upside-down where the connectors on the switches are will be significantly easier than rightside-up.
A teensy 2.0.
I am also hooking up a separate number pad and thus I will need the extra 9 pins
You wire them on the bottom and the code is written as to reflect the real wiring.
Rate my keycaps. I'm thinking of getting this with clear or brown switches
is there a such thing as a topre keyboard in an 84 key layout like the noppoo choc mini? i want f keys, arrow keys, no numpad, and no wasted space around arrow keys like most tkl keyboards have
>A teensy 2.0.
>I am also hooking up a separate number pad and thus I will need the extra 9 pins
If the num pad is on the same controller you can use the same rows for it so you would only need the extra 5 cols really.
get a leopold fc660c.
but seriously, you want an hhkb, you just don't accept it yet.
I have one. They are bretty gud.
The only issue I had on mine is that there is a fucking blue led under f4 and f6 that is lit to indicate some shit like nkro or some random crap like that. You can turn the led off by pressing fn+f9, but they turn on again when cumputer restarts. I dessoldered them because it was annoying, but you can keep pressing fn+f9 for the rest of your life if you want.
Asside of that, a perfect keyboard for me. Simple, sturdy, no backlight faggotry, and the case material is really nice, IMO better than the stock filco case of my other board.
Stock keycaps are shit tho, but that was expected.
>mfw Italy invented a new switch
[ItalyAT&T 6300 keyboard(KBD 302)
(yes it says made in italy on the rear)
>I think you mean smudged
the difference is not so subtle in my language.
Most (all?) microcontrollers do not have 60+ inputs so to wire up each key so that they do something unique, you have to create a matrix. When you create a matrix, instead of having 61 individual inputs, you only have to have how many rows + how many columns. In my specific example, it will require 19 inputs on a microcontroller instead of 61, 14 for the columns and 5 for the rows. Basically, any one key will activate any two pins on the microcontroller at the same time and the combination (or permutation?) is unique to every other key. The wiring gets slightly more complicated if you want to press a specific three or more keys at the same time and thus you would need to add diodes, which in my drawings would be on the blue lines. I attached a much simpler matrix of the same keyboard but in a 5x14 layout instead of 8x8. Please excuse the jaggies as I did this on a computer that had no pen or touch input and I didn't feel like cleaning it up because I didn't think I would need it.
Yeah, that would work. I keep getting distracted because I haven't written anything down yet and I have it in my mind that I will have to connect 9 wires from the number pad to the main board so in my mind that means 9 pins. I'll still keep the 8x8 layout of the main board and just tack on 5 extra columns or rows that way I can still use the remaining four pins for leds.
Thanks. I probably would have wired it my way initially and then struggled with the layout for a few hours before finally realizing that I could simplify it a bit more. I shall revise my table and matrix wiring diagram later this evening and I'll probably post it in the next thread.
>I haven't written anything down yet
Other than my wiring diagrams and measurements for the case I ordered, of course.
>tack on 5 extra columns
And realistically, I can get away with only 3 extra columns since I already have 8 rows and there are 17 buttons.
Good luck on your endevours. If you do decide to build a keyboard though, it is significantly more expensive than buying a pre-built as the minimum cost for a custom laser cut mounting plate, a bunch of key switches, and a set of key caps alone is just shy of $200. It gets much cheaper if you scrap an old keyboard though (which is what I did).
>What you probably have in front of you, is a keyboard with more than 100 keys on it...
>mfw I have an hhkb in front of me
This is all very clear now.
I didn't know diodes let current travel one way only
>mfw I look at the tracker for my group buy order and it has been sent to the wrong country with a name similar to my own
I like my alps (own monterreys with blue stem) better than my cherrys (own brown, have used red, blue, and I think green) but that's just personal preference. I also have not tried all of cherry's switches nor have I tried all of alp's switches or their clones (monterreys, mattias, etc). I have zero choice for keycaps when it comes to alps, the build quality isn't as consistent when it comes to alps, and nearly all of the keyboards are old and used and do not come with features that I would want.
Is the WASD v2 any good? I've always considered it a POS generic brand keyboard, but I like that it lacks branding.
I'm in the market for a simple 80%.
pretty much every 80% keyboard looks identical to a filco majestouch TKL unless it's gamer garbage, and even then, the most popular gamer 80% board is a rebranded filco majestouch TKL with CM STORM written all over the case
Landing pad mod on the Topre doesn't make a big difference, it's the silicon ring mod that I'm referring to. It's why I said that the landing pad mod is the safer bet.
I have heard that about both, though. It seems to be a pretty torn subject between users. Some seem to notice no difference, while others feel an immediate difference and can't stand it. If it's simply the landing pad mod (the ironed foam ones), I completely agree with you, and think that the change is imperceptible. It's when you use the silicon that you start getting into rough waters. It shortens the key travel much more significantly depending on the amount of silicon used, but the feel is outstanding compared to foam, and it's much more consistent throughout the life of the keyboard.
The reason it makes the keys more "firm" is that you're pushing the key down to the point of it's near-peak pressure. When you press down on the switch, the key doesn't feel wobbly in the slightest (unless you're holding the key down while and wiggling your finger). It gives a bit of an illusory feeling that the key is on a solid rail or track.
>Also keyboard pleb
>Want a new keyboard
>Full layout, with a few macro keys and audio controls
>Cherry MX Brown
>Reliable, fairly hard-wearing, ideally in blue or silver/grey
Am I missing something?
Lads I need some help.
My absolute favorite switch is buckling springs, but I want a smaller keyboard. My Unicomp takes up a significant amount of space on my desk.
What switch is closest to the click and force needed for actuation of a buckling spring? Greens? I would just get a TKL buckling spring but they're outrageously expensive, and I'd like to go smaller than TKL.
Kind of looks like a skeleton with a "New Era" backwards cap and holding a banana phone to his ear. He also has a gray coloured bluetooth.
Not sure why he'd be using a bluetooth and a banana phone, but to each his own, I guess.
At least paypal doesn't keep sending things to the wrong address. I removed my old billing & shipping address entirely over 2 years ago after it messed up the first time (it didn't invoice to my primary address). After I completely removed my old address, since I had no use for it, it again invoiced another purchase to my old address. After contacting paypal and telling them to stop doing that, it did it again. After completely removing all of my bank and credit/debit card information, it did it AGAIN.
The most annoying part is that no matter how many times i tell the seller to use the address that I send them personally, more than 50% of the time they ship to my old address.
Just about ready to remake my paypal, but I'm not sure if that's possible without new credit/debit cards. They've assured me multiple times that they've fixed the problem, but it always seems to come back.
No, I don't have any bank info or cards still registered to my old address. Yes, I filed for an address change ~3 years ago.
The assholes new tenants at my old house never return my items, either. It's pretty god damned annoying.
Do they pretend they never received them or do they flat out say "yeah i'm not returning your shit".
Also, you sound pretty stupid.
If this shit happened to me, I would have made a new paypal account after the second fuckup.
I don't know many people that still do it, so you've got a point there. I still have it on a few of my very old Topre boards, and it's by-far my favorite method. I don't know if I'd go through the process of doing it again, though. I've pretty much accepted that I'll never swap keycaps on some of my older JIS realforce boards, but the feel is very unique, and it's a joy to use.
I can't say I dislike the soft landing pads. They're quite comfortable and have a much softer feel. The silicon mod make it feel more "factory-made" if that makes any sense, but they certainly don't feel like any normal Topre board.
They've never answered the door when I've knocked, but the postman says that he's unable to take the items back once they've been delivered, unless they state that they've received them and will return them. On top of that, the post office has also stated that they won't forward the items to me if they were addressed to my old address.
The problem is that it's such an intermittent problem with paypal. It's happened maybe 10 times over 2 years, but I've ordered at least ~25 items using paypal.
This issue just started happening again, and I really can't figure out why, but there was a good 6 months that went by without any problems. I ordered 3 items using paypal over January and each one was shipped to the wrong address. Thankfully the current postman knows that I don't live there anymore, I've confronted them at the local post office directly, so they return the items to the sender now, but then I end up waiting for the sender to receive the item, then waiting for confirmation that they've sent it to my correct address.
Ideally, I just don't use paypal, but I've needed it more and more over the last few months, and everything seemed to be solved until recently. Hell, I ordered a USB cable from 2 states over in early January. it was shipped to the old address within a week, then the seller had to wait a week to ship a new cable (not sure why), and then some snow-storm hit, so the post-office wasn't working (according to seller). I should be receiving this cable today, but who knows.
>Also, you sound pretty stupid.
Yeah, more or less. I should have created a new paypal a while ago, but I'd thought the issue was solved after as much contact as I've had with them. I'll definitely be doing whatever I can to create a new paypal, but like I said, I think I'd need to order new credit/debit cards, and I may need to use a different e-mail address, though I'm not completely sure.
just got my first mech, a cm storm quickfire rapid-i from amazon.
shipping was great, and all the keys and leds work, I even got the latest firmware update and it has these new cool lighting modes like being able to play snake with your keyboard leds and shit
but pic fucking related, WHAT THE FUCK is this shit?
like do they not do any QC at all?
what the fuck do i do now? the keyboard literally rocks back and forth when im typing, right now i have a folded piece of paper that im using to offset the defect, but i plan to bring this keyboard around and this is real fucking disappointing.
I tried pushing it back, but that shit is really glued into place and I would have to peel it off and glue it back again
And frankly, the USPS should be forwarding any mail that's sent to that place over to my current residence. They've had enough complaints/arguments over the phone and in person with me that I'm sure they're tired of it. Plus, the change-of-address form really should have solved this issue for me years ago.
Peel it off...Glue it back. Shit happens.
no you faggots this is clearly a product defect, i mean think about it, this shit is obvious from the moment you lay the keyboard down on a flat surface (keyboard rocks back and forth)
so why the fuck should i just accept it and do extra work with the potential to fuck it up?
it is because of faggots like you that these companies get away with this poor QC bullshit
>buy a gaymen keyboard, one of the cheapest backlit mechanical keyboards on the market
>whine that the glue isn't up to snuff
buy a good keyboard nex time
the QFR is a good keyboard but the design is subject to taste
I personally would not mind using a QFR with PBT keycaps for the rest of my life.
Not that QFRs last that long but Im just saying it is a decent keyboard
>so why the fuck should i just accept it and do extra work with the potential to fuck it up?
mmm yeah I agree. Such daunting task, So hard. I tink you shud return dat and not ret dem amazon asshores fuck you so hard. Dat keyboard probabry cost at reast hundred dorras. Why should u have to peel da sticka?
It's fine. $75 for a keyboard is stell well above average. But for mechanical keyboards it's lowest of the low.
Corners were cut, you should be happy that only the glue is defective.
so I really don't know much about MK , but I have giftcard at bestbuy and was thinking of getting that Razorchroma one. is that one any good or can someone suggest me something along those lines? I mainly wanted it so when I play FFXIV and league I get a better response.
Touch the keys on all their keyboards and buy the one you like the feel of the most. You won't really care for the lights and all that stuff in the long run unless you're actually an idiot that doesn't type.
N-no it's very good now hurry up and wast... err spend your money on a noppoo
>If your paying for your education you should be able to bring w/e you want.
>not you are or you're
I hope you are not paying that much for your "education"
is not that hard and you won't sound like an ignorante nigger making a lame mistake when blabbing shit about education and what not.
On a different note
>All praise the YODA
It's done so that you can use original Cherry keysets.
If you knew anything about the way QC is done you would know that not every product is checked 100%. They spot check batches and random items on the line. This is a Rubber foot applied to a keyboard in a factory that processes thousands of units, probably done by hand. It is to be expected that one or two will have a defect like this. You are the reason shipping costs are so high at a lot of companies. Sending a product back because of a non critical Very easy to fix piece. If it were a key switch or something like that I would say fuck yea send that back...
>is not that hard and you won't sound like an ignorante nigger making a lame mistake when blabbing shit about education and what not.
It's* not that hard(,) and you won't sound like an ignorant* nigger making a lame mistake when blabbing shit about education and whatnot*.
I'm much of a pedant when it comes to language, but when you call other people out, it's best to lead by example.
It's also worth mentioning that you don't seem to care much about sentence structure.